Greece tufts traveler
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letter from the Table ofeditor Contents After exploring ancient Chinese temples, wandering the streets of glittery Paris and roaming the Israeli deserts, Traveler has finally made it to the shores of exotic and ethereal Greece. Here we discover the many wonders that this vast and archaic country has to offer. We hear stories from the lush isle of Santorini, historical Athens, and the romantic port city, Thessaloniki. We even examine the hustle of modern life in comparison to the country’s historic image. If you’ve always dreamed of standing at the foot of the Acropolis or walking through thousands of years of history in the Delphi Museum, then you will most certainly enjoy this issue. As always, happy travels! - Ally
photo by becca weinstein; cover photo by anne lewis
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table of contents tufts travels
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created by anna simon
further afield
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denali hussin
face to face with a jumbo
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jenna liang
greece information guide
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tufts traveler staff
lessons from thessaloniki
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emily johnston
opa! a greek goes to greece
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marina bartzokis
modern greece
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charles vlahakis
year in review: greek politics
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daphne kolios
greece’s second “golden age”
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sarah solomon
a new view of athens
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stacy entel
when in athens...
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carly machlis and shauna pierson
apple tea
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rachael brill
cappadokya
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saanya gulati
[focus] kelsey bell
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interview by jamie ryan
editor-in-chief • ally gimbel • managing editors • anna simon • laina rosebrock • staff editors • becca weinstein• carly machlis • daphne kolios • denali hussin • eva parish • jenna liang • jamie ryan • rachael brill • rebecca grunberg • shauna pierson • layout editors • ally gimbel • anna simon • becca weinstein • eva parish • jenna liang • rebecca grunberg • contributing writers • carly machlis • charles vlahakis • daphne kolios • denali hussin • emily johnston • jamie ryan • jenna liang • marina bartzokis • sarah solomon • shauna pierson • stacy entel • rachael brill • saanya gulati • contributing photographers • anne lewis • becca weinstein • charles vlahakis • denali hussin • eva parish • jenna liang • kathryn robinson • kelsey bell • rachael brill • sarah solomon •
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Travelers by number. Name, Destination. 1. Jordy Wolfand. Anchorage, Alaska. 2. Chelle Beecher. San Juan Island, Washington. 3. Eva Parish. Montana. 4. Jenna Lohmann. Denver, Colorado to Lone Pine, California. 5. Alex Michaelson. Santa Barbara, California. 6. Laina Rosebrock. Irvine, California. 7. Anna Simon. Roadtrip to Austin, Texas. 8. Molly Newman. San Cristobal de Las Casas and Zinacantan, Mexico. 9. Kirsty Gilmour. Backpacked through Guatemala, Beliza, Nicaragua, the Corn Islands, and Costa Rica. 10. Zach Alberts. Isla de Mujeres, Mexico. 11. Alex Michaelson. Amtrakked from Boston, Massachusetts to Chicago, Illinois. 12. Ally Gimbel. Chicago, Illinois. 13. Alex Michaelson. Washington, DC. 14. Becca Wienstein. Tisch ACS Fellowship in Washington, DC. 15. Jamie Ryan. Darien, Connecticut. 16. Laina Rosebrock. Boston, Massachusetts. 17. John Salvatore. Skinny dipped in the Fells Reservoir, Massachusetts. 18. Denali Hussin. Sea kayaked around Penobscot Bay and Isle Au Haut, Maine. 19. Paige Haverstock. Dublin, Cork, Galway, and Derry, Ireland. 20. Eva Parish. Dublin, Ireland and Belfast, Northern Ireland. 21. Alex Michaelson. Language program in Saint Petersberg, Russia. Traveled to Pskov, Novgorod, Vyborg, and Peterhof, Russia. 22. Hena Kapadia. Tufts in Talloires, France. 23. Chelle Beehler. Backpacked through Italy. 24. Carly Machlis. Cruise through Italy. 25. John Kirkup. Internship on sailboat as a Turkish “Korsan.“ 26. Alex Michaelson. Israel. 27–29 Phil Ramirez. Researched in Ghana, Traveled to Togo and Nigeria. 30. Hena Kapadia. Internship in Mumbai, India.
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Tufts Travels Summer, 2009 created by anna simon 5
Further Afield:
The DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park by denali hussin If you’ve been looking for an adventure a bit further afield than Boston, or an alternative to the MFA, you need look no further than the DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park in Lincoln. This is more than a gallery. This is a museum whose pieces sprawl across 35 acres of verdant field and forest, where you can sit beneath monumental trees and picnic amongst the sculptures themselves. When I was little, I used to come here with my family. I loved the novelty of it all, and the way it felt more like a playground than an art exhibit (which I had no patience for). Returning to the DeCordova fifteen years later, I wondered if my enthusiasm for the place would hold. I needn’t have worried. I found it just as impressive, interesting, and fun as before, except that this time, with an attention span of more than 3 minutes, I could actually appreciate the fantastic indoor galleries, too. You could come here several times over and not see all there is to see. I was reassured that some of the pieces I remembered from my childhood were still in place, and I was blown away by new additions and pieces I hadn’t remembered. You never know when you’re going to walk around a copse of trees and see what looks like a larger-than-life stegosaurus spine made out of tires. The DeCordova operates on the principle that the setting of the art piece affects the perception of the art itself. A giant red stylized cutout of a man, as big as a house, juts out of a hillside. A series of stone gateways traces the course of a stream, a veil of water sheeting from the arch of each gate. A slightly macabre cluster of “Pinecone People” form a circle in the cavern created by the drooping boughs of a vast pine. The museum lends itself well to children. Semidiscordant musical notes bong out from a series of upright silver pipes that trace a sine wave through the air. You are encouraged to do as the children do and run alongside the sculpture, dragging a stick across the pipes like a giant xylophone. Just up the path, the
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sounds of The Musical Fence float to where a giant stone head lies, an expression of grave concentration on its granite face—The Listening Ear. Other muffled sounds come from a white Chrysler Sedan parked in a tent, whose windows display images of two dancers in tennis whites, flickering and contorting to the sounds of Mozart’s final, unfinished Requiem Mass in D minor. The sculpture park is inexhaustible, but the museum should not be overlooked. I had no patience for it as a five-year-old, but as a twenty-year-old, I was totally charmed and impressed. An elegant building that looks out over the nearby reservoir, the museum houses frequently updated exhibits of contemporary art. There’s a room made entirely of recycled paper and cloth, designed to look like a forest, with a great quilted tree trunk rising in the center, scraps of cloth painstakingly sewn one patch at a time to create a moss-like floor, and spiraling scraps of paper to give the illusion of whirling birds and leaves over the windows. In the next room, a simple black frame and what look like plaits of black hair are in fact the dust and debris of death: woven audio tape of a recording of Sylvia Plath, ground hip bone, gunpowder, atomic blasted sand, and more. Weird, but arresting.
The DeCordova’s website (www.decordova. org) offers directions to the museum. The entrance fee for students is $8.00, and their website details various other discounts. The DeCordova, at 51 Sandy Pond Road in Lincoln, MA, is open Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am to 5 pm.
Face to Face with a Jumbo All I can hear is the cacophony of birdcalls. I reach for the lights as I wonder how near the birds are. Directly above me, a spider the size of my palm is crawling on the outer layer of the mosquito net. I blink twice before I realize it is just before dawn in the Okavango Delta, the largest inland river delta in the world and a cradle of life in the Southern African country of Botswana. Every year, the waters from the mountains of Angola flood the Kalahari Desert where the Okavango Delta lays. This abundance of water attracts an unusually high concentration of animals, creating spectacular safari opportunities. After a warm mug of coffee, we follow our guide to the river on which the camp perches. The chilly morning weather has us layered as if we are to brave the Bostonian winter. He holds his hand up and in whispered tones asks us to stay where we are. Apparently, we are in elephant country, for no more than a stone’s throw away looms a young bull. The creature is anything but small. In fact, these leviathans are known for their unpredictability and are often dangerous when they decide to charge. We watch as our guide takes out a pen not unlike a laser-pointer. Seconds later, there is an explosion. Diving for cover, I don’t realize the device is a mere deterrent and nothing more than a fire cracker. Safe from the intruding elephant, we step into our await-
by jenna liang
ing mokoros. This traditional vessel, painstakingly carved out of a single tree trunk, is still used for fishing and transportation today. With nothing but a long stick, our captain, Peter, guides us along the shallow paths that are created when the Okavango River floods every year. We glide along, peering over the savannah, seemingly floating while enjoying the serenity of water and grass reaching as far as the eye can see. Along the way, Peter points out frogs that are invisible to the human eye. We watch as light creeps across from the east, caressing every reed of grass in its way, bringing longawaited warmth to this hidden paradise. A sunrise viewing on a mokoro would be the perfect romantic card to play to charm one’s way into a girl’s heart. Despite the fact that the Okavango Delta has some of the most stunning scenery and is teeming with wildlife, the best way to enjoy a safari is to tour with the locals. A former officer of the Botswana anti-poaching unit, our guide, Gilbert, is extraordinarily knowledgeable about the creatures we encounter. Taking particular care to highlight each animals’ reproductive instincts, he explains how males “deliver the goods” or “provide the services” to the female. When in musth (heat), male elephants appear to have six legs, including their feet, trunk and 40 pound sex organ. Not only is he well-informed about animals from his former days in active service, he also inherited rally-like driving skills. Huddling towards the center of the open jeep and howling in laughter, we brace ourselves as he decides to set a new land record on the Botswanan back roads. One of the most untarnished areas in the world, the Okavango Delta is a true jewel of Africa. Never have I seen such breath-taking landscape or such variety in wildlife. For me, my time in Botswana was an adventure of a lifetime and a quick glimpse of heaven. I returned with not only porcupine spikes and 40 gigabytes worth of photographs but also fond memories of a holiday deep in the heart of Africa.
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“leave no stone
photo by eva parish
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unturned...�
-euripides
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greece information guide
No part of Greece is more than
There are
158
85
verses in the Greek National Anthem
miles from the sea for the adventurer... •
•
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Go windsurfing. The best place to ride the water is Vassiliki, one if Europe’s most famous windsurfing destinations. Scale a mountain. Climb Mount Olympos (9,570ft), believed by the ancients to be home of Zeus, or scale Mount Pasnassos (2,457m/8,061ft) near Delphi. Take a hike. Trek the length of the Samaria Gorge (11.2 miles) on Crete, or the Vikos Gorge (8 miles) in Epirus.
The popular yo-yo toy, the second oldest known toy in the world, originated in ancient Greece, around years ago.
3,000
photos by anne lewis and kathryn robinson
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for the history buff... National Archaeological Museum of Athens The museum houses some of the best examples of Greek art. Artifacts from prehistoric Greece all the way up to Roman times are exhibited in its halls, including a large collection of Mycenaean artifacts, archaic Kouros statues, and masterpieces from the Classical and Hellenistic eras. The Acropolis Museum Located at the site of the ancient Acropolis ruins, this museum houses an incredible collection of art and architecture. The highlights are the parthenon frieze, a large collection of Kouros and Kore statues, and the original Caryatides statues from the Erectheon. Delphi Museum The Delphi Museum houses artifacts unearthed from the ancient oracle of Delphi. It houses some very important sculptures from Archaic, Classical, and Hellenistic Greece, including the Charioteer of Delphi, and the two Kouros statues known as Kleovis and Biton.
There are over
3000
islands in Greece
learn greek! Hello Goodbye How are you? Do you speak English? Thank you You’re welcome Excuse me What time is it? How much?
γεíα σου αντίο τι κανεις μηλάς αγγλικά σ’ευχαριστώ παρα καλώ με συγχωρείτε τι ώρα είναι πόσο
yía sou adío ti káneis milás agliká s’efharistó para kaló me sighoreíte ti óra eínai póso
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Lessons from Thessaloniki by emily johnston This summer, while studying abroad in Germany, some friends and I took a weekend trip to Greece. It was the last weekend we traveled, and we were all tight on cash, so instead of taking our dream vacation to Mykonos, we ended up spending two nights in the northern city of Thessaloniki. The first thing we learned was that, unlike in most of the tourist-friendly cities we visited, English speakers are rare in Thessaloniki. This was the first city in my five months of traveling where I could not communicate in any language. We couldn’t even read street signs or bus stop information because our map was in English and the signs were all written in Greek. The second lesson was that unlike buses in most cities, the buses in Thessaloniki will not stop to pick you up if they see you at the bus stop. Even trying to hail them like a cab from the sidewalk won’t help. After watching the locals, we learned that if you want to get on a bus, you have to walk into the street in front of it and wave to get it to stop for you. After we spent the first day at the Museum of Byzantine Culture and exploring the city, we set out the next day to find a beach. Armed only with the knowledge that we wanted to get somewhere southeast of the city, we got on a bus and set off. An hour and three buses later, we saw water, but had no idea where we were or where we should have been going. Ultimately, we made the decision to do as the locals do, and followed a group of teenagers in bathing suits off the bus. Luckily for us, they unwittingly led us to one of the most beautiful places I have been to in my life. We found ourselves on an almost-deserted beach with crystal clear water and a view of Thessaloniki and Mount Hortiatis across the bay. For lunch, we went to a tiny seafood restaurant on the water, where again, no one spoke English. After pointing to various things on the menu, we were served a delicious meal of feta cheese, tomato and
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onion salad, Kalamata olives, mussel stew, and giant shrimp fried in their shells with their eyes still attached. The best part was watching the Greek families around us pore over tables covered in traditional Greek seafood dishes. Thessaloniki was by far the most unplanned trip we took. We got off the plane at the airport with nothing except for our backpacks and the name of our hostel, but it ended up being one of my favorite experiences. I felt more immersed in the Greek culture and lifestyle than I did anywhere else in my travels, and my utter lack of expectations made every experience amazing.
photos by anne lewis and kathryn robinson
Opa!
A Greek Goes to Greece by marina bartzokis
I’m Greek. So I was obligated to go to Greece since birth, but my family just never found the time to go when I was little. Every time someone found out that I was Greek, they’d ask “Have you been?” and I’d sheepishly lower my head and reply, “No.” So finally, in 2005, we decided to make the trip. While we did visit Athens and the surrounding area, one of the most fun trips was to the island of Santorini, of which I’m sure many of you are familiar. Think blue-domed churches studded on rocky cliff sides. Our hotel, like most on the island, was carved into the actual cliffs. I’ll admit, though, that walking anywhere feels like flirting with death. Since the pathways are also carved into the cliffs, one missed step could cause you to fall on top of the hotel room beneath yours. On the plus side, opening the windows in your room reveals an uninterrupted view of beautiful turquoise waters and Santorini’s own active volcano. It may not look like your stereotypical volcano, but you can take a boat cruise over to it and walk up to the very top. Beware that in the hot, Santorini sun, the hike to the top can be a little arduous, but is well worth it. After, if you want to cool yourself off, you can hop back on the ship, and they’ll take you to a cove where you can swim. If the shock of the cold water is a little jarring, just swim over into a nearby natural hot spring to warm up. After that, you make a final stop at another spot on the island to ride a donkey uphill to a restaurant. The donkeys like to get particularly close to the edge of the walkways built into the cliffs, so if you’re afraid of heights, you might want to just walk up on your own. (On a side note, if you do take the donkey, make sure he’s an “experienced” one. My cousin and I got a couple of new recruits that, upon reaching the restaurant, decided to make a break
for it and head for the hills). While Santorini was by far the most beautiful place I’ve been to, what meant the most to me was visiting the village of Lia in the northwestern part of Greece, where my grandparents are from. For those of you Greek culture buffs out there, you might have heard of the book Eleni by Nicholas Gage. Nicholas Gage is my great-uncle, who wrote the book about his mother--my great-grandmother--Eleni Gatzoyiannis, who sacrificed her life while helping her family escape to America during the Greek Civil War (1946-1949). After reading the book, I desperately wanted to see the village. After our wonderful stay in Santorini, we jumped on a plane to Yiannina, the largest city close to the mountainous area of Epirus, where Lia is located. After a white-knuckled car ride on the perilous, winding dirt roads up the mountain (are you beginning to see a trend here?), we finally arrived at Eleni’s house. I saw the room where my grandmother, Olga, was born, the garden where they grew their vegetables, and the same mulberry tree in the front yard that my great-uncle had described in his book. While it’s definitely not a tourist spot, if you’re ever in Greece (which I hope someday you are!) and feel like taking a break from shopping, volcano climbing, and runaway donkeys, I suggest taking a trip to Lia. The kind people there are thrilled to show you around and tell you about the village’s history. If you want to see a different side of Greece--the kind not filled with traffic and map-wielding tourists--you might enjoy Lia. There’s nothing like watching the sunset behind the rolling hills of a place that, maybe for just a minute, looks like it’s been untouched since ancient times.
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Modern Greece Greece is a pretty amazing place and is quite different from the U.S. in many ways. For one, it has to be among the most undeveloped “developed” nations in the world. Laws often seem to be optional, and to a certain point it is a free-for-all, with people doing whatever they want. This is evident in the traffic laws (city streets often do not even have speed limits), the unenforced pedestrian laws, the liquor and tobacco license laws (basically none are required), and the fact that de jure you need building permits, but de facto you do not. The latter has led to the wonderful sprawl that is Athens. The city spreads as far as the eye can see in all directions, and a good majority of the buildings are fiveto ten-story apartment blocks, which house everything from apartments to doctors’ offices, to shoe stores, to cafes and restaurants. The city is very dense, with about 5.5 million people (about half the population of Greece) living within an area of approximately 150 square miles. From the highest point in the central city, Lykavitos hill, one can look in all directions and see this urban sprawl taking over the Plain of Attica. Athens has an intriguing mix of old and new. The Acropolis towers over the central city, yet close-by are protesters petitioning Parliament and police patrolling Exarchia (a radical neighborhood) trying to check for any would-be anarchists. For what is amongst the oldest continually inhabited areas in the world, it is amazing how much of the city is really not that old. In 1834, when it became the capital of Greece, Athens was little more than a provincial town of several thousand people. Since then, it has dealt with several massive waves of growth, due to pressure both inside and outside. After the 1922 Treaty of Lausanne, in which Greece and Turkey agreed on a populations exchange, several hundred thousand Muslims in Greece were forced to move to Turkey. In return, several million Greeks (many of whom were already war refugees) were forced to leave Anatolia. Thus, within a year, the population of Athens doubled, as many of these refugees ended up in the Greek capital. As one can imagine, Greeks not only appreciate their rich history, but great food as well. The Athens Central Market is a massive complex of food stands in the middle of the city, but there is also the Laiki, which is basically a farmers market that travels to every single neighborhood of the city on one day or another. In addition, there is the local butcher, bakaliko, and a produce man, amongst others, as well as a growing amount of “super” markets (though the name is deceiving… they tend to be rather small). Still, the Greeks like nothing more than going out to eat. From souvlaki stands, to tavernas, to upscale French and Italian restaurants, you are
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by charles vlahakis guaranteed to find all walks of life dining out. Greek cuisine includes delicious meats, most commonly pork, but also lamb, beef, and chicken. Seafood is also a big deal, codfish being the traditional meal of March 25th (Greek Independence Day) along with calamari, whole roasted tsipourres (porgies), tuna, and bass. Eggplant is also big in Greece and is the main component of mousaka. Soups range from the wonderous margharitsa (lamb gizzard soup), which is eaten on Easter, to avolegomo (chicken lemon), fasolada (white bean soup) and faki (lentils). Once the main meal is over, a dessert often follows. Common Greek sweets include baklava, loukoumades (fried honey puffs), galakdabouriko (like baklava, but with a custard instead of walnuts), melomarkarona (brown cookies soaked in a honey sauce), diples (rolled, crispy fried dough, coated with honey and cinnamon), fresh fruits, and ice cream. Despite the temptations of this amazing cuisine (and their smoking and drinking habits), the Greeks are on the whole a pretty fit population. This may be because they have to walk everywhere. When I lived in Kolonaki, a neighborhood built into the slope of Lykavitos hill, the trek to school was always an adventure of sorts. Up there it is so steep that the streets perpendicular to the slope of the hill are more like long staircases than roads. After climbing four staircases, five blocks of slopes, three blocks of flat terrain, crossing two large roads, walking four more blocks go around the Russian embassy, and dodging the trolley, voila! I was in school. Many people walked as much or more than myself, and then caught a bus to go somewhere else to work. On the whole, a traveler to Athens will be surprised by what he or she finds. It is not a glorified white marble city, nor is it a complete urban wasteland. Athens is, like many places, a complex city of layers. You must delve deeper to get beyond the graffiti strewn on concrete walls, and see not just the Acropolis through the guided tour, but also through the lens of somebody who lives in its shadow. Athens, like all of Greece, is both a product of its past and slave to it. The entire history of modern Greece has been a struggle to prove that modern Greeks are worthy of their ancestors. Only by understanding this concept can anybody fully understand why Athens, and the Greek state as a whole, is as it is. This modern city would be incomplete without its glorified past, its sprawling present, and its uncertain future.
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Year in review: greek politics
Throughout 2008 and 2009, Greece’s national economy has been crippled by the fiscal crisis. The deterioration of tourism as a revenue source, compounded with mounting debt, is leading to an economic catastrophe. Greece, as a member of the European Union, uses the euro; however, the economic crisis emphasizes Greece’s dire economic situation when compared to fellow European states. The euro masks the economic woes of Greece, along with those of several other European countries, allowing the economy to appear more viable than it actually is. The currency remains stable; however, there are problems regarding the viability of the bond market and interest rates. Economists and officials agree that Greece’s economy is in grave condition and that the financial system must be reassessed in the future.
by daphne kolios
December 2008
Riots wreak havoc throughout Greece following the shooting and subsequent death of 15-year-old Alexandros Grigoropoulos on December 6, 2008. Grigoropoulos is largely seen as a martyr for the anti-government movement, and his shooting only exacerbates the problems that have already been festering in Greece. Riots are not uncommon in Greece; however, the breadth and fervency of the December riots harken back to the era of the military junta in the 1970s. Many Greeks still harbor residual resentment towards the police force based upon the political upheaval of the past 30 years.
June 2009
The new Acropolis museum opens in Greece, amidst controversy between the Greek and British governments over granting the return of the Elgin Marbles to Greece. The Greek government has tried to achieve the return of the marbles for over 30 years; however, Great Britain has yet to grant their request. Many hope that the museum will serve as a bargaining tool in the sustained attempts to secure the return of the marbles, because Britain has formerly upheld that, even if the marbles were to be returned, Greece would not have an appropriate location for displaying them. Britain does propose the loan of the marbles to Greece for three months on the condition that Greece formally renounce any future claims on them. However, this proposition is rejected.
August 2009
Wildfires rage through Greece, marking an annual problem that many Greeks hold as a point of contention with the government. Greeks contend that the government inefficiently contains the spread of wildfires, thus causing costly and widespread damage. Greece’s hot climate and dry terrain combine to make prime conditions for fast-moving fires. However, the government’s lack of organization and preparedness for the fires often results in property destruction that could be avoided. Fourteen towns are affected by the 2009 fires, centered largely in the Athens area.
October 2009
Greeks vote against the continuation of the middle-conservative governmental regime led by Kostas Karamanlis of the New Democracy Party, in favor of the Socialist PASOK party. George Papandreou, the leader of the socialist party, advocates increased spending to combat the economic crisis. Many voters turn pro-Socialist in light of the rampant corruption that has come to define Karamanlis’s era. Karamanlis orders early elections in an attempt to appeal to the unrest of the Greek population. The corruption of the government under Karamanlis, compounded with the economic woes brought about by the past year, the unrest concerning the shooting of Grigoropoulos and subsequent riots, and the criticism that Karamanlis did not respond quickly enough to the wildfires burning through Greece all contribute to the overthrow of the New Democratic regime.
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Greece’s Second “Golden Age” by sarah solomon Crammed into a streetcar filled to capacity with beach-goers is my idea of a typical day in California. I never expected to encounter such a thriving and youthful population in the ancient capital of philosophy and western ideology. However, since the 2004 Olympic games, Athens has received a remarkable face-lift. It all began with the construction of a centralized subway system designed to accommodate the hundreds of thousands of tourists during the summer of ’04. During construction, teams of archaeologists were called in to carefully preserve and document the sedimentary layers of civilization that lie beneath the modern streets. They found thousands, even millions, of artifacts dating back to before the Roman Empire or the Greek city-states: whole vases stained with oil and lead plumbing. There were even intact graves. As this exploration continued, the Greek passion for preservation and cultural pride took over. Not only did the subway become a symbol of their hospitality and modernity, it also showed visitors what it means to be truly Greek. The engineers, architects and designers collaborated to create an efficient new piece of infrastructure for the city and a gorgeous museum. In an unprecedented style, stations like Syntagma (“Constitution”), which lies beneath the parliamentary building, and Akropoli house display cases filled with artifacts, and their walls are lined with glass to show off the buried history. Items that would traditionally be sequestered in world-renowned exhibits have been
left in public view, where those who prize them can take the time to stop and look. It’s a fitting tribute to the Greek philosophy that everything has a proper time and place. Another important symbol of Greek pride is the new Acropolis Museum, recently featured in National Geographic magazine. At the time of my trip to Athens, the building was still under construction, but its collection was already the subject of furious debate, and had been since well before the idea was even put on paper. At the center of the museum are the Elgin Marbles. The Marbles consist of Greek sculptures, metopes, friezes, and pediments, all removed from the Parthenon by a British noble during the early 1800s. Although Lord Elgin was given permission to remove the pieces, it was completed by the government of Greece at the time, which was still under Ottoman control. Today the ownership of these historic treasures is very controversial. The most valuable artifacts are on display at the British Museum in London, and for many years curators argued that the Greeks did not possess the proper facilities to display and preserve them. However, this is no longer true. The Acropolis Museum is perfectly equipped to house what many Greeks believe is rightfully theirs. In fact, private collectors and collections from around the world have returned smaller pieces of the Parthenon--and the two other sanctuaries on the Acropolis--in a salute to Greece’s efforts to unite its past and present. One of these initiatives is ARCHELON, the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece. In the late 1970s, two citizens noticed that the Greek beaches were a popular nesting ground for Mediterranean sea turtles, a fact of which the scientific community was previously unaware. Thus ARCHELON began. Its goal, as outlined by its website, is “to protect the sea turtles and their habitats in Greece through monitoring and research, developing and implementing management plans, habitat restoration, raising public awareness and rehabilitating sick and injured turtles.” Since its inception, ARCHELON has significantly helped the fragile and vital role of sea turtles in the Greek marine ecosystem. However, as Athens and the Greek government strive to modernize while still staying connected to their heritage, the project repeatedly encounters resistance. When I visited their Sea Turtle Rescue Center, just south of Athens in the district of Glyfada, the staff members and volunteers remarked that even as large, international companies like McDonalds and Vodafone campaign to protect the turtles, ARCHELON can be set back by the actions of a single local fisherman. And just as the islands of Greece are very different-some are major tourist destinations, while others are unknown, some are lushly vegetated, while others are rocky and arid--so too do the priorities of its populations vary. The plight of the sea turtles perfectly illustrates this dichotomy, one with which Greece will continue to struggle as it steps into a new, technologically-minded world.
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A New View of Athens by stacy entel
photo by eva parish
Unfazed by weaving motorcycles and stark mountains looming over Athens, our cab driver lights a cigarette and swears at his caller. Well, one of his callers. He has mastered the act of juggling two cell phones, but still he pauses to roll his eyes and glance down at his worry beads for affirmation. This is Greece—a land of contradictions and chaos, warm faces, and cold cities. The neighborhoods seeped with history are peopled by ancient matrons knitting away on balconies, while the twenty-somethings pulse to the beat of a latenight city. Here I sit, carefully sorting through my stories from this past fall, picking them out, like especially precious gems, from the bottom of a jewelry box. Athens feels far away from the rolling pastures and majestic Alps of vague European dreams. Flying over Athens’ airport, the landscape was more reminiscent of the Middle East than any Greek travel guide would ever willingly admit. Rough dirt and sand, fierce mountain ranges…this is a city that values tenacity. Wandering through a street-long farmers’ market, joyfully surrounded by a cacophony of bright vegetables and fresh fish, these are neighborhoods that have lived in. And yet, for much of my four months in Athens, I am tired. Tired of the smog, tired of the honking horns, tired of the piles of rubble, tired of the skinny cats, tired of the haze of cigarettes. Tired of the very grayness of Athens. There is no spontaneous beauty in this city. Nothing to catch your breath, make you clap your hands in delight. Greece never experienced the Renaissance, that sudden flowering of art and culture. Her accomplishments ended before the Common Era even celebrated its first millennium. Instead, the rubble of centuries has accumulated around ancient pillars, leaving them alone with the whispers of dead poets. To truly know Greece, you must take the time to explore outside the city. Peer into the dark recesses of a village’s Orthodox Church, where icons cover
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every scrap of wall and candles flicker through the dusty pews. Climb precariously out to a jutting rock in the deep turquoise ocean, and wade into marine paradise, your only companions two Greek lovers intertwined in the shade. See the most spectacular of sunsets. Battle through the fierce bushes and burrs of Corinth to find a cove as clear as sea glass. There are miles upon miles of olive-covered mountains, all demanding sternly, “Wake up! Look around, and know that you are small.” Visit Meteora, where monks paint fierce-eyed religious icons and scenes of demonic torture in monasteries perched precariously on the very tops of sheer peaks. And wander through Crete, where little cobbled paths and graceful buildings are complemented by traditional bouzouki music wafting from the surrounding cafés. In Santorini, ride to the rim of a caldera, climb through a volcanic crater, and swim in hot springs warmed by the sulphur of an active volcano. Tiny, mountainous islands jut out of the Mediterranean, shrouded in fog, and whisper of heroes and their lost ships. Mythology grew from these mountains, stirring the imagination of the poets just as the tendrils of fog caress the passing ships. Greece is a proud land, struggling to regain an economic foothold amidst issues of environmental degradation and political corruption. Last December, Athens became a war zone in the aftermath of a police shooting. Buildings lay in charred ruins, while storefronts had black holes where the glass used to be. Entire sections of Athens were destroyed. Rioters threw stones, water bottles, anything in reach, at the police, who responded in kind with clouds of tear gas. Modern Greece is continuing its painful transition into modernity, where hopefully the magic of its natural wonders will balance with the opportunities of the city. Balance and contradiction. Welcome to Greece.
When In Athens…
by carly machlis & shauna pierson
No matter where you decide to travel in Greece, you will more than likely find yourself in Athens for at least 24 hours. And with endless cultural, historical, and gastronomical options, Athens is a mecca for adventurous travelers. Follow our guide to make the most of your Athens experience!
Explore the Acropolis
History buffs, accomplished archaeologists, bustling tour groups, and even first-time travelers converge upon this famous monument for a glimpse into the splendor of the past. The Acropolis--the “city on a hill”--is a massive testament to the power of the ancient Greek civilization. Tourists make the climb to see the Parthenon, the vastly beautiful temple that once housed the famed statue of Athena. The rest of the Acropolis is also noteworthy; make sure to check out the Erechtheum, a temple distinguished by its five draped female statues, and the theater of Herod Atticus, a spacious amphitheater which holds concerts today. Once you’ve explored the Acropolis in all of its immense beauty and are back in the city, make sure to look up
Wander the streets of the Plaka
If you’re looking for quaint boulevards, open-air cafes, winding cobblestone walkways, and a myriad of shopping and eating options, head to the Plaka. The oldest neighborhood in Athens, the Plaka is a modern day artists’ colony that is replete with something for everyone. Make sure to pick up some authentic olive wood; this elegant and durable wood is often carved into bowls, cutlery, and unique jewelry. Or sample some of Athens’ finest olive oil soaps and exfoliants, traditional gold jewelry, and exquisite lace products. The best part about exploring the Plaka is getting lost--savor the sights, sounds, and smells of authentic Greece and don’t worry about staying on track!
Spend a night in Psiri
Once the sun starts to set, Psiri is the place to be if you are looking for an authentic and adventurous night in the Greek capital city. Music blares on every corner, and natives gather around local performers to sing along to their favorite songs. The food is rustic and the ouzo flows freely; it’s best to walk around and scope out that one little café that catches your eye. Don’t be fooled by the beggars and seemingly gritty appearance of Psiri--there are plenty of police on patrol at all hours to ensure your safety. Think of this part of town as the Athenian version of Manhattan’s East Village, and stay out late soaking it all in. And don’t forget to stop by Gelatomania for the best ice cream in Athens!
Learn to navigate the subway system
No matter where your Athenian adventures take you, be sure to find your way there on the subway. Although it may seem intimidating to navigate a foreign city independent of taxis and directions, we promise you will find this subway system extremely user-friendly. Even better, they have officials constantly policing the stations to make sure that no one is partaking in any sketchy activities--even eating! This is by far the cleanest and friendliest underground subway we have experienced in Southern Europe. And if that isn’t enough to convert you, consider the fact that each underground station is home to a unique collection of ancient Greek artifacts perfectly preserved in the walls! It’s like a mini history lesson every time you get off the train, and the satisfaction of a successful journey on the Athens subway can’t be beat.
Eat some traditional souvlaki streetside
Many people travel to Greece to sample the unparalleled selection of fresh fish; while we definitely recommend the sea bass and calamari on the islands, Athens is all about smoky and savory meat. Chicken, beef, lamb, and pork are all sensational in souvlaki, a popular dish throughout the city. Souvlaki--the “hamburger of Greece”--is a wining flavor combination, with sliced meat, fresh vegetables, and tzatziki (a cooling yogurt sauce) all served in a pita pocket. Enjoy a souvlaki from a street vendor along the boulevards of the Plaka, at a chic restaurant in Psiri, or at an authentic stand at the foot of the Acropolis. Don’t forget to sample some of Athens’ other notable gastronomic treats, including baklava (a dessert made with phyllo dough and honey), and loukoumathes (sweet fritters with honey, cinnamon, and nuts). photo by becca weinstein
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Apple Tea
by rachael brill
Walking down the cobblestone streets of old Istanbul, we can feel the brisk November air whirling past our glowing cheeks. As the call to worship sounds in melodic harmony from the surrounding mosques, we quicken our pace to find a warm reprieve from the cold. Street vendors’ voices echo through the alleyways as they shout out their best offers for their goods. They call to us, “Girls, where are you from?” and upon hearing our answer, they excitedly respond in near unison, “GO OBAMA!” with fists in the air and smiles spanning their darkened faces. We smile back at them, appreciating their good-hearted cheer, and blow into our hands and hide our faces in our scarves. Peering upwards I catch glimpses of pointy minarets against blue sky and domed mosque roofs rising up below them. I turn back to the bustling streets ahead, as we make our way to the Grand Bazaar. As we continue towards the market, we see an old man perched on a chair outside of his rug store. The vibrant reds and yellows of the carpets inside glimmer through the windows, bringing warmth to the cool Fall air. He sits with two other men, as they huddle together around a few teacups. A kettle warms over a nearby fire pit. I smell warm cider, and for a moment I pause with my friends to gaze at his hand-woven rugs and breathe in the crisp, sweet aroma. He calls us over with the wave of an arm, and we all hesitate for a moment. “Come my friends,” he beckons, “Please join us for apple tea.” Yet we remain guarded, and politely decline as we take in one last whiff of warm apple air. We pass by businessmen returning from work, and women draped in hijabs (Muslim headscarves) with toddling children in hand. We see fellow sightseers from all corners of the world. We observe more store owners congregating for pre-dinner tea. After a few blocks, we spot a jewelry store and duck inside to ogle at the shiny rings and gold bracelets. In signature Turkish style, the storeowner engages us in conversation, brimming with opinions about American youngsters, the impending U.S. presidential elections, and of course… jewelry. We admit to him that as broke college students, we cannot afford his merchandise, but he appears not to mind as he invites us to stay for a warm drink. We all look at each other in silent agreement, and plop down for our first taste of apple tea. Our numbed fingers thaw as we grasp the hot cups and sip slowly at the sweet beverage. We talk about Istanbul and he tells us about the intricacies of the city. After twenty minutes of conversation we excuse ourselves and thank him for the tea as he wishes us good luck on our journey. Emerging back onto the streets, our bodies warmed and our excitement over Turkish hospitality growing, we eagerly set off to the Bazaar. On our way, we receive about three more invitations to drink apple tea. With difficulty, we resist the temptation, remembering the mounting number of sights we have yet to see. Reflecting on these experiences, I truly believe it is in Turkish nature to welcome strangers with open arms. Through the simple gesture of offering us warm apple tea, I felt more at home in an ancient city, thousands of miles from home, than in many places in my own country. Now whenever I enjoy a tasty apple treat, I happily think of the cool Istanbul air and the warm Turkish people.
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For the adventurous, for the explorers, for the truly “offbeat travelers”, lies Cappadokya in central Turkey. This land, which has been inhabited by countless civilizations and is enveloped by the most spectacular caves, valleys and underground cities, promises travelers an exhilarating holiday. Driving from the airport, you will see layers of rock formations unfold in front of you. These have materialized from years of weathering, erosion, and volcanic eruptions and make up some of the world’s most breathtaking natural landscapes that resemble something out of a fairy tale. Most hotels have been carved out of former caves that have been modified to become modern day bedrooms. Not surprisingly, the city thrives on its tourism, so the locals and hotel staff are generally hospitable and helpful when it comes to ensuring that you have an enjoyable trip. Cappadokya has plenty to offer tourists. You can be exploring an underground city that once served as a refuge for the Hittite civilization or flying high in a hot air balloon and seeing the panoramic view unfold beneath you. The sky is literally your limit! Art is taken to a different level here. The open-air museums are made up of clusters of rock formations that form both valleys. Pigeon Valley and the Fairy Chimneys of Zelbe and Dervant Valley are just some of these museums. Goreme Valley takes visitors into the actual residences of the ancient civilians. The bedrooms, churches, monasteries, kitchens with dining areas, and storage spaces were once occupied by people who lived primitive lifestyles. From iconoclas-
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tic art to the biblical scenes depicted on the walls, the frescoes have been preserved all these years and are now showcased in the museum. You can see the transformation of art styles as you walk through these caves. For those who are keen to know more than the brief information posted outside each cave, it is sensible to go with a local guide that the hotel will most likely offer, as these guides often give a more profound insight into the culture and history of the place. The undergound cities at Kaimakli and Derin Kuyu served similar shelter purposes to the Hittite people. Both sites have been fully preserved and are accessible to tourists. Again, you may want to hire a guide if you are looking to understand the minute details of the site and to get a better sense of the innovation and splendor of these ancient civilizations. A two to three day trip might be more than enough for those who are ready to be on the move from one site to the next. Though the city has a lot to offer, the major sites can be tackled in a short period of time. For those who want to sit back and relax, do not miss the traditional Dervish dance, which is phenomenal. The dance is often performed in the caves of Cappadokya, which are illuminated at night to create a truly sensational performance. But don’t be prepared to recline for the entirety of your trip! You’ll be at the edge of your seat gasping in awe upon seeing the layers of the underground cities and admiring the timeless beauty of the ancient monuments. A hot air balloon ride might burn a big hole in your pocket, but the experience is worth it. Ideally, it should be left for the last day, because seeing everything you’ve covered, from the Fairy chimneys to the Pigeon Valley, and sailing above the sleeping city at dusk, is the perfect culmination of your trip. Cappadokya may not be your regular resort, but it is a truly unique and memorable destination!
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photos by rachael brill
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[FOCUS] Kelsey Bell Traveler: How and when did you get into photography? KB: I originally took a photo class in high school and loved it, but I was so busy that it fell to the wayside. I didn’t think much about it until I took time off from Tufts and spent some time in Costa Rica. The only classes I have ever taken in photography were in Costa Rica, where I was taught by this surfer/Rastafarian/skateboard-and-fashion photographer. I think I fell in love first with him, and then with photography, but my feelings for the latter proved more enduring. Traveler: Did you take a class at Tufts or develop this interest on your own? KB: I have yet to take a class at Tufts, but I was fortunate enough to participate in one of the Institute for Global Leadership’s Exposure workshops. I traveled to Uganda with a former Christian Science Monitor reporter and a National Geographic photographer, and was instructed by them while I was in the country. Traveler: Where are your favorite places to photograph? KB: Recently, I’ve gotten really into shooting live music. It’s my favorite way to watch a concert. Traveler: What do you look for when you’re taking pictures--do you generally prefer to photograph people or more scenic landscapes? KB: I almost always prefer shooting people. I appreciate how beautiful nature can be, but I am much more fascinated by individual faces. I’ve never been quite sure why I want to photograph something, or rather, of the reasoning behind what catches my eye, but it’s when I shoot instinctively that I get the best shots. Traveler: What has been your best experience so far? KB: Uganda was an altogether incredible experience because it was so mentally challenging. I was getting material for a story on forgiveness in Northern Uganda after the 20+ year civil war there, and working with some of the now-grown child soldiers who had been forced to fight. I returned to campus and had a hard time understanding all the stress people had about school and trivial things, and I don’t think I’ve ever really been able to focus on academics since. It’s a bit of an issue.
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Traveler: Have people ever refused to let you take a photograph of them? KB: Oh, all the time. One of my favorite pictures I have is of someone flipping me off in Uganda because I took a picture of them out a car window, which is always a cowardly thing to do. I think people are always a bit apprehensive in front of a camera but if you’re there to get a shot you have to step out of your comfort zone in terms of making other people feel uncomfortable. Essentially, photography is using people to get an image. But, in the best-case scenario, photography can be used to shed light on issues of people being used and abused in worse ways, and to hopefully change this. Traveler: What advice would you give to someone interested in travel photography? KB: I would say first start shooting your surroundings. You get better at photography the more you train your eye by looking at other people’s work and just going out and shooting. Traveler: What is your major, and what are your plans for after college? KB: I am an American studies major, which has allowed me to pursue many different interests because it is so interdisciplinary. I’m trying to finish the major by the end of this spring, but will have to take some more credits to actually graduate because I took time off from school. Right now, I want to finish up those courses in Buenos Aires after living there this summer, and eventually move there for a bit with one of my friends from Tufts. I think it’s great when people have jobs lined up for themselves, but I’m personally more excited by the possibility of what I can do with my life at a point when I’m young and there’s not much tying me down to one place.
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please recycle