2010 - Boston's Sister Cities by Tufts Traveler

Boston

& Her Sister Cities

Table of Contents

Letter From the Editors 6

Traveler Staff

Mass Music: Boston’s Record Stores

Andy Sayler

I Love That Dirty Water

Rachael Brill

Mt. Auburn Cemetery

Denali Hussin

Introducing the Sister Cities

Zach Alberts

Kyoto

Alexander Michaelson

Strasbourg

Meredith Klein

Barcelona

Max Marder

Hangzhou

Daniel Yoon

Padua

Julia Bordin

Melbourne

Alexander Michaelson

Taipei

Lauren Lee

FOCUS

Annie Wermiel

Staff Favorites

Editors-in-Chief • Denali Hussin • Anna Simon • Photo Editor • Eva Parish • Staff Editors • Rachael Brill • Jenna Liang • Laina Rosebrock • Alyssa Wohl • Layout Editors • Denali Hussin • Anna Simon • Alyssa Wohl • Contributing Writers • Zach Alberts • Rachael Brill • Julia Bordin • Denali Hussin • Meredith Klein • Lauren Lee • Max Marder • Alexander Michaelson •Andy Sayler • Daniel Yoon • Contributing Photographers • Rachael Brill • Ally Gimbel • Denali Hussin • Lauren Lee • Jenna Liang • Meredith Klein • Alexander Michaelson • Andy Sayler • Anna Simon • Annie Wermiel • Alyssa Wohl • Daniel Yoon •

Inside and cover photos by Jenna Liang

So who knew that Boston had seven sister cities? (Well, someone did, presumably. ) But it was pretty exciting for us to realize that even in our Boston issue we could add an international flavor. Ahead, you will find adventures down Mass Ave, new (and old) places to explore, fun on the Charles, and even an intimate look at the Traveler Staff ’s personal Boston Favorites (what a treat!) But in addition to that, we’ll take you beyond the Hub to Boston’s “family” abroad: from the cathedrals of Strasbourg to the cherry blossoms of Kyoto. In this issue we hoped to provide things to do and places to explore when all you can afford is a T pass (or a volcano’s making overseas flight impossible), but also give you a sense of Boston’s sisters across the ocean. Whether just down the road, or across the pond, happy travels! Your new editors, Anna and Denali

Boston

Photos by Jenna Liang

The Best of Boston: Staff Favorites

Anna’s Favorite: Dave’s Fresh Pasta 81 Holland Street, Davis Square, Somerville Dave’s Fresh Pasta, arguably my favorite Boston eatery, is located just down the road from Tufts in Davis Square. Finding Dave’s has been a blessing (every single item in their store is great) and a curse (I go through withdrawal over the summer when I’m not in Boston). I started going to Dave’s for their great sandwich selection; I’ve sampled over half the menu, but tend to order favorites like the Roasted Veggie Goat (cheese), Caprese, or Prosciutto and Fig. Tip: call ahead and place your order when you’re 15 minutes away to avoid the line. It should come as no surprise that Dave’s has great fresh pasta, and the staff is happy to suggest pairings for their homemade ravioli and sauces. Add to that a great selection of local gourmet groceries, and I promise your first trip to Dave’s won’t be your last.

Ally’s Favorite: Middlesex Fells Off U.S. Route 93 or Mass. Route 28 If you’re looking for a more natural way to unwind from finals this year, check out the Middlesex Fells. This 2,500-acre forest reserve spans across Medford, Winchester, Melrose and Malden and offers miles of trail. Visitors can stroll, run or bike through the beautiful forest paths, relax along the shores of Bellevue Pond or even attempt a challenging uphill hike to catch some breathtaking views of Boston. Check out their website, www.fells.org for walks, talks and other events going on at the Fells this summer.

Denali’s Favorite: True Grounds 717 Broadway, Ball Square, Somerville About half of Tufts knows and loves this excellent coffee shop, the other half has never heard of it. I’m pretty sure this distinction is regional, it being located in the “Sound Bites Zone” over in Ball Square. The ambience is great: wonderful, local art displays, lots of seating options, and outdoor tables in nice weather. Their coffee, tea, and other beverage options are great. Breakfast sandwiches and soups are fab. And you MUST try their spinach and feta croissant. Whether you need a chill spot to do homework or a nice place to get a nibble when Sound Bites is packed, this is the place to go.

Alyssa’s Favorite: Chocolate Buffet 250 Franklin Street, Boston Getting off at South Station, I walked to the Langham hotel to meet my parents for what I thought would be a nice, Valentine’s day dinner (and yes, I do know I was a third-wheel on my parent’s Valentine’s date). But with the promise of the chocolate bar looming overhead, I knew I had to go. And the chocolate bar did not disappoint. However, after learning that, in fact, the chocolate bar I recieved was not the full chocolate bar but rather a fourth of the usually amount of chocolate, I knew I had to go back. Every Saturday, at Café Fleuri in the Langham Hotel in Boston, a magical event takes place. The weekly, all-you-can-eat chocolate buffets, includes everything you could ever imagine (and even some things you can’t) dipped in chocolate. While it is rather steep--$38 per person--the buffet lasts 4 hours, during which you can stay, relax, read, do homework, and eat all the chocolate you can stuff your face with. Chocolate pizzas, fresh-made ice creams, cakes, truffles and tortes are just some of the items they offer. Reservations are offered every saturday from September to June, at 11:00 AM, 11:30 AM, 1:00 PM and 1:30 PM. Make sure to call the week before to make reservations. 7

Jenna’s Favorite: Charles River From a photographer’s perspective, one of the best places to go for a leisurely walk in Boston is by the Charles River. From the Charles T-stop, you can walk all the way along the river to Prudential Center. Along the way, the Charles River offers a spectacular view of Boston. During the fall, the fiery red leaves are the perfect subject to shoot. When the sun comes out during the warmer seasons, turn your cameras on children on tricycles, wet canines emerging from the water and romantic couples rollerblading. Occasionally, you might find a painter crafting their masterpiece willing to let you capture a portrait of them at work. Otherwise, join the rest of Boston under the sun by the riverside. Photo by Ally Gimbel

Eva’s Favorite: Charles/MGH View Rachael’s Favorite: Spectacle Island Boston Harbor Islands Hoards of enthusiastic Boston tourists frequent Faneuil Hall or walk the Freedom trail, but few think to hop on a ferry to one of the Boston Harbor Islands. Spectacle Island, in particular, offers enticing views and sandy beaches that remain relatively undiscovered. On lazy summer days in Boston, I enjoy sailing to the coast of Spectacle, anchoring, and swimming to shore. Once on Spectacle, you can hike on the nature trails, pick wild blueberries, fly a kite on the island’s hill, take a kayaking lesson, buy ice cream at the snack shack, read about the history of the island in the visitor’s center, or just lounge on the beach.

Red Line, The T My favorite spot in Boston is not so much a destination as a place to pass through on your way to one. This is it: the view out the window of a red line train when it crosses the river around the Charles/MGH stop. There’s nothing like emerging from the underground to be presented with a glittering river dotted with sailboats and sculls, with the bright mash of city buildings spread along the horizon. And there are sailboats. Did I mention the sailboats? I really like sailboats.

Photo by Rachael Brill

Mass Music: Boston’s Record Stores By Andy Sayler

Once upon a time, before the rise of the Great Apple Nation, before Pandora and Genius and YouTube, there lived in a small gray cave on the side of a small green hill a little store. And in this store were shelves and racks, littered with numerous square boxes of all sizes and colors. Each of these boxes held something very unique; each held, you see, a collocation of songs—a musical record. And for these records, the store was much valued. Travelers would journey from near and far to the little store in the small gray cave on the side of the small green hill and spend hours searching through the boxes until (by chance or sheer determination) they stumbled upon one that caught their fancy. This record would be purchased and briskly whisked away to return home with the traveler. And this is how it was for the record store, day in and day out. Well, much has changed over the years, and the record store has seen the rise (and in some cases, fall) of many challengers to its album dealing domain. And yet the record store has soldered on. And since this is Boston, a city renowned for its green hills and grey caves, there are a number of record stores worthy of a visit from the Tufts traveler. ~ Our journey begins (as these journeys so often do) on Mass Ave in Porter Square. If we leave Porter walking along Mass Ave toward Harvard, we will soon encounter on the right side of the street Stereo Jack’s, the first stop on our journey. Stereo Jack’s is a small record store dating back to the mid 80’s. It sports a very healthy collection of used CDs (for the commoner), LPs (for the refined), and cassettes (I don’t know who these are for). The store specializes in jazz, blues, and R&B. The staff are guaranteed to have better recommendations than Amazon. Leaving Stereo Jack’s we continue down Mass Ave. Our next several stops will be in Harvard Square: home of Club Passim (where Bob Dylan got his start) and the ruins of the east coast socialist movement. There are also a number of hills with caves containing fantastic record stores. Our first stop in Harvard will be Planet Records, located across from Staples on JFK St. Planet Records is a superb little store carrying mainly new and used vinyl and CDs. Genre specialties include rock, jazz, classical, and folk. The collection is small but wide and always proves fun to browse. An important note for the serious explorer: Planet Records maintains and distributes 10

(free of charge) the “Record and CD Stores in Cambridge and Boston” guide, an excellent up-todate pamphlet in the spirit of this article. Check it out! Harvard is also home to In Your Ear. When you walk into In your Ear, its hard to tell whether it’s a record store or a human maze. The store is filled with racks, piles, and sculptures of vinyl records and CDs. Genre specialties are focused on Rock/Pop with others present. This store is definitely an indie experience, but be prepared to browse because you’re more likely to get lost in the stacks than to walk in and find what you want alphabetically. Our final stop in Harvard Square is the closest installment of the illustrious Newbury Comics. Located on the top floor of the Garage, Newbury Comics has the best selection of new vinyl and CDs around. The store certainly has an indie slant and sells a lot more than just music, but is well worth a stop for anyone looking for albums released in the previous ten years. The Garage is also home to Audio Lab, a refined but expensive HiFi store (hey, you have to keep the riff-raff out...). This is the closest store to Tufts for anyone looking to purchase real headphones, speakers, amps, turntables, needles, or other stereo components. The store will let you demo any equipment you’re interested in and at the very least gives you a chance to try-before-you-buy the item you want for 25% less online. To continue our record store journey, keep heading down Mass Ave out of Harvard toward Centra Square. The next stop is Cheapo Records, located right at home in the center of Central Square. Cheapo has a large vinyl selection and a smaller CD collection. This is a used store that specializes in oldies, particularly rock and R&B. The final stop may be worth a hop on the T or a scenic walk past MIT across the Charles River on Mass Ave and then over toward Kenmore Square and Commonwealth Ave. Nuggets is located just outside Kenmore Square. The store was the first one I visited in Boston when I was considering attending BU. While I didn’t end up at BU, the store is still worth checking out. It features a very large used Rock CD and LP collection, and provides, if nothing else, an excuse to see your friends at BU. ~ There are a number of other excellent record stores in Boston (as well as alternate locations of some of the previously mentioned stores), but you’ll have to check them out yourself. Remember that LPs provide a better view of the album art than iTunes, and that I’ve discovered more new bands through a record store’s “Now Playing” rack than through Pandora. So get out there and explore. Happy hunting!

Locations Stereo Jack’s - 1686 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge Planet Records - 54-B JFK St., Cambridge In Your Ear - 72 Mount Auburn Street, Cambridge Newbury Comics - 36 JFK Street, Cambridge (In The Garage) Audio Lab - 36 JFK St. Cambridge Cheapo Records - 538 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge Nuggets - 486 Common Wealth Ave, Boston 11

I Love That Dirty Water By Rachael Brill

Many tourists soak in the Boston sights on foot, choosing to hit the bricks of the Freedom Trail, window shop on Newbury Street, or stroll lazily through the blooming Public Garden. As in any city though, honking taxis, car exhaust, and fellow tourists inevitably surround all of these sights. This is why the best views of Boston are not from the roads downtown, but from the water. As the rock band “The Standells” once put it, “I love that dirty water, oh Boston, you’re my home.” The dirty water they are speaking of is the Charles River, which separates Cambridge from Boston. Don’t worry about the pollution of the Charles though—you’ll forget all about it once you are on a sailboat, gazing at Beacon Hill at sunset, with the golden dome of the State House and the river water glistening in the summer rays. I have had the fortune of seeing many different Boston views from the water, being an avid sailor and an enthusiastic proponent of any marine transportation. My introduction to Boston by water was on a duck tour, during which you board an amphibious vehicle to enjoy both the wet and dry wonders of the city. First, your water-bound chariot will take you to landmarks such as the Prudential Tower and the Christian Science Church, before you plunge into the Charles to go underneath the Longfellow Bridge. You then travel all the way out to Boston Harbor where more historical gems await, such as the U.S.S. Constitution. Still, the duck tour provided only a brief taste of Boston’s dirty water (not literally, thank goodness), and I craved more. In college, I expanded my Boston water repertoire by joining the sailing team. We race frequently on the Charles River, where the Hancock Tower stands defiantly in the distance, its win-

dows catching the sun’s rays, and the giant Citgo sign turns on at sunset to reflect across the river. Once the sun disappears behind the horizon, the sparkling city lights illuminate the water. Each year, the Tufts sailors tow boats down the Charles into Boston Harbor, a voyage that takes you under the Leonard Zakim bridge, through locks that separate the various waterways, and into the open waters of the harbor. From Boston Harbor, you can enjoy the city from an entirely new angle. The North End speckles the shores of the inner harbor, and you can see planes taking off from the Logan runways of East Boston. Past the inner harbor are the Boston Harbor Islands, including Lovells Island and Spectacle Island. It is surprising how few people take advantage of these places, considering the wealth of historical sights and recreational activities they have to offer. Lovells Island is home to the historic bunkers of Fort Standish, multiple campgrounds, and a beachfront area. Spectacle offers nature trails, a concessions shop, a quaint beach with kayaks, and a visitor center that showcases the evolution of the island. While visiting Boston by land is vital to the tourist experience, it is also important to soak in the city from all angles. You have not truly seen Boston until you hop aboard a ferry, the sea spray misting your face, or cruise down the Charles River in a quacking, floating truck. Without that dirty water, Boston just wouldn’t feel like home.

by Denali Hussin Don’t call me morbid when I say that Mount Auburn Cemetery is one of the most beautiful destinations in Cambridge. This is not a noir fascination; I have no desire to ruminate on the sepulchers or contemplate the veil between worlds. First of all, Mount Auburn is more of a stunning arboretum than anything else. It was the first of the “landscaped cemetery” movement of the nineteenth century, when the focus became less “Memento mori” (“remember you will die”) and more a floral and arboreal celebration of life. As www.mountauburn.org puts it, “Burying and commemorating the dead was best done in a tranquil and beautiful natural setting at a short distance from the city center.” Second, it took me years (I first visited as a child with my parents) for the fact that this was a cemetery to really sink in . “Oh, there are dead people here? I must have missed them while I was climbing this tree.” “The grave of Oliver Wendell Holmes? Sorry, I was busy looking at the turtles in this pond.”

Photos by Andy Sayler 14

fully labeled) trees are a spectacle that even the hills of Vermont have trouble matching. The best view comes from a tower, which you can find through hopeful ambling, in the center of the cemetery’s grounds. On a small hill is the stone tower, once the highest vantage point in Boston, from whose top you can see the Boston skyline, the river, and even, if you look in the right direction, a familiar smokestack and the grey shape of Goddard Chapel. Mount Auburn Cemetery is perfect for a picnic or a walk, with endless valleys and hills and pathways to explore. If you’re so inclined, there are tombs of historical interest (Isabella Stewart Gardner, of art collection fame, for one, and Julia Ward Howe, writer of “The Battle Hymn of the Republic” for another), but as for me, I prefer the turtles. Families wander there often, and you’ll see young children climbing the stone Sphinx that commemorates the abolition of slavery, and playing pony on the gravestones. This is not exactly a graveyard that evokes thoughts of death. The nicest way to get to Mount Auburn is by walking along the river from Harvard Square. You’ll even pass (though it’s well hidden by the side of the parkway and is very subtle) a stone slab that proclaims the site where Leif Erikson, Viking explorer, first set up a homestead on American soil. Whether or not this is true, it’s a cool thought. Once you’ve exhausted wandering and exploring the 175 acres of hills, paths, gardens and glens of Mount Auburn (and believe me, you could spend days), you can mosey further up the road past Mount Auburn and find a variety of Armenian markets where you can get lahmajouns (like thin crust pizza), tahini, and boeregs (stuffed pies.) If contemplating the brevity of life is your cup of tea, you can feel free to try and do so at Mount Auburn. But honestly, it’s much more fun to enjoy being alive there. Say hi to the turtles for me.

Things to Do in Boston When You’re Dead (But That Are Much More Fun When You’re Alive): Mount Auburn Cemetery You enter the cemetery through a gate bedecked with what look like tiny, wrought-iron Snitches. On your left there’s a chapel that also serves as a mini-museum, explaining the design and creation of Mount Auburn. To your right, the first graves in the cemetery are of two good friends of our university: Charles Tufts and Silvannus Packard. “Patrons of Tufts College,” their tombstones read. More excitingly, there’s a tremendous maroon-leafed beech tree. I highly recommend that, if you have the inclination (and why wouldn’t you?), you hoist yourself up onto its park bench-sized branches and relax. Or else see how far up you can climb. It’s really an exercise in reclaiming childhood, I find. If you go in spring or summer, Mount Auburn is alive with flowers of all kinds. It will blow your mind. The many ponds and pools and fountains will be teeming with basking painted turtles. On the shore is a white pavilion erected in memory of Mary Baker Eddy, founder of the Christian Scientist Church. In fall, the many wonderful (and thought15

Boston and the Sister Cities Program

Kyoto sister city since 1959

By Zach Alberts

Strasbourg sister city since 1960 Barcelona sister city since 1980 Hangzhou sister city since 1982

What do the cities of Kyoto (Japan), Strasbourg (France), Melbourne (Australia) and Taipei (Tokyo) have in common? At first glance, perhaps not much, but deeper inspection reveals a connection which satisfies the Bostonian need for everything to revolve around us. Each of these cities, all ethnically and culturally distinct from our beloved “Beantown,” are part of the Sister Cities Program. Founded in 1956 after President Dwight Eisenhower made an international plea for a transnational exchange of culture that would foster international goodwill, the program has created a Sister City agreement between Boston and eight other countries around the globe (seven of which are included here). When Boston and another city enter into such an agreement, they forge a pact to exchange education, ideas, technology, and, most importantly, people. The four pillars of the Sister City program are Friendship, Trade, Understanding and Cooperation. As a so-called “melting pot” of people from countries across the globe, Boston believes that the exchange of ideas and citizens further cultivates cross-cultural awareness and understanding. Furthermore, the City of Boston cherishes the Sister Cities program for its ability to expand its own economic interests. Not only does it promote tourism, but it also connects Boston’s powerhouse business community with a myriad of others around the world. Over the last fifty years, Boston has received a number of benefits from her sister cities. Some of the more impressive ones have been the donation of a “Japan House” to the Boston Children’s Museum by the city of Kyoto, the establishment of a foreign exchange program with Strasbourg, and an eight day festival in Boston hosted by Padua. We at Tufts place a huge emphasis on international awareness and action. With that in mind, come immerse yourself in the wonders that Boston and her sister cities have to offer.

Padua sister city since 1983 Melbourne sister city since 1985 Taipei sister city since 1996 16

Boston photo by Jenna Liang,, sister city photos credited on respective pages

Kyoto Protocol: Return to the Cultural Capitol

or friends at a shrine or temple, so vendors crowd them all, stocked with good luck charms, fortunes, and of course souvenirs and snacks, to offer to guests who visit during the New Year time. At such an early hour, however, none of these stalls were open, and all but the earliest-rising shopkeepers were just waking, their wares shuttered. The last sun of the year was rising, and the foxes watched omnisciently. The Fushimi station on the Keihan line from Osaka to Kyoto is exactly one local stop from Nintendo’s worldwide headquarters, but this particular morning was far away from that world. My first visit had been during a tourist off-season, and in the early half-light I felt that I was again experiencing a special time, another of Kyoto’s infinite secrets. Like the tiny nooks and miniscule shrines that dot the city’s fashionable shopping district, old and new ideas mixed in such a place where even tourist traps offer a refreshing absence of kitsch. The kitsune at Fushimi-Inari remind travelers with their wise eyes that we bring our own selves and create our own experiences wherever we go, learning in life to be our own interpreters of unique moments. We live our lives in search of treasures, but wonder is always there, waiting to be recognized.

By Alexander Michaelson

The Fox God: kitsune-sama Fortunately, it was drizzling and damp the first time I visited Fushimi-Inari Shrine. It was the kind of day that felt like the sun might well have always been so immaterial, the fog being exactly the sort of natural wonder that sparks imagination and chisels impressions on the mind. Even in mid-afternoon, the sky seemed to recline itself in silent expectance, bearing memories of past winters in mid-December anticipation. It was dream-weather, and it was my first day in Kyoto. My affinity for things vulpine and my vocation to explore had compelled me before all else in my first hour in Kyoto to pay a visit to the shrine. Honoring Inari, one of the most ubiquitous of kami-sama, traditional Japanese Shinto deities, Fushimi Inari Taisha commands a vital spot as the head shrine of over 30,000 Inari shrines in Japan, and a prominent listing in Kyoto guidebooks with its distinctively abundant reddish torii gates. The shrine itself was nothing short of magical, as the dank sky contrasted harmoniously with the Crayola brightness of the sacred gates, and the kitsune themselves sat watchfully as ever, messengers to Inari for harvests and business and other such affairs. In the mythology of Japan, representations and objects are not idols to gods; rather, they are gods themselves; and so knowing that, I could not help but feel the foxes’ gaze all the more acutely. First impressions are very important in Japanese culture, and on the occasion of my first visit to the so-known Cultural Capitol of Japan I was not to be disappointed. I indulged my delighted eyes in the walk from the Keihan train platform to the shrine; the street was lined with all sorts of shops. Souvenirs, local specialty foods, meals in tiny restaurants, refreshments, whatever a traveler might desire—I was happily surrounded. As I darted from tasting samples of matcha mochi (green tea paste-filled soft rice mochi) and yatsuhashi (cinnamon biscuits) to examining foxy trinkets, I felt privileged for the chance to but scratch the surface of the mist over the treasures that enticed my senses.

Cherry Blossom Season: sakura no kisetsu

New Year’s Eve: ōmisoka I returned to Fushimi-Inari three weeks later, this time in the early morning with my brother. We had to catch a bullet train to Tokyo before noon, but I was determined to show him my favorite shrine. Despite our lack of sleep, he and I pulled ourselves up out of our futons while our parents slept in the traditional-Japanese-style hotel room we were all sharing, and we hustled into the chill clear morning, picking up hot drinks at one of the omnipresent vending machines and making our way through Teramachi and Kawaramachi in downtown Kyoto, over the Kamogawa bridge to Gion and the Keihan line. At seven o’clock on the last morning of the year, the scene was very different from my first trip. One of the biggest holidays in Japan is the New Year, and it is traditionally celebrated with family 18

Strasbourg

Views from inside and atop the cathedral merit the crowds of tourists that gather. At 12:30 daily, the astronomical clock inside the cathedral awes crowds with the parade of the Apostles, during which life-size figures of Jesus and the twelve Apostles turn about the top of the clock. Facing the clock is a vertical representation of the Last Judgment on the “Pillar of Angels.” A mere three hundred-step journey up to the cathedral platform provides a fantastic panoramic view of Strasbourg—well worth the three euros and the workout.

by Meredith Klein

Dubbed a “giant and delicate marvel” by Victor Hugo, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg (Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Strasbourg) towers over the landscape of this Alsatian town and is visible throughout the region. This momentous accomplishment of Gothic architecture is surrounded by shops and restaurants, with buildings and pedestrian streets leading right up to the cathedral entrance. This proximity of daily life to the church provides a historical perspective that is often lost in modern efforts to display monuments.

The region of Alsace has for centuries been passed between German and French possession, resulting in a unique bicultural identity. A strong Germanic architectural influence is seen throughout the city with the iconic maisons à colombages, timber-framed houses, all along the banks of the River Ill. Passing through locks and channels, the river was used in the past to generate power for the mills and tanneries located on the historic main island, la Grande Ile (the Grand Island) which, in 1988, was classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO (the first time such a classification was given to an entire city). Bridges connect the various islands of Strasbourg between the Ill and the Rhine rivers. 20

In addition to its cultural offerings, Strasbourg also boasts the title of legislative and democratic capital of the European Union, as the seat of the Council of Europe and the European Parliament. The Louise Weiss building of the European Parliament sits at the meeting of the Ill River and the MarneRhine Canal. Inspired by Roman amphitheaters, the building consists of a 60m tower surrounded by another glass building that faces the river. Representatives from the European Union gather in Strasbourg at least twelve times per year, carrying out other business in Luxembourg City or Brussels.

Botellón-ing in Barca

them back to Morocco. The night ended with salsa dancing on the beach as the sun rose, which would explain the sand I found on Sunday morning. Some other Americans asked why we were dancing on the beach at such a strange time. I answered, “Why not?” The girls answered with an elaborate story about how the four of us were in a dance troupe, and even gave the two guys with backwards-fitted Yankee hats specific directions to our “recital” the next evening at “7 PM, sharp!” We did both nothing and everything, and had an experience so beautiful in its randomness that all of us were high on life for days afterwards. It’s only through nights like this one, experiences like this one, semesters like this one that we can truly grow and learn about ourselves. Being in Barcelona is the ultimate introspective experience—all of your constants—family, friends, Tufts—are gone and you’re left with nothing but yourself and a gorgeous opportunity that can lead to ecstasy or depression, and oftentimes both. Without new surroundings, friends, experiences, or cultural outlooks, it only follows that our personalities and value systems stagnate. Without some new stimuli to spark debate, controversy, and change within ourselves, there is nothing to add to our pre-existing schemas about how the world works and what each of us, individually, wants to get out of our lives. Some people describe studying abroad as a dive off of a cliff, a leap of faith, even a mild hallucinogenic trip. For me, the experience begins and ends with the city I’m in. It’s Barcelona. It’s the modernism of Antoni Gaudi. It’s the beach. It’s the mountains overlooking the skyline. It’s chocolate and churros at six in the morning. It’s the shops, cafés and restaurants of Las Ramblas. It’s three bottles of wine and a box of sangria.

By Max Marder Photos by Jenna Liang

God bless Tufts University and Medford, Massachusetts, but Saturday nights in Barcelona are a bit different than what I’d become accustomed to in my first five semesters as a Jumbo. Sure, I’ve been to a kickin’ house party or two on College Ave or Bromfield Road, but as fun as nights like that are, you don’t wake up the next day with sand from the beach in your bed. Most things in Spain take place later than in America: meals, parties, and people’s punctuality to start. Maybe it was fate, but on one of these particular Spanish Saturday nights, I headed out early (10:45 pm). A friend of mine told me that a boy she knows bought “a little bit of wine” and that they were going to botellón around Grácia, a more authentic Barcelona neighborhood further from the touristy centers and beach-life. After the mini-adventure, they’d decide which club or bar they would settle at. Botellón-ing is what it sounds like, drinking in public from the bottle— and the plan sounded groovy to me. Let’s call it a new cultural experience. When I rendezvoused with my three friends, I discovered that a little bit of wine meant three bottles and a box (yes, a box) of sangria. This could be my semi-alcoholic, irrational, collegiate self-justification, but how a different country drinks shows a lot about its culture. Our beverages for the evening were a perfect cross section of the Spanish philosophy: classy yet laid-back, polite but moderately rebellious, heavy drinking with measured self-control. The night progressed both naturally and unpredictably, like water from the Amazon River flowing into only one of its dozens of tributaries. The four of us never settled at a club or bar as we had previously intended, and instead moved around a lot, making temporary Spanish friends for the evening and making quick decisions in the moment. We met Spaniards and Americans, Italians and Mexicans, Swedes and Argentineans, in plazas and small bars around the barrio. We smoked hookah in a bar owned by Pakistanis. We haggled for beer with a group of Moroccans at four in the morning—successfully negotiating the price down to five euros for seven beers before having to rescue the girls we were with once our Moroccan “businessmen” friends insisted that the girls vacation with 22

Lei-Feng Ta In The Evening Glow

Hangzhou by Daniel Yoon

A gentle and refreshing autumn breeze brushes past me as I pedal my bicycle along the shores of the legendary West Lake in Hangzhou this October afternoon. The wind ruffles the weeping willows to my left and right and serenely conducts the waves on the water just beyond both sides. I relax my hold on the handlebars and let the bicycle coast down the walkway. Autumn has arrived late in southern China. The stifling heat of the summer months has given way to a gloriously comfortable several days. Situated on a tributary of the Yangtze River a ninety-minute train ride west of Shanghai, the city of Hangzhou is virtually unknown to the casual western tourist. It often loses out to the likes of Beijing’s Great Wall of China and the Terra Cotta Warriors of Xi’an. Yet, just like her American sister Boston, Hangzhou boasts a treasure trove of cultural and natural encounters that makes it an absolute must-visit during any holiday in China. Hangzhou was the capital city of the southern Song dynasty between 1127 and 1276. In its zenith, Marco Polo spent the better part of three years in this city and returned to the West with his spaghetti-gunpowder experiments that eventually made history. The locals are certainly well aware of this history. And they are vastly proud of it, just as Bostonians are of their own city. The West Lake undeniably remains Hangzhou’s most popular attraction. It also usually figures in the top ten of every visitor’s guide to China. And I cannot help but agree with them once more as I ride this afternoon down the length of the Sudi – a delightful five-kilometer pedestrian causeway that runs down the middle of the lake in a north-to-south direction. Surrounded by water and weeping willows on both sides of the narrow strip of gardens and footpaths, I find myself stopping and going, stopping and going, all in an attempt to absorb the serenity around me and capture the moment on camera as best I can. I recall from my previous years at Tufts the misgivings that many harbored toward Tufts-inChina’s primary pitch line, “The most beautiful place in all of China”. Yours truly included. And I have learned to take it back during my time here so far. No other site in China parallels the sheer exquisiteness and loveliness that is the West Lake. Mark my words: I have been to nearly every tourist destination that the country has to offer. I said this once and I’ll say it again – Hangzhou is an absolute must-see during any visit to China – if only for one afternoon walking this stretch of lakefront causeway. The city is beautiful. Halfway down the Su Causeway there is a tidy flotilla of Chinese-style canoes tied to some of the willows, their masters waiting patiently for tourists to take to the middle of the lake. I have taken a ride on one of these canoes twice during my time here so far – once in the sizzling heat of August and another just recently in September, when the lake was engulfed in foggy mist and visibility measured just one or two dozen meters. One remarkable feature of the West Lake is that it is beautiful in any weather. It is equally gorgeous – unforgettably mystical – in the rain and haze of mid-winter as it is pleasant when the flowers are booming and young couples, families, senior citizens, and students all come for an afternoon picnic or stroll in the early spring. It offers something for every season and under all conditions. 24

Turning off the Su Causeway and continuing along the southern coast of the West Lake in a west-to-east direction leads to the foot of that mysterious tower that has been visible since I began my journey nearly six kilometers ago this afternoon. The newly rebuilt Lei-Feng Pagoda overlooks the West Lake and offers commanding vistas of the lake from several hundred meters high. The pagoda was originally built in AD 975 but collapsed in 1924 after years of mismanagement and warrelated devastation; it re-opened in 2002 after several laborious years of planning and construction. The new Lei-Feng Pagoda models the original splendor of the historic Buddhist temple that used to stand there, along with the added features of air conditioning and state-of-the-art elevators that run to the peak of the pagoda. Admission may be somewhat expensive – 50 yen or approximately $7 per ticket (a fortune by Chinese standards) – but the pagoda is worth at least one visit, most optimally sometime in the early evening, when beautiful streaks of twilight-red and orange engulf the lake and the skyline and day gives way to night. I decide to park my bicycle and pay for my third trip up the tower in just as many months. Across the lake on the northeastern shores approximately one or two dozen kilometers away from the tower stands the glorious skyline of modern-day Hangzhou. Indeed, Hangzhou represents a magnificently well-planned fusion of the modern, natural, and historic, unlike many other places in China, where fervent industrialization and rapid modernization continue to threaten the sustainability of the country’s cultural artifacts and historic sites. Continuing eastward from Lei-Feng Pagoda and then northward most noticeably reveals the disadvantages of bicycling around the lake. The many lakefront promenades (walking paths alongside the lake proper) are only available to foot-pedestrians. My first attempt to bicycle along these trails results in the boot from on-duty security guards and police officers (who, now that I consider it, are standing at nearly every nook and cranny that I can possibly enter). A second attempt results no better. The patrol officer this time comes chasing me with a sledge hammer. So I am forced off onto Nanshan Street, a busy thoroughfare that runs parallel to the lake but does not afford much of a clear view because of buildings between the street and the lake. Oftentimes, it is my experience that the guards usually will not do much except blow a whistle if you ride your bicycle where they do not permit you to so as long as you continue pedaling away from the source of the whistle and avoid looking back. I succeed on my third attempt. Still, it is my conclusion that walking the circumference of the lake is the best way of exploring and enjoying it.

Hubin Street and Lake-Side Esplanades Halfway up along the eastern coast of the West Lake, where Nanshan Street meets Hubin Street, I encounter perhaps the liveliest segment of our journey – a several-kilometer stretch of (once again) pedestrian-only esplanades dotted by quaint up-end stores featuring western-style cafes and modern shopping plazas. It is bursting with people today. Literally, bursting. Street comedians and magicians perform every few hundred meters, drawing crowds that dangerously abut the bicycle path along which I am riding. The dozen square blocks in this area contain, on my previous count, four Starbucks, a Pizza Hut, a Papa John’s and other “expensive” eateries unaffordable to most Chinese. This is a stretch along the West Lake geared unmistakably toward tourists – and it shows by the number of foreigners and non-local Chinese that are here today. Following the coast of the West Lake as it rounds into its northern edge features another (albeit smaller) causeway – again lined on both sides by water and weeping willows. I complete my journey at the end of this stretch as the sun sets over the mountains directly in front of me all along the western edge of the lake. A classic Chinese proverb, well-known by locals and non-locals alike in the country, claims, “The skies have Heaven, and the earth has Hangzhou”. I can imagine why.

Padua

By Julia Bordin

Still, it wasn’t love at first sight. I found myself initially frustrated with many aspects of Italian life. Naturally, the language barrier alone turned the most simple tasks into daunting ones. On one of my first days here I went to buy a cell phone. Amidst the chaos of getting twenty something foreign students cell phones at a tiny little shop I happened to leave my receipt at the store. In theory, the task at hand was simple enough: walk in, ask for my receipt, walk out. Approaching the man behind the counter, I merely asked for my “riceta”. And there it was. That blank stare. How could I have messed this up? Easily. I asked the man at the phone shop for my recipe back. I also struggled with the general nuances of daily life. In Padua, stores and supermarkets work on a completely arbitrary schedule and markets closed at random times. After a little Italian influence, my first impressions that “If they only stayed open they would make more money” have changed. If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. I myself now enjoy the pausa pranzo (literally meaning lunch break, a siesta-type-thing) as much as any Italian. I realized that it’s all about the lifestyle. Businesses would actually not make more money by staying open, because the city stops, and everyone is at home enjoying a three course lunch (or taking a nap in attempts to digest one). When a newly arrived foreigner asked me how long the fruit stand would stay open, I was glad to answer “Well, it depends on the weather, or on the day of the week, on anything really.” I now love Padua for what it is. A picturesque town with medieval buildings and modern people with a refreshing take on life.

I vaguely remembered it from high school English as the city where Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew” takes place. It was always just that little city close to Venice. Yet, when I moved to Padua to study here for the semester, the city revealed itself to be so much more. As one of Italy’s oldest cities, Padua is charming, young and sophisticated. After a couple of months of living here, I have to constantly remind myself to take notice of the cobblestone streets and ancient churches which have become simple, almost mundane, details of my daily life. I try to imagine what Padua was like back in 1222 when it was already a bustling city, with lively markets on every piazza. During my lectures, I try to imagine what the university was like in the 1400’s, or how I could be standing in the very same spot as Galileo did when he taught here during the 17th century. I remind myself to pay attention to historical details, because I’m usually just appreciating what made me fall in love with this city in the first place: its relaxed and youthful atmosphere. Today, well-dressed college students still bombard the city and can be seen throughout the many piazzas enjoying a café or the local drink of choice, the spritz (a traditional orange concoction of prosecco and either Aperol or Compari, and always complete with both an orange slice and an olive, just because). 26

The Central Business District (downtown) seen from across the Yarra River.

Melbourne Yes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true, kangaroos are quite plentiful and quite edible.

By Alexander Michaelson Melbourne is sometimes considered to be the cultural capitol of Australia. The graffiti supports this claim.

Federation Square in the Central Business District. 28

The Best Dumplings in the World. Really. By Lauren Lee

Din Tai Fung No. 194, Xinyi Road Sec. 2, Da-an District, Taipei City 10651, Taiwan (R.O.C.) (intersection of Yunkang St.) TEL: 886-2-2321-8928 Mon-Fri: 10:00-21:00 Weekends & Public Holidays: 09:00-21:00 30

Surely, the endless queue of double-decker buses stuffed to the gills with tourists from all continents continuously unloading their camera-laden, sneaker-wearing, sunglassed cargo into the depths of a seemingly unassuming restaurant must indicate something. But more than just a tourist trap, Din Tai Fung (DTF) is a gastronomical haven for locals and visitors alike. It is the restaurant, that upon every visit home I absolutely must visit (preferably right off a grueling 24 hours intransit). The tourists frequenting this plain, four-story restaurant are endless at all hours of the day, even at non-traditional meal-times. Even at 3:30 PM, the tour buses are still pulling up and belching forth tourists. With such a swarm of customers (and no reservations), one would imagine it would be impossible to find a table. But the hostesses are efficient and, unless you arrive at absolute peak hours on weekends, you will generally be seated within 15 minutes, ample time to observe the masters at work pleating and shaping dumplings through the glass wall of their kitchen. Once inside, the brusque waitresses (in running shoes, who look and act like they have been working at DTF for the past 30 years) deposit you at your table with a pot of tea and menus to mull over before rushing off. Never fear, the menu comes in both Chinese and English, and in spite of the Don’t-Mess-With-Me demeanor of the waitresses, if you have questions they will not hesitate to patiently go through your options with you and describe each dish in detail. Of course, you will order the soup dumplings (xiao long bao). Containing exactly 18 pleats curled neatly into a seamless tiny circle, every diminutive steamed dumpling is a study in textbook uniformity. The “skin”, or rather, dumpling wrapper of these parcels of perfection is not grotesquely thick and rubbery like the wrappers of their cousins found in American Chinatowns, but rather have a thin and delicate consistency, just sturdy enough to hold the filling and glorious soup within. And the soup! The measure by which all soup dumplings should be judged is nothing short of mind-blowing. The spoonful or so of soup that spills into your mouth upon chewing is pure concentrated porcine flavor without any of the oiliness or greasiness normally associated with big-pork flavor (like with bacon). Amid the praises for the soup and skin of the dumpling, the actual pork and vegetable filling should not be forgotten. This filling adds another level of flavor complexity and introduces a textural contrasting with the silky, steamed dumpling wrapper. Aside from the excellent soup dumplings, the rest of Din Tai Fung’s menu is nothing to scoff at. Classic Chinese/Taiwanese dishes such as Egg and Shrimp Fried Rice, Chicken Soup, and Beef Noodles are executed flawlessly. And while it may seem cliché to eat fried rice in an Asian country, DTF’s fried rice is not the scorched mess of indistinguishable bits of organic matter that you are accustomed from grimy Chinese takeout joints. The fried rice is refreshingly pale in color (no metric ton of soy sauce to mask ingredients or flavors) and allows the natural fragrance of the super-fresh shrimp and vegetables that shine in a delightfully simple dish. If only all fried rice could be this good. The unadorned chicken soup is also another one of my favorites from DTF. Arriving in a small ceramic urn, the seemingly small bowl of chicken soup is pure, unadulterated chicken essence in the best of ways. The chicken within is tender and simply falls off bone and the rich, butter-colored broth is so intensely chickeny that all chicken soups pale in comparison. Needless to say, I am unabashedly and absolutely in love with Din Tai Fung, and you will be too after you visit. The prices are very reasonable, the décor is clean and well-kept, and, of course, the food is to die for. Even the swarms of obnoxious tourists do not bring this restaurant down in my eyes, the food is simply that good. So visit Taiwan, and eat at Din Tai Fung. I promise, you will not be disappointed.

How and when did you get into photography? Through most of middle school I went to photography summer camp at an artists’ community right next to my house called Glen Echo Park. I learned black and white photography there and stuck with it through high school, but I think when I came to college I began to think of photography as something more than just a class or activity. I do it in my spare time and it really became my main passion. Why does photography interest you (as opposed to other artistic mediums such as painting, sculpting, etc.)? Part of why I love photography is about being able to translate what I see around me into something that I can share with others. My biggest frustration with drawing and painting (admittedly the only other art forms I have really attempted) is that I never feel like what I create looks enough like what I see or what I am trying to capture.

[focus]

ANNIE WERMIEL

Do your prefer to photograph people, landscapes, or both? A few years ago I would have said “landscapes only”. I actually used to stand around waiting for people to walk out of my way before I would take the photo. Looking back on that now, I can see that I was intimated by people and unsure of how to approach them and incorporate them into my photographs. My answer now is “both” but I think that the majority of my favorite photographs still lack people. It’s something I am consciously working on. Where are your favorite places to photograph? I like to shoot with what I consider “natural framing.” I seem to always be looking for shapes and lines and I want to make it all fit perfectly into my viewfinder before I shoot, so I think I am drawn towards interesting architecture or even less structured things that still come together into new shapes. This might contribute to why I find it difficult to photograph people. They don’t tend to fit into structural constraints. But I wouldn’t want them to. 32

What do you think makes the best pictures? This is most impossible question you could ask a photographer, or any artist, because there are so many great photographs that have no single characteristic in common. I am usually drawn to photos with a lot of contrast in them--either in the actual lights and darks or in the way the weight of the content is spread out through the image. In a more general sense, I think the best pictures are the ones that force me to look twice because once is not enough to understand the entire image. What advice do you have for someone just beginning to explore photography? I definitely suggest taking some kind of photo class, just so you can get a feel for the technical aspects of photography. But make sure you don’t get into the “this is just for school” mentality--take it outside of the classroom! The best thing you can do is to shoot, a lot, and review your work after. You’ll learn the most from trying different things and discovering what subject matter you like to photograph. What are your plans for after college? I am a little hesitant to enter the world of freelance photography because I don’t want to lose my love for photography and have it become a grueling job, but I know that I definitely want to work with images in some capacity.

tufts.traveler.magazine@gmail.com ase.tufts.edu/traveler please recycle