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Hello Readers, and welcome to our Iceland Travel Supplement. This magazine supplement is the first of several in our new ‘Amazing Destinations’ series. In each edition of this series we will focus on an individual 4WD Touring destination, providing a variety of useful information on the destination, how to get there, and some interesting routes or tracks for you to enjoy when you finally get there. Iceland is a large country, though it doesn’t seem quite as large as it actually is when looking at a world map, in fact, it is the second-largest island in Europe after the UK (Ireland is the third-largest).

year offers something different, in Iceland, for example, you can see the Northern Lights in wintertime, the midnight sun in summertime, and it is only possible to explore most of the highlands and interior in the summer months, as the mountain are impassible in winter due to flooding, snow and ice.

The TURAS team enjoyed a trip touring the Icelandic highlands a while back, and in this supplement we share some of our own experiences here. Also included is some information and tips for camping and for driving in Iceland, a look at the climate and weather and at Icelandic Culture and history. We also With a population of just over take a look at some amazing 360,000 people, it is also a winter tyres from Nokian Tyres, very sparsely populated counsuitable for driving in extremetry, with most of its inhabitants ly deep snow. Emil Grimsson living in the capital Reykjavík, of Icelandic company Arctic and most of the remainder livTrucks shares his experience ing in coastal towns. Iceland is of working and driving in exoften referred to as the Land of treme weather conditions and Fire and Ice due to its very acexplains some things to keep tive geothermal landscape and in mind when driving in deep its often snowy winter and icy snow. All this and lots more, we highlands. It is also the land of hope you enjoy this, the first the midnight sun where in sum- edition in the TURAS ‘Awesome mer the days never end and it Destinations’ series. never gets dark. Every time of Photo:Nicolas Genoud - Geko Expeditions

The TURAS team

EDITORIAL TEAM

Mark O’Toole Russ Ryan CONTRIBUTORS

Nicolas Genoud Paul Frith Trish Melody Alison Scanlon Marie Frith

Russ Mark

DESIGN TEAM

Mark O’Toole Russ Ryan Marie Frith

Paul

PUBLISHED BY

TURAS Camping & 4WD Adventures Ltd.

Trish

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#1.ICELAND Visiting Iceland Getting There

Icelandic Culture

Exploring An Alien World

6 36

Camping In Iceland

Climate & Weather

contents.

Driving In Iceland

74 Vehicle Preparation

110

Arctic Trucks & Nokian Tyres

102

Driving in Deep SnowICELAND magaziNE SUPPLEMENT

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

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The Smyril Lines Ferry, the Norrona, Links Iceland and the Faroes to Europe via Hirtshals in Denmark

f you plan to drive your own 4WD to Iceland you will need to take a trip on the M/S Norrona a modern ferry operated by Faroese company Smyril Line, that sails weekly from Hirtshals in Denmark to Iceland and the Faroe Islands. Between June and August, the ferry ride takes 2 days, leaving Hirtshals in Denmark on Tuesday mornings and arriving in Seyðisfjörður on Thursday mornings. Between September and May, the ferry ride to Iceland takes a little longer than 3 days. The Norröna departs Saturday afternoon from Hirtshals, is on the sea the entire Sunday, and stops for 6 hours in Tórshavn on the Faroe Islands on Monday morning. If you are interested in spending a few days on the Faroe Islands on either the way to or from Iceland, it is possible to book a trip with a longer stopover. It continues to sail towards Iceland around noon and reaches Seyðisfjörður in East Iceland on Tuesday morning. The M/S Noronna, originally launched in 2002 was modernised in 2021 and currently has a capacity of 800 vehicles and has 366 cabins, which allows for the transportation of up to 1482 passengers. This modern ferry is very luxurious and facilities include a cafeteria, buffet, and

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The Faroe Islands is a self-governing archipelago, part of the Kingdom of Denmark. It comprises 18 rocky, volcanic islands

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gourmet restaurant, as well as a café and bar, and the days at sea can be spent in the ship’s cinema, swimming pool, fitness facilities or on the deck enjoying some northern sunlight, an unobstructed view of the horizon and perhaps also a whale or two. The Norrona arrives at the port of Seyðisfjörður, on the east coast of Iceland where approximately two hours after arrival, having unloaded and passed through custom controls you will be ready to explore Seyðisfjörður, and then venture onward into the beautiful and

otherworldly terrain of Iceland. If you don’t necessarily want to travel with your vehicle there is also the possibility of shipping it to Iceland via Smyril Line Cargo. Smyril Line Cargo has routes to Iceland from the Faroes, Denmark, Scotland, the Netherlands and Russia and you can ship your vehicle and fly into Iceland to collect it at one of the ports.

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

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TTENTION all Overlanders, Outdoor enthusiasts, and Adventurers - we have some big news - after years of development, a new awesome, all-terrain tyre from Nokian Tyres called the OUTPOST AT has just entered the market.

This awesome new All-Terrain ticks all the boxes and also looks the business. The new Outpost AT provides on- and offroad drivers with versatile, durable driving in all conditions. Its aggressive tread is forged to help SUVs, crossovers and pickups navigate off-road chal-

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with the three-peak mountain snowflake, the tire’s adaptable rubber compound offers a comfortable, confident ride on any surface and in any weather, courtesy of the company that invented winter tires.

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There are over 200 waterfalls in Iceland, many of them are the most visited in the world.

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

celand an Island country on the northern fringes of Europe is frequently described as ‘the land of fire and ice’. Recent archaeological discoveries show that Iceland was inhabited by its first settlers believed to be Irish monks around 800 AD, who were shortly overrun 100 years later by the Vikings who then claimed this land. Its vast geologically active landscape dotted with volcanoes, geysers, hot springs and fumaroles with vast areas of its interior landscape shrouded in enormous glaciers offers a unique four-wheel driving experience. As a result of millions of years of volcanic activity shaping this Island, the land is now a four wheel drivers and photographers paradise. For drivers of 4WD vehicles Iceland contains an extensive network of rough mountain tracks through desolate and yet stunningly beautiful interior that will definitely keep you on the edge of your seat. We visited Iceland a few years ago and found that the excitement on a trip to Iceland really starts when you commence boarding the ferry and see all of the well kitted out 4WD vehicles that have travelled from all over Europe to explore this unique landscape. After a quick stop off at the Faroe Islands and a very comfortable journey on the modern and wellequipped ferry ‘M/V Norrona’ we finally approached Iceland, the fjords loomed

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nearer, as we passed the raw terrain of the shoreline, steep rocky slopes descending towards the shoreline. Having disembarked the Ferry we filled up our Jerry cans and vehicles with diesel as fuel stations are sparse in the interior of Iceland. Driving out of Seyðisfjörður and towards the southern ring road, we hadn’t travelled a kilometre when we felt like we had entered another universe, the craggy alien landscape unfolding before us could have been the surface of another planet. Low clouds hung over the rugged mountains, all exposed rock and very little foliage. There is so much to see in Iceland that there is no way you could do it all in a single trip, unless you are lucky enough to be able to spend a couple of months travelling there. We won’t even attempt to cover everything, but read on for some of the things we found to be the highlights of our visit to Iceland.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is continually filled with small Icebergs that calf from an in-

land glacier. We arrived at the lagoon just as the light was beginning to fade, that said it was 2am before the light finally disappeared. It was awesome, huge boulders of Ice floating serenely towards the sea, and every once in a while there would be a great creaking noise and then a crash and splash as one of the giant icebergs rotated in the water after becoming imbalanced having lost mass from the melting ice exposed to the skies on the surface of the water. The lagoon has served as a location for four Hollywood movies: A View to a Kill, Die Another Day, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and Batman Begins.

Fjadrargljufur Canyon Fjaðrárgljúfur is a magnificent and massive canyon, about 100 meters deep and about two kilometres long. The canyon has sheer walls, and is somewhat serpentine and narrow. The bedrock in Fjaðrárgljúfur is mostly palagonite from cold periods of the Ice Age and is thought to be about two million years old. Most people choose to walk along a walking path up on the canyon’s edge while si-

Diamond beach near Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

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Fumerole at Námafjall

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

multaneously enjoying the view above the canyon. It is believed that Fjaðrárgljúfur formed at the end of the last Ice Age, about nine thousand years ago. When the glacier retreated, a lake formed in the valley behind a hard resistant rock. The run-off from the lake flowed to where Fjaðrárgljúfur is today.

Silfra Scuba Diving between the continents - Silfra is located northeast of Reykjavik, in Thingvellir National Park, we took road no. 1 heading north out of Reykjavík. We arrived at our destination after about 30 minutes. Silfra is generally considered to be one of the most unique dive sites in the world, for a couple of reasons, first of all the gorge is still being formed and

widened by continental drift as the Eurasian and American tectonic plates are slowly moving apart at an average rate of two centimetres a year and these two continental plates meet right at Silfra, it is possible to wander the gorge and to take a dive down between the two continents as they slowly move apart. The water is so clear that the visibility during dives exceeds 120 metres and is limited only by line of sight.

The Golden Circle Geysir The Geysir site contains two large geysers and a number of mudpots is a popular day trip from Reykjavik ... During the time when we when we visited the Geysir spout itself was steaming but inactive, but

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ICELAND IS REGULARLY USED AS A LOCATION FOR SCI-FI FILMS & TV SERIES ‘Strokkur’ Geysir’s little brother was erupting every few minutes, it was a very impressive phenomenon. By this time bus loads of crowds from Reykjavik had arrived, and Strokkur was completely encircled by the snapping shutters of dozens of tourist cameras. Strokkur typically erupts every 6–10 minutes. Its usual height is 15–20 metres , although it can sometimes erupt up to 40 metres high. Leaving Geysir via route 35 we drove for 10 minutes before arriving at Gullfoss.

The Golden Circle Gulfoss Gullfoss is one of the most popular attractions in Iceland, and given its relative proximity to Reykjavik, along with Geysir and Thingvellir it forms ‘the Golden Circle’ a popular day tour from the city. The river Hvítá flows south over the falls, and cascades down two steps, into the 2,5 km long canyon below. This was breathtaking, we stood close to the falls for a while being rejuvenated by its spray, the noise and the power of the water was just thrilling.

Photos: GekoExpeditions.com

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The Northern Lights

Háifoss We then drove from Gulfoss to Háifoss one of the highest waterfalls in Iceland. Though these two waterfalls are physically only 25 km apart the drive-by road between them is nearly 100km. Háifoss was also beautiful, the water falling down into a long green canyon that would not have been out of place in one of the Lord

of the Rings movies, this was another majestic view, again we could follow the river falling down the huge drop and see it disappearing into the distant horizon. From Háifoss we would drive to Mývatn via the Sprengisandur track, a leg which would take us right into the centre of Iceland, through the highlands, where we would drive and camp between the two glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull. You can read a bit

Diving at Silfra

Fjadrargljufur Canyon

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was used during training for the Apollo space program to prepare astronauts for the lunar missions. You can also see why the latest Hollywood science fiction movie ‘’Oblivion was filmed here.The inteNámafjall rior of Askja is mostly filled by a lake called Öskjuvatn Námafjall is a geothermal which fills much of the calarea south of Krafla it condera created during an eruptains an expanse of hot tion in 1875. Its surface lies springs called Hveraröndor about 50 m below the level Hverir here there are lots of of the main crater floor and fumaroles, mud pools and mud pots continually venting covers about 12 km². boiling and bubbling away. The area also contains ‘Víti’, The alien fumaroles spewa smaller explosion crater on ing gases into the sky were a weird and wonderful sight, the north east shore of Öskthey smelled strongly of sul- juvatn, this crater is approximately 150 metres diameter. phur and it is highly recommended not to get too close It contains a geothermal lake of mineral-rich, sulphurous, or inhale these gases which opaque, warm blue water, (it can be toxic. is generally recommended not to swim in these craters Askja because Carbon dioxide can accumulate on top of the waAskja is a stratovolcano situter, making bathers pass out ated in a remote part of the and drown. Naturally this central highlands of Iceland. didn’t put us off and now we The name Askja refers to a can say that we had a nice complex of nested calderas warm bath in a volcano. within the surrounding Dyngjufjöll mountains, which rise to 1,510 m. The region is only accessible for a few months of the year. This area more about the Sprengisandur track and other mountain tracks in the article on Driving in Iceland elsewhere in this publication.

Askja Stratovolcano

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Nokian Rockproof Nokian Rockproof offers extreme durability for professional driving and off-road enthusiasts. The Nokian Rockproof is a fearless performer at quarries, forests and mining areas. With extreme cut resistance – more working hours. The new Nokian Rockproof Hybrid mining compound provides the tyre with excellent resistance even in rough offroad conditions. Better durability. Stone ejectors prevent sharp stones from attaching to the tyre’s tread surface and penetrating the tyre structure. Durability and protection. The sidewall compound includes extremely durable aramid staple fibre. The fibre makes the tyre more resistant to impacts and cuts that could otherwise easily damage it

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E T

xploring Iceland’s Culture and Traditions cinemas and museums. of andstores, Given the historyheofculture the Landy the places we have explored in Iceland offers a combination of intriguing landIceland long knew Icelanders are proudwould of their it, I think deep down weisalways that the vehicle hopescapes from rugged coastlines, glaciers, and hot heritage andenjoying Icelandicthe very interfully keep goingand for as long as weViking were able to keep springsKnown to geysers, volcanoes, and lava deserts. language and take great care to great outdoors. esting. Truth be known we were just a bit too attached to Eleven percent ofpreserve the country istraditions. covered inModglatheir for its literary it to let it go. In the future, we will no doubt embrace newer 4WD cial ice and is surrounded by water. The landtois ernthat Icelandic technology, but heritage with the which knowledge the 90remains has hadclose a makeplateau mountain peaks, and ice fields, with began in with the the Old spoken in the over and the very thought of being able toNorse take it on future trips a coastline marked by fjords, which areAge deep inlets carved by Viking scholars 12th century Icelandic without having to worrytradiabout it too much isand verymany comforting. glaciers. It’s no wonder that much Iceland’s culture holiday and trational arts also include weavthatofstudy Old English We learned a huge amount completing this project and for those ditions revolve aroundwood enjoy outdoor activities likeof swimming in Iceland because the ing, silversmithing, of you who followedand our progressin you will have noticed thatsimit was hot springs, skiing, horseback riding, and of course–looking up carving. The Reykjavík area hasbut ilarity of modern toas not all about adding new parts equally enjoyed Icelandic salvaging to enjoy the spectacular aurora borealis—the Northern lights! English. several a Old much asprofessional we could ontheaters, the vehicle. We were delighted to have had Iceland also offers aan rich literature tradition of poetry and sasymphony orchestra, opera the opportunity to have worked with some of the best in gas to enjoy cold winter nights. Much of the power and heat in and many art galleries, bookthis country is generated naturally—90% of Icelandic houses are

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Icelandic society and culture have a high degree of gender equality, with many women in leadership positions in government and business. Women retain their names after marriage, since Icelanders generally do not use surnames but patronyms or (in certain cases) matronyms. Say your parents were Helga Stefansdottir and Olaf Jonsson. Those names would stay the same when the two get married. If Helga and Olaf had a son and named him Gunnar, his last name would be “Olafsson” because his father’s name was Olaf. If the couple also has a daughter, then her last name would be Olafsdottir. Iceland uses the suffix dóttir for a girl, and -son for a boy. Iceland offers wide variety of traditional cuisine. Þorramatur (food of the þorri) is the Icelandic national food. Nowadays þorramatur is mostly eaten during the ancient Nordic month of þorri, in January and February, as a tribute to old culture. Þorramatur consists of many different types of food. These are mostly offal dishes like hrútspungar (pickled ram’s testicles), putrefied shark, singed sheep heads, singed sheep head jam, black pudding, liver sausage (similar to Scottish haggis) and dried fish (often cod or haddock).

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Much of the cuisine centres on Iceland’s fishing industry. Traditional dishes include gravlax (salmon marinated in salt and dill), hangikjöt (smoked lamb), and slátur (sausages made from sheep entrails). A popular food is skyr made of cultured skim milk, in the summertime it may be served with bilberries as a dessert. Brennivin is an Icelandic liquor made from potatoes and caraway. During the course of the 20th century, Iceland went from what was one of Europe’s poorest countries, dependent upon peat and imported coal for its energy, to a country with a high standard of living where practically all stationary energy is derived from renewable resources. In 2014, roughly 85% of primary energy use in Iceland came from indigenous renewable resources. Geothermal sources account for 66% of Iceland’s primary energy use. Today, about 9/10 households are heated with geothermal energy.

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ince 2019 it is illegal to overnight or camp in cars, trailers, motorhomes, campervans, or any type of motorized vehicle outside of a designated campsite unless you have written permission from the landowner. In addition, the entire South Coast of Iceland has banned wild camping of any kind, due to the heavy flow of tourists to the area. This includes sleeping in a tent. It is no longer permitted to camp at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon as this is located in Iceland’s largest national park, making it a protected area. However there is a large network of campsites across Iceland, and most of them are located in spectacular locations.

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Campsites Campsite prices can range between 1500 and 2500 ISK per person per night. There are approximately 210 campsites dotted across Iceland with about 40 of them being open all year round. You can buy an ‘Iceland Camping Card’ which gives access to dozens of campsites for up to 28 days, this card can be used for 4WD with Rooftents, RVs, Campervans or Tents and each card covers 2 adults and up to 4 children- note, these cards are only valid from May to September. As of 2021 the card costs €159. Camping is a very popular activity amongst Icelanders especially in the summer and so booking in advance with the campsites that you hope to visit is advised. There are usually campsites within a reasonable distance of most attractions in Iceland. For example, there is a campsite at Geysir which has lots of facilities such as toilets and showers and it is a very short walk from the campsite to see Strokkur and Geysir geysers. There are campsites near Skógafoss and near Svartifoss waterfalls.

Mountain Huts The Icelandic Touring Association maintains a network of 40 mountain huts all around Iceland, these are open and maintained by a warden during the sum-

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mer, and they are locked during the winter. It is recommended to book accommodation at a hut before your trip starts, otherwise, a place is not guaranteed. Camping is permitted by all of the huts, and camping does not need to be booked in advance, you should speak to the warden before erecting your tent and there is a charge to camp by a hut. Campers can use the bathrooms and drinking water and outdoor tables and benches, showers can also be paid used for a fee of 500 ISK. (about €3.50).

Tips for Camping Make sure you bring plenty of insulation and a warm four-season sleeping bag to ensure your comfort as it can be very cold even in the summertime, especially if camping in the highlands (the Nyidalur mountain hut and campsite is located in between two glaciers and can be very cold in mid-summer). A blindfold is also a good idea as Iceland is the land of the Midnight Sun and around the summer solstice, usually the 21st of June there are 24 hours of daylight. From May to August, it generally does not get dark at nighttime, so the blindfold can help you to get some sleep.

Camping in Winter It is not generally advised to attempt to camp in Iceland in the winter, especially in a ground tent ,as it can be very stormy, wet

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and snowy, daylight only lasts between 3-5 hours and the temperature can drop to -10C. Camping in winter is not safe unless you are exceptionally well equipped and experienced. Most campsites are closed between November and May. It goes without saying when travelling in Iceland that you should ‘Leave no trace’ never leave any waste of any kind behind you, not even degradable waste.

Campsites in Iceland

https://www.gocampers.is/useful-info/ campsites-in-iceland

Mountain Huts

https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/allmountain-huts

Camping Card

https://utilegukortid.is/?lang=en

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celand is located at the juncture of the North Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. The main island is entirely south of the Arctic Circle, which passes through the small Icelandic island of Grímsey off the main island’s northern coast. The country lies between latitudes 63 and 68°N, and longitudes 25 and 13°W.

closest bodies of land in Europe are the Faroe Islands (420 km); Jan Mayen Island (570 km); Shetland and the Outer Hebrides, both about 740 km ; and the Scottish mainland and Orkney, both about 750 km. The nearest part of Continental Europe is mainland Norway, about 970 km away, while mainland North America is 2,070 km away.

Iceland is closer to continental Europe than to mainland North America, although it is closest to Greenland (290 km) which is an island of North America. Iceland is generally included in Europe for geographical, historical, political, cultural, linguistic and practical reasons. Geologically, the island includes parts of both continental plates. The

Iceland is Europe’s second-largest island after Great Britain. (The island of Ireland is third.) Despite its name, and the fact that it is geographically located just below the Arctic Circle, Iceland has a relatively moderate climate. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Iceland enjoys a cool, temperate maritime climate

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with refreshing summers and mild winters. The climate of Iceland’s coast is subarctic. Despite its proximity to the Arctic, the island’s coasts remain icefree through the winter. Ice incursions are rare, with the last having occurred on the north coast in 1969. The climate varies between different parts of the island. Generally speaking, the south coast is warmer, wetter, and windier than the north. The Central Highlands are the coldest part of the country. Low-lying inland areas in the north are the aridest. Snowfall in winter is more common in the north than in the south. The highest air temperature recorded was 30.5 °C on 22 June 1939 at Teigarhorn on the southeastern coast. The lowest was -38 °C on 22 January 1918 at Grímsstaðir and Möðrudalur in the northeastern hinterland.

“IF YOU DON’T LIKE THE WEATHER JUST WAIT FOR FIVE MINUTES” -ICELANDIC SAYING

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Summers are pleasant, with average temperatures between 10-13 °C and daylight that extends far into the night. Winters are mild with an average temperature around 0 °C though the temperature can be as low as -10C even in Reykjavík in wintertime. Weather in Iceland is always susceptible to change at a moments notice. It is possible to experience all sorts of weather in just a matter of hours. Winds can be strong, and winter storms can be frequent. You might wake up to bright sunshine, but by the time you have dressed and had a shower, it could be snowing, foggy or raining. Always keep alert for weather warnings and follow official instructions to stay indoors if necessary. Iceland is beautiful at all times of the year, but parts of the country, such as the highlands are really only possible to visit during the summer months, normally June to September. Some experiences that are available in summer may not be available in winter and vice versa, for example in June you can experience the midnight sun, whereas in December you might see the Northern Lights. In addition to climate and weather Iceland also has a number of other environmental conditions that are monitored by and for which alerts are provided by the Icelandic Met Office, including earthquakes, volcano eruptions, and avalanches. This article uses content from the wikipedia article on Iceland.

Icelandic Met Office https://www.vedur.is/

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riving on the ring road or the roads in Iceland’s towns and capital is relatively straightforward and these roads are generally open all year round and can be driven in any car. However, the mountain tracks in Iceland also known as ‘F-Roads’ are only open for a short few months at the height of the summer and are impassable for the rest of the year due to the adverse weather conditions that they experience (the F stands for Fjall, which means mountain). F-Roads can only be driven on by 4x4 vehicles, and not all F-Roads can be driven by all 4WDs. When the TURAS team visited Iceland some years ago, one of the highlights of our visit was our experience driving across the highland road F-26 also known as the Sprengisandsleið a mountain track that runs through the Sprengisandur an essentially ‘desert’ region in the Icelandic highlands. F26 is by far the longest Icelandic F-road. It’s one of the only 2 roads which connect southern and northern Iceland directly. Here is an excerpt from our account of our visit to Iceland where we travel the F26 towards Mývatn. “From Háifoss we would drive to Mývatn via the Sprengisandur track, a leg which would take us right into the centre of Iceland, through the highlands, where we would drive and camp between the two glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

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Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

Up to now, we had forded two or three small rivers, but this route through the highlands on a rough, corrugated dirt track would bring us through a valley between the two giant glaciers and would also require driving through two deep rivers, water bras are definitely recommended. Travelling from Háifoss to Myvatn we had two options, taking the north ring road or else , the far more interesting and challenging Sprengisandsleið, the route which we had chosen, a distance of 219km but with an estimated driving time of a cautious 13 hours. This duration is due to the corrugated and uneven surface of the track and the requirement to ford several rivers en-route and our own unfamiliarity with the route. We planned to stop and camp near a mountain hut which was placed directly between the two glaciers 800 meters above sea level at Nyidalur. This hut was 100km away, about a 7-hour drive over the rugged track. Most of the mountain roads are closed until the end of June, or even longer because of wet and muddy conditions which make them totally impassable. When these roads are opened for traffic many of them can only be negotiated by four-wheel-drive vehicles. It is advised to drive very slowly on these tracks and accidents and overturned vehicles are apparently not uncommon, particularly those driven by visitors

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to Iceland. Driving across the Sprengisandur we were presented with yet another totally new and utterly alien vista, majestic highland deserts stretching into the distance. We travelled most of this track in close convoy, maintaining communication at all times via our walkie talkie radios. This was challenging driving, and very similar to Outback

tracks in Australia, the rough corrugated surface of the track caused a very jarring motion in the vehicles, the sides of the track were also not always easy to discern, and so constant concentration was required in order to prevent accidentally driving off the track. Deliberately driving off-road outside of the marked tracks in Iceland is prohibited as it causes damage to the

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delicate ecosystem which survives, eking a living in this seemingly barren environment. We finally arrived at Nyidalur mountain hut just as it was getting dark; the hut is placed right between the two glaciers so it was pretty chilly up there. There are actually two huts and an also an external shower/WC block. We arrived and asked the warden would it be ok to camp behind the huts on a patch of grass, where we saw

one other tent, and she indicated that this would be no problem at all. However as we began to unpack and take out the tents, we realised that this would be a very bad idea, within a couple of minutes of standing outside our fingers and then our hands started to go numb, we were wrapped up very well in multiple layers, but it was just too cold, even breathing the cold air was a little uncomfortable after having spent

hours in our heated cabs. Fortunately there were several places left in the hut, so we booked in, and were finally warm again.The next morning we set out again for the remaining 6-7 hour long drive to the Myvatn area. The rest of the route as the track descended down from the plateau between the glaciers was equally breathtaking as the first part and equally rugged. When we eventually drove back onto a strip of

asphalt road we got out to kiss it. That had been a bone-shaking 14 hours.” It should be noted of the Sprengisandsleið also, that there is no fuel available along the route, the two nearest fuel stations at either end are 249KM apart. And the only facilities in the region where you might buy food or water is at the Nyidalur Mountain huts in the middle of the route. Kaldidalur is another significant highland road stretch-

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convoy of at least two vehicles, for safety reasons. All mountain roads and roads in the interior of Iceland have a surface of loose gravel. The same applies In general driving on F-Roads to large sections of the national means crossing several unhighway, which also has long bridged rivers with water as stretches of asphalt. The surdeep as 1 meter approx along face on the gravel roads is often the routes. Crossing big rivers loose, especially along the sides requires a bit of experience. of the roads, so one should Do not attempt to cross with drive carefully and slow down one car, or during heavy rain. whenever approaching an onIt can be treacherous if the water level rises due to lots of rain coming car. The mountain roads are also often very narrow and and warm weather. Only wellequipped jeeps and larger vehi- are not made for speeding. cles are able to cross the rivers. The same goes for many bridgAlways check the river to ensure es, which are only wide enough for one car at a time. In addition that it’s not too deep. It is always recommended to drive in a to their not having an asphalt ing west of Langjökull, from Þingvellir towards the Borgarfjörður district.

Photo: GekoExpeditions.com

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There are also many blind curves in Iceland that test a driver’s skill. If you are looking for a four wheel drive experience unlike anywhere else in the world, that will both allow you A common place for accidents to occur on rural roads is where to traverse across a land that a paved road suddenly changes resembles driving on another planet and experience a unique to gravel. The main reason is that drivers do not reduce speed culture, put Iceland on your before the changeover to gravel, bucket list. and consequently lose control. Loose gravel on road shoulders has also caused a great number Iceland Road of accidents. When driving on Conditions gravel roads—which are often http://www.road.is/ quite narrow––it is important to show caution when approaching another car coming from the Road Information opposite direction by moving viewer as far to the right as is safely https://vegasja.vegagerdin. possible. Blind hills where lanes is/eng/ are not separate can be very dangerous and should be apSafe Travel Iceland proached with caution. https://safetravel.is/ surface, the mountain roads are often very winding. Journeys therefore often take longer than might be expected.

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F-roads are roads that cross the highland areas of Iceland. They are incredible routes, and can be challenging to drive and, in some cases, dangerous. The F-roads can contain a lot of loose gravel and some of them also require multiple quite deep and wide river crossings. In order to drive on F-roads, you are required to have a 4x4 vehicle (For the F-roads with rivers, It is required that you have a large 4x4 vehicle). It is also recommended that you drive the F-roads in a convoy of at least 2 vehicles in case you run into difficulties. Due to weather conditions and associated safety considerations, F-roads are not open all year round. They are only open for a short period of time. Some of the roads open in June, whilst others open in July. All of the roads will usually close around mid to late September. Some notable F Roads include the Kjölur Route (F35) is a 170KM route that passes through the remote interior and also provides access to the sights at Gullfoss, Hvítárvatn, Kerlingarfjöll, and Hveravellir. The F206 runs for 45KM through the south of Iceland and provides views of some incredible landscapes and access to the Fagrifoss waterfall. The F26 Sprengisandur track, which TURAS took on our visit some years ago is the longest F Road (200KM) and runs through a highland desert and between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers. This route runs through several rivers with water crossings as deep as 1 meter required.

Iceland Road Information Viewer

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Emil Grimsson - Arctic Trucks

. . w o N n e List

EPISODE #5

Emil Grimsson founder and chairman of Arctic Trucks is an experienced adventurer. Emil has participated in many expeditions in both the Arctic and Antarctic and is one of very few people that have traversed the continent of Antarctica. Arctic Trucks is a logistics service provider that has been operating continually in Antarctica since 2008. The Arctic Trucks vehicles have already made big impact on transportation’s on the continent

and Arctic Trucks vehicles are the only wheeled vehicles that are permitted to drive on Antarctica. In this podcast Emil shares the history of Arctic Trucks, and speaks about his experiences on various expeditions over the years. He also provides some very interesting insight and advice for driving in extreme cold conditions.

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with

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here are plenty of things we can check on our vehicles prior to heading off on that big adventure and by doing so this will bring you peace when on the road. Most of us can give our 4WD vehicles a basic service like changing oils, topping up on fluids, changing the oil filters etc but you should always consider giving your vehicle a detailed look over before departing on your big overlanding trip. Before venturing somewhere like Iceland, where you are frequently hundreds of miles from civilization and potentially also disconnected from mobile phone networks, it is important that your vehicle is as prepared and as reliable as possible. Important areas to focus on include checking the brakes, fluids, wheel bearings, bushes, suspension, if you plan on crossing rivers, which you certainly will be doing in Iceland, make sure that you have a snorkel and breather installed, this will also ensure good clean air is hitting your engine should as you drive through the deserts in the interior of Iceland . Check your belts and hoses, look for cracks or bulges and carry some spares. If you break down in Iceland being Check and clean your battery terminals and make sure your tyres are up for the task ahead also make sure you grease drive and tail shafts. This is just a sample of a number of checks you should make to your vehicle. Remember ‘’ by failing to prepare you are preparing to fail’’.

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Unlike the common modern experience of dealing with faceless companies with euro4x4parts, you will be dealing with real people who can advise you on their huge catalogue of parts available and make sure that you get the products/accessory you need for your 4WD. For example if you are not sure about your existing suspension you can ask the professional team at euro4x4parts and they will advise you on options available. The on-line euro4x4parts catalogue easily allows you to select the precise 4X4 part you need, avoiding unnecessary returns or you can call one of the

experienced sales team who will guide you to ensure that you get the correct 4WD part or accessory. The euro4X4parts range of products is extensive including quality rebuild kits including brakes, transmission, steering, engines, axles, and swivels to name. These guys have developed a solid reputation for providing a top-quality service not only in Europe but also throughout the world. With an impressive 80% of parts dispatched the same or the next day, they do not muck about and will ensure that you receive your required parts on time. So if you are looking for a onestop shop where you can purchase all your 4WD mechanical parts, camping and Overlanding gear and much more at competitive prices and all topped off with an excellent customer service well euro 4×4 parts provides all of the above.

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and

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O T

year wethe have It depends onver on the on, last of course, he extreme conditions been working closely with temperature and type of snow. What ofpartners the Nordic winter reour on rebuildyou can do but on a standard car stanspecial knowledge. ingquire the year oldor dard four by four Ah,twenty with standard This is noaRover news TURAS Land Deor winter tyres Or maybe little to bitFinnthe ish Nokian Tyres, the fender, and we are desecretary Two or three inch Ah, tyres. world’s northernmost lighted to general finally say that wethat arethe now out Um, the rule is is taller tyre and there fruits of our labour. and enjoying narrower the Tyr willmanufacturer, very often cost Arctic Trucks, an Icelandic company spethrough into into your to get you more cializing in four-wheel Sotraction. was it worth it?, Honestly, overall So conversions if you have aofvery wide it drive vehicles. The two companies have was a um, challenge andconditions, it took a lot more tyre, in some it will not teamed before inwas order to grip master the work and up effort than originally ancut through and give you the that world’s harshest The ticipated, but now that weconditions. are out there it's Anthony's. Umwinter So ah told narrow latestAh, result of the partnership enjoying the again,we canbetween safetyre willvehicle in some snow give you the the experts of ice and snow is the lybest. saytwo that the decision to rebuild it Ah ah, you know, give you the Nokian Hakkapeliitta 44 winter tyre. was the right one. With a new suspenbetter best herself. But, um and then sion confidence in tackling youthat put brings metal chains on and they are The Nokian Hakkapeliitta 44 is at home tougher terrain, a new storage system quite efficient. in harsh conditions. In the that has uswinter organised like never be-arctic climate, is important be able fore, a topyou of itthe range rack, capaTo give traction inroof the to snow. But to trust your tyres and know for sure ble tyres,traditional wheel rims, a new once you get above this type of snow that you the trip not be clutch, flywheel, sideinsteps, and havewill tobumper, kind ofinterrupted get tow, by a puncture or impassable terrain. ArcLED lights,protecting chassis and you know, when thethe snow doesn't retic Trucks’ special vehicles are used, much more we now have a vehicle that ally have an end. You know it It can for example, so 20 their we are very in excited about. be metres. Itpolar couldexpeditions, be, you know, tyres must also meet metres. So it could behigh 100 requirements. metres or That is why Like the new Nokian Hakkapeliitsomething, when you are? No, you ta 44 takes winter seriously. The know, it doesn't really that there'styre no is designed for hard use no in harsh winter bottom there. There's attraction to conditions, and that is where it feels have underneath. Then you need to most on at home. float this. No. And you come into likely arena over the belt us then, um Emilneed Grimsson Founder Arctic Trucks we the bigger tyresofon. We derecently shared hiskind experiences with flate them and we of may try to and opinions the with TURAS. build the of tyre sotyre it becomes like a belt. But as a general rule Ah, on the under “My first experience of the Hakstandard car, you know Ah new ah depends kapeliitta 44 was in Greenland. We had

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to drive south to north then south again as there was no other exit, this was approximately a 5000KM drive. My car had the Hakkapeliitta 44 and the other cars all used the tyres that we had previously been using. The two main benefits that I immediately

noticed were that I was using a lot less fuel, I’d estimate that the vehicle using the Hakkapeliitta 44 was about 20% more fuel-efficient on the snow on average. This is huge for our expeditions, particularly in Antarctica, in Antarctica, you could pay $10000 for a barrel

of fuel in some locations and a lot of fuel is needed down there. The second thing is that when snow is very difficult and soft, this tyre is just superior in the way it compresses the snow and gives you floatation over the snow, this enables us to drive on much softer snow

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of get ourselves. I think that's -40C that's whatever you before want. You're in time and you automatically on who's who's just with than we could withdrivafol- to and any we approach the part thetyres culture. lowing. you're getting stuck. You ing and what tyre. this experience similar-sized Before this on Maybe ifpart we of stopped onofthe we Um decided I using mean,previously, Itto think, And you giveum, it more is. let's say the is theBut other tyres, we person used before, were the tyre again, it comes a little bit. What Trying to to navigate on The in and you are completely used to snow, driving a four byhave poor on soft we would to gas would not function - it needs compared to, I you know, in realhostile trick ishas when this hapstuck. Youitknow, you could just and the feeling for crawl in low gear and itiswould heat, and willBut cool down and my experience, I travel quite a pening is ifcar you are inaasome take yourself down the tyres four of Ahtravel has feeling take us the hours to few crack and it would take us a to lot. Ah, ifthey I comp### Europe, sort of slope. Ah, and so a spin and take away for a grip toOn get a grip. Ah,it's um kilometres. the Hakkapeliitta long time to get going ineverythose it's quite unique. Ah, in terms way that let's say you're in a thing you have for for grip. if the car's spinning or how is 44 just in low range, we could temperatures because whenUm, of that landscape, in terms size slope you're goingThis up- so anditofthe anothgoing so15-20km ah,and there's similardrive at pera hour. the tyreisisone not thing flexible just variety, off that youare You're You're sitting thing give thatscenery you the frequently ity let's say, a sound in ain iswards. awith completely new dynamic for er doesn’t you flotation haveyou and colours, but the kind car. at the with this. sand Ah, You're youactivity. ahlooking youIn reduce the dealing this of addition, that need and Um its aand tricky ah, in you know And and And GPStyre on on DA.the You maya be Ah, winter issit's iss tyre pressure tohighway get bitisgoing more the quiand also a bitrecondition of a risky situaofwhiteout course, volcano on awhen volcainand the feels direct line, but you're A basically wins flotation on da Then you tried et good in terms of tion on the athat high plateau nic on having to your thermal steering. It'soverall off. You your your youroccurs.The disability ah to keep momentum they try toe your steering and it feel is really this situation Hakreality having a lot waterfalls, your your into the sysaway. can goof away benot to stopturning going upwards. Ah, goes very good. kapeliitta 44It on the other hand having later saysand like that. tem. So you feel thatgoyou are go cause ah, there's athink thick snow unless you're gonna back, can stop in -40C even lower Andwe and, ah, even ifthere's it's over down turning the the storm. So So the So just back to into you. Tryinto to stop There are some sacrifices made and can drive off. Of well, course it'sthis it'stemperature, relatively very big and tell you knowing so hard big, andwe blowenough in your asmall waysenses that you can. instop a certain set of conin also compared to theyou population. youhave have toexample have ttoincorrect. ing sotohard that can't see You the moment to miss ditions, for mud. need consider the lubrication Ah, and ahyour ah Well, of the course, Ah, tyre vehicle on then. Ah, you front of car.and But it can you. For a person that has thisgo in The has a fine tread that on the gear ratios gearit's an island withthat its with ah line.tailored Ah,this or you go off off also happen that ah, experience, canthe getsnow, him. isoff more to boxes and things like thisall andin theneed middle ofgo the Atlantic theArctic off the truck and ah, this Ah the contrasts away. So you You can help him.are Butseldom it can but Trucks we to be very careful when Ocean or Cannon North North ah, Tough training, training as cannot distinct ISS between also work against him because in these conditions. In very wet we take off, but the tyre itself is Atlantic Ocean touching the well. And I guess the pilots will the horseman on the snow and ah, inthe the snow speed Mo sufsnow, thehistory performance may and functions re-in Given of theor Landy and no theissue places westill have explored elastic circle. so and so the we willa well, in way have this you cannot seeUm, any anything in mentum work against you. fer littlecan onsome these tyres, but ally well. I dont know where it, I think deep down we always knew that the vehicle would hopeare. We benefit from theI don’t Gulf kindthe ofthere experience. Ah, when when front offor you. It'styre allenjoying white and And trick is no to overall is comparison limit is but fully keep going forknow as long as we were able tothat keep theso Stream. But what for? For it.” me. they trust the instrument, when trick off.too Of course, ifto it works with you and be when and we are very happy with this weanother think will need toattached test great outdoors. Truth known werewe just a bit You know I can I can I can say you're you're driving driving following a 4WD road, doesn't work it a works tyre anditwhen we see thisfuture, as huge itit to let go. In when the we will you're no doubt embrace newer for Oh, myself, my mice. What I feel Yeah, money. Ah. Soofyou are90 you that against you.but So sometimes in step forward inUm this size tyre. um Nokian Hakkapeliitta is it's the technology, with the knowledge that the hasknow had 44 a makespecial about is I to would okay? Yeah. My al- continuation be able see, the snow youvery it'smy all computer aboutof never ofIceland the story that over and the thought beingmarked able to You takemay it on future trips say ifthe Um,the you, theor waysiswent toNever sleep. I can still but you're following a truck losing athe grip. have any off This only on the marbegan infreedom, 2014, when first without having totyre worry about it too much is very comforting. options of the going kind of like hear me. I am. Okay, anywhere good. So or basically you're driving on on the tyre spin. Preserve the grip ket today that comes product cooperation beWe learned a huge amount completing this of project and for those away sort fromof from going someyeah. Um, what's so special some um, then you have and B s gentle to go near this performance, tween Tyres and of you who followed ourdriving progress you willNokian have tundra, noticed thatArctic it was where where there's nobody or about Iceland? If you ask the you need to follow. Ah, use the forward as possible as possible nicely and quietly onnew the parts high- but Trucks, not all about adding equally Nokian enjoyedHakkapeliitta salvaging as veryAT35 few you people ihsaa and just last nothing person, it's everyGPS. Ah, need tohave have you on DA This ison agood trick thatsoft We way and also super on LT2 winter tyre for big much asThis we could the vehicle. were delighted to had the fresh air,orthe you know. thing is Antarctica special. You know, we have a point or the a in track or it's sometimes hard for people snow. In we can face 4-wheel drive vehicles, was the opportunity to have worked with some of the best Ah, there'sBefore there's some of always always think highly launched. -50c andway below temperatures this, thesort com-

panies had collaborated commercially for a long time. The origin of Arctic Trucks can be traced back to 1990 when Toyota in Iceland started modifying 4x4 utility and sport utility vehicles. Today Arctic Trucks are the leading professionals, specialising in conversions of various 4WD vehicles.

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mil Grímsson is the Chairman of Arctic Trucks and polar addicted. With his enthusiasm for the polar regions, Emil has been one of the driving forces behind Arctic Trucks success. When BBC Top Gear headed for the magnetic north pole he did not hesitate and jumped on board to plan and support this incredible expedition and piece of television history. Since then he has taken on several expeditions to the South Pole and was one of the first-ever to traverse the continent of Antarctica.

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Here Emil explains the differences between ‘normal’ winter driving on roads and driving on snow that is meters deep.

like a belt. But as a general rule on a standard car, it depends on who is driving and how much experience the person has, but let’s say the person has experi“It depends on the temperature ence driving a 4wd and has the and type of snow, what you feeling for the car and for grip should do. Most people with and if the car is spinning. There 4WDs that are driving in snowy is a similarity with driving on and wintery conditions, on a sand. On the sand you reduce standard 4x4 with standard or the tyre pressure to get a bit winter tyres 32 or 33-inch tyres more flotation and you try to - the general rule is that the keep momentum and not stop taller and narrower tyre will very on an upward incline. You try to often cut through to get you stop on a slope where you have more traction. So, if you have the momentum with you when a very wide tyre, in some constarting up again. For a person ditions, it will not cut through that has this type of sand exand get you the grip that is perience, it can be a help, but underneath. Tall narrow tyres it can also work against them in some snow will give you the because in the snow momenbest performance. And then you tum can work against you. And can add metal chains, which the trick is to know when it is are quite efficient at giving you working with you and when it traction in the snow. is working against you. Sometimes on snow, it’s always But once you get above this about never losing a grip and kind of snow into deeper snow, never having any of the tyres when the snow could be meters spin, preserve the grip you have deep, and there is no traction and go forward as gently as to have underneath, in these possible. This is a trick that is conditions, you need instead sometimes hard for people to to float on the snow. In these get, sometimes you feel you are conditions, you come into the getting stuck, and automatically arena of tracked vehicles. Then you decide to give it more gas, we need bigger tyres and we de- and you are completely stuck flate them and it becomes more the tyres spin and dig you down

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and take away all the grip you had. That is one thing, another thing that you frequently deal with in winter conditions is a whiteout, basically, your visibility goes away entirely, perhaps because of a thick snowstorm for example. It is snowing and blowing so hard that you cannot see anything at all in front of your car. It can also happen that all visible contrast disappears so you cannot distinguish between the horizon and the snow and you cannot make out anything in front of you, everything is just white. Another thing, if you are following an unmarked road or track or driving on some sort of tundra, then you need to use the GPS and have a track that you are following on the GPS and the real trick is if you are on some sort of slope, let’s say you are on a side slope and travelling upwards, you are sitting in the car, you are looking at the GPS and you may be going in a straight line but you feel like you are turning into the side slope, you feel like you are oversteering into the slope and your senses tell you have to correct the vehicle and this causes you to go off your line and leave the track. An instrument-rated pilot would have the same kind of experience where you need to use and trust your instruments. This is an important skill to have for driving in these types of conditions”.

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