Consumer Attitude and Behaviour towards Luxury Fashion Counterfeiting Business (Stage 2) by Tsang Wing Yan Jessica

COUNTERFEITS Consumer Attitude and Behaviour towards Luxury Fashion Counterfeiting Business STAGE 2

Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design 31 / 2012 Institute of Vocational Education – Hong Kong

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2018/19

Module: FASH30006 Fashion Concepts & Innovation Project

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Module reference: FASH30006 Module Leader: Cassandra Ng

FASH30006 Fashion Concepts & Innovation Project Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. ( Tsang Wing Yan, Jessica) Signed …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 10/3/2019 Date ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… (Word count:_______3616________)

Content Introduction

P.1 - P.2

#Background

P.3 - P.4

#Research Purpose and Questions

P.4

#Contribution of Research

P.5 - P.6

Literature Review

P.7

#Conceptualizing Luxury Fashion Brands

P.7

#Counterfeit Business

P.7

#Perceived brand value

P.8

#Motivation of Getting Luxury Goods

P.9

#or Luxury Counterfeits Proposed Research Methodology #Approach Primary or Secondary #Research Instrument #Sampling Research Analysis and Result #Findings #Discussion and Conclusion Expected Outcomes Work Plan References Bibliography Appendix

P.10 - P.11

INTRODUCTION Background Counterfeit culture is a thriving market industry. With the advanced technology, manufacturing process, using the same real material and design, copying According to Irish Tech News, $500 billion from the fashion industry every year (Irish Tech

eroding the fashion retail counterfeiter can eﬀortlessly mimic or similar technique to imitate the the authentic goods, then make a fake one. counterfeit products take away more than

News, 2018). It is a ever growing problem that the ﬁgure of counterfeit within six years. As of last year, the apparel, textiles, footwear, handbags has been and still growing (The Fashion Law, 2018). Luxury (Fig. 1, Business Insider, 2018), Louis Vuitton brands.

Fig

cci

Counterfeit culture is especially serious in Korea and China where the hub of counterfeit goods are. In Korea, the fakes are all over the street, and seldom do the Korean care whether it is counterfeits. Although Korea is now a fashion leading country, it is also a hub of counterfeits and having lots of knock-oﬀ brands. bel

Fig. 3 Supreme bag

goods grew $211 billion counterfeit market of amounted to $450 billion brands such as Gucci are the most counterfeited

Fig. 4 Nike sneakers

As said as Young Jon Koo who is a street style magazine photographer, Korean actually have their favourite or interested fashion brands, but those brands are not all available there. If they really want to buy it, they have to pay at least twice of the original price for the reseller. As Korean are obsessed with fashion and the trend is going fast, they care more about the style and price instead of concerning the authenticity of the product. Since they cannot buy the brands such as Supreme and Champion from official retail store, many knock-off brand and counterfeit goods appeared. Some of the Korean choose to buy counterfeits, and some of them just vague about what they bought. Based on the research of Highsnobiety, no one really cares or know they are wearing fakes, they do not even feel guilty to sell or wear counterfeits. In China, counterfeit luxury goods are their big business. The Chinese manufacture and sell the fake goods, they even open knock-off shop to pretend as the real luxury brand’s store. China is named as biggest counterfeiting country in the world. Based on the report of 2018 Global Brand Counterfeiting, China is estimated as the 86% fakes goods origination. The counterfeit goods seller even sell the products openly, and the customer also know which is fake buy still buy it for own reason. The counterfeiter produce the fake goods in low quality to reduce the cost, then sell higher than its value by using the reputation of

Fig. 5 Knock-oﬀ store of LV

the real brand to get the biggest profit. They will set a higher retail price first, then tell the customer it is a high quality imitation, similar and cheaper than the real one. Then they will negotiate the price with a strong attitude to customer and urge them to buy. The final selling price is usually much lower and different between different customers. They try to get the biggest profit from every different customer by asking them their ideal price, then lower the price to match their requirements. This is the selling skills of the counterfeits seller. Except from counterfeit goods, in Guizhou, there is a knock-off shop (Fig. 2, Zigor Aldama, n.d.) of Louis Vuitton (LV) called “Loius Vuitton”. It has the same decoration, logo, displays with the real one. The fake store changed the alphabet of the brand name a little bit to avoid lawsuit, then they mislead the customer with their trust of the real LV to gain money.

LOUIS VUITTON “LOIUS VUITTON” FAKE

Because of the tight relationship with China, Hong Kong is also a city of fakes. Hong Kong usually plays the role of entrepot for China. Besides, The Ladies’ Market in Mong Kok (Fig. 3, Alamy, n.d.) is famous as selling counterfeit at the whole street. Foreigner go there as a tourist location. According to Hong Kong South China Morning Post (2018), in 2016, an operation code-named “Torpedo” seized 10000 counterfeits which are around USD 640000 in Ladies’ Market. It is a huge number. In 2018 January, Hong Kong Government intercepted a cargo ﬁlled with 6000 fake designer bags and wallets (Fig.4, South China Morning Post, 2018). The fake products were almost USD 109000. In addition, Hong Kong counterfeits problem even involved high school students. Customs oﬃcers arrested 101 people selling fake products in 2017, and 28 of them are only students. They sell apparel, watches and leather products online. Although they claimed that those products are fake, but it is still illegal in Hong Kong’s law. The youngest arrester is only 13 years old.

Fig. 6 The Ladies Market

Fig. 7 Counterfeits

Counterfeits can damage a reputation of a place, and cultivate wrong value to students. It is not just a business problem within fashion industry, but also a ethical problem in the society. In view of luxury fashion brands, counterfeits bring a lot problems to fashion brands. They lost money due to counterfeit products with no doubts. If the customer brought a fake goods without knowing it in the first purchase of that brand, they will misunderstand the brand with the lower quality counterfeits. This makes the brand losing the customer and break the trust. As the Louis Vuitton source said (Business of Fashion, 2016), counterfeits can damage the reputation and consumer confidence of the brand. Counterfeit business should be contained in view of protecting the benefit of luxury fashion brands. Research Purpose and Questions This project is to examine the reason of why people buy counterfeit, also the consumer attitude and behaviour towards luxury fashion counterfeits. Through the project, it is also to examine the perceived value of luxury goods and luxury fashion brands recognition.

Contribution of Research This research will contribute to the literature about counterfeits and consumer behaviour. Moreover, it will give insight to luxury fashion brands regarding the reason behind the counterfeits purchase, and also the brand recognition among consumer. Thus, the research will provide direction to luxury fashion brands in branding and in resistance to counterfeits.

Literature Review Conceptualizing Luxury Fashion Brands The word of luxury refers to products, services or lifestyle (Wiedman, Hennigs, & Siebels, 2007). Luxury implies to exclusiveness, it can bring excitement when purchasing luxury goods (Berry, 1994). Therefore, luxury products can linked to materialism (Henriksen, 2009). Meanwhile, luxury is a subjective feeling, it associated to something beautiful and comfortable (Dubois and Czellar, 2002). In other words, Luxury is a form of enjoyment and bring pleasure. It bring fulfillment in both functional and psychological needs of consumer (Berry, 1994). With the definition from Vigneron and Johnson (1999), luxury brand is on the top of the pyramid of prestigious brands, it involved both physical and psychological values. Luxury fashion brands provide fashion products in highest price, best quality, unique design or haute couture and best service. Luxury fashion brand is usually characterised by high price tag (Dubois and Czellar, 2002). Luxury fashion goods have the highest price and quality ratio among the market (McKinsey 1990). They are also restricted in supply quantity (Vigneron and Johnson 2004, p. 485). Some example of luxury fashion brands are Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada. Because of its expensiveness and limited supply, it can create high-class image and status to the consumer. It strikes the consumer to purchase luxury fashion products for own desire rather than the functionality of the products (Jackson, 2004). Besides, this is the superiority of luxury fashion brands to be differentiated from lower level brands or counterfeits (Arghavan and Zaichkowsky 2000). Within the different luxury fashion brands, the level of exclusivity, products quality, brand identity and awareness are the main factors to compete with other competitors (Phau and Prendergast 2000).

Counterfeit Business According to the Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) Agreement, counterfeit is any goods including packaging using the others trademark without authorization or substantially indistinguishable (World Trade Organization, 1994). The meaning of fashion counterfeits covers the unauthorized use of design, brand names, trademark, logo, iconic things such as colors, shapes and pattern (Staake and Thiesse, 2009). Counterfeit goods are same as pirated goods, they are also illegal (Lai and Zaichkowsky 1999). Counterfeit is made to confuse or deceive the consumer with the high similarity of the authentic goods. With reference of International Anti-counterfeiting Coalition (n.d.), counterfeit goods are normally made from lower quality materials or components, intending to sell a cheap imitation of similar or exactly the same goods of the brands consumers know and trust. Counterfeit products mainly imitate the western brands. Counterfeit goods can fulfill the physical needs of consumer, but it is far from the high standard in functional quality of the genuine goods. Counterfeits have high visual but low functional quality (Staake and Thiesse, 2012). Counterfeit business build upon the renowned brands name-related earnings. The trademarks and brand reputation of luxury brand enriched the substandard fashion luxury counterfeits. Counterfeiter need not to invest much in product development and production, as well as machinery and facilities, since those processes had already done by the brand. They only copy from the authentic goods and produce it in lower quality. Counterfeiter are sensitive to the new trends and having solid re-engineering skills, so they can quickly imitate the products. Regarding the export of counterfeits, they export with large consignments and send to street vendors for selling by middlemen (Staake and Thiesse, 2012). However, the counterfeits are also selling through different online platforms. Perceived brand value Branding is endowing meaning to the products or services, building up specific impression to consumer so as to strengthen the brand position. Branding is the power of a brand, it can also engage and retain the customer, as well as to increase their loyalty to the brand (Kotler & Keller, 2015). A strong branding strategy makes the brand standing out from others by shaping own unique style. It enhances the value of the product and helps consumer to recognize and identify the product (Kotler & Keller, 2015). Without branding, the product is not compete, it is not as worthy as the branded product. Therefore, counterfeits are not valuable than the authentic goods even they got similar or same outside because they are different inside. Authentic goods have branding, they are meaningful. Branding makes difference. The differences between brands are usually connected to brand attributes or the benefits from product (Keller, 2003). For example, TOMS is a brand created with a charitable brand image. Consumer brought a pair of shoes, they donate the same thing afterwards. TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie did it for the underprivileged people. This made the brand unique and attract customer choose them due to the feeling of helping someone during the purchase (Referral Candy Blog, 2018). People not only buy for the products but also the meaning. TOMS fulfilled the physical need of consumer and even gave deeper meaning to the product. Therefore, people who buy counterfeit do not care or clear about the brand value and brand story, or they don’t know they brought the fake. 5

Motivation of Getting Luxury Goods or Luxury Counterfeits Product is like an identity card show the status of consumer. People no longer buy for function and product appearance, they are buying for the intangible construction of identity (Elliott and Wattanasuwan 1998). In the consumer culture, there was a new concept about “The Performing Self”, it emphasized on appearance, display and impression management (Featherstone, 1991). Purchasing luxury Goods are symbolic consumption and identity construction. Status consciousness and high self-image encourage people purchase genuine products, because those products convey the image of affluent,social class that match high self-image (Wee, Tan, and Cheok 1995). Based on the research of Li and Kambele (2012), people have a concept of wearing luxury fashion brands is financially successful, sophisticated, high social class and got respected. Wearing luxury fashion brands can help integrating into the society. Apart from the status and identity showing, consumer of genuine luxury brand also aims for utilitarian function. Luxury fashion goods are in a consistent quality and providing good customer service and after-sales service in consumers’ mind. In short, identity construction, service, quality and function are the main factors motivating people buy luxury fashion brands. On the other hand, people who buy counterfeits actually have the same motivation that they aim for the identity. Counterfeits consumers feel fine with the low quality and poor materials. The external physical vanity drives counterfeits consumer to purchase the fake goods. Both genuine and counterfeit products can provide identical appearances to consumer, thus to satisfy their materialistic mind (Yoo and Lee, 2009). However, the price of counterfeits are just mere fraction of genuine luxury brands’ prices, but consumers can feel the same value with genuine goods and enjoy economic benefits through counterfeits (Albers-Miller 1999).

PROPOSED RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Approach Primary or Secondary The purpose of asking the perception of luxury fashion counterfeits is to determine counterfeits consumers’ characteristics, behaviour and attitude. Also it can ﬁnd out their construction on self-concept and social self-image. The methods used to measure their perception based on a previous study by Perez and Quintanilla (2010). The study resulted in three types of counterfeits consumers’ attitude including being eﬃcient in their investment, having fun through the consumption, fooling others with the fake pretending the genuine goods. With the reference of this study, the research will obtain more information of behaviour

and attitude when people buy the counterfeits in before, present and after. In the research, all interviewees are female, as a previous study showed that women have stronger brand involvements (Sherrod, 1989). Compared with men, women have greater relationship to fashion (Sparke, 1995, as cited in Thompson and Haykto, 1997). The research is a qualitative research to get in-depth understanding of consumers’ behaviour and attitude (D Silverman, 2016).

was started from a question asking if they ever purchase a luxury fashion counterfeit. In the interview, questions were separated to ﬁve aspects as demographic characteristics, self-image description, social inﬂuences, consumption habits and luxury fashion counterfeit consumption experiences. As the topic is about the counterfeit purchasing experience, some people are not willing to do the interview. They are sensitive about the question and denied that they owned counterfeits.

Research Instrument The research is an offline survey. There is an interview to 10 Hong Kong female who have brought at least one counterfeits of luxury fashion brands in past year. The age range of research group is 20 to 30 years old. Through the 1 on 1 face-to-face interview, it can obtain more and deeper information from the interviewee. Based on their response, more specific question can be asked. The interview is in progress in Causeway Bay Milan Station nearby. Milan Station is a store selling second-hand luxury handbag. There are likely more people who want a genuine luxury fashion products but they cannot afford the high price, so they may have experience of purchasing counterfeits.

For the full sample, all of them are female. Six of them are single, two are married and two are in a relationship. Half of the interviewees have university education, two are higher education, and three are high school graduates. The represented occupations within the interviewees are ordinary company employees (50%), students (30%), manager (10%) and government oﬃcer (10%). Three interviewees have less than HKD 10000 monthly income and they are all students. Two interviewees have HKD 10000 to HKD 15000 monthly income, HKD 15001 to HKD 20000 for three interviewees, HKD 20001 to HKD 25000 for two interviewees.

Sampling The research conducted 10 interviews with people who had bought at least one counterfeit products. They are all counterfeit consumer. The age range of interviewees is 20 to 30 years old. Each interview lasted 15 to 30 minutes. To conﬁrm the interviewee who satisﬁed the requirements of research, each interview

Research Analysis and Result Findings The research conducted factor analyses of self-image, social influences and consumption habits to examine how they affect the luxury fashion counterfeit consumption experiences. Most of the interviewee described themselves as a positive person using the adjective optimistic, elegant, pretty and smart. They are quite focused on self-appearance. This probably links to how they choose the products when purchasing something as to construct self-image. Regarding their interest in spare time, all of them include browsing internet and social media. They get information about beauty, fashion, celebrity information on social network. It makes them easy be affected by the media. Besides, emotion also affect people in consumption. Four interviewees said that they will make consumption when they feel happy or depressed. Consumption can definitely affect people’s emotion vice versa.

people who affect them a lot in their life, a majority of interviewees chose family, friends and idol. Those people can affect their consumption. For example, an interviewees said she will buy the clothes that her idol wears. Another interviewee expressed that she will save money on the consumption of her idol such as concert ticket, so she spent less money on other aspect like clothing. She sometimes buy counterfeit due to the economic benefit.

“I will empty my shopping cart and buy those all on my wish list when I am happy.” (Jane, age 20)

Regarding their consumption habits, they mostly shop online. It is also their usual way to purchase counterfeits. The frequency of making purchase of fashion products is one to two times per month. One of the interviewee mentioned she have seen a pretty clothes on a celebrity, and she immediately bought one on internet. Fashion business is developing maturely in online to oﬄine. The interviewee disclosed she always do that capturing the clothes in the photo, then ﬁnd out the brand of it by photo searching engine, and buy it online. The whole process lasted not more than one hour from seeing the clothes to purchasing it.

About the social inﬂuence, eight of the interviewees care a lot of how other people see them especially their appearance. Second, they also worried about how others evaluate their dressing style followed by economic and social status. To increase the image in others mind, they usually make changes in make-up, keeping in touch with the latest fashion trend. When asking about the

When the interviewees purchase fashion products, all of them will ﬁrst consider of the design. Brand reputation and quality will also be prioritized. They spend more than HKD 500 in every purchase. From the result data, a majority of them attach importance in design, quality and brand name, and they are willing to spend much money in each purchase except the few interviewees who are students.

The research identified three factors which affect the interviewees in purchasing fashion luxury counterfeit. The three values are social or emotional value, utilitarian value and economic value. The interviewees buy counterfeit online. The most purchased categories among interviewees are clothing, accessories and handbag. They spend around HKD 100 to HKD 8000 in luxury counterfeits in different categories. The acceptable luxury counterfeits price range is huge based on their different values in social and emotional, utilitarian and economy. For the counterfeit consumer who shop for social or emotional value, they are easy be affected by own emotion and the traditional concept of luxury goods. They have the most counterfeits. In their mind, luxury goods are symbol of high-class. Some interviewees said they want to own a lot luxury handbags because they are all pretty and look sophisticated. She want to create an elegant image from others and fulfil her own physical needs by using different luxury handbags. Besides, the counterfeits look almost the same with the real goods, she is satisfied with using the high visual counterfeit but misleading others as the real one. She do not think that people can differentiate the difference at a glance at street. She felt excited after using the counterfeit product at her first time because no one discover that it is fake.

“I can easily get a counterfeit one, and change another one whenever I am bored with it.” (Dion, age 23) For the counterfeit consumer who have a utilitarian value, they purchase the less counterfeits. When they consider between counterfeit and authentic goods, they think of the application. One of the interviewee bought a ruffled halter neck dress that she saw on an idol in her latest purchase. The dress is originally from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini cost USD 950, but she bought the counterfeit by USD 47. The dress was for attending the annual dinner of her company which is a luxury brand. Her colleagues prepared gorgeous and expensive dress for annual dinner, so she will be awkward with dressing up ordinary dress in that occasion. However, the dress is not that suitable for daily casual wear and will only wear once, so she did not want to invest much on the dress and then bought the counterfeit. Another interviewee said that there was no need to buy the real one if it is a trendy design and will go out of fashion. In short, the frequency and application of the products affect whether the interviewee buy the counterfeit.

For the counterfeit consumer who buy for the economic value, they mostly concerned about the price as they have low budget. They cannot afford the high price real products, so they choose the fake goods. The reason of counterfeit consumption is to reduce the money while getting luxury goods. However, some of the interviewees stated that they will buy the authentic one if they can afford someday. They feel nervous and shame when using the fake products walking nearby the luxury stores. They scared to be discovered. Moreover, the quality of counterfeit is not that good sometimes. Therefore, they want to experience the luxury goods consumption. Quality of the product, brand prestige and luxury lifestyle actually attract them to purchase authentic goods, the only obstacle is the price. “I have no budget but I want it. I’m gonna get the fake one.” (Jennifer, age 20) Discussion and Conclusion This research assesses how the social or emotional value, utilitarian value and economic value affect the consumption decision, attitude and behaviour on luxury fashion counterfeits.

counterfeits. Those consumers are pursuing a desired social self-image on identity construction through deception with luxury fashion counterfeits (Cherrier and Murray, 2007). In view of the utilitarian value counterfeit consumer, they purchase after weighing the necessity, trend and quality. If the item is a classic design which can last for a long time, they will choose to purchase an authentic one as the quality is better for long use. They will not do investment on authentic trendy luxury goods in fast changing trend. This kind of consumer consider themselves as efficient experts in consumption (Perez and Quintanilla, 2010). They think that they make the most suitable choice for different situation. For the economic value counterfeit consumers who cannot afford or not willing to pay for authentic goods, luxury fashion counterfeit provide an elevated feeling to them (Wilke and Zaichkowsky, 1999).

For the social or emotional value counterfeit consumers, they enjoy the fame brought by luxury counterfeits. They construct their identity through luxury brands. Luxury fashion counterfeits help them building up conﬁdence in front of others. They have demand on fulﬁlling physical needs through having luxury

Expected Outcomes

Luxury fashion brands should improve consumer awareness and minimise the desire of consumer to search and purchase counterfeits. To decrease their motivation in searching the counterfeits after seeing the authentic products, brands may provide some instant promotion, or set limited amount to increase willingness of customer to buy in that moment they saw the products. When consumers are loyal to the brand and highly involved with it, they will purchase counterfeits lesser (dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Astous and Gargouri, 2001). Moreover, the superiority of using luxury counterfeits should be eliminated. It can encourage people to choose the authentic products.

A campaign to raise awareness on genuine luxury products may needed. Luxury fashion brands may also reďŹ ne the marketing strategies to consolidate and keep the original customer, and attract new customer meanwhile.

Work Plan

Image References Fig. 1 Dior (2019), Mini Dior Oblique Saddle Bag, Online image, Available at: https://www.dior.com/en_hk/products/couture-M0447CTZQ_M928_TU-mini-dior-oblique-saddle-bag Accessed: 10/04/2019 Fig. 2 A Closer Look (2018), Real vs Replica Gucci How to Spot a Fake Gucci Belt, Online image, Available at: https://www.google.com/search?hl=zh-TW&biw=1280&bih=530&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=3COqXImVJM2xmAWJha7wBg&q=gucci+Counterfeit&oq=gucci+Counterfeit&gs _l=img.3..35i39j0i19j0i8i30i19.432190.433460..434205...0.0..0.96.348.5......1....1..gws-wiz-img..... ..0i7i30j0i7i5i30j0i8i7i30.YWpYUdTv_Xs#imgrc=b95cFkNsRq03CM: Accessed: 20/01/2019 Fig. 3 Newbold, A. (2018), "Counterfeit Nike Air Jordans Ring Worth $73 million Shut Down", Vogue, Aug 9, p.1, Online image, Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/counterfeit-nike-air-jordan-ring-new-york Accessed: 20/01/2019 Fig. 4 Schrader, R. (2019), "The World's Most Shameless Fake Stores", Tripsavvy, Feb 25, p.1, Online image, Available at: https://www.tripsavvy.com/the-worlds-most-shameless-fake-stores-4109283 Accessed: 15/03/2019 Fig. 5 Aldama.Z, n.d., Is that a Loius Vuitton? No, it’s a Plada: China’s Knock-oﬀ Economy, Online image, Available at: https://www.inkstonenews.com/business/how-chinese-counterfeiters-are-making-money-street-and-online/article/2162237 Accessed: 01/02/2019 Fig. 6 Alamy, n.d., China, Hong Kong, Kowloon, Mong Kok, Ladies Market, Online image, Available at: https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-china-hong-kong-kowloon-mong-kok-ladies-market-41276335.html Accessed: 01/02/2019 Fig.7 South China Morning Post, 2017, ‘Rise in Hong Kong School Students Caught Selling Fake Goods Online’, Available at: https://www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/law-crime/article/2102856/rise-hong-kong-school-students-caught-selling-fakes-goods Accessed: 10/03/2019

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