La poule Français!
Review – The French Hen at Vast.bank By Michael P. Taubman In this next episode, our virtual travel experience with friends through our taste buds led us to a new, old place. The French Hen for over 40 years has been in the core of Tulsa’s fine dining cuisine. Restauranteur Terry Turner first opened around 1979, later sold to Dick Clark (father of chef Richard Clark) in 2001, before coming to rest in the talented hands of Kathy Bondy, the current owner since 2011. Most know this restaurant by the longstanding location of The French Hen & Wine Bistro at 71st & Yale in the Lighthouse Shopping Center. However, you go try the new location of The French Hen in the Vast.bank building at 3rd & Archer. Strolling at night past the glass enclosed dining establishment, the warm lights and the rich design of the room draws you into the restaurant. The room provided ample distancing from other patrons, with reduced seating capacity, which, as of the time of writing this, may one day be a thing of the past and return to full capacity. We joined our friends for dinner, seated in a booth across from the bar. The French Hen’s cocktail menu listed about ten different concoctions, which all looked tasty. My wife elected to start off with dessert, ordering the Chocolate Martini, while I, being more oriented to bourbon, dove into their Old Fashioned. The Old Fashioned, while a simple recipe, gets mangled by some bartenders who confuse their muddling and mixing; however, the French Hen’s Old Fashioned did not suffer this problem. The first sip was as consistently tasteful as the next one. One of our companions ordered from their beer selection, while the other chose to test the wine. They offer wine selections by both the bottle and the glass. Their list goes beyond my limited knowledge of wines, but our companion, who has a more expansive palate for wine than I, remarked on the selections and availability on their menu. However, the delivery of the drinks, considering we were seated
30 Tulsa Lawyer
at a booth directly across from the bar, met with some delays. Our drinks reached the table at different times instead of being served together at once, with the Chocolate Martini arriving first, followed by the Old Fashioned, the beer and then the wine. This seemed uncharacteristic of a precise, fine dining experience when all drinks were ordered at the same time on a night that did not seem busy. My dining companions disagreed with my suggestion of Escargot for the appetizer… c’est la vie, so I succumbed to the group decision to order the Shrimp, Scallop and Crab Cheesecake. Being overruled was the right call, this dish was magnifique! The crisp, salty flavor of the onion rings that accompany the seafood cheesecake with the drizzle of balsamic reduction over them gave this dish wonderful complexity. Also, we enjoyed an order of the Fried Oysters, with the creamed spinach and Pernod sauce, which made a nice, shareable companion appetizer. Few restaurants in Tulsa include Osso Bucco on their menu, which makes it a treat to find. The French Hen’s Osso Bucco Buccatini presented over a bed of pasta, soaking in the braising broth, and the meat pulled from the bone with the most delicate of touch. Another at our table ordered the Roasted Atlantic Salmon served with grilled pears and a seafood cream, and this did not disappoint either from