PURPLE GLOBE
“CORONAVIRUS”
ISSUE 1 VIETNAM
corona fashion
by tuesday4ever P. 3
v_style by thach minh hieu P.
COVER #1 DO QUYEN HOA EMBROIDERED FACE MASKS
COVER #2 HANH WEARING “AO TAC” BY VSTYLE
MOI DIEN
COVER #3 HANH WEARING “LAP LINH NGHE” BY VSTYLE
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fashionaly conscious P. 6 PURPLE ADVERTORIAL DRESS CONSCIOUSLY WITH MOI DIEN
fancyclubb
P. 9
PURPLE CONTRIBUTOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION IN FASHION’S FAVOURITE OFFSHORING COUNTRY
self beyond the mask P. PURPLE BEAUTY
PURPLE
#1
f/w
2020/21
GLOBE THE CORONA ISSUE VIETNAM
cover photo by thach minh hieu
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EDITO The Corona issue is the first issue of Purple Globe, a new supplement of Purple magzine. Purple Globe is built around a central value of celebrating cultural diversity, aims to bring together aspiring talents around the world, whose contrasting philosophies, beliefs and cultural upbringing conjoin together through photography, art and fashion.
Each issue focuses on a geographical place, and its corresponding perspectives of a current global matter. With a community of international story-tellers and visual makers, Purple Globe hopes to bring to its audience a chance to see the world through an intercontinental lense. The Corona issue reflects lives in quaratine of Vietnamese people. This issue explores the Vietnamese fashion scenes as well as its up and coming talents and how they have responsed to the pandemic from an artistic angle. A common theme that you’ll find, is the feature of face masks as a fashion accessories. Along with galleries of curated and orchestrated fashion covers, I hope you will enjoy discovering what Vietnam has to offer, just like I had during the making of this magazine, as you flip through the pages of Purple Globe.
_ TUESDAY4EVER 2
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INSPIRED BY NEW WAVE CREATIVE, LESLIE ZHANG
CCONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE TRADITIONAL CLOTHES “AO TAC” AND “AO LAP LINH NGHE” BY VSTYLE
CỔ PH
CREATIVE DIRECTED AND STYLED, TUESDAY4EVER PHOTOGRAPHY, THACH MINH HIEU PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT, PHAM HUONG NHI MAKE UP, LE MINH ENG MODEL, HANH TRAN
HỤC CÁCH TÂN
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C O R O N A FASHION
I N THE WAKE OF CORONAVIRUS, WHAT HAS EMERGED IS AN UNEXPECTED FASHION ACCESSORIES - LUXURY FACE MASK
In January of 2020, an outbreak that started in Wuhan, China, was declared as a Public Health Emergency of International Concern. Fast forward to the present, there is now 7.04+ million confirmed cases of CoviD-19 (Corona Virus Disease 2019) worldwide. Since then, billions of dollars have been shed by industries that are considered not very essential, including lifestyle commodities and those that thrive in mass gatherings like concerts and shows. Our fashion industry is in a weary position. People are turning to practicality over aesthetics. Fashion shows cancelled, and productions redirected to survival products (take Louis VuittoN scrubs and face masks production for example). Millions of people in the fashion industry have lost their jobs, and the virus still roams free. How will we survive in this new world? Can the fashion industry ever recover? The human desire for beauty is unkillable. Emerging in the dire world of CoviD-19, an unlikely fashion accessory is taking over the runways - DESIGNER FACE MASKS.
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DO QUYEN HOA’S FACE MASKS, WORN BY MY MOTHER AND NHI PHOTOGRAPHY & TEXT BY TUESDAY4EVER
A STREET VENDOR PULLED DOWN HER MASK TO CATCH FRESH AIR
Retail data company EDITED released a report on the growing popularity of fashion face masks as a result of countries imposing mandatory use of face coverings in public. “Over 50 countries around the world now require people to cover their faces when outside the home.” Although the U.S and the U.K have just recently put this new strategy into practice, countries like Czech Republic, south Korea and Vietnam have been long promoting public usage since the initial phase of Coronavirus. And evidently, these countries have a significantly better response to CoviD-19. Where I am from, Vietnam has had 0 deaths, and an overall of 355 cases, in which 325 have recovered. Face masks were not particularly well-received during the beginning of the pandemic. Before WHO released its new guidelines acknowledging face masks providing a level of protection from the airborne virus, the organisation itself warned against their actual effectiveness. Perhaps, this is due to a shortage of medical graded face masks for frontline medical workers. This has seemingly contributed to a negative connotation that comes with wearing face masks, especially in Western
culture, with the assumption of whoever wears one is because that they are ill, and that they are a threat to the people around them. However, face masks have always been a part of Asian cultures, even before the CoviD-19 outbreak. In Vietnam, motorcycles swarm the streets. Face masks are widely used to protect commuters from microdust and urban smoke. Aside from being a protective gear against air pollutants, it also acts as a “social block”, similar to wearing headphones. This “face mask culture” in Asia originated in Japan, when the Spanish flu outbreak swept through the country’s population in 1918. Since then, face mask culture prevails in Japan and many other Asian countries, including Vietnam. Wearing face masks has long been common, and Asian communities who have been embracing this culture have quickly accepted their governments’ requirement to wear them in public. Vietnamese designer Do Quyen Hoa gained international recognition for her line of embroidered luxury face masks. After noticing foreign tourists in Vietnam refusing to wear face coverings in public, while ignoring the Vietnamese government’s guidelines, she became interested in understanding why. Quyen Hoa revealed in her many interviews with news platforms like Euronews and Kenh14, that after reaching out to tourists in Hanoi, she found out it was because traditional medical face masks “do not look nice when paired with their outfits”. Thus, she has released a line of embroidered luxury face masks, as a way to encourage people to wear them, both for their health and for fashion. Hoa was surprised at the unexpected virality that her face masks have created. Since the launch of her face masks, which go for $20 each, Hoa now has over 200 orders a month from customers around the world. She
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employed embroiderers from traditional Vietnamese artisanal villages, who have been out of work during lockdown, to give them a source of income from her face masks production line. I reached out to Quyen Hoa on her personal Facebook account, hoping to speak to her on her recent success. Hoa invited me over to her house, which is also her studio and her fashion store. This was the only opportunity for me to have an interview with the designer, before she embarks on a fivedays journey outside of Hanoi. Tucked away in a small alley on Duong Lang, Hoa’s store is only a couple of houses down from the big street. My mother parked her motorcycle only a few centimetres away from the metal gate, to avoid being scraped by vehicles coming in and out of the narrow alley. We were greeted by her husband, who led us through the glass door, into where Hoa displays all of her embroidery products: next to her baskets filled with the infamous face masks, rows of velvet gowns, jackets and even leather boots, all adorned with intricate embroidery, neatly stood next to one another. Hoa was occupied in the kitchen when we arrived. She stopped upon seeing us and invited us to sit at her dinner table. We only managed to exchange a few introductory words, before Hoa quickly rushed to show us her collection of luxury fashion items on display. According to her, she indeed did not expect the overwhelmingly positive response on her face masks. However, she revealed to me her discontentment on how the medias have refused to acknowledge her apparel line, which costs up to $2500 per piece. After a prolonged period of walking around in astonishment and awkward adoration, we quickly purchased two face masks, before parting with Hoa. I held the face masks in my hands as we walked out. $40 dollars. It is a price that not many Vietnamese can afford, especially when you can
easily find one being sold by street vendors for less than $5. The idea of luxury face masks seems to be an absurdity to many. But evidently, from Hoa’s quantity of international orders, which mostly come from Western countries like the States, these items are in high demands from perhaps higherearning figures. “Fashion trends come and go.” The saying is the fundamental structure of the world of fashion. Fashion face masks are growing in popularity. Is the trend here to stay? I predict that it would, as the impacts of CoviD-19 have gone down as one of the most detrimental in our history, and we are doomed by its long-lasting consequences for years to come. And if face masks do become a norm in popular cultures, what I am interested in is whether Western culture becomes more receptive of it in a positive light, especially when an Asian person wears it. Xenophobia towards Asian communities have been soaring since the outbreak. President Donald Trump once labelled Coronavirus as the “Chinese virus”. More and more Asian owned businesses are being vandalised with looting and racist remarks. Personally, I unwillingly spooked a young boy at a bus stop once while I was still in London, by being an Asian wearing a face mask. The encounter was weird and awkward, but I found out the reaction could’ve been more dangerous and violent. My friend Mo, another Vietnamese student in London, was coming home from work in Soho. She, also, was wearing a face mask. As she was walking, a man passed by and slapped the back of her head, while mumbling “Coronavirus”. The situation could have escalated into a case of serious assault, like how a Singaporean student was beat up violently by a group of youths in Oxford Circus with CoviD-19 related motivation.
DO QUYEN HOA’S EMBROIDERED VELVET GOWNS
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Face masks have become an essential item during the “CoviD-19 season”. There are reports on how the virus has the potential to be recognised as an endemic, meaning along with it will never go away, similar to HIV, chicken pox or measles. Face masks will soon become a common sight on the streets. Maybe purchases of luxury face masks will be regarded like buying a new Hermes bag. What I hope, is that as the world becomes more welcoming of the face mask culture, xenophobia against Asian people due to CoviD-19 will become a thing of the past. END.
artwork BY TUESDAY4EVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY Text by TUESDAY4EVER
moidien.com
“Lung” bucket hat, “Ky Si Yem” top, “Vay Rong” skirt, “Ba Gang Hoa Tay” tote
A country of rich historical values and a robust textile industry, Vietnam offers its pool of talented designers opportunities to marry its tradition with contemporary fashion. The literal translation of “Mad Lips”, Moi Dien has established itself as an edge within the Vietnamese fashion scene. Expressive and avant-garde, with a motto of “environmentally responsble”, Tom Trandt’s eccentric fashion lable leads a new wave of Vietnamese high-fashion designers, who are conscious, boundless and confrontational in the face of traditional boundaries, while still paying homage to their heritage.
PURPLE ADVERTORIAL8
SELF BEYOND THE TEXT BY TUESDAY4EVER ILLUSTRATION BY TUESDAY4EVER
Coronavirus has influenced many industries, including the beauty segment. A report by McKinsey reveals the sales of color cosmetics and fragance to have decreased by 55% and 77% respectively in 2020, compared to prior year’s figures. Makeup gives us the power of self-expression. Our assumed external identities are constructed from how we display ourselves, before the initial verbal words are spoken. But as face masks become more essential, the use of color cosmetics has been limited to what’s beyond the mask. And seemingly, our ability to express ourselves using cosmetics has been robbed.
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PURPLE
Beauty Editorial
TUESDAY4EVER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR & STYLIST QUYNH HUU, PHOTOGRAPHER HUONG NGUYEN, MAKE-UP & HAIR NHI PHAM, PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT
MASK But I belive that your decision to protect yourself and others around you shouldn’t jeopardise your freedom of creative expression. It’s time to bring the focus to the eyes. Imagined in a world post-CoviD, where beauty becomes excessive and extravagant as a coping mechanism to the pandemic’s consequences. Purple Globe’s beauty editorial feature a visually captivating beauty look accompanied by fashion-forward face masks. Use more colors, use feathers. Because even in times of uncertainties, our desire for beauty thrives.
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PURPLE
CONTRIBUTOR
STARTED AS AN ONLINE THRIFT STORE, NOW FANCYCLUBB IS AMONGST THE LEADING PIONEERS STIRRING UP THE SCENE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION IN
INTERVIEW BY TUESDAY4EVER
PHOTOGRAPHY IN COURTESY OF FANCYCLUBB
VIETNAM.
Sustainable fashion in fashion industry’s favourite offshoring country IN CONVERSATION WITH FANCYCLUBB 11
TUESDAY4EVER - Please introduce yourself. What do you do? Where are you based? When was Fancyclubb established? FANCYCLUBB - Fancyclubb was originally founded as “Fancy Thrift” in 2008, selling thrifted items mainly through Instagram. Now we are designing customised apparel pieces under our new name “Fancyclubb”. We are based in Saigon and our products are mostly sold online. TUESDAY4EVER - Who is the person behind Fancyclubb? Is it an independent designer or a collective group of founders? What is your role in the brand? FANCYCLUBB - My name is Duy, founder of Fancyclubb. Yes, I am an independent designer. My roles mainly play as lead designer and art director for the brand. TUESDAY4EVER I knew of you when you were still selling second-hand items. After a year in London, I came back to Vietnam to see “Fancythrift” has completely been rebranded into ‘Fancyclubb”, with a new focus on more sustainable approaches to thrifted items. Can you please share your development journey to the current brand image? FANCYCLUBB - I felt that the thrifted apparel market in Vietnam is becoming more popular and in demand, thus I want my brand to be more unique and to stand out more. I think it becomes boring very quickly if you just buy thrifted clothes and style them. So I came up with the idea to upcycle them into a new fashion item.
TUESDAY4EVER - What was your inspiration behind the making of the current items? FANCYCLUBB signed them just simply clothes that people, that
To be honest, I depretty randomly. I wanted to produce would look nice on is also sustainable.
TUESDAY4EVER - Do you think the sustainable message is well received by the Vietnamese consumer market? FANCYCLUBB - As of the moment, Fancyclubb along with other independent sustainable fashion brands are still considered a niche market in Vietnam. I hope that upcoming collections will gain more support from Vietnamese audience. TUESDAY4EVER - Your designs are not considered to be conventional in the eyes of Vietnamese consumers. They are definitely more risqué. What are the responses that you have received from the online communities and the Vietnamese publics so far? FANCYCLUBB - Of course, there has been mixed responses. But aside from that there are always people who support and follow Fancyclubb. Our designs are still
very different and new compared to the current trend favoured by Vietnamese youths. But there are people who have reached out to us because they love our designs, but have been yet to have an opportunity to buy them. TUESDAY4EVER - What are the difficulties that you go through in the process of developing your brand image as well as your collections? FANCYCLUBB - Finance. Photoshoots are expensive, but the quantity of each design is limited to one. However, I still want to deliver the most beautiful photos to my audience. TUESDAY4EVER - Your models defy the typical “lookbook models” that are favoured amongst Vietnamese fashion stores. I think it is amazing that you guys are breaking the beauty boundaries set by the fashion market. FANCYCLUBB - We want to show to our audience that beauty relies on no standards. Your beauty lies within your own individuality. TUESDAY4EVER - What are the messages that you wish to express to your audience? FANCYCLUBB - Be yourself. You’re beautiful in your own way.
END.
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£ 9.50