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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
The Upper Delaware Valley’s long winter’s nap is over. Residents, welcome guests and visitors are looking forward to an abundance of spring and summertime activities that our region has to offer. We invite you to let The River Reporter be your guide to many of the events that await us—from fairs and parades and festivals, to farm tours, to recreational and outdoor activities, the arts and more. Walk through a chapter of national history this summer near Narrowsburg, NY as the Ten Mile River Scout Museum hosts a special look back at the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) on its 80th anniversary. A day of activities for all ages awaits on August 4, plus a retrospective exhibit that will be on display at the museum. The Lackawaxen River beckons those with an outdoor recreational bent. Find out why kayakers and rafters flock to the river, but fishers take caution when water is released to power a hydroelectric plant upstream on the river. If you’re looking for a scenic drive and a stroll through some of the region’s most inviting towns, we offer a guide for tracing the path of the historic Delaware and Hudson (D&H) Canal. Our trip (it will take you a full weekend to do it justice) starts in Honesdale, PA and ends at Port Jervis, NY. (If you have the time and inclination, the path of the canal continues on to Kingston, NY, but that trip is for another day.) Learn how you can visit any (or all!) of nine Sullivan County farms that will host a series of farm tours this summer. See how farmers are fueling the buy fresh, buy local food movement in our own neighborhood. Our entertainment reporter, Jonathan Fox, offers a look at one of the major attractions for summertime music and arts opportunities—the complex of venues at Bethel Woods. Jonathan has a long relationship with the location. (Hint: In 1969, he was one of the hippies at Woodstock.)
Jane Bollinger Section Editor
You’ll find all of this and more in this issue of the Upper Delaware Magazine. Here’s wishing you the best of summers!
4
History converges at Ten Mile River Remembering an ‘army’ that planted trees By Tom Caska
14
On the path of history Touring along the D&H Canal By Jane E. Castelli
21
A jewel of the Catskills
UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE A RIVER REPORTER LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
SPOTLIGHT ON
OUT & ABOUT
CONTENTS 7
Managing the Lackawaxen River for electricity and recreation By Katie Lester
11
The Neversink Unique Area
Loving the Lackawaxen Tribute to a tributary river The Catskills: A century of artistic expression And still going strong By Jonathan Fox
By Scott Rando
22
Agritourism blossoms in Sullivan County Local farms schedule summertime tours
26
Stuart Communications Creative Services
By Ron Tussel
24
PUBLICATION DATE: MAY 16, 2013
A chef’s very own garden Relishing summer’s bounty at Hotel Fauchere By Jane Bollinger
By Isabel Braverman Cover photo by Sandy Schultz
About the cover: Paddlers in last year’s Delaware River Sojourn approach the bridge at Narrowsburg, NY.
OUR REMARKABLE RIVER The Delaware River Sojourn is one of the oldest river sojourns in the nation, combining guided paddling excursions with interpretive programs, camping and camaraderie. The 2013 trip is from June 22 to 29. Participants can join by the day, or register for the entire week. The 60-mile trip—from the Ten Mile River Access in Sullivan County, NY to the Independence Seaport Museum Dock in Philadelphia—covers from six to 10 miles a day. Space is limited, so register early. Find information at www.delawareriversojourn.org. Address inquiries to info@riversojourn.com, or call Dejay Branch at 646/205-2724. Registration before June 15 costs $80 per day for adults, $60 for children 15 and under. Add $10 to daily rates after June 15. Add a one-time insurance fee of $5 per person for this American Canoe Association (ACA)-sanctioned event (except for ACA members).
Publisher: Laurie Stuart Section Editor: Jane Bollinger Production Manager: Amanda Reed Advertising Sales Director: Barbara Matos, ext. 34 barbara@riverreporter.com Advertising Sales Associate: Denise Yewchuck, ext. 32 denise@riverreporter.com Advertising Sales Associate: Eileen Hennessy, ext. 35 eileen@riverreporter.com Distribution: Would you like copies for your place of business? Breann: 845/252-7414, ext. 21 or trrsubs@riverreporter.com Editorial: Have a comment or idea for the magazine? Jane Bollinger: 845/252-7414, ext. 29 or jbollinger@riverreporter.com Upper Delaware, a special publication of The River Reporter, is published by Stuart Communications, Inc. Entire contents ©2012 by Stuart Communications, Inc. Mailing Address:
PO Box 150, Narrowsburg, NY 12764 Phone: 845/252-7414 • Fax: 845/252-3298
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 3
History converges at Ten Mile River Remembering an ‘army’ that planted trees By TOM CASKA There is a very good chance that, if you live in the Upper Delaware River region, you have conservation in your bones. We love the seasonal changes, the outdoors and the open spaces, and we realize what a treasure Mother Nature has given us.
Civilian Conservation Corps enrollees are seen relaxing and keeping the barrack clean.
But conservation was not always an important consideration in Sullivan and other nearby counties. In reality, many of the conservation practices of today were born out of years of misuse and abuse of our land and forests. The old-growth forest, home of the Leni-Lenape native people, was cut down long ago, falling to two of the nation’s and our region’s earliest industries—timber and tanning. (Later, tourism would round out the picture of our local economic history—the three T’s.) Timber and tanning As settlers arrived in the Delaware River Valley, local forests were harvested to feed Philadelphia’s shipbuilding industry. Later, during the Civil War, Sullivan County and its neighbors were home to tanning operations that made most of the belts, holsters, saddles and boots of the time. Hemlock trees provided tannins for the tanning process, and hickory trees provided the “ideal” color for making
A crew of enrollees prepares for a day’s work at Ten Mile River CCC Camp.
leather. The forests became depleted, leaving soil vulnerable to erosion and unable to rejuvenate itself. Conservation as we know it today was unknown. Then, things began to change. In our own area, one of America’s first conservationists, Gifford Pinchot (1865-1946), whose home is the present-day historical site Grey Towers in Milford, PA, was chosen the first chief of the U.S. Forestry Service. He put conservation of forests high on the nation’s priority list. (Pinchot is credited with coining the term “con-
servation ethic.”) The Civilian Conservation Corps This summer, the fascinating story of how parts of our area came to be reforested will be told in a celebration just outside of Narrowsburg, NY. The event marks the 80th year since the inception of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a plan born in the 1930s to give men jobs during the Great Depression and to rebuild a conservation ethic in our nation. Continued on page 5
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HISTORY CONVERGES AT TEN MILE RIVER Continued from page 4
On August 4, 2013, a full day of events is scheduled on the site of Sullivan County’s historic CCC Camp at Ten Mile River (TMR) Boy Scout Camp. There will be activities for the whole family, including tours of the CCC Camp; discussions with CCC expert John Dowd; interviews with a re-enactor portraying Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR), the charismatic U.S. president who launched the CCC; plus displays of memorabilia, artifacts and more. The story of the CCC is a tale of noble ideas, desperate times and the men who had nothing to lose and everything to gain. The Great Depression Following the Stock Market Crash of 1929, America was thrown into the grip of the Great Depression. Unemployment was (under)estimated at 25%. Families became splintered as men left home to travel great distances in search of work. Conditions were made worse by the Dust Bowl, caused largely by a crippling drought (1934-1937) in the Great Plains, but exacerbated by years of misuse of our nation’s agricultural lands. In 1933, as FDR was pushing through his “New Deal” relief programs, the CCC was born. Sometimes called Roosevelt’s “Tree Army,” it saw the fastest mobilization of young men in the U.S. in peace time. Its purpose was two-fold—first, to provide unskilled manual labor jobs to a nation of young men struggling to find work; and secondly, to establish a natural resources conservation
The barrack looks clean and warm as the men relax after a day of work.
drift boat tours
program in every state and territory. Enrollees were provided housing, clothing, food and medical care and were paid $30 a month. Of this, $25 had to be sent home. After a seven-hour workday, classes were offered in reading, writing and other skills, such as woodworking, metal work, typing and photography, to prepare the men for life after the CCC. During its nine years of operation, FDR’s “Tree This work crew is all smiles as they pose for a photograph at TMR. Army” of 2.5 million men would be responsible for planting three billion trees to TMR includes local coin collections, 2,000-year-old help reforest America. The CCC can be credited with Indian arrowheads and other tools discovered in the establishing many of our national parks; and the Apparock quarries found on the camp property. There will lachian Trail, which runs from Maine to Georgia, owes be displays by local historical societies and the National much of its clearing to the CCC. Park Service. A comprehensive video collection includes Ten Mile River Scout Camp the PBS documentary “The C.C.C.” The history of the Ten Mile River CCC Camp and the TMR/CCC day on August 4 is open to the public TMR Scout Camp are intertwined. In the 1920s, when from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Admission and parking are free. FDR was governor of New York and had been involved According to event curator David Malatzky, this is a for years with Scouting, he was part of a group of Scout “must-see” for lovers of nature and local history and a officials charged with finding a large parcel of great outdoor experience for the whole family. land to be the home camp for the New York City (NYC) Scouts. After raising $1 million to purchase and develop 10,000 acres of woodlands in Sullivan County near Narrowsburg, the NYC Scouts took possession of their camp. The deed was recorded on October 7, 1927 in Monticello, NY. Just six years later, in October 1933, CCC Camp 65 was established, operating for several years until the program was terminated. During that time, CCC enrollees helped establish roads, fire trails and communication lines from Scout camp to Scout camp. The CCC’s 80th anniversary The museum at TMR is the unifying element of the 80th anniversary event of the CCC. The large collection of memorabilia of both the CCC and A logging crew clears timber at Ten Mile River.
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Managing the Lackawaxen River For electricity and recreation By KATIE LESTER As my kayak hits the Lackawaxen and Delaware Rivers each spring, I am reminded of nature’s beauty and why I love living in this region of northeast Pennsylvania. Each time my boat passes a bald eagle nest or a screeching great blue heron, I appreciate the opportunity to recreate in such peaceful waters.
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As an employee of Pennsylvania Power & Light (PPL) at Lake Wallenpaupack, I am always reminded of the partnership between industry and nature. Oftentimes, they go hand in hand. For instance, through PPL’s 2005 relicensing to operate a hydroelectric plant downstream from the dam at Lake Wallenpaupack, many programs were put in place to enhance and provide recreation, not only on the big lake, but also on the Lackawaxen River downstream of the plant.
On six consecutive Fridays starting on or after July 1 each year, PPL facilitates boating release days along the Lackawaxen River. Another two weekend days in September or October are also offered. By modifying power generation schedules and using water from Lake Wallenpaupack, PPL has the ability to make sure that the river has adequate flow for such an event. People come from all over to get the chance to kayak or raft this normally shallow and serene river. This is one of several ways PPL is able to use Lake Wallenpaupack to support recreation and wildlife habitat while generating clean, renewable electricity. In addition, PPL partners with the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission to enhance river conditions for trout maintenance, growth and survival by ensuring that the Lackawaxen Continued on page 9
Photo courtesy PPL
Scheduled releases of water from the dam at Lake Wallenpaupack cascade through these huge pipes to turn turbines in PPL’s hydroelectric plant at Kimbles, PA. The water then rushes into the Lackawaxen River with various consequences for recreational users of the river downstream from the power plant.
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Signs posted at many locations on the Lackawaxen River warn river users that water levels may rise dramatically. While canoers and kayakers come to take advantage of the “white water” thrill, fishermen and women need to take caution not to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 7
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MANAGING THE LACKAWAXEN RIVER Continued from page 7
River can be preserved as a cold water fishery. The program consists of managing power generation from PPL’s Wallenpaupack hydroelectric plant during the summer to keep water temperatures downstream of the plant below 75 degrees. The specific area managed for temperature is between River Mile 4 (Route 590 bridge at Rowland) and River Mile 10. The cooler water provides a more beneficial habitat for wild trout, as well as for the trout stocked by the commission. The program typically runs between May and September, when water temperatures in the Lackawaxen River are most likely to exceed 75 degrees. Fishermen, rafters, boaters and anyone else who uses the Lackawaxen River for recreation are often interested in water conditions. When the hydroelectric plant is generating, the amount of water in the river increases rapidly. River users should check when the plant is generating to stay safe. PPL provides a toll-free phone number and website to supply the public with quick information on the Wallenpaupack power plant’s generation schedule, discharge to the Lackawaxen River and lake elevations. The information is updated daily, or when there is a change in the generation schedule. For more information, visit www. lakelevelppl.com or call 800/807-2474. The first boating release this season is scheduled for July 5 from 12 noon to 5 p.m. Check website for updates. [Katie Lester is PPL Manager of Community Relations, Wallenpaupack.]
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Loving the Lackwaxen Tribute to a tributary By RON TUSSEL Voted River of the Year in 2010 by the PA Department of Conservation and Natural Resources, the Lackawaxen River is known far and wide as a spectacular freestone mountain fishery. The Lackawaxen was made famous by the well-known western novelist Zane Grey. Grey spent much of his time out west, but it was in the village of Lackawaxen, where the Delaware and Lackawaxen Rivers converge, that he spent his recreational time. It was here that he penned the famous “Lord of Lackawaxen Creek,” written for the May 1909 issue of Outing magazine. The tale is of a smallmouth bass that repeatedly taught the young angler the many thrills and frustrations of freshwater fishing. The Lackawaxen River offers unique outdoor opportunities to modern day adventurists. The river gets its start miles north of the Prompton Dam in Wayne County and flows almost 30 miles to its confluence with the Delaware River in Pike County. According to Zane Grey, “It is a little river hidden away under gray cliffs and hills black with ragged pines. It is full of mossy stones and rapid ripples. All its tributaries, dashing white-sheeted over ferny cliffs, wine-brown where the whirling pools suck the stain from the hemlock root, harbor the speck-
Photo by JohnMichael Tussel
The author fishes in the Lackawaxen River every opportunity he gets.
led trout.” The Lackawaxen offers up an abundance of excellent fish habitat that is perfect for trout. Rock bass, smallmouth bass, suckers, eels and chubs or “fall fish” also find the cold, clean waters of the Lackawaxen favorable. In recent times, American shad have also been caught in the lower reaches of the river near its confluence with the Delaware. In the Wayne County town of Honesdale, the Dyberry Creek dumps into the Lackawaxen, creating an excellent spot to hook into some nice fish among the northern stretch. There is a parking area and walkway to get to the pool. Trout and even crappies have been caught here. This upper stretch of the Lackawaxen runs a bit warmer than the tail end, and anglers can expect rock bass and panfish to be a possibility. Some also like to try their hand during the spring melt-off period when water levels are naturally high but equally cold. There is only one commercial livery located along the
Lackawaxen River. Most enthusiasts use non-posted pull-off areas as access points, usually taking out at the Zane Grey launch area in the village of Lackawaxen. Caution should be exercised at all times, but especially when water levels are high. There are large boulders that create very strong eddies and currents that can suck a boat under and hold it there. High water also carries debris that can be dangerous, especially when passing under bridges. When water is released from Lake Wallenpaupack, it brings alewives and other food with it. Trout take advantage and gorge themselves to trophy proportion, creating the perfect scenario for fishing live bait, salted shiners, wobbling spoons or streamers. The river level can change rapidly during a release, though these are generally timed for non-peak use periods. (Visit www. lakelevelppl.com or call 800/807-2474 for water release schedule information.)
Photo by Ron Tussel
This beautiful brook trout is destined for the Tussel’s supper table.
This is the portrait of a happy fisherman. You can tell by the grin on the author’s face.
Continued on page 13
Photo by JohnMichael Tussel
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 11
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12 • UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE
Finding whitewater Paddling rivers in Pike County, PA and Sullivan County, NY Lackawaxen River, PikeCounty American Whitewater (AW) Class Rating II-III - 5 miles long (above Delaware River confluence) Shohola Creek, PikeCounty AW Class I-IV - 9.5 miles long (Shohola Falls Park to mouth) Callicoon Creek - East Branch, SullivanCounty AW Class I-III - 10 miles long (Route 52 bridge to confluence with North Branch, Callicoon) Callicoon Creek - North Branch, SullivanCounty AW Class II-III - 6 miles long (Gossweyler Pond and Dam to East Branch)
Bush Kill Creek, Pike/Monroe County AW Class I-IV - 25 miles long (Pickeral Lake to Bushkill) Raymondskill Creek, PikeCounty AW Class V+ - 1 mile long (SR 2009 to Route 209) Hornbeck’s Creek, PikeCounty AW Class IV-V+ - 1.8 miles long (Emery’s Road to Route 209) Brodhead Creek, MonroeCounty AW Class I-III - 21.2 miles long (Canadensis to mouth) SOURCE: www.riverfacts.com/ rivers/12832.html
LOVING THE LACKAWAXEN
Mongaup River, Orange/ SullivanCounty AW Class II-III - 2.9 miles long (Rio Dam to Delaware River)
Continued from page 11
Spinners are an excellent choice of lure to use on the river. Rooster Tails also produce well. These lures offer a variety of blade sizes and feather trailers that come in all colors. Yellow seems to be a really good producer, and chartreuse is an alltime favorite. Thomas Lures are made in the town of Hawley, and their spinners flash tantalizing gold and fish-colored spots that big trout find irresistible. Those casting flies will do well with streamers and Woolly Buggers, as well as with nymph imitators, especially early in the season. In early May, the river will come alive with the emergence of multiple species of mayflies, caddis and stoneflies, giving anglers the chance to “match-thehatch” with dry fly imitations. If you don’t know your insects, visit one of the local fly shops located along the river for assistance. These experts can tell
Delaware River, Sullivan/ Orange/ PikeCounty AW Class II - 0.2 miles long (Mongaup Wave) Wallenpaupack Creek - East Branch, PikeCounty AW Class III - 2.4 miles long (Sawmill Road to mouth)
Hiking Trails in the Upper Delaware River Valley
Bouchoux Trail, Lordsville, NY Tusten Mountain Trail, NarrowsburgBarryville, NY Minisink Battlegourd Park Trail, Minisink, NY Mongaup River Trail, Deerpark, NY Prompton State Park, Prompton PA Damascus Forest Trail, Beach Lake, PA Cobey Pond Trail, PA Game Lands, Masthope, PA
No need to take a vacation...
Photo courtesy Lander’s River Trips
Whitewater beckons paddlers and rafters from near an far in search of excitement on the Upper Delaware River and its many tributaries.
you what is hatching and when, and they will have on hand the imitations you will need. It’s not uncommon to see multiple hatches coming off at the same time on a given evening. The Lackawaxen is well stocked by the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission, both before and during the seasons. Anglers can expect to hook into brook trout, browns, rainbows, the golden palomino and even some cross breeds, such as tiger trout. Recent years also have seen supplemental stocking of giant trout by local businesses. Be aware that much of this river is posted as private property, with no trespassing allowed. You would do well to visit ahead of the season to contact landowners, locate areas open to fishing and find convenient parking for running the rapids in a canoe or kayak.
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Things to do and see in Honesdale Start your D&H Canal trail trip at the Wayne County Historical Society Museum, which offers historical exhibits, ongoing educational programs and a research and local genealogy library. The first commercial steam locomotive to run on rails in the U.S. did so in Honesdale. The D&H Canal and Gravity Railroad began just behind the building. If you want more history, visit the Old Stone Jail Museum on Tenth Street (c.1859), next to the courthouse; usually open for tours on the first Saturday of the month, summers only. Before you leave Honesdale, be sure to check out the stately Victorian homes on North Main Street, and browse in the several art galleries and many shops in town. Perhaps you’ll choose to have some lunch in one of the town’s pleasant eateries. The Wayne Co. Historical Society, 810 Main St. (570/253-3240) Open April 20 to December 28, 2013 Wednesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays, 12 noon to 4 p.m., Memorial Day and Columbus Day Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas
Other happenings: Saturday, June 15, Roots & Rhythm Music and Arts Festival, a free allafternoon & evening concert in Honesdale’s Central Park August 2 through 10, Wayne County Fair, at the fairgrounds (Route 191 North of Honesdale)
Places to Eat: The Willow Gallery Café, 118 Willow Ave. 570/253-3013 Brankos Patisserie 501 Main St. 570/253-0311 Hotel Wayne, 1202 Main St. 570/253-3290 Hotel Café, 3305 Lake Ariel Hwy (Rte 191 South) 570/352-3550 Fiesta on Main, 1139 TRR photo by Jane Bollinger Main St., 570/352-3700 Bagels, pizza, hot Originally the office of the D&H Canal Company in the late 1820s, the building is now dogs & more Paulie’s Hot Dogs, the home of the Wayne County Historical Society and Museum. 403 Park St., 570/2531998 Camp Umpys (bagels and more), 622 Main St., 570/253-0333 Two Guys Pizza, Route 6 Plaza, 570/253-2613 Elegante Restaurant & Pizzeria, 851 Main St., 570/253-3244
On the path of history
Things to Do and See in Hawley
Touring along the D&H Canal By JANE E. CASTELLI Whether you’re looking for scenic beauty, or perhaps you want to learn more about how our region was developed in times gone by, why not take a weekend and follow the trail of the old Delaware and Hudson (D&H) Canal? You’ll be exploring the remnants of our country’s early industrial and transportation history—the story of how, early in the 19th century, two clever entrepreneurs, the Wurts brothers, were able to bring Pennsylvania’s black gold—anthracite coal—to New York City. What they did was critical in our country’s development and would power the young nation’s industrial revolution, providing the fuel that gave an industrial North its edge over the agrarian South in the Civil War. The canal, built by William and Maurice Wurts between 1825 and 1828, was connected to PA coal country via John B. Jervis’s “gravity” engine railroad over Northeast Pennsylvania’s Moosic Mountains. Starting in Honesdale, PA, the canal followed the Lackawaxen River in Wayne and Pike counties, crossed the Delaware River at Lackawaxen, and followed in the shadow of the Delaware River to Port Jervis, NY. Here, it turned northward along the Neversink River, reaching the mighty Hudson at Roundout, NY near Kingston, where the coal
was put on barges chained together and, powered by steam tugs, floated downriver. Two interesting Pennsylvania towns grew up around the canal—Honesdale and Hawley. The gravity railroad brought coal from Carbondale to Honesdale, where canal boats loaded up before proceeding east to the Hudson River. Today, the Wayne County Historical Society (WCHS) is housed in the old canal company’s office building in Honesdale. The town is named after Philip Hone, the fi rst president of the D&H Canal Company (1825-1826), who soon became the mayor of New York City (1826-1827). Between Honesdale and Hawley, a series of locks allowed canal boats to navigate around rough waters and raised areas of the river. The boats were pulled by mules led by young children, some only seven or eight years old, trudging along the raised canal towpath that ran along the water’s edge. The WCHS is currently restoring parts of the old towpath and a historic farmhouse, circa 1820, located at Lock 31 between White Mills and Hawley. (The lockkeeper’s house no longer stands.) In Hawley, another large boat basin, the site of the cur-
rent Bingham Park, served as a depot for another railroad that brought Pennsylvania Coal Company coal from Pittston to Hawley, and then onward via the canal to New York. The town was named after the company president Irad Hawley. In time, that railroad had passenger service west to Dunmore, PA. One of those railroad cars now sits at the public library next to the park. At first, boats crossed the Delaware River at Lackawaxen, PA by means of a slack water dam, which allowed them to navigate across the river by slowing its flow. However that irritated the raftsmen, who relied on the river’s flow to float their timber rafts downstream. So in 1848, the canal was routed over the Delaware River by means of an aqueduct, while the logs tumbled below. Today, you can drive your car through the old aqueduct via Roebling Bridge in Lackawaxen. While other canals were usually financed by the states, for example the great Erie Canal, the D&H was the result of private investment. It was one of the largest corporations of its time. Progress, of course, was the enemy of the canal, which was eventually replaced by a railroad that th hauled the coal to New York City. The T canal was closed in 1898, and soon thereafter, the Roebling Bridge carried th automobiles over the Delaware River. a
Antiquing—A great sport for visitors to Hawley The Antique Exchange, 209 Bellemonte Ave./Rte. 6, is a large consignment sales center with about 40 dealers, 570-226-1711 Timely Treasures, 210 Welwood Ave/Rte 6. packed with Victorian pieces, lamps, curios, furniture & more. 570/226-2838 Miss Elly’s Antiques and Such, 518 Church St., décor, art and accessories, 570-226-7513) Doodles & Such, 202 Main St., 570/390-4490
Art Galleries: The Looking Glass Art Gallery, 221 Main Ave., 570/226-0782 TRR photo Artisan Picture Framing This historic silk mill factory houses a and Gallery, 204 Main Ave, modern hotel, a community college, an art local artists’ works and custom gallery, a performance space, a local gourmet food market and more. framing, 570/226-2700 Wayne County Arts Alliance,Art Market gallery at the Silk Mill, 8 Silk Mill Dr. The Settlers Inn, 4 Main Ave/Rte. 6, elegant country inn, 570/226-2993 The Ledges, 119 Falls Ave/behind the Silk Mill, 570/226-1337
Where to Dine:
The Hanson Gallery and Decorium, 1037 Main St. 570/253-2525 The Willow Gallery, 118 Willow Ave. 570/253-3013 Gallery Gallery Art, 1023 Main St., 570/642-1404
The Settlers Inn, 4 Main Ave/Rte. 6, elegant country inn, 570/226-2993 The Boathouse, 141 Pennsylvania Ave/Rte 507, wonderful food, great rustic décor, 570/226-5027 Ehrhardt’s Waterfront Restaurant, 205 Pennsylvania Ave.,/Rte 507, great view on the lake, good food, 570/226-4388 The Summit Restaurant at Masthope Mountain, 196 Karl Hope Blvd., Lackawxen, 570/685-1173
Shoppes: Milkweed, 1019 Main St. 570/253-9400 Wallflower, 513 Main St. 570/253-6080 Country Dawn, 645 Main St. 570/253-4549 Morning Glory Gifts, 617 Main St. 570/253-1210 Sun Flower Hollow, 630 Main St., 570/253-0411
Where to Play Lake Wallenpaupack, 13-mile long lake, center for fishing, boating, swimming and camping. Pocono-Lake Region Visitors Center, 2512 U.S. Rte. 6, tourist information, maps and brochures, 570/226-3191
B&Bs & Places to Stay
14 • UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE
Shopping & Browsing:
Where to Stay:
Galleries:
Hotel Wayne, 1202 Main St. 570/253-3290 The Mansion at Nobel Lane, (resort and spa) 37 Nobel Lane, Bethany, PA 866/466-3855 (toll free) Harvest Inn, (B&B), 1415 N. Main St. 570/253-4533 James Manning House (B&B), 421 Wayne St., Bethany, PA 570/2535573 E. Kellogg (B&B), 403 Wayne St., Bethany, PA 570/253-5368 The Inn at Willow Pond (B&B), 42 Niles Pond Rd. (in the country, north of Honesdale) 570/253-3930
The Silk Mill: 8 Silk Mill Dr. 855/795-7455, www.hawleysilkmill.com/ The historic Bellemonte silk mill building has been converted into a sophisticated cultural, educational, and business center. Yes, once they really made silk here, and right next door in the present-day coffeehouse, The Cocoon, strands of silk worm cocoons were harvested to produce silk. Harmony Presents in the Boiler Room is a venue for musical performances and other entertainment, www.silkmillharmony.com/ The Mill Market, an upscale mini-market featuring local foods, www.millmarketpa.com/ The Ritz Company Playhouse, 512 Keystone St., 570/226-9752 Playing this summer, “Young Frankenstein,” “The Little Mermaid Jr.,” “Ghost of a Chance,” “Take a Number Darling,” “You’ve Got Hate Mail”
TRR photo by Jane Bollinger
TRR photo by Jane Bollinger
The Wayne County Historical Society is restoring this circa 1820 farmhouse at Lock 31 of the D&H Canal between White Mills and Hawley, PA.
TThe old lock house, now a private residence, still stands on Towpath Road between Hawley and st LLackawaxen PA. La
Map courtesy James R. Irwin via Wikimedia Commons
Side Trip to White Mills Dorflinger Glass Museum, off Long Ridge Rd. on Suydam Dr., White Mills, PA, 570/253-1185; Estate of Dorflinger family is now a glass museum and wildlife sanctuary, home to the Wildflower Music Festival. www. dorflinger.org/wildflower_music_festival.html, 570/253-5500
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 15
151st Annual
A beautifully restored craftsman lodge
A The Settlers Inn wedding is a cherished memory created with thoughtful attention to detail. Our professional and courteous staff will assist you with every aspect of your special day. The Inn offers comfor table lodging in twenty guest rooms, all with private bath, air conditioning and modern amenities individually appointed in the craftsman style with eco-friendly flair. Many feature cozy fireplaces and luxurious whirlpool tubs.
4 Main Avenue, Hawley, PA
LO U S FABU
The cor ner stone of the Inn is our authentic regional cuisine. Each menu highlights fresh and healthy produce from local organic far mer s and pur veyor s. Our wine list has been recognized by Wine Spectator for the past seven year s with an Award of Excellence.
A stone entr yway leads to our gardens for outside enter taining. Cher r y woodwor k, ar t glass and ar royo wall sconces provide a sense of war mth, serenity and comfor t for your reception
The Inn’s 25-year tradition of fresh farm-totable cuisine and fine service will allow you to breathe easy and enjoy time with family, friends and your special someone in our Ar ts and Crafts-inspired gathering areas.
| 570-226-2993 • 800-833 8527 | www.thesettlersinn.com | settler@settlersinn.com
LOCAL THEAT RE
COMPANY PLAYHOUSE OUR 41ST YEAR
570-226-9752
THURSDAYS June 27 - August 29 | 3-6pm St. George Church Parking Lot 97 Schoolhouse Hill Road JEFFERSONVILLE FRIDAYS June 7 - October 11 | 3-6pm SC Visitors AssociaƟon Parking Lot 100 Sullivan Avenue LIBERTY
2013 Season Broadway Musicals Comedies Dramas
FRIDAYS July 5 - August 30 | 3-6pm FireĮghter͛s Pavilion 3594 Route 55 KAUNEONGA LAKE
SUMMER SEASON*
JULY, AUGUST, & First Week in September
SUNDAYS May 5 - November 24 | 11am-2pm Callicoon Creek Park A. Dorrer Drive CALLICOON
Student & Senior Citizen Discounts
Air Conditioning Historic Playhouse
Visit our website to view our complete schedule
www.ritzplayhouse.com 512 Keystone Street Hawley, PA
Local Farms + Neighborhood Businesses + Community www.SullivanCountyFarmersMarkets.org 24 "3 62 %6) 1*2 999 %')&22. '20
Bob’s Seamless Gutters When you want it done right the first time • • • • • •
On Site Manufacturing 5" Residential 6" & 7" Commercial 36 Colors Available Leaf Guard Systems All Work Done by Owner
Bob Ferry Jr., Owner Pond Eddy, NY
16 • UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE
845-557-8967 800-928-8113
One place, one price.. Countless memories!
Wayne County Fairgrounds located on Rte 191 N. Honesdale, PA 18431 AUGUST 2-10, 2013 MIDWAY OPENS AT 12 NOON
$8 PAY ONE PRICE
Per person (24 mos. & older) *All rides have posted Height requirements.
Tony Petersen’s Hell Drivers Sat., Aug. 3, 7:15 pm Tues., Aug. 6, 2:00 pm __________________
Farm Tractor Pull Pedal Pull Sun., Aug. 4, 3:00 pm & 5:00 pm __________________
Semi & Diesel Pickup Pull
Justin Moore
Mon., Aug. 5, 7:00 pm __________________
Local 4WD Truck Pull Tues., Aug. 6, 7:00 pm __________________
Fri, Aug. 2nd 8:00pm Track Seats $30 Grandstand Seats $20 MIDWAY RIDES LIVE ENTERTAINMENT THRILL SHOWS FARM ANIMALS
BlackJack Billy Wed., Aug. 7, 8:00 pm
Fireworks Immediately Following __________________
Monster Truck Show Thurs., Aug. 8, 7:00 pm Sat., Aug. 10, 7:00 pm Adults $12 per ticket Kids (12 & under) $8 per ticket For Show Ticket information go to www.waynecountyfair.com Note: Event Tickets do not include admission to the fairgrounds.
www.waynecountyfair.com
Highlights along the Delaware Photo courtesy Derek Ramsey via Wikimedia Commons
Things to see & do on the PA side:
The drive along New York State Rte. 97 between Pond Eddy and Port Jervis, NY offers spectacular scenery such as this view at Hawks Nest.
Towpath Road scenery from Hawley to Lackawaxen, PA Leaving Hawley on Rte. 590 East, take a right turn at the firehouse and ride the towpath all the way to the Delaware River. The sparkling waters and lush mountain views make a visual treat.
Remains of the canal On either side of Towpath Road, you can see sections of the old canal or remnants of its massive stonewalls.
Lock Houses At least two restored, privately owned lock houses with identifying signs can be seen along Towpath Road.
Eagle watching Keep your eyes peeled and you may catch a glimpse of these magnificent birds in flight above the river area.
Zane Grey Museum, 135 Scenic Dr., Lackawaxen, PA Home of Zane Grey, early 20th century Western fiction writer, author of “Riders of the Purple Sage.” Operated by the National Park Service, the property overlooks the Delaware River with water access. 570/685-4871.
Places to stay: The Roebling Inn (B&B), 155 Scenic Dr., Lackawaxen, PA, charming B&B that faces the Delaware River. The building was built by D&H Canal Company in 1870. 570/685-7900 The Inn at Lackawaxen, 188 Scenic Dr., Lackawaxen, PA, food and lodging, 570/685-7061 TRR photo by Jane Bollinger
Minisink Revolutionary War Battleground, off Rte. 97 in Barryville, rryvillle NY Hiking trails and park honoring patriots killed at Battle of Minisink on July 22, 1779 Barryville, NY, on Rte. 97 (one of nearly a dozen farmers’ markets in Sullivan County); from May 18 through October 25th, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., rain or shine
Scenic Route 97 Enjoy the scenery. Of particular note is a section between Pond Eddy and Port Jervis, known as Hawk’s Nest. The view is spectacular with Rte. 97 running along the side of several cliffs overlooking the Delaware River. Bring your camera. You also will find several roadside trail markers that share some short history. This one-lane bridge crosses T the t Delaware River at Lackawaxen, PA. Where these L motorcyclists ride was once an m aqueduct filled with water to a transport canal barges. Begun in t 1847, this is the oldest existing 1 wire w suspension bridge in the U.S.
The Roebling Bridge at Lackawaxen was originally an aqueduct for barges on the D&H Canal, transporting Pennsylvania coal from Honesdale, PA to the Hudson River and then on to New York City. John Roebling also designed that city’s famous Brooklyn Bridge.
Things to see & do on the New York side:
Farmers’ Markets
The Zane Grey Museum tells the story of the famous author of Western novels whose home is now a charming museum operated by the National Park Service in the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River area.
Photo from National Park Service
Photo courtesy joiseyshowaa via Wikimedia Commons
This winding road is to be found following the path of the Delaware River along a portion of New York State Rte. 97 south of Pond Eddy, NY.
Forestburgh Playhouse About 15 miles north of Barryville on Rte. 42; 2013 season includes “The Odd Couple,” “Joseph’s Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat,”9” to 5,” “Spamalot,” “Grease,” “South Pacific” and “The 39 Steps.”
Bethel Woods Center for the Arts (About 17 miles north of Barryville take Rt. 55 off Route 97 then left onto Rt17B for 2 miles) Concerts, Woodstock museum, educational programs
The Minisink Valley Historical Society In Port Jervis, NY at 125-133 West Main St. Housed in Fort Decker (1760) an old stone house, it has information on the area from the Colonial era, revolution era, canal era, railroad era and more.
Port Jervis D&H Canal Trail Two-and-a-half-mile paved walking trail at Grand View Ave. and West Main St. along the old the towpath.
Continued on page 18
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 17
HIGHLIGHTS ALONG THE DELAWARE Continued from page 17
Neversink Valley Museum 26 Hoag Rd., Cuddebackville, NY, 845/754-8870 This Orange County NY museum includes the D&H canal park, research library, artifacts from the canal era, and information on silent film era.
Where to eat: Il Castello, 3438 Rte. 97, Barryville, NY, casual Italian food and pizza, 845/ 557-6300 Tre Alberi Ristorante, Rte. 97, Barryville Cedar Rapids Bar & Grill, Barryville, also kayak and canoe outfitters, 845/557-6158 Carriage House Hotel and Restaurant, 3351 Rte. 97, Barryville, 845/557-0400 Millbrook Inn,1774 Rte.97, Pond Eddy, great German food and beer selection, 845/856-7778 Arlene & Tom’s Restaurant, 265 E Main St, Port Jervis, family dining, good burgers, 845/856-8488
18 • UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE
Brother Bruno’s Pizza, 17 Front St., Port Jervis, 845/856-4361 The Erie Hotel and Restaurant, 9 Jersey Ave., Port Jervis, casual dining, good food, 845/858-4100 [Across the river from Port Jervis, NY in Matamoras, PA close to I-84: Yuli Japanese Sushi, Apple Grill, Perkins Pancake House, Yanni’s World Delight, plus your choice of fast food and Chinese eat in]
Where to stay: ECCE (B&B), 19 Silverfish Rd Barryville, NY 845/557-8562 Spring House Commons (B&B), 54 River Rd., Barryville, NY, an historic inn dating to the 1880s, 845/557-8189 Mount Pleasant House (B&B), 38 Corkscrew Rd. Barryville, NY, 845/557-3838 Sticket Inn, 3380 Rte. 97, Barryville, 845/557-0913 The Erie Hotel and Restaurant, 9 Jersey Ave., Port Jervis, NY 845/858-4100 [There is a Days Inn in Port Jervis, and across the river in Matamoras, PA are Best Western, Hampton Inn and a Comfort Inn]
TRR photo by Scott Rando
Whether you set out on an eagle watching expedition, or just happen to spot one of these magnificent birds while wandering along the Upper Delaware River and its tributaries, catching sight of one is always a special experience. Here, a male eagle leaves the nest after being relieved of incubation duty by the female. It takes 12 to 14 weeks for a hatchling to grow to fledging stage.
Events Calendar: Summer 2013 Parades, Fairs and Festivals
May 25, Art Experience & Chalk Walk, Jeffersonville, NY www.jeffersonvilleny.com, or 845/482-2194 May 26, Sullivan County Soap Box Derby, Liberty, NY, 845/292-1878 June 8, Trout Parade, Livingston Manor, NY www.troutparade.com, or 845/436-4227 June 9, Tractor Parade, Callicoon, NY, 845/887-4444 June 9, Peddle & Paddle Festival, Prompton State Park, PA, www.friendsofprompton.com June 15, Roots & Rhythm Music & Arts Festival, Honesdale, PA, www.honesdalerootsandrhythm.com July 6, Independence Day Parade & Street Fair, Roscoe, NY July 19 & 20, Sidewalk Sales Days, Honesdale, PA, www.visithonesdalepa.com June 22 thru 29 Delaware River Sojourn, canoe/kayak trip, www.delawareriversojourn.org July 14 thru 28, Weekend of Chamber Music Summer Festival, www.wcmconcerts.org/ pages/concerts.html July 21, annual 5K River Run, Callicoon, NY 845/887-5155 July 27, Callicoon Street Fair, Callicoon, 845/887-3016 July 28, 23rd annual RiverFest, Narrowsburg, NY, 845/252-7576 August 2 thru 10, 151st Wayne County Fair, Honesdale, PA, 570/2535486, www.waynecountyfair.com August 16 thru 18, 134th Little World’s Fair, Grahamsville, NY, www. grahamsvillefair.com
In this list you’ll find many of the events our area has to offer. Whether you live here or you’re visiting, here are some ideas for how to spend a perfect summer day. Keep in mind, we don’t know about every event and attraction. Think you should be on the list? Email copyeditor@riverreporter.com and ask us to include you next year..
August 23, 24 & 25, Wallyfest, Hawley, PA, wallylakefest.com August 2 & 3, Catskill Fly Fishing Ctr. & Museum “Summerfest Angler’s Market & Festival,” Livingston Manor, NY, 845/ 439-4810 September 1, 8, 15, 22 & 29 (Sundays), Harvest Festival and Craft Festival. Bethel Woods, Bethel, Sundays, Sept. 1 thru 29
Tours and special programs June 16, Secret Garden Tour, Wayne County Historical Society, 570/253-3240 TRR photo by Sandy Long Everyone enjoys the Callicoon Tractor Parade, July 26, 27, and 28, Wayne County as this little girl did last year. The 2013 Tractor Arts Alliance Open Studio Tour, Waynecountyartsalliance.org, or 570/253- Parade is slated for June 9. 6850 June 29, Sullivan County Garden Tour in Bloomingburg, NY, www.sullivanarc.org/ Throughout the summer Gillinder Glass Factory and Museum, Port Jervis, NY www. gillinderglassstore.com, or 845/856-5375 Throughout the summer Ice Works, Factory Tour and Ice Harvest Museum, Hawley, PA sculptediceworks.com/tour, or 570/226-6246
TRR photo by Sandy Long
The 2013 Trout Parade in Livingston Manor will be on June 8.
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www.miriamhernandez.com A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 19
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A jewel of the Catskills: The Neversink Unique Area By SCOTT RANDO The Neversink Unique Area, otherwise known as the Neversink Gorge, is a 5,466-acre tract of land encompassing the Neversink River Gorge and surrounding upland forest in the towns of Thompson and Forestburgh in Sullivan County, NY. Administered by the New York State Department of Envrionmental Conservation (NYSDEC), this designated Unique Area first came into being in 1981, when the first 2,805-acre tract of land was acquired. Aptly described by the Nature Conservancy as one of the 75 “Last Great Places” of the United States, Latin America, and the Pacific, the Neversink Unique Area is a shining example of pristine wilderness that is accessible to the public. Many fishermen know the Neversink
Gorge as a highly regarded trout fishery. The Neversink River holds a variety of native trout in its fast-flowing waters, and there are even some smallmouth bass in the river in this area. Be prepared to do a little walking, depending on where you access the river, and keep in mind that fishing within the Unique Area is no kill and with artificial lures only. Check the NYSDEC rules for details. For the hiker, the Neversink Gorge offers well marked and maintained trails and access to many falls and river areas. Forest areas range from mature hardwood to mixed forest and undisturbed streams and riverbanks. Stands of white pine and hemlock abound. Having a trail map is advised; a map from the NY-NJ Trail Conference can be found here: www.nynjtc.org/map/neversink-gorgetrail-map.
Rhododendron, which is plentiful in the Neversink Gorge, lines this well maintained trail on the east side of the river. I was hard pressed to find evidence that people used these trails aside from boot prints, which speaks highly of both land stewards and users alike.
TRR photos by Scott Rando
Mullet Falls is one of several falls within the Neversink Unique area. These falls are slightly over two miles round trip from the Katrina Falls Rd. parking area.
A pair of mergansers winging their way upstream over the river yielded a close encounter as they sped by. The Neversink Unique Area, with its large area of undisturbed habitat, provides many opportunities for wildlife viewing.
Neversink River, shown here looking upstream, is an ideal trout fishery. There are several trails that access the river directly, and the Blue Trail parallels the river. There is, however, no means of reaching the opposite bank of the river via the trail system.
Most of the hiking trails within Neversink Gorge are well marked and maintained. Find more information on individual trails at www.trailkeeper.org/trail/ neversink-unique-area/
Around 1800, a wire suspension bridge crossed the river in the Neversink Gorge. The remains of the abutment are seen here on the west bank. A settlement called Hackledam, settlement was located on the east bank at the confluence of Wolf Brook. Foundations and other remnants can still be seen. A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 21
Agritourism blossoms in Sullivan County Local farms schedule summertime tours By ISABEL BRAVERMAN Sean Zigmund and Cheyenne Miller are already deep into the 2013 spring and summer growing season, rising at dawn and working till dusk and still never quite finishing all that needs to be done. But offered the choice, they wouldn’t want to have any other job. On a beautiful spring Sunday, I visited their farm, Root n’ Roost Farm (www. rootnroost.com) in White Sulphur Springs, NY. While Sean was busy working, Cheyenne kindly gave me a tour of their two-and-a-half-acre farm, complete with chickens, pigs, veggies and more. The couple offers tours of their farm every weekend, along with a farm stand, but this summer, they will join a larger network of farms that offer tours as part of Farmstock, a Sullivan-County-born idea to bring the public to the farms, that
is being held throughout the summer. Cheyenne said it’s a great way to educate people about farming. “Hands-on exposure to how food is produced plays a huge role in motivating people to buy their food from local farms and support our local economy,” she said. Both Cheyenne and Amy Erlwein, an organizer of Farmstock who owns Erlwein Farms in Jeffersonville, said that kids love the farm tours. Cheyenne added that kids will come to the farm and see “where bacon comes from and collect their own eggs for breakfast.” As we stood by the pig pens, the chickens roamed around and pecked at my legs, something I’ve never experienced and that is, quite frankly, scary. Cheyenne assuaged my fears and picked up one of the chickens, cradling it in her arms for a few minutes. The pecking chickens and lovable pigs are things that we don’t often get to see—
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TRR photos by Isabel Braverman
These chickens have free range of the farmyard at Root N Roost.
the behind the scenes of local farms. Many people in Sullivan County and surrounding areas have probably never been to a farm, despite the abundance of them nearby. Agriculture represents one of the largest economic sectors in Sullivan County, with the combined output value of agriculture exceeding $68,000,000 in 2010. Farmstock brings the people to the source, and lets them learn and play farmer for a day. Farmstock was started in March 2010 by a group of “farm women” who saw
their farms dwindling. They started a farm network, and out of an interest in trying to educate people, they started Farmstock. “They wanted to have people come and visit the farms to see how their food is raised and what farmers go through to bring food to the table,” said Erlwein. Farmstock started with four or five farms, and last year, they did 12 events. This year, there will be nine events. Continued on page 23
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AGROTOURISM BLOSSOMS
come to their property and help set up a green house. They also hold classes, like Continued from page 22 how to keep bees. On the day of my visit, Erlwein said, “Our mission is to be a participant in World Wide Opportuniadvocates for farmers to help them in any ties on Organic Farming (WWOOF, www. way we can and to educate people as to wwoofinternational.org) had just left, why small farms are important.” and a new intern was to arrive that day. In fact, farm tours are growing increasInterning and organiingly popular. In a zations like WWOOF time when small, local What is agritourism? provide an excellent Agricultural tourism, or agritourism, farms may be strugway for those who want is a commercial enterprise at a gling to survive, agri- working farm, ranch or agricultural to learn about farmtourism brings in extra plant conducted for the enjoyment or ing to get educated; it’s profit. A 2000 study education of visitors that generates like going to college. from Cornell University supplemental income for the owner. “Being a farm intern, reported that farmers Agritourism can include a farm stand you learn about more who turned to agrito- or shops, U-pick, farm stays, tours, than just the plants and urism could be as much classes, fairs, festivals, pumpkin animals that you raise; as 40% more profitable patches, Christmas tree farms, you also learn to listen winery weddings, orchard dinners, than those who did to your body’s physical youth camps, barn dances, hunting not. A USDA census of or fishing, guest ranches and more. limits, to truly appreciagriculture, conducted ate community and to every five years, estirespect nature in all of its strength and mated that 23,000 farms offered agritoglory,” said Cheyenne. urism activities in 2007, bringing in an If you want to see for yourself why average of $24,300 for each in additional Sean and Cheyenne love their job, come income. Not only is giving tours educaand visit them. Root n’ Roost’s Farmstock tional, but it’s also a good business plan. tour is on Saturday, August 10, and they And it doesn’t end with just tours; will offer a workshop called “Fowl Play: farmers are getting creative. Permaculture with Chickens and Ducks” Root n’ Roost, for example, held a and DIY hoop house construction. So go “work and learn party,” where they on, get your hands dirty. invited anyone who wanted to learn to
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Farmstock 2013 Schedule Saturday, June 1 Rosehaven Alpacas 540 County Road 164, Callicoon 914/953-2506, 845/887-6801, www. rosehavenalpacas.com • Farm tours • Spinning demo • Craft corner for kids
Saturday, June 29 Cheyenne Miller shows off a ‘hoop Apple Pond Farm house’ that lets farmers to extend their 80 Hahn Road, Callicoon Center 845/482-4764, www.applepondfarm.com growing season by allowing planting earlier • All about chickens • 2 p.m. goat milking/cheese making • Gardening tips
Saturday, July 6 Snowdance Farm 218 Knickerbocker Rd, Livingston Manor 845/439-5561 • Check out baby pigs & chicks • Walking farm tour
Saturday, July 20 Diehl Homestead Farm 93 Diehl Road, Callicoon 845/482-5047
• Honey extracting &maple syrup • 2 p.m. milking demo • Cheese making
Saturday, August 10 Root n’ Roost Farm 64 Mineral Springs Rd, Livingston Manor 845/292-9126, www.rootnroost.com • Fowl play: permaculture with chickens & ducks • 1 p.m. DIY hoop house construction
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Cheyenne Miller corralled a wayward chicken. Behind her some of the farm’s fenced-in raised growing beds are visible.
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Saturdays, Wayne County Farmers Market, Wayne County Visitors Center, Honesdale Wednesdays, Mid-week Farmers Market at The Cooperage, 1030 Main St., Honesdale Fridays, Hawley Farmers Market, Bingham Park, Hawley
For more information contact 570-685-1173 or check us out on the web at www.summitrestaurant.net.
Sunday, August 18 Bethel Creamery 522 Happy Avenue, Swan Lake 845/583-6059 • Hay rides with educational info • Tour of milking process • View of bottling plant
Saturday, August 24 Rafters Farm 605 Dutch Hill Road, Roscoe 607/498-5445 • Horse rides • Free-range chickens • Home of rescued animals
Saturday, August 31 Channery Hill Farm / Halloran Farm 77 Keller Road, Callicoon Center 845/482-4369 • • • •
Herbs & vegetable growing Canning & preserving demo European red deer Antler jewelry & knife making
Saturday, September 8 Bridle Hill Farm 190 Hemmer Road, Jeffersonville 845/482-3993, www.bridlehillfarm. com • Western mini trail ride • English trotting lunge session • Grooming & saddling
Located at Ledges Hotel 120 Falls Avenue, Hawley, PA 18428 Phone: 570-226-1337 | info@ledgeshotel.com http://www.ledgeshotel.com
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in the spring and harvesting later in the fall.
Farm markets: NEW YORK Barryville Farm Market, Saturdays, May 18 thru Oct 25 Bethel Farmers’ Market at Kauneonga Lake, Fridays 2:30 to 6 p.m. from July 6 thru August 31. Big Eddy Farm Market (Narrowsburg) www. facebook.com/BigEddyFarmstand/info Callicoon Farmers Market Jeffersonville Farmers Market Liberty Farmers Market Monticello Farm Market For Sullivan County Farmers Markets, see: sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org
A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 23
The Catskills: Centuries of artistic expression ...and still going strong By JONATHAN FOX During the summer of ‘69, I stuck out my thumb and hitched a ride from the Finger Lakes to Bethel, NY, in search of a music festival that like-minded hippies were flocking to—Woodstock. Little did we know that history was in the making, but by the time I arrived, the story had already begun to unfold and at this point, that tale has been told in books, films and songs that echo the sound of a generation and still inspire musicians and artists around the world. The teenage me had no idea that I would return one day and make the Catskills my home, nor that my life would center on the arts and the rich history that has drawn creativity to the region for decades, long before Yasgur’s Farm became a muddy host to 400,000, clad in tie-dye and dedicating their lives to peace, love and happiness.
The landscape has changed since Jimi Hendrix left the stage, but visitors still arrive in droves to relive their youth, honor the past and soak up the vibes that haunt the land. The property, now known as the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts (BWCA), reveres the history, but is determined to build on its foundation and carry the torch into the future, celebrating music, the arts, and the creativity that was spawned as the skies opened and the rains came down during those well documented days. Bethel Woods is new. As recently as 1996, Alan Gerry, a Liberty, NY cable television pioneer, purchased the original festival field and 1,700 acres surrounding it, with plans for the arts center. The $100 million project was launched by the Gerry Foundation in 2004. Despite many obstacles, Gerry’s vision came to fruition and once again, thousands flock. It’s probably fair to say that most of the hippies had no idea that this locale was
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
Overlooking the original Woodstock memorial site, the Pavilion stage at Bethel Woods draws over 100,000 music fans each season.
no stranger to the arts. In fact, there were well known, established artists’ colonies nearby in the early 1900s. One of these complexes, Byrdcliffe, was actually in the town of Woodstock, NY and was founded in 1902 by Ralph Radcliffe Whitehead, Hervey White and Bolton Brown. Before long, some of the founders came to a parting of the ways and another colony emerged—The Maverick. Potters, jewelers, painters, weavers and photographers quickly discovered that the bucolic atmosphere was conducive to creativity and word spread rapidly, attracting hundreds to the area, seeking a refuge in which to express themselves. To this day, Byrdcliffe and the surrounding region’s history maintains a reputation as a haven for inspiration, and the grounds are now home to residencies that cater to world-class artists and composers, culminating with yearly exhibitions that still draw visitors from
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
Thousands of original concert attendees flock to the original site of the Woodstock Music Festival. This pair, known as “Grandma and Grandpa Woodstock” hold court every August, regaling visitors with their stories from the summer of ‘69. 24 • UPPER DELAWARE MAGAZINE
Bethel Woods Center for the Arts attracts major recording artists who perform to sold-out crowds under the stars. Pictured here is Janet Jackson executing some of her signature moves on the Pavilion Stage.
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
Lynyrd Skynyrd as he appeared on the main stage at Bethel Woods.
around the world. While Woodstock, NY and the music festival that bore its name are not one and the same, it’s possible that the confusion enhances both sectors. The fresh mountain air, scenic vistas and spectacular waterways continue to attract those seeking an escape from city life, be it for a day, a month, or a lifetime. Folks from all walks of life can be found throughout the region, but the arts community has never flagged. Not unlike the hippies, many of the farms have gone, but new ones—smaller, specialized, artisanal farms—have begun to spring up, and while many of the artists have never left, new ones arrive daily and now call the Catskills home. Music fills the air, art galleries abound and writers write, expanding on the rich history that laid the groundwork for a future that is bright and beautiful. Bethel Woods continues to grow, buildContinued on page 25
THE CATSKILLS
The arts, culture & such
Continued from page 24
ing on what was, with a keen eye on the future. The Museum at Bethel Woods, which has a permanent exhibit celebrating the story of the sixties and the Woodstock experience, also showcases a film and speaker series and rotating outdoor sculpture collections. The adjoining Event Gallery presents intimate concerts and family-friendly events coupled with educational programs. The Pavilion Stage, which overlooks the original concert site, features world class acts that perform outdoors, and seats 15,000 music lovers, whether under the Pavillion or sprawled on the expansive lawns. Major artists in the world of rock, classical, country and jazz have graced the stage, including Bob Dylan, Tim McGraw, Elton John and the New York Philharmonic. In addition to music, the arts center presents a monthlong Harvest Festival on the grounds
Performing arts, theatres and playhouses
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
Forty-four years later, Fox, right, returns to the original Woodstock site with boyhood chum, Leslie Helyes.
showcasing the work of every type of creative genius and exemplifies the ongoing tradition of a flourishing artists’ retreat— the Catskills.
Weekend of Chamber Music www.wcmconcerts.org or box office 845/887-5803 Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, Bethel, NY www.bethelwoodscenter.org Delaware Valley Opera, Narrowsburg, NY, www.delawarevalleyopera.org Forestburgh Playhouse and Tavern, Forestburgh, NY, www.fbplayhouse.org NACL Theatre, Highland Lake, NY, www.nacl.org or 845/557 0694 Ritz Company Playhouse, Hawley, PA, ritzplayhouse.com or 570/226-9752 Shandelee Music Festival, July & August, Livingston Manor, NY www.shandelee.org or 845/439-3277 Sullivan County Dramatic Workshop, www.scdw.net 845/436-5336 Dorflinger Wildflower concerts, White Mills, PA, 570/253-1185
Museums Grey Towers National Historic Site, 151 Grey Towers, Milford, PA, 570/296-9630 Zane Grey Museum, 135 Scenic Dr., Lackawaxen, PA, 570/685-4871 Pike County Historical Society, The Columns Museum, 608 Broad St., 570/296-8126 Ten Mile River Scout Museum, Route 97 near Narrowsburg, NY, www.tmrmuseum.org or summer phone number 845/252-3775 Hurleyville Museum (Sullivan County Historical Society), 265 Main St., Hurleyville, NY 845/434-8044 Equinunk Historical Society, 1972 Pine Mill Rd., Equinunk, PA, 570/224-6722 Wayne County Historical Society, 810 Main St., Honesdale, PA, www.waynehistorypa.org or 570/253-3240 Dorflinger Glass Museum, 37 Suydam Dr., White Mills, PA, www.dorflinger.org/ glass_museum.html or 570/253-1185
Art galleries NEW YORK
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
In addition to rock, jazz and classical concerts, Bethel Woods Center for the Arts has an active educational program for families. Here the Delaware Valley Opera Company performs “Amahl and the Night Visitors,” as the kids learn how an opera is put together.
Delaware Arts Center/Alliance Gallery, Loft Gallery, Narrowsburg The River Gallery—The Art of Living, Narrowsburg Callicoon Fine Arts, Callicoon Liberty Museum and Arts Center, Liberty Catskill Artists Gallery, Liberty Catskill Art Society, Livingston Manor Up Front Exhibition Space, Port Jervis Cedarwood Center for the Arts, Port Jervis Red Eft Gallery, Wurtsboro Stray Cat Gallery, Bethel Wurtsboro Arts Alliance, Wurtsboro
Art galleries PENNSYLVANIA
TRR photo by Jonathan Fox
The Event Gallery at Bethel Woods offers a more intimate venue for performances in its 440seat performance space.
The ARTery Fine Art & Fine Craft Gallery, 210 Broad St. Milford, www. arterygallerymilford.com or 570/409-1234 The Artisan Exchange, 219 Broad St., Milford, www.theartisanexchange.com or 570/296-5550 Golden Fish Gallery, 307 Broad St., Milford, www.goldenfishgallery.com or 570/296-0413 Bluestone Gallery, 104 E. Ann St., Milford, www.bluestonegallerymilford.com or 570/296-9999 Hansen Gallery & Decorium, 1037 Main St., Honesdale, www.thehansongallery. com/ or 570/253-2525 Gallery Gallery Art, Honesdale The Willow Gallery, 118 Willow Av., Honesdale, www.willowrivergallery.com/ contact.htm or 570/253-3013 Looking Glass Gallery, 221 Main Ave., Hawley, www.lookingglassartgallery.com or 570/226-0782 Wayne County Arts Alliance Art Market, 8 Silk Mill Dr., Hawley, waynecountyartsalliance.org or 570/390-4420 A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 25
A chef with a garden of his own Relishing summer’s bounty at Hotel Fauchere By JANE BOLLINGER MILFORD, PA — For years, chefs have been championing the local foods movement, buying from local farmers who provide fresh, top-quality ingredients. But how many chefs have their very own garden to work with? Chef Christopher Bates at Milford’s Hotel Fauchère does, and he says it makes all the difference.
receiving a bounty of fresh vegetables. In winter, the kitchen relies on root vegetables that store well or overwinter, as well as on a small greenhouse to grow microgreens, carrots, beets, radishes and fresh herbs. “We plant a little bit of everything,” Bates says, including some vegetables perhaps you never heard of, such as crosnes (pronounced CRONES) and cardoons.
From a chef’s viewpoint, it’s all about the food. “There has to be more than just the quality of the produce,” Bates explained. “Our food focuses on seasonal“Just about every- Preparing for the 2013 growing season starts early. These starter plants in the ity and artisanship. We’re always pushthing is an heirloom greenhouse will be transplanted in the nearby farm garden, which in summertime ing the envelope with the dishes we serve, varietal, and the garden supplies nearly all of the vegetables for the hotel’s three restaurants. Some of the and the garden is the launching point for summer harvest is preserved for wintertime use, too. follows natural growing that.” The garden serves all three of the practices (no chemical hotel’s restaurants. pesticides or fertilizers). “Being connected to a farm brings us Bates has been the Fauchère’s chef for closer to what we use. If you have only four years. He talks fondly of learning to six or maybe 12 ingredients to work cook. “I started cooking with my mother with (depending on what’s available that when I was a little kid. I always loved it,” week), it gives us a limited parameter, but he said. “Just about everything my Mom it allows us to be more creative with what “Summer Garden” is a salad taught me is still with me today. I think I we have. of garden leaves, vegetables and just always had a passion for food.” “Growing it yourself instills more fruits that await summertime His fi rst job in a restaurant kitchen respect in what you produce. Our cuisine diners in The Delmonico Room, one of the hotel’s three came when he was 14. Later, he attended is more vegetable heavy. We do use meat restaurants. hotel school at Cornell before working his and fish, but our specialty is vegetables. way around the country (Wyoming, ChiThe farm helped us focus on this.” cago and Texas) and around the world (Italy and GerHotel Fauchère’s one-acre garden is located about a many). mile away on a farm owned by one of the hotel’s prinBates is also an accomplished sommelier. Right now, cipals. It has one fulltime, year-round employee, who he’s working on his Master Sommelier exam, which will tends the garden in the summer and works in the hotel include a blind taste test of six wines. Farmer Mike Ellett is in charge of the Hotel Fauchere’s farm in the winter. Hotel guests are welcome to ask for a garden. Bates is proud of his food. “We try to have a connection garden tour, or the site can serve as a venue for a picnic with everything we serve. We cure all of our own meats lunch packed by the kitchen staff. in-house. During tomato time, we probably harvest 150 This year’s spring planting was already underway sevpounds a week—enough for all of our restaurants, but eral weeks ago, and it won’t be long before the kitchen is also, we make an entire year of Bloody Mary mix from the farm.” Bates is a strong supporter of the local food movement. “It’s important,” he said. “It supports small farmers, stimulates local economies, makes people more aware of where their food comes from.” The hotel’s restaurants feature many Pennsylvania wines as well, including Pinnacle Ridge and Galen Glen. “We do winemakers dinners (on Fridays) and food and wine paring workshops, too,” Bates added. On Saturday, June 1, from 12 noon to 6 p.m., Hotel Fauchère will host the Milford Wine and Food Faire, outdoors behind the hotel, at the corner of Catharine Street and Blackberry Alley. The Hotel Fauchere, originally known as The French Hotel, first opened in 1852 as a summer hotel. It is named after Louis “Meet the Chef/Meet the Vintners” workshops will be held Fauchere, a French speaking master chef who immigrated Contributed photo indoors. Tickets cost $20 in advance and $30 on the day of from Switzerland and worked in New York City’s famous Chef de Cuisine, Loic Leperlier, in the event. Chef Christopher Bates Delmonico Restaurant before arriving in Milford. the Hotel Fauchere’s greenhouse.
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A RIVER REPORTER MAGAZINE • 27