Keeping it Green Family Tradition Finding Focus
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Table of Contents Family Tradition
The Rudolph family has been a staple of local farming for years.
Ready to Ride
It’s as easy as riding a bike...
04 08
Summer Sizzle
12 14
Taking Aim
Ready to dust off the grill?
American Whitetail is changing the target game.
Keeping it Green
16 18
Bales & Bits
An Apple a Day
22 24
Finding Focus
Catfishing
26 30
Crappie Fishing
Spinning Love
34
A day in the life of the golf course groundskeeper.
Is throwing an apple core out of a car good for wildlife?
Everything you need to know about catfishing from shore.
Sonya Addington has turned her addiction into a labor of love.
Making mountains out of molehills.
Sight is one of the most important fundamentals of shooting.
A jig and bobber and a whole lot of crappie.
PUBLISHER Gary Neal | gwneal@aol.com MANAGING EDITOR Tim Young | tyoung@warricknews.com MAGAZINE EDITOR Emily May | emay@warricknews.com STAFF WRITER Jessica Squires | sports@warricknews.com SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS Tom Fuller Ken McBroom Chelsea Modglin Amanda Mosiman Brad Scales ADVERTISING Karen Hullett | kcraig@warricknews.com Debi Neal | business@warricknews.com In Gibson County: Kelli Nidley | kelli@pdclarion.com Michelle Schumacher | michelle@pdclarion.com Courtney Shuttle | courtney@pdclarion.com In Illinois Ann Foss | afoss@mtcarmelregister.com Sandra Higgins | skhpiglet@mtcarmelregister.com Joey Luecke | jluecke@mtcarmelregister.com Phil Summers | psummers@mtcarmelregister.com CIRCULATION Tammy Franz | circulation@warricknews.com
Warrick Publishing Co. 204 W. Locust Street Boonville, Indiana 47601 (812) 897-2330
A Tri-State Media Publication
ACCOUNTING Kristina Morris | kmorris@warricknews.com
4 Tri-State
Outdoors | Summer 2016
By Timothy W. Young
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
R
udolph Brothers is more than just a farm, lawn and garden equipment provider. They are a part of Boonville’s history. Nathan Rudolph and his father, Glen, are the current owners. Nathan Rudolph has taken the reins after his grandfather, Marion, and great uncle, Ray, started the business 82 years ago. Since its beginning, Rudolph Brothers — alongside Yankeetown Road — has remained a family business dedicated to helping customers with their farming and rural needs. The business’s longevity places it as one of Boonville’s oldest businesses. Rudolph Brothers started off as a dealer for Oliver equipment, before adding Massey Ferguson. Due to changes with Massey Ferguson’s parent company, Rudolph Brothers has now become a dealer for McCormick. “McCormick is an old name,” said Rudolph. “It literally started back with Cyrus McCormick building the reaper that we learned about in grade school. It goes back into the 1800s.” In addition, Rudolph Brothers also features Country Clipper, Great Plains, Land Pride and Unverferth equipment lines, as well as many others. The business also offers trucking needs. While some of the brands and offerings might look different, Rudolph said customers can still expect the same great personnel to help with any of their needs.
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6 Tri-State
Outdoors | Summer 2016
Photos courtesy of Timothy Young, Rudolph Brothers and Warrick Publishing.
“We serve rural community needs,” he said. “I believe what we offer here, more than anything, is the knowledge and the background that we can provide a satisfactory answer to any question. We use these products ourselves.” For Rudolph, providing a reliable product at a reasonable price which is backed with his staff’s knowledge and experience is what is most important to his company. Rudolph said the business might expand its operations into other markets in the future, but for right now they remain focused on providing the best services for the area. “Boonville has always been good to us,” he said. “We enjoy the people.” ----Timothy W. Young is the managing editor of The Standard. He can be reached at tyoung@warricknews.com.
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Rudolph Brothers 187 S. Yankeetown Road, Boonville Phone: (812) 897-1720 Fax: (812) 897-4109 http://rudolphbrosinc.com/ 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday
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sizzle
Outdoors | Summer 2016
Summer
By Catharine Kaufman
S
ummer is a fine season for grilling and chilling, and transferring the heavy-duty heat, smoke and mess outdoors. When I was growing up, Weber was king, and grilling styles and techniques were wild and reckless. My dad, the grilling meister, would douse the meats with charcoal lighter fluid as he did not bother to lift the steel grill to apply the toxic (and unappetizing) fluid directly on the coals. The food was not only as charred as the briquettes below, but had the distinct flavor of petroleum. His forearms were also nicely toasted, the hairs seared, too. Today there are new rules and tools. Here are some classic tips to knock your flip-flops off for safe, healthy and tasty barbecue entertaining throughout the glorious warm weather months.
Serenade with Marinade
Liquid-based marinades usually have acidic properties using wine, vinegar or citrus juices to tenderize assorted meats and dial up flavor. These are ideal for flat cuts from skirt and flank steaks to boneless chicken breasts and salmon fillets. In addition, marvelous marinades have been found to put the skids on the formation of carcinogens like notorious heterocyclic amines (HCAs) that form during grilling. So marinade up! Griller’s Tip: Whip up two separate batches – one for marinating raw foods, the other for dipping and basting cooked foods to prevent bacterial contamination.
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The Taming of the Flames When fat trickles into the coals, watch your eyebrows. These flare ups also create carcinogenic compounds that stick to food and give it a funky taste. To control flames, choose lean meats (sorry, no marbleized cuts) or trim the fat. And keep a water spray bottle on hand just in case. Of course, discard any burnt offerings, and partially cook thicker cuts, such as a tri-tip, then finish off on the grill. As well, don’t use barbecue, honey or other sauces until the end of cooking, as they tend to promote burning.
Knock on Wood The art of planking uses natural aromatic hardwood planks as cooking surfaces to infuse fish and fowl, meat and vegetables with a woodsy, smoky flavor while keeping them moist and tender. Mild alder and cedar woods pair well with delicate fish, seafood and vegan fare; more robust-flavored chicken or pork walk on the wild side with maple, apple and pecan planks; while beef and gamey meats are a good match with mighty oak and hickory woods. The plank also has to be properly prepped to prevent burning or charring of the wood. Submerged and soaked in a pan of water, (or for exotic taste buds wine, fruit juice or a savory broth) for an hour will do the trick. And if the wood is not burned, it can be reused. Just wash and scrub the surface, dry well, and store for your next BBQ shindig.
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Aye, there’s the Rub A dry rub as the name suggests blends dried herbs, spices, salt and sugar for a flavorful crust on various cuts of meat, fish and fowl, along with sealing in juices for a melt-in-your-mouth meal. The rub needs to be prepared to precise ratios — a higher salt proportion works best for beef, gamey
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Chimichurri Marinade 1/2 cup each of fresh flat Italian parsley and cilantro, minced 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced 3/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil Juice from 2 Meyer lemons 1/3 cup of red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon of red pepper flakes Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste In a mixing bowl, combine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and pepper flakes, and let sit for 5 minutes. Blend in parsley, cilantro, oregano and whisk in oil. Chill overnight in an airtight container. Stir before using.
meats and fish, while a higher sugar content is preferable for various cuts of pork. For the sweet part, use brown sugar to create a beautiful caramelized essence, while white cane sugar doesn’t burn as easily during grilling. Generally, dry rubs are recommended for chunky or large cuts of meat like briskets, and as a rule of thumb use two tablespoons of dry rub per pound of meat.
Temperature Rising Take your fish, fowl or meat’s temperature with a good quality meat thermometer to ensure it has been cooked thoroughly and is safe to eat. If a competent veterinarian can revive it, put it back on the grill. Beef, veal and lamb should reach at least 145 degrees Fahrenheit (medium rare), 155 degrees Fahrenheit (medium), or 160 degrees Fahrenheit (medium well); same temperature for pork, but give the latter a short nap, about three minutes before serving. Poultry is safe at 165 degrees Fahrenheit, while scaled fish should be cooked internally to 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Finally, bivalves like mussels and clams need to be grilled until their shells open sesame. Otherwise, discard.
A Basket Case Stainless steel or copper grill baskets are ideal for foods either too fragile or difficult to flip, or that might slip through the grill like fish, shrimps, fruit chunks or vegetables. Whip up a batch of this divine Argentinean chimichurri sauce, bursting with fresh flavors of summer for marinating and dipping. It’ll cut the mustard with all your favorite grilled fare. For additional grilling recipes email kitchenshrink@san.rr.com. ----Catharine Kaufman is a nationally syndicated food columnist, and dedicated chef to critical teen taste buds, and the most demanding palate, the big kid, her husband.
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Ready
to
ride By Brad Scales
W
hen you hear someone say, “It’s like riding a bike,” what does that mean to you? On one hand, I could understand your hesitance to push off and try to ride a bike for the first time. On the other, expert cyclists often make the most difficult maneuvers seem effortless. Just like everything else in the world, the meaning of the old saying is relative to each individual. According to the Urban Dictionary, the meaning is “something that, once learned, is difficult to forget.” The following is a guide to help beginners never forget what it means to be a safe and responsible cyclist. Before you start, you should identify why you want to ride a bike. There are many reasons why people ride, and it will save you some headaches by getting the right equipment. The best way to accomplish this is by visiting a local bike shop and allowing its experts to help you. With dozens of bike styles, from no-pedal kid bikes to geared beach cruisers, they can show you what bike and equipment you will need to get rolling. Go to the shop with an open mind and feel free to shop around to get other opinions on what to buy. Most importantly, be sure to check out the selection of helmets and other safety gear while you are there. Once you have your equipment, it is a good idea to get more acquainted with it. If you did not purchase your bike from a bike shop, I would suggest having a mechanic check your bike for proper adjustment. At the very least, make sure that all nuts and bolts are tight and the brakes are working well. Practice riding in an open area, preferably grass, where you are away from traffic and other distractions. Work on maintaining balance, looking ahead, and safe stopping. Before you hit the streets, there are many traffic safety skills you should also consider such as spatial awareness, riding predictably, using hand signals, and obeying traffic laws. You can practice these on your own or attend a local bike rodeo for some extra help. While building your experience, skills training can help your skills progress at a much faster rate. With advances in technology and
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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a growing cycling community, beginning cyclists now have resources readily available to help them improve their skills. These resources range from instructional videos on Youtube to hiring a professional instructor to host a private training session. Furthermore, women in the tri-state have a great option with local mountain bike racer and skills coach Tiffany Hutchens. Reservations can be made with her at hutch1208@gmail.com. In conclusion, cycling certainly has its risks, but the rewards are well worth the pain. Take the positive from it and focus on what you can do on a bike. Build on that and challenge yourself to get better every ride. So, the next time someone says “it’s like riding a bike,” you will be able to say “well, that must be easy.” ----Brad Scales is the owner Boonville Bike Club Inc. and Trail Boss LLC. He is also a member of the Evansville Mountain Bike Association.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
aim
Taking
By Laura Acchiardo
B
ack in 1984, Ralph Harris saw a hole in the archery industry. Harris, owner of American Whitetail Inc. in Ferdinand wanted to make a higher quality target using more modern materials. While most archery manufacturers were using straw for target production, Harris landed on open cell foam for his business. “I was involved in archery shooting and I knew there was a need for a new kind of archery target,� said Harris. “I came up with some ideas of how to take foam at that time, laminate it and make it into a target. And that’s what I did.� Before starting his business, Harris competed on the archery team at his high school and then spent several years in the archery department at Indian Industries, a sporting goods company in Evansville. With more than 30 years of experience in the archery field, he decided to go into business with himself, but not without help from his family.
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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Harris’s mother, Marge, played a large role in American Whitetail. Before passing in 2003, she spent a lot of time speaking with tournament archers about the company’s products and supplying customers from around the world, many of whom still receive targets from Whitetail. Harris’s brother, Kenny, has been with the business from the start and has been involved in all aspects of product sales. “I’ve been doing this for so long,” said Harris. “I don’t know what else I would do without my family or this business.” American Whitetail manufactures and sells a wide variety of archery targets from Olympic style to hunting. New products include the HybriMAT Torrent Nowear and the Speed Trap 400. The Torrent features a durable woven screen with a BallistiCORE center and a foam shell. In a smaller, portable size, it includes a repair port on the bottom for easy repair. The Speed Trap 400 works with both field point and broad head arrows, combining a HybriMAT NoWear target with a jacketed foam broad head target. “We started out building targets when we opened, and we’ve been doing it ever since,” said Harris. “We do really high quality work. We do things that are more cutting edge than other competitors in our field.” For more information about American Whitetail Inc., visit archerytargets.com or call 812-937-7185. ----Laura Acchiardo is a reporter at the Henderson Gleaner. She graduated from the University of Evansville in May 2015. She can be reached at lracch@gmail.com.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Keeping the green By Chelsea Modglin
T
hough golf may not be the most popular sport in America, it is the most popular sport with the wealthy, sophisticated and relaxed — or lazy, as some wives might prefer to say. The Scots created it in the 15th century, and in 1457 it was so popular that the Scottish parliament banned it because the loyal subjects were playing golf rather than practicing their archery. Today, professional golfers from around the world gather to compete in four major men’s championships or five major women’s championships, and, for the first time in 112 years, golf will be included in the 2016 Olympics in Rio de Janeiro. The unspoken hero in all of this is the faithful greenskeeper, or course manager. According to the National Golf Foundation, there were 14,289 open golf courses in the U.S. alone, and each one has a head course manager. Though their role is not so prestigious as others within a country club or golf course, it is the most essential. “Greenkeepers are... addicted to the philosophy of self-help,” F.W. Hawtree writes in ‘The Golf Course.’ “For 70 years they have helped themselves and their knowledge by lectures, discussions... They also started an apprenticeship scheme, which they ran themselves for 10 years before the Golf Development took it over and renamed it the Greenkeeper Training Committee.” Brad Housin has been the course manager of Windy Hill Golf Course in Greencastle, Ind., for two years. He’s also currently enrolled in the PGA 2.0 apprenticeship program, which requires both course and hands-on work and lasts for eight years. But other course managers, he said, simply work their way up with experience and dedication.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016 Hawtree goes on to say that the greenskeepers of the 1910s also founded the Turf Grass Symposium as another means of educating themselves and those interested in greenskeeping. Nowadays aspiring course managers can get a degree in turf management and science from institutions like Purdue University, where they will take courses in everything from “Introduction to Turfgrass Culture” to organic chemistry to applied calculus. That may sound like overkill, but there’s more to managing a golf course than make sure the turf has a certain consistency. As Hawtree said, “The greenkeeper, after all, may have charge of an investment worth half a million pounds which is subject to the vagaries of weather and golfers.” A good greenkeeper, Hawtree writes, will also attend the green committee monthly meeting to deliver a report, prepare an annual budget and keep players informed of general problems. In Housin’s case, running the golf course also requires working from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. to do everything from giving golf lessons to selling golf products. But no matter how tired he gets, he says it’s important he does his job well. “It’s important to keep people happy,” he said. “As long as people are happy they’ll keep coming back.” But the job isn’t without its rewards. “Perhaps because they have their feet literally on the ground,” Hawtree said, “greenkeeps have retained much more of the respect for [the game] which older golfers seemed to experience.” The next time you’re putting on the green, take a moment to admire the greenkeeper’s work. He or she is probably not the most glamorous individual, but they’re the key to running a good golf course. ----Chelsea Modglin is a freelance journalist for Tri-State Outdoors, Newburgh Magazine and the Evansville Courier & Press. Contact her at chelmodglin@hotmail.com.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
MOUNTAINS
mole hills
out of
By Amanda Mosiman
A
s evidenced by the mountain of client calls on my desk on mole control every spring, moles are the bane of any homeowner or landscaper. I wish I had a quick fix solution for mole control because I’d be both my dad’s favorite daughter and a very rich person if I did. Haha! Joking aside, this article outlines many mole control options available and which ones are the most effective. First, let’s take a closer look at mole damage. Two types of runways (tunnels) are produced by moles: surface runways and deep runways. Surface runways are commonly seen as the raised ridges running through lawn areas. Surface runs may be used daily, may be revisited at irregular intervals, or may be used only once and then abandoned. They connect with the deep runways, which are located between 3 and 12 inches below the surface. Deep runways are usually main runways, since they are used daily as the mole travels to and from surface runways or the nest. The soil excavated from the deep tunnels is deposited on the surface through short vertical tunnels in volcano-like mounds. When fence rows, concrete paths, or other man-made borders are within mole-active areas, the moles tend to construct their main runways along the edges of these artificial borders. It is also common for the main runways to follow a woody perimeter of a field or yard. Surface runways that are not used as main runways commonly branch off from these border runs towards the center of a field or yard. The number of mounds or surface ridges seen in a yard is no indication of how many moles may be present. Generally, one acre of land will support no more than two or three moles at one time. However, yards surrounded by or adjacent to large tracts of forested areas or fields may be subject to continual invasions by moles, because such areas may support many moles. Trapping: Trapping is the most reliable method of mole control. The key to success is patience, practice and persistence. Moles have an uncanny ability to detect and spring improperly set traps. So place traps carefully and keep trying until experience leads to success. Generally, trapping is easiest and most effective during the spring and fall, when mole activity is at a peak. Once mole activity is noticed, control efforts should begin as quickly as possible to keep damage to a minimum. Also, trapping in the early spring can eliminate pregnant females, thereby reducing the likelihood of having to contend with a family. For successful trapping, it is essential to locate the main runways. To identify main runways in a yard or area, look for runways which: 1. Follow more or less a straight course for some distance; 2. Appear to connect two mounds or two runway systems; or 3. Follow fence rows, woody perimeters, concrete paths or other man-made borders. Active surface main runways can also be determined by poking small holes with your finger into the runways at several locations throughout the system. Moles will repair these holes in their main runways within
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
a day or two. Runways not repaired over a longer period of time are not worth trapping. Also, because nests are commonly located at protected spots along the edge of areas, such as hedgerows or fence rows, border trapping at the places where runways enter the yard, field, or garden often provides good results. Use between three and five traps per acre for quick results. Grub control: It is often suggested that if you eliminate grubs from lawns you will eliminate the moles. But grubs make up only a small portion of the moles’ diet, which also includes earthworms and other soil animals. Thus, moles often are present in grub-free lawns. The loss of earthworms and other beneficial insects through repeated applications of insecticides will generate a heavy pesticide load and may cause more problems than the moles. Poison Gases and Baits: Attempting to kill moles with poisonous gases (fumigants) is largely ineffective. Fumigants require an air-tight system to produce the desired result. Since the gases produced are not capable of sufficiently penetrating throughout the moles extensive runway system, and/or will escape through the top of the surface runways, this method provides little or no control. In many cases, baits are ineffective because moles feed primarily on earthworms and other sub-soil insects. When using poison baits, the best results are usually obtained during the cold weather months when insect activity is at its lowest. Baits should be applied within the underground runways only, since baits exposed on the surface also pose a hazard to other animals, such as dogs, cats, wild birds and squirrels, which may consume them. Mole Barriers: When garden plots, seed beds, nurseries, or wellmanicured turf areas are surrounded by large tracts of woods or weedy fields containing large mole populations, the installation of a “mole barrier” should be considered. Mole barriers can be constructed from 3 foot widths of galvanized hardware cloth or aluminum sheathing. For best results, the barrier should be buried to a depth of 24 inches. However, if the soil is compacted and hard, a depth of 16 to 18 inches should suffice. Six inches of the barrier should be left exposed above the ground, and three inches of the barrier can be bent out at the bottom to discourage moles from digging under. Mole barriers offer long term protection, but on areas other than small plots, they may be impractical, unless the problem is persistent and the damage justifies the time and expense of installation. Ultrasonic and Other Electronic Devices: There are many ultrasonic and other vibration-producing devices in the market place and sold through various magazines that claim to repel moles, voles, gophers and other mammals from yard and garden areas. All such devices have absolutely no value in controlling pests. So, buyer beware. Home Remedies: Many “home remedy” approaches have been tried over the years to combat the mole. Various materials such as broken glass, razor blades, rose branches, bleach, moth balls, lye, smoke, wastefully filling tunnels water and even human hair have been tried. Frightening devices such as mole wheels, vibrating windmills, and whistling bottles have also been tried. In general, these home remedies have no value in mole control. Moreover, some can be hazardous to human health, companion animals, wildlife or detrimental to the environment. ----Amanda Bailey-Mosiman is the Extension Educator-Ag and Natural Resources for Purdue Extension of Warrick County. She can be reached at bailey1@purdue.edu or 812-897-6100.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
The
message
apple core of the
D
riving down the road, a passenger in a moving vehicle casually tosses an apple core out of his car window. This passenger thinks nothing of tossing out the mostly eaten food and might even feel a bit of self-congratulatory pride. “It’s biodegradable, no harm done. Something will probably eat the rest of it, anyway.” Because it is biodegradable, the apple core does not have the same obvious ill-effects of some other litter items, such as a glass bottle or a candy wrapper. A bottle could break and cause injury to wild animals that walk through the dangerous shards of glass. An animal could ingest part of a candy wrapper, thinking it is food and become ill. An apple core won’t physically injure an animal, like the broken glass bottle. It won’t cause an animal to become sick, like a plastic candy wrapper. In fact, some people think it might actually help a hungry animal who is searching for a meal. The apple core is equally as dangerous as any other type of litter because it will help a hungry animal find a meal – by the side of the road. Food items thrown from cars attract wild animals to the sides of roads, and roads are not a safe place for animals to be. Wild animals do not understand the concept of cars and they often will not or cannot get out of the way quickly enough when a moving vehicle is headed their way. Imagine an opossum, late at night, snacking on the discarded apple core, when a car turns the corner and hits the opossum. The driver never sees the nocturnal creature eating on the side of the road. Imagine a hawk, perched in a tree with her eyes locked on a squirrel nibbling on the apple core in the left lane. The hawk swoops down to snatch the squirrel and is struck by a car. Each year, the Virginia Wildlife Center admits hundreds of patients – just like the opossum or hawk – that are hit by cars. Often, these animals were searching for food along the roadside when they were struck by a vehicle. Food items and food or beverage containers should never be discarded on the side of the road. They will attract wild animals to a very dangerous place and put the animals at risk of being seriously injured or killed. Please remember that no litter is “safe” litter and share the message of the apple core. ----Content provided by the Wildlife Center of Virginia. For more information, visit wildlifecenter.org.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
finding By Tom Fuller
K
nowledge of marksmanship fundamentals contributes to an enjoyable and rewarding experience on the range. Continuing my discussion of marksmanship fundamentals, in this article I will explore the topics of sight and breathing. By far one of the most potentially confusing issues, sight requires some background investigation first. If you plan on always shooting with one eye closed, the sight fundamental only has two divisions: alignment and focus. If you practice defensive shooting and want to shoot with both eyes open, we must discuss the additional topic of eye dominance. No matter which way you shoot, the sight fundamental is one of the most important of the six fundamentals. Sight alignment is gathering the target, your front sight, and your rear sight all into a straight and even line. Looking through the rear sight notch, you should see the front blade sight in the center of the rear notch with an equal amount of light showing on both sides. You should have the top of your front sight centered on the target, level with the tops of the rear sight wings. If you have a three dot sight system on your pistol, all three dots will be equally spaced and in a straight and level line. Sight focus demands that your primary focus is on the front sight, while the rear sight and target remain out of focus. When approached purely from the realm of marksmanship for marksmanship’s sake and not considering a defensive use of the pistol, the front sight focus reigns supreme. By focusing on the front sight you will ensure the pistol’s alignment on the target during the course of trigger pull. After you shoot, your eyes must seek out the front sight for quick realignment of the pistol. Focus on the front sight as the
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016 tip of a spear to be constantly held and aligned between you and your target. If you want to shoot with both eyes open you’ll need to determine your eye dominance: understanding which one of your two eyes controls your hands for aligning your pistol to the target. Try this experiment: With both eyes open, hold your dominant hand out in front of you in a thumbs-up position and try covering up a distant object (target) with your thumb (front sight), such as a light switch across the room. If you focus on the front sight with both eyes open, you’ll get double “targets” in the background. If you focus on the target, you’ll get double front sights in the foreground. I’ll explain this phenomenon from the perspective of a right eye dominant, right handed shooter: 1. Focusing on the right hand thumb, the target on the “right” is correct. (The target on the left is seen with the left eye and your “front sight” is not aligned with it.) 2. Focusing on the target, the “front sight” on the left is correct. Of course, all this eye dominance business goes away when you close your non-dominant eye. If you happen to be cross-eye dominant, (e.g. right-eye dominant, but left- handed) you simply move the pistol so the sights are aligned with your dominant eye. The image shows the alignment of the shooter’s right eye, rear sight, and front sight, demonstrating both sight alignment and right-eye dominance. Breathing – we must do it to survive. Don’t hold your breath; just breathe naturally. If you increase your focus too much on the task at hand and forget to breathe, you muscles will tense up and your vision will degrade. Eventually you will begin shaking and losing focus. None of those contribute to marksmanship excellence. Just breathe. If you had to pick an ideal spot to finish your trigger pull, it would occur at the natural respiratory pause right before you begin to inhale. The body is very relaxed at this point and movement is minimal. This type of breath control is used to increase accuracy for longer distance shots. However, with the pistol and at closer pistol range, I encourage my students to simply breathe and not think too hard on this topic. When learning or practicing these fundamentals either at the range or at home, always remember the National Rifle Association’s three rules of Gun Safety: 1. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction. 2. Always keep the finger off the trigger until ready to shoot. 3. Always keep the gun unloaded until ready to use. Safety is your responsibility. ----Tom Fuller is a mechanical designer with PCI Skanska and an NRA certified pistol instructor and range safety officer. He is available for private and class instruction at Uncle Rudy’s Indoor Firing Range.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Casting from shore
By Ken McBroom
A
great way to enjoy great fishing on a budget is from the shore and catfish are the best target species for both fun and food. Bank fishing is also the perfect way to spend time with the kids and here are a couple bait options for bank fishing for catfish. Catfish are plentiful and delicious, making them a prime target for bank anglers that want to add some meat to the freezer and have a bunch of fun doing it. There are a couple reasons that catfish are a great choice from shore. First, there are a lot of them and they tend to occupy nearly every acre of a given body of water making it much easier to be successful in any given location. While locating bass or crappie habitat from shore is possible catfish tend to roam in search of food and rely heavily on their sense of smell to locate it from great distances making it possible to attract them to your location. This sense of smell is why catfish are the most sought after species for die hard bank anglers. Catfish are easy to catch and with the right baits you can greatly improve the numbers you are able to catch from your bank position. Here are a few great catfish baits for the budget minded bank angler.
Chicken Livers
Chicken livers have been the classic catfish bait for many years because it works. The only problem is keeping them on your hook. There is a trick to help keep your liver on your hook longer and even make it harder for those small catfish, I call them bait robbers, from taking your bait off your hook. There are many tricks out there for keeping chicken livers on your hook, including putting them in pantyhose or using a spring on a treble hook and others. Here is a simple, quick and very efficient way to keep your chicken livers on the hook so you can catch more catfish. Sewing thread is the answer to all your liver losing woes and the most efficient way, I have found, to keep livers on your hook. The one thing that makes this trick work better is fresh livers. There are stores that sell fresh chicken livers, so call around. Previously frozen livers will work, but fresh livers are much more solid
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and I think actually attract catfish better. Some say to let it sit in the sun until they turn green or just plain rot. Not only does this turn the youngsters off of the fishing but I feel that fresh livers actually work better. The sewing thread trick is nothing fancy and requires no knots. You just lay the tag end of a spool of thread on the liver and wrap. The thread sticks to the liver and allows you to wrap the thread around the liver and hook. Make sure you are careful with the first couple wraps so the thread stays put then make about eight or ten wraps and break the thread. That’s it your liver is nicely secured to your hook just. Cut Bait This is a great time to get the kids involved in catching your bait. It provides them with all day fun and you an endless supply of bait. They get to keep the bluegills in a bucket, instant entertainment and if you get too, many just start teaching them catch and release and explain to them about only keeping what we need. Great fun, great lessons and great memories. Fresh bluegill makes great bait for all species of catfish and while shad are usually the catfish’s primary prey, a bluegill is a delicacy and seems to really do well. When you think of cut-bait you normally think of the whole fish cut into chunks. This is the easiest way to prepare cutbait but it’s messy and I like to keep everything as clean as possible so I do a little extra work in preparing my
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Fishing fun for all ages
F
ishing can be hard for someone just starting — the choice in rods, reels, bait, lures and lines can be mind-boggling. Remember, when on fishing outings, keep it simple and keep it light. Light line with small, floats, weights, hooks and bait can help you put some excitement on the end of the line fast. Kids tire quickly and often give up while waiting for lunker bass to bite. Most kids would rather pull in 25 minnow-sized bluegill than wait for one trophy catch. Here are some tips to make fishing fun.
Start simple
A cane pole is a good way for new anglers or kids to start fishing. Spin-casting gear is a simple rod and reel for kids. The next step is ultra-light spinning gear.
Lighten your line
Line that is 4 to 8-pound test will do the job; “pound test” is the amount of force it takes to break the line. Unless you’re targeting monster catfish or muskies, light line is your best bet.
Bag the big bobbers
Bobbers (or floats) are used to suspend your bait in the water and to alert you when to set the hook. The harder the bobber is to pull under, the harder it will be to hook a fish. Small floats will help convince the fish to take your tasty bait and run. “Slip” bobbers work well for kids. Slip bobber rigs cut down on the amount of line needed at the end of the rod and are easier to cast. Small ice fishing bobbers can provide a light touch any time of year.
Small hooks equal big catches
Use hook sizes 6 to 10 (size 6 is larger than size 10). Fish won’t readily take large hooks unless they are feeding like crazy. A subtle presentation is often needed to catch wary fish. Tiny hooks also allow small fish to “inhale” the bait, rather than nibble the bait off the hook. If a fish swallows the hook and you want to return the fish to the water, simply cut the line as close to the hook as possible and release the fish. For a safer hook, smash down the barb with pliers or use barbless hooks.
Great big gobs of worms won’t do
There’s no need to use whole, whopping-big, writhing night crawlers on your hook. Live bait such as red worms, wax worms (bee moth larvae) or crickets work best. Keep the bait approximately the size of your hook, so the fish is less likely to steal your bait. You can also cut the bait to fit your hook. When you’re finished with the bait, give to another angler, bring home for the next trip, or throw it in the trash. Never dump your bait into the water. If you would like to learn how to teach fishing to the youth of your classroom or community and be able to borrow fishing equipment from the DNR for free, please visit Go FishIN online or contact gofishin@dnr.in.gov. ----Information courtesy of dnr.in.gov.
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bluegill cut-bait. First I scale my bluegill, a spoon works great, then I fillet the bluegill and discard the messy stuff leaving a nice tender fillet for bait. Leave the skin on your fillet so it stays on the hook and place them inside a plastic bag and on ice to keep them fresh. The skin also gives off a scent and is the reason I scale mine so the scent and oils can easily release into the water. You can get a couple pieces of bait per side from the larger bluegills just by cutting the fillet in half and cutting it lengthwise keeps the bait long enough to get the hook into twice which helps keep it on. These are just a couple bank fishing bait tips and a way to get young people involved in the outdoors. Remember they are the future of outdoor recreation and a vital part of keeping it alive and growing. You can see how much enjoyment kids have catching bluegills and know that just introducing them at a young age will at least keep that memory in their minds and how much fun it was. Catfishing is fun for kids too but usually they are so tuckered from catching bait that they are asleep by the time the evening catfish bite rolls around. If there is a die hard youngster still hanging around just let them reel in a nice channel cat, or something kids seem to like even more, netting a good fish for you. They will be hooked forever. ----Ken McBroom is a freelance writer and photographer based in Indiana. For more information visit www.ramblingangler.com.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
Jig & bobber By Ken McBroom
Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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W
hen crappie move into thick cover, one of the best ways to get them out is with a jig and bobber rig. Whether they are deep or shallow sometimes a jig produces better than live bait. The jig and bobber rig has been around for a long time, but I still get funny looks from some that haven’t heard of it before. It is deadly for sluggish crappie that tend to bury themselves into thick brush and don’t seem to want to eat. This technique can actually trigger a reaction strike and you can catch some crappie, even when live bait just doesn’t interest them.
The Rig The jig and bobber rig is just as it sounds. A jig placed on your line beneath the bobber. This rig allows you to focus your presentation deep into the brush pile if it is visible or just above it if you can’t by using your electronics and a slip bobber. In shallow water you can easily drop the jig into small holes in the thick brush allowing the jig to get in there where the crappie is hiding. Once in there a slight twitch of the bobber will really give that jig a lot of action and it drives crappie crazy. I think it’s not only the erratic action that jigs have but also the color that plays a big role in getting a reaction bite. You can see the rig in the image and it is as simple as it looks, but it can do many things to help you catch a limit of crappie from heavy cover. Normally the jig is set only one to two feet from the bobber. When the crappie is moving up they are usually in water this shallow, but even if they are four to six feet deep they will come up and get it as long as the color and size is right which is very important. The size of the jig can usually be determined by two things. Water temp and size of crappie your lake produces. As for color it has been my experience that a certain color seems to just work better on certain lakes. You probably already know what color works best in your home waters and if not, just experiment with many different colors until you find that magic combination. On one of the lakes I fish, red flake body with chartreuse tail is the ticket. Sometimes it is a tube and sometimes it’s a curly tail. It all depends on what the crappie wants that day. Usually the tube works best when the fish are a bit sluggish after a cold front while the curly tail grub works best when the fish are active. When the crappie are holding in deep cover you can use a slip bobber to hover your jig just above the brush. Reading your electronics allows you to easily adjust your slip bobber to a depth that is within a foot or less above the crappie holding in that cover. You can stay over the brush, keeping it visible on your electronics and just let the jig down to it. You can twitch your bobber there while watching your jig on the graph and sometimes even see the crappie come up to bite it.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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The Tackle The jig and bobber rig is best tied on spinning tackle, but another great way to fish it, when in shallow and visible brush, is with a cane pole, which I will explain later. While crappie aren’t normally all that line shy, I believe light line does help you get more bites. I like a 7 foot spinning rod and a spinning reel spooled with 6 pound test line when I am dropping my jig into the brush. This may seem a little light but it just seems that the lighter line gets more bites. If I am hooking some really good crappie I will go to 8 pound test, but never any heavier than that. I will go down to a 6 foot rod if I am hovering over brush piles so I can keep my jig and bobber close to the boat which allows me to see my jig better on my electronics. The cane pole is another option and one that I really like to use when fishing shallow, clear water and the fish are spread out. A 10 foot or 12 foot cane pole allows you to drop your jig into little pockets and holes in the brush very efficiently and with a little practice you will be surprised how quickly you can move through a brush pile and onto the next. The length also allows you to stay back a little and silently lay your presentation where it needs to be.
Best Time to use the Bobber Jig Rig This technique is very effective for springtime crappie and can help you catch crappie that other anglers may not have even tried for. Presenting your jig from a distance is key when the crappie are shallow. The bobber allows you to present your jig vertically and keep it there indefinitely allowing for a slower presentation. Pulling the jig from one hole in the brush to another takes some practice but can be mastered in no time. Another great thing about this rig is that you can use a very light jig head. The weight of the bobber allows you to cast or pitch from a distance and the selection of bobbers on the market today can definitely help adjust for some very long cast or a precise pitch. The lighter jighead makes it easier to pull from one hole to another as it will lift in the water much easier as you pull the bobber toward you. Be sure to drop the jig in the hole followed by the bobber. Springtime crappie fishing is a popular pastime in the midwest and the lakes can become fairly crowded with anglers probing the very brush piles you plan to fish. Bobber jigging can be your ace in the hole and will help you pull crappie from seemingly impenetrable brush pile that has been fished several times before you even get there. Be patient and learn this technique this spring. You won’t be disappointed. ----Ken McBroom is a freelance writer and photographer based in Indiana. For more information visit www.ramblingangler. com.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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S
onya Addington would love to be able to say she learned fiber arts when she lived in Venezuela. In reality, she’s kicking herself for letting that opportunity slip through her fingers. Sonya opened City Stitch Yarn Shop just off the Boonville Square in October 2014. It was the culmination of a love affair with fiber going back to her youth — kind of. Living in Key West, Fla., Sonya’s mother, Judy Lutz, said she was in awe of the colors. She would make clothing from the special cloth they made in the area. When they moved to Venezuela, she wasn’t able to find what she was looking for. “From the time she was little, I’m talking 3 or 4 years old little, she’s painted,” Judy said. “I have paintings at home that she’s done. We lived in Key West and she was just in awe of everything, of all the colors. Down there, they make their own fabrics. When we lived in Venezuela, she couldn’t get the fabrics she wanted, so she took bedsheets and dyed them the colors she wanted and made clothes out of bed sheets. She’s been doing it her whole life. It’s not me because I’m not talented in that way.” Sonya said she remembers seeing the fiber arts all around, but her teenage disposition kept her from taking it all in. “I remember the lady spinning and the llamas and the sheep being at the markets and it just didn’t really catch my attention, which was a wasted opportunity,” she said. “It really was. But when I got into it, I was thinking, ‘Oh my goodness! If I’d only paid attention.’ I would have had such a head start in the fiber arts.” Eventually, she got into it. Her love for crocheting led her to spinning her own yarn, which eventually led her to her own yarn line and her own store. Her fiber room — which is basically a room full of raw fiber waiting to be spun into yarn — is the only one of its kind in the area. “There is a saying, ‘Sheep to shawl.’ It’s the process of the wool coming from the sheep, being processed into material for you to make to spin the wool and then knit it to a sweater or to a shawl or whatever is necessary,” Sonya said. “Even back in the Viking days, they didn’t just wear the hard armor. Somebody had to knit a suit under that hard armor.” The move to more hands-on projects — starting with an animal and ending with a garment or other useful item — is one that has been picking up speed quickly. Sonya said she has seen many people come in to do projects just to prove to their children to be more resourceful. “It’s a post-apocalyptic skill,” she said. “I read there was a lady saying, ‘Which e-spinner should I get?’ The majority of the comments were, ‘Why would you invest in something you would have to be an outlet away from what you’re doing? You can’t take it camping, you can’t take it anywhere. Why don’t you appreciate the manuel-ness of the spinning wheel? It’s low-maintenance.’
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They were really giving it to her. There’s also a Danish saying, ‘The spinner need not be naked.’” Sonya said she had watched the building sit vacant for a decade. She had even drawn up her floor plan exactly how she wanted it. “It’s nothing like how I wanted it,” she said. “My husband said, ‘This is how it’s going to be.’ Which is good, because I wasn’t even planning on a bathroom and a kitchen, and that’s just been huge for me to be able to dye yarn.” The inside of the store is reminiscent of New Orleans. It has exposed brick on the adjoining wall. The metal ceiling came from an old barn, which was taken down on a 105-degree day. That has become a “home away from home,” as Judy puts it, for Sonya’s regular customers. The life of the business is going to come down to more people walking through the doors of City Stitch Yarn Shop, though. “I think mostly the biggest focus for me right now is people not driving by and going to Evansville to the bigger chains,” she said. “Support the local stores all around the square, and even outside the square. Our money goes to the utilities. It goes right back into the community, instead of someplace else to improve someplace else. Our money goes right back into the community to improve the community.” Linda Evans of Chandler, one of the regular customers at City Stitch, called the store her “happy place” and said she enjoys the creative juices that are constantly flowing throughout the store. “She listens to people when they talk to her,” Linda said. “If you tell her you like something, chances are you’re going to see it here because she listens. So darn few places do that anymore.” In addition to just selling fiber, yarn and various needles, hooks and other supplies, Sonya also offers classes in knitting, crochet, spinning and felting. A schedule is available at www.facebook. com/citystitchyarnshop. “For me, other than having the shop, it’s your therapy, it’s your satisfaction, what you do,” she said. “It’s the color, it’s the appreJohn & Kristi Horton ciation.” Broker Associates ----info@hortonteam.com Emily May is the editor of Tri-State Outdoors and Newburgh (800) at 317-9879 Fax magazines. She can be reached emay@warricknews.com or 812-897-2330.
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Tri-State Outdoors | Summer 2016
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