Make Your Own ...
New Year’s Eve
Feast BY STEVE BARNES | PHOTOS BY JOHN CARL D’ANNIBALE AND LORI VAN BUREN
ew Year’s Eve is one of the busiest nights of the year for restaurants, about equal with Valentine’s Day and surpassed only by Mother’s Day as an occasion for dining out with family and friends. But even though eateries are packed with revelers spending big on indulgent meals, research shows that nearly two-thirds of Americans stay home on Dec. 31, about four times more than those who dine out. With that in mind, we asked six Capital Region restaurant chefs — who most certainly will be working on the last night of this year — to help us put together the Ultimate AtHome New Year’s Eve Feast. Although they submitted their recipes independently, without restrictions on ingredients or how complicated the recipes could be, the resulting meal is one that could be managed by a couple of home cooks working together, and they’d still have time to sit down with their guests. The courses range from the simple rusticity of butternut-squash bisque to the elegance of cod with lobster and truffle to a playful dessert — a version of tiramisu made with Twinkies, conceived by a chef to honor her late father. With each recipe we’ve included the chef’s reason for recommending it for your Ultimate AtHome New Year’s Eve Feast.
42 518 LIFE
Photo: Jamie Grill/GettyImages.
N
Courtney Withey Executive Chef Mazzone Hospitality, Scotia
The heat from the sausage and the earthiness from the fennel and Pernod create a rich broth, and the brininess and acidic notes in the aioli on the toast are meant to cut through that richness.
These are the flavors I crave on a cold winter’s night. The family-style nature of this course brings out the essence of what I always try to achieve when I’m planning a meal for the ones I love.
44 518 LIFE
Photos by Lori Van Buren.
Why I chose this…
Littleneck Clams with Fennel Sausage, Tomato-Fennel Broth, Grilled Rustic Toast and Green-Olive Aioli Ingredients
Method
30 littleneck clams, scrubbed 4 cloves garlic, minced 10 fennel seeds 1½ cups of your favorite loose fennel sausage, hot or sweet (I prefer hot) 2½ cups canned whole, peeled plum tomatoes, liquid drained, roughly chopped 1 cup white wine 2 ounces Pernod or 1 ounce Sambuca 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 loaf rustic bread from your favorite bakery, cut into thick slices 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons cold butter ¾ cup mayonnaise 3 ounces of your favorite green olive, pitted 1 lemon
1. In a large pot add 1 tablespoon butter, 1½ tablespoons olive oil, minced garlic (reserving 1 teaspoon for later use) and fennel seed over medium heat. Cook garlic until golden brown. Add loose sausage and turn heat down to medium low. Sauté until sausage is cooked through. 2. Return heat to medium, add tomatoes, and simmer for 2 minutes. Add clams, Pernod or Sambuca, white wine and cover. Simmer for 6 to 9 minutes, or until the clams have popped open. 3. Add 2 more tablespoons cold butter, flat-leaf parsley and juice of half a lemon. Adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper. 4. Meanwhile, chop the pitted green olives and combine with
mayonnaise, season with 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 1 teaspoon chopped garlic and salt to taste. 5. Drizzle the sliced bread generously with extra-virgin olive oil and, using a hot grill pan, grill both sides until bread is slightly crisp and marked but still a bit soft on the inside. (If you do not have a grill pan, feel free to quickly bake in the oven.) 6. Slather each of the six slices of grilled or baked toast with the olive aioli. Pour the clams and the broth into a large serving bowl. 7. Everyone gets their own slice of bread for dipping and their own bowl to discard their clamshells, but I prefer this dish served family style.
Michael Pallozzi Executive Chef Carney’s Tavern, Ballston Lake
Photos by John Carl D’Annibale.
Why I chose this… It’s one of my favorite soups of all time, especially in
Butternut Squash Bisque Ingredients 4 pounds butternut squash 5 peeled carrots ¼ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup brandy Salt and pepper, to taste ½ cup real maple syrup 1 teaspoon allspice 1 tablespoon cinnamon 1½ teaspoons fresh-ground nutmeg 2 quarts canned vegetable broth or low-sodium chicken broth
the fall and winter. The levels of flavor are sure to please everyone, and while packed with flavor, it's not too heavy, leaving room for additional courses. The produce and maple syrup are local, which, like many chefs, I strive for in all of my dishes.
Method 1. Halve the squash, remove seeds, rinse and set seeds aside. 2. Salt 2½ quarts of water and bring to a boil. Add squash, with skin on, to water. Boil until flesh is soft. Remove from water and let cool. 3. Heat oil in stockpot and add chopped carrots, salt and pepper. Sauté until soft. Add brandy and deglaze pan. Scrape bottom of pan as brandy is burning off alcohol. 4. Scoop flesh from squash and add to carrot mixture. Stir to combine. Add maple syrup and stir. Add broth to the squash mixture. Bring to a
boil then simmer until soup starts to thicken. Use an immersion blender or regular blender to purée squash, carrots and stock. Add allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon to bisque. 5. Add 1 tablespoon oil to frying pan, heat, add squash seeds and toast until golden brown. 6. Ladle soup into six bowls and garnish with toasted squash seeds.
518LIFEMAGAZINE.COM 47
Mark Graham Executive Chef Taste, Albany
Photos by John Carl D’Annibale.
Why I chose this…
Bitter Greens with Pâté and Roasted Pear Ingredients for the dressing: 8 tablespoons Champagne vinegar 4 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3 cups grapeseed oil 3 tablespoons honey Salt and ground white pepper, to taste
for the salad: 1 head radicchio, torn 4 ounces baby arugula
2 ounces baby kale 2 ounces frisée, torn 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt, to taste 3 pears, cut in half, seeded and slow roasted 1 cup dried cranberries 1 cup water 3 tablespoons honey 6 ounces pâté or terrine of choice, diced ½ cup pine nuts, toasted
Method 1. For the vinaigrette, blend the vinegar with the mustard and honey. Slowly whisk in the oil till it emulsifies. Season to taste. 2. Combine the cranberries in the water in a small pot on medium high. When the water simmers, stir in the honey and remove from heat. Drain the water and cool the cranberries on a sheet tray.
This winter salad celebrates the balance of texture, sweet, savory and salt. The crunchy raw bitter greens, dressed in delicious olive oil and sweetened by roasted pear, are tempered by the sweet and tart cranberries. The addition of the pâté, pine nuts and Champagne vinaigrette
a recognition of the evening’s festive purpose. is
On New Year’s Eve we give humble thanks and remorseful goodbyes for the year's gifts — new, old and continuous.
3. Toss the greens together with the extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt. Mix the dressed greens with the cranberries and pine nuts. 4. Drizzle the vinaigrette on the plate. Place the green mix on each plate. Garnish each with half a pear and surround the mix with the cubed pâté pieces.
518LIFEMAGAZINE.COM 49
Brian Bowden
Photos by John Carl D’Annibale.
Executive Chef Mingle on the Avenue Saratoga Springs
Why I chose this… In many cultures fish is viewed as lucky. It is thought
Cod and Lobster En Brodo with Black Truffles and Vegetables Ingredients for the lobster and broth: 2 1½-pound lobsters 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cups water 1 cup white wine ½ cup cognac or sherry 1 3 / cup tomato paste 4 sprigs fresh tarragon 4 sprigs fresh thyme ½ teaspoon saffron 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 bay leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
for the cod and vegetables: 3 pounds cod filet divided into 8-ounce portions (thoroughly check fish for bones) 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 small carrots, peeled and thinly sliced on the bias 2 medium leeks*, white and light green parts only, chopped
½ pound assorted mushrooms such as oyster, maitake and shiitake, stemmed and sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 1 small black truffle
Method 1. To cook the lobster, bring a large pot with about 2 inches of salted water to a boil. Add the lobster, cover and steam for 7 minutes. Remove the lobster and set it aside to cool. Reserving the shells, remove the meat from the tail and claws. Slice lobster meat, maintaining large pieces, and refrigerate. Split the body shell in half and remove the head sac. Cut the body into smaller pieces. Set aside. 2. To make the broth, heat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the lobster shells in a metal roasting pan with the onion, carrots, celery and garlic. Drizzle with the olive oil. Roast for 30 minutes, stirring twice, then transfer the shells and vegetables to a large pot. 3. Place the roasting pan over medium-high heat, add tomato
paste, stirring frequently for 2-3 minutes. Deglaze with white wine. Add this liquid and lobster shells to a pot with 4 cups of water, thyme, peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Skim the broth, then reduce to a simmer. Partially cover and barely simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. Skim frequently. Remove from heat. Add ½ cup of cognac or sherry wine, saffron and tarragon. Strain and season to taste with salt and pepper.
that a New Year’s feast of cod would improve the likelihood the upcoming year will be a prosperous and healthful one. To match the decadent, celebratory excesses of New Year’s Eve, I chose to pair lobster and truffles with cod.
4. For the cod, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots, leeks and mushrooms and sauté until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the lobster broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Season the cod with salt and pepper and place in the pan. Cover and cook until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Add the lobster meat, re-cover, remove from heat and let stand for 2 minutes. 5. Using a fish spatula, remove the cod and divide among 6 soup plates. Arrange the vegetables and lobster meat around the fish and spoon the broth over the top. Garnish with parsley and shaved black truffles.
* NOTE: Be sure to soak leeks in cold water after chopping to remove any residual dirt. 518LIFEMAGAZINE.COM 51
Scott Ringwood Chef-Owner Lake Ridge, Round Lake
Photos by John Carl D’Annibale.
Why I chose this…
Tenderloin Stuffed with Spinach and Roasted Red Peppers, with Mushroom-Cabernet Sauce Ingredients
Method
3 pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, trimmed 2 large red bell peppers, roasted and skin removed 12 ounces baby spinach, wilted 1 pound of your favorite mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster, chanterelle, porcini) left whole if small enough, or quarter them 1 tablespoon minced garlic ¼ cup minced shallot 2½ tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 teaspoons of fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 cup red wine such as cabernet or merlot 1 cup veal or beef stock Salt and pepper, to taste
1. Rub red bell peppers with oil and place under hot broiler until skin is blistered. Let cool, remove skin and seeds, and cut into strips. 2. Wilt spinach under very hot water until softened and let cool. 3. Using a sharp knife, cut horizontally into beef, unfolding it like a book; do not cut all the way through. It will be about a ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. Place between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and pound lightly to an even thickness. 4. Lightly season beef with salt and pepper, then cover with spinach, leaving a ½ inch border. Add sliced pepper strips and roll up beef like a jelly roll. Tie with butcher’s twine or cotton string at 1½- to 2-inch intervals. Season with salt and pepper and brush with oil.
5. Place beef on a sheet pan and bake at 425 degrees for 20 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350 degrees and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 125 degrees. Let rest for 15 minutes; cut crosswise into slices.
This stuffed tenderloin is perfect for your New Year’s Eve feast because it is elegant yet easy to prepare ahead of time, allowing more time with your guests. Add some roasted baby potatoes and fresh asparagus for a complete dish. You can even sprinkle with some Gorgonzola cheese. Serve it to your guests with a full-bodied red
they will be talking about the evening for a very long time. wine, and
6. In a saucepan, combine red wine and veal or beef stock and bring to a boil until reduced to ¾ cup. 7. Heat a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add 1½ tablespoon oil. When oil is hot add shallots and mushrooms; cook for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add garlic and fresh thyme, cooking for 30 seconds. Add veal stock reduction bring to a quick boil and stir in butter. Season with salt and pepper. Serve sauce with beef.
518LIFEMAGAZINE.COM 53
Marla Ortega Chef-Owner Illium Café, Troy
Photos by John Carl D’Annibale.
Why I chose this… When I was a child, my dad, who has since passed away, loved Twinkies. He was a total junk food addict. This recipe is
passing along to my own family something we used to share when I was growing up. New my way of
Twinkimisu Ingredients 6 1 ¼ 2 5 4
plain Twinkies of choice cup brewed espresso cup espresso powder 8-ounce containers mascarpone eggs, separated ounces sugar, plus 2 tablespoons 6 ounces dark rum Pinch of salt 2 tablespoons cocoa powder ¼ cup shaved dark chocolate 5 ounces chocolate sauce, such as Hershey’s
Year’s Eve at my house is about family and how we can start the new year off even better than the year before.
Method 1. Brew the espresso, place in bowl with 2 tablespoons sugar and espresso powder. Stir and let completely cool. 2. Mix egg yolks with 2 ounces sugar, and in separate bowl whisk mascarpone until all lumps are eliminated. Add mascarpone mixture to egg mixture. 3. In another clean bowl mix egg whites, pinch of salt and remaining 2 ounces sugar until they reach a firm and fluffy texture. Add mascarpone mixture into egg whites and combine
thoroughly, then stir in the rum.
powder and shaved chocolate.
4. Dip the Twinkies quickly into the coffee-espresso mixture and lay them on greased pan.
6. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 3 hours or until set.
5. Drizzle 6 martini glasses with chocolate sauce. Fill pastry bag with mascarpone mixture and fill each martini glass halfway. Place 1 Twinkie on top of mixture. Continue to fill martini glasses with remainder of mascarpone mixture. Dust with cocoa
518LIFEMAGAZINE.COM 55