Exploring Outer Hebrides by trish smith

Saturday, July 2, 2022

id you know that Gaelic is the first language of the Outer Hebrides? Today the islands are the main stronghold of this lyrical language in Scotland, and one of the few places you’ll hear it spoken as you travel around – whether in a shop, in church, in a café or on the ferry. Dating back centuries, Gaelic is one of the oldest languages in Europe and is more than a thousand years older than English. Scotland’s Gaelic language, culture and music share a close connection with Ireland, much closer than with the UK mainland. Settlers from Ireland brought the language across the water 1,500 years ago and Columba brought the Christian message from Ireland to Scotland in Gaelic. However, the languages were only distinguished in the 19th Century. Until then Scots Gaelic was referred to as Irish (or “Else”) and the Hebrides used to be mapped as “The Irish Islands”. For much of its history the sea was the key highway linking the Hebrides not just with Ireland but the wider world.

Waves of emigration and the Hebridean seafaring tradition took Gaels and Gaelic across the world to create a network of Gaelic connections. At least 60% of the population of Glasgow are of Scottish Gaelic descent and in 1850, almost 10% of Canada’s population were Gaelic speakers. Centuries of state hostility meant Gaelic had no place in public life until the end of the 20th Century but, today Gaelic is experiencing a great resurgence in the arts, music, media and education. The Outer Hebrides are central to this revival. They are the last place in Britain where Gaelic is still spoken on a daily basis by the majority of the population. A little awareness of the Gaelic language, culture and traditions will give you a deeper understanding of life on these beautiful islands. And, the best way to start is by visiting us and experiencing it for yourself. Gaelic vocabulary, pronunciations and spellings can be localised and vary across

Uisge, Uisge everywhere

Experience an islands ceilidh

Discover the history of crofting

Beinn one with nature

8-9

Islands awash with history

10-11 Find your PLACE on the

Outer Hebrides ■ Cover: Arnish Point Lighthouse, Stornoway

the islands, which means your journey of Gaelic discovery will evolve as you travel around. Soak up the traditional Hebridean welcome, explore spectacular landscapes and immerse yourself in a new spirited and unique culture on Scotland’s Gaelic islands.

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS ■

Involved in the Outer Hebrides tourism industry? Believe tourism should be sustainable and responsible? Want to do the best for your business? If the answer is yes, then join Outer Hebrides Tourism and help us develop responsible and sustainable tourism on our islands. We are a LOCAL community interest organisation giving voice to the island’s tourism industry, with over 400 members already on board representing accommodation, Food & Drink, Art & Crafts, attractions, communities, tours & activities. For every £1 our members invest, we generate £2 in development and promotion projects that support the islands. Join us and help us grow that impact responsibly whilst helping your business go from strength to strength.

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(from £75 per year)

A listing on www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk - the main visitor website for the Outer Hebrides with 2 million+ hits per year. Access to industry insight, information and advice (statutory changes, funding, networking, green tourism, sectoral developments etc…)

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A voice to inﬂuence your future (Ferries, Short Term Lets licencing, Stafﬁng, Net Zero etc.)

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Promotional activities such as press, trips, videos & campaigns

EXAMPLES OF RECENT ACTIVITY INCLUDES: ■

Eat Drink Hebrides Trail leaﬂet and e-book (coming soon!)

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Motorhome Leaﬂet to promote positive campervan behaviour

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P.L.A.C.E. responsible tourism campaign

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Gaelic Campaign

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Wellbeing Trail (in development) For more information, or to sign up for membership go to our website www.outerhebridestourism.org or contact: eileen@outerhebridestourism.org

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Uisge, uisge everywhere

ou may recognise the Gaelic for water from Uisge-beatha, or whisky, as you’ll know it, which means “the water of life” Water is everywhere in the Outer Hebrides. From the seas that surround us, providing world-class fish and seafood that sustains our communities, to the purest lochs, streams and rivers that feed our distilleries. Distilling on the islands has been going for hundreds of years, but it’s only recently that legal distilleries have opened on the islands – producing gin as well as whisky. The islands are also bursting with top quality ingredients. From island-reared lamb and beef to natural botanicals and seaweed; we have everything we need right here to produce the highest quality food and drink. Locals have produced their own food

■ The Outer Hebrides is renowned for the quality of its distilleries and of course locally-caught seafood which is exported across the world

and drink since the islands were first settled, and this custom remains strong today. The traditional crofting way of life has developed a unique range of produce from black pudding to smoked fish. More modern provisions have broadened the range from condiments to confectionery. Here are some top food and drink experiences you should try: • Distilleries – visit some of Scotland’s best distilleries and learn about the long and fascinating history of distilling on the islands. • Smokehouses – taste some of the finest smoked salmon in the world and discover the famous Stornoway kipper.

• Stornoway black pudding – it’s so good it boasts Protected Geographical Indicator (PGI) status and is world-renowned for being of the highest quality. • Seafood – savour world-class lobster, crab, langoustine and scallops. With daily landings, you can’t get any fresher. • Bakeries – visit artisan bakeries using timehonoured methods and traditional recipes. Look out for delicious oatcakes, seaweed biscuits, shortbread and cakes. Eat Drink Hebrides Trail – this trail that runs the length of the islands helping you discover the best local produce, restaurants and cafes.

Award-winning biscuits for cheese from Stornoway www.stagbakeries.co.uk

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Experience an islands ceilidh

familiar word that has found its way into the English language, but in the islands “ceilidh” has a slightly different meaning. You may have memories of formal dances at school, or perhaps a wedding ceilidh. But you’ll discover that in the Outer Hebrides it’s a far more informal occasion. Here we’d ask you to “Thig a cheilidh”. It means, “come and visit”; and it’s simply a gathering of people usually for a “house ceilidh” at home or in the local bar. It’s a chance to catch up and share stories, poems or songs with family, friends and neighbours. It’s where we pass down traditions and tales from generation to generation. Like most family

yarns, they are rarely written down, but retold endlessly from memory, with the best stories often being requested. Storytelling in music and poetry is so important, Gaels would say – “Is fhearr na’n t-òr sguel air inns’ air chòir” – “Better than gold, is a tale well told”. As well as poetry, music has a special place in island traditions. You’ll hear traditional music still being played in many homes, and the islands are full of talented musicians. As well as traditional songs, the islands are home to many talented contemporary musicians from Runrig to Julie Fowlis, The Vatersay Boys, Skippinish and Hò-Rò who all have island connections. The latest band to take the islands by storm, with a growing reputation further afield, are Peat & Diesel. TOP EXPERIENCES An Lanntair – Visit this multi-arts venue and discover a hub of creativity. Ceòlas – Learn about the traditional music, dance, language, culture and heritage of our islands. Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre – With regular exhibitions to browse as well as live music events, classes and events to enjoy.

Scottish candles and home fragrance, inspired by our island home.

www.essenceofharris.co.uk info@essenceofharris.com 01859 502 768 Essence of Harris, Sunnyhill, Isle of Harris, HS3 3DB @essenceofharris ■ The Aileach, a replica of a historical galley outside Kildonan Museum, South Uist

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Discover the history of crofting and its unique products

he tradition of crofting is unique to the Scottish Highlands and is especially strong in the Outer Hebrides. It emerged in the 19th Century as a reaction to absentee landowners and the horrors of the clearances, and gave people legal rights as tenants that were passed down through generations. You’ll see it all around you on the islands. From the visible ‘lazybeds’ that shape the landscape to the local sheep and cattle you’ll meet all over the landscape. It’s based on relatively small agricultural land holdings that positively contribute to the sustainability of rural communities by creating

■ Harris Tweed: A mark of quality for hand-woven cloth

a close-knit communal spirit among crofters. Each village has “common grazings” where everyone’s animals graze alongside each other and provide a focus for traditional gatherings such as village sheep sorting (or a “Faing” in Gaelic) and the summer agricultural shows. Peat cutting still provides vital fuel for many islanders and the calendar of cutting, drying and gathering the peat before winter sets in still defines the rhythm of the year in rural parts. Crofting is closely connected to one of the islands’ main exports, Harris Tweed – uniquely produced in commercial quantities but by truly traditional methods and governed by its own Act of Parliament – The Harris Tweed Act, 1993.

RESTAURANT OPEN INTERACTIVE DINING EXPERIENCE Chris will take you on a culinary journey as he lovingly describes how he has sourced, grown, prepared, cooked and presented each dish WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY EVENINGS - BOOKINGS ONLY OUR CHOCOLATE SHOP IS OPEN Mon - Fri 10am-4pm & Saturdays 11am-3pm Find us at: Studio 2, Talla Na Mara, Pairc Niseaboist, Isle of Harris,

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Harris Tweed must be hand-woven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides using wool spun and dyed on the islands and finished in the Outer Hebrides.

TOP EXPERIENCES Gearrannan Blackhouse Village – step back in time to experience traditional island life. Smell the peat smoke of the fire, peek inside cosy box-beds, see the byre once home to cattle, and imagine living in a crofting township during the last century. Croft experiences at Long Island Retreats or Alapcan – get to know more about crofting life.

Maorach An Eilein

ISLANDER SHELLFISH Cromwell Street Quay, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis Tel: 01851 706 772 islandershellﬁsh@yahoo.co.uk

Fresh Quality Seafood Fresh Local Fish Hot Smoked Salmon Salmon Pate Cooked Prawns Cooked Crabmeat Haddock-Adog Cod-Trosg Salmon-Bradan Whiting-Cuiteag Shellﬁsh-Maorach Tuesday to Friday 8am to 4pm Saturdays 8am to 1pm

• All-year-round online Scottish Gaelic courses from beginner to advanced level, taught by a qualified teacher. • Scottish Gaelic Grammar courses in self-study format • North Uist Immersion Events and on-demand classes for island visitors

www.lovegaelic.com info@lovegaidhlig.com Photo: Isobel Thompson

• Scottish Gaelic Course Books, calendar, notebooks, planners • Love Gaelic Tartan clothing and products

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Beinn one with nature

he islands are home to one of Europe’s premier natural environments, and each island has its own unique landscape to explore. From the impressive mountains and lunar landscapes, you’ll find in Harris, to the labyrinth of lochans in North Uist, the 20 miles of Machair in South Uist, and the vast beaches of Barra, the islands offer breathtaking scenery, firstclass outdoor activities and remarkable wildlife, including otters, orcas, eagles and Eriskay ponies. You may recognise the word “Beinn”, one of many Gaelic words for hill, which has been adopted in English as “Ben”, the word for a Scottish mountain. But there are hundreds

of Gaelic words that provide a rich lexicon to describe the island landscapes and natural environments. A “sgùrr” (jagged peak), a “stùc” (pinnacle) and a “stob” (a stake) all describe pointed hills. A rounded mound or outcrop could be a “meal”, a “cnoc”, or a “cnap”. And, if the hill has a fort on top, it will more than likely be a “dùn”. The names also give you clues about the colour, position or shape. White or pale hills can be “bàn”, “fionn” or “geal” whereas dark hills tend to be “dubh”. “Mòr” means great and “beag” is small. You can see why Gaelic is often referred to as the language of the hills. TOP EXPERIENCES Mangersta Bothy and Uisinis – Enjoy the solace and natural beauty of the Outer Hebrides and stay in a traditional mountain bothy. The Hebridean Way – Discover some of the most spectacular landscapes in the UK and enjoy an epic adventure! Wildlife Boat Trip – Boasting some of the finest wildlife in the world, the islands offer the ultimate wildlife watching experience and a boat cruise is a great way to explore.

■ Mangersta Bothy, Uig, Isle of Lewis

W.J. MacDonald Family Butcher since 1931

Harris Tweed can only be handwoven at the weaver’s home in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. Harris Tweed is the only fabric in the world that is governed by it’s own act of Parliament and the only fabric produced in commercial quantities by truly traditional methods. Double width Harris Tweed (150cm wide) is available from as little as a quarter of a metre (25 x 150cm), suitable for clothing, soft furnishings, upholstery, craft work projects etc.

We have a wide range of Tweed from ladies and gents clothing, Harris Tweed bags made from genuine leather and matching accessories.

Caberfeidh, Tarbert, Isle of Harris, HS3 3DJ Tel: (0) 1859 502040 or 502505 www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk • info@harristweedisleofharris.co.uk

One of the oldest established family run businesses in the Western Isles. Stornoway Black Pudding means the only one thing: W.J. MacDonald Family Butcher. We have been making our world famous black pudding here in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland for over 85 years.

5 Francis Street, Stornoway Tel: 01851 702077

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Islands awash with a heady mixture of history and heritage

he Outer Hebrides only became part of Scotland in 1266 as part of the Treaty of Perth. For the previous 400 years they had been ruled over by “Righ nan Eilean” the “King of the Isles” a dynasty of mysterious warrior kings, such as the heroic Somerled (Somhairle), who blended Norse and Gaelic lineage, but owed their allegiance to the Norwegian crown rather than Scotland. You can see their legacy in the many Norse place-names across the islands, and occasional treasured objects – the best known being the Lewis Chessmen (Fir Tàilisg), carved from walrus ivory in the mid12th century.

These fiercely independent oligarchs were regarded as the greatest landowners and most powerful lords in Britain after the Kings of Scotland and England, and even after the islands officially became part of Scotland, they jealously guarded their autonomy for hundreds of years. This spirit of independence and selfreliance has endured among islanders to this day. The Kings of the Isles are the forefathers of the islands’ clan systems. Several of the main clans trace their history back to island Kings. Gradually a dominant clan emerged in each part of the Outer Hebrides, mostly with a reputation for rebellion and

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■ Lewis Chessmen at the British Museum, London

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Saturday, July 2, 2022

■ Kisimul Castle, Barra

Catholicism when it was all but eradicated on the mainland. In Barra it was Clan MacNeil that rose to prominence in the 11th century on the

back of a fearsome reputation for excellent seamanship. They sailed the fastest birlinn (galleons) and carried out fierce raids on their neighbours.

They built their stronghold – Kisimul Castle – on an island in the middle of Barra’s best harbour. The only significant medieval castle to survive in all of the Outer Hebrides,

At Hebridean Hopscotch, our local holiday advisors create made to measure Island Hopping Holidays, doing all the hard work so that you can relax and enjoy the peace and tranquility of the Outer Hebrides. Explore the entire Outer Hebrides from the Isle of Lewis to the Isle of Barra

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Saturday, July 2, 2022

Find your PLACE on the Outer Hebrides

ith lots of things to explore and discover, everyone should have the chance to experience everything the Outer Hebrides has to offer. But there needs to be a balance between enjoying the best of the islands and holidaying in harmony with the local environment and our communities. What’s needed from visitors to the islands is a “pride of PLACE”. The Outer Hebrides Tourism Community Interest Company has put together a PLACE visitor code:

P FOR PARKING Our islands have lots of single-track roads, there are lots of passing places for traffic to get by. • Please don’t park in them • Same goes for verges and in front of people’s gates and on the our machair (coastal grassland beside the beach) which is a rare and fragile habitat

• Just leave your car in designated areas when you go explore this extraordinary setting

L FOR LITTER

• Leave no trace • Bin it or take it home • Reduce, reuse and recycle

A FOR ANIMALS

• Always keep your dog on a lead and pick up after them. Keep them away from livestock (especially at lambing time) • Be aware of livestock and leave gates as you found them • Keep your distance from wildlife and watch them do their thing

C FOR CAMPERS

• Please stay in organised campsites or designated overnight parking spots as it helps campsites be sustainable, protects our environment and respects community wishes

■ Seilebost on the Isle of Harris

• Do pre-book pitches with plenty of notice (where possible) • Get rid of toilet waste in chemical disposal sites • Don’t park on verges and in front of people’s gates and on the our machair (coastal grassland beside the beach) which is a rare and fragile habitat

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Tracing family history for the Outer Hebrides e: seallam@hebridespeople.com call:

Bùth Bharraigh Ltd, Castlebay, Isle of Barra HS9 5XD +44 (0) 1871 817 948 info@buthbharraigh.co.uk

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HARBOUR VIEW GALLERY The working studio and gallery of Anthony J Barber Port of Ness Isle of Lewis HS2 0XA www.abarber.co.uk Tel: 01851 810735

If you have to wild camp in a tent try to stay in organised campsites as much as you can: • Only stay in a single place for a single night before moving on • Don’t camp next to your car, or in view of houses or beside the road • Do bring a trowel and bury all solid toilet waste at least 30 metres from waterways.

• Leave no trace. That includes litter and fire debris. And remember to take your tent home

E FOR ENGAGEMENT • Before arriving, familiarise yourself with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code • Show respect to our islanders and our way of life and please support our wonderful local businesses, from supermarkets to

petrol stations from coffee shops to fresh seafood takeaways, as well as stunning arts, crafts, and a cheeky gin distillery or two • Adopt island time, just not on the roads (let traffic pass!) • Remember you are on holiday Tapadh leat (Thank you).

Gateway to the Outer Hebrides The Primary Port for the Outer Hebrides and a strategically located port on the West Coast of Scotland.

Hebridean Jewellery manufacturing jewellers Est 1974 producing inspired pieces in gold and silver. The jewellery is hand crafted in our workshop in the township of Iochdar by the silver sands off the North West coast of Scotland on the Isle of South Uist. Design inﬂuences are from the work of the ancient Piets and Celts through to the present environment.

Hebridean Jewellery, Iochdar, South Uist HS8 5QX Tel: 01870 610288 Email: info@hebrideanjewellery.co.uk Also at Stornoway, Portree and independent stockists