Magazine www mercedes hcm vn july 2016

Page 1

THE BEST MAG FOR

RETRO RIDE CUSTOM 1293 SALOON

MINI FANS

SUMMER’S HERE! ULTRA-RARE CRAYFORD MkI MINI CONVERTIBLE

HOW TO:

FIT A DIGITA SMITHS SPEEDLO

BLOWN INTO SPACE STEEL-BODIED SPACEFRAME MONSTER WITH A-SERIES TURBO POWER ON THE JOB 250BHP TWIN-CAM BUILD

ARCHIVE SE7ENS AND MIGLIAS 1970-75

minimag.co.uk

COOPER STAR PETER O’TOOLE’S 1275 S

JULY 2016 ISSUE 252 PRINTED IN THE UK £4.50

TECH

ENGINE BLOCK REBUILD: WHAT WILL IT COST? TECH

KEITH CALVER’S Q&A


All prices include VAT @ 20% Stee i g & Bea Steering Bearings i gs

i, Mini Spares sponsor Mighty Min ven Racing Mini Miglia and Minini Se these race series

www.minispares.com

Neeww steering racks - L/H or R/H drive FAM7306/7 £59.23 MPPPi Sportspack type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £71.94 MPi Quick rack L/H or R/H C-AJJ1570/1 . . . . . . £78.00 Genuine track rod end GSJ1106 . . . . . . . . . . £11.42 Non genuine GSJ734MS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £4.80 Swivel pin kit genuine GSJ166 . . . . . . . . . . . £23.04 or our own which we recommend for any use. . . Mini Spares swivel pin kit GSJ166MS . . . . . . £7.70 Timken front wheel bearings GHK1140 . . . . . £49.14 Tried and tested non genuine front wheel bearings with sales of nearly 5,000 per year and no breakages - GHK1140MS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £13.80 Rear Timken GHK1805 modified - late cars . . £32.40 Non genuine rear bearing GHK1548MS . . . . £14.39

Suspension EACH Minispares Dampers £57.60 Minispares 28 point adjustables Gearbox gasket s 57 60 k set - 998cc AJM1250 AJM . . . . £12.84 £12 84 - front or rear . . . . . . .each £57.60 pper head gasket pper std 998cc head set AJM1250MS . . . . £9.30 Van rear . . . . . . . . . . .each £77.98 EACH er head gasket set - 1275cc AJM1140MS £20.34 GAZ Dampers £44.40 spares 1275 copper head gasket GEG300 . £15.54 Bump & rebound adjustable 1275 with BK450 Head gasket set AJM1140 . . £17.10 - front or rear . . . . . . .each £44.40 Engine block set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . from £11.65 bo Comp. Head Gasket C-STR1057 . . . . . . . £64.80 KYB/Kayaba Dampers metic Head Gasket C-AHT189 . . . . . . . . . . . . £96.22 Std premium damper .each £14.78 EACH ge bore manifold gasket C-AHT381 . . . . . . . £2.58 Super gas damper 25%+ £14.78 Engines con rocker cover gasket GUG705009EVO . . . . £9.60 upgrade . . . . . . . . . .each £25.33 KYB/Kayaba self-adj. Steering: Lightweight Large Three Year Guarantee Gaskets: gas shock . . . . . . . . . . . . . £29.40 Impeller Water Pump Visit our website for Set of 4 - available only from us at a special price Visit our website for GWP134EVO, GWP187EVO & G THE FULL PARTS T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MSSK3015) Part ( LISTING L 8 port head kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . from £1960.56 THE FULL PARTS 8 port head - larger valve - race . . . . . . . £2372.05 LISTING G-MAX Gas Dampers Subframes and Body Panels 1380cc built Up 1/2 engine by Bill Richards . . £1130.92 Gearboxes & Diffs Front or rear . . . . . . . .each £21.88 e AKM2 catalogue or website ebsite for our full Mega pistons 20/40/60 and 73.5 . . . . . . . . £236.69 Complete range of gearbox par Bilstein B4 Dampers ensive range. Full rangee of 73.5 EVO pistons 9cc dish C-STR311 . . . . . . £194.400 for road and race including our Front 19-221694 . . . . . . .£21.55 ndard and aftermarket Con Rod set Cooper S C-AEG624 . . . . . . . £864.00 famous EVO diffs and 5 speed subf bframe kits ki stocked k d £26.50 Rear 19-221700 . . . . . . . .£21.5 Con Rod set 1275cc 1.75” big end journals C-AEG626 £864.00 EEACH EACH gearboxes. Only RHP and top Bilstein B36 Dampers Camshaft Evolution001 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £68.40 £ 9.30 quality bearings stocked. Performance non adjustable £21.59 £6 Ultimate performance cam follower set C-AEG580 £31.20 The BEST crosspin diff av Front B36-0370 . . . . . . . .£69.300 £42.00 Oil pumps from £15.83 Slot Drive type from £112.50 C-AJJ3385 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear B36-0380 . . . . . . . . .£69.30 Spin-on oil filter (OE supplier) . . . . . . . . . . . . . £2.23 MSSSK3010 - All metal real solid Heavy duty helical gear kit C-ST EACH £193.78 Evolution Dampers Forged 1.5 rocker set C-AHT436. . . . . . . . . £133.33 moount kit for front subframe Competition steel baulk ring C-22A1741 . . .£23.99 £53.59 Top of the range 8 point adjustable Alloy 1.5 hi-lift rocker set C AHT446A £198 00 Rear S R Subframes bf Evo upgrade std baulk ring 22G2033EVO . .£13.99 743039 . . . . . . . . . .each £53.59 Duplex timing kit C-AJJ 0 eenuine rear subframe F Hi tech oil pick up pipe C-AHT54 . . . . . . . . .£27.00 21A1902 Mini Spares g eenuine KHB10024 1991 on . . . . . . . . . . £400.91 Suspension: profile engine mount £8 Gearboxes: Non o genuine rear subframe MS45D . . . . . £193.78 Visit our website for 21A1902MS Non-genu 0 Visit our website for Non genuine powder coated FAM6292MS . £225.00 THE FULL PARTS 21A1902ST threaded m 8 THE FULL PARTS Non gen rear subframe MS45LATE 1991on . . £202.00 LISTING Minimum stretch single r 4 LISTING Body & Subframe: Minimum stretch double 9 Geometry Kits £84.00 Clutches & Flywheels Visit our website for Complete Kit with Package Engines: THE FULL PARTS adjustable tie bars Price Flywheel puller for all types CE1 £21.788 LISTING and adjustable lower arms. With Master cylinder GMC1008 . .£45.500 Visit our website for correct performance bushes. THE FULL PARTS Standard diaphragm GCC103 . . . £266.100 Panels LISTING Order as MSSK3008 £84.00 full kit Orange diaphragm C-AEG481 . . £344.84 ep one of the Clutch lever arm Verto DAM5355MS . . from £18.28 Forget all the poly and uprated bushes when different lower arms or tie bars are fitted. What you need is an offset rubber bush t stocks of bestt Forg ged Cranks Clutch lever arm pre Verto 22A2204MS . . . . £24.00 to compensate with the extra distortion caused when correcting fitting body panels frooom m 3 piece AP clutch assbly pre Verto GCK100AF . . . . . . £55.36 the geometry on Minis. BMH using Rover toolin ing in Car set of lower arm bushes. . . . £12.26 Part No C-STR632 3 Piece Verto clutch pre-inj 180mm plate GCK151MS £116.42 and every good aftermaaarket rket FRONT REAR 3 Piece Verto clutch inj 190mm plate GCK152MS . . £116.99 supplier. All parts have bbeen een tried and tested by £45.18 £56.02 3 piece turbo kit GCK371AF . . . . . . . . . . . £108.00 our customers to their saaatisfaction tisfaction Verto 20% upgrade pressure, fits all C-AEG485 £64.15 Examples From bra AP Std. clutch plate, Turbo, light tune GCP204 . £32.18 Hi Lo ‘Dry’ Suspension Kits ‘A’ panel MK3 upgraded thickness. . . . . . . . . £12.85 nitrided g MiniSpares/AP road/rally 180mm Plate C-AHT595 180mm £64.54 Also improves suspension performance! ‘A’ panel MK3 budget £11.02 Genuine . . . . . £22.15 and bored holes for the big ends which reduces the reAP Racing road/rally clutch C-AHT596 180mm . . . . . . £88.78 Our HiLos are the original cast Ripspeed type, with Mini wing genuine . .£105.24 Non gen from £41.40 ciprocating weight of the crankshaft and does not neUltralight flywheel - standard EN8 . . . . . . . .£135.35 the patent No cast into them, and are the only RAC Front panel genuine £193.85 Non genuine . £61.02 cessitate drilling through the counterbalance webs. Ultralight flywheel - race EN24 . . . . . . . . . .£209.08 Homologated type to date. Narrow sill panel gen. £39.56 Non genuine . £13.42 Forgings are known to be stronger than billets as the Bonnet Mk2 genuine £182.77 Non gen . . . . £90.00 HiLo front kit. . .£45.18 HiLo rear kit. . . £56.02 grain pattern follows the shape of the webs and bearings Drivetrain: Bootlid Mk3 M genuine £204.94 Non gen . . . . £65.29 HiLo front & rear kit package price . £91 08 whereas the billet type is machined across the grain. Visit our website for Mk3 door hinge car set 1970 on. . . Suspension Cone For 1275cc blocks and made in 81.3mm and 86mm THE FULL PARTS MSSK017B . . . .£72.00 The only genuine cone springs on th stroke (Bare forging only £576.00) Crank . £1897.92 LISTING maarket made from original Rover Mirrors: toooling. Order as FAM3968 . . .£40.6 CV Joints Choose Genuine or Quality

Most of the participants they can trust and use our parts! Parts which torss titor peti mpe of our com e thos to r erio sup find they ’re you If all? it s - surely that say i Sparess! building to win, shop at Min

Gaskets

New!

or

it

epair K Swivel Pin R GSJ166 part number

£23.04

Want a cheaper alternative?

Mini Spares - LONDON Close to A1M & M25

Mini Spares approved part number

GSJ166MS

£7.56

Clearly identified MINI SPARES part number

• Cheaper Pr ice • Same Quali ty

Cranborne Industrial Estate, Cranborne Rd. Potters Bar. EN6 3JN Telephone: 01707 607700

Budget Dry Suspension C Budget car set of adjustable rid (not the same as Hilos) UK made Less knuckles C-STR644 . . . . . . . . . . . £51.96 With 4 knuckles C-STR644A . . . . . . . . . £57.25 Mini Spares - MIDLANDS

Sat-Nav: EN6 3JN

RT Original UNIPA

FROM

£49.33

Prices are correct at time of going to press, but are subject to change without notice. E&O.E.

Next to M5 (J2) 991 Wolverhampton Rd. Oldbury. W. Midlands. B69 4RJ Telephone : 0121 544 0011 e-mail:- sales@minispares.com

Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING

Original white backed mirror pair £36.00 Original black plastic mirror pair £30.62 Fully adjustable Torpedo Door Mirror Right hand or left hand . . . .each £25.78 Mini Spares - NORTH New Store Now Open Units 2E and 2G Harwood Road Northminster Business Park. York. Y026 6QU Telephone: 01423 881800

www.minispares.com

All part numbers used are unique and intellectual property of either Mini Spares Centre Ltd or Rover / X parts licensees.

Export Tel: (+44) 1707 607702

Sat-Nav: Y026 6QU

• Want the ? GENUINE part

We wil ill not sell the cheap, inferior CV joints so s readilyy available ailable elsewh elsewhere. We ONLY Y sell DEPENDABLE components 1275 and 1984 on - stamped GCV1013 . . . . £30.60 Early small 1.125" nut type pre 1984 GCV1105 . £30.60 Correct fitting inboard type GCV1102 . . . . . . £36.00 QL5000 Roller coupling kit . . . . . . . . . . pair £59.40

Sat-Nav: B69 4RJ

Alternative Parts


The World’s No1 Mini parts specialist - ever since 1975 !!! Fuell Systems

Exhausts

We ho stocks SU car and Fa fuel pu £333.24 £358.79 parts. Right hand tank 21A2183 . . . . . . . . . . . . . £333.24 £333 24 Left hand 5.5 gallon early tank ARA359 . . . £358.79 Genuine van tank 21A291 . . . . . . . . . . . . . £222.18 Van tank - s/steel version 21A291MS . . . . . £172.80 Genuine SU electric fuel pump AUF214 . . . . £71.56 Non gen electric fuel pump AUF214MS . . . . £57.60 Fuel pump only SPi - WFX100811. . . . . . . . . £65.28 Fuel pump only MPi - WFX100812 . . . . . . . . £53.76

Fuel Systems: Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING

Engine Electrics All new - outright £43.499 sale. Uprated Alternators with pulleys 16/17ACR 45 amp to 1980 . . £43.49 A127 70 amp 1980 -1996 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £60.00 Twin point std. alternator GNU2521 . . . . . . . £102.00 Hi torque starter, pre-eng. or inertia. . . . . . . £162.00 Pre-engaged starter motors . . . . . . . . . . . . . £93.81 Inertia early starter motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £86.40 Slim, high power, inertia starter motor. . . . . £225.00 Dynamo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £51.04 Original push button starter solenoid . . . . . . . £16.80 Printed circuits behind speedo - all types. . . . £61.23 Sports performance coil pre 1982 MSC105 . £18.60 Lumenition coil 1982 to 92 DLB111 . . . . . . . £30.00 Distributor shield - latest type . . . . . . . . . . . . £35.75

Electrics: Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING Co ooper S Distributor duction of the 40819 cooper S 23D utor but with more advance for economy rformance similar to MK3 S curves. with w quickfit points and uprated rotor G2140 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £45. NEG EARTH only 12G2140MS £58.55 25D distributor with vac. GEU930 . . . . . . . . . . . £45.00 998 45/59D distributors . . . . . . . . . . . from £41.99 1275 45/59D distributors . . . . . . . . . . . from £45.99 Electronic type less points . . . . . . . . . . from £56.6 Whole new distributor cheaper than conversion kits! Best quality distributors & parts stocked for road/rac Rose Petal Alloys The RRose Petal (John Cooper Design) as per Appendix K Historic Racing design. 4.75x10 in alloy inc. spacers + speciaal sleeve nuts . . . . . . . . £146.39

Wheels: Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING We are main dealers for Minilite and our own Rose Petal & Special Tuning wheel range. Stockists of Yokohama, Falken, Dunlop R7 and Nankang Tyres

3

EASY WAYS TO ORDER • Visit us • Telephone • On line

Cooling

Owners and stockists of RC40 systems.

• Flowbench tested and using proven optimum size 1.75”(1.625”) internal tubing for maximum efficiency and performance. • Even our mild steel versions have stainless steel tailpipes and inner baffle box pipes. Most competitors don’t even have these stainless internals in their ‘stainless steel’ silencers!

RC40 Range RC40 classic twin box system Single box system from cat back Single box system for van/estate . . . Twin box system from cat back . . . . . .

RC50 Millennium range

26 70.20

Designed for all classic and injection Minis A range of exhausts in stainless and mild steel including large bore outlets See AKM2 A Catalogue or website for full range DTM D large bore centre exit. . . . . . . . . . £142.92 nnal type standard mini exhaust systems made hhalves for ease of transportation and fitment. e silencer saloon GEX106 . . . . . . . . . . . £30.17 silencer s saloon GEX177 . . . . . . . . . . . . £39.60 silencer s van/ estate GEX155 . . . . . . . . . £51.82 iiflow Exhausts popular types stocked (inc. Van) Others available. Side exit 1.75”bore twin box C-ARA331 . . . . £97.20 Single box C-ARA331SB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £75.60 Centre exit twin box C-ARA332 . . . . . . . . . . £97.20 Single box C-ARA332SB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £75.60

We keep a super range of our ow radiators for all Minis PLUS radiator hoses - plain rubber or silicone including real Kevlar £117.60 stranded hoses unlike others Aluminium advertised on the market. Heater type rad. valves & matrix +operating cabl C-ARA5000 Radiators Std Mini 3 core radiator ARP2000 . . . . . . . . £57.5 £57 5 3 core rad. Historic racers ARP1106 . . . . . £108.0 Mini Spares unique 2 core radiator C-ARA4442 . £126.9 As above but with sender unit ‘91 on C-ARA4443 £131.40 Mini Spares orig. Larger capacity 4 core C-ARA4444 . £126.00 MPI all metal radiator GRD974 . . . . . . . . . . . £82.68 Mini Spares electric fan kit + sender C-ARA4401 £166.90

Cooling/Heater Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING Silicon Hose Sets RED, BLUE or BLACK - State colour when ordering Mk2 850/998/1100 to 1989 C-GRH001 . . £73.24 1275cc pre 1989 C-GRH002 . . . . . . . . . . £73.24 Mk1 + Clubman 998/1100 C-GRH03 . . . . £73.24 1275GT clubman C-GRH004 . . . . . . . . . . £73.24 SPI C-GRH005. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £126.67 MPI C-GRH006. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £187.20 Brakes

We keep a full range o road and race brake Exhausts: parts. See our website Cooper S 7.5”disc and EBC p s MS35 . . Pr £553.60 Visit our website for 8.4” disc and Mintex pads MSSK014 K014 . . . . Pr £29.32 £29 32 THE FULL PARTS LISTING 8.4”vented disc and pads MS39 . . . . . . . . Pr £42.35 S caliper Mini Spares R/H 27H4656MS . . . . £69-00 Manifolds S caliper Mini Spares L/H 27H4657MS . . . . £69-00 FROM £71.94 8.4” type Mini Spares caliper R/H 37H8128 . £65.17 We stock a whol 8.4” type Mini Spares caliper L/H 37H8129 . £65.17 range of exhaust Long centre S Disc conv. + Mini Spares caliper C-AJJ4028MS £430.42 inlet manifolds branch Freeflow manifold S Disc conv + AP caliper & Timken bearings . . £540.00 S brake disc shield set MSSK1400 R/H . . . . £21.90 Freeflow manifold for s 1.94 S brake disc shield set MSSK1401 L/H . . . . £21.90 LCB std bore for RC 1.94 Brakes: Millennium LCB std bore cast flanges C AEG364 . . £57.60 £57 ST alloy torquemaster inlet C-AHT770 . . . . . £35.40 Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING

Plastic Interior Mirrors As fitted from 1964 on Grey 24A1750 £29.40 White24A2110 £30.30 GREY

WHITE

£30.30

£29.40

Interior: Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING 4 piece door and rear trim panels Mk3 . . . .£129.49 9 piece trim kit Mk3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .£189.00 20 piece mk1/2 trim kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .£338.51 Inner membranes to protect door cards . .pair £9.56 Centre speedo dash cards - PVC . . . . . . . . .£24.45 Centre speedo dash cards - black painted . .£17.40 Mk3 headlinings - grey,white or black . . . . .£109.64 Headlining rails . . . . . . each £11.40 . . . .set £59.95 Sun visors, 1965 on - with mirror . . . . . . . .£36.11 Sun visors, 1965 on - plain . . . . . . . . . . . . . £33.34

The Largest Stocks of Mini Parts in the World

Mail Order - 01 707 607700

Brake Master Cylinders and Servos MK1/2 brake servo cast body 21A1293 . . . £216.00 Mk3 servo and non gen fitting kit SEN43 . . £144.00 Servo 1988 on GSM119 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £126.00 Single line plastic canister GMC171 . . . . . . . £44.40 Single line metal canister GMC171ORIGINAL £66.96 Single line Cooper S - just larger metal tank GMC172 £72.00 Diagonal split GMC167 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £102.00 Front to rear dual line –pre servo GMC227 . . £73.20 Front to rear dual line 1988 on GMC90376 . . £80.40 Rear brake pressure valve 21A1774 . . . . . . . £73.20 Brake limiter valve PDWA 1978 on.FAM7821 £87.60

range s to see the full Scan the QR code smart phone on your tablet ot

New catalogue available to order online!

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Bumper and Brightworrk All Mini Spares chrome and brightwork items are top q quality and made to fit correctly ctly.

£55.20

Mini Spares stainless steel bumper - fits BETTER than Rover original! . . . . . . . . . . . .£55.20 Bumper non-genuine s/steel DPB10165MS .£33.60 Bumper non-genuine chrome 14A6779MS £24.00 S/steel Mk1 overider/corner bar kit MSSK025 .£102.88 Inner/outer door moulding set Mk4> MSSK2104 £43.91 Headlamp Rings - Stainless steel 500929MS . . .£9.42 Headlamp Rings - Chrome-on-brass 17H5143 .£16.20 S/steel inner headlamp ring DHF100010SS . . . .£10.00 Fluted deluxe chrome wheel arch trim GZF105A £15.60 Flat standard chrome wheel arch trim GZF107A . .£7.80

Brightwork: Visit our website for THE FULL PARTS LISTING AS AN ORIGINAL SUPPLIER TO ROVER all our grilles and surrounds are manufactured by craftsmen to fit PROPERLY - as you would expect. Beware of inferior cheap t d ill s offered by some competitors

Mk 1 Classic Grilles All UK Made!

14A7299 Austin Mk1 wavy grille slat grille . . . . .£69.76 8B12507 Mk2/3 style also available . . . . . . . . .£69.00 24A198 Austin Cooper & “S” Mk1 -11 thin slats £68.71 24A2158 Morris Cooper &“S” Mk1 wide slats .£67.80 8B12506 Morris Cooper Mk1 stainless steel, with 6” spotlamp holes . . . . . . . . . . .£74.40

Mk 2/3 Grill Grilles All UK Made!

CZH4015MS Black ggrille Mk2/3 . . . . . . . . . . . .£43.32 GRILLE 03 B Black lack griille kit Mk2/3 with 3 surrounds, seatings and fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .£70.76 ALA6654MS Brightwork grille Mk2/3 . . . . . . . .£46.26 GRILLE02 Brightwork grille kit with 3 surrounds, seatings and fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .£74.81

Cooper Grilles ALA6669 Internal release, full slat, alloy, genuine, brightwork grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £45.11 GRILLE 05 as above with 3 surrounds/seatings and fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £66.71 ALA6668 External release alloy genuine brightwork grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £45.11 GRILLE 04 as above with 3 surrounds/seatings and fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £66.71

Mk2 Stainless Steel Grilles 8B12504 Heavier duty 430 automotive quality s/steel grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . £59.66 8B12502 As above, with spotlamp holes . . . . . £78.00

Grille Surround - Mk2 Grille 10 Grille surround kit . . . . . . . . . . .£38.56 Also available separately

Includes plastic seatings

FULL KIT £38.56

Please note that prices can change during the period that the magazines are printing check website for up-to-date prices

minispares.com

Visit the official MiniSpares.com website for pictures, downloads, catalogues, current prices & special deals

Mobile & tablet friendly

Mail Order also available direct from Harrogate Branch Call 01 423 881800 to order

All part numbers used are unique and intellectual property of either Mini Spares Centre Ltd or Rover / X parts licensees.


OUR NEW ADDRESS 9 Harris Road, Porte Marsh Industrial Estate, Calne, Wiltshire SN11 9PT Tel: 01249 721421 Fax: 01249 721316 Email: spares@somerfordmini.co.uk

SERVICE

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SPARES

www.somerfordmini.co.uk

NEW LOOK WEBSITE! More than a website, this is the most useful resource tool in the business. Over 12,500 parts fully illustrated and many are available to buy online, visit . . .

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RESTORATION

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Phone for postage rates, it’s CHEAPER than you think!

REFURBISHMENT

We have unrivalled knowledge and experience. With full workshop facilities and highly skilled staff, we can restore your Mini to the highest standards. We cater for all types and years of Minis and can make your dream come true!

OTHER SERVICES

Sadly every Mini succumbs to the dreaded rust. Our Refurbishment service could be the answer. Typically all ‘skin’ panels are replaced and the car receives an external respray. This will bring your Mini to it’s former glory and give it at least another 15 years of life!

We have a fully equipped workshop and carry over 9000 new parts. We have over 20 years experience and a very skilled, knowledgeable workforce. We are able to carry out any job here is a list of some of our services, please contact us with your requirement: accident repair, mechanical repair, servicing, MOT tests, modification & tuning and re-shells.

Somerford Mini also have a FULL workshop facilities. We are experts at restoring Minis and turn out some of the BEST IN THE COUNTRY. We also offer other services from general repairs and servicing to up-rated engines and suspensions. In fact we cater for anything connected with a Mini. We offer expert advice and professional honest service. Why not visit our ever expanding shop and workshops? ONE OF THE LARGEST STOCKISTS OF MINI PARTS IN THE WORLD, WITH OVER 12,500 PARTS AVAILABLE! 3 5

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(Unless otherwise stated)

2

1 2 3 6 4 12 5 25 11 8 6 10 7 13 14 8 31 9 10 27 11 26 16 12 9 13 15 1 4 16 15 16 MM denotes M. Machine 16 NG denotes Non Genuine 22 17 17 18 17 19 20 23 21 18 22 20 23 24 22 28 25 17 25 21 26 29 27 23 19 28 22 29 30 31

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30

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SUBFRAMES & COMPONENTS

GENUINE HERITAGE PANELS

7

Bonnet MK1, MK2 & MK3 £182.77 Front wing with or without side repeater £105.24 Full scuttle repair £138.48 A post stiffener - internal hinges only £26.03 A post boxing plate - MK1 & 2 (MM) / MK3 £14.29/£15.52 A post step repair - internal hinges £83.09 Rear wing MK3 / MK1 & 2 (MM) £1 16.32/£88.09 Backpanel - Screen down/Gutter down £221.56/£299.10 Full boot hinge panel £193.85 Inner ‘A’ panel (including scuttle closing panel) £68.69 Outer ‘A’ panel MK1 & 2 / MK3 £36.00/£22.15 Scuttle closing plate £13.30 Door - MK1 & 2 / MK3 £609.26/£470.80 Door skin - MK1 & 2 / MK3 £88.63/£88.56 Rear valance / closing plate (Partial/Full) £54.28/£28.44/£37.86 Stiffener-boot floor to arch / Rear bulkhead £19.94/£12.91 Companion bin closing plate / Inner sill stiffener £14.06/14.57 Heelboard - Full / Half £74.22/£36.00 Full wheel housing £89.72 Rear turret repair / Mudguard £51.50/£37.66 Full floor pan / Half floor (rod change) £227.04/£105.24 Floor sling shoe £7.58 Jacking point / Seat belt anchor £16.44/£7.66 Boot floor / Seat pan skin £193.85 Inner wing bare / comes with A post & ‘A’ panel £160.62/£204.94 MK1 & MK2 van pickup inner wings £118.52 Flitch repair panel (NG) £21.60 Radiator cowl / Vent panel £60.92/£47.36 Boot floor side repair / Rear repair (MM) £24.30/£21.60 RHD tank stand £14.57 Front panel Pre 1976 / Post 1976 (rubber mounted) £193.85 each Boot lid MK3 / MK1 £204.94/£332.33 Waist rail (below 1/4 light) Pre ‘70 / Post ‘70 £25.54/£46.96 Clubman wings / Front panel £1 1 7.31/£1 15.57 Clubman bonnet / Inner wing £1 77.1 1 /£194.98 Mini under wing liners (helps prevent corrosion) £87.00

1 2 3 4

Non Genuine rear subframe - Wet/Dry £217.50/£190.80 Genuine rear subframe Wet or Dry £420.95 Genuine front subframe. Pre ‘76/MPi £471.92/£448.63 Front subframe assembly includes all running gear, suspension, brakes, etc. £1903.68 5 Rear subframe assembly includes all running gear, suspension, brakes, etc. £1335.83 6 Rear subframe mount kit - bushes, pins, bolts, etc £49.96 £471.92 7 MK1 front subframes

£48.22/£80.08 From £8.28 £1.61/£1.13 £7.02/£7.80 £2.12 each/£4.27 each £2.28 each £41.1 1/£34.12 £13.25/£12.29 £4.75/£4.20/£4.74 £13.19/£14.58 £10.20/£19.80/£14.40 £48.72 each £20.64/£13.80/£19.30 From £80.54 From £8.59 £356.70/£161.82

CARBURATION Air filter - HS2 / HS4 / Injection Cooper £7.30/£5.16/£8.10 Carb rebuild kit - HS2 / HS4 std / HIF44 £42.88/£51.30/£50.02 Carb jets - Standard / Waxstat £17.59/£37.19 Heat shield kit - HS2 / HS4 Stainless £12.72 Throttle cable - HS / HIF £4.32/£9.19 Choke cable - MK1 & ‘S’ / 1969 & 1989 £14.40/£14.40/£7.70 Carb Needle / Spring £9.28/£6.25 Twin carb link pipe £10.08 Fuel pump - Manual N.Gen/Manual Gen/Electric N.Gen £21.60/£37.28/£69.60 Electric fuel pump mounting Bracket / Clamp £7.15/£6.76 S.U. pump banjo union £4.27 Fuel filter in-line (replacable element) £9.00 Fuel hose - Rubber / Braided (per metre) £5.06/£7.38 Front/rear copper fuel pipe - Saloon / Van & Estate £15.00/£28.37 Carb return spring - Standard / Twin carb £3.54/£2.56 Twin carb linkage kit £18.26 Fuel pump blanking plate £4.03

CLUTCH Clutch kit - Diaphragm / Verto / Injection £64.58/£135.83/£126.59 Slave cylinder - Diaphragm Gen/N.Gen/Verto Gen/N.Gen £28.64/£11.44/£45.44/£25.91 Flexi hose - Diaphragm / Verto £8.68/£4.74 Clutch cover - Standard / Orange / Grey £31.55/£38.28/£47.10 Master cylinder - Plastic tank / Tin tank £54.48/£82.62 Release bearing - Diaphragm / Verto £6.00/£7.80 Return spring £2.34

Radiator cowling upper & lower - ‘60-’74 /Cooper & ‘S’ ‘61-’74

£77.71 each

Standard Radiator - 3 Row/Comp 2 Row/MPi Oil cooler - 13 row Braided pipe kit - Mini / Clubman Thermostat / Blanking sleeve / Housing Radiator cowling rubber Radiator hoses to 1990 - Top / Bottom Top hose ‘S’ / GT Heater control valve MK1 / MK3 / MK4 Water pump Cooling fan - 2 Blade / 6 Blade Top radiator bracket - ‘S’ or GT Heater hose 1275 fan spacer Heater cable - MK1 / MK2 & MK3

£64.38/£91.78/£162.06 £42.62 £32.93/£37.13 £4.92/£8.82/£13.14 £5.82 £3.30/£8.64 £4.20/£6.74 £19.98/£17.56/£28.27 £23.48 £33.34/£41.06 £8.99 £3.54 per metre £9.38 £14.40/£1 1.94

ELECTRICAL Fuel sender Saloon/Estate £25.54/£25.54 Indicator switch MK1 / MK2 / MK3 £54.37/£30.60/£39.06 Fuse box - 2 Fuse / 4 Fuse £10.08/£8.82 Floor starter switch £29.58 Solenoid - Standard / Push button £10.20/£23.50 Floor mounted dip switch £19.92 Headlamp switch - MK1 / MK2 / MK3 £10.36/£8.83/£9.00 Battery cable - front to rear £41.42 Battery - Clamp / Rod £6.76/£1.91 Dynamo - Outright £63.00 Alternator - Outright From £45.90 Voltage regulator £22.07 Starter motor - Outright - Inertia/Pre-engaged £105.84/£84.40 Complete wiring looms From £214.20 Wiper wheelbox - MK1 / MK3 £51.66/£17.36 Washer pump - Electric / Manual £1 1.94/£22.92 Wiper park switch / Multi plug £13.20/£6.96 Wiper motor - twin speed £44.24 Indicator flasher unit MK1 / MK2 & 3 / 1991 onwards £5.99/£4.68/£10.36

IGNITION H.T. leads & plug caps - Period MK1 H.T. lead set - Various colours / MPi Electronic ignition kits - Aldon / Lumenition

£32.05 set £12.25/£15.32 £97.87/£144.42

3 4

5

£1 1.75 £8.20 £8.20 £22.31/£1 1.88 £5.40 £38.74/£13.86 £27.72 £233.29/£6.13 £7.02

7 8

6

FLOORING PANELS

7 8 2 10

9

6

11

5 1

4

12 3

Service Parts and Owners Manual DVD (All Models)

£29.99

Aldon competition dizzy Ignition switch MK1 & 2 / MK3 & MK4

COOLING

Rear number plate backing Rear number plate bracket 1/4 valence seam capping Rear 1/4 valence Genuine/Non Genuine Rear 1/4 valence closing plate Centre valence Genuine/Non Genuine Centre rear valence closing plate Van or Estate - Fuel tank / Fitting kit Rear valence seam capping

2

9

GENERAL RESTORATION PARTS & NEW PRODUCTS

BRAKES

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1

WHILST WE ENDEAVOUR TO SOURCE AND SELL THE BEST QUALITY PARTS AVAILABLE, WE REGRET WE DO NOT CATER FOR CONCOURSE CARS.

M. Cyl - single line (plastic tank) / Dual line Wheel cylinder - all types in stock M. Cyl seating gaskets - Large / Small Brake flexi hose - Front / Rear Rear brake Adjuster / Wedge Handbrake bellows Brake backplate - Front / Rear Brake shoes - Front / Rear Handbrake cables - Twin / Front / Rear to rear Brake drum - Standard / Spaced Brake disc - 8.4” / 7.5” / Vented Brake disc 997 / 998 Cooper Brake pads - ‘S’ / Late / Vented Complete brake pipe kit (copper/brass unions) Individual brake pipes Brake servo MK1 & MK2 / Brake servo kit MK3

VAN/ESTATE REAR VALENCE PANELS

£176.17 £10.36/£54.82

LIGHTING Clubman side indicator unit £68.74 Rear light - MK1 / MK2 / MK3 £44.81/£55.68/£47.76 Rear lens MK1 - Red / Amber / Screw kit £8.10/£6.05/£5.04 Rear lens MK2 & MK3 £21.76 Headlamp sealed beam unit £10.74 Quadoptic halogen headlamp kit RHD/LHD £40.30/£49.85 Steel headlamp - Bowl / Rubber gasket £10.80/£4.20 Plastic headlamp bowl (including rim, gasket & adjuster) £1 1.98 Headlamp bezel - Genuine / Non Genuine £17.15/£7.30 Front indicator unit - Genuine / Non Genuine £15.32/£7.14 ‘Works’ chrome boot mounted spot lamp £94.90 6” driving lamp set - Black / Chrome £33.17/£22.58 Stainless spotlamp bracket £7.20 Pick-up rear light - 1976 onwards £29.27 Rear number plate MK1 & 2 - Genuine / Non Genuine. £29.58/£8.02 MK3 Interior light / Interior light switch £9.90/£5.94

PLUGS/CONTACTS/CONDENSERS (All types in stock)

Coil - Standard/Ballast/Electronic/Sports Low tension lead (MK1 / MK2 25D) Distributor vacuum unit 25D / 45D Engine splash guard kit (includes clips, etc) Standard battery / Heavy duty Metal vacuum advance pipe with fuel trap

£19.03/£19.67/£19.30/£21.31 £5.34 £46.55 £35.75 £41.72/£59.16 £25.20

1 2 2 2 2 3 4 5 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Radius arm nipple shroud £7.20 Saloon outer sill - MK1 & 2, 4 flute (MM) £19.36 Saloon outer sill - MK3 Genuine / Non Genuine £41.54/£16.02 Van & Estate outer sill - MK1 & 2, 4 flute (MM) £19.44 Van & Estate outer sill - MK3 Genuine / Non Genuine £33.97/£18.36 Seat cross member - Pre 1974 / Post 1974 £56.17/£61.12 Seat cross member end repair £19.86 Companion bin - Saloon MK1,2,3 / Clubman Estate £31.98/£82.66 each Genuine companion bin MK3 onwards £37.86 Lower companion bin repair Saloon MK1,2,3/Club Estate £20.70/£18.72 ea Wide front to rear floor c/w outer sill and jacking point £135.29 Narrow front to rear floor c/w outer sill and jacking point £98.28 Full length inner sill - Saloon / Estate £28.36/£28.80 Battery cable cover £18.44 Complete floor assembly Heritage £636.96 Front foot well repair - Budget / Restoration £22.06/£35.93

Front subframe - Front mount / Rear mount Rubber suspension cone - Genuine Rod change mount Remote housing mount Engine mount manual Engine mount auto - RHD / LHD Engine tie bar kit - Standard / Up-rated Remote to gearbox - Front

£3.60/£5.70 £49.60 £4.38 £4.92 £3.05 £26.98/£12.34 £3.38/£7.66 £3.54

SUSPENSION/STEERING Radius arm rebuild kit £14.29 each Knuckle joint £4.08 each Swivel pin kit (service one hub) £10.73 Track rod end - Genuine / Non Genuine £13.92/£4.96 Steering rack (new) RHD / LHD £67.86/£74.30 Sports pack limited travel rack (Non Genuine) £81.35 Nylon steering column bush - Upper / Lower £3.00/£4.74 Timken front disc bearings - Genuine / Non Genuine £65.34/£14.04 Timken front drum bearings - Genuine / Non Genuine £68.26/£12.42 Timken rear bearings - Genuine / Non Genuine £42.89/£1 1.34 Drive flange ‘S’ / 8.4” / Drum £27.85/£30.48/£34.80 Shock absorber - Front & Rear £18.38 each Hydro pipe - Nylon / Copper £35.75/£33.78 Displacer dust cover £8.03 Top arm rebuild kit £1 1.70 per arm Front towing eye £10.20 MASSIVE SELECTION OF NUTS, BOLTS AND BODY HARDWARE

BODYSHELLS

(Range includes MK4, SPi, MPi) Sportspack (MK4, etc.) £6996.91 each Clubman Saloon £7272.37 each WE STOCK THE ENTIRE HERITAGE BODYSHELL RANGE. PLEASE CONTACT US WITH YOUR REQUIREMENTS.

RUBBER BUSHES/MOUNTINGS Rear subframe mounting - Large / Small Rear sub mounting pin Tie bar - Standard / Heavy duty Bottom arm - Standard / Heavy duty Rear shock top cap Top arm rebound buffer Front bump stop (not hydro) - 1 Bolt / 2 Bolt Bump stop (hydro) - Front / Rear Shock absorber - Front Bush / Rear Top Mount

£3.53/£1.14 £9.00 £1.08 each/£7.66 set of 4 £1.80 each/£6.00 set of 4 £4.08 £1.80 £7.15/£7.66 £7.20/£6.60 £2.98/£4.86

For your FREE copy of the CLASSIC MINI ACCESSORIES and/or BODY PANEL catalogue, please contact us by phone or email (see top of advert).

This advert only represents 5% of our stock, please phone for more parts and prices. ALL PRICES IN THE ADVERT INCLUDE VAT. E&OE - Prices correct at time of going to press. Subject to change without notice.


ISSUE: 252 Kelsey Media, Cudham Tithe Barn, Berrys Hill, Cudham, Kent, TN16 3AG ■ WEB: www.minimag.co.uk ■ FACEBOOK: www.facebook.com/future.minimagazine

EDITORIAL

Rick Jessop's turbo spacefamed monster.

■ EDITOR: Jeff Ruggles Email: jeff.ruggles@kelseymedia.co.uk ■ FEATURES WRITER: Stephen Colbran Email: info@stephencolbran.co.uk ■ ART EDITOR: John McAllister Email: hijohnmac@yahoo.com REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Matthew Barrington, Dan Bevis, Jeroen Booij, Ade Brannan, Keith Calver, Ryan Cowley, Pete Flanagan, Chris Frosin, Dan Furr, Caroline Gilbert, David Hale, Tim Harber, Gerard Hughes, Alex Kinsman, Martyn Collins, Martyn MorganJones, John Robinson Pratt, Marc Stretton, Chris Wallbank, Matt Woods

ADVERTISING Commercial Manager: Jeff Blackmore - jeff.blackmore@kelsey.co.uk Tel 01733 353357

PRODUCTION Production Supervisor: Joe Harris Email: joseph.harris@kelsey.co.uk Tel 01733 353382 Production Manager: Jackie Aubrey Email: jackie.aubrey@kelsey.co.uk

MANAGEMENT Managing Director: Phil Weeden Chief Executive: Steve Wright Chairman: Steve Annetts Finance Director: Joyce Parker-Sarioglu Retail Distribution Manager: Vicky Ophield & Emma Dublin Audience Development Manager: Andy Cotton Subscriptions Marketing Manager: Daniel Webb Brand Marketing Manager: Rebecca Gibson Events Manager: Kat Chappel Publishing Operations Manager: Charlotte Whittaker

SUBSCRIPTIONS 13 issues of Mini Magazine are published per annum UK annual subscription price: £58.50 Europe annual subscription price: £71.49 USA annual subscription price: £71.49 Rest of World annual subscription price: £79.99 UK subscription and back issue orderline: 0333 043 9848 Overseas subscription orderline: 0044 (0) 1959 543 747 Toll free USA subscription orderline: 1-888-777-0275 UK customer service team: 01959 543 747 Customer service email address: subs@kelsey.co.uk Customer service and subscription postal address: Mini Magazine Customer Service Team Kelsey Publishing Ltd, Cudham Tithe Barn, Berry's Hill Cudham, Kent, TN16 3AG, United Kingdom Find current subscription offers via: shop.kelsey.co.uk/mmg Buy back issues via: shop.kelsey.co.uk/mmgback Already a subscriber? Manage your subscription online: shop.kelsey.co.uk/myaccount www.kelseyshop.co.uk

CLASSIFIEDS Tel: 0906 802 0279 (premium rate line, operated by Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Calls cost 61p per minute from a BT landline; other networks and mobiles may vary. Lines open Monday-Friday, 10am-4pm) Email: cars@kelseyclassifieds.co.uk Address: Kelsey Classifieds c/o Classified Central Media, Central House, 4th Floor, 142 Central Street, London, EC1V 8AR Fax: 020 7216 8557

DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd, 2 East Poultry Avenue London, EC1A 9PT www.seymour.co.uk

PRINTING William Gibbons & Sons Ltd, Willenhall, West Midlands Kelsey Media 2016 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties. Kelsey Publishing Ltd uses a multi-layered privacy notice, giving you brief details about how we would like to use your personal information. For full details, visit www.kelsey.co.uk , or call 01959 543524. If you have any questions, please ask as submitting your details indicates your consent, until you choose otherwise, that we and our partners may contact you about products and services that will be of relevance to you via direct mail, phone, email or SMS. You can opt out at ANY time via email: data.controller@ kelsey.co.uk or 01959 543524. Mini Magazine is available for licensing worldwide. For more information, contact bruce@bruceawfordlicensing.com

H

ow many years have you spent restoring Minis? Most of us start out with a vision and boundless enthusiasm, but in some cases life stands in the way of swift progress and a project gets measured in years rather than months. Don't despair though, for this issue proves that there's light at the end of the tunnel. The build of Rick Jessop's amazing spaceframed cover car started out with a blaze of activity before stalling, but it's well and truly on track now almost a decade after it began. And we've got another example of this trend in Ashley Rice's cool custom City. Having started the rebuild at the age of 12 he found distractions easy to come by, but the finished result has surely been worth the nine-year wait. Remarkably, it's almost exactly as he pictured it all those years ago too! Staying with the long-term theme, we've also got two great examples of very special cars that have stayed with the same owners for long periods of time. Film and stage actor Peter O'Toole kept his '66 Cooper S right up until his death in 2013, while the Heil family's ultra-rare Crayford Mini Sprint has been in their possession since 1972. The O'Toole Cooper S has since been restored by Dave

I thought I'd try out Tim Harber's pre-'66 racer for size at Blyton Park.

Boswell, and is a stunning example of a period-tweaked MkI, as well as being in complete contrast to our wild cover car! Elsewhere in this issue you'll find all the usual great tech content, plus reports from the superb MkI Performance Action Day and Himley Hall. You can also read about another addition to my fleet on page 96. I'm hoping this one won't take years to complete, but with my track record, don't bet against it... Enjoy the mag.

Jeff Ruggles Editor, Mini Magazine

NEXT ISSUE ON SALE: June 24 2016

W W W. K E L S E Y.C O. U K

EMAIL

FACEBOOK

WEBSITE

minimag.ed@kelsey.co.uk

future.minimagazine

www.minimag.co.uk


CONTENTS July 2016 ISSUE: 252

16

Mini scene news

20

24

Early Mini action

FEATURES 8

OPEN ALL HOURS

The Heil family’s Crayford Mini Sprint is one of a handful of known examples.

Mini motorsport

44 ON THE JOB

Damaged by fire, Andrew Horne’s turbo beast is coming back faster – much faster!

8

50 STARTING YOUNG

Ashley Rice started his Mini project at the age of 12. Nine years on, it’s a real stunner.

58 TOTAL LIGHTWEIGHT

Rick Jessop’s Clubby looks amazing from the outside, but delve below the skin and it gets even more impressive...

68 STAGE-STRUCK

Formerly owned by actor Peter O’Toole, this period custom Cooper S is a real gem.

74 MINI 7 INTO THE ‘70s

The Mini 7 Racing Club’s second decade saw more success and the launch of a new formula – the wide-ached Miglias. Rare Crayford Mini

MINI SCENE 16 NEWS

58

Spaceframe Clubby

The latest stories from the world of Minis, plus updates from the thriving club scene.

20 MOTORSPORT

The latest Mini racing and rallying updates, including Se7ens and Miglias at Brands.

24 Mk1 ACTION DAY

An excellent mix of track action and cool classic Minis from Blyton Park.

28 BRITISH MINI DAY

Sunny skies greet Mini and MINI fans at Himley Hall for another great BMC event.

34 MINI COOPER DAY PREVIEW All you need to know ahead of the Mini Cooper Register’s Beaulieu spectacular.

36 EVENTS

Plan your 2016 Mini exploits with our comprehensive event diary.

38 YOUR MINIS

Three pages of cool Mini projects submitted by our readers.

FREE ADS in our Find your perfect partnerE 107 classified section. PAG

68 Ex-Peter O’Toole 12

75 S


Visit Mini Magazine online www.minimag.co.uk

38

Readers’ projects

EMAIL

FACEBOOK

minimag.ed@kelsey.co.uk

future.minimagazine

MINI TECH 80 HOW TO

WEBSITE www.minimag.co.uk

90

A Smiths digital speedo adds modern technology without losing that classic look. Fit one using our step-by-step guide.

84 ASK THE EXPERT

44

Our tech expert Keith Calver answers all your Mini technical queries.

88 PRODUCTS

A selection of all the latest goodies to lavish upon your beloved Mini.

90 CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Block rebuild costs

94

Keith looks at the parts required and likely costs incurred when rebuilding an A-Series engine block.

94 OUR MINIS

16-valve turbo

Keith can finally get started on his Mini City, Stephen breathes easier, Jeff buys himself yet another Mini, and Ryan gets the Mighty ready to race.

50

Staff Minis sagas

80

1293 custom City

74

‘70s Mini 7 action

Fit a digital centre speedo

Subscribe to Mini Magazine Save money with by selecting one of our subscription options. See page 114.


CRAYFORD MINI SPRINT

OPEN ALL

HOURS

8


CRAYFORD MINI SPRINT The Heil family’s rare Crayford Mini Sprint is one of just a handful of known examples, and has been in their care since 1972. Some 44 years on, it’s earning its keep as a wedding car.

T

Words Andrew Roberts Photography John Robinson Pratt

he name ‘Crayford Mini Sprint’ will probably confuse many people from the outset. We’re more used to the Mini Sprint moniker being applied to the cut-down, low-slung specials pioneered by Neville Trickett and co, while Crayford is better known for the 57 Wolseley Hornets it converted for a Heinz promotion back in 1966. None of that should detract from the appeal of the Heil family’s beautiful 1963 example though, which is one of a mere 21 survivors known to the Crayford

Convertible Car Club worldwide, and several of those are much later examples. Basking in the Devon sunshine, Sonia Heil’s Crayford looks every bit as hip and happening as it must have when it first entered an optimistic and exciting Britain back in the swinging ‘60s. And remarkably, it’s been in the Heil family since 1972. At that time Sonia needed a general family car for the school run and shopping work, and her husband Frank found a likely car in a second-hand car dealership in Egham. “I think it cost just £260,” says their son

9


The Heil’s Crayford is a full convertible, without the roll hoop seen on some of the later conversions from other manufacturers.

Lorenz. “Back then it probably seemed to be just another second-hand Austin Mini, although having the hood was very nice in warm weather.”

EARLY VISIONS

The vehicle that the family initially used as everyday transport was an early example of a Crayford Sprint. The Crayford business was founded by David McMullan, then a sales manager at Lambretta Trojan of Croydon, and Jeffrey Smith who was employed in the company’s research and development department. The two had collaborated on various projects, and during 1961 they worked in the evenings on a second-hand 1959 Mini supplied by Jeff’s brother-in-law, with the aim of creating the world’s first convertible Mini. By that summer their open-topped prototype was completed, and in 1962 Crayford Automotive Design Consultants was formed, with a joint investment of £20 and toolboxes owned by each partner. As a footnote, the name of the new firm had been inspired by their local telephone exchange. The Sprint was officially launched on June 3 1963, offering “all the merits of the Mini” with a convertible top that made it “as snug as the saloon when closed and a four seat sports car when opened.” Badging the standard car as a Sprint was a bit of misnomer because the engine was stock, but there were Cooper Sprint and S Sprint

10

versions for those who liked a bit more oomph. Crayford was clever if a little sexist with its marketing, with the advertising including the following gem: “For the enthusiasts, the Mini Cooper Sprint – the car to see off the sports cars and to let in the ‘birds’ with sun and fresh air.” The conversions gained BMC approval, which meant that the customer could retain their full new car warranty, and by 1964 there was a network of 16 ‘official’ Crayford Mini agents, including one in Jersey. Alternatively, a customer could have his existing Mini transformed into a drophead Stock 848cc engine is to be removed soon for a rebuild and repaint in the correct green.

The hood limits rearward vision for the vertically challenged.


CRAYFORD MINI SPRINT Simple boot area, with the famous drop-down numberplate.

Lorenz (left) and Frank, who found the car in ‘72.

McMullan and Smith’s home garages; the families having moved to Tatsfield near Westerham in Kent few years previously. A major rush order might have proved challenging as there were no real storage facilities for a large amount of base cars, but somehow the cars were turned around against the odds.

BULKING UP

To transform a Mini into a Sprint, Crayford removed most of the body above the waistline and then stiffened the chassis by welding in steel strips along the door sills and across the rear of the car just below the back seat, which meant sacrificing the storage space underneath the cushion. The scuttles, windscreen frame and pillars were 1964 psychological thriller Night Must Fall, all reinforced, while the standard doors were retained. Buyers were further offered a with orders coming in from everywhere. choice of special two-tone paint finishes to From 1965 on cars were also built under augment the standard BMC shades, in order licence by Birchwood Motors in Victoria, to further display their general hipness to Australia, and the next year saw the Heinz Hornets produced. Incredibly, this elaborate their neighbours. As well being attractive, the conversion is array of conversions was from a company also rather practical – the top was designed that was still essentially run from to be lowered from the driver’s seat, and is operated by unlatching two over-centre

“The company was still essentially run from McMullan and Smith’s home garages... ” for a very reasonable £129 – which is the case with the Heil’s car. “It was first registered in Lincolnshire, finished in Old English White, although by the time it joined our family the colour was red,” Lorenz reports. Early publicity was gained when Susan Hampshire drove a Crayford Cooper in the The car would have been fitted with separate side screens originally, but this revised hood helps avoid leaks.

Alloys and radial tyres to aid road holding.

11


CRAYFORD MINI SPRINT TECH SPEC

Early silver-faced single dial inside.

The stock steering wheel is still fitted, too.

BODY Austin Seven converted into Crayford Mini Sprint in c1963, modified and strengthened body, restored with all new panels. Paint: Tartan Red. ENGINE Original 848cc A-Series with 1.25-inch SU carburettor and standard exhaust, system negative earth conversion with alternator, aluminium rocker cover. TRANSMISSION Original four-speed, threesynchro gearbox with ‘magic-wand’ gear lever. SUSPENSION Factory rubber cone set-up with telescopic dampers. BRAKES Original drums all round. WHEELS AND TYRES 5x10-inch Minilite replicas with Falken 165/70x10 radial tyres. INTERIOR Original red vinyl trim with rubber mats in place of carpets, electric washer pump.

Wavy grille with overriders and corner bars.

“I’ve done four or five weddings with the Mini now, and it’s really popular...”

catches hidden by the sun visors and then lifting the central handle. The rear window in the Vynide hood, meanwhile, is as large as the screen in the saloon. Crayford claimed ‘all round vision’ as a major sales feature with the hood lowered. In practice though, the folded roof makes reversing quite a challenge for the shorter motorist as it occupies a fair amount of the rear of the car. “Demisting is not a real problem with the roof up, as air enters the car from so many different places!” jokes Lorenz. The cabin is typical early Mini DeLuxe, although the carpeting has been replaced by rubber mats. “We could’ve left the carpets and underlay in, but they get wet and rot, and that’s when your floorpan also rots,” he adds. “The other option is to only use it in the dry, but I do live in Devon..”

DAILY DRIVER

The Heil’s Mini Sprint was regularly used for domestic duties throughout the 1970s and early 1980s. “I used to go to primary school in it, and I passed my test in it at 17, in the pouring rain with a grumpy examiner,” says Lorenz. “That was with no seatbelts, which he wasn’t very happy about! It was on the road until around 16 years ago

12

when it was taken apart, before being recommissioned a couple of years later and put back on the road again.” But just a fortnight later, disaster struck. “My mother was using the car and it got hit by a drunk driver,” Lorenz reports. “The insurance company wanted to write it off, but we knew how rare a car it was and besides, it was now part of the family, so we bought it back. A friend of my father’s had a bodyshop in Hampshire, so they both stripped it down and worked together on it for the next couple of years. It was straightened out on a jig, and anything that needed doing was done during evenings and weekends. It was shot-blasted and came back a bit like a teabag, so it was all re-welded and repainted properly from the ground up again. It’s been pretty much rust free since then. We would like to take the engine out soon though as it’s due a rebuild, and we’re not too happy with the green colour – it should of course be olive green.” Despite the extensive nature of the work, any changes have been kept to a minimum. The car currently wears Minilite replicas and wider Falken tyres, but other than an alloy rocker cover, an alternator conversion and a switch to negative earth, the only other change of note is to the hood. “It did have side screens originally, which we do still have the frames for, but the design was prone to leaks. So we had a more modern hood designed using the original frame, which also could do with a repaint soon.” Today the car serves as a fun summer cruiser, as well as transporting lucky brides

for the family business, Devon County Wedding Cars, where it joins a couple of Bentleys, a Morris Minor, a Jensen-Healey and an Austin A40 Farina. “We started the company two years ago now,” says Lorenz. “I’ve done four or five weddings with the Mini, and it’s really popular. One couple even found us from Bristol and booked it for their wedding day in Devon, and it’s fair to say it attracts an awful lot of attention.”

STANDING ALONE

After experiencing the Heil’s Crayford, it’s tempting to speculate on the ‘what ifs’ – namely, could the British Motor Corporation have put a similar convertible into full-scale production? It could have carved a new marketing niche as such a Mini would have been virtually no domestic Rubber mats help to avoid damp floorpans.


Red trim in a red car may sound like a little too much on paper, but it works brilliantly in a summer cruiser like this.

rivals. The Triumph Herald and Morris Minor dropheads were much larger and neither the Spitfire nor the Sprite/Midget pretended to offer a rear seat. However, management might have plausibly argued that the British motor industry began to abandon the open-topped four-seater tourer market after the late 1950s. There were also the problems of making a convertible version of a monocoque car, and so BMC may have regarded the complexities of building a Mini along the lines of the Sprint as unfeasible. In addition, the cost of manufacture would have inevitably been high and there is a real possibility that a factory-made soft-top would prove more expensive to buy than the £690 Sprint. Thus, the logical response was to leave this work to such firms as Crayford Engineering, and the Westerham concern responded by managing to keep the asking price of their Mini conversions within reasonable limits. “By far the cheapest Crayford convertible is still the Mini, which costs £750,” noted Motor magazine back in 1969, with Crayford continuing to offer conversions on the MkII model. The same happened with the Mk3, and Crayford also went on to make a drophead version of the Clubman, called the ‘Mini Cameo’. One of the company’s last major conversion before they began to concentrate on all-terrain vehicles was the Ford Cortina Mk5, and in 1985 Jeff Smith died in a motorcycle accident. David McMullan soldiered on for another two years, but sold the business in 1987. It still exists now, albeit concentrating on 4x4s and hovercrafts from

Crayford’s Mini Sprint was a pioneer for the opentopped four-seaters that are commonplace today.

its new base in St Albans. Six years later after the sale, the factory did finally put its own Mini Cabriolet into production, inspired by the plush Lamm special edition of 1991. But though soughtafter and now very valuable, the Rover version lacks the simple charm and aesthetics of the Crayford Sprint. BMW also went on to produce its own convertible version of the MINI, and it’s this car which has arguably thrust the four-seater convertible right into the mainstream. With this is mind, Jeff and David should be saluted for their vision and application back in 1961, when they ignored the worries

of a declining market and set about producing a unique Mini with a wideranging appeal. The Heil’s stunning red Crayford Mini Sprint is a beautiful reminder of that vision.

THANKS TO: Frank, Sonia Heil and Lorenz Heil of Devon County Wedding Cars – www. devoncountyweddingcars.co.uk The Crayford Convertible Car Club – www. crayfordconvertibleclub.com

13


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HRCR Mini Sport Mini Challenge A record 20 Minis entered the latest round, Dixies Historic Challenge. Everyone was struggling for tyre choices due to the weather conditions. Clive King / Aton Bird had an excellent result in the Mini Sport backed Mini being first Historic Mini home taking 25th overall. Pushing all day long and finishing 6 places higher then second mini Adrian Kermode / Maurice Beckett. Shane Gamble / Bob Ward came in joint third only 11 seconds behind finishing their first event of the season. Jim Brindle having finish the R.A.C.E Motorsport car early in the week after extensive damage from the AGBO Stages with co driver Darren Meadows shared 3rd place. Eric Davies / Russell Joseph suffered wiper failure took 4th place, Peter Horsborough / Graham Carter in the Mini Spares Mini suffered engine power issues all day with no top end speed and then discovering why it was handling badly once he got home due to the hydrolastic suspension failing on the left hand side of the car. minisportminicup MiniSportLtd

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Rear Hub - Mini & Cooper £37 Outer CV Joint - Disc type £31 Inner CV Joint £34 Front Wheel Bearing Kit from £13 Rear Wheel Bearing Kit from £14 Steering & Suspension Rubber Suspension Cone £41 Top Suspension Arm Repair Kit £15 Tie Rod - Front Standard £14 Swivel Ball Joint Kit per side £8 Radius Arm Repair Kit £10 Steering Track Rod Ends £10 Oil System Oil Filter - Spin On type £4 Oil Filter - Spin On - 1996 on £5 Oil Filler Cap - Black original £4 Oil Filler Cap - Red original £8

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Mini scene News

The car will have to cross the Gobi Dese

rt.

The Mini on the Sahara Challenge.

MINI TO COMPETE ON PEKING TO PARIS 1972 example set to take on 8500-mile endurance challenge as late entrant

T

his year’s Peking to Paris Motor Challenge, billed as the world’s toughest endurance rally for classic and vintage cars, will feature a Mini for the first time in the event’s history. The 1972 Austin Mini 1000 has been entered as a last minute replacement for Car 34 after Paul and Chris Hartfield’s pre-war Packard couldn’t be readied in time. Concerned for the Packard, Paul contacted Owen Turner from the Rover Centre, who he met on last year’s Sahara Challenge. Seeing how much work still needed to be done on the old American car,

Owen advised against taking it on the gruelling 36-day, 8500-mile event that journeys through extremely difficult terrain. Needing a car in a hurry to meet the shipping deadline, the best option was to buy the Mini Owen had prepared for himself for the 2015 Marrakesh event as well as Le Jog. “The Packard needed a lot of work still doing and would not have coped with the likes of Mongolia in its current condition,” said Owen. “It will be a real challenge for the Mini, especially the Gobi Desert, but at least you can fix it fast and get moving again.” The Mini 1000 was fitted with a 1300

IT’S A MINI CELEBRATION

engine and rebuilt into a new bodyshell before being repainted, with the complete restoration completed in a mere two weeks. It will join 110 other pre-’77 classics, 50 of them pre-1942, at Great Wall of China start point in Beijing on June 12 – the biggest number of entrants yet. This will be the sixth running of the event, which will see competitors cross 11 countries, including Mongolia’s Gobi Desert, Russia and Belarus, before entering Europe to reach the finish line in the centre of Paris on Sunday July 17. For more detail and the latest updates, visit www.endurorally.com Plant Oxford workers with a pair of R50 MINIs.

Plant Oxford marks 15 years of MINI production

■ Plant Oxford marked 15 years since the first new MINIs rolled off the production line with a special celebration on April 26. More than 2.5 million MINIs have been built in Oxford since 2001, with the three million milestone expected to be hit this year. The first generation MINI was voted ‘Car of the Year’ in 2001 by Auto Express, and nearly 40,000 MINIs examples were sold worldwide in that first year. By 2015 this number had risen to nearly 340,000, with more than 63,000 sold to customers in the UK – the highest since the brand’s launch. The first MINIs – which were registered with ‘Y’ prefix numberplates – are now considered by many enthusiasts to be modern classics, with the British Mini Club hosting a special display of first generation cars at its recent Mini Day on May 8.

16

MINI enthusiast Tanya Field, who together with husband Jason is well known for her collection of classic Minis, is working to set up a new club – Y REGister – to bring together owners of MINIs made in Oxford in 2001.“The first MINIs are 15 years old and are now becoming modern

classics and are increasingly collectable,” said Tanya. “The creation of the Y REGister shows the growing interest in these MINIs and the heritage of the modern MINI. As someone who’s passionate about the plant’s heritage, this is something that’s really important to me.”


News

NEWS

NEWTON’S COOPER S

SHORTS

Founder’s Mini put up for sale ■ An iconic Mini Cooper S used by Newton

Commercial for prototype products, catalogues, fitting instructions and website photos is being offered for sale. The founder of the Suffolk-based trim company, Richard Newton, purchased this car in 1979 and had it rebuilt into a brand new bodyshell in 1983. Mechanically, this car is original save for a conversion to dry suspension, with the engine rebuilt and fully balanced in 1982. The car was also recently repainted in the colours of the German Wooding Hamburg racing team that Richard managed in the early 1970s. The interior trim is obviously of Newton Commercial design, with replica reclining front seats. The car was well known on the show calendar in Newton Commercial’s early years, but in Richard’s words it now “needs driving and using.” He hopes the car will be sold to an enthusiast who will appreciate its importance. It’s priced at £19,995, and Newton Commercial can be reached on 01728 832810. Richard’s cool Cooper S.

WIN A MINI

Pick up a ticket for our raffle car ■ One lucky Mini fan will get the chance to drive the Mini in the Park prize Mini away from the event on August 14, but don’t despair if you can’t make it to Santa Pod – there are plenty of other chances to buy a raffle ticket! As well as Mini in the Park, the car will appear at the National Mini Cooper Day at Beaulieu on June 12 and Mini World Live at Rockingham on July 10. You may have seen the car on the Mini Magazine stand at the London to Brighton Run, too. In addition, it will also appear at the Bromley Pageant of Motoring on June 5. Our publisher, Kelsey Media, has recently taken over the running of this multi-marque event, which takes place at Norman Park in Bromley. The Mini was imported from Italy to the UK in November last year, and subsequently converted to right-hand drive. It’s a good, honest example with just over 30,000 miles on the clock, and will surely be cherished by any Mini enthusiast. Several Minis still made the trip!

Photo Tanya Field

ITALIAN JOB AT THE PALACE

If you’re quick you may be able to catch a special Italian Job display at this year’s Motorsport at the Palace event on May 29-30. The Crystal Palace venue was used to film scenes for the iconic 1969 film, and the actual circuit was used by stunt drivers to practice the Mini Cooper jumping sequence, as well as being used for part of the car chase itself. In honour of the film, the three Italian Job Mini Hire cars owned by Greg Jenkins will be present on static display and will also take to the circuit for a parade lap at lunchtime each day. See www. motorsportat thepalace.co.uk

MINI DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

PRIDE OF LONGBRIDGE

Cancellation doesn’t stop the fun!

NEW CALVER ST SITE Superb online resource for Mini fans

■ Our resident tech guru Keith Calver has launched his new Calver ST website. As well as listing all of Keith’s product lines including cylinder heads, camshafts, ignition components and plenty more besides, the site is set to become one of the very best online resources for Mini enthusiasts. Included amongst the many categories is an extensive list of essential tools for the Mini DIYer, complete with images. Keith also shares his musings on topical technical issues in his ‘Calver’s Column’ section, and there’s a comprehensive library of technical articles set to cover all elements of the classic Mini, from cam timing to wheels and tyres. The content will continue to be developed over the coming months, especially the tech info section, which will be thoroughly updated. Visit www.calverst.com to check it out.

■ There was plenty of anticipation ahead of the annual Pride of Longbridge event this year, especially with it marking a decade since the sad collapse of MG Rover. Keen to mark this occasion and pay tribute to all the cars made at the Longbridge plant, a bumper turn-out of cars was expected at Cofton Park on April 16. Sadly, the weather threw a major spanner in the works early on Saturday morning, resulting in Cofton Park being ruled out as the venue. However, with so many cars already en route it swiftly relocated itself to other locations, including the Coventry Transport Museum, the Marks and Spencer car park in Longbridge and Lowhill Lane outside the plant, while the annual Cowley Convoy went ahead as planned, albeit with a last minute detour to the British Motor Museum. The two gatherings in Longbridge allowed the former factory workers and community to visit and chat to the enthusiasts, all accompanied by a very special atmosphere. Who would have thought a cancelled event could be such a success?

Have you ever been to a Mini show or event and not been able to find anything safe for you to eat? Mini Owners with Dietary Requirements has been set up in response to the lack of catering options (and lack of menu labelling) for vegetarians, vegans, sufferers of Coeliac Disease or non-Coeliac gluten intolerance and those with food allergies. The group hopes to provide feedback on experiences at shows and give info on catering arrangements for future events. Find the group on Facebook.

17



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Motorsport

In association with

RACE

Davies (right) won both Se7en races at Brands.

RESULTS BRANDS HATCH APRIL 17 MINI SE7ENS Round 3

1 Ashley Davies 2 Max Hunter 3 Spencer Wanstall

Round 4

1 Ashley Davies 2 Max Hunter 3 Andrew Deviny

MINI MIGLIAS Round 3

1 Shayne Deegan 2 Kane Astin 3 Rupert Deeth

Round 4

1 Bill Sollis 2 Rupert Deeth 3 Kane Astin

Photography Matthew Barrington

GOLDEN START

start to lead ahead of Graeme Davis, with Spencer Wanstall and Max Hunter battling hard behind. Davies led from Hunter until victory. to route en Shayne Deegan lap six, but the Welshman was in no mood to settle for Each race would start with a 10 second second and took the lead again on lap nine, delay between the different classes, helping holding it until the chequered flag. Hunter to avoid the faster Se7ens tripping up over crossed the line in second, with Spencer slower Miglias into the first couple of corners. Wanstall edging out Graeme Davis for third. The first race saw Deegan lead the Miglia field Gather Hunt and Robert Pearson completed into Paddock Hill Bend, building a healthy the top six. advantage over current champion Kane Astin Shayne Deegan had handbrake issues on and Aaron Smith. By lap three Rupert Deeth the grid in race two and would retire, leaving had found a way past Smith for third, and on Aaron Smith to head the field ahead of Bill lap six the returning Bill Sollis edged past Dan Sollis and Kane Astin. Sollis was on a charge, Wheeler into fifth. At the flag Deegan won his and took an early lead as he passed Astin, with first championship race by a considerable Smith following suit shortly after. Behind, 9.409-second margin from Astin, with Deeth Deeth managed to get past Peacock on lap finishing in third. Smith had to settle for three, with Astin then getting ahead of Smith fourth, with Sollis and Colin Peacock making for second place and Deeth further relegating up the top six. the number 21 Miglia into fourth. Deeth was In the Se7ens, Ashley Davies got the better past Astin and up into second by lap seven, but Sollis remained ahead to take the first victory of his 2016 comeback. Deeth finished second, with Astin in third and Smith in fourth. Hunter topped the Mini Se7en field as they raced into Paddock, with Davies, Davis and Andrew Deviny making up the lead quartet. Davies took the lead on lap four, with Deviny up into third ahead of Davis. The order would remain the same at the flag, with Davies taking his second victory of the weekend and Hunter once again runner-up. Deviny took third, while Davis, Darren Thomas and Charlie Budd completed the top six. Despite missing out on the win Max Hunter did manage to break the Mini Se7en lap record Max Hunter and Ashley Davies for the GP circuit, a feat also achieved by battled hard in both races. Shayne Deegan in the Miglias.

Deegan, Sollis and Davies take the plaudits at Brands Hatch.

W

ith the opening championship rounds at Castle Combe abandoned due to a waterlogged circuit, the Mini 7 Racing Club’s 50th Anniversary season kicked off on the circuit where it all began half a century ago – Brands Hatch. A pair of races on the full Grand Prix track saw a mixed grid of both Se7ens and Miglias head into battle on April 17. An impressive 48 cars were out for qualifying, including Stockhatch champion Shayne Deegan, who took to the wheel of the famous Pete Baldwin Miglia having won the 50 Plate series at Snetterton last November. Impressively, Deegan took pole position for both Miglia races, with Max Hunter and Ashley Davies sharing the front row for both the Mini Se7en encounters.

20


In association with

Motorsport

MAIDEN CSCC WIN FOR FIRE FIGHTERS Mini beats more powerful rivals to score a memorable outright victory on a very wet Snetterton 300 circuit.

T

he Fire Fighters Charity Race Team saw its Mini, named Cooper, take its first outright win in the Classic Sports Car Club series. Competing in the Adams & Page Swinging Sixties race, the Mini finished ahead of its more powerful rivals in very wet conditions at Snetterton on April 9. Without as much sponsorship as least year, getting the car to the race was a real challenge, but the team was determined to do so for those who had put up money and worked hard to ensure it could take part. David Franks and Kyle Ward took on the responsibilities at the Norfolk circuit, with David qualifying 13th out of 32 cars despite a spin on his flying lap. The race began with a rolling start, and

David had already gained a couple of positions by the time he reached the first corner. The Mini’s Bill Richards engine and KAD gearbox helped him to power into eighth by the end of lap one, and he was as high as second in class ahead of the pit stop. After a fairly good stop, David found himself in first place with three laps remaining. He continued to push hard, and managed to edge out a BMW 2002ti by just two seconds at the flag. The team was delighted to score such an impressive victory, but with an outright winner’s 30-second penalty for the rest of the season now triggered, the team will have to work even harder from now on. Follow its exploits by searching for ‘Fire Fighters Race Team’ on Facebook.

The Fire Fighters Racing Team, David, Kyle, Briony and Andy.

MINIS ENJOY THE RAIN IN WALES

Bumper turn out for HRCR Mini Sport Mini Challenge second round.

A

record 20 Minis were entered as the Clive King and Anton Bird latest round of the HRCR Mini Sport Mini on their way to a class win. Challenge took place as part of the Dixies Historic Challenge in Wales on May 1. Held on the military ranges just outside Sennybridge in the Brecon Beacons, the event consisted of 40-plus stage miles, with the 12 stages taken two at the time and a quick service in between. With the weather forecast promising rain, the 20 crews all managed to make it through scrutineering just before the heavens opened. The wind and rain made the stages extremely slippery, with the situation not helped by oil being dropped on one of the stages by a preceding car. Words and Photography Start Line Media Nevertheless, Clive King and Anton Bird had an excellent result in their Mini Sportbacked steed, becoming the first Historic Mini ahead of Mini Challenge runners-up Adrian home and finishing in 25th overall, six places Kermode and Maurice Beckett. Shane Gamble and Bob Ward came in 11 seconds behind to take joint third with Jim Brindle and Darren Meadows, Jim having only finished repairing his car earlier that week following extensive damage sustained during the previous round. Behind, Eric Davies and Russell Joseph suffered wiper failure but still took fourth place, and though Peter Horsborough and Graham Carter had engine power issues all day and fell victim to broken Hydrolastic suspension on one side of their car, they managed fifth. Peter Ellerby and Simon Boukt Adrian Kermode and Maurice Beckett. came home in sixth place and 39th overall,

with Jonathan and Nigel the top-placed Open Class Mini in 40th overall. Elsewhere, Ken Pryce and Don James were another crew to suffer a misfire during the day, causing them to lose a considerable amount of time. A change of distributor did not fix the issue, which later turned out to be a broken rocker, and they had to limp through the last stages of the day. Andrew O’Hanlon and Ryan Taylor event got off to a very bad start when their accelerator cable snapped on the first junction on the first stage. They managed to fix it, but a misfire thwarted their attempt to claim the lost time back and they finished in 46th overall.

21




EVENT REPORT

MKI PERFORMANCE Minis and derivatives got ACTION DAY Classic together for a great weekend of track Words Jeff Ruggles Photography Stephen Colbran

fun at Blyton Park, and there was plenty to see away from the track too.

T

here really is nothing in the Mini event calendar quite like the MkI Performance Action Day. For the third consecutive year, an incredible array of classic Minis and derivatives gathered at the Blyton Park Driving Centre in North Lincolnshire on April 31-May 1 for two days of unique retro-themed fun, both on and off the track. Helping this event to stand alone is its superb, relaxed atmosphere. You won’t find club stands or a concours competition, but you will find a host of great cars, top Mini

personalities, track action and plenty of like-minded enthusiasts. It’s a real back-tobasics affair where Minis that would usually be deemed too precious are put through their paces, just as they were in the heyday. And because this event fills a void in terms of its northern location, plenty of interesting cars make the trip that you don’t see at the southern events. For the second year running, the event was held over two days. Saturday saw drivers take to the simpler ‘novice’ layout, with a more complex arrangement on the Sunday.

Roger Hunt in Adrian Kermode’s Mini Sprint.

24

Aside from a few short downpours the track remained dry and accident free. Free lunchtime parades were also provided for cars not booked in for track time, and these allowed us to have a go in Tim Harber’s pre-’66 racer and hitch a ride in Pete Flanagan’s ex-Janspeed Unipower GT. Both were superb experiences! Of course, it’s not all about whizzing round the track. Those hunting for spares or rare goodies could take advantage of several trade stands including Catmint and Min-e-bitz, while Joroen Booij was selling copies of his new George Askew’s Clubman lost a wheel out on the circuit.

Maximum Mini 3 book, hot off the press. There were a number of ‘plastic fantastics’ present to mark the occasion too, including a couple of Jems, a pair of Cox GTMs, a Nimbus and a Marcos. Some other great cars were present too, including a final appearance for Paul Bates’ ex-Works car, originally registered GRX 309D, before it gets a sympathetic restoration. Ian Gray’s supercharged Pick-up stood out amongst the some very special early cars, and we were particularly taken by Steve Murphy and Dean Williams’ early MKIs, both


EVENT REPORT

Cool Shorrock supercharged machine caught our eye.

Pete Henry won Car of the Event.

sold new in Cumbria. The event doesn’t just cater for early cars though, with a number of ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s cars also taking part, from mild to wild. Although there was no Saturday evening talk this year, plenty of big names were present over the two days. These included rallycross legend ‘Jumpin’ Jeff Williamson and fellow driver Mike Partington. 1960s circuit racer Bill Needham brought his unique Coldwell twin-cam car along, while Warwick Banks, who won the 1964 European Saloon Car

Championship in a 970 S, presented the awards. The trophy presentation saw Andy Barrass win the Best Variant award for his lovely early Innocenti Mini-Minor, Guy Loveridge take Best Derivative with his Ogle SX1000 and Pete Henry take the coveted Car of the Event accolade with his box-fresh Mini Sprint. Stephen Reynolds’ rally-prepared 1960 Mini was awarded the trophy for Best Track Car, while ‘Spanner of the Day’ went to the unfortunate George Askew and his Clubman, which became an impromptu

Jeff Williamson’s Clubman.

Ian Gray’s early Pick-up receives some attention.

MkII S on the parade laps.

25


EVENT REPORT

Tim Ward’s lovely MkI looks great with its subtle period mods. Pete with his lovely Sprint.

three wheeler after the threads in his wheel nuts stripped while out on track. Fortunately he was soon back on the circuit! The only negative, if you can call it that, was one the organisers Pete Flanagan and Mark Forster could do nothing about. Freezing temperatures on the Saturday night made from some rather chilly campers, with the

weather typically preceding a heatwave during the following week! Nevertheless, it didn’t affect spirits on what was another excellent weekend. What’s more, the event raised over £1600 for Cancer Research UK, and with a Spingall steering wheel donated by Len Chandler yet to be auctioned, the final figure could top over £2000 – a superb effort!

Kevin Murray’s prototype Riley Elf.

26

George gets his ‘Spanner of the Day ‘award from Warwick Banks.

Track action was very exciting, but the drivers remained respectful of others.


EVENT REPORT

Dean’s modified MkI. Mini variants aplenty!

GRX 309D before its resto.

Jeff enjoying a passenger ride in Pete Flanagan’s Unipower.

Turbocharged 1275 GT was rapid out on the track.

The Coldwell Twin-cam. Ben and Patricia’s superb rally car.

Andy Barrass’ Innocenti.

27


EVENT REPORT

BRITISH MINI DAY Words and Photography Stephen Colbran

Sunshine and not a shower in sight for the British Mini Club’s annual Mini Day at Himley Hall on May 8.

W

ith thousands of Mini fans booked into the Belgian International Mini Meeting the following weekend, we weren’t expecting huge crowds at the British Mini Day, but unseasonably great weather attracted an impressive gathering. Really we shouldn’t have been surprised – the British Mini Club certainly knows how to put on a show, with plenty of traders, club stands and the very best concours Minis around. The show is held in the scenic grounds of a stately home, so once shopped-out, Mini fans grabbed a 99 and sat in the sun by the lake. It was a very pleasant way to spend a sunny

Sunday in the Midlands! The special display this year celebrated the recent 15th birthday of the MINI with a range of first generation cars lined up around the lake, from standard Ones to modified JCWs. Of course the original Mini made up a large majority of the attractions, however. A particular stand-out car for us was Sean Ashford’s recently completed MkI. He’s got the styling absolutely spot-on, with a timeless arch-less/Rose Petal combination, ’60s-style mods and a pastel paintjob. Sean was nowhere to be seen though; instead he lent the keys to Jeffrey Surrey from The Mini Centre, who’s done a large amount of the hard graft. Jeff Luke Billing was busy polishing up his intercooler pipes.

28

didn’t take home any prizes for the MkI, as it wasn’t in the concours, but joined the Stoke Orange Boxes Mini Club to win the coveted club stand award with a Willy Wonka theme. It turned out the orange-faced ones were oompa loompas, not sun burnt. Over in the concours we were wowed by impossibly clean examples of all types of Mini. The accolade of highest points scored went to Paul Smith’s lightly modified Mk3, two marks from perfection with 198. Wayne Brownhill, Francesca Billington and Sandra Britton were not far behind, with equally impressive high scores. It’s always good to see Minis that Tom and Andrew’s modified saloon looks as fresh as ever.

are used regularly competing in the concours as well, not just those that are wrapped up and trailered out. Also worth a mention was the 1959 Mini Register stand, which traditionally has some of the most historically interesting cars on display. Trevor Ripley brought along both his pre-production ‘Buck board’ Mini Moke and also a ’59 brought back from Portugal. He says the ’59 is one of the most original he’s seen to date, with its very early magnesium gearbox housing and transfer case still intact. It’s even got 1958 marked on the end of the coil, so you can’t beat that for a spot of early Mini intrigue!


EVENT REPORT

Tidy engine bay in Nathan Badger’s Russet Brown Mini.

Sean Ashford’s recentlycompleted MkI looks great.

£1000 cash was up for grabs in the prize draw.

Someone got their dates mixed up with the Minion Day.

Trevor Ripley’s ‘59 Mini from Portugal.

Funky custom dash.

29


EVENT REPORT

Stacey Hextall’s RWD beast has an inline-mounted Yamaha R1 engine.

Ross Thomas’ seven-port Mini.

The 1959 Mini Register was out in strong numbers.

Steve Moore took Car of the Show with his immaculate MINI GP. Midlands Mini Club went piratey for the day. Shiver me timbers!

30

Pre-production Moke.


R A C E E N G I N E S P E C I A L I S T S F O R O V E R 3 5 Y E A R S

sales @med-engineering.co.uk / www.med-engineering.co.uk Engine components

W E X P L O R E

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CABLES

CLUTCH

Part

Description

Price

Part

Description

Price

14A6740

MINI BOOTLID CABLE

£2.80

13H2934

MINI FLYWHEEL OIL SEAL

£2.34

21A1202

MINI SINGLE CARB CHOKE CABLE

£16.50

GMC1008

MINI MASTER CYLINDER CLUTCH 59-89

£47.10

21A2329

MINI CHOKE CABLE 68-87

£8.70

1G5999

RETURN SPRING PEDAL 53-58/MINOR/MINI

£2.34

24A2738

MINI HEATER CABLE 58-89

£8.70

GSY118

MINI CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER 83.94

£39.30

NAM7914

MINI CABLE THROTTLE 65

£5.10

GSY118Z

MINI CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPRO

£24.00

21A1204

MINI CABLE CHOKE TWIN CARB - COOPER/S MK1/2

£16.50

GSY110

CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER S&M 58-66/MINI 59-83/A11/1300

£28.20

SBF10027

MINI CHOKE CABLE 27 INCH - MINI 87 ONWARDS

£10.10

88G508

MINI FLYWHEEL LOCKING KEY 64-85 (DIAPHRAGM)

£9.04

SBB10186

MINI LHD SPI CABLE THROTTLE

£9.90

22A427

MINI CLUTCH PLUNGER STOP 58-96

£5.10

GVC1034

MINI REAR BRAKE CABLE - MINI 76 >

£5.10

GCK100AF

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY MINI 59-83

£51.00

GVC1035

MINI FRONT BRAKE CABLE - MINI 76 >

£3.30

GEX7046

MANIFOLD CLAMP S&M>64/MINI 63-85/MINOR

MANIFOLD & EXHAUSTS

COOLING GWP132

WATER PUMP S&M 58-67/MINI SMALL IMPELLOR

£15.90

£2.24

GTS104

THERMOSTAT DEG C MGB 62-80/S&M 58-79/TR6/TR8

£4.86

GEX7081

MINI CENTRE EXHAUST MOUNT 58-96

£1.80

GRC110

15PSI RADIATOR CAP BV8 73-76/MID 74-79/TR7/MINI

£3.90

GEX7661

MINI EXHAUST MOUNT MINI 5/92>/METRO MG TURBO

£3.78

12G2129

THICK FAN BLADE

£11.70

GEX7761

MINI CATALYST GASKET

£2.10

CHS2515

THERMO COVER STUD MGA/B 55>/S&M 63-72/MINI

£1.44

L61

MANIFLOW LCB Y PIECE

£34.80

53K402

HEATER TAP STUD S&M 64-74/MOGGI 61-71/MINI

£0.72

LST001A

MANIFLOW 1 3/4" TWIN BOX SIDE EXIT SYSTEM

£107.40

14A9988

MINI CABLE HEATER MINI MK1/2

£16.50

LST001B

MANIFLOW 1 3/4" TWIN BOX CENTRE EXIT SYSTEM

£107.94

GRD172

MINI RADIATOR 1300 MINI 92-96 SIDE MOUNTED TYPE

£75.30

LM004SIIR

MANIFLOW STAGE 2 LCB WITH FITTINGS

£107.40

GRH240

MINI LOWER RAD HOSE MINI >89 1275 >89/998 >92

£8.70

LM005

MANIFLOW LARGE BORE LCB

£162.84 13H6010

MINI LAMP GASKET - NO PLATE MINI 58-96

£4.50 £29.70

BADGES

SEALS

DAH100950MMM

MINI COOPER BOOTLID BADGE MINI 2000>

£14.10

PAM1014

MINI RH DOOR MOULDING MK3 >

DAH100920MMM

MINI COOPER SPORT BADGE

£12.30

PAM1015

MINI LH DOOR MOULDING MK3 >

£29.70

24A23

BADGE -MINI COOPER MKI AUSTIN

£7.56

13H2934

FLY WHEEL OIL SEAL

£2.34

14A6802

BADGE-AUSTIN MINI MKI

£7.92

ADU5738

MINI OIL SEAL DIFF/SHAFT 58-20

£0.85

CZH2717

BADGE - LEYLAND HOUSE S&M 70-74/MGB/MINI A PANEL

£6.24

DAM3022

MINI ROD GAITER GEARBOX CHANGE

£3.42

DAB101130

BADGE-ITALIAN JOB-BONNET MINI

£28.50

CGE10038

MINI RH DOOR SEAL CHECK ARM 86>

£5.10

CZH1305

BADGE-FRONT MINI MK3 MINI/COOPER S

£18.90

CGE10039

MINI RH DOOR SEAL CHECK ARM 86>

£5.10

CZH4153

BADGE-MINI CLUBMAN(L)

£14.10

CZH4052

MINI RH SEAL-CHECKSTRAP MINI UPTO VIN 324224

£2.94

CZH4154

BADGE-1275GT MINI RED/SILVER MINI 1275GT

£14.10

CZH4053

MINI LH SEAL-CHECKSTRAP MINI UPTO VIN 324224

£2.94

UJB002

BADGE-UNION JACK

£8.10 GXE7708

WIPER MOTOR 14W MINI 67-94/MGB 67-80/S&M 68-79

£45.00

13H222

MINI LH REAR LAMP 58-67

£46.50

520160A

WIPER PARK SWITCH 14W MGB 67-80/MID 74-79/MINI 70>

£12.30

13H223

MINI RH REAR LAMP 58-67

£46.50

37H7200

WHEELBOX WIPER MINI 71> END /SCIMITAR/HERALD

£15.30

13H6479

MINI RH REAR LAMP 67-71

£48.72

37H4836

WIPER MOTOR STRAP

£4.32

13H6480

MINI MKII LH REAR LAMP

£48.72

AAU1909

WIPER TUBE RACK 35IN S&M/TR5/6 SPIT/GT6/MINI/JAG

£18.90

XFB10082

MINI RH REAR LAMP 72-99

£42.84

13H4718

MOTOR WIPER PAD 67-97

£3.42

LAMPS

WIPERS

XFB10083

MINI LH REAR LAMP 72-99

£42.84

13H5629

WIPER ARM RHD MINI 58-76

£3.25

ADU3018

SIDE LAMP/FLASHER RH CLUBMAN

£74.10

37H7201

MINI WHEEL PLINTH KIT 67-96

£4.25

13H3471A

SEALED BEAM HEADLIGHT RHD WITH PILOT

£11.70

RTC202A

WIPER RACK 74-91/TR/MINOR/MG

£8.49

AFU3389

FLASHER LAMP AMBER

£6.06

LMG1051

TUDOR LABEL WASHER BOTTLE MGA/B/C >71/S&M>74/MINI/AH ALL

£2.19

5L1137

ENGINE EARTH CABLE MINI 76>

£6.90

13H5541

MINI HANDBRAKE GRIP

£1.74

AJM1112

RADIO AERIAL

£21.24

1G5999

RETURN SPRING PEDAL

£2.34

BHM7107

MINI STEERING LOCK ASSEMBLY

£71.70

FAM8356

HANDBRAKE LEVER GRIP LATE MINI

£5.10

C34770A

MINI NEGATIVE VOLTAGE STABILISER

£10.68

GDB105

BRAKE DRUM MINI 850-1000

£14.10

BMK1727

STARTER SOLENOID MGB >67/S&M >75 /MINI MKII/TR5

£9.78

GDB106

BRAKE DRUM MINI COOPER MK1/2 COOPER S

£14.70

BMK1539A

VOLTAGE STABILISER JAG/MINI CLUBMAN NEG EARTH

£22.50

GBS733

MINI FRONT BRAKE SHOES

£12.30

DLB105

LUCAS SPORT IGN COIL

£21.30

GBH170

MINI FRONT BRAKE HOSE MINI 67-84 DRUM

£5.10

GXE4405

MOTOR STARTER S&M 58-79/SPIT 64-80/MGA 55-62

£57.60

GPR104A

MINI PEDAL PAD (RUBBER) >76(2REQ) MINI 76>(1REQ)

£1.17

LUSSB106

BATTERY SWITCH ISOLATOR

£11.70

GPR107A

MINI PEDAL PAD (RUBBER) MINI 76-90

£1.02

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£6.60

SZU10001

MINI PEDAL PAD (RUBBER) 90>

£2.34

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EVENT PREVIEW

Mini Cooper Day Beaulieu Motor Museum

The Mini Cooper Register hosts its 30th National Mini Cooper Day.

A THREE-WAY CELEBRATION

A

date in the diary for every Mini and MINI enthusiast has to be Sunday June 12 and the Mini Cooper Register’s ever-popular National Mini Cooper day, which takes place at the Beaulieu Motor Museum in the heart of the New Forest. “The focus of this year’s 30th anniversary show will have three principle themes,” says event organiser, Tony Salter. “The first is a joint celebration of the modern MINI R50 models, namely the Cooper and Cooper S, as well as MINI One, since they will all have been in production for 15 years this summer. So, we will have a great selection of these models in a special display area to mark this milestone. “Then our second theme will be an appreciation of the commercial Mini variants including Mini vans and Pick-ups both in standard and modified forms. These often unappreciated and hard worked vehicles are now more sought after then ever and frequently require major restoration work to bring them back to their former glory. “Lastly, making a special appearance in the arena, there will be a small but select group of very rare Broadspeed converted Minis. These cars are among the most attractive of the many Mini-based conversions created over the past decades and this year the Broadspeed Minis celebrate their 50th anniversary.” “Of course we will have lots of other Minis and MINIs present at the show too, with cars ranging from the earliest MkI Coopers to the rarest ex-Works Competition cars and so many interesting Mini variants inbetween. “All this makes Beaulieu the place to be on June 12 – see you there!”

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SUNDAY JUNE 12

£9.75 adult / £5 children, (All cars. Until June 8 for advance tickets). £12.50 adult / £6 children Mini / MINI drivers (after ticket deadline / on the gate) £15 adult / £6 children (after ticket deadline / on the gate) Book via www.minicooper.org


CONCOURS ENTRIES

TICKETS TO THE SHOW

The concours competition, probably one of the best ones for Minis in the country, will, as usual, be held in the show’s central arena and promises to feature some of the best cars in the UK. John White and his team of judges will be searching for new winners of the nine class awards and the two major trophies. Entry for the concours can be made in advance or on the day. Go to www.minicooper.org and follow the Beaulieu link from there an entry form can be downloaded.

The good news is that the price of entry tickets has been kept at last year’s levels. Discounted advance tickets for the show are now on sale via the Mini Cooper Register’s website – go to www.minicooper.org and follow the Beaulieu link. Your entry ticket to the show will also include admission to the National Motor Museum and other Beaulieu attractions.

MINI PARTS TRADING One of the main attractions at the show for Mini enthusiasts is the excellent choice of stalls selling just about everything imaginable for your Mini or Mini related goodies. We will have, as in previous years, our extensive Mini Traders stalls located in their usual place adjacent to the main arena. Following on from the success of the last three years, there will, again, be the popular Trunk Trader’s autojumble area for private individuals to sell surplus to requirements parts from the boot (or trunk!) of their car. Pitches are available from £10 in advance or £15 on the day. So, book a pitch now or pay on the day for a cost effective way to sell off those Mini parts that you no longer need for your car.

MINI CELEBS AND PERSONALITIES Another great feature of the show is the opportunity to meet some of the Mini celebrities who either raced or rallied in the Works and Special Tuning cars during their heyday, as well as the mechanics and engineers who built them. They are always happy to talk about their memories and recollections of the times they spent working in the Competitions Department, ably prompted by the commentator for the show, noted car author and historian Graham Robson. As well as interviewing the gathered VIPs throughout the day, Graham will be chatting to enthusiasts who own Minis of particular significance and interest.

THE VENUE Set in the scenic and rural New Forest, Beaulieu National Motor Museum offers easy access and great facilities for visitors to the show. Beaulieu is just 12 miles south of junction 2 on the M27 - follow the brown and white National Motor Museum signs, via the A326. For satellite navigation the postcode is SO42 7ZN. There are also rail connections to nearby Beaulieu Road station, which is on the main line from London Waterloo to Weymouth, and local bus services but Sunday timetables will apply to both trains and buses.

35


Events

GET LISTED

Email minimag.ed@k elsey.co.uk or visit our website www.minimag.co.u k

BOOK YOUR MINI ACTIVITIES WITH OUR COMPREHENSIVE MINI SHOW LISTINGS! May 28-30

Minis on the Prom Mini convoy beginning at B&Q Cardiff Gate at 9:30 on the Saturday, heading for Aberaeron on Wales’ west coast. The main event takes place on Aberaenon’s pretty harbour side on the Sunday, including a show and shine, charity raffle, club events and much more. For more info search Facebook for ‘Minis on the Prom’. minisontheprom@gmail.com

May 29

Thistle Run The Mini Clan’s annual run will begin at the Falkirk Wheel and conclude in Anstruther. Funds raised for Cleft Lip and Palate Association and RNLI. www.miniclan.com

May 29-30

Motorsport at the Palace Annual sprint racing event on the historic Crystal Palace circuit. www.motorsportatthepalace.co.uk

June 3-6

24th Slovak Mini Meeting Annual three-day event, taking place in a beautiful mountain area in the north west of Slovakia. Includes a picturesque Mini run, entertainment, and a visit to a bike museum www.mini-klub.sk

June 5

National Metro and Mini show Activity-packed new event taking

36

place at the Heritage Motor Centre, Gaydon, to cater for both Metros and Minis. Features include camping, a glow show, Cooper 35 LE display, a concours, ‘noncours’, traders, clubs and more. Search for ’National Metro and Mini Show’ on Facebook.

June 5

Bromley Pageant of Motoring Popular annual multi-marque event at Norman Park, Bromley, with traders. club stands and autojumble. www.bromleypageant.co.uk

June 6-9

Mini Meet West Mini Owners of America, Los Angeles (MOALA) will host this year’s event, which takes place in sunny San Diego. www.minimeetwest2016.com

Expect Works Minis galore at the Mini Cooper Day on June 12.

June 10-13

Hay Mini Nationals Mini event taking place in Hay, New South Wales, Australia. Activities include show ‘n’ shine, trade stands, autotest and rocker cover racing. www.haymininationals.com.au

June 12

National Mini Cooper Day Excellent annual event at the Beaulieu Motor Museum in Hampshire. Expect fantastic Works Mini displays, Mini celebs, autojumble, club stands, concours and more. www.minicooper.org

annual Mini show has been opened up to include other classic cars too. The event is free, but cars must be in place by 10am. www.trentvalleymoc.co.uk

June 23-26

North Yorkshire Mini Adventure Drive your Mini around the North Yorkshire Moors. Includes camping from Thursday to Monday, plus a charity raffle, treasure hunt, entertainment and much more. www.northyorkshireminis.co.uk

June 25-26

Mini & VW Bus show British Mini Club bring two iconic June 19 Gainsborough Mini Day & Classics vehicles together at DK Rugby Club, Taking place in Gainsborough’s Market West Midlands. Highlights include a Place, Trent Valley Mini Owners Club’s Late night bar with live band. Check out ‘Mini & VW Bus’ on Facebook. www.britishminiclub.co.uk

June 30 - July 3

Balkanska Minijada Mini Club Serbia’s annual flagship event taking place at Silver Lake, a popular tourist resort by the River Danube in eastern Serbia. www.miniclubserbia.rs

July 3

Retro Fundraising Mini and classic car run to raise funds for Martock Charity Shop in Somerset, helping disabled children. Includes camping, entertainment,and more.. www.retrofundraising.co.uk


Events July 10

Mini World Live Action-packed Mini event and trackday taking place at Rockingham Motor Speedway, Northants. Expect a show ‘n’ shine, retail village, Saturday night camping and entertainment, and much more besides. www.miniworldlive.co.uk

July 15-17

Skegminifest Music, Minis and laughter at the Welcome Inn in Skegness, with camping available from Friday to Monday. All proceeds will go to Mcmillan Cancer Support. www.skegminifest.co.uk

July 16-17

Brands Hatch Mini Festival Superb Mini racing event at Brands Hatch. Expect a host of top cars, stars and championships, including the pre’66 historic Minis and the Fastest Mini in the World Allcomers race. www.mini-festival.co.uk

August 27-28

Causeway Coast Mini Weekend Excellent Northern Ireland weekender beginning at Bushmills Distillery, County Antrim, followed by the famous Dash of the O’rish run. Sunday’s static main event takes place in Portrush,and will end with a special convoy through the town. www.ccminiclub.co.uk

August 27-29

East Anglian Job Norfolk Mini Owners Club’s popular weekender returns for the fourth time. Activities include two Mini runs, camping, a quiz and a barbecue. www.eastanglianjob.co.uk

August 27-29

Legendary Grand Tour Back for 2015, this Mini touring event takes place in North Devon to raise money for Little Bridge House Children’s Hospice. www.smallcarsbighearts.co.uk

August 29

July 23-24

East Midlands Mini and VW Show The August Bank Holiday version of this show, taking place as part of the Notts Classic Event at Thoresby Park, Ollerton, Notts. www.classicshows.org

July 31

British MiniFest Popular event taking place at Uttoxeter Racecourse. Includes the second round of the Premier Concours, plenty of action in the live arena (including loudest exhaust and ICE sound-off), traders, autojumble and more. www.britishminiclub.co.uk

Manx Mini Meet Superb annual event on the Isle of Man, with the chance to drive the famous TT circuit, a treasure hunt and evening entertainment. www.manxminiregister.com Colchester to Yarmouth Run Colchester Mini Club invites all Minis on its run from Essex to Great Yarmouth on the Norfolk coast. www.colchesterminiclub.co.uk

August 5-7

Cambridge Mini Chill Relaxed Mini camping weekender taking place at Marley Eternit Social Club in Meldreth, Cambs. Expect local bands, food and more. knowles.madhouse@virgin.net

September 4

September 4

Minis by the Sea West Sussex MOC’s brilliant free annual show, taking place at Steyne

Gardens, Worthing. Includes club and trade stands, raffle and auction. www.wsmoc.co.uk

September 6-14

Italian Job Tour Drive to Turin in Italy and visit the film locations of the iconic 1969 film, The Italian Job. It takes place over nine days and features guided tours, plus a three-night stay in the famous Lingotto Hotel with its rooftop track. Cost is £675 per person, based on two people sharing. www.italianjobtours.co.uk

September 11

October 23

Cap’n Jaspers Gathering West Country Mini Scene’s autumn Breakfast Gathering, taking place at Plymouth Barbican from 10am-3pm. www.wcminiscene.co.uk

October 25-November 5

The Italian Job Excellent annual navigational event raising money for children’s’ charities. This year’s event starts at Imola, and includes trips to Modena, plus visits to the Lamborghini, Ducati and Alfa Romeo Museums and a morning on the famous Lingotto factory roof. www.italianjob.com

National Mini Show November 11-13 Long-running annual event at Stanford Classic Motor Show Hall, near Lutterworth. Includes Superb multi-marque classic car show concours, club displays, trade stands at the NEC, Birmingham, with live and autojumble. demonstrations, traders, autojumble www.miniownersclub.co.uk and more. Many Mini clubs and rare examples are usually in attendance. September 11 www.necclassicmotorshow.com Mouth to Mouth Run Jurassic Coast Minis’ annual run, May 26-29 2017 beginning at the Riviera Hotel in IMM 2017 Weymouth and ending at the Lifeboat The International Mini Meeting returns Station in Exmouth. Full details are on to Ireland, with the Irish Mini Owners the club’s website. Club hosting the event 20 years after it www.jurassiccoastminis.co.uk last did so in 1997. The location for 2017 will be Piltown, County Kilkenny. October 9 We can’t wait for this one! Malvern Autumn Mini Show and www.irishminis.ie Spares Day Part of the Malvern Classic Event, taking place at Three Counties Showground, Malvern, Worcestershire. www.classicshows.org

August 6

Baltic Mini Challenge Circuit-based event taking place in Madona, Latvia, with various prizes. www.balticminichallenge.lv

August 14

Mini in the Park Brilliant Mini event at Santa Pod raceway. Camping and entertainment on Saturday night, followed by traders, club displays, live arena, dragstrip action, the chance to win a Mini and more on Sunday. www.minishow.co.uk

August 20

Oulton Park Mini Festival The second of two superb Mini racing festival events, taking place at the Oulton Park Circuit in Cheshire. More details to be announced. www. mini-festival.co.uk

REGULAR MINI EVENTS Ace Cafe Mod ‘n’ Mini Night Visit the iconic Ace Cafe on London’s North Circular on the first Thursday of each month throughout the year. www.ace-cafe-london.com West Midlands Mini Nights Taking place on the second Friday of every month at the Sketchley Bar in Weir Lane, Lower Wick, Worcester. www.westmidlandminishow.co.uk Trent Valley Mini Nights On the first Friday of each month from May to September at The Red Lion, Redbourne. www.trentvalleymoc.co.uk H Cafe Mini Meets Taking place on the second Thursday of each month at the H Cafe, Oxford Road, Dorchester-on-Thames. www.h-cafe.co.uk

37


Your Minis

Send ‘Your Minis’ pictures to minimag_ed@kelsey.co.uk

SPEED MACHINE Name: Dan Altham Car: 1982 Austin Mini City Location: Gloucester

The motorsport influence is clear to see on this one!

■ I found my Mini in 2009 in Banbury

and at that point didn't have a clue how to work on a car. Over time I gradually made subtle mods inside and out, then in my college holidays in 2012 decided to get the car sprayed in the Gulf colours. It was still a 998, so I managed to find a 1275 from a local friend and over the winter of 2013 Spam at Spamspeed taught me how to rebuild it. We added a 276 Kent camshaft, straightcut drop gears, a Dell’Orto DHLA 40 carb and a Spamspeed head. A month or so later we were back on his rollers and it produced a very reasonable 80bhp. Phil and the boys at Gloucester Mini have got me out of some very hairy situations with the car, my girlfriend Charlotte has been a great help and I should also say thanks to my parents for putting up with the constant dismantling, stress, injuries I put on myself and them!

The car looks great in Gulf colours.

CORNISH CLUBBY

Name: David Howard Model: 1975 Mini Clubman Location: Cornwall

■ My brother Rob and I first bought this Mini in 1996 for £150, a gold 998cc automatic - a genuine granny runabout! It's 41 years old now with its original doors, boot, and bonnet, although it’s had a light resto. Rob went off racing Minis many years ago so I took on the project myself, with numerous house moves holding things up along the way. Finally in 2015 I started working on it again. It’s had a rollcage installed, been resprayed and fitted with Cooper S front discs, Spax dampers all round and fully adjustable suspension. It’s currently running with a 1275 MG Metro engine while I wait to get my 1380 MED motor back from being rebuilt by my dad Colin. It’ll be kept road legal for Cornish Mini Club runs but I’m aiming to eventually compete in various local sprints. So there’s Perspex windows, a Migliastyle dashboard and plenty of weight saving ahead.

38

A 1380 MED motor will be going in David's Clubby soon.


Your minis

RESCUED ESTATE Name: Ray Cartwright Car: Clubman Estate Location: Lincolnshire

Ray's Estate now looks amazing.

■ My very first car in 1969 was a

light green Minivan and I’ve owned many more since, doing all my own repairs along the way. Following the death of my father in 2010, I wanted a project and soon got an urge to get another Mini. Friends suggested I go and see Colin Davis, who restores Minis locally. A full restoration of a saloon followed before I found this Clubman Estate. It had been off the road since 1989 and Colin described it as ‘marginal’. However, he managed to fully restore this one too, and by July 2014 it was in like-new condition. We went for Nightfire Red paint in place of the original yellow, I fitted out the boot with a privacy board and installed seats from a Red Hot LE. It cost me a small fortune but I’m pleased to have kept this classic motoring icon on the road a bit longer.

The car had been off the road since 1989.

ON THE BEAT Name: Richard Bryant Model: MkI Cooper S Location: Sydney, Australia

Richard's believes his Cooper S may be an ex-police vehicle.

The original 1275 S motor is still fitted.

■ Here’s some pics of my cherished 1968 MkI Morris Cooper S, which has all matching numbers and the original 1275cc engine. I’ve owned it since 2001 and have kept it in tip-top condition since it was fully restored in 1998. I’m told it was originally a New South Wales Police car in its former life, although I’ve no photos of it before it went to the current Island Blue and white paint job. Along with the car I also have two sets of original Contessa alloys and the original steels if I ever need to go right back to standard. The climate might be kinder to Minis here in Australia but these MkI Cooper Ss are still a rare sight.

39


Your Minis

The interior is mostly original.

COOL COOPER Name: Mark Woods Car: 1992 Mini Cooper Location: Ipswich

The engine has been tuned

with a Stage 1 kit.

■ My 1992 mainstream Mini

Cooper was bought as a project, as the previous owner had stripped it out ready for the bodywork to be sorted. I replaced the front end and carried out repairs to the boot floor, inner and outer sills, and bulkhead. The shell wasn't too bad at all really. The front end was resprayed and I cleaned the rest up, although the engine wasn't so good. However, after an overhaul it now runs really well with a Stage 1 kit installed. The Monte Carlo alloys and Group 2 arches set it off a treat. Like any Mini, there's always more to do! Big thanks go to Simon at Wattisham Mini Club for use of his trailer and Mark and Gerald Rose for the workshop.

A set of Cooper Monte Carlo LE alloys really set the Mini off a treat.

RACING REBUILD Name: Phil and Darren Eaton Model: Mini Se7en Location: Poole

■ After hillclimbing a 16-valve Mini for a few years, we decided to give circuit racing a go. The original shell was acquired by Phil in exchange for a heater for a Mini – bargain! After a few new panels, it was treated to a full rollcage by Owens Fabrication. With the help of some friends we have completed a dry build, installing a fibreglass front and boot floor, hydraulic pedal box, fuel and brake lines plus some other goodies. Now it is back with its new paint scheme, we have purchased the wheels and are on to the engine rebuild. We aim to be out racing in the 2017 Mini Se7en Championship.

40

The shell was acquired in a swap for a heater unit!

Full Owens Fabrication rollcage.


Alloy rear backplates Completely replace your heavy rear backplate setup for this lightweight alloy billet pair!

ÂŁ198 Sold as pair

- Includes new replaceable adjusters - Machined from lightweight billet alloy - Improved life span over the steel version - To suit 3/4� bore rear cylinders - Anodised in blue, black, red and silver

inc VAT

www.dsnclassics.co.uk

Tel: 01953 455551

sales@dsnclassics.co.uk

DSN Classics, Bunns Bank Ind. Est. Attleborough, NR17 1QD, United Kingdom

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STEERING & WHEEL BEARINGS RHD ROVER STEERING RACK ............................................. 67.14 4 TRACK-ROD END .....................................................................3.98 8 TRACK-ROD END (ROVER) ................................................... 13.98 8 TRACK-ROD END (LONG) ........................................................... 6.90 6. RACK GAITER KIT (EARLY 4.5” TYPE) ....................................................8.34 8 34 RACK GAITER KIT (LATE 2 SIZES) .................................................................. NE ZI FRONT WHEEL BEARING KIT (DRUMS) ................................................... A FRONT WHEEL BEARING KIT (DISCS) .............................................. AG 74 M I FRONT WHEEL BEARING KIT (DISCS) TIMKEN.......................... ..47 .47.99 IN M REAR WHEEL BEARING KIT (TO 96) .................................... ........... 14.10 S VE R REAR WHEEL BEARING KIT (TO 96) TIMKEN .............. SI RDE ............... 38.34 U REAR WHEEL BEARING KIT (MPI) TIMKEN ........... L O ...................... 39.54

C E EX ON R H U P FUEL YO ND R ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP (SU) ......... O E A ..................... 71.40 MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP (69 5 F LIN............................. 35.40 7 2 ON.................................... 36.60 MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP MP M1 FF) ............................................47.40 MECHANICAL FUEL PU M O DE NT ARB SALOON FUEL TAN AN ARB) ........................................ 247.92 2 O SALOON FUEL EL T C OUCT CTION) ............................................... 311.22 22 N ISCERF VAN FUEL EL ERFLOOR) ...................................................................... .............. 222.18 OU DAS C HS4 41 ASTIC JET)........................................................................... 232.20 S I H HS (WAXSTAT)................................................................................ 239.94 (W ED S RB ........................................................................................................ 353.40 U CARB ....................................................................................................... 359.94 CA WIN H4 WORKS CARB KIT .............................................................................. 958.80

HEADLAMPS WIPAC QUADOPTICS (RHD) PAIR .................................................35.94 WIPAC QUADOPTICS (LHD) PAIR ................................................. 50.34 HALOGEN LIGHT UNIT (REPLACES SEALED BEAM) .................... 9.99 OUTER CHROME RIM ....................................................................... 9.30 PLASTIC BOWL KIT .................................................................................................11.52

OIL PUMPS PIN DRIVE (850-1100) ............................................................ 15.54 PIN DRIVE (COOPER S)........................................................ 107.94 STAR DRIVE (1300) ..................................................................15.54 4 SLOT DRIVE (998 A+) ................................................................... 15.54 54 SLOT DRIVE (1300 A+) ......................................................................................... 15.54

SHOCK ABSORBERS (KYB) STANDARD OIL ......................................................................... 14.70 .70 GAS ................................................................................... 26.34 GAS-A-JUST .................................................................... 29.34

OIL COOLERS 10 ROW .............................................................. 41.94 13 ROW ............................................................. 29.94

ALTERNATORS 45AMP (69-80) ................................................................... 43.14 70AMP (80-96) .................................................................. 59.70 80 AMP (96-00) ................................................................ 101.94

COOLING RADIATOR (3-CORE) 59-91 ........................................... 57.54 RADIATOR (91-96) 1275CC............................................ 95.94 RADIATOR (MPI 96 ON) .................................................. 81.54

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IGNITION

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COIL (NON-BALLAST) ...................................................... 16.74 COIL (BALLAST) ................................................................. 17.94 COIL (ELECTRONIC IGN).......................................................21.54 COIL (MPI) ............................................................................... 60.00 SPORTS COIL (NON-BALLAST)............................................... 20.34 SPORTS COIL (BALLAST) ...........................................................20.34 4 HT LEAD SET (SIDE-ENTRY CAP) .................................................. 11.94 94 HT LEAD SET (PUSH-ON TO 96) ........................................................................... 11.94 HT LEAD SET (MPI) ............................................................................................... 21.54

BRAKES MASTER CYLINDER (COOPER S METAL TANK) .................................................. 71.94 MASTER CYLINDER (DRUMS METAL TANK) ...................................................... 66.90 MASTER CYLINDER (PLASTIC TANK) ..................................................................44.10 MASTER CYLINDER (DUAL CIRCUIT 85-88) ...................................................... 72.90 MASTER CYLINDER (88 ON SERVO TYPE) ........................................................ 80.34 8.4” SOLID DISC ...................................................................................................... 8.99 7.5” COOPER S DISC ............................................................................................. 25.80 7” 997/998 COOPER DISC ...................................................................................44.34 VENTED DISC.......................................................................................................... 17.40 SPACERED DRUM ...................................................................................................15.54 PLAIN DRUM ...........................................................................................................12.54 MK1 COOPER S SERVO ....................................................................................... 355.14 MK2/3 ‘S’ & GT SERVO KIT ................................................................................ 142.74 CALLIPER (84 ON) ................................................................................................59.94 94 CALLIPER (COOPER S) GENUINE ...................................................................... 134.34 34.34 34 4

ALDON DISTRIBUTORS 100AY, 100AR, ..................................................................... 138.00 100AYP, 100ARP, 100AYV................................................... 162.00 40819 COOPER S................................................................ 162.00 0

WIPERS WIPER MOTOR DR3A MK1 (EXCHANGE) .......................................................... ........ ............... . ........ . ........ ......... . ..... ... ... ..... ... ... . .. 150.00 1 50.00 0 WIPER MOTOR MK2 ON (67-00) .........................................................................45.54 ...... ...... . . .......... .............. . ...... . .... .... ..... ........ ........45. ...... 45.54 .54 WIPER BLADE 10” TEX (STAINLESS) .................................................................... ...... .... ......... ... ......... ................ ...... ................ . ......... . ......... ... . . . 6.9 6.90 6 .90 .9 WIPER BLADE 11” TRICO TYPE................................................................................ ...... ............ ..................... . ..... ... . ... ........ ...................... ... ............... ........... .. . . 7 7.14 .14

WINDSCREENS FRONT CLEAR LAMINATED 34.74 FRONT TINTED LAMINATED................................................................................. ......... ..................... . ......... ..... ... ..... .... ..... ... .... . ... ................ . ........ .............. ...... 36.54 HEATED REAR SCREEN (CLEAR) EA A R) R ) ............. ......................................................................... .... ........ ......... ..... ... ... .... .... ........... . ... ............ ...... ...... .. ....... 70.92 FRONT BLUE TOP TINT LAMINATED AMI MIN N AT NATED ATED T ED E D ........ ......................................................................44.34 ...... ... ..... ... ... .................... . ..... ........... ... . . .... ...... FRONT MPI TINTED LAMINATED AMII NATE NA NAT ATE T ......... TED ......................................................................... ........ .. ... .... . ................. ... ... ................ . .. ........ ... ...... . ... . .... 82.20 HEATED REAR SCREEN EEN N TINTED T NTED TIN N TE TED ........................................................................... ....... . . ... ... ....... ... ........... ................ .......... ..... .. ... ... ... ..... 68.34

MOUNTINGS UNTINGS TINGS GS ENGINE NE (M (MANUAL).................................................................................................. M AN MANUA A NU ANUA NUAL) AL L) .. .. . . ... . ...... ............... L)...... . .......... ... ... ........ . ..... .. . .... .... 3.06 ENGINE GINE NE E (MA ((MANUAL (M M AN MANU MANUAL A NUAL LW WITH IT CAP CAPTIVE APT PT PTIVE T IVE IV VE NU NUTS) N U TS) T S ............................................................ 3.78 ENGINE ENG G IN N E (AUTOM NE (AUTOMATIC (AUTO AUTO UTOM O MA OMAT MA AT T I C LH)......................................................................................12.60 LH)........... ....... . .... .... ENGINE ENG EN NG NGINE G IN INE NE (AUTOM ((AUTOMATIC (AUTO TO O MATIC MA RH) ................. .................................................................................... 23.40 FRONT F FR FRO RO RONT ON N T SUBF NT SUBFRAME SUB B FRA F RAME R (FRONT) ....... ................................................................................. 2.64 FRO FR FRONT RONT RO ON NT T SU SUBFRAME SUB B F RAME (REAR) .................................................................................... ...... 2.86 FR FRO FRONT RONT NT TS SUBFRAME UBFRAME TOWER (U (UPPER) .................................................................... 3.48 FRONT FRO ON NT SUBFRAME TOWER (LOWER) ................................................................... 5.88

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KNUCKLE JOINT (ALL REAR & FRONT TO 1990) .................................................. ...... .... ....... . ... ..... ... ....... . ........ ...... ... ...... . .... . . ... . . ... 3.18 KNUCKLE JOINT (FROM 1990 ON) ....................................................................... .......... . .... ....... .... ... . ...... ....... .... ..... . ....... . ....... . .. .. 12.08 BALL JOINTS (PAIR) ................................................................................................ ....... . ... .......... . ........ ... . .. ..... . . . . .... ... ........... 7.56 TOP ARM REPAIR KIT..............................................................................................13.14 ...... ... ............ ........ ....... ....... ...... ... ... .............. RADIUS ARM REPAIR KIT ...................................................................................... ...... .... ....... . ..... .............. .......... ........ . .... ... .................. 10.0 10.07 NEW RADIUS ARM (DRY) ...................................................................................263.34 ......................... ... .......... .............. ... ... ... ....................263.34 RUBBER CONE ....................................................................................................... .......... ............ .. ....... ... . ......... .. . .... .......................... 40.62 FRONT STRUT........................................................................................................... ....... ........... . ...... . ...... .......... ....... .. .... ..................................... N N/A TIE-ROD BUSH ......................................................................................................... ...... ... ................... ............... ............. ....... ..... . ... ... .................................... 0.74 LOWER ARM BUSH (64 ON) .................................................................................... ...... ... . ............. . . ......... ... . .......... ...... ... ... .................................. 1.56

BODY SEALS FRONT SCREEN (59-90)......................................................................................... 0)... .... ...... . .... . ................ ............ ...... ... ... ...................... .... ...... ............ . ..... 9.90 FRONT SCREEN (91-00)..........................................................................................13.14 00) 0).. .................. . . ......... .......... ...... .. .... . .. ... ... ................. . ..... ... ............... . ....... ..... .... REAR SCREEN (67 7 ON ON) N ) .................. N) ............................................................................................ .......... .... .... ... ...... .... .......................... ... ............ ...... . . ... ... ..... 9.00 CHROME LOCKING ING G STR STRIP....................................................................................... S T R IP TR TRIP I IP..... . .... ..... .... .......... . .................... .... . .......... . ... ... .... 3.72 DOOR SEAL (59-6 (59-69) -6 6 9)) .............................................................................................. 69 ......... ....... .......... .... ........ ...... . ..... . ... .......... ...... . . .. ... ... ..... 10.50 DOOR SEAL AL (6 (69-96) 6 9-96) 6969-9 9 9 6) ......... ...............................................................................................11.94 . ... ................... . ......... ............ ........... .... OPENING NG R REAR E AR EA A R ¼ LIG LIGHT LI G HT H T (59 (59-69)......................................................................... 9 -6 9-69) -69 ) . ............ -69). ... ......... 6.60 OPENING NIN N G RE R E AR REAR R ¼ LIG LIGHT L IIG G HT (6 ((69 69 9 ON ON)......................................................................... O ON) N ) ... .. .... . . .... ...... 7.68 FIXED XED ED D REAR R EA RE REA E A R ¼ LIG LIGHT L LI IG GHT G H (69 HT ( 6 9 ON) O N) N ) ....... ............................................................................... . ... .... ... .... .... 10.74 BOOT BOO OO OT LID ID D SEA SEAL S EA EAL A L ((59-88) 59-8 598 88) 8 ) ........................................................................................ 8) ... ....... ............. ...... .... . ... ... .... 10.08 B OO BO BOOT O OT OT LID LIID SEA SEAL SE A L (8 (88 8 8 ON) O N) ........ ......................................................................................... . . .... ... ..... 9.00 B O DY BO BODY Y SEAL SE SEA S E AL A L KIT KI T OF O F 7 (69-88) (69-88 (6 6 9-8 699-88 8 ) .... 8) .............................................................................. 49.00 BODY B ODY DY Y SEAL S E AL KIT SE K I T OF O F 7 (88 ((8 8 8 ON ON) O N ) .............................................................................. 49.00

HERITAGE ERITAGE ERIT RITAG BODY B PANELS

MK1 K11 IN INNER INN NE NER ER R A PA P PAN PANEL ANEL ............................................................................................ 68.69 MK M MK1 K1 OU OUTER ER R A PA PANEL ........................................................................................... 36.00 M A PAN MK MK3A PANEL P A NEL ......................................................................................................... 22.15 ANE FRONTWING FRO FR ON NT N NTW T W I NG (ROUND FRONT)........................................................................... 105.24 TW FRONT FRO F FRON RO R O NT NT W WING (CLUBMAN) . .................................................................................. ..... . ...... . .. ... . ... ..... ... ... ... ... . ..... .... . .... ....... .... ... .... . . ................. 117.31 FULL F ULL U L S SCUTTLE ................................................................................................... .................. . ... . .......... ......... ...... ... ....... ..... .... . .... ...... 138.48 HEELBOARD H EE COMPLETE ......................................................................................74.22 .................................... ............ ... ... ... . . .. OUTER SILL (MK3 SALOON) ................................................................................ 41.54 O DOOR SKIN (MK1 & MK3) .................................................................................... ............... ....... . . . . ........................... ............ ... . . ........ 88.63 MK1 BOOTLID...................................................................................................... .............. . . . ....... ... .... .... ....... .... ... . ... . ........... ... . ............. . ... ... .... .... . ... . . . . .......... 332.33 REAR SUBFRAME (WET) ................................................................................... ......... ... .... .... ... . ......... . ....... . ... ... ... ..... . .... .... ..... . .... ......... . .... ..... . . .... .......... .... ...... .... . .... .......... ....... . ... . 420.95 REAR SUBFRAME (DRY) ................................................................................... ...... ... .... . ....... . ...................................... ..... . .... .... ..... ... . . .. 420.95 FRONT PANEL (ROUND FRONT) ........................................................................ 193.85 FRONT PANEL (CLUBMAN COMPLETE) ............................................................. 241.51 BONNET (CLUBMAN) ............................................................................................ 177.11 BONNET (ROUND FRONT) .................................................................................. 182.77 FRONT SUBFRAME FROM ................................................................................. 448.63 REAR VALANCE .................................................................................................... 54.28 REAR PANEL (LOWER HALF) ............................................................................. 221.56

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ON THE JOB

ON THE JOB Words and Photography Stephen Colbran

From the ashes

GET FEAyoTurUproRjecEt D to Send photos of ey.co.uk minimag.ed@kels ite bs we r ou it or vis .uk www.minimag.co

Andrew Horne’s Mini went up in flames, but he was determined to rebuild it in style. This featherweight creation should be a real handful once complete!

D

on’t let the plasticky feel of Carbon-fibre fool you – the woven graphite inside the resin makes the stuff as electrically conductive as metal. Obviously that’s no real issue to go-faster car builders, who love the lightweight yet strong material, but it can catch a few people off guard every now and then. Unfortunately that includes Andrew Horne, who was happily relaxing at home, blissfully unaware of the shorted-out wiring under the bonnet of his project Mini and the inevitable fire that followed. Thankfully a neighbour alerted him of the inferno in time to extinguish it and save the car, but it made one hell of a mess of the front end. By this point Andrew had already put a fair amount of time and effort into his

Andrew is hoping to get the car ready for his wedding in July.

44

Mini project, and a mere engine bay fire wouldn’t stop his enthusiasm; it actually spurred him on to rebuild it better than before. The melted front end was stripped back, the engine removed and sights set on building a big-power turbo A-Series motor to compete with the fastest drag racing Minis in the country – quite a step up. We travelled up to see how this behemoth of a Mini is progressing so far, and were certainly wowed by the dedication to ultimate weight saving and ultimate power. The subframes have been swapped for Force Racing titanium versions, there’s lightweight composites all round, then trick suspension and brake upgrades to tame an estimated 250bhp. Of course to get this much power from an

A-Series you need real commitment to the cause, because let’s face it, it’s going to be seriously stressed out, even if it only needs to run for quarter of a mile at a time. In this case it'll be getting a stonking turbo, nitrous oxide, fuel injection and a twin-cam 16-valve head from a BMW motorbike. We think Andrew may be slightly bonkers, in the best possible sense. Not only is he planning on a building a 500bhp per tonne Mini, but to also start attacking some local hillclimb and sprint courses. That might see some revisions to the spec, so he can go round corners without constantly lighting up the front tyres. First things first though, he’s getting married in July so it needs to finished off and buffed-up for the photos. That’s not very much time at all…


nd Carbon-fibre panels all rou n. atio cre t igh for this lightwe

An electrical fault sent the front end up in flames.

OFILE PROJECT PR THE OWwNHoER rne

NAME: Andre AGE: 27 ilding surveyor OCCUPATION: Bu pool rtle Ha N: LOCATIO

THE CARni:1000

CAR: 1970 Mi d melted ON: Modified an START CONDITI complete nt ce r pe 90 W: CONDITION NO FAR: Nine years TIME TAKEN SO N: July 2016 E OF COMPLETIO TIM ED AT TIM ES

45


ON THE JOB and started dripping down and setting fire to everything else. I'm pretty lucky that it’s still here in one piece. You must have been devastated… I had all the bits to put it back on the road, and it was always going to get a new engine that winter, so I decided to do it early. The shell itself was OK, just that the smoke and fire took the paint back to metal on the front. And then you went with a better engine? Yes, still a five-port but with nitrous. It was always going to be purely for drag racing, but now I’m hoping to go for more sprint events and hillclimbs. Eventually I’d like to try Time Attack and have a couple of rounds when it comes to Croft. It’s just the cost involved that’s holding me back at the moment. Protech coil-overs give plenty of adjustment to perfect the handling.

So is this a road-going Mini? It was originally built as a road car and I used it to go to work on nicer days, not all year round, but it was still used regularly. It was quite standard with a MkI style, but then I started going down a more modified route, cutting the front end off and bolting on a carbon-fibre one. I got the rear beam from Force Racing, and I’ve been collecting lots of parts ever since. We’ve got a Paul Smith Mini as well, so the aim with this one is to have a bit of fun.

Have you built anything like this before? No only this one; it’s been ongoing for nine years now. The ideas have come from all over, with inspiration from lots of other cars that I've seen from going round the shows.

Single bucket seat for the dare devil driver.

Will the nitrous be used as well? It’s staying for now but I can't see it getting used – it will have more power than it needs anyway.

Have you done most of the work at home? Yes that was the plan. Everything I’ve tried to do What’s the engine now? myself, like making the exhaust, and it’s all been It’s a 1293 built to very similar specs as The Don, done in my uncle’s garage. Obviously I bought a Force Racing’s drag racer. We’re aiming for lot of the stuff like the subframes and 250bhp with the turbo, although in theory it suspension, but the welding and respray I learnt could potentially go even more than that. Carl to do myself. It’s not had anything done to it in Austin at Force Racing built the engine, or he did this new garage yet, I just brought it here after all the machining at least, then I went down and Christmas and I’ve had to work on the Paul put it all together with him. I was happy to build Smith a bit too. We heard it was damaged in a fire? the engine but I didn’t want to make a mistake – Yes I’d been to a local nighttime meet, came there’s been a fair bit gone into it and I didn’t You’ve gone all-out on saving weight then? back in for some dinner and a while later want the risk. Yes pretty much. I’ve gone for a carbon-fibre someone came banging on the door. We front end, roof, doors, then stripped out all the ignored them at first, but they kept at it and it Will that not be undriveable? back seat and replaced the panel with turned out to be one of the neighbours in a Yes, it may well be! As time’s gone on I’ve slowly aluminium. The aim is around 500kgs – that’s panic because the Mini was on fire outside. If it’d moved away from the drag racing and really where I’d like to be but it’ll be quite difficult happened 15 minutes earlier we would have fancied some proper racing. York’s my closest because the engine is quite a bit heavier. Well, been out and about in it, and it didn’t have a fire drag strip, then Shakespeare County, and York not the engine itself but all the turbo install, the extinguisher at the time, so it was fortunate that doesn’t have the best strip. extra cooling and pipework. it was outside the house because we put it out before the fire service arrived. What caused it? My bad wiring was the cause I think – I’m OK with building up the car but wiring’s clearly not my thing. It had rubbed through on the front end, shorted out on the carbon-fibre weave and set it on fire. All of the resin went up in flames

Modern SPA Design dash display in a classic housing.

46

Even the crossmember has seen action with the holesaw!


KAD discs and radius arms at the rear.

Who made the rear seat panel? I spoke to M-Machine over in Darlington and one of the old panel beaters formed the bulkhead for me. I wanted to keep it all looking standard-ish. To be honest I don’t really like the wide arches but you’re stuck on that one as they’re 7x10s on there and anything narrower wouldn’t cover them. What a beast of an engine! The intercooler Are you sticking with 10s? fitment work will be next on the list. It’s going to need a wheel change to get the power down. It’s probably going to have 13-inch get trailered there to take a picture but it would wheels and slicks. I’ve got some other wheels to be good to get it there at least. try at some point. Do you need the seat so far back? What’s going on with the front intercooler? It’s a bit unstable with all the power up front and Originally I didn’t have a trailer license, so a lot so little weight in the back, so I’m trying to sit as of the front end revolved around the A-frame far back as possible, seeing as I’m probably one mounts. Now that’s all changed and it’ll be of the heaviest parts of the car! I might even try trailered instead, which means I can go for the to re-make the steering column to sit further intercooler and rad up front. I’ve been trialling a back still, then go for a floor-mounted pedal box few different bits and will have to see about to bring them closer. fitting the front end back on. It might even need a Clubman front, but we’ll see. Are you planning to compete in Mini Miglias? No I just liked the sticker and needed something What’s next? to fill the gap. Eventually I’d like to have a go at I’ve got this idea to take it to my wedding at the something like that, but it’s probably going to be end of July. So I need to finish off the build, wire a bit too powerful now. The trouble is, with the it up then sort the mapping as well. It’ll probably spec of the car it’s a bit extreme for a lot of race series. The carbon-fibre roof puts it into a sports libre class, then with the 1275 turbo you’re into one of the highest classes there is. In hindsight it should have been a 998 turbo, but at least I’ve got some good stuff on it that can be transferred over to a new build eventually.

A new build…? Yes I’d like to fit a fully welded-in rollcage, then once that’s in I might build a whole new engine to make it eligible for more series. Once I’ve got it running again I’ll start the process of making it more track-orientated.

Twin-cam motor sits in a titanium subframe.

What have you done to the suspension? It’s got coil-overs all round, aluminium hubs and Mondo Sport steering arms on there, but to be honest until I get it running I won’t know if all of

those bits are what it needs. There’s going to be a lot to sort out, although everything’s adjustable so that should hopefully help to get it handling well. I’ve also bought a set of corner weight scales to get that side of things perfect when it’s back down on its wheels again. And the brakes? Mini Sport four-pots are on there for now, with KAD discs on the back. They worked really well before and there’s not much to stop anyway. Even with the five-port engine you could feel the rear end start to lift when hard on the brakes. I’m not sure if it was in the air but you could certainly feel it go light at the back! There’s a bias valve in there and it’s got pretty much no brake pressure to the rear – they don’t do a great deal.

FINISHED SPEC COLOUR: Blue with carbon-fibre detailing. ENGINE: 1293cc, BMW K1100 cylinder head, racespec con-rods and crank, Force Racing flywheel and backplate, Omex 710 ECU, home-made plenum chamber and stainless turbo manifold, custom-spec Garrett turbocharger. GEARBOX: Quaife dog-engagement straight-cut ‘box, Salisbury LSD. SUSPENSION: Titanium front subframe, Protect coilovers, titanium rear beam, aluminium hubs, all parts fully adjustable. BRAKES: Mini Sport four-pots front, KAD discs rear WHEELS: Force Racing 10-inch split-rims. INTERIOR: Stripped-out, digital dash, bucket seat, wireless control buttons, internal gear linkage.

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CUSTOM 1293 CITY

STARTING Ashley Rice first started his Mini City project when he was just 12. Some nine years later, it’s emerged as a custom 1293 creation with a cool retro twist.

B

y their very nature, it’s not uncommon for Mini projects to take the best part of a decade to complete. Plans change, life gets in the way and things have to take a back seat sometimes. So when Ashley Rice told us that he’d finally finished his custom Mini build after nine long years, we weren’t particularly surprised. But when we discovered that he was just 21 years old, we took a bit more notice... Starting a project a couple of years before taking your driving test is nothing new, but Ashley wasn’t even a teenager when this one got started. Over the following years the build stalled a couple of times as he got distracted by the lure of motorsport, but now

50


CUSTOM 1293 CITY

YOUNG Words Jeff Ruggles Photography Jon Robinson Pratt

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CUSTOM 1293 CITY

THE BUILD

Ashley’s Mini had been used for tearing around fields, but the shell was remarkably sound. A stop-start rebuild over the next nine years saw the car get new panels, a full bare-metal repaint and a modified 1293cc engine with twin carbs.

Keen to add a retro touch, Ashley has fitted 10-inch wheels and plenty of chrome.

Caterham-style door mirrors were an eBay find.

Ashley’s a big fan of these JBW Mamba rims.

“I was still only 13 when I stripped it down to a bare shell on my mum’s driveway...” he’s seen it through with stunning results. And remarkably, the finished car is almost exactly as he pictured it in his 12-year-old mind – that’s before he could even legally do a paper round.

FAMILY INFLUENCE

The trigger for Ashley’s interest in Minis came from his grandfather, Derrick, who runs a garage business and is well known in his native Devon for being a bit of a Mini guru. And despite his tender years, it wasn’t long before Ashley would have a project of his own. “I got it a week before my 13th birthday,” he explains. “It was a one-owner Mini City E Automatic with only 37,000 miles on the clock. I bought it from a friend who was letting his kids race it around a field. To be honest though, the shell was still in really good condition.”

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Ashley now works as a mechanic for his grandad’s business, Culmstock Garage, and certainly started an early apprenticeship when it came to the Mini. “I was still only 13 when I stripped it down to a bare shell on my mum’s driveway, taking the subframes off, the lot,” he says. “Me, my dad and my grandad then put the panels on. We re-skinned the nearside door and bought a good second-hand one for the driver’s side, as well as replacing the front panel, bonnet and rear valance. But that was it – it’s still got its original sills, and the floors were absolutely immaculate.” The existing rear subframe was still in good condition too, so Ashley cleaned it up and had it repainted in black, as well as fitting new rear brake assemblies and respraying the radius arms in silver. “The front subframe had to be replaced with a


The smart burnt orange colour is actually from the Proton range!

manual one because the automatic one is different,” he says. “I stripped it bare, repainted it and rebuilt it with all new rubbers and polybushes. It’s been a full nut and bolt rebuild.”

Wavy grille complements the early Mk3 badge.

DISTRACTION TIME

After a burst of early activity, the project then ground to a halt as Ashley’s time got occupied elsewhere. “I was rebuilding it to put on the road for when I was 17,” he explains. “We cracked on and got the welding done, but I lost interest when I started racing in Ministox from the age of 14 to 16. Then from 16 onwards I began racing in bangers.” Around five years ago, Ashley’s interest was piqued again. Keen to get the wheels turning again, he began to prepare the car for its respray – a job that involved removing all traces of the original Flame Red paint. It was then taken to DB Body’s in nearby Hemyock for a full bare-metal inside-and-out respray. “It’s a burnt orange, but in a lot of photos it looks gold,” says Ashley. “It’s actually a Proton colour, with a metallic black roof. It took me six months to rub it down to bare metal by hand, working after school and at weekends. I must admit there were times I wanted to give up, but looking at it now it was well worth it.” But then things slowed up again. “After it was painted, we put the rollcage in, and I bought a full suspension kit from Mini Sport that came with the short Spax dampers, Adjusta Rides, the bottom arms,

Polished stainless exhaust was custom-made. Chrome numberplate lamp housing at the rear.

Amazingly, these are still the original sills!

adjustable tie-rods, and the rear camber and tracking brackets,” says Ashley. “We put all that on and I solid-mounted the front subframe, but basically I lost interest again as I started racing bangers all the time. It got left in the corner of the spray shop, wrapped up under covers.” Ashley ended up buying a yellow 1986 Mini to use after passing his test instead, leaving the City untouched for another extended period. “Last May I pulled the covers off and knew it was time to finally finish it,” he says. “Everyone kept on at me to get it done, so I decided to give racing a

miss for a bit. For the next 10 months I spent every weekend, lunchtime and evening working on it.” One of the biggest tasks was to sort and prepare a new power unit. “My grandad builds race engines, so he put the engine and gearbox together as a little project,” Ashley explains. “I bought a 1275 Metro from a friend. It had been used as a field car for a few years, but the engine was good and was low mileage. I gave £80 for the whole car and we used the engine and gearbox as a basis. It’s had quite a lot done to it.” The work included decking the block

53


Silver rollcage looks the part and adds extra safety for trackday use.

TECH SPEC

Neat wood-rim Mountney steering wheel.

BODY 1989 Mini City E Automatic, restored with new front panel, bonnet, new doorskin and rear valance, replacement driver’s door, Mini special arches, Minivation bonnet hinges, wavy grille, smoked side repeaters, chrome wiper arms, jets and scuttle bungs, Caterham door mirrors, fliptop fuel filler cap, chrome rear numberplate lamp, 1275 GT bootlid badge, pressed numberplates. Paint: Proton Burnt Orange with metallic black roof. ENGINE 1275 Metro A-plus rebored to 1293cc, Hepolite high-compression pistons, lightened and balanced crankshaft and con-rods, Piper 285 camshaft, Duplex timing chain, lightened flywheel, AP Racing clutch, modified ported and polished big-valve cylinder head, Aldon Yellow distributor, aluminium radiator, blue silicone hoses, twin 1.25-inch HS2 SU carbs with ram pipes and RamAir sock filters, Facet fuel pump, pressure regulator, stainless steel LCB manifold, custommade stainless steel twin-box centre-exit exhaust. TRANSMISSION Four-speed A-plus gearbox with straight-cut gearset, standard helical drop gears, 3.1:1-ratio final drive. SUSPENSION Refurbished subframes including replacement front manual item, Mini Sport Adjusta Rides, bottom arms, tie-rods and rear camber/track brackets, Spax adjustable dampers, polybushed all round. BRAKES 7.5-inch disc assemblies with Mini Sport four-pot callipers and EBC Greenstuff pads (front), finned aluminium drums (rear), yellow tag master cylinder, braided hoses. WHEELS AND TYRES 6x10-inch John Brown Wheels Mamba alloys, 165/70x10 Yokohama A032R tyres. INTERIOR Cobra Classic bucket seats with rear seats trimmed to match, TRS harnesses, drilled door furniture, quickshift with extended gear lever, centre binnacle with Cooper 100mph speedo, Smith’s rev counter, exposed painted dash rails, custom polished aluminium switch panel, Minivation cup holders, Mountney 13-inch woodrim steering wheel, six-point Safety Devices rollcage powder-coated in silver.

54

Low-back Cobra buckets are a timeless choice.

and boring it to 1293cc, fitting highcompression Hepolite pistons, balancing the crank and con-rods, and fitting a Piper 285 camshaft. There’s also a lightened flywheel, an AP Racing clutch set-up, Duplex timing gear and an Aldon fast-road distributor, while Ashley’s grandad has applied a little extra magic to the ported and polished bigvalve cylinder head. An aluminium radiator and blue silicone hoses deal with the cooling, while fuelling is via twin 1.25-inch SU carbs fed via a Facet fuel pump and a separate pressure regulator. With a pair of ram pipes for the carbs, the induction roar is somewhat addictive. Elsewhere, a Specialist Components stainless LCB links to a full stainless system custom-made for the car by Ashley’s girlfriend’s brother, which has subsequently been polished to a mirror finish. There’s also a bit of extra under-bonnet bling in the

shape of DSN RetroSport engine steadies, and though you can’t normally fit the combined thermostat and steady bar set-up with twin SUs, Ashley was able to modify the position of the bulkhead plate to make it all work. As for the gearbox, that’s been rebuilt with a straight-cut gearset. “The diff is standard at the moment but at some point I will put a four-pin one in there,” says Ashley. “I’ve changed the final drive to a 3.1:1 ratio, as we’re planning on doing a lot of travelling with it.” To complement the Mini Sport suspension kit, Ashley turned to the Padiham-based specialist for the brake set-up too. He’s fitted 7.5-inch solid discs up front with four-pot aluminium callipers, and there are a pair of finned aluminium drums at the rear. Goodridge braided hoses have also gone on all round, and the servo has been removed in favour of a yellow tag


CUSTOM 1293 CITY

Simple painted dash rails with Minivation cup holders both sides. We love the gear lever extension.

tandem master cylinder. Ashley is a real fan of Mamba wheels, and having fitted a set of the Halifax-made originals to his yellow Mini, he went for a set of the modern 6x10inch John Brown Wheels versions clad in sticky Yokohama A032R rubber for this car. Great care has been taken to refurbish or replace just about everything, and that includes the underside. “I rubbed it all down, and my girlfriend Becki painted all the underside in black Hammerite, including all the floor and under the arches,” he says. “The underneath is as good as on top.”

THE RIGHT STUFF

But it’s the bits you can see that you can see that really make this car stand out. Ashley’s been relentless in his quest to get the car looking right, even if that meant doing things several times. “Over the time I’ve bought four different types of arches and three different types of door mirrors,” he confesses. “Basically, if something doesn’t look right on the car, I won’t keep it on there. I purchased a set of Monte Carlo arches when I younger, but the way they fitted didn’t seem right, so I sold them. Then I bought some Group 2s, but it didn’t like the way they sat on the wings, and I bought a third set that were too wide. In the end I went with the standard ones – the funny thing is that they were the cheapest, but

Custom switch panel and 100mph speedo.

It’s mint in here, too.

“I’m not a fan of 13-inch wheels and big wide arches – I like it old school...” fitted the best! I also bought two types of chrome bullet mirrors, but neither suited the car. I was then going to run with just a clip-on mirror for the MoT, but then I saw some Caterham kit car mirrors at a show, and purchased a set from eBay. Despite these detail changes though, Ashley has remained true to his early visions. “The thought I had in my head it almost exactly how it came out,” he says. “I always wanted something that was quite ‘60s looking, low and wide with small wheels. I’m not a fan of 13-inch wheels and big wide arches – I like it old school.” The same classic emphasis has been extended to the interior. Having such a

thorough paint job meant the padded dash rails could be removed in favour of the exposed painted metalwork. “I just wanted it plain and simple,” says Ashley. “I made the switch panel from aluminium that I polished up with Autosol, and the centre speedo is a 100mph version from a ‘60s Cooper. My grandad has had so many Minis over the years, and it was basically found in a box. He wasn’t using it, so he passed it on to me. It’s got a Smiths rev counter too.” Other neat touches include powdercoating the Safety Devices ‘cage in silver, a Mountney wood-rim steering wheel and a couple of Minivation cup holders on the lower dash rail, which Ashley took a

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CUSTOM 1293 CITY

The former Metro engine has been bored to 1293cc and comprehensively tweaked. It’s beautifully presented, too.

fancy to after picking up a set of its fullyarticulated bonnet hinges. A neat extension piece on the quickshift gear lever puts it in easy reach of the Cobra Classic front seats with their TRS harnesses, and the rear seat has been trimmed to match by a local firm. “The drilled interior handles and the chrome wiper arms, jets and scuttle plugs were the first things I bought for the car,” Ashley reports. “I got them from the Bristol Mini Day, which was my first ever Mini show. That’s where my dad found the twin carbs, too.”

SHOW STOPPER

The car has only been together since the beginning of March, but Ashley has already taken it to its first event, the Westcountry Mini Scene gathering in Plymouth. “It’s been built to be used,” he says. “We’re planning on doing Brands Hatch and Santa Pod, and maybe a few trackdays too.” “I have got a few things I still like to do,” he adds. “I’ve got some chrome pedals on it currently, but they’re a bit too big, so I want to put the DSN ones on there. I’d also like to fit a centre console and a CD player, because we haven’t got in any music in it. But I suppose the gearbox provides enough music

56

Ashley and Becki plan to take the car to plenty of shows this summer.

at the minute!” There’s also Ashley’s yellow Mini to consider, which is set to be another project, and his grandad’s Clubman, which is currently on a spit being welded. For the moment though, it’s all about enjoying the car that he envisaged all those years ago. It’s been a long time coming, but going by this evidence, well worth the wait.

THANKS TO: Ashley would like to thank: “Grandad for the space, tools and help, my dad, Bridwell House for the shoot location, Pat at the garage for helping me with a lot of the little bits and my girlfriend.”


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SPACEFRAME TURBO

TOTAL LIGH Rick Jessop’s striking Clubman may look like a well-sorted track car from the outside, but there’s a whole lot more to it than that... Words Jeff Ruggles Photography Matt Woods

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SPACEFRAME TURBO

HTWEIGHT A

t first glance you’d never suspect anything. Sure, there’s a dirty great intercooler hanging out of the grille, plastic windows and slick tyres, but the perfect shiny paint, steel front end and even the proper narrow sills belie the true nature of Rick Jessop’s stunning Mini. It’s obviously a pretty serious bit of kit – a Clubman-fronted Miglia rival perhaps – but it’s only when you peer inside it becomes apparent that there’s a whole lot more to this striking creation than initially meets the eye. A lot more, but paradoxically a lot less, too. You won’t find the normal exposed floorpans, inner

sills or rear bulkhead you’d normally expect to see in a stripped-out Mini, but a beautiful web of intricate metal tubes and aluminium panelling in their place instead. Yep, this isn’t just a tidy looking track car, it’s a radical spaceframed one-off built to an incredibly high standard – oh, and it’s turbocharged too. No wonder it’s taken the best of part of a decade to complete...

UPPING STANDARDS

Rick knows a thing or two or about turning out top-notch builds, working alongside his dad and younger bother for the family business, Jessop Motor Bodies in Wakefield. Minis have always been heavily involved too, as Rick explains. “When I was 15 I bought a Sandglow Clubman Estate out of the local paper for something like £150, and it was still MoT’d. I used it for messing

about, trying to learn to weld and trying to learn to fill. To be honest, my dad probably did the bulk of the work on that one! “We ended up selling it on, and I bought a white Advantage to pass my test in,” he continues. “It was the usual thing... we striped the doors off, then the wings and the sills. The boot floor had fallen out, and it got to the point where it was virtually a bare shell. So I ended up getting another Mini in the meantime to actually use.” Nevertheless, work on the Advantage would eventually progress. “The plan was to build it back up and move it on,” says Rick, “but once the paint was done it was too good to sell, so I thought I may as well build it as a toy to have alongside my other one. I had a turbo engine built by MED, and I fitted a pair of bucket seats and a six-point bolt-in ‘cage. I used it for a couple of summers,

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The two-tone paint has an essence of the ‘60s Alan Mann Escorts about it, but with a more modern twist.

Forward Motorsport in nearby Barnsley. Dean now has several people working for him, doing everything from basic set-ups to full-on, ground-up builds. Back then though, he was still a one-man band, with Rick’s spaceframe a total one-off. The shell effectively acted as a jig, with Dean adding INTO SPACE bits to it and cutting the old metal away Soon after starting work on the MkI shell when he was done. “It’s not been something however, the project would take on a more built on the bench that’s had a shell popped serious turn. “Although I can weld panels on over the top – it’s basically been built inside and put floors in, I wanted a proper Miglia- the Mini,” says Rick. “As a one-off it was spec ‘cage putting in it,” Rick explains. easier to do it that way, but if you were “With all the welds on show the joins had to making a conversion kit, you would have look right, so I went to see a local lad and we made a jig so you could repeat it time and got talking. The plan was always to keep the time again.” car long term, but the only downside to that Effectively, Dean started in the middle was the rust. If I’d have rebuilt the MkI 10 The radical nature of this build is years ago, I would probably be putting sills immediately apparent inside. on now, or fitting a floor. So the crazy theory behind it was that if I got rid of all that, there was nothing to corrode. All I’ve got now is essentially an outer skin with a roof, rear quarters and door frames; there’s no floors, no bulkhead, no boot floor and no inner sills.” But it wasn’t just about stopping rust – the idea of a spaceframed Mini had its own unique appeal. “Years and years ago, when there wasn’t so much on the internet, I liked the idea of building a proper Maguire spaceframed Mini,” he explains. “Trying to find any information was hard, but I could see that the fibreglass shells didn’t have proper sills on. I wanted it to have a proper sill, so it still looked like a normal Mini from the outside.” In order for the frame to be built, Rick delivered the rolling MkI shell to Dean and then a MkI shell came along. The idea was to build it into a proper lightweight racer with a weld-in cage and a fibreglass front, so the turbo engine was taken out of the Advantage and I sold the shell to another lad who was building a road car.”

60

and worked outwards. “He built a square and sat that in the car, then braced it in between where the seats and tunnel go,” Rick explains. “Once he’d made the floor he built the rollcage around it, then tied that into the front subframe. The front subframe was already bolted up in the car, so he’s managed cut out bits of the front bulkhead to bring the tubes through to meet it, before cutting the rest of the bulkhead away. “It’s still got the lower part of the Mini front subframe, which took out the guesswork of mounting an engine in a load of tubes,” adds Rick. “In theory it uses the standard Mini geometry – the only thing that’s different is that the top arm is a mirror image of the lower arm and tie-rod


SPACEFRAME TURBO

THE BUILD

Keen to save weight and stop rust, Rick opted for a full custom spaceframe to be built inside his MkI shell. Plenty of graft, a new outer skin, a modified 1293cc turbo motor and nearly a decade later, it’s finally ready to hit the track.

Genuine MkI rear panel sections were used for the rear lamps.

“It’s not been something built on the bench that’s had a shell popped over the top...” set up. At the rear it’s got some lightweight steel radius arms that I bought from John Kimmins at Specialist Components years ago. They’re fastened to the rollcage itself rather than to a rear beam or subframe, but they are still sat in the same place as they would be on a normal Mini.” The final frame is hugely comprehensive, and includes a custom pedal box and a Rose-jointed steering column, as well the provision for the internal gear change and the top mounts for the coil-over suspension units. “The seats and pedals are a lot further back than a normal Mini,” says Rick. “And

Carbon-fibre dash tower with custom internal gear linkage set-up and fire extinguisher.

because everything is further back, there’s loads of space for the turbo and exhaust under the bonnet.” However, there was still plenty of work to do. “When I got it back, you put your foot straight through the tubes on to the concrete floor,” says Rick. “I worked out what to panel and how to do it, knowing I obviously had to put a floor in. For the front bulkhead I didn’t want to just rivet aluminium panels over the tubing, so I’ve welded little tags to the framework, then inlayed the panelling so that it’s inset and you can still see the frame.” Indeed, the panelling is extremely neat, particularly the rear inner arches where the KAD anti-roll bar passes through, and the curved rear firewall arrangement. “The exhaust was going to sit alongside the fuel tank and enter through the bootlid, but with the fuel pump and fuel lines, it all looked a bit close,” says Rick. “I had a local sheet metal guy make up the shape for the exhaust tunnel, but all the rest of the flat panelling

Rick’s looking forward to getting out on track.

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SPACEFRAME TURBO

THE BUILD CONTINUED...

That curved rear bulkhead is a work of art. The pedal set-up is completely bespoke.

Proper bucket seat and harness for the driver.

Stack dash unit was a second-hand buy.

Sparco wheel on custom Rose-jointed column.

“The roof ended up inside out and the rest of the panels weren’t much better...” added a removable Clubman front end while he was at it. “I bought a fibreglass front, but the quality was poor,” he says. “So I welded some steel panels together and made my own. The bonnet and boot are fibreglass BODY BEAUTIFUL though. The bonnet’s a bit rippled, but I The new frame initially had the MkI outer wasn’t going to put a steel one because of the skin welded on, but Rick wasn’t happy with weight. You could probably get a better the condition of it. “The MkI needed all new quality fibreglass front now, so I may look at panels or a lot of filler,” he says. “I had it that in future to get the weight down.” blasted, but didn’t explain what I wanted As for the doors, the steel frames have doing, so the roof ended up inside out and been retained, but they’ve been hollowed the rest of the panels weren’t much better. I out and had aluminium outer skins fitted. got offered a mint shell cheap, so I ended up The inner panels are also aluminium, but using that instead.” with a neat swaged line that also features on Rick fitted his new shell with the MkI rear the top of the dash and what would be the light panels salvaged from the old one, and rear parcel shelf. “It puts strength in the is what I’ve made. It’s been a case of making cardboard templates to ensure it will fit. The panelling is thicker for the floors as they needed to be more substantial.”

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Although the car is wild in appearance, there’s little evidence of the spaceframe from the outside.

Fuel filler cap has been made flush to the body.

Swaged aluminium panels inside the doors.

panel and stops it vibrating, as well as being good for the aesthetics,” says Rick. “A friend of mine has a really old beading tool. It’s basically two rollers with a winding handle. When you get to a corner you have to try and turn it, so it was a bit of nightmare.” But not as much of a nightmare as painting the spaceframe and the panelling – a job made doubly difficult by Rick’s insistence that they couldn’t be the same colour. So, in between swapping shells, he sat the bare frame on axle stands in the spray booth and painted it in Honda Thunder Grey. The inside of the shell and panelling meanwhile, were coated in Honda Storm Silver, with final touch ups made

when everything was welded back together. “If you look at the kit cars that people build, the aluminium panelling can start to look tatty very fast. I decided to paint everything aluminium so it would keep for longer. The simple solution would’ve been to weld the shell on, fasten the alloy panelling and lean inside to paint all the inside the same colour like a normal car. But I didn’t want to do it like that – I wanted to show that the frame was separate.” As for the outside, that’s now Porsche Riviera Blue, with the top half and the fibreglass bumpers in the same Honda silver as the inside. “I don’t really know why I ended with the blue, but I’d always liked it,” says Rick. “I could’ve painted it any colour I wanted, but that just makes the process of choosing one harder. If you’ve got a MkI Cooper you pick a MkI Cooper colour, but this could’ve been anything really. I’d seen

You can see why the back end is so light in here...

old Minis with the top painted a different colour round to the scuttle, and always thought it looked interesting.” Separating the metallic and solid colours from each other is a neat pinstripe – painted on obviously – but you wont feel a ridge between the two. “The whole car has been lacquered, so if you run your hand over it, you can’t feel an edge,” says Rick. “I could’ve just masked it and had an edge there like a normal pinstripe, but I didn’t want that – that’s not what I do. I’ve probably added more weight with all the lacquer, but I wanted it to have a nice paint finish.”

TURBO POWER

So remarkable is the body treatment that any discussions about the engine almost seem like a footnote, but with a fully lightened and balanced bottom end, forged pistons and an 11-stud MED Forced

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SPACEFRAME TURBO TECH SPEC BODY Steel outer bodyshell with one-off custom spaceframe chassis painted Honda Thunder Grey, removable Clubman steel front end, fibreglass boot and bonnet with pins, fibreglass bumpers, carbon-fibre Miglia arches, Plastics 4 Performance Lexan windows, SPA race mirrors, drilled door handles, genuine MkI rear lamp panels, no rear valance. Paint: Porsche Riviera Blue with Honda Storm Silver top half, bumpers and pin stripe. ENGINE MED-built 1293 plus forced induction A-plus A-Series, lightened and balanced crank, steel main strap, lightened and balanced con-rods, ARP rod bolts, forged Omega pistons, MED 11-stud Forced Induction Special cylinder head, 1.5-ratio roller-tip rockers, Kent 266 cam, MED steel Vernier Duplex timing chain, ultra light steel flywheel and back plate, Alcon paddle clutch plate, grey AP diaphragm, Megajolt ECU, Ford coil pack and EDIS module, Tom Fenton machined trigger wheel and bracket, rebuilt T3 turbocharger with 360-degree bearing, Metro Turbo manifold, Custom Tony Law 2.5-inch bore exhaust with re-packable silencer, Forge Motorsport universal intercooler, Nic Rizzardini stainless plenum chamber, high torque starter, lightweight alternator, custom Fusion Fabrications alloy radiator, Meziere alloy coolant pump with SH Engineering water pump blank, Mocal oil cooler with oil filter sandwich plate, ITG air filter, custom Tom Fenton wiring loom, Sytec fuel pump and filter, RCI foam-filled fuel tank, braided fuel lines, SH Engineering oil filter housing, SPAL cooling fan.

Huge intercooler is a big clue to what’s under the bonnet.

TRANSMISSION Jack Knight straight-cut closeratio four-speed gearbox, straight-cut drop gears, Quaife ATB differential, 3.7:1-ratio helical final drive. SUSPENSION Protech coil-overs with Eibach/ Hypercoil springs, Mini Spares adjustable bottom arms, KAD tie-rods, custom top arm set-up, Specialist Components steel radius arms, KAD rear anti-roll bar, Specialist Components alloy rear hubs, rose-jointed steering arms. BRAKES KAD six-pot callipers, vented 8.4-inch discs and Mintex pads (front) modified Minifin drums (rear), one-off pedal box, AP front/rear master cylinders, adjustable bias knob, braided brake lines throughout. WHEELS AND TYRES 7x10-inch Force Racing ST10 centre lock wheels with blue anodised spokes and titanium finish rims, Dunlop Miglia slicks (dry), 7x10-inch Force Racing wheels modified for centre lock, Riviera Blue painted centres and polished rims, Yokohama A032R tyres (wet). INTERIOR Custom aluminium panelling in Honda Storm Silver, Sparco fibreglass bucket seat, Sabelt harness, Curley carbon-fibre dash tower, Stack dash unit, AEM air/fuel gauge, roof-mounted switches, plumbed-in fire extinguisher, internal battery and battery cut-off, relocated gear lever housing with custom linkage, one-off pedal box with custom pedals, bespoke Rose-jointed steering column, Sparco steering wheel, aluminium doorcards with custom beading.

Induction Special cylinder head, there’s no denying it’s pretty special. Recent changes have been minimal however. “It’s not been in bits since it was build by MED about 12 years ago,” says Rick. “We swapped the distributor for a Megajolt ECU as that seemed like a natural progression, and it’s

64

Gorgeous centre lock Force Racing wheels.

The exhaust is raised up as high as possible.

“It’s got a really low compression ratio, so it should take a lot more boost...” got the Forge Motorsport intercooler set-up. The gearbox was originally a Jack Knight straight-cut close-ratio one that I bought second-hand, and MED rebuilt that. It had a Mini Spares cross-pin diff but I’ve replaced it with a Quaife one. Otherwise it’s all the same internally.” Rick has also retained the Metro manifold and T3 turbo unit, although the latter has been rebuilt with a 360-degree bearing. “That was done when I first started rebuilding the car, and a local company made the exhaust system for me. Ideally now I’d fit the more modern GT20 turbo I’ve got, but the downpipe has been made to bolt direct to the exhaust housing on the turbo to do away with the troublesome elbow and clamp, so it would have to be cut and altered. As the existing turbo is newlyrebuilt anyway, I thought I may as well try it

out. It can be changed later on if needs be.” During its last rolling road session the car reached 137bhp at the flywheel on 12psi of boost, but that was with the clutch slipping. “At around 14psi it should give a nice easy 150bhp,” says Rick. “It’s got forged pistons and a really low compression ratio of 7.5:1, so it should take a lot more boost – say 20-25psi. The thing is though, I want to enjoy using it and keep it reliable, and because of the weight, it should be plenty quick enough. Any more power and it’ll send me into another corner somewhere! It’s 544kg, and that’s with a good 15 kilos worth of fuel in it and all the fluids.” With a potential power-to-weight ratio of around 300bhp per tonne, the suspension and brakes have naturally been fettled to cope. Joining the adjustable geometry provisions all round are Protech coil-overs


The MED 1293cc turbo unit was built more than 12 years ago, but is still very capable.

(with Eibach springs on the front and Hypercoil versions on the rear), with KAD six-pot front callipers on vented discs to bring it to a stop. The rear brake set-up features aluminium drums with the fins shaved off, and there are three master cylinders too – one for the clutch, one for the front brakes and one for the rear, with an adjustable bias control in there too. Concealing the brakes are a set of 7x10inch Force Racing V4 Wheels with painted Riviera Blue centres and Yokohama A032R tyres for the wet, while a set of ST10 fourspokes with anodised centres, titaniumfinish rims and Dunlop Miglia slicks go on in the dry. Both sets use a trick centre lock fixing. “These are the first set of four spokes without the holes for the normal wheel nuts,” says Rick. “In place of where the normal wheel studs would go there are bolts in the drive flange, with a locating hole machined in the back of each spoke to locate the wheel. In theory the big nut just holds the wheel in place, as that alone won’t stop the wheel from spinning on itself.” Finishing off the trick spaceframed interior is a Sparco fibreglass bucket seat with Sabelt harness, a Sparco steering wheel and all the regular safety provisions, such as a battery cut-off switch and plumbed-in fire extinguisher. Extra switches have been

KAD six-pot callipers join vented front discs.

Shaved drums and an anti-roll bar at the rear.

it’s not been anywhere,” says Rick. “Trends change and new things come out, so you try and keep up. The rear arms for example are available in billet now, so that would save some more weight.” For the moment though, Rick can finally think about enjoying his many years of hard work. “I’ve had a couple of Escort Cosworths, I’ve had a Porsche, and done TRACK TIME trackdays in them and used them as my Although the car is now effectively normal road cars, but the Mini is solely a complete, we can expect it to continue toy,” he explains. “I’ve booked a trackday at evolving in the future. “Some of it’s been Cadwell Park, and I’d like to do a bit of together for eight years, so there are bits that hillclimbing too. Basically it’s time to go and need to come out for refreshing even though have fun with it...”

located in a neat roof-mounted panel, while a Curley carbon-fibre dash has been cut down to leave just the central tower, housing an AEM air/fuel ratio gauge and a trick Stack display. “I bought the Stack dash second-hand,” says Rick. “It keeps things simple, and if I’d bought every gauge at £50, it would’ve cost more anyway.”

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MINI COOPER S

STAGE-S Words Martyn Morgan-Jones Photography Gerard Hughes

He’s famous for being the hellraising stage and film actor who starred in Lawrence of Arabia, but Peter O’Toole had a real fondness for his ‘66 Cooper S too. And after being stored since 1991, it’s now back on the road...

R

eaders of a certain age will likely have mourned the passing of Peter O’Toole, who exited stage left for the final time in December 2013 at the age of 81. Acutelyhandsome, charismatic, hard-drinking, fast-living and hell-raising, but above all a consummate actor, O’Toole found stardom in the ‘60s thanks to playing the lead role in David Lean’s ‘62 cinematic epic, Lawrence of Arabia. And it was during this hedonistic and hugely-transforming decade that he bought a Morris Mini Cooper S, registration GOY 758D, from BMC dealer Stewart & Arden on North London’s Finchley Road. Despite the Mini’s trendy appeal for ‘60s hipsters, this wasn’t some random choice borne out of mere affectation. O’Toole didn’t just go for any Mini, he went for the Cooper S – the hottest of the breed – and requested that the engine be tuned to make

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MINI COOPER S

TRUCK

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The car has been customised, but remains very understated. Perfect for a famous actor!

Chrome mirrors set off the Jaguar green paint.

Peter went for the top of the range Cooper S.

it even hotter. Stewart & Arden duly obliged, and its technicians bored the delivery-mileage 1275 S motor to 1293cc, installed a 544 (Formula Junior) camshaft, lightly skimmed the head, changed the needles and jets, and fitted a six-bladed fan. The reciprocating components were balanced and lightened as well. O’Toole would often eulogise about the way the Mini performed, stating that it had a ‘race-tuned’ engine. That’s not quite true, but with around 90bhp, it was certainly a step or two above your usual fast-road set-up.

COSTUME CHANGE

In addition to the engine upgrades, O’Toole also paid for a number of cosmetic changes. Nobody’s been able to put forward a reason why, but before he took ownership, he asked Stewart & Arden to change the colour from its original Almond Green and Old English White to Jaguar British Racing Green. And that was just the beginning. Keen to

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Cosmic alloy wheels were a 1960s favourite.

“O’Toole would often eulogise about the way the Mini performed...” personalise the Mini further, O’Toole requested that it was to be fitted with Cosmic alloy wheels, a Moke sump guard, an automatic reversing light, a stick-on Lucas heated rear window set-up and front fog/spot lamps, which were mounted on the overriders. Not that these amendments looked over-indulgent – in fact, the overall effect is rather restrained. The interior also benefitted from a raft of improvements including Karobes front seat covers, which necessitated the rear seats being painted a matching black, a centre console, a leather-covered steering wheel, a wooden dashboard, extra instrumentation, a steering column drop bracket, a radio, a Paddy Hopkirk throttle pedal, inertia-reel seatbelts, SPQR ashtray bins and cigarette lighters in the front and rear. Yep, you did read that correctly – O’Toole, a chain

smoker, asked for a lighter to be fitted in the rear. Despite being six foot two inches tall, he would often sit in the rear perusing his latest script, or having a ‘snifter’ while en route to a party, lighting up one cigarette after another. His chauffeur, Lionel Bryant, would often be charged with the task of threading the Mini through London’s everincreasing traffic. Yep, you read that bit correctly too – this Mini was often chauffeur-driven! The records show that it was also properly maintained, and occasionally improved. In 1968, the car went back to Stewart & Arden, where indicator repeaters were fitted on the front wings for safety reasons, and it was goodbye to the old three-synchro MkI gearbox and hello to a four-synchro MkII version. London was very congested, even back then, not to mention the number of


MINI COOPER S The Cooper S motor was bored to 1293cc and tweaked by Stewart & Arden. It’s thought to be good for around 90bhp.

and authenticity of his restorations, and couldn’t resist adding to his classic Mini collection. “GOY 758D was put up for sale,” Dave recalls. “This was back in 2010. Then, not long after, it was withdrawn. I happened to know one of the people who’d worked for Peter O’Toole and he told me that Peter had decided not to sell the Mini. Instead, he was thinking about having it restored and putting it back on the road. He then asked if I’d be interested in doing the work.

Peter’s name on the old reg document.

traffic lights and junctions a typical journey would entail. Having a non-synchro first gear was obviously baulking smooth and swift progress.

Auxiliary Lucas lamps have been fitted to the bumper overriders.

Although I hadn’t seen the car, I knew about it and was very interested. I visited Peter on a number of occasions to discuss the restoration. He was really charming, very respectful, and remarkably down-to-earth. He talked a lot about the car, and where he’d driven it. It obviously meant a great deal to him. Then, some time later, things went quiet, probably because of his illness.” Sadly, before Dave got the go ahead and could roll up his sleeves and get stuck in, O’Toole succumbed to an illness he’d been bravely battling for many years. Following his funeral, it was announced in the press (amongst other surprising disclosures) that the car had been left to his teenage granddaughter, Jessica. Because of this, Dave fully expected the Mini to be put up for auction, and that he’d never get to

SUPPORTING ROLE

This Mini must really have resonated with O’Toole. Despite owning a number of prestige cars such as a Jaguar, Daimler, Bentley, and even a Chevrolet, GOY 758D was in regular use until 1991, by which time it had clocked up 62,000 miles. It was also during 1991 that this much-loved car was taken off the road, but not sold. Tucked up safely in O’Toole’s heated garage, it remained in his affections until very recently, which was when Dave Boswell entered the story. Dave is renowned for the sublime quality

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MINI COOPER S

Period deep-dish steering wheel looks great.

Wooden dash was an essential accessory.

The dash gained a rev counter and ammeter.

TECH SPEC BODY 1966 Morris Mini Cooper 1275 S, restored with new sills and nearside wing, reversing light, front spot/fog lamps, Lucas 700 headlamps, chrome wing mirrors, side repeaters. Repainted in Jaguar British Racing Green. ENGINE 1275cc Cooper S engine, rebored to 1293cc, a 544 (Formula Junior) camshaft, lightly skimmed cylinder head, twin 1.25-inch HS2 SU carbs with modified needles, Lucas sports coil, sixblade fan, Mini Moke sump guard. Estimated power: 90bhp. TRANSMISSION Later model four-synchro remote change gearbox. SUSPENSION Original Hydrolastic ‘wet’ set-up. BRAKES Cooper S 7.5-inch disc assemblies (front), spaced drums (rear), servo assistance. WHEELS AND TYRES 4.5x10-inch Cosmic alloys, 145/80/10 Dunlop SP Sport tyres. INTERIOR Karobes seat covers with rear seat painted black to match, centre console, Strada deep-dish leather-bound steering wheel, wooden dashboard with extra ammeter, rev counter switches and warning lights, radio, Paddy Hopkirk throttle pedal, inertia-reel seatbelts, SPQR ashtray bins, cigarette lighters front and rear, stick-on Lucas heated rear window element.

70

The Karobes seat covers were among a raft of interior modifications.

work on it. Then he received a phone call. “I was contacted by the family,” reveals Dave. “They were well aware of my discussions with Peter, and of his intentions for the Mini. It transpired that the family didn’t wish to keep the Mini. Rather, they would prefer to sell it and put the money towards Jessica’s schooling. I had a number of discussions with Patricia O’Toole, we settled on a figure, and I bought the Mini. Not only was I was thrilled to own it; I was determined to do what Peter and I had discussed and undertake the car’s The Mini attracts plenty of attention at shows, and it’s not hard to see why.

restoration. I felt that this would be a fitting legacy. Many famous personalities have owned Minis of course, but few have held them in such esteem, or have owned them for so long.”

SYMPATHETIC RESTO

Having to fit the restoration around his many other projects, the restoration took Dave two years to complete. Although the bodyshell was in good condition, the paintwork had suffered due to the car being in storage for such a long time. Not one to


MINI COOPER S

The back seats have been re-coloured black.

The centre console is also from Karobes.

SPQR ashtray bins are fitted to the doors.

Radio alongside one of two cigarette lighters.

Plenty of sporty upgrades for the driver, but O’Toole would often sit in the back and be chauffeur driven, too.

and new Hydrolastic pipes. The displacers were still perfect.” To perform such accurate restorations on cars like this, Dave uses period cellulose paint. He also refurbishes and reinstates as take any shortcuts, Dave decided to strip the filler, lots of it in fact, and panel-beat the many of the original components as car to its component parts and begin from dents out,” says Dave. “And though the possible. To Dave, such methods are the ground up. bodyshell was in too good a condition to imperative in order to retain a tangible link With the help of a good friend, Tony have needed its sills replacing, a London to a car’s past and its former owner, Clegg, the bodyshell was rubbed back to garage had carried out this work. The wrong especially one as well-known as Peter bare metal. It was during this process the six-fluted sills had been fitted, so I used the O’Toole. “I had all of the original pair discovered a number of the dents had correct four-fluted type. I also replaced the chromework redone,” he says. “Many of the been filled during a tidy-up performed nearside front wing which was showing parts had actually survived very well. What many years ago. “I was able to remove the signs of rust, and fitted a new rear subframe surprised me the most though, was the

“I was determined to retain as much of the interior patina as possible...”

The car remains remarkably original, but has been treated to a new pair of the correct four-vent sills and a respray in period cellulose paint.

71


MINI COOPER S Dave reckons the car is a pleasure to drive, and can understand why Peter O’Toole liked it so much.

condition of the window and door rubbers, and the carpet. The rubbers were like new and look fantastic. The carpet was in great condition too, and just needed a gentle clean. I was determined to retain as much of the interior patina as possible.”

FINE FETTLE

The condition of the engine, which is also original, also surprised Dave. “I expected to have to do a complete overhaul, but it was in fantastic condition,” he explains. “There

The monotone Jaguar Racing Green really suits this stunning Cooper S.

72

wasn’t a mark in the bores or on the crankshaft. Even the bearings were perfect. All I did was fit a new Duplex timing chain, a new clutch, overhaul the carburettors, weld a hairline crack in the exhaust manifold up and fit a new cast iron water pump. The engine is a gem. I own a number of race-tuned Minis, but this car’s performance is almost as good. It’s so smooth and free-revving. And the gearbox is first-rate too. It’s such a lovely car to drive, and it’s no wonder Peter liked it so much.”

It’s clear that Dave is the ideal custodian for this very special Cooper S. He really empathises with the early Mini, and has a sympathetic and period-authentic approach to their restoration. That explains why GOY 758D doesn’t look as if it’s been restored – instead, it looks just as it did when Peter O’Toole was driving it back in the late ‘60s. If he could see this car now, he’d surely be delighted. And, in-keeping with his thespian roots, he’d probably give it a standing ovation.


Wood and Pickett Mini Centre Limited Old Station Approach, Leatherhead, Surrey KT22 7TE Find us on

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MINI 7 ARCHIVE

Mick Osborne leads Clive Trickey, Sean Wiles and Ron Mason at Brands Hatch, July 1970.

MINI 7 INTO THE ‘70s

The Mini 7 Racing Club’s second decade saw a host of new drivers take to the grid and the rise of a secondary formula, the wide-ached Mini Miglias with their tuned 998cc engines…

C

Words Richard Williamson and Stephen Colbran Photography Mini 7 archive

ontinuing our series on the Mini 7 Racing Club’s 50th anniversary, this issue we’ve delved into the club’s fascinating image archive from 1970 through to 1975, a pivotal six years of entry-level motorsport before things took on a whole new squarefronted flavour. But more on that in the next instalment; for now here’s a look at the turn of the decade, one that brought about big hair, even bigger flares, the end of The Beatles and the rise of ABBA. Mini sales figures were at an

all-time high, still riding the publicity wave of ‘60s rallying success and of course buoyed on by the return of a global fuel crisis, tempting new car buyers to go small and frugal once again. Meanwhile, the Mini Cooper had been phased-out in favour of the BL’s new 1275 GT and the Mk3 Cooper S was barely publicised before succumbing to a similar cost-cutting fate in June ’71. Such trends were mirrored within the Mini 7 Racing Club, where the cost-conscious 850cc Formula Mini Se7en series continued to Thruxton hosted an action-packed first race of 1970, with large crowds enjoying the Se7ens.

74

thrive, attracting grids of 20-plus cars per round. A Motoring News update from late 1970 reported on the general downturn of UK club motorsport from 1969, citing the increasing costs across the board, but went on to praise the Mini 7 Racing Club for its budget-friendly ethos. The Formula Mini Se7en Bob Fox Trophy included 13 rounds across England in 1970, from Thruxton to Mallory Park, with 11 rounds introduced for the all-new Special Tuning Miglia Mini Championship. Just like the ‘70s sideburns and trousers, the Miglia engines were larger and their wheels and arch extensions wider than the Minis of the late ‘60s. The intention was to create a series for more experienced Se7en drivers to progress without leaving the club, with more power and more grip. The series was first trialled in 1969 but it wasn’t until April 1970 that drivers could score championship points. The club expanded to run the two formulas simultaneously, a recipe that has continued to this day. Things started quite slowly for the Miglias however, with just three entries in a mixed race of Janspeed Challenge cars at Thruxton. Races would


James Burrows with his Swiftunepowered Se7en at Castle Combe, 1970.

often be shared with Special Saloons or reserves from the over-subscribed Se7ens. Sean Wiles of the Newbridge Racing team got off to a flying start, but it was Mick Osborne who emerged victorious by the season’s end, taking six wins in his Roger Colson-prepared 998cc racer. The win handed him the number one status for the following season, plus a spot on Special Tuning’s display stand, surrounded by the latest Mini tuning goodies, at an indoor exhibition during the winter break. Over in the original 850cc Mini Se7ens, 25-year-old Len Brammer dominated in his Downton-tuned machine, taking nine wins and a haul of lap records as the competition grew ever more fierce. “This is only an introduction to motoring – if things go well I hope to try a higher formula,” he said after taking the crown. Ian Briggs and Jim Burrows were also regulars on the podium, Ian finishing just four points adrift of the coveted number one spot. Clive Trickey of the popular Cars and Car Conversions magazine swapped from the Se7ens to the new Miglia formula during the year, installing a tuned-up 998 in a Mini Clubman and continuing to boost the profile of the club through regular updates. And there was Peter Baldwin too, who was starting out at

1969 saw the first 998cc Miglia Minis take to the circuits, but the championship began in 1970, supported by Special Tuning. James Burrows moved to a more powerful Miglia in 1971, still with a Swiftune engine.

“LEN BRAMMER DOMINATED IN HIS DOWNTON-TUNED MACHINE...”

Miglias charging hard at Brands Hatch, August 1971.

some of the more southerly rounds. He would go on to become the most successful Miglia driver of all time. Decimalisation introduced ‘the perfect 10’ to the UK’s currency in 1971, and Graham Wenham banked eight perfect 10s on his way to the Mini Se7en title in his immaculate Mick-tuned car. His closest challenger, David Sambell, picked up three wins and only failed to reach the podium twice in 14 starts, with the remaining wins coming from Tony Styles and Peter Drane. It was also the year of a spinoff series, so to speak, run by the Thames Estuary Automobile Club, or TEAC for short. These alternative Mini Se7en rounds were held

at Lydden Hill, Snetterton and Brands Hatch, where Mick Collard took three wins and was never off the podium, taking the championship in style. The Special Tuning Mini Miglia championship was hotting up with increased entries, although the 14-round season was a rather a two-horse affair between Mick Osborne and reigning Se7en champion


MINI 7 ARCHIVE Eric Groves’ 1971 Miglia contender.

Joe Rubie’s Se7en chases down a Special Saloon Mini at Brands Hatch in ‘72.

Paul Beckham in his MkI Se7en at Thruxton.

one win to the latter’s three. In the 850s, the outcome was a lot tighter over the 15 roundseason, but ultimately Armstrong’s seven wins made all the difference to secure the title. Mick Moss was a consistent challenger as four wins and five second places testify, with Chris Tyrrell, Danny Boulton and Tony Westbrook Len Brammer. Len continued with confidence championship for their racing.” chipping in with the wins too. Names old and new appeared on the top and scored 99 from a possible 100 points, with By ’73, sponsorship and commercial Mick just four points down after scoring four trophies in 1972, with Mick Osborne adding a viability were becoming ever more prevalent second Miglia Mini title to his tally, and Reg wins and nine further podiums. Armstrong fulfilling the promise shown in his in motorsport – many racers were now Meanwhile, Clive Trickey’s CCC Clubman sponsored, including Dudley Fisher, whose first two seasons to take the coveted Bob Fox became a competition prize for a lucky Trophy Mini Se7en title. For Osborne, it was a Miglia wore the logos of pop rock band Status magazine reader to win. Autosport magazine Quo! It was a year in which the club fought case of déjà vu in his 998 Uniflo Mayfield also spoke favourably of the series at the Miglia run by Roger Colson. A superb 11 wins hard to safeguard the future of both formulas. season’s end, with the following comment: from 13 starts gave him a comfortable margin It was also the year of a terrible crash at “There is far greater freedom of tuning Snetterton, which Chris Maries somehow over his rivals, even allowing him the luxury allowed and indeed the car of the champion, escaped from the mangled wreckage in one Len Brammer, which was prepared by Richard of missing two rounds. Best of the rest were piece. But on the positives, the racing was as Phil Spurling and Jim Burrows, with Longman, proved very competitive against close as ever up front. Spurling’s consistent podium placings just free formula 1-litres, which again means that After a faltering start it was Mick Moss who edging the runner-up spot, despite scoring owners of the cars are not restricted to the took nine wins and two second places from Wide slicks gave the new Miglias huge grip. That’s not going to end well... the last 11 rounds to win the Se7en championship. Outgoing champion Reg Armstrong opened the season with a brace of victories, but thereafter only finished once before curtaining his season early, and apart from two wins for Tony Westbrook and one apiece for Chris Tyrrell and David Sambell, nobody else got near. In the Miglias, Phil Spurling’s persistence after four seasons in the category was finally

“NAMES NEW AND OLD APPEARED ON THE TOP TROPHIES IN 1972...”

1973 Se7en champion Mick Moss.

Some interesting mid-race parking.

76

Chris Winter leads a close pack of 850cc Se7ens in 1973. Check out the extra cooling up front.


MINI 7 ARCHIVE

By 1974, the body mods had started to get pretty serious, with custom arch extensions, front spoilers and even brake ducts.

Don’t let a loose front end slow you down. Lydden Hill, 1974.

rewarded, dominating with 10 wins and he was even able to miss a couple of events. Despite the global fuel crisis in ’74 and plans to cut race times by 20 per cent, there seemed anything but a crisis in the ranks of Mini Se7en and Miglia Mini championships, with healthy entries throughout the season. Chris Tyrrell finally secured the Mini Se7en crown with a new-found reliability that saw him retire only once, scoring six wins, five seconds a third and fourth, having missed the first race. Consistency rather than outright pace gave Hugo Hoyle the runner-up spot, although he did win the opening round at

Carnage at Brands Hatch in 1975. Alan Seekings’ Mini Se7en with a huge front air dam at Silverstone.

Easy does it!

Jim Robertson’s Se7en at Snetterton in 1974.

Croft, while in third overall, Geoff Gilkes’ five wins from only nine starts showed he could have challenged Tyrrell to the wire. Russell Dell burst onto the Miglia scene with Ripspeed backing, securing the title by just two points from outgoing champ Phil Spurling. Russell even came back from a lateseason hospitalising crash at Snetterton to add a third victory to his five other podium visits, with Spurling perhaps ruing his late start to the season that still brought him five maximum scores. Miglia reliability was beginning to become a real issue for the field as the bhp levels and

Back when Ripspeed was a serious tuning brand.

speed increased. It seemed that development of the cars has been pushed to the absolute maximum, with many bodywork modifications also being prevalent on the fastest cars. But changes were afoot, and ’75 would be the final years of the Bob Fox Mini Se7en Championship and Peter Collins Miglia Mini Championship, as they became titled. A total of 66 drivers scored points in the Mini Se7ens, although 1971 champion Graham Wenham took nine wins of the first 12 rounds and went on to score a maximum 100 point tally. Terry Pudwell’s three wins marked him out as the leading chaser, with one win apiece from Jim Mancey, Chris Tyrrell, Alan Seekings, John West, Ron Cuthbert and Dick Williams in a packed 19-round series. In the Miglias, it was Alan Curnow who notched-up nine wins in all, even sharing his Longman-tuned car on occasions with brother Mike. The previous season’s champion, Russell Dell, dropped out of the title race at mid-season after five wins, while Steve Harris of Downton fame, Phil Spurling and Ian Briggs also took wins in 1975. Everything was set to change the following year amid an all-new sponsorship package from British Leyland. The 1275 GT series was on the way, with plenty of exciting racing still to come.

THANKS TO: Many thanks go to Richard Williamson for help compiling this feature. Richard has created some excellent Mini 7 Racing Club magazines detailing each year of the ‘70s, which can be ordered by e-mailing richard.williamson@mini7.co.uk

77



346333


Tech

HOW TO

Mini The essentials for keeping your Mini on the road. 84 ASK THE EXPERT

Our tech expert Keith Calver answers all your Mini technical queries.

88 PRODUCTS

A selection of all the latest goodies to lavish upon your beloved Mini.

90 CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Keith looks at the parts required and likely costs incurred when rebuilding an A-Series engine block.

94 OUR MINIS

Keith can finally get started on his Mini City, Stephen breathes easier, Jeff buys himself yet another Mini, and Ryan gets the Mighty ready to race.

BEFORE STARTING The first rule of working on cars and using tools of any kind is don’t be stupid. Make sure personal protective gear – goggles, gloves, ear defenders, masks and a set of overalls - are hanging on a hook in your garage and use them wisely. If you’re working with power tools, protective gear is essential. Never attempt to work under a car without supporting it securely using suitably strong axle stands. If you haven’t got a fire extinguisher, buy one and keep it near to hand. The bottom line? If you’re not completely confident of your own ability to complete any task safely, don’t even start it. Leave it to the experts.

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£349.95 £29.95 – speedo drive ada pter £69.95 – optional GPS rec eiver

C O N TA C T www.caigauge.com

01564 775522 www.digital-speedos.co.uk

D IF FI C U LT Y Words and Photography Stephen Colbran

TECH

C O ST

FIT AN ELECTRONIC CENTRE SPEEDOMETER With classic aesthetics and modern digital workings, this new centre speedo from Smiths is a fantastic upgrade.

W

e can never help but get drawn in by the cool gadgets and flashing lights of the digital dash displays and instruments at the shows. They can look perfect in a modified car, and can be especially handy if you’re building a non-ASeries Mini and need a higher rev range or more warning lamps. For a more original car, it’s tough to beat a Smiths centre clock speedo though, as fitted from ’59 right through to the mid-‘80s on certain models. Not only do they suit the Mini’s basic aesthetics, they also include an integral fuel gauge and all the essential dash warning lights. It truly keeps things simple. Caerbont Automotive Instruments, the manufacturer of Smiths instruments, has recently launched a new digital version of the classic centre clock, and it’s something we were very excited to get our hands on. This updated speedo is outwardly very similar, which is ideal, but internally it’s far more advanced. Turn the unit over and instead of bulb holders, a voltage regulator and a speedo cable drive input from the industrial revolution, there’s one simple plug connector on a billet aluminium casing. Perfectionists will most definitely approve, because the rear is usually visible from under the bonnet, often with a mass of untidy wiring and plastic cowling. There’s also internal LED lighting, a digital milometer and a choice of black or magnolia faces in either 90mph and 130mph designs.

But away from the aesthetics, the main advantage is that you can ditch the mechanical speedo cable and run a digital speed sender instead, therefore you can also reposition the unit more easily. Digital Speedos offers three different options for a Mini speed sensor – a speedo drive digital adapter (£29.95), a magnetic type for driveshaft mounting (£24.95), and a GPS receptor (£69.95). The Mini-specific digital adapter is the closest to a direct replacement, although access is incredibly tricky, as you’ll probably know if you’ve ever had to fit a new speedo cable. The magnetic sensor may take a bit of mounting ingenuity, whereas the GPS sensor is the simplest solution of all. With the GPS option the reading is irrelevant of wheel speed, functioning like a sat nav, albeit much faster at 10Hz verses 1Hz. Of course the signal will cut out in longer tunnels, which could be an issue on Euro road trips. It is road legal and will pass an MoT but not an IVA test. Ultimately the best choice depends on your DIY skills/patience and car usage. A replacement 130mph speedo costs around £175 new and 90mph options are only available second hand. This unit is £349.95 from Digital Speedos and other Mini specialists, plus the cost of the speed sensor. It’s just over twice the price, for the huge leap forward in both functionality and design, so these are sure to be very popular. Here’s how it fits…


HOW TO

2 1 With a traditional Smiths 130mph speedo beside the new unit, the similarities are clear. Only the digital panel in the centre gives the game away, which is used as a trip meter, milometer and set-up screen.

4 The other end is the tricky one. The speedo drive housing is located deep down in the engine bay. It’s easiest to reach from underneath – don’t forget the axle stands as you raise the car up and shimmy under with a torch and much patience.

7 The two side fixings can then be unscrewed to release the speedo head. On a MkII-onwards moulded oval cowl, you’ll need a stubby Pozidriv screwdriver to undo the speedo fixings from the engine bay side. It’s more awkward.

10 You don’t need to be a qualified auto electrician to wire up the new loom and plug, but we’d advise having some basic knowledge before taking it on. CAI has made things straightforward by keeping the colour coding similar to the standard Mini loom.

The most obvious difference is from behind. Gone are the old fashioned bulb holders and the cable input. The voltage stabiliser is used for the integral fuel gauge and also if you have classic-style auxiliary gauges that require a 10 volt feed. It can be removed from the speedo and reinstalled separately if required.

5 With the speedo cable removed, it should be easy enough to remove the various electrical connectors and bulb holders from the rear of the speedo unit. As ever, disconnect the battery earth cable before starting any job involving the wiring.

Tech

3 OK so let’s start by disconnecting the speedo cable from the back of the speedo head. The car we’re working on already has a Smiths centre binnacle retro fitted. This should be easy to access from under the bonnet, although if you have a large plastic air filter housing, it will need to be removed first.

6 The earlier MkI-style oval binnacle comes in two parts, with a single-clock binnacle fixed to the bulkhead that’s covered with a plastic oval cowl on the front. Unscrew the four selftapping screws, then the metal base plate, to reveal the speedo.

9 8 There’s no need to remove the speedo binnacle itself from the bulkhead, as the old speedo slides out from the back. It’s tight on space around the carburettor(s).

11 We considered showing you the loom modifications in situ, but for the sake of clarity, the following steps were carried out on the bench with the wiring harness completely removed. The new loom comes supplied with open ends, so strip back each cable with a suitable tool.

The new speedo is a direct replacement, supplied with a metal mounting bracket so you can simply swap it over with the original. You need to swap over the two Spire clips from your existing speedo unit to the new metal bracket. Only the wiring varies.

12 Since spending a workshop day with the guys from 12 Volt Planet, we now always recommend using the non-insulated crimps and separate rubber boots. It’s easier to see when you’ve made a secure crimp and the finish is more professional-looking than the insulated types.

81


Tech

HOW TO

13 One bit of advice though – wear some gloves when handling brass terminals to hold off the green corrosion caused by sweaty fingers! A coating of electrical contact gel/grease such as Contralube 770 will also help matters.

15 14 Green is the ignition live supply to the speedo. The original speedo doesn’t require a 12-volt feed to operate, but the voltage stabiliser does, so you can connect up the two green wires.

16 Green/red is for the left indicators, while green/ white is right. But the wiring’s colour coded so you shouldn’t have any issues making the 17 correct connections. Once connected, ensure the metal contacts are fully covered by the Blue/white is for the main beam lamp and again shrink wrap or rubber boots. that’s helpfully colour coded.

19 The original loom has a 12-volt ignition live white cable and brown/yellow on either side of the ignition lamp, but as the speedo unit already has a single 12-volt live connection from the green cable, insulate this now redundant white cable with shrink wrap or remove it from the loom.

20 Green/black is a feed from the fuel tank sender in the boot. The gauge is calibrated to match the original-fitment Smiths fuel sender and should work with all standard units. If you have an alterative fuel sender/tank and it worked with the standard Smiths speedo, it should still work here.

The single indicator bulb holder is no longer required, so you can carefully cut it off. Note that both left and right indicator circuits connect to the same bulb on this particular loom. The new speedo loom has separate left and right connections.

18 Brown/yellow is the battery charge light, which earths out via the alternator/dynamo to illuminate only when the ignition is on but the charging system isn’t running or functioning as it should.

21 There’s only one connection for the LED backlighting, whereas the standard unit has two bulb holders. You may even have four red/ green cables in the loom, two for the speedo and two for the auxiliary gauge lighting. Where fitted, leave the latter loom as standard.

24 Not all cars have an oil pressure warning lamp as standard, but it’s certainly a good idea. Here Then either trace the other two red/green there are two white cables for a choice of two 23 cables back to the joiner/fuse holder under the amber lamps, left or right for left and rightdash and remove one, or join them both to the The original speedo has black earth cables hand drive Minis, should you have an oil same connection in the new loom as shown, to sprouting off from all directions, whereas the pressure switch installed. We’re going to be keep things tidy behind the dash. Connect to new unit requires just the one earth connection using a larger brighter lamp elsewhere, but it’s the red/white cable from the speedo loom. to function. good to have the option.

22

82


HOW TO

25 If you want both an oil pressure gauge and a low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash, it’s simply a case of installing a T-piece. The switch earths through the engine block when oil pressure drops below 7-10 lbs, on this early type at least.

27 Access is tricky, for both your hands and our camera. Be patient to avoid cross-threading it. Now to the speed sensor. Digital Speedos There’s no short cut or easy way to do this supplied us with two types, the first this nifty unfortunately. Our Keith recommends breaking gearbox adapter, which mounts directly to the the bottom ball joint taper and removing the speedo drive housing as with the original cable. pot joint from the gearbox as the best method.

26

28 Wiring for the speed sensor is thankfully quite straightforward, however. Red is a 12-volt ignition live source. Either connect this to a suitable spare terminal on the fuse box or alternatively use a piggyback spade terminal and use the same green cable as for the speedo. Black is earth, and white is a pulse signal, to connect up to the white/black cable in the speedo loom.

31 The module needs to be positioned ideally with a clear view of the sky and the label side up, so up on the top dash rail may be best. However, it should also work from under the bonnet, on the bulkhead perhaps. You really need to try it first before firmly fixing the module in place.

30 29 The loom for the speed sensor needs to be routed away from the driveshaft and exhaust manifold and securely clipped in place. These self-adhesive pads from computer and electrical shops always come in handy.

32 The GPS module comes with four cables, each with a ring terminal. Cut these off and wire up exactly the same as the gearbox adapter. Digital Speedos says that on this Smiths speedo conversion, the green cable is not required.

35 34 With a hole drilled to size, tighten up the switch. It should look right at home on the binnacle. We’ve mounted our switch out of sight but the cable is reasonably long so there’s plenty of options.

Tech

With everything plugged in and ready to go, reconnect the battery and the needle spins round the clock when powered up. GPS modules do not require any set-up, unlike the gearbox sensor, where the reading varies depending on wheel size, speedo drive gear type and the gearbox final drive ratio.

An alternative option is to use a GPS module to give an accurate speed reading. This is probably the simplest option because there’s no need to attach a sensor to the gearbox. If you regularly travel through long tunnels, over mountainous terrain or through heavily built-up areas, the signal may be hampered, but otherwise this is a road legal option that will pass an MoT.

33 Another difference with the electronic speedo is that it comes with a push button switch to reset the trip meter and also get the speed sensor calibrated. You could leave this tied up beneath the dash but why not install it discretely in the speedo binnacle.

36 There are two methods of set-up for the speed sensor – either by driving a known measured mile (or kilometre) or manually inputting a PPU (Pulses Per Unit) number. Thankfully there’s an in-depth guide on how to set up the PPU number supplied with the speedo. We’ll report back soon with a road test.

83


Tech Tech

ASK THE

HOW TO EXPERT

Ask the expert Your Mini questions answered by Keith Calver.

ASK THE EXPERT

Our experts can help. Just em minimag.ed@kelsey.co.ukail with ‘Ask The Experts’ as the subject.

LONG-STROKE ENGINE

I was shocked to read Keith’s recent reply to a reader in a previous issue regarding the build of a longstroke engine, where he said they are rough at idle. Why would this be? Also, the P21521 piston is lower by 0.0587-inch compared to the P21253 type. Could it be good for the stroked crank? Balazs There are some very pertinent laws of physics for why the longer-stroke cranks are rougher at idle than shorter-stroke cranks, but I am not going to get all technical here with a chapter or two on that. And I’d have to go and read up on it again as it is a very long time since I studied it in any depth. It is a feature of just about any engine that is originally designed to run with a specific set of components to specific dimensions, then somebody decides to go for a bigger capacity and whacks a longer-stroke crank in. This upsets the dynamics of the original design, and requires a significant change in a number of other components to minimise the problem. Stuff like a much larger damper pulley which is an issue in a Mini because of the engine mounting bracket position in relation to it. As for using those P21251 pistons, as long as you were not going to use a compression ratio more than 9.0:1 and not run it over around 5000rpm, they may just survive. They do not have a strong The top arms need removing to fit new rubber springs.

84

Long-stoke engines require a lot of additional components to achieve a smooth idle.

design, using a long slot behind the oil control rings, weakening the piston crown-to-wrist pin area quite dramatically.

WHICH MINI?

I’ve got around £3500 to spend on a decent 1275 Mini that hopefully doesn’t need too much work. Would you say this is a realistic price? I’m not bothered about trim or cosmetics too much as I can sort these, but I’d like to avoid spending out on mechanical work beyond servicing, and major body repairs. Have you got any pointers on what model to look out for? And is there anything I should pay particular attention to? I’m not after a buying guide,

SQUASHED RUBBERS

I’m looking to change my front suspension cones as they are almost completely flat! Do I have to take the top suspension arms off to get them out and to get the new ones in? It already has Hi-Los fitted so will I need a cone compressor tool? I know having the tool is useful but I’m working on a fairly tight budget and the

just some advice to help me find a good one. James Marsh Trying to answer your question without doing a buyers’ guide of some length is monumentally difficult, particularly with such a sketchy outline of what you are after. And description alone is not necessarily that helpful to somebody who does not know their way around Minis. The first hurdle is whether you want an original 1275 Mini – that’s a Mini that came from the factory with a 1275 engine in it. That limits your scope somewhat as you are mainly talking about cars built from 1990 onwards. The earliest cones are expensive enough. Matt Tweed

Yes, the top arms need to be removed to get the old rubber springs out and the new ones in. Particularly the latter. And yes, you will still need to use a compressor tool to disconnect the springs from the Hi-Lo platforms. That is unless whoever fitted the Hi-Los made

cars (pre-1992) were Coopers, so command a premium price by dint of their lineage. We are ignoring the earlier (as in 1960s) 1275 Minis as they were all Cooper S models, and will be out of your budget unless you get very lucky. Not long after there was the 1275 GT (1969-80), but then buying one of these will depend on your Clubman front end preference/ abhorrence, and finding one in the sort of condition you seem to be implying would be way over your budget. Having said that, you could get lucky and track down one of those illusive barn-finds. The non-Cooper 1275 cars manufactured between ‘92-’96 would probably be your best bet, although they are not as powerful

some extensive modifications to make them ‘short’ enough so they will disengage from the springs once completely screwed down all the way. Spring compressors are not that expensive, and an invaluable tool for a Mini owner. But you can rent them from good tool hire shops, or maybe you could borrow one from a local Mini club member.


ASK THE HOW TO EXPERT

SMALLER BRAKES

I’ve bought myself a 1990 Mini and plan to give it the full retro look. Part of the plan is to fit Cooper S brakes and 10-inch wheels, but I’m worried that having the smaller brakes will reduce the efficiency. Will there be a noticeable difference over the old larger system? And if not, is there any way to boost the efficiency to make them at least as good? Darryl as their Cooper counterparts. Nevertheless, a good Stage 1 kit will help matters, and there’s potential for further tuning in future. The ‘96-on twin-point injection cars tend to command a premium price, although you may find one in your price range. These later cars can really rust though, as Rover’s quality control left a lot to be desired for what was supposed to be a premium product. You could also consider a Mini that was powered by something else (850, 998 or 1098 small-bore units) that has had a 1275 engine transplant. Perhaps an unfinished project that got reasonably close to being completed, just deficient of an interior, general finish and probably paint. Ideally this would be one that has had all the bodywork sorted out properly but has not been given a new coat of paint, had all the suspension and brakes rebuilt and installed, and the 1275 engine fitted. Hopefully that will be an engine in fine fettle, as all too many aren’t. It may sound like I am doing my utmost to put you off buying a Rover Coopers command a premium price these days.

I don’t think you mean efficiency. I think you mean effectiveness. Efficiency is a term used to describe whether a particular set-up is working as well as it can. For instance, with the old original seven-inch diameter Cooper disc brakes, would be operating at 100 per cent efficiency when new. But the rubbish design for the application meant they were not at all effective. Consequently they wouldn’t stop the car well at all, especially after a number of

heavy applications. The Cooper S 7.5-inch diameter discs and callipers set-up was a massive step forward. They can develop sufficient braking force to lock the wheels up on most roadgoing applications. Whether you need to fit a servo very much depends on the amount of effort you either want to use, or can physically develop to slow and stop the car. Many go for the servo’d set-up as it requires far less effort on the part of the driver to effect a rapid stop. As

Tech Tech

Cooper S discs can be very effective.

I’m over six foot tall and 16 stone, I have sufficient leg power not to need one. I prefer no servo as it gives more feel for what the brakes are doing.

“Know what you are getting yourself into and you’ll avoid being surprised...” Mini, but that’s most definitely not the case. I want you to be superaware of what you need to consider before laying out your hard-earned, not tripping about all starry-eyed and grabbing the first Mini that comes along. More folk have thrown in the towel in disappointment and despondency over what they’ve bought than I could shake a stick at. Know what you are getting yourself into and you’ll avoid being surprised. Trust me, I know – I am one of the greatest lemon-buyers going! The best thing to do is get in touch with your local Mini club or clubs, and see if there is anybody with extensive Mini knowledge willing to help you out and go with you to look at possible cars.

TWIN TANKS

I have a 1999 Rover Mini Cooper that I use for shows and trips overseas whenever I can.

Can twin tanks be fitted to later MPi Mini?

I love the car, but the fuel capacity is a bit pathetic and I hate having to stop and fill it up all the time. Can I fit twin tanks to this model? It has an internal fuel pump inside the existing tank so I don’t know how it could be plumbed in. Jo Mason This is not something I have tried to do personally, nor seen such an installation. But the tank is not pressurised in any way, it just has the fuel pump inside it and the return pipes bleeding back in to it. As such I would say for a simple solution you could plumb it in as the original twin tank set-up, a link pipe joining the tanks together at their lowest point so they can cross-fill. I would probably use 5/16-inch fuel pipe to make sure there is better cross-fill flow, and a shut off valve in the link pipe that you can close when filling the tanks up. Filling them up with no valve is very laborious! You will probably have to have the link pipe spigot in the existing tank

brazed in, so somebody experienced with dealing with welding/bronze welding fuel tanks up is essential to avoid any impromptu explosions! You could make this all a whole lot more elaborate using an electric fuel pump to pump fuel from the extra tank in to the main tank, controlled by some form of fuel level detector. But I prefer simple installations – far less to go wrong.

POT JOINTS

I’ve got a 1984 Mini Sprite project, and am struggling with the CV joints being stuck in the gearbox. No amount of prising or levering will free them, and I’ve even managed to bend the proper CV removal tool. Why has this happened, and how on earth do I get them out? Rob Garfield The pot joint outer casings are held on to the diff output shafts by a round wire type circlip positioned a short way in from

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Tech

ASK THE EXPERT

WOBBLY COLUMN

My Mini seems to have lots of play in the steering column. The bolts are tight at the top and bottom, but it still seems to move. Can you tell me what the problem might be, and how I can fix it? It’s a 1994 Mini Mayfair. Phil Wright It depends on what and where you are describing this ‘play’ is. I suspect you are describing movement present in the steering wheel caused by the inner column the wheel is attached to being ‘baggy’ in the outer column/tube. This is caused by wear in the column the outer end of the output shaft in a groove. Generally these circlips do not cause much trouble, unless they are damaged in some way when somebody was not paying attention when refitting the pot joints. Being a round wire circlip, they have a quite wide open section to allow fitment to the shaft and into its respective groove. They are not sprung like a loop-ended circlip, so some care is essential when fitting new ones not to overstretch them. It is also essential to make sure the circlip ends are not sticking out of their groove when refitting the pot joint as the joint can catch the end of the clip and bend it over and out into the splines on the shaft. The result is as you are experiencing – a jammed on pot joint. It could also be that it is just seized in place due to corrosion. It is not clear if you have already removed the engine from the car. It is not essential for the pot joint outer casing to be removed from the gearbox to get the engine out.

bushes. The top and bottom of the inner column is located in the outer by a pair of plastic bushes, that wear over time. The relevant part numbers for your era of Mini are GSV1095 for the top one, and NAM8563 for the bottom one. For a full description on how to change them, consult the workshop manual you should have to hand when doing anything on your car for reference. The basics are as follows. Remove the steering wheel from the inner column, make sure the ignition keys are in the ignition lock to prevent the column lock from engaging, undo the column support

Column bushes are prone to wear.

grease and tap it into place, chamfered end first. Make sure the shouldered slot in the bush engages in the detent in the tube. Reassemble in reverse, ensuring all fasteners are tightened as required.

“You will just have to do whatever it takes with whatever tools you have on hand... ” You can just cut the boot clips, and with some careful juggling and jiggling you can pull the inner bearing race attached to the inner end of the drive shaft out of the pot joint outer as you raise the engine. Deal with the left side (shortest shaft) first, then sort the other one. With the engine and gearbox unit on the ground, you will just have to do whatever it takes with whatever tools you have on hand to get the pot joint outer off. If it gets down to it, it is entirely feasible to remove the whole diff unit from the gearbox by removing the diff side plate-to-diff fasteners, then the diff housingto-gearbox fasteners.

BEARING CHOICE

I’m told that both of the wheel bearings on the front of my 1996 Mini Equinox Stuck pot joints can be a tough task to remove.

86

bracket bolt and then slide the outer column upwards several inches. If the lower bush you have fitted and new one to refit is a split-type bush, you can simply slide the old bush out, remove from it the lower column and fit the new one. If it is one-piece, you will have to remove the tube from the inner column completely. At this point it is best to remove the inner column from the car as well by undoing and removing the pinch bolt at the base of it. The new one-piece bush can then be fitted in to the lower tube end. The inner bush may be tight so will need prying out. Lube the bush with graphite

need replacing, and I Known-brand bearings are worth the extra cost. see there are genuine and non-genuine types available. The non-genuine ones are about £15, but the genuine Timken ones are about five times as much! Is it worth it? I do around 4000 miles in the car and generally it doesn’t go far in terms of distance, but the wife and I plan do have their products to take it to the south of France manufactured in these far-flung later this year. Is it worth shelling places, but the big difference is out the extra for the more they have their own head expensive bearings? technicians and quality control Ash Williams folks on-site. Since the demise of Rover and cessation of Mini Wheel bearings have production nearly 16 years ago definitely suffered as a now, products that were made to result of the shift by the very best quality in their manufacturers and vendors to get hundreds of thousands are now things made on foreign shores for only made in their thousands, ludicrously cheap prices. The hundreds in some cases. This has main issue with all this out caused a dramatic increase in sourcing is that, though these prices, kept to sane levels by the countries have all the latest and aforementioned manufacturers. greatest machinery, they do not As such, I would strongly advise have the many years of sticking with the known brand, manufacturing experience we particularly as a chunk of your have. They also do not seem to annual mileage will be covered on understand the need for top grade foreign shores. Some vendors will materials in essential hardware. tell you they have sold thousands Everything is done to the cheapest of a cheaper option and had no price feasible. Some major issues reported. From the number manufacturing companies, like of questions I field on the subject, Timken, RHP Bearings and so on, I’d beg to differ.


01580 763975

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Tech

PRODUCTS

Products The latest Mini products

MINI MODEL £9.99 If HM Queen Elizabeth II’s recent 90th birthday has got you feeling all patriotic, Corgi (the model company, not one of the royal dogs) has recently launched a commemorative model to celebrate the occasion. The 1:36-scale die cast features replica 10-inch Minilite alloys, a purple and gold colour scheme and a private reg plate. It’s a must-have for the Mini model collectors and carries part number CC82107. � 01843 233525 � www.corgi.co.uk

DREMEL KIT £139.99 The latest Dremel rotary multi-tool comes with a neat new wallmounting bracket, so you can hang it up and out of the way when not in use. These are seriously handy little tools to keep in the garage, whether you need to make delicate cuts, grind back metal edges or polish up your dashpots. This mains-powered kit includes 75 accessories and a variable speed control. � 0344 736 0109 � www.dremel.co.uk

DIGITAL SPEEDO £349.95 Fans of the original centre-clock speedo will be pleased to see that Smiths has completely redesigned the unit as a digital version. Drive input no longer comes from an awkward cable to the gearbox, but either a digital pick-up or GPS unit. The speedo comes as a sealed unit with LED lighting and a billet aluminium rear casing, with magnolia or black colour options and either 90mph or 130mph maximum speeds. It’s a direct replacement for the original, although minor rewiring of the speedo loom will be necessary. � 01564 775522 � www.digital-speedos.co.uk

WALL ART £35 Bristol-based artist and illustrator Michael Green has created a limited edition print in a blueprint style, featuring Mini models from the first 10 years of production. The A3 prints are signed by the artists and numbered, and should look fantastic framed on your wall. � www.michaelgreenillustration.com

PISTON TOOLS £35 each These tools From MED Engineering aim to completely eliminate piston ring breakage associated with the original piston ring compressing tools. Simple and easy to use, the piston is first placed into the tapered side of the tool, then pushed into the bore. They’re available in a range of four different diameters to suit 1275cc engines and the most common overbore sizes. � 01455 618464 � www.med-engineering.co.uk

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PRODUCTS

Tech

LOCK TAB WASHER £5.32 This ST Works-type lock tab washer from Mini Spares is said to be the best way to securely fasten the two-piece crank pulley damper in place, as found on early Cooper S engines. The damper itself is also still available to buy new. The part number for the washer is C-AHT146. � 01707 607700 � www.minispares.com

D4 SPLIT-RIM From £744 set Specialist Components has developed a full range of new 10-inch alloy split-rim wheels for the Mini, and they’re all things of beauty. The D4 features directional brake cooling vents in a style that’s reminiscent of the original Mini Special alloys. These are available in a six-inch width with an ET-2 offset for Group 2 arch extensions or similar, or seven-inch width with a deep ET-14 offset for racing tyres and arches. There’s a wide range of anodised and polished finishes to choose from too. � 01953 859785 � www.specialist-components.co.uk

COMPETITION DRIVESHAFTS £255 pair MED’s new competition-proven driveshafts are intended for Hardy Spicer couplings and are machined from M300 steel, the grade used in high-end motorsport transmissions. There are EN24T steel driveshafts on the market, but these should be the strongest and most durable option, especially for those with lots of power and grip. � 01455 618464 � www.med-engineering.co.uk

MINIVATION T-SHIRT £15 Here’s a stylish new T-shirt to capture the summer vibe according to Minivation, although it’s strangely devoid of umbrellas! Still, we like the positivity and palm trees beside the cool modified Minis on the front. These are available in six sizes from small to XXXL, all in high quality white or black cotton. � 07515 945120 � www.minivation.co.uk

MOMO STEERING WHEEL £335.99 Momo’s latest 350mm steering wheel is similar to its original ‘Dark Fighter’ design, except this one is coated in finest mahogany for a more classic style. The hard wood and Italian air leather don’t come cheap, but we’re sure this would right at home in a luxurious show Mini’s interior. � 01268 764411 � www.b-gdirect.com

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Tech

CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Engine rebuild costs will depend on the state of what you have to start with.

ENGINE BLOCK REBUILD COSTS Our guru Keith discusses the parts needed to rebuild your Mini’s engine block, and what it is likely to cost.

A

side from a zillion technical questions, the most popular start to any conversation about power units tends to concern the cost. That could be a cylinder head, engine, gearbox or the whole unit, reconditioned to standard spec, full race or something in between. It’s also a question that is difficult to answer accurately as the amount of work needed depends on the state of the parts supplied.

heads – a set recipe for machining, parts and labour that they duplicate. But there is nothing to cater for the enthusiast who is considering having a go themselves, so just wants to know the essentials that will likely need replacing and an idea of total component and engineering costs. In response I thought I’d oblige and do a breakdown of a very basic engine and gearbox rebuild, covering the engine this

“Realistically, you won’t know what needs doing/replacing until you have stripped the unit down and inspected everything...” As such I don’t have a build price list for anything other than modified cylinder heads – that’s easy because they are all done to a specific recipe using the same processes and parts each time. Looking through the ads in the mag, there are companies that offer engine and gearbox builds at set prices, so I guess they must use the same principle as I do for the

90

month, cylinder head next month and gearbox after that. This should help achieve two goals; one is a list of the basic parts and engineering tasks that are likely to be needed with an idea on cost, the second is a list to work to in order to price up to anywhere you want to. Though there are cheaper components out there, I have steered clear of them and stuck to good

KEITH CALVER

Keith has been Mini Magazine’s tech expert since we launched in 1996. Keith’s Mini CV speaks for itself: he joined the motorsport scene as a Miglia competitor in 1978, before a five–year stint at the Mini Spares Centre (London) in the early ’80s. Now independent, Keith builds race engines for numerous disciplines. His 1275 GT race car and sharing his vast amount of Mini knowledge are also main focuses.

quality recognised brands. Realistically, you won’t know what needs doing/replacing until you have stripped the unit down and thoroughly inspected everything. Anything you are not sure on, either ask your local engineering shop to take a look (though it has to be remembered that it is likely to want to sell you as much as


CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Tech

it can) or consult somebody from your local Mini club. I have simply started with the most basic of lists from the majority of units that have been through my hands. For instance, some low-mileage, well-serviced and cared-for engines may have piston to bore clearances within the necessary tolerance, so need no more than a hone and re-ring. The crankshaft bearings may even be in good enough condition to be used again following careful inspection.

BLOCK

After any machining work carried out on the block, it is absolutely essential the engine is cleaned inside and out prior to reassembly. To do this you will need to remove the oil gallery plugs and coolant jacket core plugs. This is pretty straightforward with the later ‘cap’ type plugs, but a little more difficult on the earlier solid brass plugs in the oil gallery ends. If in doubt, get an engineering company to remove them for you. Most automotive engineering shops have a parts washer that they run all engine components through after machining. The best way to ensure the oil galleries are clean and clear of debris is to use special radial type brushes, available from the likes of Frost Restoration (www.frost.co.uk) along with contact or brake cleaner and compressed air. Cam bearings regularly crop up in conversations on engine rebuilds – should you change them or not? As they are nigh-on impossible to change correctly without special tools, if they are only very slightly scored I would leave well alone.

BORES AND PISTONS

Before getting the block re-bored, make sure you can get pistons to fit. It may sound obvious but I have heard several stories of folks getting a block bored then finding they can’t get the pistons. You need to make

Removal of oil and coolant plugs facilitates essential post-machining cleaning.

sure the new pistons are the same compression height as the ones you are replacing to avoid issues on reassembly with the pistons sticking out the top of the block. The easiest way to check is to push the wrist pin from the new piston into the pin bore of the old one and compare the crown heights. Compression ratio also needs to be considered. Pistons with bigger dishes in them than the ones being replaced will lower the compression ratio, so dull the engine’s performance. Pin-to-crown height and dish capacity details are generally available in catalogues at engine reconditioners/engineers or from Mini/ASeries specialists.

CRANKSHAFT

Take the crankshaft along to whoever you choose to carry out the machine work on

your rebuild and get them to check it over. Journals need checking for size, roundness and taper. If there are any scores or signs or wear in the journal surfaces, get it reground. I have my cranks reground regardless as the process also takes out any slight bending that may have occurred in use from when it was new. It also allows for consistent sizing of the journals and stroke correction.

CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS

If the crank turns out to be in perfect condition, not requiring a grind, I would strongly recommend fitting new bearings anyway, even if those that came out looked fine – there is bound to be some wear there after thousands of miles of use. Before deciding to go with the existing bearings, I would strongly recommend using Plasti-

Light scoring on cam bearings like those on left will be OK to go again. If they are deep, as on the right, replace them.

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Tech

CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Piston height can be an issue when buying new.

will need to check the crank end float when re-building the engine.

Plasti-gauging is a must if looking to reuse existing bearings.

CON ROD BOLTS

The small-bore rod bolts seem to be pretty reliable even when reused a couple of times, so no need to replace them. The large bore rod bolts, however, have a bit of a chequered history. I know there are hundreds of folk that have probably reused them without any issues. I have seen way too many fail, even on standard rebuilt engines. Consequently I would strongly advise fitting new rod bolts and nuts for peace of mind.

CAMSHAFT

“You could take the opportunity to replace it with a sportier cam to give the engine a little more power...” gauge to check the journal-to-bearing clearances. If the crank needs a regrind, you will need over-size bearings anyway. You need two sets of bearings – one for the main journals that run in the block, and one set for the big end journals where the rods fit to the crank. Material-wise, as standard they are steel-backed aluminium (bi-metal) type bearings. These bearings are very wear resistant, so have a very hard facing on them. The issue here is that if any small particles make it past the filter, they tend to gouge the crank journal rather than or as well as the bearing facing. I always use competition spec lead/indium (tri-metal) bearings in everything I build as they have a softer facing that will absorb small particles without damaging the crank.

CENTRE MAIN THRUST WASHERS

The copper-coloured faces of the thrust washers allow the crank to rotate easily while you have the clutch engaged. They must be fitted with the copper-coloured

92

face towards the crankshaft thrust faces, away from their block seats. Many have got this incorrect and ended up trashing the crank, thrust washers, and on occasions the block as well. They are put under load every time the clutch pedal is depressed, so need to be in good condition. If there are any signs of scoring or uneven wear, replace them. Go for standard size initially; you

If the cam shows signs of wear, such as pitting near the peak of the lobes or misshapen flanks either side of the peaks, then it will need replacing. You could take the opportunity to replace it with a sportier cam to give the engine a little more power. You will also need at the very least some good quality anti-scuffing paste or proper cam assembly lube – essential to protect the cam lobes and followers during the break-in period of a newly-assembled engine.

CAM FOLLOWERS

The cam followers should have smooth, shiny faces where they run against the cam lobe. The sides will also have a band around them, top and bottom, shined up due to the There are options when buying new bearings. The cheaper bi-metal bearings on the left and in the centre are more silver in appearance. The competition trimetal bearings on the right are a dull, matt grey colour, and significantly more costly.


CALVER’S CLASSROOM

Any sign of surface damage to cam lobes or follower faces? Replace them. They are probably the highest stressed components in the engine.

follower rocking, rotating and rising and falling. The faces may show rings radiating out from the centre of the follower. These are normal, known as ‘sombrero-ing’, caused by the follower rotating. If the faces are pitted in any way or look like they are flaking/breaking up, they will need replacing. This applies even if the camshaft looks to be in mint condition.

CAM DRIVE COMPONENTS

The vast majority of standard engines you are likely to come across these days will be equipped with a shoe-type timing chain

Tech

Though an oil pump will work OK with some apparent damage to rotor lobes and annulus, it’s best to replace it in a new build.

tensioner and single row (Simplex) timing chain, instigated in the late 1970s. Earlier engines just used a single row chain, some with ‘tensioner rings’ that were simply nitrile rubber rings placed either side of the cam gear teeth that the chain would cushion against. As a bare minimum replace the chain and tensioner pad. The factory-fitted sintered steel gears are actually pretty tough and do not wear much at all, so rarely need replacing. Even so a whole chain and gears kit is not that expensive. Many take the opportunity to fit a dual row (Duplex) chain cam drive kit in

PARTS PRICE LIST SMALL BORE

LARGE BORE

OIL GALLERY PLUGS

2.90

5.80

COOLANT JACKET PLUG

3.00

3.75

(CAM BEARINGS)

(10.50)

(11.58)

PISTON SET

188.50

149.96

CON ROD BOLT (AND NUT) SET

(48.80)

42.32

(CAM ON NEW BLANK)

(160.00)

(160.00)

(RE-PROFILED CAM)

(110.00)

(110.00)

(CAM FOLLOWER SET)

(16.00)

the belief that the chain is substantially stronger and therefore longer lasting before chain stretch becomes an issue. However, there are some very cheap and cheerful kits on the market using extremely cheap chains that stretch badly within several hundred miles of use. For the vast majority of standard and even modified road engines, the Simplex set-up with tensioner is more than adequate. That’s providing a decent quality chain is used.

OIL PUMP

The oil pump sees the oil it is feeding to the rest of the engine before it passes through the oil filter. It therefore also gets to see any detritus hanging about in the oil, and consequently is prone to damage. It is surprising how much damage the oil pump can sustain and still provide an adequate stream of oil to the engine. I would strongly advise you fit a new oil pump unless it is unquestionably in excellent health with no marks in the rotor and annulus faces.

ENGINEERING PRICE LIST BORE/HONE BLOCK

88.00

(16.00)

FACE BLOCK

45.00 70.00

CRANK MAIN BEARINGS: RETICULAR TIN

20.22

20.22

CRANKSHAFT REGRIND

(CRANK MAIN BEARINGS: COMPETITION)

(37.50)

(28.50)

(FIT NEW CAM BEARINGS)

(25.00)

CRANK BIG END BEARINGS: RETICULAR TIN

18.50

18.50

TOTAL COST

£203.00

(CRANK BIG END BEARINGS: COMPETITION)

(33.00)

(31.50)

(CENTRE MAIN THRUST WASHERS)

(7.83)

(7.13)

SUNDRIES

OIL PUMP

13.19

13.19

ENGINE CLEANING BRUSH SET

10.00

IWIS STANDARD SIMPLEX CHAIN

16.20

16.20

BRAKE CLEANER – 4 LITRES

18.00

(IWIS BIG-PIN SIMPLEX CHAIN)

(29.25)

(29.25)

ENGINE ASSEMBLY LUBE

7.52

TENSIONER PAD

5.44

5.44

CAM ASSEMBLY LUBE

4.13

(SIMPLEX CHAIN/GEAR KIT)

(19.01)

(19.01)

ENGINE OIL – 5 LITRES

21.50

(DUPLEX CHAIN/GEAR KIT)

(23.00)

(23.00)

TOTAL COST

£61.15

(DUPLEX CHAIN, IWIS TOP GRADE)

(29.25)

(29.25)

ENGINE GASKET SET

10.89

9.21

PRIMARY GEAR OIL SEAL

3.50

3.50

TOTAL COST

£282.34

£288.09

NOTES: All prices are plus VAT at 20 per cent. All components and/or prices in brackets are options.

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Our Minis Poor old Newbie has been sat there for a LONG time...

Keith Calver Minimag Tech Expert MINI LIFE Started out as 'a hand with the spanners' to my cousin Peter who'd just started racing in Mini Miglias. Spent fortunes at Mini Spares Centre building a couple of Miglias before joining the company for 5 years. During my 'Mini Life' I've had everything on the road from bog standard 850s to Monstrous 1600s and every conceivable variation you can imagine in between. MINI SPEC Clubman shell undergoing a serious diet. Initial engine will be 1380, trying out one of Swiftune's DC5 crank, rods and pistons kit in a block prepped and raced by Swiftune at Goodwood in the DART that Nick drove to an excellent win. Cam will be a Graham Russell 308 full race cam using bigger diameter cam followers. New spec cylinder head done, 1.5 ratio MED roller tip rockers with 'W' shaped posts for extra valve train rigidity, MSC competition push rods. Starting season on a Weber 45DCOE on MSC fiveinch inlet manifold. MSC Clubman straight-cut or MBE Race Engineering dog box, MSC EVO drop gears and LSD, AVO dampers, 8.4-inch slotted discs, MSC fourpot aluminium callipers, Mintex F4R pads, 6 x12inch MB split rims, Yokohama A048R tyres. MINI SPEC

1275 GT Racer 1990 Mini City 1985 Ol' Red 1973 Clubman 1989 Mini City E

To do list

Time for action

With some workspace cleared, Keith can start on his 'bargain' buy.

T

ime to work on the Minis in my collection has been in preciously short supply in recent months. An overflowing order book at Calver ST, a new website under construction and issues with the day-to-day cars has kept me more than slightly entertained. Karin's Clio has required a chunk of work to get it through the MoT test this time around, amounting to half the price we paid for the car originally. One revelation did occur though; fitting a new engine mounting has stopped the 'hunting' feeling of the engine at idle! The downside was more hints from Karin about having a Mini as her daily driver. This means tackling the last lemon I bought – the £1000 'just needs an MoT test' purchase. Rewinding back to when I first unloaded it from the trailer, a misfire led me to look under the bonnet. That's when I saw the cooling fan was on backwards, and further investigation

revealed no thermostat in the head. Typically folks remove thermostats to stop overheating, but this is not a good plan. It'll be overheating for a reason, so the cause needs sourcing and sorting. That was concerning, because the usual outcome once all else is checked or changed is a cracked cylinder head. While moving this Mini about, I also noticed a long brake pedal, typical of rear brakes needing adjustment. So I whipped the wheels off to find the adjusters absolutely seized solid both sides. That means I'm now into a complete strip down of both rear hubs. So much for 'just needs an MoT test'. Getting stuff done on cars has proved a problem due to a severe shortage of space, what with the garage at home filled with the GT racer, Clubby Estate, and Ol' Red, and the workshop full of motorbikes and a massive collection of car models and toys – the latter to accompany an engine and 'box build for

I still can't decide what do about Newbie's dodgy cooling system.

Chiselled CV nut on the Clubby Estate is just the tip of the iceberg.

1. Make a decision on what to do with the lemon's cooling issue. ke 2. Sort the rear bra adjustment issue. 3. Big effort to get Clubby Estate's head done.

Ol' Red's hubs and brakes are rusty, but the CVs and bearings are good.

94

a customer in Indonesia. These have all now gone and I've sold one of the bikes, so after a bit of a rearrange, I now have space to get the lemon inside. The Clubby Estate is waiting patiently for me to sort its new power plant out and rebuild the hubs. I've started by stripping the hub and driveshaft assemblies from Ol' Red, as I think I am going to need to use at least the inner CV (pot) joints, and probably the outer CV joints, so I may as well use the whole assemblies to save messing about. If need be I can use the hub assemblies off Ol' Red as I know they were fine. The quickest solution is just to swap the entire hub and driveshaft assemblies over, but I want to know what the hub build condition on the Estate is. Having done that, if feasible a rebuild will make them good as new. Then all I need to do is complete the engine build (still haven't done the head!), dyno it and install it.


Our Minis This compact K&N breather filter looked ideal for the oil catch tank installation...

Stephen Colbran Features writer MINI LIFE My Mini life began aged 13 with a SEGTO Junior race Mini, followed by the usual path of learning to drive in a Mini, joining a local club and getting involved in the shows. 15 years later, I've driven, photographed and written about some of the best cars on the scene. I've now got two project cars – a stripped-out trackday warrior and a supercharged MINI Cooper S daily drive. Both have their merits, but only one works... MINI SPEC My classic Mini

project car has evolved over 10 years from scabby daily drive to weekend ICE machine before its latest reincarnation as a strippedout performance Mini. There's an AC Dodd 100bhp 1330cc engine with a straight-cut box and plenty more besides. The theme is modern motorsport but without ruining the 1960s Mini appeal.

MINIS OWNED Austin Mini 1330 R53 MINI Cooper S

...however, unless mounted sideways, it fouled the bonnet.

Breathing easy

An impending deadline gets the project back up to speed again.

W

ithout any specific deadlines to meet on the grey Mini and a selection of halffinished awkward jobs staring back at me, I’d run out of enthusiasm. At which point both my housemates handed in their notices, I was faced with being turfed-out with an incomplete car in the garage and boom, that’s a deadline if ever I needed one! So it’s been all hands to the deck once again. The jobs have been quite bitty, starting off by connecting up the fuel line from the modified Filter King pressure regulator to the new carbs. The neatest way I could see to do that was to buy a 12G292 fuel pipe from Mini Spares, an original fitment part to ‘60s Coopers, which splits the fuel line to feed both float chambers. Torques UK came to the rescue again with a length of stainless braided 6mm rubber hose, as I’d tried Teflon-lined hose and found it doesn’t clamp down sufficiently with hose clips. That was topped-off with a

set of aluminium hose finishers and the fuel system ticked-off the list. Next up was to finish the engine bay wiring, so the horn is now hidden discreetly below the catch tank on the inner wing, keeping it minimalist to match the ‘tucked’ loom. Then came a new charge lead from the MED starter to the lightweight race alternator, as the first attempt was about 2mm too short, frustratingly. It’s all looking pretty tidy now, with barely any wiring visible, and anything that can’t practically be hidden has been shrink-wrapped in black. I think you need to strike a balance between making an engine bay look neat and keeping it feasible to work on by the roadside, which is inevitable part of Mini ownership, surely. It was also about time to finish off the oil catch tank install, which had been

abandoned so long ago I’d forgotten the problems! Having fixed the tank in place, I’d since done a fair amount of reading up on breather systems and realised it could really do with a breather on top to work effectively. So instead of two inputs on top, one should be an output of sorts. OK, no problem, until I went to fit a small K&N filter on top and found the bonnet wouldn’t shut. Chinese eBay was the last resort, but led me to a flush-mounted brass gauze filter intended for industrial compressors. For £1.50 posted it fits the bill perfectly, not to mention the weird 3/8 BSP thread. Time will tell if it works. Now I’ve just got to finish the breather system with a modified rocker cover, finish off the ECU wiring, a few interior bits and get it running again. Best get on with it then…

To do list

1. Modify rocker cover. 2. Refit windscreen t 3. Re-adjust exhaus fitment. 4. Abandon ship!

A flush-mounted brass filter seems to do the job much better.

The K&N would sill come in handy for the timing case vent, however...

...and a small offcut of carbonfibre holds it securely in place.

95


Our Minis The stripdown of the Japanese Mayfair begins at Ryan's place.

Jeff Ruggles Editor MINI LIFE I’ll run out of fingers and toes if I try and count all the Minis I’ve had. I love to spend all my spare time working on them, although progress can be tricky as my lock-up is 200 miles away from where I live! MINI SPEC I currently

own seven Minis in various states of repair. Currently only a couple are road legal, although I'm working hard to change all that!

MINIS OWNED 1995 Sidewalk

1994 Mini Sprite

Compulsive shopper With the red Mayfair nearly done, Jeff inexplicably buys another Mini...

1970 1275 GT

1971 Mini 850 1972 Mini 1275 GT 1972 Innocenti Mini 1001 1991 Mini Mayfair 1994 Mini Mayfair

W

ith the hotter months fast approaching, my thoughts have turned to potential summer Mini adventures. Regular readers will know I'm partial to the odd roadtrip into the far reaches of Eastern Europe, and I'm hoping this year will be no exception. Now I could take the Sprite as I've done in previous years, but having owned it for 10 years now it's like a member of the family, and I'm always nervous that something might happen to it. That's why I've been building the red Mayfair up – something that's still

tidy, but I'm a little less attached too. A good three or four days work should easily see it finished, too. So that's why the following makes no sense whatsoever. I'd been searching online to find a Mini for my friend James, who has a hankering to get back into the game after a decade away. The requirements were a reasonably cheap 1275 car that didn't need much bodywork, which is a lot more difficult than it sounds. I found a suitable candidate on the Isle of Wight, and as James didn't really fancy it, I popped

To do list

1. Get the new car's bodywork done 2. Fix the exhaust and

suspension issues. 3. Head to the rolling

road for a tune-up.

The new purchase parked up on the Isle of Wight ferry.

96

over for a look myself. An hour later, I was driving it on to the ferry home... To make this decision sound even less rational, it was nowhere near as good as I'd hoped. The seats had collapsed, the rear hinge panel was knackered, the doors rusty and the throttle pedal cable so loose it would barely do 30mph. It wasn't even that cheap, but my judgement was clouded by the fact it was a Japanese import, and I've always wanted one. The air con has long gone from this one, but it is a manual and does have some funky JDM parts. The seller claimed it was a Mayfair and it probably is, but it could also be a Classic 35 LE – the posher one made for export. It's the right colour, it was registered in the right month and it has the right trim, but there's no real way to tell. The British Motor Museum doesn't keep any records for Rover Minis, and my contacts in Japan can't help me either. Answers on a postcard... With no need for another Mini and no space to store it either, I've decided the best solution is to keep this one nomadic and use it for my Euro jaunts. The initial plan was to take it to IMM in Belgium, but there was no chance of getting the car done in time. Ryan Cowley at Restore My Mini in Hurley


Our Minis Within two hours, it looked like this!

Saggy and marked leather seats will need attention.

I've gone for a Heritage full hinge panel,the same as this one fitted to the Sprite a few years ago.

Boot floor repair section is from Magnum Panels.

"I've decided the best solution is to keep this one nomadic and use it for my Euro jaunts..." kindly offered to repair the door and rear hinge panel, but this quickly escalated into a new rear valance and the rear section of the boot floor, too. I could've bought the non-geniune hinge panel repair sections you can get, but these are only available as three separate sections. To make a neater job of it and avoid faffing about, I opted for a fullwidth panel from British Motor Heritage. This is not a cheap panel by any means, but it's by far the best option in my opinion. The rear valance and door skins were also sourced from Heritage, but I couldn't justify getting a whole boot floor panel and cutting it up for the bit required, so Magnum Panels came to the rescue with that one. The rest of the car appears to be remarkably sound given that the car has lived by the sea in England for nine years. Nevertheless it will need a fair bit

of paint – probably a full respray in time. There's also a few mechanical issues. The throttle cable was easily sorted, but it was running far too rich so it really needs a proper set-up. The rubber springs are also the flattest ones I've ever seen, and the exhaust hangs about a foot below the car. There's also play in the front hubs, and the brakes are useless. Clearly I've done well with this one. Still, once all this work is done, I should be left with a nice Mini. In the meantime though, it'll be up to the Sprite to cover the miles. I've done about 1000 miles with the five-port injection set-up so far, and all is well. I've also swapped the front seats for some cool Japanese Mini Delta seats I bought from my pal Paul Raynes, although they still need some fettling to fit properly. They're also quite narrow, so I'm sticking to salads for a while...

Mini Delta seats are cool, but narrow...

97


Our Minis Neil Slark puts Ryan's racer through its paces on the rolling road. Ryan Cowley Contributor restoremymini.co.uk MINI LIFE I bought my

first Mini aged 14 and have owned plenty since! I've done the club and show thing, and now I'm currently competing in the Mighty Minis championship as well as working on and restoring Minis for a living.

MINI SPEC 1990s Mini Cooper SPi built to Mighty Minis regulations, usual safety requirement such as cage, fire extinguisher etc. Minimal mechanical modifications permitted. MINIS OWNED 1994 Mini Cooper 1982 Mini Pick-up

Ready to roll

Ryan's Mighty Mini is ready to join the competitive ranks once again.

I

've not had chance to do much on my Mighty Mini racer since my last update and its appearance at the Autosport Show in January. It's been dumped at the back of my unit as a nonrunner for months, with no flywheel after an appointment at Slark Race Engineering to get the timing sorted out had to be cancelled. I had to miss the first round of the new season at Brands Hatch due to family commitments, but I had booked in to race at Cadwell Park in May, so I set aside a few days to get the last few bits sorted out in time. First up was the engine. Despite being a fully rebuilt unit, I and others had noticed it was burning

To do list

1. Finish my race van. 2. Try not to crash on my first race back.

98

With some careful timing and fuelling adjustments made, performance was much improved.

some oil on the overrun when I did the Mini Sport Action Day at Castle Combe. After a quick call was made to James, the engine builder, we hatched a plan to remove the cylinder head. We initially thought the problem was simply down to poor valve stem seals, but James took it away with him anyway to double check everything, and it was lucky he did, as he found a few of the valve guides were also worn. A new set of guides, oil seals and a set of recut valve seats later, all should be well. Next up was that visit to Neil Slark at SRE in Amesbury. When he set my engine up for the Action Day last year, he suggested that there may be more

power and torque to come from advancing the ignition timing. Unfortunately on an SPi this is ECU controlled, and moving the distributor makes no difference. The flywheel has to come off to enable the sensor ring to be modified and make it adjustable. With this done I refitted the flywheel and Neil ran the car up on the rollers to get a baseline figure, before removing the starter motor and moving the sensor ring to advance the timing. With some trial and error we managed to arrive at the optimum setting, and Neil then ran the car up for the final power run. The result of all this work, along with some minor fuelling adjustments, was power and torque figures comparable to the front runners. I'm chuffed to bits – let's just hope my driving is up to it too! With the car back at my base I then turned my attention to sorting some minor problems. The car had been getting too hot when stationary at the Action Day, which I put down to the radiator I had fitted in a rush when I found my original item had sprung a leak. The replacement I had fitted was a two-core item of unknown heritage that I'd found in my spares stash. A closer inspection revealed it wasn't in its first flush of youth and was full of all sorts of


Our Minis The flywheel sensor ring had to be modified.

Power is now up to 66bhp - comparable to front-runners.

“A closer inspection revealed it wasn't in its first flush of youth...� detritus, so I invested in a Fletcher aluminium version from Huddersfield Spares. This has been slotted into place along with a hastily reconditioned surround, and the engine bay looks much better for it. I was worried about how well it was going to fit as I've seen cars with aluminium rads fitted that have needed notches taking out of the inner wing gutter section, but it actually slotted in easier than a standard one! A few other minor jobs were taken care of, and after an oil change with some fresh

It fits! The Mini in the new race van.

Millers CTV 20W50 oil, we were good to go mechanically. All that was left to do was a quick suspension set-up. I roped in fellow Tamworth-based racer Darren Nightingale to give me a hand and let me use his alignment equipment, and with that sorted, I was all set for my first race since 2014. Work has also begun on my Ford Transit race van/transporter, and although its not finished yet, I'm pleased to report that the Mini fits inside a treat!

Millers CTV oil and the new Fletcher radiator.

The new rad actually fits better than the old two-core item.

Plenty of room for tools and spares, too.

99


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Minimap - find your regional Mini specialist using our UK guide

1

MINIMEND Preston

• Classic Mini Restoration • Time served mechanic & panel beater • Custom builds

Tel: 01772 611005

Web: www.minimend.com

2 SUSSEX ROAD & RACE Littlehampton, Sussex

3 Thomas Classic & Modern

4

McDONALD MINIS Edinburgh, Scotland

Cwmbran South Wales

5

G.V.M Wellington, Somerset

• General Servicing • Performance Upgrades • Suspension Modification • Engine & Gearbox Rebuilds • Full Rebuilds & Restorations

• Restoration • Repairs • Servicing Cars bought and sold

• Servicing & Repairs • Welding & Bodywork • Gearbox & Engine Specialists

• Servicing & Repair • MOT work, Welding, Brakes etc

www.sussexroadandrace.co.uk

www.thomasclassicandmodern.com

www.mcdonald-minis.co.uk

01823 665959

6

7

01903 715341

PAUL HIGGS CARS Hampshire

• Classic Mini Sales • Minis at Affordable Prices • Full classic Mini garage services

07752 414395 01425 839617

www.paulhiggscars.com

10

0131 665 9889

01633 876938

8

CHRIS POOL Pickering, North Yorkshire

MLMotorsport Kent

9

MINIDIVISION Stockport, Cheshire

• Mini Specialist 19 years • Engine/Gearbox/ Stock to Race • Rebuilds/MoT/Service

• Service & Repair • MOT work & Welding • Engine Rebuilds & Tuning • Rolling Road tuning and set up

• Repairs • Restorations • Servicing

01474 825123

07957 128229/ 07931 324391

0161 429 7020

www.mlmotorsport.com

www.minidivision.co.uk

11

NORTHWEST MINI CENTRE Glossop, Derbyshire

NEWENT BODY REPAIR CENTRE Newent, Gloucestershire

• Restoration • Service + Repair • Engine & Gearbox Specialists • Mail Order Parts • Custom Builds

• Bodywork & Welding • Painting & Re-sprays • Full or Part Restoration

www.northwestminicentre.co.uk

www.newentbodyrepairs.co.uk

01531 820093

07815 777 049

12

18

4

13 COL’S MINI CENTRE

THE PREMIER MINI COMPANY Shropshire

Redditch, Worcestershire

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CLASSIC MINICRAFT Maidstone, Kent

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15 COVENTRY CLASSIC MINIS Warwickshire

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16

M&C WHITE MOTOR ENGINEERS Tavistock, Devon • Service & Repairs • Welding • MOT’s • Sales & Parts 01822 614587

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Mini & Classic Car Specialists All work undertaken

07711 100 397 01603 423 522 - out of hours www.classiccarrepairs-norwich.co.uk miniclubman12@googlemail.com

18

THE MINI WORKS Edinburgh, Scotland • Bodywork & Painting • Engine & Gearbox Work • Parts & Restoration • Servicing & MOT

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THE MINI RESTORATION COMPANY Rainford, Lancashire

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Date: Sunday 10th July 2016 Venue: Rockingham Visit: miniworldlive.co.uk Mini World Live brings together the best examples of classic and modern Minis from around the UK and Europe. Featuring nonstop track action, hundreds of club cars on display, trade stands, live features and stunts, plus the support of the UK’s three biggest Mini magazines. The show will play host to the automotive legend in the most diverse collection of Britain’s favourite car. The paddock will be crammed with some of the finest presented Minis in the country, everything from immaculately restored classics to modern modified motors. And If that’s not enough, there’s track action taking place all day across two circuits plus live stunt shows, show and shine, trade stands and the support of the UK’s three biggest Mini magazines. Mini World Live promises to be a pktmags.com/fastcar true celebration of all things Mini.


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