ISSUE 64 May/JunE/JulY 2009
DIESEL
PERFORMANCE
EDGE IS THE LEADER IN INNOVATIVE PERFORMANCE TECHNOLOGY Edge Products pioneered the way for in-cab monitoring and control with its revolutionary Juice with Attitude product. Since then, Edge has developed other in-cab control devices, like the Evolution programmer and the Insight, all of which fit a number of domestic late model gas a diesel trucks. Edge’s products provide perfect, flexible power for any need with power to tow, go, or blow away the competition. And nobody does fit and finish like Edge. Would you even be able to tell what aftermarket product is on this truck if we hadn’t circled it? We take pride in not only making the best performing product, but also the best looking. Make no mistake: Edge pioneered and revolutionized this industry, and our competitors have been trying to catch up ever since. For the finest performance electronics for your truck call (888)
And we’ll be setting the bar even higher with better and more innovative products in the future. At Edge Products, we take the time to do things right. We don’t just slap our name on some privatelabeled piece of cheap plastic – we design, manufacture, and produce all of our products in house. From the concept to the parts to the process, we do it all under one roof. So don’t settle for purchasing products from an imitator – buy from Edge Products, the innovator!
490-EDGE or visit www.edgecummins.com
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EDITORS
Robert Patton Bob Vallier Jeannette Vallier
CONTRIBUTORS
Jim Anderson Mark Barnes Kevin Cameron Joe Donnelly John Holmes Doug Leno Andy Mikonis Andy Redmond Gary Wescott
Bruce Armstrong Don Bunn Scott Dalgleish Ken Freund Polly Holmes Sam Memmolo Jerry Nielsen Bill Stockard G.R. Whale
ILLUSTRATOR Bob Pierce
OFFICE STAFF
Be a TDR Writer Contest/ATF Change
14 Member2Member
Steering Improvements/TAG 3 Update
Mini Version of Member2Member Members’ Solutions to Members’ Questions
18 10 Back
Issue 24 Examined
A Look Back Ten Years Ago in the TDR Magazine
20 First Generation
Fuel Filter Leak/Spring Hanger
Owner-Specific Articles on the ’89-’93 Trucks
24 12-Valve Engines
Transmission Shifting/Installations
28 24-Valve Engines
Fuel Filter Leak/Installations
Owner-Specific Articles on the ’94-’98.5 12-Valve Trucks Owner-Specific Articles on the ’98.5-’02 24-Valve Trucks
32 5.9 HPCR Adjustments/Injectors
Owner-Specific Articles on the ’03-’06 5.9 HPCR Trucks
38 6.7 HPCR
Oil Analysis/DTCs/TSBs/New Fuel Filter
52 Technical Topics
Media Gibberish/Fuel and Oil Additives
GENO’S GARAGE
Owner-Specific Articles on the ’07 and Newer Trucks Service/Parts Updates
56 Cummins Column Ask the Engineer
Discussions with Contacts at Cummins
58 Blowin’ in the Wind
Pam Rose
Responses from the Readers
10 Turbo Tips
ALL DIFFICULT WORK
Issue 64 Challenge/Cover TDR
6 Letter Exchange Your Letters
Tina Bean
Robin Patton Andy Bishop Brandon Parks Wendy Poole Scott Sinkinson
Tailgating
Letter from the Editor
Ford and Navistar Divorce is Final
Industry News
60 TDReview New 2010 Turbo Diesel
An Article or Product Review
64 Your Story A MEMBERSHIP/SUBSCRIPTION TO THE TURBO DIESEL REGISTER IS $35.00 PER SUBSCRIPTION. PLEASE SEND ALL SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION, CORRESPONDENCE, LETTERS, RENEWALS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ETC., TO:
TDR 1150 samples industrial drive cumming, GA 30041 THE TDR IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY BY DIESEL REGISTRY, INC. DISTRIBUTION TO MEMBERS VIA PERIODICAL POSTAGE IS IN THE MONTHS OF FEBRUARY, MAY, AUGUST AND NOVEMBER.
‘06 3500 SRW Becomes a DRW
Feature Article on a Member Vehicle
66 Four Whaling
Fiat and Chrysler
Journalist G.R. Whale talks about all things Diesel
68 Idle Clatter
Many Topics
A Review of Frequently Asked Questions by Jim Anderson
72 Ranch Dressing
Equipping the New ‘99
Esoteric Dissertations on Manure Shoveling by John Holmes
78 Polly’s Pickup
82 Have Ram Will Travel
Joe Donnelly’s Truck and Travel Stories
90 Motor Minded
Barrett-Jackson
A Feminine Perspective by Polly Holmes
TST PowerMax CR/NV5600 Rebuild
Reflections on the Human Side with Psychologist Mark Barnes, Ph.D.
The Proverbial Glass
ARTICLES ARE WELCOMED FROM ALL SUBSCRIBERS. LET US HEAR FROM YOU! WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT ANY SUBMITTED MANUSCRIPTS. WE WILL ACCEPT MANUSCRIPTS IN IBM ASCII TEXT FILES OR FROM ANY POPULAR IBM WORD PROCESSORS, ON COMPUTER DISK, OR SCRIBBLED ON A RESTAURANT NAPKIN.
92 Chapter News Local Contacts
THE TURBO DIESEL REGISTER IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH CHRYSLER CORP., CUMMINS INC., OR ANY OF THEIR SUBSIDIARIES. ADVERTISING OF PRODUCTS OR SERVICES IN THE PUBLICATION DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ENDORSEMENT OR APPROVAL. WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES, ACCIDENTS, INJURIES, INVALIDATION OF WARRANTY, FAILURE TO PASS EMISSION STANDARDS OR SAFETY INSPECTIONS AND WILL NOT BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE IN ACTIONS RELATING TO OR RESULTING FROM ANY SUCH SITUATION.
COPYRIGHT © 2009. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR PART WITHOUT PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. POSTMASTER: Send address change to TDR, 1150 Samples Industrial Drive, Cumming, GA 30041. USPS number 014234 ISSN number 10888241
Happenings at Local Chapters
94 TDR/R/R
Referrals/TcDR/High Mileage
Referral/Recognition/Reward
98 Earn Your Stripes
Horsepower Recognition
Recognizing Big Horsepower
100 Backfire
Rail Pressure, Fuel Mileage and the TDR
Corrections, Clarifications, Crow Eating
102 TDRV
Wax the RV/Follow Up
106 Shop Floor
The Truck’s Computer
Turbo Diesel Perspective on RVs Tips From Turbo Diesel Repair Shops
112 Product Showcase Amsoil Dual By-Pass Filter
Featured Products
117 TDRelease New Products
Vendor Press Releases
119 Exhaust Note
Thought-Provoking Discussions with Kevin Cameron
122 Advertiser Index
Diesel Alternatives How to Contact
TDR 64
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DO WHAT YOUR MOTHER SAID As I scanned a recent newspaper, my wary editor’s eye was caught by a bold-faced message, one that should hit squarely between the eyes of every columnist, TV talking head, blogger, and radio news commentator: “Americans (and the world) are clamoring for the slightest bit of good news. It is called ‘consumer confidence’, and so much rides on the psyche of the consumer. Perception is reality.” Regular readers of my editorials know how I feel about the irresponsibility of much of the national media, its strident alarmism, how instead of responsibly reporting a problem, it often seems intent on overstating the point. We steer the TDR out of this tide. In this challenging time, we are resolved to cut the rant. We keep our eye on what makes the Turbo Diesel world go ‘round. And therefore herewith is the focused theme for Issue 64: we recall what your mother said (or should have said) when there was too much scary stuff on the tube: “Turn off the television, young ‘uns, and go outside and play.” THE ISSUE 64 CHALLENGE With this issue you will find your 2009 TDR Member decal inserted into the cover wrap. It will proudly take its place alongside your ‘07 and ‘08 decals, to be emblazoned in a prominent location on your truck. As I reflect back to a year ago when we completed 15 years of publication and made our move to a full-color magazine, I noted too the challenge I issued then to the full membership, that they help to spread the good word about the TDR. On that occasion, several of our staff writers issued the same challenge to readers (an idea they must have conceived intuitively, or, in more down-toearth inspiration, via e-mails bounced back and forth in the giddy days before the deadline for copy). We all knew it was going to be a difficult year. And difficult it has been.
Oops… see my commentary about avoiding the “rant”: maintain a positive demeanor. All right. How about this? As you trawl the internet or pick through newsstands, you have discovered that the membership of TDR is the most respected in the field for technical knowledge, insight into all things diesel, and helpfulness to others. You, the membership of TDR, are the Number-One resource for Dodge/Cummins Turbo Diesel owners worldwide, and you should be proud. I sure am. Thank you for the identity that this membership group has earned. Pride is only the beginning. The lull in Dodge/Cummins Turbo Diesel pickup sales signals a need to be self-sufficient. As suggested last year by writers Anderson and Neilsen (these guys were the most insistent, but the insinuation cropped up in other writers’ columns too), this was the message: “Why not put a TDR brochure inside the cover wrap and challenge each member to sign-up an additional Turbo Diesel owner. Recognize the members in the TDR/R/R and—bingo!—the membership is doubled.” All right, let’s try it. Inside the cover wrap you’ll find a TDR brochure. Put your name in the “referred by” area. Make note of “The Cost of Ignorance” section and provide some technical insight to a Turbo Diesel owner that you’ll meet along the way. Give them the brochure and invite them to join us. Need extra brochures? Call us and we will forward them to you. Go forth and hand out the brochures. As you talk Turbo Diesel to a new acquaintance, you may discover a new friend in the process.
I will spare the details about the TDR’s rocky road in this economic turmoil. For us the ruts in this downturn are manageable. Yet, if we believe the prognosticators, we still have another year to muddle through. And hovering in the background is the fact that if Dodge and Cummins are not selling trucks, we are not gaining subscribers.
“Turn off the TV and go outside and play.” A picture of TDR brochures that we’ve used over the past 16 years.
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TDR 64
TAILGATING . . . . Continued COVER OF THE TDR THIS AND FUTURE ISSUES
THE FRATZOG—COVER OF THE TDR ISSUE 63
The “Cover of the TDR” artwork program was initiated in last issue’s editorial. The first to participate was the Forbus family: Jim Dawn and Melissa. If you’ve been to a May Madness event you know the Forbus family as they along with Mom and Dad (the Simerlys) are several of many that keep the event running smoothly. The truck that is on Issue 64’s cover has been in the Forbus family since it was new.
As you looked at Bob Pierce’s Issue 63 cover artistry, did you notice the Fratzog that he painted on the side of my ’07.5 Mega Cab/Long Box truck?
Would you like your picture on the cover? The artwork-on-the-cover idea is a worthwhile endeavor. Artist Bob Pierce is agreeable and he can be reached at (802) 893-0320; e-mail bobandstephi@comcast. net. Bob lives in Milton, Vermont. I also talked with Kelly Snyder (she did Issue 61’s cover portrait) and she is also available to do artwork for the TDR’s cover. Kelly can be reached at (520) 481-3300: e-mail dieselartist@gmail.com. Kelly lives in Tucson, Arizona. Both artists have agreed that $375 is a fair price for a painting of your truck. Get busy and send them a picture of your truck for the cover of the TDR.
The what? The Fratzog. I will save you from having to do a search on this noun. The definition from Wikipedia: Dodge’s logo from September 1962 through 1976 was a fractured deltoid composed of three arrowhead shapes forming a 3-pointed star. One of its designers came up with the meaningless name Fratzog for the logo, which ultimately stuck. As the Dodge Division’s logo, Fratzog was incorporated in various badges and emblems on Dodge vehicles. It was also integrated into the design of such parts as steering wheel center hubs and road wheel covers. And, a little bit of Fratzog history comes to us from auto. howstuffworks.com: “In 1962, Dodge cars sported a smart new emblem, triangular in shape and composed of three triangular elements. According to stylist Bob Gale, it was developed via an in-studio competition. ‘We all tried different designs,’ he recalls. ‘Mine came in second and Don Wright’s came in first, so we used his.’ “Wright, a retired Chrysler design chief, remembers the event well. ‘The company had an outside design firm working on a new logo,’ he said recently, ‘but nothing they came up with was automotive. Bill Brownlie thought we in the studio could do better, and challenged us to come up with some fresh ideas. I formed the design around elements of the Forward Look emblem, repeated three times.’
The cover for Issue 62.
“‘I thought the design looked pretty good as a 2-D graphic,’ he continues, ‘but I never did like the 3-D version the guys in the Ornamentation Studio later came up with to put on the car. Of course, being a triangular logo, it caught the attention of MercedesBenz. Their lawyers and Chrysler’s lawyers went round and round about the design for several years, but [unlike Studebaker in 1953] we never had to change it.’ “When it came time to submit a patent drawing for copyright purposes, Chrysler attorneys asked, ‘What do you call it?’ Stuck for a name, someone in the studio came up with the nonsensical Fratzog (which Wright still despises). Now you know.”
The cover for Issue 63.
Perhaps that was more than you wanted to know? What is the point of this Fratzog rambling? My truck doesn’t really have a Fratzog painted on it. But, with a clear picture of the concept thanks to Bob Pierce’s artwork, I may give it a try. It is neat what an artist with an idea can do. Is there a paint concept that you want to try on your truck? This is another reason to have your truck on the “cover of the TDR.” Yes, we will send five copies for your mother... Now, turn off the TV and go outside and play
This issue’s cover.
Robert Patton TDR Staff
TDR 64
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NEW MEMBER/2004 TRUCK MAINTENANCE EXPERIENCE Issue 63 was the first issue I have read and was well worth the subscription. I hope Americans seriously consider G.R. Whale’s conclusion on page 60, “And if Detroit looks bad, consider the instability around the world which history shows tends to initiate wars…now is not the time to be shutting down a good portion of our manufacturing base.” It is nice to actually read commentary on current events that keep context with history—good stroke to inform and possibly enlighten young (and some not so young) subscribers. For the TDR members: Years ago when Navistar was called International Harvester, it was noted to mechanics working on DT466 engines that as a general rule, for every .001” that valve lash was off spec, the timing was off 4 degrees for that particular cycle relative to the position of the rocker depending on ratio. We could hear when valve adjustment was off. In 2004, one of our Class 8 truck customers (we operated Southwest Truck and Equipment for 25 years) stopped in and stated that his new Dodge Turbo Diesel didn’t recommend valve lash adjustment during the first 100,000 miles. Chrysler’s reason being that: “If measured valve lash falls within these specifications [intake .006”.015”/exhaust .015”-.030”], no adjustment/reset is necessary. Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or level of engine noise.” At the time, I was uncomfortable with the parameters listed.
So, as a test, our new business, S Bar X, bought a new 2004 Ram 3500, 4x4 single rear wheel to try on for size. It was placed into field service August 2004 as a heavy equipment support vehicle in the oil and gas patch surrounding the tri-corner areas of Utah, Wyoming and Colorado hauling fuel, employees and whatever else. This duty lasted until January 2008 at 100,646 miles when it was retired for an easier job: mainly on-highway use pulling a 14,000 GVW ball hitch dump trailer averaging 850-1250 miles/week. Oil field conditions in the Rocky Mountain area can get nasty, and during winter months lots of idling ensues when weather gets well below zero. With that in mind, the unit was serviced every 100-125 engine hours/2000-3400 miles and very seldom beyond. Short of deep water crossings or continual operation in muddy or extreme dusty conditions, the differential change was Shell Spirex 75-90 in late fall/winter and 85-140 during late spring/summer; transmission ATF+4 at15,000 mile intervals; transfer case Mobil 1 ATF at 30,000 mile intervals, with fifth-wheel rotation every other engine service and complete wash job at least three times a week. At 82,336 miles the fuel transfer pump quit in a Colorado winter storm about 142 miles from home at midnight. Our local dealership did their in-tank replacement under warranty and we had the tie rod ends, drag link and steering stabilizer replaced at the same time. The OEM shocks were replaced at 12,000 miles and air bags installed at 57,000. As a side note, the dealership that we had dealt with for 25 years had recently changed hands. They called and said the Cummins’ pan gasket was leaking and we probably needed a rear main seal to boot—all under warranty, no less. That one service writer’s phone call to me cost the dealership our business. With 154,800 miles today, the OEM pan gasket and rear main seal are still doing their jobs, the service writer is not; industry cannot afford those types of individuals or poor training. The rear driveshaft assembly was replaced with new at 73,799 miles (comparable cost to that of repair and balance). At 125,000 miles, the front drive axle shaft joints, front driveshaft, front and rear brake pads and caliper bolt boots were replaced. At 137,978 miles, front and rear trans-bands were re-adjusted—they were checked at 99.654 miles with the rear band out of adjustment ½ turn. Now at 155,000 miles the ball joints, upper and lower suspension arms and stabilizer bushings and links will be replaced. So far the track rod appears to be hanging in there. This was all to give you an overview of a pretty darn good working truck with reasonable service life that has served us well under some fairly adverse conditions with close attention to maintenance to ward off unscheduled breakdowns. No add-ons, all OEM, since it is our test vehicle.
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TDR 64
LETTER EXCHANGE . . . . Continued Now back to the first paragraph where I spoke about valve adjustment. We haven’t noticed a change in performance, fuel economy or level of engine noise attributable solely to valve lash. At 149,570 miles/4,357 engine hours, I could no longer stand it so I pulled the valve cover during a regular service and checked the lash. The attached chart shows the valve settings. So overall, with a vehicle that has worked hard but was rarely abused, I think Cummins and Chrysler have done rather well. However, I won’t allow any other mechanically actuated unit to go that distance without pulling covers and checking specs. Perhaps other issues of TDR have touched on this subject; please point me in that direction.
WATER-METHANOL INJECTION While reading Doug Leno’s article about water-methanol injection (Issue’s 62 and 63) I recalled the water injection system on the 1930’s John Deere Model D tractors that I spent hundreds of hours operating during WWII. These were two-cylinder tractors that ran on stove oil and were quite powerful. We started them on gasoline by cranking them by hand with the compression released. After they warmed up we switched them over to the stove oil. When the load was heavy, the engine would begin to “plink,” so we would turn on the water valve that allowed the coolant water to slowly be added to the intake manifold. This eliminated the “plinking” sound and seemed to be quite satisfactory. This was straight water and amounted to about a quart an hour of operation. Robert Olson Lewiston, ID Robert, interesting story. You wrote, “The engine started on gasoline and then switched to stove oil. Late in the run cycle it used water to keep things cool.” No doubt you enjoyed Kevin Cameron’s water-methanol history lesson that was also in Issue 62. I guess you could say your old Model D was a hybrid? You were green before being green was fashionable. 100% DODGE My heart is 100% Dodge. I have Dodge trucks from 1947 to 2004. Enclosed is a picture of my two everyday trucks. The ’97 has 238,000 miles and the ’04 is working on 100,000 and we will be there soon.
One thing is for certain, even if a little whining goes with it, old dyedin-the-wool mechanical B-series engine dogs like myself need to get off the porch. Randy Shipman Rock Springs, WY TDR IS OKAY I am 70 years of age. During this short span of time I have been a lifelong drag racer, motorcycle rider, shooter, mechanic, service manager, and magazine aficionado. I purchased the first Hot Rod magazine back in 1951. I loved reading Cycle magazine when Cook Nelson was at the helm. I still enjoy Kevin Cameron’s prose in Cycle World and in the TDR. I’ve got to say that the TDR is right up there with the best of them. Gene Sayre Chewalah, WA
I have never had the ’97 on the dyno, but the ’04 has been tested. The ’04 does real well for a work truck. She goes out everyday hauling and pulling trailers. Don’t tell anyone, but the most the ’04 2500 has hauled is 33,450 pounds. It has 535 horsepower and 935 ft-lbs of torque.
Gene, from your bio sketch, I can see that we share the same interests. Thank you for the kind comments.
Warren Milne Eaton, CO TDR 64
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LETTER EXCHANGE . . . . Continued $35.02 AND THE TDR I had about decided that if I didn’t get some news about Chrysler in Issue 63 there would be no need to renew my subscription. But after gleaning a bit from writers Whale (pages 59-60) and Holmes (page 66) I have recanted. If TDR can’t find out much about Chrysler because it’s privately held and therefore required to release much less financial information and that ambiguous “Will O’ the Wisp” called Cerberus isn’t talking, I can’t expect TDR to print something which isn’t printable. And, I’ve siphoned some bits and pieces from newspapers which may contribute a little to this automotive jigsaw puzzle. So, I’m mailing my check of $35 for another year of TDR, and also will contribute my two-cents worth again (see TDR 54, page 8). Really, you are getting a good deal—$35 plus two cents=$35.02. I saw this Chrysler fiasco coming a few years ago, but Dodge dealers wouldn’t listen. When Chrysler buckled under to Mercedes, I even hoped (and suggested), that they put the Mercedes five-cylinder diesel in a Dakota. At that time, the Dakota had cleaner lines than the carp-mouthed Ram. Then, in 2005, I was ready to trade in my ’01 2500 for an ’05, because I wanted a slide-in camper and the ’05 was pre-drilled for the tie-down brackets. I visited three different dealers from Alabama to Ohio, and thought I had found a good deal, which included my trade-in and a $1000 factory rebate. Just as the salesman was filling out the final papers, he asked me how I was going to pay for the balance after trade-in. I never batted an eye when I said, “Cash.” His eyes didn’t bat either, but his lips moved. “You can’t have the $1000 factory rebate if you don’t finance the balance with Chrysler Financial.” Well, I had financed the ’01, and paid it off, but then my lips moved again, and I told the salesman that when the day came that Chrysler or anyone else penalized me for paying with my hard and honestly-earned cash they could keep their product. He could put his papers in File Thirteen and I’d keep not only the thousand dollars, but a few thousand others and my old truck. Now for the newspaper tid-bits to augment TDR’s meager news about Chrysler/Cerberus. In an article about Supertankers, which haul the imported crude oil, we are told that they “have the largest diesel engines in the world” and burn “tens of thousands of gallons of diesel fuel per day” (Charleston, WV Gazette). And, the refiners say that they really lost money on refining gasoline in the last part of 2008, but made it up on the sale of diesel fuel. Wonder if those Supertankers burn off-road, LS fuel, and the Feds and States get a cut of the taxes? Like Cerberus, they may not be required to reveal their financial status, but none of the foregoing seem to be bashful about asking for billions of bailout dollars from taxpayers. Chrysler may even be sociable enough now to accept my measly few thousand in cash. When Harry Truman began to sit behind the presidential desk, he said, “The buck stops here.” I’d like to add to that phrase and say, “My bucks not only stop here, they STAY here. And if you want them, partner, smile when you ask.”
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TDR 64
Now to Chrysler President, Jim Press (USA Today, 2/16/09). Jim admits that he “erred badly” two years ago when he made some forecasts about the auto industry. He was with Toyota then, but now he is with Chrysler. But I reckon his presidency doesn’t extend to Cerberus. Well, I’ve decided to hold on to my old ‘01 Ram, with its new set of tires, batteries, and brakes. And unless Chrysler, Cerberus, or TDR can enlighten me further, for the first time in 18 years I’m ready to consider something besides a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel. And, maybe if Jim Press moves back to Toyota, and can take a few Cummins TD’s back for the big Toyota pickup, I’ll even consider an offer sans a $1000 penalty. The first warm day, I’m about ready to slide under my old ’01, look at the new tires and brakes, trip the drain plug on the oil pan, then refill for my eighteenth oil/filter change, with a $4 Fram and about eleven quarts of Wal-Mart SuperTech 15W-40 oil. (See, I read my TDR.) And while the oil gurgles down the fill-pipe, I’ll scan those two new batteries again, before I crank over those musical-sounding injectors. You’re welcome to the two cents, anyway. P.J. Casebolt Pomeroy, OH P.J., thanks for the vote-of-confidence with your renewal. As I noted in Issue 63, we could chronicle the upheaval in the auto industry but yesterday’s government loan could very well be tomorrow’s sale, bankruptcy or protected bankruptcy. Like you, those with interest are following the daily soap-opera story by local news and trade publications. In the closing paragraph you mentioned using a Fram oil filter. Back in Issue 33 we did a visual analysis of 13 different oil filters that could be used on your engine. The Fram did not fare well. Then in Issue 34, page 105, there was notice of a product recall on the Fram oil filters used in Cummins 5.9-liter applications. Internal adhesive was coming loose and going through the engine oil system and clogging the engine’s piston cooling nozzles. Dodge warned the dealer network of this problem and listed the approved oil filters for the truck in their TSB 09-004-01, found on page 65, of the “Turbo Diesel Buyer’s Guide” pdf file at our web site, www.tdr1.com. I’ve often preached the virtues of Fleetguard’s (a Cummins subsidiary company) filter media that is known as StrataPore (see page 51 for an explanation). It is more expensive, but I believe it to be a viable alternative to the Fram filter’s cellulose filter media. That’s my two-cents. We’re up to $35.04.
TDR 64
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BECOME A TDR WRITER—YOUR TIPS by Robert Patton Without much fanfare, last November we introduced a “Become a TDR Writer” contest at the TDR’s web site. The contest was inspired by the helpfulness of TDR member Harvey Barlow and his do-ityourself instructions for changing a 6.7-liter engine’s fuel filter. When I read Harvey’s post on the web site, I thought out loud, “This is what the TDR is all about! Members helping members with the website and magazine as channels for the flow of information.” I captured Harvey’s comments and added them to an article that I had already written that was published in Issue 62, page 40, of the TDR. So, we sent Harvey a check for $100 and announced a “Become a TDR Writer” contest. The contest lasted a month and we published the winning entries in Issue 63. For reference, grab your Issue 63 and turn to page 32 and 33 to read Ryan Battelle’s instructions on “How to Replace the Rocker Box Gasket.” Turn to page 36 for the detailed answer by “sag2” to a question about turbocharger soot on the 6.7-liter engine. Page 36 also has helpful correspondence from “Bob4x4” about the operation of the 6.7-liter engine’s EGR system.
STARTER DOES NOT ENGAGE Bill Thomas, “Missouri Mule,” submitted a common sense tip that can be used when you turn the key to “start” and nothing happens. So, you go through the basics— • Battery’s up to the task? Yes. • Any noise from the starter solenoid? No Rather than drag out the voltage meter to verify voltage at the starter, an often dirty and difficult-to-reach task, focus your efforts at the truck’s power distribution center. Bill suggests that you “remove the start relay and use a doublemale-sided jumper wire. Now, with the ignition in the ‘run’ position, the starter should engage as your jumper wire makes the connection from pin 30 to pin 87.”
The contest guidelines mentioned that other submissions would be printed in the TDR magazine. Publishing deadlines did not allow me to incorporate the tips in Issue 63, so we will publish the tips in this magazine. Without further delay, we present tips from the TDR audience that you will find helpful in maintaining your truck.
Your homemade jumper from #30 to #87 will energize the starter.
Does the starter engage? Yes. Time for further troubleshooting. Things to look for: • the obvious—a faulty relay • neutral safety switch • start position on the ignition switch • clutch switch From Bill’s tip you get the picture. As a part of my tool kit I now have a double-male-sided jumper wire. In Issue 62 on page 40, Harvey Barlow discovered the 1/2” drive indentation on the bottom of the 6.7-liter engine’s fuel filter canister. This same indentation is on the newly-released 6.7-liter fuel filter canister that you can read about on page 50.
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TDR 64
Bill Thomas Smithville, MO
TURBO TIPS . . . . Continued CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID by Robert Patton “Matt B” submitted a tip that can save you from the fluid mess that accompanies an automatic transmission fluid service job. Matt’s tip also allows you to change the majority of the transmission fluid. The “majority of the fluid;” what do you mean? In a typical drop-thepan service you are only changing about half of the fluid, there is fluid that remains in the torque converter that does not drain. Okay, how do you change the majority? Matt would have been one of the contest winners, but this changethe-majority tip was presented back in Issue 42. The following is a reprint from Issue 42. This technique can be used on ‘94-’07 trucks with the 47RH or 48RE automatic transmission. Owners With the ‘94 - ‘07 47RH or 48RE If your transmission pan doesn’t have a drain plug (read: your very first transmission fluid change), to provide for an easy fluid change, or if you want to change all of the fluid (net change 10-12 quarts), try this method. Pinch-off and then disconnect the return-to-transmission cooler line from the radiator (location: driver’s side of vehicle; bottom corner of radiator just beside the radiator coolant/fluid drain petcock). Of the two transmission lines, this is the outboard line and (thankfully) it is the easily accessible line. Take the 1/2” rubber hose and bend it upward to prevent fluid drainage. Next, connect a three-foot length of 1/2” rubber “purge” hose to the metal flare coming from the radiator. Feed your rubber hose into a five-gallon container.
Owners With the ’07.5 and Newer 68RFE For this transmission the transmission cooler lines attach to the cooler assembly using crimped hoses. Regardless, you can use the same technique to remove the fluid, but you have to find a different disconnect location. Inspection of the transmission cooler lines for the 68RFE reveals that the entry and exit fittings to the transmission are on the passenger side. Which is supply, which is return? That’s why you pay your $35 TDR subscription—the editor gets to take the 50/50 challenge in hopes of discovering which line is the return line. Before exploratory removal, I tried diagnostics with an infrared temperature gun hoping to see a big temperature difference in the two fluid lines. Perhaps I should have waited for a hot summer day, but deadlines prevail and there was little temperature difference. The fitting and cooler line that was easiest to reach was on the bottom. As luck would have it, this is the return-to-transmission line. Using a 1” wrench I disconnected it from the transmission. I found a ¾” heater hose, 3’ in length, and hose-clamped it onto the threaded fitting. The hose was directed into a 5-gallon bucket.
The bottom cooler line is the return-to-transmission line. Remove it with a 1” open end wrench. Clamp a 3/4” ID hose over the threaded barb and direct the fluid into a 5-gallon bucket.
I noticed that both the supply and return lines were held with a brace on the driver’s side of the transmission. For extra wiggle-room when removing the transmission pan, I removed the brace (14mm bolt) with allows the lines to be pushed out of the way. A view of the transmission lines from the front of a Second Generation truck. Follow the “cold” line back to the transmission cooler and disconnect the line at the junction point. Attach your purge hose to the metal flare at the transmission cooler.
With the truck in Park, depress the emergency brake, chock the tires, then start the engine. Shift the transmission into Neutral. ATF will begin flowing into the container. Once the flow begins to dwindle, immediately turn off the engine. This technique will yield 10-12 quarts of fluid. Re-attach the 1/2” rubber hose/cooler line to the metal flare from the radiator. Continue with your transmission maintenance by dropping the pan. (The fluid is gone, so you will avoid the fluid bath that can happen with a full transmission sump.)
With the truck in Park, depress the emergency brake, chock the tires then start the engine. Shift the transmission into Neutral and ATF will begin flowing into the container. Once the flow begins to dwindle, immediately turn off the engine. This technique on the 68RFE yielded 10 quarts (at least that is how much I put back into the transmission to get it to the proper level). Re-attach the cooler line to the transmission and continue your transmission maintenance by dropping the pan. The pan is held on with 8mm bolts. Remove the bolts and you’ll find that Mopar TRV sealant holds the pan onto the body of the transmission. Start in the back corner and lightly tap the pan. For what it is worth, there was still enough fluid in the pan to cause a small cascade of ATF over the edge of the pan. Better a small fluid bath than a large one? Remove the pan.
Clean the pan. Change the transmission filter. Make a decision about installing a B&M drain plug or temperature sensor.
Clean the pan. Change the 68RFE filters. Make a decision about installing a B&M drain plug or temperature sensor. TDR 64
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TURBO TIPS . . . . Continued NEXT ITEM—TEMPERATURE SENSOR In my previous ’03 Turbo Diesel truck I installed a transmission temperature sensor in the transmission pan using a B&M drain plug kit. For the four-years and 120,000 miles that I owned the truck I never saw a transmission fluid temperature higher than 195°. Highest, so far, on my ‘07.5 truck, 212°. I was pleased with this low temperature number and was thankful that I did the temperature baseline test. The data convinced me that a fancy, finned aluminum transmission pan was not necessary. This is Freddie Frugal speaking, “Establish a baseline, evaluate, modify if the need arises.” TDR members appreciate Freddie’s straight-up advice. Aftermarket vendors hate Freddie. Using the “drain the fluid through the hose” method, it was easier to drop the 68RFE’s pan and avoid the big fluid bath that occurs when the pan has not been emptied. There was some overflow on the back corner as I removed the pan. With the pan removed I drilled a ½” hole and installed a B&M drain plug. The plug for the B&M kit is a male 1/8” NPT fitting. I removed the fitting and replaced it with an oil temperature sensor that uses 1/8” NPT male threads.
Next I removed the transmission filter using a torx socket. Remove the transmission’s external filter using a strap wrench or filter claw tool. Reinstall the filters and the transmission pan. Torque the pan bolts to 13ft-lbs. (The 13ft-lb value was verified in the ’07 Service Manual and this is the same value as used back to the ’94 trucks.) Refill transmission with Chrysler ATF+4 fluid. I could not find the capacity for the 68RFE in my Owner’s Manual. Using my “drain through the hose” and pan removal method I found that 10 quarts were needed to replinish the transmission. After refill, the correct procedure for checking your transmission fluid is outlined in your Owner’s Manual. • The vehicle must be on level ground. • The engine should be running at curb idle speed for a minimum of 60 seconds. • Fully apply parking brake. • Place the gear selector briefly in each gear position, ending with the lever in N (Neutral).*** • Remove the dipstick and determine if the fluid is hot or warm. Hot fluid is approximately 180° F (82° C) which is the normal operating temperature after the vehicle has been driven at least 15 minutes. The fluid cannot be comfortably held between the finger tips. Warm is when fluid is between 85° - 125° F (29° - 52° C). • Wipe the dipstick clean and reinsert until seated. Remove dipstick and note reading. a) If the fluid is hot, the reading should be in the crosshatched area marked “OK.”
Cleaning the RTV from the 68RFE transmission pan.
b) If the fluid is warm, the reading should be between the two holes. If the fluid level indicates low, add sufficient fluid to bring to the proper level. • Fluid is added through the dipstick tube. ***I cannot over-emphasize that the transmission fluid should be checked with the gear selector in Neutral. With the vehicle in Park, there is no fluid flow! Hence, if you take a transmission fluid level reading with the vehicle in Park, the reading will always be higher than it actually is. Additionally, should your transmission fluid become too hot, shift the transmission to Neutral—not Park—to ensure that there is fluid flow and thus the opportunity for fluid cooling. Conclusion Barlow, Thomas, “Matt B” and I have given you some worthwhile maintenance ideas. The “Turbo Tips” section of the magazine awaits your input.
From my study of the internal parts of the 68RFE, I determined that the best place for the drain plug was the location that I marked “B&M.”
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Robert Patton TDR Staff
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I think you will agree with me when I categorize Turbo Diesel owners as independent people who are not afraid to try something new. You are an ingenious membership who reinvents and improves a product to make it better serve your needs. You show a strong willingness to share your shadetree solutions. With your input each quarter, we publish the “Member2Member” exchange to give you a forum to tell other members how you solved a problem. Steering improvements – part 2 by Doug Leno In TDR issue 63 (page 112) I described the use of the BD Steering Box Support (SBS) to apply additional structural support to the factory steering box. This solution corrected a steering wander which had been developing over time and then became pronounced when I installed new Toyo Open Country AT tires in size 285/7017. The Issue 63 article did not, however, address a different and unrelated steering problem which these tires also seemed to exaggerate—a slight pull to the right.
Turbo Diesel owners often use the expression “every truck is different” to describe the variability associated with manufacturing tolerances. This is especially true for the solid axle front end design of a four-wheel drive Turbo Diesel. However, it is not the purpose of this article to discuss the various front end alignment terms and specifications. For such an article, I encourage readers to consult Andy Redmond’s excellent article in the “From the Shop Floor” segment In TDR Issue 53. This article will concentrate on correcting the right-hand pull I was experiencing. Figure 1 is an exaggerated illustration of my problem. By using recently-calibrated laser-equipped alignment machinery operated by a 20-year alignment veteran, the following issues were identified: • My front axle is rotated clockwise (when viewed from above) so that the left wheel is ahead of the right. • My rear axle is rotated counter-clockwise, so that the right wheel is ahead of the left
In this article I will describe my experience understanding and correcting this problem. It is enlightening when you have to deal with the consequences of operating a truck outside of factory specifications. Problem Assessment To assess this problem, I had to remind myself that my truck’s front suspension is not factory anymore. My over-sized tires are accompanied by an after-market Kore Chase suspension upgrade, which lifts the front end about three inches. This does not substantially change the front end geometries, but there is a cause and effect. For example, the factory track bar (which I retained) pulls the axle to the left about one third of an inch under the influence of such a lift. I realized that my steering bias problem could not be understood by making routine measurements at an ordinary, highvolume tire store. So, I decided to find an experienced alignment shop. A knowledgeable and trustworthy alignment shop is worth its weight in gold, and even more golden when dealing with aftermarket suspension upgrades that take front end geometries beyond the factory design. I have great respect for the shops that demonstrate exceptional knowledge and experience in this area, especially those that let me watch and ask questions. I once had alignment work performed at three different shops within 24 hours, just to find out which ones had recently calibrated their equipment, demonstrated the most experience, and were willing to spend time explaining their work to me! Obsessive? These efforts have paid off substantially.
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Figure 1: This shows an exaggerated view of the problems contributing to my right-hand pull. The right-side wheelbase is shorter than the left.
The measurements revealed that the right-side wheelbase is shorter than the left, which causes the truck to pull to the right. By itself, the left-hand shift in the front axle position (due to the lift) is insignificant, the technician explained, but may have a greater impact in my case because of the rotated axle.
Member 2 Member . . . . Continued Available Adjustments Of the front alignment adjustments available, castor* represents the only opportunity to help correct steering bias without introducing irregular tire wear or steering instabilities. Castor refers to the angle of the steering axis (as viewed from the side of the wheel), represented by an imaginary line drawn between the upper and lower ball joints. The angle that such a line forms with the vertical (a line drawn through the center of the wheel) is the “castor angle” or simply, castor. Our Turbo Diesels are manufactured with positive castor, which simply means that the lower ball joint is slightly forward of the upper one. Both ball joints are fixed, however, so there is no way to (directly) adjust castor. The variability inherent in the manufacturing process means that the left and right castor are rarely equal, and the truck will therefore tend to pull towards one side (the wheel with the least amount of castor). As fortune would have it, my truck was manufactured with a slightly smaller castor angle associated with the left front wheel, as compared to the right. This alleviates the right-hand pull somewhat, especially when driving on the right-hand side of roads with builtin crown. But the effect is not enough in my case. Fortunately, both axle rotation and castor are influenced at the same time by adjusting the eccentrics on the lower control arms. Analysis of the problem illustrated in figure 1 reveals a sensible opportunity: Using the eccentrics, I could extend the right-hand lower control arm and shorten the left-hand lower control arm. The result: • The right-side of the front axle would move forward and the left-side would move back, correcting the axle rotation problem and wheelbase difference • A very small twist would be introduced to the axle, increasing castor on the right while decreasing castor on the left The eccentric adjustment made to the right-hand lower control arm is shown in figure 2. By utilizing all of the available adjustment room provided by the factory, I obtained another .3 degree increase in “cross castor,” or the difference in castor between the left and right front wheels. My left front wheel now has .5 degrees less castor than the right wheel, the maximum difference allowed by the factory.
left-hand lower control arm. This corrected the wheelbase difference and indirectly influenced castor as well: The castor of the left front wheel is now .5 degrees less than the right front.
My alignment shop informed me that adjusting the axle in this way can introduce additional stress on the control arm bushings. The adjustment is acceptable, however, because it stays within the factory allowed adjustment range. It should be noted that the lower control arm eccentrics do not directly adjust castor, which is fixed by the upper and lower ball joints. They do, however, influence castor by pushing out or pulling in on the bottom of the axle tube, which introduces a very small amount of axle twist. Fortunately, with over 40,000 miles since adjusting the eccentrics in this way, there is no evidence of premature bushing wear. However, the effort did not completely solve my right-hand pull, and for some time now I have had to accept the fact that factory adjustments may not be able to accommodate non-factory components! Corrective Action: An After Market Steering Damper To address the remaining right-hand pull, I could install an aftermarket adjustable track bar, which would allow more latitude in left-to-right axle placement. However, I had installed the Kore Chase suspension with the understanding that the adjustable track bar, while helpful, was not necessary. So I began looking to another component that needed replacement anyway, my steering damper. As of this writing, my truck has approximately 80,000 miles on the odometer with the factory steering damper. This part has fatigued, as evidenced by a very small amount of “bump steer” instability which I experience occasionally. I had purchased the Kore race series steering damper some time ago, but I had not installed it.
Figure 3: Factory steering damper: The passenger-side mount point (left hand side of the photograph) is welded to the axle tube, while the shaft end is attached to the steering tie rod (far right of the photograph). This design absorbs vibrations in the steering system without introducing any significant bias. Figure 2: Adjusting the eccentric on the right-hand lower control arm extended the bottom of the axle forward (to the left in the photograph). The opposite adjustment was performed on the
*Doug uses “castor.” I’ve always seen the word as “caster.” The dictionary says that both are acceptable.
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Member 2 Member . . . . Continued The Kore Steering damper was designed to perform in situations where the factory damper quickly fails—the use of high traction, large diameter tires running at low pressures over rough terrain for long periods of time. Supplied with 200 psi nitrogen charge, it also provides a very useful bias to the steering tie rod which tends to force the truck to back to the left. I had postponed taking advantage of this benefit long enough.
The Kore steering damper fits into the passenger-side factory mount point, which is welded to the axle tube. This is also the location of its nitrogen charge/bleed valve (see figure 6).
Figure 6: Kore damper installed in the passenger-side factory mount point which is welded to the axle. The nitrogen charge/bleed valve (bottom center) is also visible. Figure 4: Compared with the factory steering damper (bottom), the 2-inch diameter Fox/Kore steering damper (top), is able to tolerate the abuse of off-road driving with large-diameter tires.
Removal and Replacement Removal of the factory damper from the axle mount point is easy. Removing the shaft end from steering tie rod can be a pain due to its taper-fit. With some patience and judicious use of penetrating oil, I was able to break mine loose (see figure 5).
Figure 5: Factory steering damper’s taper-fit partially removed from the steering tie rod. This step may require penetrating oil and patience!
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Attaching the Kore damper to the factory steering tie rod is a different matter: Instead of utilizing the factory tapered mount point, Kore uses a two-piece machined aluminum clamp. Correctly positioning the clamp onto the tie rod is not difficult, but it is very important to correctly center the damper within the truck’s steering range. I used a floor jack, laid on its side and positioned against the left front tire (figure 7), to compress the damper enough to correctly position the clamp before tightening it down. The completed installation is shown in figure 8.
Figure 7. A floor jack can be used to compress the Kore damper to correctly position the clamp prior to tightening.
Member 2 Member . . . . Continued TURBO AIR GUIDE/TAG 3 UPDATE Notice to all TDR members that may have installed a Third Generation Turbo Air Guide known as a TAG 3. Carson Dodge has seen two turbos fail due to pieces of an early version of the TAG 3 breaking off and being sucked into the turbo. Let me emphasize, this doesn’t apply to the all-metal TAG 1 and TAG 2 models. It ONLY applies to some of the first editions of the TAG 3 models with the plastic housing manufactured before 2004. (Remember, old stock could still be sitting on the shelf somewhere.)
Figure 8: Completed installation of the Kore steering damper. A custom aluminum clamp attaches to the steering tie rod, avoiding the factory taper mount, which is visible to the left of the clamp.
Results Installation of the Kore steering damper not only eliminated that small bump steer instability, it also caused my truck to pull to the left! This was good news, for two reasons: First, this meant that my suspension was very close to factory limits, even with the Chase system installed along with the factory track bar. Second, it confirmed that it would be possible to obtain perfectly neutral steering by bleeding some of the nitrogen pressure from the damper itself. This was a matter of experimentation: I drove for several days under various road conditions, mentally keeping track of the truck’s pull to one side. After proving the left-side bias under all conditions, I bled a small amount of nitrogen from the damper by measuring it with a digital gauge. Careful! The volume of nitrogen is so small that every measurement removed about 20 psi or so.
How do you tell if you have one of the models that might be subject to failure? Carefully examine how the stainless steel “honeycomb” is inserted into the plastic housing. If yours has the honeycomb “molded” into the plastic, you’re okay. However, if you see a very thin band of steel around the circumference of the honeycomb, that allowed the unit to be pressed into the plastic housing, that’s the one that has the possibility of failing. (I’ve found two so far among our trucks because I worked with the manufacturer in testing some of the first ones built.) If you identify yours as one of this type, contact Brian Howell at (866) 379-8685 for information on how to exchange the unit. John Holmes TDR Writer
After several weeks of experimentation, I achieved the neutral steering performance I was after at a nitrogen pressure of 115psi. Conclusions • Aftermarket upgrades or component changes may have side effects that are past the limits of factory adjustments to correct. • The services of an experienced and helpful alignment shop are invaluable to properly set up a stock truck, and even more so when dealing with aftermarket suspension upgrades. • I’m thankful for experienced off-road component manufacturers, such as Kore, who have thoroughly tested everything they sell, and know what works. Doug Leno TDR Writer For more information about Kore products, contact: Kroeker Off Road Engineering www.koreperformance.com 760-749-8687 TDR 64
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I have often lamented that as a society we don’t properly honor the inventiveness and achievement of our elders. So let us give that bygone achievement some proper and regular observance in our pages in the “10 Back” column.
Whale was the photographer and member Andy Perreault’s truck was the truck on the cover and featured in our “All Dressed Up” column. By the way, where are those member stories that can make a good All Dressed Up story?
In each installment of the “10 Back” column I will reprise the accomplishments of TDR trailblazers by recalling an article still as relevant in today’s Turbo-Diesel world as it was the day it was written. Ten-year-old article reprints will then be posted in the magazine archives section of the TDR web site.
What else was interesting about Issue 24? Part-time writer Andy Mikonis and full-time writer Joe Donnelly were added to the writer masthead. The page count of Issue 24 was 124 pages, 12 pages larger than Issue 23.
So, without further ado, we present our ever-new feature column: 10 Back: Issue 24 – May, June, July 1999 In Issue 24 the TDR membership was abuzz about the TDR national event that was scheduled for August and hosted by Cummins in their hometown of Columbus, Indiana. The ’99 TDR Nationals would represent the fourth national gathering that Dodge and Cummins had sponsored in a five year period. The theme for the ’99 TDR Nationals – A 10-year Celebration of the Dodge/Cummins Partnership. Yes, those were the good ‘ole days. Were you in attendance? A bit of trivia—the cover picture for Issue 24 marked the first time a TDR member’s truck was on the cover. The previous TDR covers were photography supplied by Dodge. Members had not sent in professional-grade photography that we could use. Our own Greg
Interesting and still relevant articles? Consider the following: • TDR member Jeff Prince wrote in to tell us about his 3500 Turbo Diesel that he had modified and taken to his local drag strip. Using mathematical formulas we estimated Jeff’s truck to be at the 450-475 horsepower level. • The May of ’99 Issue 24 magazine marked the one-year anniversary of the merger of Chrysler and Daimler. My review of Issue 24 and the previous “10 Back” articles and old magazines show that there was not much ink devoted to the merger. Hindsight is 20/20 and the merger would draw ample attention as news would surface in late 2000 that the merger had, in fact, been a takeover. But, thinking back to 1999, the merger was perceived as good news. • Thumbing through the pages, I noted that TDR members were purchasing diesel fuel in the 87¢ to $1.09 price range. • I was alerted by a tip that an exposed nut on the alternator that is charged with 12-volts and can arc if grounded by a stray wrench made me examine the same item on my ’07.5 truck.
A picture of our Issue 24 cover that featured photographer Whale’s photo of Andy Perreault’s truck.
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It is difficult to see the exposed terminal on the back of the alternator, but it is there. From our look at trucks in the parking lot we found the ‘03 and newer trucks have adequate insulation shielding.
10 BACK . . . . Continued Speaking of dangerous sources of 12-volt + electrical power, take a look at he exposed + terminals on both of your batteries. I’ve been looking for a suitable cover to sell to 1.75 million Turbo diesel customers. Help! • Issue 24 reported much discussion of exhaust brakes and their use with automatic transmissions. How relevant was the information? Would you believe that the text was used for emphasis in last issue’s discussion of exhaust brakes? See page 75 of Issue 63 and realize that some things do not change. • Joe Donnelly did a thorough review of Dana differentials, differential rebuild and backlash setting and reviewed the MagHytec differential cover. • Scott Dalgleish installs several Banks Engineering products on his ’98, 12-valve engine and bumps the performance from the stock 215hp (188hp at rear wheels) to 277hp (238hp at rear wheels). The cam plate was changed, the turbo’s exhaust housing changed from 12cm to 14cm, and the exhaust system was replaced. Old-school horsepower. • Dodge showcased a Power Wagon concept pickup truck at the Detroit/North American International Auto Show. The truck had a 7.2-liter Caterpillar diesel engine under the hood and the rumor mill was set into motion. Would the upcoming 2003 Third Generation truck use a Caterpillar engine? Perhaps the Daimler merger would force Dodge to use a Mercedes Benz diesel? Rumors‌
• At the same show there was a Dodge Durango with a 4.0-liter V-6 with a Detroit Diesel “Deltaâ€? engine. More rumors. • Jim Anderson notes that “by far the largest number of complaints on the 24-valve engine center around lower-than-expected fuel mileage.â€? The aftermarket vendors were busy trying to modify the engine’s ECU and/or change the performance by use of an add-on box. There weren’t yet many products in the performance market for the engine. • Jim Anderson writes in his newly created (Issue 23 was the first) “Idle Clatterâ€? column that Joe Donnelly’s Air + Fuel = Power article from Issue 23 was well received by the TDR members. As you know, in Jim’s “Idle Clatterâ€? column he documents the frequently asked and newbie-type questions and responds in a patient manner. I thank Jim for his easy-going, even-tempered personality. The Issue 23 Donnelly article is a part of the TDR archives at our web site, www.tdr1.com. As we have done in previous “10 Backâ€? columns, we have captured the text of several of the above articles and added them to the archives, too. Oh yeah, the Y2K thing‌it was now just 7 months away. Robert Patton TDR Staff
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SOLVING THE STEERING PROBLEM ON THE DODGE RAM 4 X 4 1994-2002 FOR LESS THAN $100 The problem with the steering on the Dodge 4x4 is a loose tracking bar. The end that is attached to the frame is a joint with a ball and socket. The joint will become loose and cause a serious steering problem. Replacing the tracking bar will only temporarily solve the problem. Luke’s Link will rebuild this joint for the life of the truck. •
Luke’s Link is a heavy-duty rebuilding kit made from ductile iron. (Ductile iron is rated 40,000 psi) No special tools are needed to install the kit. No welding.
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This kit will not fit MOOG track bar. Your truck is equipped with a MOOG track bar if the bar is 2� in diameter across the grease zerk end. If your truck has this track bar call us about our exchange program. US Patent #4613250
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Coverage of the ’89 through ’93 Model Trucks. Web Site Correspondence Edited by Bill Stockard and additional Q&A written by Joe Donnely. REPLACE BULBS IN CAB LIGHTS A couple of bulbs in the cab lights on my ‘91 Turbo Diesel D350 have burned out. What size bulb is required? When replacing the bulbs, is it necessary to replace the gaskets? peobryant, Goshen, KY The replacement bulb for the roof clearance light is a number 194 bulb which has a flat end that pushes into the socket. I have replaced several bulbs and successfully reused the original gasket by leaving it in place. If the gasket isn’t cracked, carefully clean and reuse it. I’ve had one off a couple of times, but it didn’t require replacement. tugboatphil, Floyd, VA REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER I need to replace the fuel filter on my ‘92 Turbo Diesel W250. Is it easier to replace from the bottom or from the top? Is there anything that can be removed to make the job easier? It’s winter and I don’t have access to a shop. CSchoepp, AB Remove the fuel filter from the top using a filter strap wrench. Make sure the heater stays in place as well as the fuel filter stud. Be aware that there is a rubber square O-ring on top of the fuel heater between it and the filter head. pepecat, Davis, CA
LEAK ON FUEL FILTER HOUSING There is a fuel leak near the top of the fuel filter housing on my ‘92 Turbo Diesel W250. It appears to be from the fuel line that feeds the filter from the fuel lift pump. However, it was the square cut O-ring above the fuel heater which is between the filter housing and the fuel filter. The replacement O-ring is Fleetguard Part Number 383418-S and is available from a Cummins dealer. BGore, ME Thanks for the information. I too have a fuel leak near the top of the filter housing. southpaw, San Diego, CA/Monett, MO HEATER VALVE When I replaced the heater hoses on my ‘93 Turbo Diesel D250, I forgot to note the position of the coolant On-Off control valve and I am unsure of the correct coolant flow. Should the arrow on the valve point towards the firewall or the radiator? BHerring The hose that attaches to the pipe coming out of the top of the engine will be pressurized and should have the valve in it. WJones, So CA The arrow on the valve should be towards the firewall. LBARTLETT LOWER RADIATOR HOSE
I’ve always changed the fuel filter from the top and never used a filter wrench on the fuel or oil filters. I’ve never had a problem with leaks.
I purchased a Goodyear replacement lower radiator hose for my ‘93 Turbo Diesel D250 and it doesn’t have a spring wire inside it like the hose I removed. Is this spring wire needed? BHerring
Remove the old fuel filter and remove the water sensor. Replace the O-rings on the top and bottom and reinstall the water sensor. Reinstall the new filter until it is almost tight and then back it off a little. I use the lever on the fuel pump to fill the filter, which requires about 15 or 20 strokes. When the fuel begins to spill out, tighten the filter and start the engine. I’ve changed the fuel filter using this method probably close to 30 times without an issue so far. BGore, ME
The coiled spring is to prevent the hose from collapsing under suction or should there be a cooling system malfunction. I have seen them in hoses previously, but new quality replacement hoses are very stiff and contain more fiber reinforcing material and probably don’t require the springs as did the older hoses. If you maintain a clean cooling system and the spring is in good condition, shove it into the new hose. upsyes
It’s a simple ten minute job. While unscrewing and screwing the filter back on, be careful not to twist the wire harness for the water separator. If the weather is cold, replace the fuel filter after the engine is warmed up. Standing on a block of wood or a tire helps too. glhs, Cheyenne, WY/Brighton, CO
I am on my third set of hoses in 215,000 miles, including the original hoses, and none had springs in them and there have been no problems. All of the replacements have been Goodyear except the heater hoses which are silicone and all have been trouble free. Bob Beauchaine, Portland, OR
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FIRST GENERATION . . . . Continued LOOSE STEERING I recently purchased a ‘93 Turbo Diesel W250 with 204,000 miles on the odometer. The steering feels loose with lots of play. No front axle and steering components have been replaced except front axle U-joints. What components are associated with the loose steering problem? I need a checklist for parts that affect steering performance. Firstgenfanantic, Bremerton, WA I would look at kingpin bushings, tie rod ends, and possibly replacing the original steering shaft with a Borgeson Steering Shaft. After the repairs are completed, get a thorough front end alignment from a reputable alignment shop. pepecat, Davis, CA
I contacted Geno’s Garage and discovered that they can order any model number of Isspro products. If you see a brand you like at Geno’s, but not the specific part number, just ask. They will get it for you. Thanks for the suggestion. Firstgenfanantic, Bremerton, WA SPRING HANGER BUSHINGS Has anyone replaced the rear spring hangers on the front springs? Where can I buy replacements?
The Pitman arm and idler arms may need replacement too. A couple of years ago I helped a friend who had about 30 degrees of play in his steering wheel. We replaced the original steering shaft with a used Borgeson joint which eliminated about 95% of the play. It was amazing. JLEONARD, Torrington, CT Check to make sure that the steering gear box is tight on the frame. rumblefish, Decatur, IN My Turbo Diesel W350 had about 30 degrees of play in the steering when I purchased it. New tie rod ends and drag links cured about 85% of the play. The front wheel toe-in is the only thing adjustable on these trucks. Measure the track width at the front of the tire and rear of the tire to check the tow-in. The factory service manual has specifications on toe-in. dpuckett, Cape Girardeau, MO/Mt Eden, KY
Dieselman359, Saint Louis, MO
Check the flexible joint on the steering shaft just above the gearbox. Most of the steering play is probably there. Replacing those parts costs $30 to $40; or purchase a Borgeson shaft for about $200. I also recommend checking the draglink and tie rod ends. PToombs, Minoa, NY What brand replacement parts should I purchase? Thanks for the suggestions. Firstgenfanantic, Bremerton, WA I suggest Moog replacement parts. rumblefish, Decatur, IN ISSPRO TACHOMETER I have decided to purchase an Isspro R5503 tachometer with a white pointer for my ’93 Turbo Diesel W250. I want a white pointer tachometer because I want to match my other gauges which are Isspro EV gauges with the white pointers. The sellers I have contacted only sell a tachometer with a red pointer. Does anyone know a source for getting the exact tachometer with a selection of gauge cups? Firstgenfanantic, Bremerton, WA Geno’s Garage sells a tachometer that goes to 3,000 RPM and is $122. peobryant, Goshen, Ky
You will need four of Dodge Part Number 02953700. There are two bushings in each bracket. You can see the split line between the two bushings in the photo. Philip, IN The same bushings are used on the two wheel drive truck upper control arm. I purchased mine from NAPA. Since I could not remove the bushings, I took the brackets to the heavy truck shop and had them press the bushings out and then back in. Greenleaf, Ashland, OH
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FIRST GENERATION . . . . Continued FRONT ROTOR DISC WEAR
INJECTION PUMP LEAK
I replaced front brake pads on my ’93 Turbo Diesel D250 with an aftermarket set. After about three weeks, I removed the front wheels to inspect brakes. I noticed the outside of the rotor had no wear on the bottom ½-inch which means the pads are not touching the rotor ½-inch from the bottom. However, the back side of the rotor shows the pad completely touches the rotor. I decided that I may have purchased the wrong pads and I ordered pads from EGR Brakes (a TDR advertiser) part number 086. Their pads are the exact dimensions of the after market. Is it normal to have ½-inch of unused rotor on the outside and full pad to rotor contact on the inside?
My 1993 Turbo Diesel has a leak in the engine area. I thought it was the power steering pump at first, but it seems to be from the injection pump above it. Do I need to get it rebuilt? L.Rose First, clean the area so you can determine what is leaking. You can smell the oil and see if it is diesel fuel, power steering fluid, or engine oil. It is fairly common for the VE pumps to develop leaks due to age and the changes in diesel fuel formulation due to emissions requirements. A Bosch pump shop can change the seals, with or without a rebuild. I recommend changing all the seals if one is leaking. The VE pump is not as easy for a novice to remove as it looks, so iyou may want to get a quote on the whole job from the shop. Joe Donnelly KILLER DOWEL PIN I have a First Generation Turbo diesel with 241,000 miles on it. I was told by the previous owner that as far as he knew the killer dowel pin had never been retained. What should I do? ESteiger TST Products offers a complete kit to tab the dowel pin into place. The kit has complete instructions and the job is not too difficult.
Outside surface of rotor.
BHerring
While you have the gear cover off of the engine, be sure to remove the four mounting bolts that you can reach directly. Two are behind “windows” in the cam gear, one is next to the dowel pin, and one is above the gear-driven oil pump. The fifth bolt is below the two behind the cam gear and also behind the gear, but offset outwards so you will have to heat and bend an open-end 10 mm wrench so it can reach in there and tighten that bolt. The other four will get cleaned with solvent, as will the holes (I recommend Mopar non chlorinated brake cleaner as it evaporates much better than other brands). Then, blue Loctite the bolts and torque to 18-22 ft-lb. Factory recommendation is 18, but I like a bit more. On the First Generation Turbo diesels, and second Generations up to 1996, there is no sealer on the threads and the bolts can vibrate out. If the washer head gets between gear teeth, you can break the block, etc. So, this problem can be much worse than the dowel pin that is too big to get between teeth and just breaks the gear case. Joe Donnelly
Inside surface of rotor.
Yes, it’s normal. On the inside of the rotor, there is no extension of the braking surface or obstruction beyond the inner area of the rotor that would interfere with the location of the caliper. On the outer side of the rotor the braking surface has been machined beyond the area used by the pads so as not to interfere with the mounting of the caliper. Give it a little more time and you will have full outside contact. B.G. Smith, Port Neches, TX
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So, this problem can be much worse than the dowel pin that is too big to get between teeth and just breaks the gear case.
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Coverage of the ’94 to ’98 Model Trucks (12-valve engines). Web Site Correspondence Edited by Bill Stockard and additional Q&A by Joe Donnelly RECURRING DIAGNOSTIC CODE P1389 I have a recurring diagnostic code P1389. I checked the relays and no problems were found. The tachometer and voltmeter are working. Could it be caused by a defective electrical connector? Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how was it repaired? WBaum It is an erroneous code in most cases. Bob4x4, Riverside, CA If the tachometer and voltmeter are working, the powertrain control module (PCM) is receiving a signal from the automatic shutdown relay (ASD). There is probably an electronic “bug” in the PCM. Checking the connections at the PCM might help, but I wouldn’t worry about it. Missouri Mule, Winter Park, FL
To adjust the PVC size, cut it nearly in half. Cut two notches in the end 2 or 3-inches deep and 180 degrees apart. Using a hose clamp on the split end, the inside diameter can be adjusted. Depending how much adjustment is needed, increase the “splits” from 2 to 4, 6, 8-inches, etc. kenny61, NY The installation depth for the front crank seal is not critical. Install it so it runs on a good place. Joe G., Eureka, CA The Dremel tool took about five minutes to cut the wear ring. I fashioned an installation tool out of 2-inch PVC and a connector.
I checked the connections at the grid heater relays under driver side battery and cleaned the corrosion on all four bullet connectors and looked for others. The engine starts and runs fine. I think it could be a “bug.” WBaum FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL AND WEAR RING The front crankshaft seal on my ‘97 Turbo Diesel 3500 is leaking and needs replacement. I removed the front cover and installed the new seal and discovered the crankshaft has a previously installed wear ring. How do I remove and install a new wear ring? The service technician at the Cummins shop said he heats the old one cherry red with a torch and pries it off with a pair of screwdrivers. I don’t have an acetylene torch, and even if I did, I am afraid I might damage the temper of the crankshaft. I think I could use a Dremel cutting wheel, but I still have the problem of installing the new one. The same tech said to install the wear ring dry without lubricating the crankshaft. He said to start it by tapping it on with a 2”x4” block and finish by using the old wear ring to drive it on. If I cut the old one off, obviously I can’t use it for the installation. Any advice will be appreciated. GAmes, Killeen, TX Try a piece of PVC pipe. I often use it for driving bearings, seals, etc. I’m not sure about cutting the old wear ring with the Dremel. Be careful and don’t nick the shaft.
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Lessons learned: Don’t use the Dremel on the very top of the ring since there is no depth perception looking straight down. Cut it off about 45 degrees from the top. Place a little engine oil or grease on the inside of the ring and the outside of the shaft before driving on the new wear ring. I had the ring about half way on before I discovered this and the last half was difficult. Remove the radiator which allows more room to swing the hammer and eliminates the chance of damaging the radiator. GAmes, Killeen, TX The correct and easiest way to remove the wear ring is to strike it with a ball-peen hammer just hard enough to deform it and it will come right off with no damage. A trick I learned while working on big rigs. Bob4x4, Riverside, CA
12-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFTS ERRATICALLY
LITTLE POWER GAIN WITH TST KIT?
I recently had the automatic transmission overhauled in my ‘96 Turbo Diesel. The transmission is erratically downshifting out of Overdrive during cold weather when the coolant and transmission fluid is cold. The transmission will shift automatically from Overdrive to 3rd gear and cycle back to Overdrive at five second intervals. Sometimes, it will shift into 2nd gear. When it eventually quits the erratic shifting and stays in Overdrive, it will stay in Overdrive for 10 to 30 minutes, and begins down shifting from Overdrive into 3rd gear over again.
I followed the directions for installing the TST Power Kit in my 1998 Turbo Diesel. It seems like the engine has only a little more power, but still only 18-19psi of boost, the same as stock. Maximum EGT is at 1000 degrees. From what I’ve read about this kit, I was expecting maximum boost to be around 30psi. Mark at TST suggested that the lift pump may not be providing enough fuel pressure. I wonder if it has something to do with the wastegate control system. RHestand
While I was on a long trip towing a trailer with the ambient air temperature around 30°, I temporarily draped a towel over the transmission cooler which brought the transmission temperature up to 150° and the transmission operated normally. Could the transmission temperature sensor cause this problem? Turbo_Bob, Victorville, CA
Make sure you installed the new torque plate in the stock position, not all the way back. Even if you had, you should make more power and boost. Be sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is lifting the pump arm all the way. Make sure there are no boost leaks at the connecting hoses, and that the plastic boost line from the head to the back of the AFC housing is in good condition. Otherwise, your fuel transfer (lift) pump may not be delivering enough fuel for you to get the added power. TST offers a special fitting that replaces the bleeder screw on the top of the fuel filter housing and has a 1/8” NPT port to attach a pressure gauge for testing of the fuel supply system. Joe Donnelly
There are several things to check: • Transmission temperature sensor located in metal cooler line near transmission. It can be eliminated using a 1K ohm resistor available at Radio Shack for under $5 • Brake pedal bumping into brake light switch. Adjust switch. • Throttle position sensor (TPS). Replacement is available from the dealer for around $120. • Engine speed sensor (ESS). Replacement is available from the dealer for about $78. A faulty ESS causes other problems such as an inoperative tachometer, alternator, Overdrive, and cruise control. robbiesworld The problem was solved after I found a corroded connection at the transmission temperature sensor. I removed the wire harness cleaned the connections, reconnected it, and the transmission performs great. Turbo_Bob, Victorville, CA GAUGES AND ACCESSORIES INOPERATIVE I recently replaced the cylinder head on my ‘96 Turbo diesel and the tachometer, speedometer, heater fan motor, and engine temperature sensor are inoperative and the transmission will not shift into Overdrive. There is an extra wire harness containing a tan/black wire and a black/light blue wire. Where should that harness connect? edgeman, Marquette, MI Check the engine speed sensor (ESS) or crankshaft sensor. It is located top center above the crankshaft damper. Also there is a connector in the ESS harness on front/top of the engine which is almost hidden by the upper radiator hose. Bob4x4, Riverside, CA I found that a 10-amp fuse in the fuse panel for the engine was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything works again. I also found a defective fuel shutdown relay which had shorted and blown the fuse. Thanks for your advice. edgeman, Marquette, MI
INSTALLING PLUNGERS AND BARRELS IN THE P7100 INJECTION PUMP I just got a new set of plungers and barrels for my Bosch P7100 injection pump and need to find the procedure to replace them. ColbyG This is not a procedure that you can do at home. You need special tools and calibration equipment. The plungers are attached to roller lifters with very strong springs that hold the lifters to the camshaft. Special tools are used to replace the plungers and barrels. After that is done, the fueling has to be calibrated so each cylinder gets the same amount of fuel for a smooth idle, and generally smooth running. Get a good, authorized Bosch injection pump shop to install the parts for you. See the Association of Diesel Specialist advertisement on page 71 for a Bosch shop near you. Joe Donnelly RECOMMENDED IMPROVEMENTS FOR MY USED TRUCK I recently bought a used 1997 Turbo Diesel with automatic transmission. I plan on using it as a daily driver and tow rig. Do you have any suggestions to make it better? Charles Long (Maxter119) First, contain the killer dowel pin inside the gear case using the kit from TST Products or a similar method. This issue has been covered many times, for example in TDR Issue 58, page 28, Issue 57, page 64, and Issue 40, page 56. Virtually all 12-valve exhaust manifolds have shrunk to the point that they are bending the mounting bolts. An ear of the head can break off, causing great expense, so you should get a three-piece aftermarket exhaust manifold. BD Power and ATS are two sources. Next, probably the most cost effective power adder is the TST Power Kit. Beyond that, you will need to consider aftermarket transmission improvements before adding even more power. Joe Donnelly TDR 64
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12-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued HOW TO TELL IF THE DOWEL PIN HAS BEEN FIXED
BENEFITS OF A LARGER TURBINE HOUSING?
Is there an easy way to check if your truck already had a KDP prevention kit installed? Also, will a 1997 Cummins 215hp engine make 300hp with just a #10 TST Power Kit? Wayde
I have a 1997 Turbo Diesel, 215hp, with a TST #11 Power Kit, and have set the injection timing at 15.5 degrees. I occasionally tow up to 13,000 pounds. According to my gauge, EGT has not been a problem. I’m not interested in high horsepower and do not want to hurt fuel economy. Would changing to a 16 cm2 turbine housing give me any significant benefits in performance, fuel mileage, or EGT? Robert Smith
No check is absolute, but two indications would be these: if the gear case is bare aluminum, it has probably been replaced with a new gear case that has a retaining ring to contain the dowel pin. If the stamped steel gear case cover has a lot of RTV sealer showing at the edges, it has probably been removed and resealed. The factory used no RTV in that year on the gear case side of the gasket, and a minimal amount on the cover side. Less than 1% of Turbo Diesel owners are TDR members, and while most TDR members know about the dowel pin issue, most non-members do not, unless their pin came out and broke the gear case. Assuming your truck is a federal engine (not California EGR equipped), it has the 215hp rating and the TST #11 torque plate will give about 280hp with the stock turbo, and about 300 if you replace the stock 12 cm2 turbine housing with a 16 cm2 housing. You will need the bigger housing or a bigger turbo to keep EGT’s in check with any more power than that. The #10 will give about 350hp and 860 ft-lb torque, far too much for a stock clutch. Joe Donnelly SETTING INJECTION TIMING WHEN REPLACING PUMP I am performing repairs on a friend’s 1998 215hp Turbo Diesel, which included cam and timing case removal. The gear marks are all at TDC, but how can I set the P7100 pump timing? MRose Turn the engine to be at #1 firing TDC, where the gear case/engine black plastic timing pin goes into the cam gear. Then you can remove the P7100 shaft nut, pop the gear off again, and turn the injection pump shaft until the nylon timing fork (under the big hex nut on the driver’s side of the P pump) fits smoothly over the blade inside the pump hole. This will get you within ½ degree of stock timing. Be sure to turn that timing fork so the steel pin end points inward so the pump will turn, after you check the pump timing. Clean the taper fit for the gear with Mopar non-chlorinated brake cleaner. That is a good enough approximation to stock timing, until you can get it timed just where you want it with the proper tools. See TDR Issue 61, page 102. Joe Donnelly DO I NEED THE HEAVY DUTY VALVE SPRINGS? When should you use the heavy duty valve springs, besides when you have an exhaust brake? AWard Use of the Cummins heavier valve springs was originally intended for engines with exhaust brakes, as you noted. They became popular for higher rpm 12-valve engines after I found the horsepower curve to get “ragged” over 3200 rpm when I was testing governor spring setups about ten years ago. Flat spring dampers in the valve springs would also help a lot in reducing spring harmonics. Gassers have used them for many decades. Joe Donnelly
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The larger turbine housing would save 100-200 degrees of EGT under full power. Running EGT would be a bit higher under moderate power because you are building less boost in those situations. Peak power should be a bit higher; mileage might be a bit better but these are modest effects. Your pyrometer probe should be in the exhaust manifold to give you accurate readings of actual EGT. Post turbo readings are unreliable at high boosts, even if you correct them by ten degrees per p.s.i. of boost. Joe Donnelly HOW TO MAKE 600 HORSEPOWER What is needed for a 12-valve turbo Diesel to make 600hp with reliability? Do I need to replace internal engine components? What do I need to do to the cylinder head? Oldbluef250 I made 600+hp on the dyno back in March 2001. Basically, I used a single large turbo (HX55, but much better turbos are available now), self-ported head, a camshaft I developed with Diesel Dynamics, 215hp version of the P7100 pump with modifications to the torque plate and AFC, Diesel Dynamics injectors (extrude honed 370 marine injectors), and advanced timing (18 degrees). I used slightly larger injection lines (.080” ID). The short block was stock and held up just fine. Lift pump and feed lines were stock. Joe Donnelly NEED PART NUMBER I pulled the #1 delivery valve out of my P7100 pump to do my timing, however the green O-ring delivery valve seal is slightly torn. Does anyone have the part number? BSchwarzli Get the green O-ring for the pump delivery valve holder from a Bosch fuel injection shop; the part number is 2 410 210 033. Joe Donnelly SELECTING A TORQUE PLATE I plan on adding 191 delivery valves, 4000 rpm governor spring kit, and bigger injectors in the future to my 1995 Turbo Diesel. Which TST torque plate will work the best? Are the #10 and #100 recommended for my 175hp fuel pump? DSoutherland The 10 and 100 are primarily for the 215hp injection pump. For a 1995 engine’s pump, the TST #4 is fine for maximum fueling. Joe Donnelly
12-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued REMOVING CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR I am changing the gear case because it was broken by the “killer dowel pin.” How can I separate the cam gear from the cam. I would rather not pull the cam. Mike Barnea I would not try to remove and replace the cam gear with the cam in the engine. If the cam goes into the engine a bit too far, it will push out the cup plug at the rear into the bell housing area, making for a big oil leak and a loose part to deal with. If you don’t heat the gear a lot, it will not slide into place on the cam nose. If you heat it over 350° the webs between the inner hub and outer ring with the teeth will crack. It is work to pull the camshaft out of the engine, but necessary. Grind a chamfer on the ends of 1/2” x 12” wooden dowels, andcut a slit about 1/2” deep with a hacksaw with the grain of the wood. Drive them into the tops of the lifters by tapping with a hammer, and retain them with wooden clothes pins. Make sure they are held snugly so the lifters can’t fall out. After you get them up and pull the cam (there is a retainer held with two 13 mm head bolts behind the cam gear), replace the cam with a 30” length of 2” exhaust pipe so if a lifter falls, it can’t go anywhere. For access to the #5 and #6 cylinders, you don’t need to pull the plastic cowl cover, just the rubber caps in the cowl just above those cylinders. There are holes punched in the insulation, and the caps are oval shaped. Those holes are included so you have access to pull the head bolts and pushrods up into the wiper arm area and then back down at an angle to remove them.
I doubt there are enough of the threads left to tap and reuse the stock stud, which should be M10 x 1.5 thread. It is actually a bolt with the head spot welded to the frame crossmember. I would knock the spot welded bolt out, and replace it with a new bolt that has a plate/strap welded (or threaded with red Loc-tite) to the head so it will quit turning when the strap hits the side of the U-shaped crossmember. I had a bad fuel tank mounting stud on my 1997 truck, but in my case the spot weld had broken. There’s enough clearance between the cross member and the bed to remove the old bolt and get a new one with a strap on it into the cross member. Joe Donnelly SLOW SPOOL-UP WITH NEW TURBO With the HX35/14 turbo, my 1995 Turbo Diesel with a 215hp injection pump ran very well. I installed a Schwitzer S300 turbo, and now spool-up is slow and the engine easily reaches 1400+ degrees. TMassey There are a lot of different size S300 turbos. If you have a larger one and/or a relatively large (internally) exhaust housing, it will be slow to spool up, as you have noted. A smaller exhaust housing may help spool the turbo, as will bigger injectors. Joe Donnelly
As another responder noted, it helps a lot to bolt an “extension” to the camshaft for leverage in removing and replacing it. I made one in 2001 when I started camshaft development. It is a 2.5 foot length of pipe with a nut welded to one end. I use a short piece of 1/2x13 stud, and a heavy steel plate shaped to fit behind one of the windows in the cam gear, threaded 1/2x13. A heavy, large washer goes between the nut and the cam gear. The washer and plate “sandwich” the cam gear and the pipe gives the length needed for leverage. By the way, there is a cam bearing in the block at #1, but the other journals in the block are bare iron. You want to pull the cam straight so you don’t nick anything. Also, if you are not at TDC, a connecting rod can get in the way of pulling the cam. Pulling the lift pump out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch is enough. Be careful if you fully remove the lift pump that you don’t pull the drive rod out of the pump; it is retained pretty well with an O-ring seal. Usually the lift pump gasket to bracket and bracket to block don’t tear and can be reused. I hold the pump out with a piece of wood and the flexing of the fuel lines hold it in place. Also, check the gear teeth closely for cracks from the dowel pin “riding” on the gears. Joe Donnelly FUEL TANK STRAP STUD STRIPPED One of the crossmember studs that holds the fuel tank strap is stripped on my 1997 Turbo Diesel. The nut would not tighten. Can this stud be removed or repaired? Dave M
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Coverage of the ’98.5 to ‘02 Model Trucks (24-valve engines). Web Site Correspondence Edited by Bill Stockard and additional Q&A by Joe Donnelly DEFECTIVE FUEL LINE CHECK VALVE I read in TDR Issue 62, page 25, that long engine crank cycles could be caused by a defective check valve in the return fuel line. I have a similar problem on my ‘99 Turbo Diesel 2500. Where is this check valve located and is it repairable or must it be replaced? Rattler, Crofton, KY The valve is inside the overflow valve. It looks like a banjo bolt. It is located in front of the fuel line into the injection pump. I don’t think it can be repaired, but it only takes about five minutes to replace. Also check for leaking O-rings between the fuel lines and the injectors or the gaskets in the fuel return line at the three way connection. KevinSmith, Winnemucca, NV I cleaned the check valve but it didn’t help. However, I found the problem. The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) would not create a signal during a start attempt, causing the engine control module (ECM) to fail to turn on the Bosch VP-44 injection pump. With no signal during cranking, no codes were set because the ECM didn’t know the crankshaft was rotating. I looked at the wiring diagrams and description in the factory service manual which indicated the CPS wasn’t functioning correctly. The replacement CPS cost $35 and the engine starts great. jdross440, Jacksonville, AR ENGINE BLOCK HEATER The engine block heater in my Turbo Diesel doesn’t work. I checked continuity and there was none. I assume it’s time to replace it. I found a heater assembly that costs $120. Is this about right? tolmsted, Denver & Summit County, CO Were you checking continuity through the prongs on the plug or directly at the element? I have seen the plug come disconnected from the element and have also seen corrosion in the plug. It is extremely rare for the element to fail. Check continuity of the cord while it is unplugged from the heater. I have seen the cord fail and it costs less to replace it. Also the female connectors in the cord end become spread out and do not make good contact. blacksheepdiesel, Vincennes, IN
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I have had the same problem. I replaced the cord end and the heater has worked for the last four years. Desperado, Moscow, ID Check the cord. The outside of my cord looked fine without any visible damage. When I cut the plug off with a side cutter, the wires had completely eroded away, and where I found wire, it was green and black from corrosion. I cut two feet off the factory heater cord back to a good conductor. I bought a short outdoor extension cord and spliced it to the factory cord with weatherproof connectors which cost less than $8. BeefDoc, Southwest MN I recently had a mechanic replace both the cord and heating element on my ‘02 Turbo Diesel. The replacement heating element was about $91 and the power cord was about $43 and labor about $91,for a total cost of $240. I also live in Denver and had the work done at Diesels Only located on Alameda Ave about two blocks west of I-25 (303-778-6511). Holzman TRANSMISSION FLUID LOSS I have a mysterious automatic transmission leak on my ‘01 Turbo Diesel. The transmission wouldn’t shift in 1st and 2nd gear. I checked the fluid. It was low and I added 1/2-quart and it shifted fine. I checked the fluid level two days later and it was 1/2-quart low again. There are no leaks on the ground. Coolant level and conditions haven’t changed. I checked transfer case fluid level and it is at the proper level. Where did the transmission fluid go if I have no leaks? I check the transmission fluid when the transmission is warm, engine idling, in Neutral, and parked on level ground. GHerrmann, Ft. Collins, CO I had a leaking line to the transmission cooler that had rubbed on the frame. I could not see it since it only leaked when the truck was moving. Check your cooler lines at the cross member beside the starter. DFerverda, Northern Indiana I had that same leak and I thought it was an oil leak, since it only dripped while driving. The two cooler lines run close together over front cross member on four-wheel drive trucks and it wore a pin hole. Since it is freezing weather, I spliced a temporary repair. I plan to install the two new replacement lines inside a protective shield. monkeyman, North of Chicago
24-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued FUEL LEAK AT FUEL FILTER
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
A fuel leak has developed at the fuel filter canister on my ‘98 Turbo Diesel 2500 4X4 and it appears that this is a relatively common problem. A direct replacement fuel filter canister is no longer available and the solutions range from replacing the factory canister, to aftermarket system like the FASS for about $600, to a retrofit kit from Dodge for about $1,100.
The engine oil pressure sending unit in my truck needs replacement. The Dodge dealer wanted $230 for the sending unit. I read on the TDR web site about using the Cummins part number 4921511 sending unit. Has anyone used this sending unit and is it a simple project? TBohrer, Pleasant Plains, IL
This is a repair that costs about $6 I found while working with a Fleetguard technician. He has done the repair several times and it has been successful:
If you provide the local Cummins dealer the information on the Engine Data Plate, they can hand you a new sending unit and it is simply removing the old one and installing the new one. A reflash of the computer isn’t required.
Purchase the following parts: 4 Dodge part number 5016555AB banjo bolt washers 1 Number 10 air conditioner O-ring from an auto supply store (must be green in color). Do not use a regular O-ring since it will eventually deteriorate in the presence of diesel fuel. 1 Fuel filter (as needed) 1. Disconnect the water-in-fuel sensor and fuel heater electrical harnesses at the filter assembly. 2. Remove the two banjo bolts for the fuel-in and fuel-out lines and discard the old seal washers. 3. Remove the two bolts that attach the filter housing to the manifold. 4. Lift the entire filter canister assembly from the truck and place it on a work bench. 5. On the bench, separate the head from the lower section. Change the fuel filter as needed. Remove the three Torx-type screws that hold in the fuel heater into the head, and press the wire lead package out towards the inside. (The old brittle and cracked O-ring fell apart when I removed the heater.) 6. Either cut the two heater wires or remove the pins from the wiring connector. (Make sure to remember polarity. I suggest marking the connector and wires so they can be put back in the same spot.) If the wires are cut, the splice will have to be soldered insulated and sealed with heat shrink tubing. 7. Where the two wires go through the filter head, re-seal them with the green air conditioner O-ring. 8. Reassemble the canister and solder or replace the heater leads. 9. Reinstall the canister and re-connect the fuel lines using the new sealing washers on the banjo bolts. I also suggest using the lift pump to help remove as much air as possible in the system prior to starting. While the lift pump is running, and with the engine off, loosen the fuel pressure tap plug closest to the front of the engine to bleed the air. Tighten when fuel begins to flow out the port. The combination of priming the filter housing with diesel, and bleeding with the lift pump should make starting the engine much easier. larryq, Oklahoma City, OK
The reflash of the computer makes the sender a switch. The gauge no longer shows actual oil pressure. It only shows the presence of oil pressure similar to the Third Generation trucks. steved, Shoemakersville, PA I replaced the sending unit on my ‘01 Turbo Diesel and the gauge began working normally. The only difficulty was locating a six point 1 1/16-inch deep socket to tighten the new sensor. The sending unit is under the fuel filter and it required a six point 1 1/4-inch deep socket to remove. TBohrer, Pleasant Plains, IL I recently replaced the engine oil pressure sending unit in my ‘01 Turbo Diesel and the gauge works perfectly. I confirm that the Cummins part number 4921511 oil pressure sending unit is available from Cummins, is a direct replacement, and does not require a reflash or any adaptation to work correctly. Here is a photo of the packaging:
I recently replaced the engine oil pressure sending unit in my ‘01 Turbo Diesel and the gauge works perfectly. Removing the factory sending unit requires a 1 1/4-inch deep socket, or it can be easily removed with a 1 1/4-inch open end wrench if the engine control module (ECM) is removed. The new sending unit requires a 1 1/16-inch deep socket. The cost for the Cummins part number 4921511 was $79. The same Mopar unit from the Dodge dealer was listed at $217. jgillott, Connellsville, PA I am not sure about earlier models, but the factory service manual for my ‘02 Turbo Diesel states that the oil pressure gauge is nothing but a switch. Engine oil pressure over 8psi activates the gauge, and gauge readings are engine control module (ECM) driven based upon engine rpm, oil pressure, coolant temperature, etc., and not representative of the actual pressure. The gauge is only an indicator of actual engine oil pressure of 8psi or more. PVanderlugt Editor’s Note: For more information on the replacement three prong engine oil pressure sending unit, TDR Issue 58, page 30.
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24-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued NV5600 TRANSMISSION VENT
TURBO UPGRADE ADVICE
Where is the NV5600 six-speed transmission vented? Or is it vented at all? darkhorse, WI
I need advice on turbo upgrades for my 2002 Turbo Diesel, 235hp, five-speed. I am using it for heavy towing (25-38,000 pounds gross). I plan on installing DDP 75 hp injectors, a Smarty, and a stronger clutch in addition to the aftermarket lift pump system.
The vent is located on the top of the transmission case. It can be seen and accessed from the right or passenger side. Reach up and lift the vent cap, which should raise up about a 1/4-inch. It is pressure actuated. The cap rises and releases the pressure when the pressure in transmission exceeds the weight of cap. When pressure is released, gravity closes the valve. kkreigh, Columbia, MO
Your best bet is to select a reputable, knowledgeable turbo vendor and then take their advice whether selecting a single turbo or compound turbos.
RADIATOR REPLACEMENT QUESTIONS I am replacing the radiator on my ‘99 Turbo Diesel and I am unable to remove the coolant overflow and windshield washer fluid bottles. How do I remove them? Also, is it necessary to remove the fan shroud? Does it come off at the bottom? Do I need to remove the fan as well? What is the easiest way to remove the bottom radiator hose? VHolloway, West Palm Beach, FL I removed my radiator recently. At the middle section of the bottles, between bottle and shroud, there are two dimples made into the plastic bottles that lock into the shroud. I wedged a small chisel right above the holes just enough to separate the shroud and bottle and pulled the bottle straight up. kglenn It is not necessary to remove the shroud from the truck, only from the radiator. Be careful when removing the washer tank since it is easy to break off the tiny nipple on the washer line connection or the plug on the pump. DCreed, Thompson, CT When I removed the radiator to clean it, I cut the lower hose and used a new replacement. The old hose was pretty much “welded” on. JDiehl, Dodge City, KS INJECTOR INSTALLATION I am looking for information on injector removal and installation. Roller1000 See Issue 51, page 95. Joe Donnelly
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One option is the High Tech Turbo HX35/40 hybrid, with which I can use my existing exhaust brake and exhaust system. I have heard that these turbos tend to break shafts if run over 35 psi boost. Other possibilities include the HTB2 and the BD Power Super B, both of which require a 4” exhaust. RLDunn Today there are a number of good turbochargers available, so there won’t be only one “right” decision. Only the 35/40 hybrid has the small 2.5” outlet for a 3” band clamp as required by the Second Generation Turbo Diesel elbow-mounted exhaust brake. Yes, the shaft on these Holset turbos is relatively weak, but High Tech Turbo gave you a reasonable assessment on it. If you go to a 4” exhaust, your choices are wider. You definitely will benefit from a bigger turbo, but don’t go too big because boost will be lower at normal running conditions, giving higher EGT’s. On the other hand, you want a turbo big enough to support the increased power that you will most likely be using when towing. Your best bet is to select a reputable, knowledgeable turbo vendor and then take their advice whether selecting a single turbo or compound turbos. Joe Donnelly SELECTING A HEAD GASKET I have blown the head gasket twice, once with stock head bolts, and once with ARP studs. My turbo is wastegated at 40 pounds. What do you recommend for up to 55 psi of boost? CPavlic If you are blowing the head gasket at 40 psi, most likely the surfaces are warped, were resurfaced too rough, or were not cleaned adequately. Use a 2 foot long straight edge, a machinist’s tool, not a ruler, and a 0.0015” feeler gauge to check for flatness after thoroughly cleaning the surfaces, using lacquer thinner and a scraper that holds a single edge razor blade. Be sure to mop out all the head bolt holes of coolant and oil with a hundred (no joking—there are 28 head bolt holes) Q-tips. If one is full of stuff and you screw a head bolt into it, the stuff goes all over the deck. The surfacing should be 60 microinches or smoother. If you can catch a fingernail at all when running it across the surface, the surface is too rough. It would help to upgrade the intercooler or check boost air temperature, but thousands of TDR members have run that kind of boost with stock head gaskets and have had no problems. The 12-valve head gasket is the same quality, just available in three thicknesses. It is not a direct replacement because the end near the exhaust does not adequately cover the water passages of the head that are near that edge of the head. You would have to tap them and put in pipe plugs to be sure there would be no leaks near the crimped-on aluminum tabs along the edge of the 12-valve head gasket. Just stay with the 24-valve gasket, it is a good one at your boost level. Joe Donnelly
24-VALVE ENGINES . . . . Continued BEST AIR FILTER
REMOTE PICKUP TUBE IN FUEL TANK?
What air filter system would be good with other upgrades including exhaust, 275hp injectors, and a Smarty? VicR
How do you install a remote pickup tube in the fuel tank? Do you use a sock filter at the bottom of the tube? Larry J
I covered airflow and dynamometer-measured horsepower in TDR Issue 37, page 26. Under 500hp, the stock airbox and filter were sufficient, especially if you remove the “collar” from the airbox to the fender. I have used aFe ProGuard 7 and BD Power filter systems in high horsepower applications where higher airflow is needed. There is an excellent article on air boxes and horsepower in Issue 59, page 35 and pages 130-134. Joe Donnelly
I did not use a filter because whatever would fit between the draw tube and the bottom of the tank (which is only 3/16” away) would not be much of a filter and could restrict flow. I have a Transfer Flow tank (steel), and had no difficulty mounting the tube system supplied by FASS. I removed the stock fuel pickup canister first, so I could be sure nothing got into the tank when making the hole. The FASS parts were fine, but I got a 316 stainless steel tube with 3/8” NPT fittings and cut it to the perfect length. You can find the discussion in TDR Issue 56, page 102. Joe Donnelly
CLUTCH DISC QUESTION The new clutch disc that came with a replacement kit that I ordered has five damper springs. The original equipment disc has 10 damper springs (6 in an outer ring, 4 in an inner ring). How will the two designs compare in performance and life expectancy? MAYoung The number and placement of the damper springs will affect noise, vibration, and torque capacity before the springs bottom out. Stiffness and amount of compressibility before coil bind are also important. The stock disc was designed for low noise and vibration with stock power. Many aftermarket discs are intended for engines with added power. The more you slip a clutch, the faster the disc friction material wears. Lugging the engine, extreme applications of power, and heavy use of an exhaust brake are hard on the springs and stop pins. With moderate use, the clutch can last a long time, but it is still a wear item and subject to replacement. Be sure you change the pilot bearing and throw out bearing too, as they wear out. The pilot bearing is susceptible to failure from holding the clutch pedal down at stoplights. Joe Donnelly TABBING THE KILLER DOWEL PIN Has anyone tabbed the KDP on the stepped gear case? I am removing my cover on the 2001 today to fix leaks, retorque case bolts, and tab the KDP. Who sells the stepped tab?
REPLACING THE HEATER CORE I need to replace the heater core in my ‘01 Turbo Diesel. Where was the write-up in the TDR? CHill See my column in Issue 59, page 90. Joe Donnelly UNEVEN BRAKING My truck pulls to the left when braking. Any ideas on a cure? VHolloway Different types of brake pads behave differently. The factory put a spacer behind the right front wheel of a lot of Second Generation Turbo Diesels to prevent pulling. With some aftermarket pads, the truck brakes better (straight) without it. If you’ll look at our web site, www.tdr1.com, you’ll find a 145-page “Turbo Diesel Buyer’s Guide.” In this pdf file, you’ll see that we’ve listed factory TSBs from ’94 to current. Of particular interest for this Second Generation truck is TSB 05-04-99, on page 50, which gives the dealer the 21-page proper repair technique for correcting brake and steering pull problems. Joe Donnelly
Also, can you turn the motor over (starter) for better access to the case bolts behind the gear? WSHall If your Second Generation case is stepped, it should have the restrictor ring in the dowel pin hole to prevent the pin from coming out. TST makes a kit with a front seal, etc. and a stepped tab if your case does not have the restrictor ring. The Cummins torque specification on bolts inside the case is 18 ft-lb. You can also (more safely) turn the engine over with a socket (22mm) on the alternator while the belts are on, or with the Cummins barring tool, part number 3824591. Joe Donnelly
If you’ll look at our web site, www.tdr1.com, you’ll find a 145-page “Turbo Diesel Buyer’s Guide.”
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Coverage of ’03 to ’07 Model Trucks Web Site Correspondence Edited by Bill Stockard and additional Q&A by Joe Donnelly OIL LEAKING FROM INTERCOOLER HOSE Oil is leaking from the downstream intercooler hose on my ‘03 Turbo Diesel 3500 with 123,000 miles on the odometer. I assume that this indicates the turbocharger needs a rebuild. Turbo1Ton, Broken Arrow, OK Not necessarily. Have you removed the hose to see if the oil is in fact inside it? Hopefully, it is oil from another source that is dripping off the hose. If not, trace upstream from the oil trace inside the intercooler pipes to find the source. If the turbo is defective, make sure the dealer removes and cleans the oil from the intercooler. sag2, San Francisco Bay Area I’ve taken a quick look and it does not appear to be a leak from another source. Assuming that I find oil in the intercooler and upstream hoses, at that point can I assume it is time for a rebuild? What is the best way to clean oil from the intercooler? Turbo1Ton, Broken Arrow, Oklahoma Use plenty of brake cleaner. Ducman82, Pullman, ID If using a hydrocarbon based cleaner, make sure to flush the intercooler with a water based cleaner and try to dry it before reinstalling. Any combustible residue remaining in the intercooler could cause a runaway. Hot soapy water should work just fine. The turbocharger cleaner and EGR cleaners from Mopar are both water-based. sag2, San Francisco Bay Area
My Turbo Diesel with an automatic transmission has done the same thing since it was new. This is completely normal and nothing to worry about.
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TOOLS TO REPLACE THE FCA What is the correct tool to remove the fuel control actuator (FCA) on my ‘03 Turbo Diesel’s Bosch CP3 pump? It appears to be a star screw driver, but when I attempted to turn the screw, it felt like the screw driver was going to break. Is there a tool that would work better? DBroadhead, McKinney, TX Use a T25 Torx bit with either a screwdriver style driver or 1/4-inch drive bit. jhenderson, Exeter, RI Remove the eight screws that hold the inner fender in place and the FCA and the Bosch CP3 pump are much more accessible with inner fender liner out of the way JJPage, Spokane I’ll purchase a T25 Torx bit. Thanks a lot. DBroadhead, McKinney, TX
SLOW TO SHIFT TRANSMISSION Recently the 48RE automatic transmission in my ‘05 Turbo Diesel 3500 (40,000 miles on the odometer) has been shifting slowly into gear. After starting the engine and placing the shift lever in Drive, it takes about 30 seconds to engage and chatters into Drive. When it does engage, it acts similar to a transmission that’s low on fluid. I took it to the dealer, but they could not replicate the problem. They checked the bands and everything looked good. I never tow more than 8,000 pounds. Lips The torque converter is draining down. When it feels sluggish when placing the shift lever in Drive, shift back into Neutral for about ten to fifteen seconds to allow the converter to fill. I’m guessing that your torque converter drain back valve may need repair. sag2, San Francisco Bay Area My Turbo Diesel with an automatic transmission has done the same thing since it was new. This is completely normal and nothing to worry about. It takes the transmission a couple of minutes to build pressure. The reason it couldn’t be replicated at the dealership is probably because the truck had been driven. Usually this happens when the engine is started in the morning after sitting all night or when the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time. As suggested above, start the engine and allow it to idle in Neutral for about 30 seconds. That should fix your problem. EArp, Austin, TX
5.9 HPCR . . . . Continued ADJUSTING THE DOORS I have an air leak at the top of the driver’s side door on my ‘05 Turbo Diesel 3500. I have added dum-dum sealant inside the door seal to take up some of the space, which helps for normal driving, but the leak is worse when my slide-in truck camper is loaded. There is still a slight gap between the upper door frame and body. When I put my hand up to the top of the door frame and squeeze with my fingers in a clamping motion, the air gap seals and it is quiet.
nuts and move the top of the door in. Make only small adjustments, go slowly, tighten, and recheck the fit.
On previous vehicles, I recall adjusting the upper part of the door frame where the window slides by bending this part of the door frame. It was done with the window down. I have tried this very gently, but the frame does not budge. I am concerned about using too much gusto, since I do not want to kink the door frame by going too far. Has anyone used this method to adjust the door frame to stop the air leak? fkovalski, Summit County, CO I adjusted both of my front doors by moving the top in a little bit which cured the air leaks. These doors are fairly easy to adjust, but you will need a long chisel and a hammer to break loose a washer that is glued to the hinge with an epoxy. Loosen the bolt and use the hammer and chisel to pop the washer loose. After breaking the washers loose, the door can be adjusted as necessary. I didn’t bend anything.
The lower hinge nuts may have to be loosened, but there is a good chance there is enough adjustment by only moving the top.
If I remember correctly, adjust the top and bottom of the door in and out by loosening the hinges where they attach to the door. If the bolts are loosened where the hinges attach to the door pillar, the door can be adjusted for sag. After the door is adjusted, it may be necessary to adjust the latch. I don’t remember the procedure, but the instructions are in the factory service manual. Pawpaw, Caddo Mills, TX Do not bend the window frame. Adjust it properly by moving the door on the hinges. As mentioned above, the door position is retained by the use of epoxy glue on the washers. The door adjustment is made at the factory and then epoxy is placed on the washer before the final torque is done. The epoxy dries and holds the position of the door in the event the nut becomes loose. As noted, in order to make the adjustment, loosen the nuts one at a time and smack the washer with a chisel to break it loose.
Once all the washers are loose, loosen the nuts and make the door adjustment. To move the top of the door in only adjust the top hinge first. Mark the original hinge position before adjusting with a grease pencil to mark the original starting point. Loosen the hinge to door
Do not loosen the hinge-to-body bolts as they are for adjusting the door fore and aft in the opening.
It sounds more difficult than it is. Pay attention and move slowly. Tape the door edges with several layers of masking tape before beginning work to prevent chipping the paint. Loosen the nuts only far enough to make an adjustment, and avoid moving both hinges at the same time. If required, readjust the striker last. Hold the latch open and close the door. If the latch does not drag on the top or bottom of the striker, it is adjusted correctly. Striker adjustment is the same as hinge TDR 64
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5.9 HPCR . . . . Continued adjustment. Mark striker location first and loosen only enough to move it slightly and recheck. Note: Except for the top photo, these photos are from a Minivan, but the idea is the same. The door hinge photos do not show the epoxy washer, but it is under the same nut on trucks. The washer will be stuck to the hinge when the nut is loosened. The photos are the passenger door looking forward. sag2, San Francisco Bay Area
The in-dash voltmeter is programmed to read artificially low for the first two minutes without regard to whether the current draw from the heaters is actually more than zero. The Engine Control Module (ECM) is unable to measure whether the grids are actually drawing current. Instead, it assumes that the relays and grids are working. The relays are located in front of the passenger side battery. I have attached a diagram from the 2003 Factory Service Manual that shows the parts. The green arrows are pointing to the output side of the relays.
SPECIAL TOOLS FOR INJECTOR REPLACEMENT? What tools do I need to replace the injectors on my ‘04.5 Turbo Diesel? Sweeda See TDR Issue 51, page 97. Joe Donnelly UNUSUAL STARTING BEHAVIOR My ‘04 Turbo Diesel 2500 has never given me any trouble until recently when the temperature has been in the 20’s and 30’s at night. The truck has 51,000 miles on the odometer. When I start the engine in the morning, it hasn’t been starting normally. I turn the ignition key to On and wait for the Wait-to-Start indicator light to go out and then turn the key over to Start. The engine starts almost instantly, but it sounds and feels like it is only firing on two or three cylinders and black smoke rolls out of the tail pipe. The engine will run for five to eight seconds, and then the engine will speed up slightly as if I tapped on the accelerator pedal quickly. From that point on, the engine idles smoothly. It only occurs when the air temperature is in the 30’s or below, and it is always the first start it in the morning. The engine starts normally the rest of the day. The fluid levels are normal. MMcConnell To determine if it is a cold starting problem, try plugging in the block heater for a few hours the next time the temperature is in the 20s or 30s. If it the engine starts normally, that’s an indicator of a cold weather related problem such as an inoperative heater grid. rbattelle, Dayton, OH The temperature was in the 20’s last night. I plugged in the engine block heater for about three hours before starting the engine. The engine started and ran normally. When the engine starts, I hear the relay cycling and my voltmeter reads low for the first couple of minutes. I assume that the heater grid is working correctly, but I could be wrong. Where do you check for resistance across the grids? MMcConnell I have had the same type problem with my ‘03 Turbo Diesel 2500 and occasionally the engine actually dies. I’ve learned to keep the block heater plugged in if the temperature is below 40 degrees. Where do you check the resistance on the heater grids? VolCTD, Knoxville, TN There are two heater grids, and it is possible that one is working and the other isn’t. I’d check resistance across each of the grids to see if one of them is broken, which will show infinite resistance on the Ohmmeter. I’m not sure what the correct resistance across a functioning grid should be, but I suspect it is less than 1 ohm.
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Connect an ohmmeter lead to the negative battery cable and alternatively to each post indicated by the arrow. Measuring the resistance across the heater grid circuit will indicate a failed heater grid and/or a defective wire between the relay and the grid. rbattelle, Dayton, OH I checked the resistance across both of the grids, and they checked out okay. I still have the engine cold start symptoms; however, the engine has developed another symptom. A couple of times recently, when stopped at a stop light with the engine idling, suddenly the engine sounds like it has marbles in the crankcase. It will run this way for a second or two then go back to normal. When I release the clutch to move, the engine stumbles, nearly dies, then it slightly increases speed and runs normally afterward. After researching the TDR online forum, I determined that a failing fuel control actuator (FCA) can cause similar symptoms. I replaced the FCA. With the engine was still warm, I started it, and it idled like a different truck. The engine idles smoother and the excessive engine noise is gone. I started the truck this morning and the engine started normally and idled smoothly. Problem solved, and I couldn’t be happier. MMcConnell
5.9 HPCR . . . . Continued FINDING THE BAD INJECTOR
INJECTOR WIRING
My Turbo Diesel has a lot of timing rattle noise and rough acceleration around 2000 rpm under light throttle. When slowing down, the idle drops down to 500 rpm and then recovers. Cumminsbomber21
I pulled the wiring harness off my injectors and forgot which wire goes to which post on top and which plug goes to which socket on the head. doug1810
First you may want to check the fuel control actuator (FCA) on the back of the CP3 pump. If you are “throwing parts” at the problem, that is the least expensive starting point.
The yellow or brown wire goes to the injector post closer to the intake (short) rocker. The orange or red wire goes to the injector post close to the exhaust (long) rocker. The medium length harness end that comes out first from the main harness goes to the #1,2 socket on the head, the short length at the Y-end of the harness goes to #3,4, and the long end of the harness goes to #5,6. Joe Donnelly
To check injectors, you might get lucky finding a cold cylinder by using an infrared temperature gun. Also, to check individual injectors on the 2003-05 Turbo Diesels, you could unplug one of the three electrical connectors at the head, while the engine is not running. (The wires carry up to 50 volts.) Once you see which pair of cylinders is at fault, you can remove the valve cover and remove one pair of wires at a time. Or, you could go right to the individual injector wires. You will get a trouble code, but you can use the Smarty to remove it later. Since other injectors may be “weak” the best approach would be to send all six to a Bosch shop like Dynomite Diesel for testing. They are a Bosch dealer and could sell you new injectors as needed. Obviously, unplugging the injector will serve as a diagnostic method only if the electrical solenoid is at fault. If you have a mechanical failure, you would have to plug off one injector at a time or replace one at a time. DDP could test all six for you if that would be more convenient. Joe Donnelly
REPLACE INJECTORS? My 2004 Turbo Diesel has 198,000 miles and so far no injector problems. Should I replace the injectors now, or wait until I have a problem? JEdgerton
Contact Dynomite Diesel about new genuine Bosch injectors, either stock or with their Stage 1 nozzles. They also include excellent installation instructions. You may be able to get new parts and installation for a similar cost. Contact www.dynomitediesel.com or call 866-774-3966 Joe Donnelly
Perhaps some discussion about modes of failure would be in order here. As some feel, if things are fine, you don’t need to change injectors. If you haven’t added power, the mechanical aspects will be fine for a long time. High exhaust gas temperatures and high rail pressures can cause damage. Cracks in the nozzles or bodies, and wear of the check ball and seat are two problems that can occur. On the other hand, failure of the electrical solenoid can happen any time. Whether you want to incur the cost now is up to you. I have heard of folks paying more for reconditioned injectors than what new ones can be bought for. I have heard of high costs at some shops for replacement, and have seen evidence of poor workmanship, leading to further problems. Therefore, those may be two reasons for performing preventive maintenance. You can choose the mechanic/shop and you can buy the latest, stainless steel injectors. On the other hand, you might be able to continue using your old parts for many more miles, especially if your main possible cause of failure is just the electrical one. Consider also your usage for the truck. If you take long trips through unpopulated areas, such as in the West, a failure could leave you stranded. Joe Donnelly
CHANGING INJECTORS
BETTER INJECTORS?
What is better, stock or aftermarket injectors to replace my leaking injectors? Can I replace them myself? MTapia
My ‘04 Turbo Diesel has almost 100,000 miles on it. I am planning to have the valves adjusted and injectors checked. Are there better aftermarket injectors for mileage and durability? PKnoerzer
ADVICE ON REPLACING INJECTORS My friend’s 2003 Turbo Diesel is in the shop, with two dead injectors and the other four on the way out. Should the repair job with rebuilt injectors cost $3000? CStringer
Dynomite Diesel has the Bosch injector testing equipment and gets the new stainless steel bodies when they get new injectors from Bosch. They recommend the Stage 1 over stock for performance and mileage. That is what I put into my Turbo Diesel recently. They provide complete installation instructions with color photos with their injectors. Also see TDR Issue 51, page 97, for instructions. Be sure the seating nipple ends of the connecting tubes are smooth and were seating uniformly, and that the injector line ends are also smooth and corrosion free. Joe Donnelly
I asked Dynomite Diesel the same question. On their recommendation, I got a new set of Stage 1 injectors from them (50hp) with the new tougher Bosch stainless steel bodies. I too had just turned 100,000 miles and wanted to do preventive maintenance to avoid any injector failures on the highway. Joe Donnelly
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5.9 HPCR . . . . Continued EXHAUST UPGRADE—TURBO BACK OR CAT-BACK?
SINGLE TURBOCHARGER FOR 800 HORSEPOWER
I recently purchased a 2007 Turbo Diesel and want to upgrade the exhaust. I am trying to decide on cat back or turbo back, 4” or 5.” The truck is currently stock. DWakefield
I want a big single turbo that would be suitable for 800hp and have fairly decent spool up. I have been looking at several sources including High Tech Turbo. The truck will be used for drag racing, dyno runs, and occasional weekend nights. speedyjdl
The biggest restriction in the stock exhaust system is the turbocharger. Expect very minimal gains from increasing flow capacity after the stock turbo. I would consider a larger turbo first. Don’t go overboard to a huge turbo with a near-stock Turbo Diesel, as some of that “restriction” in the turbine housing and sizing of the turbine wheel is necessary and desirable. If you had a turbo with a big outlet to mate to 5” exhaust, the most important part of the exhaust to upgrade is what is nearer to the turbo, where the gases are hottest and have the most turbulence. Joe Donnelly 5” DOWNPIPE? I don’t see very many street legal Turbo Diesels with 5” downpipes. I was wondering if there was a performance related reason for this. Is the spool-up slower and boost harder to reach with the larger downpipe? Shannon Williams Clearance is tight for a 5” downpipe and production tolerances would make it difficult to mass produce such a downpipe. The bigger the turbine wheel and the outlet flange, the more the turbo is going to benefit from a 5” downpipe. On my 1997, I found that 5” helped once the engine was over 570hp and that spool-up did not seem to be hurt at all. This effect makes sense, because once the gases have expended energy within the turbine and wheel, the faster they expand and get out of the way, the better. There is a lot of turbulence, sort of like what you see in a bathtub drain. The gases are also hottest as they come out of the turbo. These two situations mean that the biggest benefit from a 5” exhaust will be at the downpipe. Joe Donnelly TURBO RECOMMENDATON FOR 550-600 HP Has anyone had any problems with the HX40 turbo? Mine is wastegated to 40 psi. What would be good for up to 550-600hp? Rob Shipp I have blown four HX40s over the years. In no case did I run them over 40 psi boost. Generally, the shaft breaks and the wheel and shaft tear up the down pipe and go to the muffler, inside the exhaust pipe. I wouldn’t use an HX40 in a performance application, period. Of the turbos I have used, I would lean toward the High Tech 66/71 with 14 cm2 exhaust housing as a good single turbo for that power range at moderate cost. Exhaust gas temperatures will probably be high under full power, but spool-up and general performance will be good and durability will be reasonable. Joe Donnelly
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I ran a Holset HX55 when my 1997 first made 600hp in 2001. I ran Pius Eberle’s (Bell Turbo) MSB 30-1250 at 800hp. That custom turbo was a 3K compressor and center section with a custom fitted 19 cm2 turbine housing. These days, the big 71/73 High Tech Turbo would probably be what I would try first in a big single turbo for high horsepower. Otherwise, get a good set of twin turbos. The latter would be a lot more streetable, durable, and have a broader applicable power range. If you blow one single turbo, the twins would have been right in the same price range. With what I have learned over the years, I would contact BD Power for a set of compound turbos designed by John Todd. Joe Donnelly PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE? What should I do for preventive maintenance on my 2006 Turbo Diesel? I have heard of many injector problems. Do I need a better fuel filter set up? Bouma Here are some general things: • Keep exhaust gas temperatures down; I like to keep EGT under 1300 degrees even though you can get away with a bit higher. Dropping a valve seat is expensive, and that is what usually happens first after a number of high EGT “excursions.” • Change the oil regularly, using CI4+ rather than the newer spec CJ if possible. I like to change it at 4000-4500 miles. • Keep rpm down under 3000, but don’t lug the engine and drivetrain under high power below 1800 rpm. • Especially if you raise rail pressure with a “box” or program, you should improve fuel filtration; 3 microns is a good level. Otherwise, you will probably be okay with the 7 micron Fleetguard filter such as Geno’s Garage offers. I like the FASS for its reliable fuel transfer pump and good filters. Joe Donnelly NV5600 FLYWHEEL What is the maximum that can be taken off one when resurfacing a flywheel for use with the NV5600 transmission? MMeier The flywheels, five-speed and six-speed, are .002” to .008” over 1.5” thick when new. Cummins specifies that “heavy stock” not be removed. I have found that 1.490” was acceptable. If you go thinner than that, you may be able to get good service by adding a second washer under the clutch fork ball stud in the bellhousing. It would be advisable to use a Blanchard grinder, not a lathe, to resurface the flywheel. Joe Donnelly
5.9 HPCR . . . . Continued HELP NEEDED FOR INSTALLING TWIN TURBOS
ERRATIC RAIL PRESSURE
I didn’t find 12 allen-head capscrews for the exhaust manifold in the BD kit. Am I supposed to reuse factory bolts/studs and reinstall the heat shield? The manifold is not drilled on the topside for the pyrometer probe port. Also, do I have to install O-rings on either of two turbo drains that go into block? Mike Bartlett
I have a problem with my Turbo Diesel’s rail pressure jumping around. When I start my truck it will be at 5500psi and work fine for a while. At idle, it will drop to 2000 psi and come back up sometimes. I can be driving at 12,000psi and it will drop to 8000psi briefly. I tried a new FCA and the problem continued. The lift pump pressure drops from 8 psi to 0 psi and fluctuates. BMeier
Re-use the stock exhaust manifold bolts and spacers, except for the two center bolts underneath (when the manifold is installed with the outlet pointing up). The shape of the two center exhaust ports gets in the way of the stock bolts and spacers, and the BD kit comes with two Allen head bolts for those two places. Don’t use the heat shield; there will be no air inlet pipe nearby with the twin turbo setup. I drilled and tapped my manifold on the “new” topside for the pyrometer probe. Mock up the secondary turbo on the manifold to see where you can put it and have good clearance to the turbo, and be centered in a port area where several exhaust ports from the engine are merged. Most pyro probe fittings are 1/8 NPT; use an 11/32” drill. Soak the old fitting in your original exhaust manifold with rust penetrant and remove it before drilling and tapping the new manifold. I scraped all clear coat off the block holes, greased, and pressed in the turbo oil drain fittings with O-rings on them. If they are very tight, you could get away without O-rings, and maybe just use a bit of silicone RTV sealer. I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts that had studs on them with regular bolts, because I had spares. I did not clamp the heater pipe to the manifold, as I cut off that tab years ago. It is the biggest pain in replacing the exhaust manifold. You can drill the remainder of the tab, and use a strong piece of wire to help keep the heater water tube from vibrating. I prefer the 1/8 NPT over the 1/4 NPT as you don’t have to cut out so much of the manifold. Since my Turbo Diesel is an early 2004, I didn’t have to replace the rear oil drain fitting in the block. In 2004.5, Cummins went to the accordion style drain pipe and you have to install a drain stub in place of it. The OEM stub is .846” diameter below the O-ring groove, and .876” diameter above the groove, toward the retaining shoulder. The BD machined steel stub is .876” diameter, so it is a press fit and you will be fine with just a thin film of RTV sealer on it when you press it into the hole in the block. Joe Donnelly WHAT POWER ADDER FOR 2005 TURBO DIESEL? I have oversized tires, so the Edge defueling feature won’t work properly, unless I pay the dealer again to recalibrate my speedometer to stock. What other power adding options are there for me? I like to be able to change power settings on-the-fly and need gauges. Jeepr The Smarty programmer with “Power-On-Demand” can be changed on-the-fly, and can be used to check and clear trouble codes. It also can be used to change speedometer calibration for oversized tires. Another excellent choice is the TST PowerMax-CR box. The TST with the Palm computer has a lot of features, including gauges. Joe Donnelly
Is it really the rail pressure, or the gauge? In my experience, the TST gauge is very reliable, but the Pricol is very touchy. If the wires going to the gauge are near other stuff, the gauge can be erratic. Definitely don’t route the wires through a grommet in the firewall. It also needs “clean power” meaning you can’t just use a Scotchlok on any hot wire to power it. Meanwhile, be sure your lift pump produces enough fuel volume and pressure, because it could cause the CP3 pump to starve for fuel. Joe Donnelly WHICH TURBO? I have made a few upgrades and now think I need a larger turbo. Bill Weber There are several turbos that would work for a moderately upgraded engine, some biased toward drivability at lower power, some better for use at the full power you have. One discussion is in TDR Issue 54, page 128. The Super B is just a bit small for most modified Third Generation Turbo Diesels. The compressor outlet is not shaped like a Third Generation outlet, and the exhaust flange is HX40 size, smaller than stock Third Generation, so it won’t bolt up to the stock exhaust elbow. You would need a matching exhaust downpipe. Overall, it is easier to go a bit bigger, and to a turbo with the matching compressor outlet and exhaust flange, something like the High Tech Turbo with 62 compressor-65 exhaust-12 cm2 housing at a minimum. Joe Donnelly WHICH BRAKE PADS? What front brake pads are good for a 2005 Turbo Diesel? Rick DTC503 Some brands of pads wear the rotors fast, and some give a lot of “squeal.” I chose Mopar pads. They performed well for me, so I didn’t see any reason to try another brand. Joe Donnelly PRESSURE OR TIMING? How can I tell if a power box adds pressure or timing? Cksh8me If an external box doesn’t have a harness connection to the rail pressure sender, it doesn’t add pressure. If it doesn’t have a harness connection to the crank and cam sensors, it can’t add much, if any, timing. Of course the Smarty programmer can do both, but it works inside the ECM unlike external boxes. Joe Donnelly TDR 64
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Coverage of the ’07.5 to current Model Trucks. Web Site Correspondence Edited by Bill Stockard WIRING TRAILER RECEPTACLE There’s no factory installed trailer wiring receptacle on my ’08 Turbo Diesel Chassis/Cab. The brake controller plug is located under the dash, but what do I need to make up the connection to the big round 7-pin trailer electric cord? machinemover, AZ At the rear of the truck, there is the bundle of wires for the 7-pin trailer plug. You will need a 7-pin receptacle and a mounting bracket for it. Use the Dodge Body Builder’s website: http://www.dodge.com/ bodybuilder/200...crrcircdef.pdf which shows the wire colors and their functions coming from the truck. Go to this web site to get the wiring diagram for the 7-pin trailer receptacle: http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram. htm. Scroll about half way down the page which shows the tow vehicle side of the 7-pin connector and gives each pin’s function. Notice the location of the notch in the plug in the diagram. FATCAT, Barrington, NH That was a bit of a hassle since nobody uses a standard wire color, but I got it done. Thanks machinemover, AZ NEW TRUCK QUESTIONS I am thinking of trading in my ‘03 Turbo Diesel 2500 for a new truck and am wondering about a new 6.7-liter engine. Also, I would like to know more about the new six-speed automatic transmission compared to the manual six-speed transmission. rhino_50, Elizabethtown, PA The 6.7-liter engine is very quiet and has stump-pulling torque, the transmission and cab are wonderful, and it is by far the best overall Turbo Diesel I’ve ever owned. For comfort and towing, the new trucks are light-years ahead. When towing, the six-speed automatic transmission works very well with the engine and always seems to find the perfect gear. If the shifting logic doesn’t pick the right gear to suit the driver, it can be manually shifted to the suitable gear. However, the shift points seem to work well with the engine’s torque. The integrated exhaust brake is very effective and driving with it on saves service brake wear.
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On the downside, it is not a great choice for a daily commuter. If the engine is not worked hard, there could be issues involving the emissions system. It will not have the fuel economy of your ‘03 Turbo Diesel and similarly equipped trucks will suffer a 1-2 mpg fuel penalty. The 6.7-liter engine is a sophisticated, electronically controlled engine and isn’t very “shade tree mechanic friendly”. My 6.7-liter gets about 10 mpg towing a 16,000-pound fifth-wheel trailer. Driving without the trailer, I get around 16 mpg at 65 mph highway driving, 13-14 mpg city, and 14-15 mpg city/highway combined hand calculated. The overhead display usually displays about 1-mpg more than actual. jimnance, OR I also own a ‘03 Turbo Diesel and am considering buying a ‘08 before the end of the year. Is the engine oil and filter change similar to the 5.9-liter? What is the engine oil capacity on the 6.7-liter? kmcdonough, Long Island, NY The oil changes are similar to the 5.9-liter and capacity is the same, 12 quarts including filter. dlmetzger, Cocoa, FL CYCLE THE KEY FOR CODES FEATURE On my previously owned ‘01 Turbo diesel I could cycle the ignition key several times and the engine fault codes would appear in the odometer section of the instrument panel. My dealer tells me that the ‘07.5 and later trucks equipped with the 6.7-liter Turbo Diesel do not have this feature. I tried cycling the ignition key several times without success. My check engine light has come on 15 times in the last 5000 miles. The engine runs fine and the one time I returned to the dealer, they told me it was a false code. Shleets, Southern CA I too had heard that the new trucks wouldn’t display the code by cycling the ignition key, but I tried it. On two occasions I got the same code the dealer read off the code reader. I used the same cycling the ignition key method as I used on my former ‘01 Turbo Diesel. Larry Willard, Frederick MD Your dealer has the same misunderstanding as a few early 6.7-liter owners on the TDR forum. The new trucks will display the codes just like the earlier ones did. The ignition switch must be turned from off to on to off quickly, three times in succession. HBarlow, Texas South Plains Editor’s Note: See the complete discussion on 6.7-liter codes starting on page 47.
6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued CHECK ENGINE LIGHT Recently while towing my fifth-wheel trailer with my ‘08 Turbo Diesel 3500, the check engine light came on. I cycled the ignition key and Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P042e appeared. I pulled into an Advance Auto Parts store and their code reader showed the same code with text reading “secondary emission control.” I had them clear the code and drove about 400 miles home without the check engine light or code re-appearing. What is this code in reference to? Larry Willard, Frederick MD DTC P042E is Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) control stuck open. The dealer service tech should clean the EGR valve and it should fix it. The EGR valve contains excess soot which is not allowing it to close completely. Drdorian If the EGR is stuck open, it will really build up the soot. Have the dealer service tech clean the EGR, then lay it on its back side and fill one chamber with the water based EGR cleaner. If the cleaner comes out any other port, it is leaking and should be replaced. sag2, San Francisco Bay Area ENGINE HESITATION/STUTTER When I decelerate my ‘07 Turbo Diesel 3500 in 4th gear allowing the engine speed to drop to 1900 rpm, the engine hesitates or stutters. I hear the drive shaft banging like I’m popping the clutch in and out. It goes away if I decease or increase the pressure on the accelerator pedal. Also the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0401 has appeared and I think it is exhaust gas recirculation. I have had the G30 and other updates completed which included some new sensors, software patches, and the fiberglass exhaust wrap around the pipe and sensor. AZRedneck When diagnosing DTC P040, this fault code is specifically related to fouled EGR coolers and not EGR valves. The proper repair practice should be to clean the EGR cooler and perform the appropriate diagnostics per the diagnostic tree. If there are other faults related to the EGR valve, then that should drive EGR valve cleaning in addition to cooler cleaning. Bob4x4, Riverside, CA The warranty work is completed. It involved EGR cleaning, new valve and unknown sensors. The hesitation and stutter are gone. AZRedneck TOW/HAUL When towing a 10,000-pound load with the transmission in Tow/Haul, does my ‘08 Turbo Diesel 5500 Chassis/Cab shift into 6th gear? Does the engine speed remain the same when not in Tow/Haul? DaveNelson No. Tow/Haul mode locks out 6th gear. Tow/Haul is 5th gear or first overdrive. Your Owner’s Manual will give you all of the details regarding Tow/Haul switch usage. HBarlow, Texas South Plains
Is the 6th gear overdrive lockout feature in Tow/Haul only on the Chassis/Cab? My ‘07.5 Turbo Diesel 3500 will shift into 6th gear in Tow/Haul. KEpperly Yes, only the Chassis/Cab models equipped with the Aisin automatic transmission lock out 6th gear when in Tow/Haul mode. The pickup truck models equipped with the Chrysler 68RFE automatic transmission will shift into 6th gear when in Tow/Haul mode. mpaulson, Devon, AB CCV FILTER The overhead display shows to service the closed crankcase ventilation (CCV) filter on my ‘07.5 Turbo Diesel 3500 with 23,300 miles on the odometer. I checked dealer inventory and none of the dealers within 100 miles stock it. I have one on order for $14.00 and it appears easy to replace. The Owner’s Manual is very vague about a service interval and advises one to see the dealer. The dealer said the Factory Service Manual says to replace it every 24 months. Has anyone replaced the CCV filter? jmorse, Campbell, NY My Factory Service Manual says to replace it at 60,000 miles. MACHINEST If I replaced the CCV filter or if the truck doesn’t have 60,000 miles on it, how do I reset the overhead display? Coalsmoke Check your Owner’s Manual for instructions. 1. Ignition On (don’t start) 2. Depress brake pedal two times 3. Depress the accelerator pedal two times slowly within 10 seconds 4. Turn ignition to Off-Lock position If it didn’t take, try again. MACHINEST If the CCV failed before the recommended service interval, I believe it could be covered under Emissions Warranty. Your dealer can run the part number with your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) to verify very quickly. Bob4x4, Riverside, CA A couple of things to think about concerning the CCV filter and air filter: 1. If the CCV filter isn’t replaced when suggested, oil mist could be sucked into the turbocharger and could eventually clog the intercooler. 2. If the air filter isn’t serviced regularly, the engine/turbocharger will suck air from somewhere, and in this case, it’s the crankcase and this will eventually clog the intercooler. The line from the CCV filter enters into the clean air intake directly in front of the turbocharger. EB, Edna, TX
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued 6.7 HPCR BASICS—CHANGING THE CCV FILTER The TDR’s members and the automotive industry are infamous in their use of acronyms. What is a CCV?
• With a large flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the CCV filter up and off.
Crankcase vent. I’ll bet you did not know that there was a CCV filter on your 6.7-liter engine. It sits on top of the valve cover and, from what looks like last minute entry in my ’07.5 Owners Manual, it requires inspection and/or changing every 67,500 miles. Furthermore, should the crankcase vent system become clogged there are diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs for the uninitiated) that will be set causing a malfunction indicator light (MIL for the initiated) to come on. Specifically the DTCs for CCV problems are: P1507 crankcase filter restriction; P1508 crankcase filter restriction— replaces filter. If these codes are set the “Perform Service” message will illuminate on the overhead display.
• Upon inspection of the CCV filter, you’ll see that it has two O-rings and a reusable V-gasket that effectively seal the filter in place.
Likewise, at the 67,500 mile interval the “Perform Service” will automatically illuminate alerting you to check and clean the EGR valve, EGR cooler and to replace the CCV filter. How do you change the CCV? The inspection and/or change of the filter is very easy. The steps: • Remove the four 8mm bolts that hold the “batwing” cover in place. Remove the dipstick and then the cover. • Remove the oil drain hose from the passenger side of the CCV filter. As you inspect the hose you should find that there is very little oil that makes it this far into the vent system. • Remove the eight 8mm bolts that hold the CCV filter in place.
New CCV on the left. At 30,000 miles the CCV on the right looked clean and was reinstalled.
• Inspect or replace the CCV filter. With only 30,000 miles on my truck I did not replace the CCV filter. • Reassemble in reverse order. The Fleetguard part number for the CCV is CV5200100. It sells for $65. The Mopar part number for the CCV is 68002433AB. It sells for $119. Robert Patton TDR Staff 6.7 HPCR OIL CHANGE DATA
Removing the eight 8mm bolts that hold the CCV in place. Do not use the impact tool to reassemble and tighten the bolts.
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“We installed our first B&W Turnover Ball Hitch in a 1993 Dodge Truck.” “Since then, we’ve put millions of miles on our trucks, hauling trailers all over the country.” “For good reason, today all 53 Dodge Rodeo Trucks have a Turnover Ball Hitch.” “The B&W Turnover Ball is dependable, like our trucks, our sport, our lifestyle.” Mike Orman, President Dodge Rodeo
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued by Robert Patton and John Martin Back in Issue 61 (page 34) I reported oil analysis data for two 5000 mile oil change intervals, one from 15K to 20K; the other from 20K to 25K. At the 25K milestone I chose to leave the oil in the engine for another 5,000 miles. This would give me a chance to see if acting irresponsibly(?) and doubling the 6.7-liter oil change from an interval of 5,000 to an interval of 10,000 miles would parallel the results that occurred when I was forgetful and went a full 20,000 miles between oil changes in my ’99 Turbo Diesel. What I found from that experiment in forgetfulness was that the viscosity and total base numbers were within the acceptable range, wear metals were predictably double what was shown in the earlier 10,000 mile sample for that engine. Everything was within the “normal” range and I could have gone for another 5, maybe 10,000 miles (a 30K total). The results for the 6.7-liter engine’s 10K oil sample: Oil used: CPA* 15W40 classification CI-4 Plus/CJ mixture** 20-25,000 miles 20-30,000 miles Limits*** Viscosity @ 100° 13.0 13.9 Total base number 7.19 4.2 Wear Metals Iron Chromium Aluminum Copper Nickel Lead Tin
33 1 4 3 0 1 1
76 2 7 5 0 2 0
Contaminants Silicon Sodium Potassium
4 1 10
7 0 15
Fuel Volume Soot Volume Water
0 0.9 0
83 5 9 107 3 6 4
How do you interpret these numbers? Issue 61, page 35, used data from PdMA Corporation (www.pdma.com), a lube oil testing company. The text gave us a “normal” range for wear metals. As the data was old (6/2000), I took the opportunity to verify and update. The word that I received from Fleetguard’s Polaris Laboratories (the location that performed the analysis) was that the testing norms had evolved. Polaris Labs now has the ability to evaluate the oil for a specific manufacturer and engine displacement. Using the 6.7-liter as the example, they look at wear based on bell-curve distribution and establish high limits for each engine. Those numbers were noted on the table. I appreciate the fine-tuned numbers that were provided by Fleetguard’s Polaris Labs. Yet, I wanted more data regarding soot, total base number, fuel dilution, etc. So, I called oil guru John Martin to see if he could tell us more. John was able to call some “friends in the business” and adds the following notes to the “Limits” table. John writes: I got a copy of Cummins’ latest oil bulletin plus some information from a large fleet which operates lots of Cummins 5.9-liter engines. The guideline info in TDR 61 looks good, but I would add a few items. • •
• •
<.5 1.2 <.1
• •
* What is “CPA” oil? The discussion by lube oil engineer John Martin in our Issue 54 to 58 magazines convinced me to purchase lube oil that meets the API specifications CI-4 Plus or CJ based on commodity, price and availability. I are a lube oil engineer. ** CI-4 Plus is not recommended for use in the 6.7-liter engine. The reason: CI-4 Plus oils have higher levels of phosphorus which can glaze-over and plug the holes of the diesel particulate filter.
Silicon is an indicator of a loose air inlet connection or a ruptured air filter. Cummins suggests 20 ppm over new oil value is a critical value. Sodium, Boron, and Potassium are indicators of coolant leaks. Cummins suggests the following values: • Boron 25 ppm over new oil value (some oils use borated dispersants) • Potassium 20 ppm over new oil value (some oils use potassium) • Sodium 20 ppm over new oil value (guess what; some oils use sodium detergents because they are cheap) Soot should be no higher than 3% in Cummins’ smaller engines. TBN (total base number) should be no less than ½ of the new oil value Fuel dilution should be no more than 5% maximum Water content should be no more than + or -1 SAE grade
As I suspected, the smaller Cummins engines have slightly different condemnation limits than the big displacement engines. John Martin TDR Writer Viscosity and TBN
*** The parts-per-million numbers in this column represent the wear limit values for the 6.7-liter engine as established by Fleetguard’s Polaris Labs.
The oil sample test data will give you the viscosity and the TBN, or total base number (an oil’s ability to fight off acids). The viscosity is usually given at 100 deg C in cSt. The range is as follows: SAE 20 has a range of 5.60 to 9.29 SAE 30 has a range of 9.30 to 12.49 SAE 40 has a range of 12.50 to 16.29 SAE 50 has a range of 16.30 to 21.89.
Interpretation
If you are using 15W-40-grade oil, the oil analysis should say it’s in
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued the range of a SAE 40. If not, then the oil is out of viscosity grade and should be changed. As for the TBN, they should typically range from about 6 to 10 (10 being better) and should not deplete to about 50 percent of the original amount. In today’s engines, when using the diesel fuel that is available, a TBN of over 10 is not needed, even in long oil drain situations. Conclusion As I noted in Issue 61, the mistake of not identifying the origin of the CPA oil became glaringly obvious. I did not have a base from which to monitor the viscosity or the total base number (TBN). Were I really serious about the data it would be bothersome. But, with my I-don’t-care/CPA attitude, all I wanted to know was “is it safe to go 10,000 miles with this engine?” My “I are a lube oil engineer” answer—barely. The lube oil report showed “1” on the scale: 0-1 = Normal 2-3 = Abnormal 4 = Critical The data was flagged for “iron at a minor level.” My concern was the low 4.2 total base number (TBN).
a snapshot picture and your engine needs to be closely monitored. Compared to previous engine experiences, I would not have thought a 5,000 mile interval to be too long. The 10,000 mile snapshot showed me that I was about to step over the cliff in terms of iron wear and possibly TBN. It had declined from an unknown origin, to 7.19 at 5000 miles, and now 4.2 at 10,000 miles. As you have learned from watching the overhead display (electronic vehicle information console), the oil change message for the 6.7-liter engine is driven by the truck’s duty cycle. My testing of the interval was done because I am stubborn, hard-headed and cantankerous. The moral of my story (and intuitively you already know this): The EGR-equipped 6.7-liter engines will require greater attention to the oil change interval than the previous 5.9-liter engines. Go forth and reeducate yourself. Robert Patton TDR Staff
Glaringly obvious observation number two: lube oil analysis only give
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued TSB RELEASES ON THE 6.7 ENGINE Issue 62 of the TDR contained our yearly summary of Dodge technical service bulletins (TSBs). The release of TSBs is an ongoing process and, using the services available at Chrysler’s web site www. techauthority.com (Issue 62, page 72, has a write-up on this valuable resource), I downloaded three new TSBs that apply to various truck models with the 6.7-liter engine. As is my practice, I have summarized these TSBs for you. The complete documents can be obtained at the web site (a complete download of all TSBs on your truck cost a nominal $20) or by contacting your Dodge dealer.
CATEGORY 14
The three TSBs that were released may or may not apply to your truck model. The following is a list of the model codes: DH = 2500 Pickup D1 = 3500 Pickup DC = 3500 Cab and Chassis DM = 4500 and 5500 Cab and Chassis The TSBs that were released are as follow:
FUEL
TSB#
MODELS
SUBJECT/DESCRIPTION
14-003-08 12/19/08
‘09 (DH/D1) ‘09 (DC/DM)
Fuel filter design change. This bulletin applies to 2009 DH and D1 vehicles equipped with a Cummins 6.7-liter diesel (sales code ETJ) built after December 15, 2008, and to all 2009 DC and DM vehicles equipped with a Cummins 6.7-liter diesel (sales code ETJ). This information-only bulletin advises the service network that fuel filter supplied as original equipment is a new design. The new style filter will incorporate a dual-element filter within a reusable shell. The proper service technique when replacing the filter is to rinse the shell with clean fuel. Do NOT fill the shell with fuel prior to installation. Follow the instructions provided with replacement filter. Replacing the filter does not require replacing the filter shell. During routine maintenance service, use dual-element filter part number 68061634AA. If damage to the shell occurs during routine maintenance service, use part number 68061633AA.
14-001-09 1/24/09
‘05 - ‘09 (D1/DH) ‘07 - ‘09 (DC)
Severe duty fuel filtration Mopar add-on kit available. This bulletin applies to D1/DH vehicles equipped with a 5.9-liter Cummins engine built from 2005 model year and D1/DH/DC vehicles equipped with a 6.7-liter Cummins engine built from 2007 model year. A frame-mounted supplemental filter kit is now available for the vehicles listed above. This kit includes complete instructions with all necessary components and wiring to upgrade fuel filtering to a severe duty rating. The part numbers for various truck models are listed below: Part No. Description 68046192AA Model DC 143.5 and 167.5 Wheelbase 52 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68046193AA Model DC 143.5 and 167.5 Wheelbase 22 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68046206AA Model DC 163.5 Wheelbase 52 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68046207AA Model DC 163.5 Wheelbase 22 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68045251AA Model DH/D1 140.5 and 160.5 Wheelbase 34 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68045252AA Model DH/D1 140.5 and 160.5 Wheelbase 35 gallon fuel tank – 6.7-liter 68045253AA Model DH/D1 140.5 and 160.5 Wheelbase 34 gallon fuel tank – 5.9-liter 68045254AA Model DH/D1 140.5 and 160.5 Wheelbase 35 gallon fuel tank – 5.9-liter
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued
CATEGORY 18
VEHICLE PERFORMANCE
TSB#
MODELS
SUBJECT/DESCRIPTION
18-001-09
‘07 - ‘09 (DC/DM) 3500/4500/5500 Cab Chassis
Engine systems and exhaust aftertreatment systems enhancements. This bulletin supersedes technical service bulletin 18-009-07 Rev. B, Dated July 13, 2007. This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a Cummins 6.7-liter engine (sales code ETJ) built on or before January 13, 2009. The following conditions and improvements have been addressed with the latest Engine Control Module (PCM) software. 1. The latest PCM software will address the erroneous MIL illumination of the following faults. If the condition persists, please perform the appropriate Diagnostic Procedure in DealerCONNECT/ TechCONNECT for that fault code: a. P0191 – Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Performance b. P0128 – Thermostat Rationality c. P0106 – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Performance d. P0524 – Engine Oil Pressure Too Low e. P061A – ETC Level 2 Torque Performance f. P0607 – ECU Internal Performance 2. The latest PCM software will include the following operational and diagnostic improvements: a. Creation of new Turbocharger codes to address VGT actuator calibration event failures separate from other VGT actuator communication faults for P0046 and inappropriate P2262 faults due to Foreign Object Debris. b. The new codes are: P003A – Turbocharger Boost Control Module Position Exceeded Learning Limit and P2563 – Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Performance. 3. Creation of three new codes to address the inlet air temperature sensor separate from the ambient air temperature sensor. The new codes are: a. P1191 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Rationality/Performance. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0071 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Rationality/Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Performance. b. P1192 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Too Low. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0072 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too Low. c. P1193 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Too High. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0073 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too High. 4. Improvement to the single diagnostic DTC P0148 – Fuel Delivery Error. This DTC is now addressed by the following two DTC diagnostics: a. P1011 – Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too Low. b. P1012 – Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too High. 5. Improve engine cooling capability and prevention of over temp condition (P0217 – Coolant Temperature Too High) when operating with snow plow. 6. New feature that allows for customer-selectable remote PTO speed (if equipped). a. Instructions for this new feature are available at www.dodgebodybuilders.com. 7. DTC P0513 – Invalid Skim Key may set during a quick restart using Remote Start feature (if equipped). 8. The latest PCM software includes a new extended idle feature to accommodate the extended idle times present in some duty cycles. This feature may help to reduce the accumulation of soot in the exhaust aftertreatment system when the engine is idling for an extended period of time. Briefly how this feature works: a. As needed, the engine enters an idling mode which dramatically reduces the rate of soot accumulation in the diesel particulate filter (called “Net Zero”). Further, under extended idle periods of five minutes or longer, the engine enters a mode which reduces the amount of soot accumulated in the diesel particulate filter (called “Net Reduction”). While in these modes, the idle speed increases to 900 RPM for a period of time. The idle speed may return to normal idle speed and then return to 900 RPM to repeat this cycle during very long idle periods. b. These modes occur automatically depending on the need to regenerate the DPF as long as the vehicle is not driven over 20 MPH or operated at high load. If the vehicle is driven over 20 MPH normal mobile desoot will occur automatically. The bulletin involves reprogramming the PCM with the updated software.
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued FUTURE ECM COMPLEXITY AND CURRENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES In Issue 63’s “Blowin’ in the Wind” column there were quotes from the trade publication Transportation Topics that discussed future diesel emissions regulations. Titled “Ex-EPA Official Sees No New Rules on Diesel Exhaust Emissions After 2010,” the article was examined for its meaning to the TDR audience. At the end of the quoted material from Transportation Topics I concluded the following: “In trying to interpret what the ‘No New Rules’ headline might actually mean for the 6.7-liter engine, I called one of my contacts at Cummins. What I took away from the phone exchange is the confident declaration that the engine is ‘very well positioned.’ The emissions from the 6.7-liter engine are on par with gasoline engines—and the emissions horizon for gasoline is stable. Reassuring. Nevertheless, the current notice of proposed rule (NPR) making has a deadline of 2013. The 2013 rules will have Dodge and Cummins further continuing modifications to meet on-board diagnostics (OBD) requirements. The bottomline…more sensors and greater ECM complexity as more engine parameters are monitored, controlled and reported through OBD read-outs. No rest for the weary.” Do you need further evidence of the greater ECM complexity and more items being monitored and reported? Well you did not have to look any further than the summary of the latest technical service bulletin (TSB) 18-013-08 Revision A which was released in December and applies to all 6.7-liter engines produced prior to November 27, 2008. The summary was in Issue 63 on pages 38 and 39. Did you miss the correlation of further diagnostics and the implementation of modifications on the 6.7-liter engine? I’ll save you from searching through your TDR library. Here is the text: “Owners should also note that with the revised software of TSB 18013-08 Revision A, a number of improvements have been made to the engine diagnostics. Performing this service bulletin completely will enable these diagnostic improvements. • Improved Fuel Level Sensor diagnostics in the ECM. • Improvement to the single diagnostic DTC P0148 – Fuel Delivery Error. This DTC is now addressed by the following two DTC diagnostics: P1011 – Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too Low P1012 – Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too High • Creation of three new DTC’s to address the inlet air temperature sensor separate from the ambient air temperature sensor. The new DTC’s are: P1191 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Rationality/Performance. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0071 – Inlet air Temp Sensor Rationality/Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Performance P1192 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Too Low. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0072 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too Low P1193 – Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Too High. This DTC enhances the current DTC P0073 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too High
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• New ECM and CCN software that together will improve the customer understanding of the exhaust aftertreatment system messages that can be displayed on the overhead Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC). • Creation of a new DTC to address VGT actuator calibration event failures separate from other VGT actuator communication faults for P0046. The new DTC is: P003A – Turbocharger Boost Control Module Position Exceeded Learning Limit.” 6.7-Liter DTC Code Retrieval Okay, we have laid the ground work for your understanding of the engine and exhaust aftertreatment’s current and future complexity. What is an owner to do when you get the check engine light (CEL)/ aka malfunction indicator light (MIL), or electronic throttle control (ETC) illumination on your dash? Better yet, what is the used truck owner, 10 years down the road, going to do? Can you say “black electrical tape?” No, black electrical tape is not the answer. The answer is to find out what the dang-blasted DTC number is and look up its meaning. Then, make an informed decision about whether you will “drive thru” the diagnostic glitch or whether trouble looms on the horizon. First, how do you retrieve the code? Internet myth has it that the codes cannot be brought-up on the ’07.5 and newer trucks (some say since ’06). On the flip-side, internet research will show you how to pull up the codes on a photobucket video. I’ll save you the time finding the photobucket video. The technique is the same as it has been since 1994. (I think it is that long ago.) Here is a diagram from your owner’s Manual so that we’re using the same words.
6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued Using Dodge’s vernacular, here is the method: • Insert key • Move it from Lock to Off, pause • Move to On/Run • Back to Off • Move to On/Run • Back to Off • Move to On/Run and stop The three movements from Off to On/Run should be done in less than, say, 5-seconds. Read the codes where the truck’s odometer shows total miles (not trip miles). Make note of the code(s) and continue your research with the TDR magazine in-hand. What Do the Codes Mean With apologies in advance to Chuck Berry (“No Particular Place to Go”) Ridin’ along in my diesel truck A code comes up, I’m outta luck. What does it mean, well I don’t know Hoping the truck it doesn’t slow. I’ll check it out when I get home With no particular place to go. So, now I’m home and the computer is logged on to www.tdr1.com. My thanks to “Kilo” who posted the 6.7-liter engine code numbers and descriptions last October. The table: P0016-crankshaft/camshaft Timing Misalignment - Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0031-o2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit Low P0037-o2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit Low P003a-turbocharger Boost Control Module Position Exceeded Learning Limit P0046-turbocharger Boost Control Circuit Performance P0049-turbocharger Turbine Overspeed P006e-turbocharger Boost Control Module Supply Voltage Circuit Low P006f-turbocharger Boost Control Supply Voltage Circuit High P0071-inlet Air Temp Sensor Rationality - Ecm P0071-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Performance (tipm) P0072-inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too Low - Ecm P0072-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (tipm) P0073-inlet Air Temp Sensor Voltage Too High - Ecm P0073-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High (tipm) P007c-charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor Circuit Low P007d-charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor Circuit High P007e-charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent/erratic P0087-fuel Rail Pressure Too Low P0088-fuel Rail Pressure Too High P00af-turbocharger Boost Control Module Performance P0101-mass Air Flow Sensor “a” Circuit Performance P0102-mass Air Flow Sensor “a” Circuit Low P0103-mass Air Flow Sensor “a” Circuit High P0106-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Performance
P0107-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low P0108-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High P0111-intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Performance P0112-intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low P0113-intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High P0116-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Performance P0117-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low P0118-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High P0128-thermostat Rationality P0131-o2 Sensor 1/1 Circuit Low P0135-o2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Performance P0137-o2 Sensor 1/2 Circuit Low P0141-o2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Performance P0148-fuel Delivery Error P0169-water In Fuel Detected For Too Long P0191-fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Performance P0192-fuel Pressure Sensor Low P0193-fuel Pressure Sensor High P0201-fuel Injector 1 Circuit/open P0202-fuel Injector 2 Circuit/open P0203-fuel Injector 3 Circuit/open P0204-fuel Injector 4 Circuit/open P0205-fuel Injector 5 Circuit/open P0206-fuel Injector 6 Circuit/open P0217-coolant Temperature Too High P0219-engine Overspeed P0251-injection Pump Fuel Valve Feedback P0300-multiple Cylinder Misfire P0335-crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit P0336-crankshaft Position Sensor Performance P0340-camshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0341-camshaft Position Sensor Performance - Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0381-wait To Start Lamp Inoperative P0400-egr System Flow Malfunction P0401-egr System Performance P0402-egr Flow Excessive Detected P0403-egr Control Circuit/open P0404-egr Position Sensor Performance Diesel P0405-egr Position Sensor Circuit Low P040b-exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Performance P040c-exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low P040d-exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High P0420-catalyst Efficiency Bank 1 P042e-exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Stuck Open P0461-fuel Level Sensor 1 Performance P0462-fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit Low P0463-fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit High P0471- Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 Performance P0472- Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 Low P0473- Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 High P0480-cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/open P0483-cooling Fan Speed P0487-egr Airflow Throttle Control Circuit A Open P0488-egr Airflow Throttle Control Circuit Performance P0489-egr Control Circuit Low P0501-vehicle Speed Sensor 1 Performance P0505-engine Speed At Idle - Data Erratic, Intermittent Or Incorrect P0513-invalid Skim Key P0514-battery Temperature Sensor Performance P0516-battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Low P0517-battery Temperature Sensor Circuit High P051b-crankcase Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/performance P051c-crankcase Pressure Sensor Circuit Low P051d-crankcase Pressure Sensor Circuit High P0521-engine Oil Pressure Sensor Performance
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued P0524-engine Oil Pressure Too Low P0532-a/c Pressure Sensor Circuit Low P0533-a/c Pressure Sensor Circuit High P0541-intake Air Heater Control Circuit 1 Low P0542-intake Air Heater Control Circuit 1 High P0545-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low - Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0546-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High - Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0562-battery Voltage Low P0563-battery Voltage High P0571-brake Switch 1 Performance P0572-brake Switch 1 Stuck On P0573-brake Switch 1 Stuck Off P0580-speed Control Switch 1 Circuit Low P0581-speed Control Switch 1 Circuit High P0585-speed Control Switch 1/2 Correlation P0592-speed Control Switch 2 Circuit Low P0593-speed Control Switch 2 Circuit High P0601-internal Memory Checksum Invalid P0604-internal Control Module Ram P0606-internal Control Processor P0607 Ecu Internal Performance P061a-etc Level 2 Torque Performance P061c-etc Level 2 Rpm Performance P0622-generator Field Control Circuit/open P0628-fuel Pump Control Circuit Low P0629-fuel Pump Control Circuit High P062c-etc Level 2 Mph Performance P0630-vin Not Programmed In Pcm P0633-skim Secret Key Not Stored In Pcm P063c-generator Voltage Sense Low P063d-generator Voltage Sense High P0642-sensor Reference Voltage 1 Circuit Low P0643-sensor Reference Voltage 1 Circuit High P0646-a/c Control Circuit Low P0647-a/c Control Circuit High P0652-sensor Reference Voltage 2 Low P0653-sensor Reference Voltage 2 High P065a-generator System Performance P0698-sensor Reference Voltage 3 Circuit Low P0699-sensor Reference Voltage 3 Circuit High P06a4-sensor Reference Voltage 4 Circuit Low P06a5-sensor Reference Voltage 4 Circuit High P0700-transmission Control System (mil Request) P0850-park/neutral Switch Performance P1011 - Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too Low P1012 - Fuel Pump Delivery Pressure Too High P1191 - Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Rational/performance P1192 - Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Low P1193 - Inlet Air Temperature Sensor High P113c-o2 Sensor Power Supply Circuit Performance P125a-power Enable Control Circuit Low P125b-power Enable Control Circuit High P1272-a/c Clutch Control Circuit 2 Low (tipm) P1273-a/c Clutch Control Circuit 2 High (tipm) P1274-a/c Clutch Control Circuit 2 Open (tipm) P1275-a/c Clutch Control Circuit 2 Overcurrent (tipm) P1277-starter Control Circuit 2 Low (tipm) P1278-starter Control Circuit 2 High (tipm) P1279-starter Control Circuit 2 Open (tipm) P127a-starter Control Circuit 2 Overcurrent (tipm) P127c-fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 Low (tipm) P127d-fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 High (tipm) P127e-fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 Open (tipm) P127f-fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 Overcurrent (tipm) P141a-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 1 And 2 Signals Swapped P144e-egr Cooler Bypass Status Line Circuit Low
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P144f-egr Cooler Bypass Status Line Circuit High P1451-diesel Particulate Filter System Performance P1484-catalyst Overheat Detection P1506-crankcase Depression Regulator Valve Performance P1507-crankcase Filter Restriction P1508-crankcase Filter Restriction - Replace Filter P2000-nox Absorber Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 1 P2002-diesel Particulate Filter Efficiency Below Threshold P200c-diesel Particulate Filter Over Temperature - Bank 1 P200e-catalyst System Over Temperature - Bank 1 P2032-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low - Bank 1 Sensor 2 P2033-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High - Bank 1 Sensor 2 P2080-exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit Performance - Bank 1
Sensor 1
P2084-exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit Performance - Bank 1 Sensor 2 P2121-accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Performance P2122-accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low P2123-accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit High P2127-accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low P2128-accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit High P2141-egr Airflow Throttle Control Circuit Low P2142-egr Airflow Throttle Control Circuit High P2227-barometeric Pressure Sensor Rationality P2228-barometric Pressure Circuit Low P2229-barometric Pressure Circuit High P2262-turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected - Mechanical P2266-water In Fuel Sensor Circuit Low P2267-water In Fuel Sensor Circuit High P2269-water In Fuel Condition P2299-brake Pedal Position / Accelerator Pedal Position Incompatible P242b-exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit Performance - Bank 1 Sensor 3 P242c-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low - Bank 1 Sensor 3 P242d-exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High - Bank 1 Sensor 3 P242f-diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Ash Accumulation P244a-diesel Particulate Filter Differential Pressure Too Low P244d-exhaust Temperature Too High For Particulate Filter Regeneration - Bank 1 P2453-diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Performance P2454-diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Low P2455-diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit High P2457-exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooling System Performance P245a-egr Cooler Bypass Control Circuit Open P245c-egr Cooler Bypass Control Circuit Low P245d-egr Cooler Bypass Control Circuit High P2463-diesel Particulate Filter - Soot Accumulation P2503-charging System Output Low P2504-charging System Output High P2509-ecm/pcm Power Input Signal Intermittent P254c-pto Speed Selector Sensor Circuit Low P254d-pto Speed Selector Sensor Circuit High P2579-turbocharger Speed Sensor Circuit Performance P2580-turbocharger Speed Sensor Circuit Low P2609-intake Air Heater System Performance P268c-cylinder 1 Injector Data Incompatible P268d-cylinder 2 Injector Data Incompatible P268e-cylinder 3 Injector Data Incompatible P268f-cylinder 4 Injector Data Incompatible P2690-cylinder 5 Injector Data Incompatible P2691-cylinder 6 Injector Data Incompatible P2a00-o2 Sensor 1/1 Circuit Performance P2a01-o2 Sensor 1/2 Circuit Performance
6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued What is Next?
Make It Go Away
Okay, it is decision time. Let’s say you’ve noted a “P0116 – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Performance,” or P0071 – Inlet Air Temp Sensor Rationality – ECM.” Are you going to “drive thru” the diagnostic glitch and feel comfortable that you’ll not be stranded in Boondocks, New Mexico?
Will your DTC simply go away? Sure, that’s what black electrical tape is used for. Seriously, look back at TDR Issue 61, page 88, and John Holmes’ write-up on an inexpensive scan tool/monitor system. Purchase the Scan Gauge and clear the fault. It will work on automobiles too. Go to your local mechanic and clear the fault. Go to the auto parts store and clear the fault… Clear the fault, but does it reappear? Time for a trip to the Dodge dealership?
Were it my truck I would continue onward. But, as you can see by the different code definitions, there are some that will require your immediate attention. For that matter, the above P0116 and P0071 example that I would drive-thru may cause you too much alarm. If left unattended I’ve no doubt that the malfunction(s) will have other cause/effect consequences. But, driving thru a DTC and the malfunction indicator light (MIL) or electronic throttle control (ETC) is not something that has an easy yes or no answer. Ultimately it is your judgment call. For help with that judgment call I looked up both the MIL and ETC meanings in my Owner’s Manual. Unfortunately, the text is just as vague as my judgment call response. “If this light comes on and remains on while driving, it suggests a potential engine control problem and the need for system service. “Although your vehicle will usually be drivable and not need towing, see your dealer for service as soon as possible. “CAUTION! “Prolonged driving with the MIL on could cause damage to the engine control system. It also could affect fuel economy and drivability.” The Seriousity of the EVIC Say what? Yes, “seriousity,” I have made up a new entry in the Webster Dictionary. And EVIC was defined earlier as an acronym for the overhead electronic vehicle information center (EVIC). If you will look back at Issue 63, pages 38-39, you will find TSB 18013-08 Revision A dated 12/04/08 which describes a reflash for ‘07 - ‘09 DH/D1 (that’s Dodge-speak for 2500/3500 pickup) trucks. If you will look at our summary of TSB 18-001-09 you will see that there is another reflash program for the 6.7-liter engine that is used in ‘07 - ‘09 DC/DM (Dodge-speak for 3500/4500/5500 Cab and Chassis) trucks. These twoTSB revisions use the overhead EVIC to warn the owner of “Do Not Pass Go/Do Not Collect $200” messages that will disable the engine due to emissions related problems. For examples of these messages, see the sidebar that we are reprinting from Issue 62. All vehicles built after March 2008, or those fully updated per TSBs 18-013-08 and 18-001-09, have the software for the new messages that will appear on the EVIC should there be emissions problems. The EVIC display of an impending engine problem is serious news and owners should take immediate corrective action at a Dodge dealership.
Will the DTC go away on its own? Perhaps. A look at the industrywide guidelines for on board diagnostics (OBD) reveals that it takes four drive cycles of non-malfunction to turn off the MIL light, 40 cycles and the code is cleared from the OBD memory. Did it go away? Conclusion What have we learned? • In the future DTCs will continue in greater numbers and scope. • You can retrieve DTCs using the “key trick.” • You have the codes listed in this magazine. Copy and carry them with you. • You have a judgment decision to make should you encounter a DTC. • If your problem is minor and does not reoccur the MIL light will turn off and the code will be cleared from OBD memory. Robert Patton TDR Staff
Notes on exhaust system regeneration: The ECM continuously monitors the level of particulates (soot) and other substances in the exhaust aftertreatment system. As needed, the ECM triggers a regeneration to remove them. This is completely transparent to the driver. There are no indicators on the instrument cluster or EVIC, and there is no difference in sound or feel of the engine. In other words, when things are operating as normal, as they do for the majority of owners, you will not know that a regeneration is needed or in-process. In rare cases, typically due to difficult drive cycles, a regeneration may not be possible. In those cases, you may see a message on the overhead console (EVIC) regarding the aftertreatment system, stating either ‘CATALYST FULL’ or ‘EXHAUST SYSTEM REGENERATION REQUIRED NOW’, depending on the level of software. As long as the percent-full message is less than 100%, the system can complete a regeneration if you change your drive cycle to allow it to happen. The most effective drive cycle for regeneration is highway cruise. Some trucks, depending on the level of software, will display ‘REGENERATION IN PROCESS’ if your drive cycle has changed such that regeneration has been started. Note that this message will occur only after the system has gotten full enough to display the ‘EXHAUST SYSTEM REGENERATION REQUIRED NOW’, meaning you will not see it on every regeneration. A visit to your dealer is necessary only if a message regarding the exhaust aftertreatment system reading ‘SEE DEALER’ or ‘SERVICE REQD’ is displayed on the EVIC. In that case, getting the truck to the dealer sooner, rather than later, may prevent further damage to the system.
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued 6.7-LITER FUEL FILTER FOLLIES With the release of Dodge TSB 14-003-08 (page 44), there is now a new dual-element fuel filter available for ’07.5 and newer 6.7-liter engine owners. Note from the TSB: if your 6.7-liter engine was built after 12/15/08 you already have the new dual element fuel filter and the appropriate filter shell on your engine. Why the title, “fuel filter follies?” Because as ‘07.5 to early ’09 owners move to use the new Mopar and Fleetguard part numbers there will be confusion. I’ll address the complexity of the part numbers involved later. First let’s discuss the benefit of the new dual-element design.
Once you have purchased a new design shell you can purchase a dual-element filter only. The part numbers needed are: Mopar 6806164AA Filter only Fleetguard FS43258 Filter only The new design shell looks just like the shell from the ’07.5 to early ’09 engine. However, on close inspection, you will see two subtle differences—one that matters, one that doesn’t. The difference in the shell that doesn’t matter: the revised water drain valve.
Technical Discussion Technical discussion: The new dual-element filter is known within the Dodge and Cummins organizations as the FS2. The first stage of the filter provides the initial filtration and also serves to coalesce water entrained in the fuel into larger droplets. The second stage filter provides more particle removal and has the added function of stripping the water droplets that have been generated by the first stage media. The combined filtration performance of the two-stage filter yields a 5-micron rating (at 98.7% efficiency). Although new to the Dodge truck application, the filter-in-filter approach has been used by Cummins, and their filter subsidiary Fleetguard, for over 30 years. The filter media used in this application is the Fleetguard StrataPore filter media. (See related sidebar article on StrataPore filter media.) The history of the Dodge Ram with the Cummins Turbo Diesel engine dates back to the 1989 model truck. Since then, there have been improvements in all aspects of the trucks including the diesel fuel filters and fuel water separators. The significant changes of the past included enhancements from 10 micron to 7 micron filtration ratings (at 98.7% efficiency). Similarly, the filters have been sized and configured to function optimally on the diesel fuel that was available and foreseeable into the future. The initial ’07.5 engines were primarily faced with ULSD and B5 biodiesel (5% biofuel + 95% diesel fuel) use. Biodiesel fuel presents a challenge for removing water from the fuel. The new FS2 products will provide industry leading fuel/water separation performance and fuel system protection.
Notice the revised drain valves. Old on left, new on right.
The difference in the shell that prevents the old shell’s use with the new dual-element filter: the tighter inside diameter/inner ridges of the old shell do not allow the dual-element filter to slip into the shell.
Filter Follies Now, back to the fuel filter follies and part number complexity. The technical discussion convinced me that the dual-element filter is the one that should be used in ALL 6.7-liter applications. Should you own a ’07.5 to early ’09 (built before the change-over date of 12/15/08) you will have to purchase the dual-element fuel filter and shell to make the change-over. The part numbers needed: Mopar 68061633AA Filter and shell Fleetguard FS43257 Filter and shell
Old shell (left); New shell (right)
Got it? I’m sure that TDR members now understand. Now, if only this magazine could reach the rest of the ’07.5 to ’09 audience… Thank you for your efforts to educate other Turbo Diesel owners. I sense that this is going to be a major boondoggle. Time will serve to correct me if I am wrong. Robert Patton TDR Staff
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6.7 HPCR . . . . Continued SIDEBAR StrataPore Filter Media for Fuel and Oil Filters In the write-up for the new dual-element, FS2 fuel filter for the 6.7-liter engine, the Fleetguard trade name StrataPore was used throughout the text. For those new to the TDR, Dodge, Cummins and Cummins’ subsidiary company Fleetguard, some explanation is necessary. Fleetguard’s StrataPore filter media is not new. However, as I looked back through old TDR magazines for a description of StrataPore, I found the last write-up was 8-years ago. Shame on me for not giving new TDR members more frequent updates. Yet, how often is an update needed? I ask the question because data from the group at Geno’s Garage would suggest that the TDR audience is well aware of the StrataPore filter media’s benefits. How so? Consider the sale of oil filters for ’03-’09 trucks where the StrataPore media is offered in the more expensive LF16035 ($12.95) versus the paper cellulose filter LF3972 ($7.95). A price premium of $5, yet as a percentage LF 16035 outsells the LF3972, 92% to 8%. Elsewhere in the magazine (our Technical Topics column) we have a discussion on good intentions and vitamins for your truck. The StrataPore sales figures are confirmation that the TDR audience cares about proper maintenance, is well educated on their filter options, and is willing to pay for a better product. Using the StrataPore sales figures as a guideline, one could safely assume this sidebar is being written for 8% of the audience. Here goes… Taste Great – Less Filling Taste great, less filing; oops, wrong advertising campaign. That is a lite beer slogan. Let’s try this: Flows more, less restrictive. Like the beer commercial, it seems that better flow with less restriction would be mutually exclusive events. Not so with the StrataPore filter media. I can show you the difference using magnification of the filter media used for oil filters, then we’ll talk specifically about fuel filters.
StrataPore
Oil Filter Discussion Technical discussion: In the design of a generic paper cellulose oil filter the cellulose fiber is covered with a phenolic resin which, when heat cured, gives the media its wet strength. This resin, combined with the irregular size of the fibers, takes up a lot of flow area. This results in fewer paths through which the oil can flow as compared to the StrataPore filter media. Also, the cellulose paths are irregular (some larger, some smaller), resulting in lower efficiency. In contrast to the irregular size of the paper/cellulose fibers, the StrataPore filter media can be better controlled. The smaller and extremely consistent StrataPore fiber creates very small pores for the oil to flow through. StrataPore is a multi-layer polymeric filter media. Using a Melt Blowing process designed by Exxon, molten polymers are extruded through a spinneret that forms multiple fibers. High temperature, high velocity air is used to draw the fibers to small diameters which are collected on a screen forming a fine-fibered non-woven media. The benefit to the customer: consistent fiber control, flows more, less restrictive. Fuel Filter Discussion With the introduction of the FS2 for the 6.7-liter engine I wanted to know what filter media was used on previous year model Turbo Diesel trucks. Visual examination of the filter-elements of those cartridges used since 1997 (the Fleetguard FS19598) show that the StrataPore filter media is used. The older ’94-’96, FS1253; and ’89-’93, FS1232 filters are self contained. So I cut the canisters off and found that the filter media to be the paper cellulose design. As was mentioned in the earlier discussion, the FS2 filter for the 6.7-liter engine will offer a 5-micron rating, exceeding the existing filter’s 7-micron rating. Go forth and make the change to the new FS2 fuel filter.
Paper
Robert Patton TDR Staff TDR 64
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MEDIA GIBBERISH/FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES Every now and then (some would say every day) there is e-mail, web site, or print correspondence; telephone or in-person conversation; or television or radio gibberish that makes me cringe. Have you tried conversing with the television’s one-way screen? Did you raise your voice? Did the misinformation make you crazy? Did you wonder how many others were misled? How about an example close to home? A TDR member points me in the direction of the front page headline at Diesel this-and-that magazine’s web site, “Automatic Transmission Fluid Fuel—Used ATF as Fuel? An Under-the-Radar Alternative Fuel Option.” I think to myself, “How darned irresponsible!” So, I read the article. Bottom line, the writer’s use of the “?” in the title and final paragraph warnings saved the text from being totally reckless. Nonetheless, the article told the story of a ’02 Ford owner who was having success (I’d want a follow-up article in 20K miles to verify the word success), or should I say, the experience, of using ATF as fuel. Ridiculous. Along the same lines are the man-on-the-street or new TDR member questions that I (and I’m sure you, too) get asked about fuel additives. “What do you think about Marvelous Mystery’s fuel additive?” My short response, “Anything with a product title of ‘Mystery’ is just that, a mystery. And you want to put a mystery product into your fuel or lube oil? Not in my truck.” Often my answer is too blunt and time is subsequently spent soothing the bruised ego. To do so, I’ll point back to TDR Issue 28’s article by Kevin Cameron that tells the story in a more agreeable manner. Selected paragraphs from the text follow. You’ll find the reread entertaining. Issue 28’s Additive Discussion by Kevin Cameron “The question of aftermarket oil additives keeps coming up (Steed, Prolong, STP, Microlon, world without end), and it always will. When a person has laid out big money for a shiny, wonderful new Turbo Diesel, that person intends to do more than just drive around in it. That person wants to have a relationship with that truck. The proper care is essential. “In the old days, the relationship was easy. You changed your own oil every thousand miles, you ground your own valves, and you rotated your own tires. In fact there was more relationship between man and vehicle than most people wanted. That’s why today’s cars and trucks have become such turn key operations, with extended oil drain intervals and no tune-ups. Just get in and drive.
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“This is the 21st century here, a time when people are concerned over things like dietary fat and bad cholesterol. Because we are what we eat, and we want to be good, we have to eat carefully. This applies by analogy to new trucks that have cost us $32,000. Just as we are eating vitamin-C, DHEA, and no-flavor lean beef, so we are also tempted to pour expensive additives into the lubricating oil of our trucks, in hopes that performance will improve and that useful life will be extended. “I read a wonderful line somewhere, which went like this: ‘Vitamins were discovered in 1911. Before that time, people just ate food and died like flies.’ Something like this idea seems to drive people today to use additives—ordinary pump diesel fuel and manufacturerrecommended oils can’t be enough. Aftermarket additives are, therefore, the ‘vitamins’ we are tempted to give our vehicles. Never mind the fact that using ‘Nosmo King’ anti-smoke additive adds seven cents a gallon to the already high price of diesel. Never mind the fact that some highly-advertised ‘super’ oils cost more per quart than most of us pay for a case. “The ads are wonderfully persuasive. One I saw recently featured regular guys strolling in a junkyard. They approach a rusty clunker, start the engine, and listen to its assortment of clatters—collapsed tappets, rod knocks, loose wristpins. ‘Sounds pretty bad, Bob,’ remarks one of the strollers. ‘That’s right, Bill,’ returns another. ‘We’ll try a bottle of Noo-Life,’ Bill confides to the viewer. They pour it into the engine and instantly the clattering goes away (or the technician at the audio mixer cuts the treble way down—it’s hard to tell exactly which it is). ‘Sounds pretty good now, Bill,’ says the pourer, turning to the viewer and holding up the now empty NooLife bottle for our inspection of the label graphics. ‘Why don’t you try a bottle today?’ “In our minds, we know how it’s done, but in our soft hearts, we’re vulnerable, tempted to try a bottle. Yes, we know that unscrupulous used car dealers have, in the unregulated past, used sawdust to quiet timed-out transmissions, and we know that thick oil or a dose of motor honey (viscosity-index improver additive) will calm the high-frequency rattling of a worn-out engine. But, having laid out those thirty-two thousand ones end-to-end for that beautiful new truck (that’s more than three miles of money), it just doesn’t make sense to pass up products that might work, right? After all, they wouldn’t let ‘em say it on TV if it didn’t work as advertised would they? Would they?” Kevin talks about the $32,000 truck. You can tell that Issue 28 is old. It was written in May of 2000. Yet, the desire to fortify your engine or fuel system with the latest vitamins does not diminish. Change the names of the vitamins Kevin mentioned in the first sentence to newer arrivals Slick 50, Z Max, Lucas, etc. and you get the picture.
TECH TOPICS . . . . Continued Fuel Additives, Again
GTobey’s Response to Additives
Fuel additive discussion seems to come and go at the various diesel truck web sites. As evidenced by Scott Dalgleish’s notes in his Issue 63 column (page 86), the topic is relevant with the writers too.
The following are Gerald’s thoughts on fuel additives for diesel engines.
Yes, we all want to provide the best care for our trucks. The care is well-intentioned, but often unwarranted. So I’ll repeat a definitive statement that holds credibility for me. The text comes from Scot’s previous fuel additive discussion in Issue 63, page 86. “Quoting from a previous TDR magazine, ‘In several off-the-record discussions with service support staff the discussion has shifted to fuel conditioners as a maintenance practice for the ’98.5 to ’02 VP 44 fuel pump and the ’03 to ‘07 HPCR injectors. The product recommendations: Cummins Diesel Injector Cleaner/Valvoline SynPower (3164982 – one quart), Racor Diesel Fuel Additive (ADT 1116 – pint), Stanadyne Junior (31417 – pint) Mopar (05191800AA – pint). Wynns makes the Mopar product. “The message about fuel additives for the ’07.5 and newer 6.7 liter engine is not the same. Because of the emission controls that are a part of the 6.7 liter engine, fuel additives are not to be used. “No ifs, ands or buts. The answer is ULSD fuel only for the 6.7-liter engine. “That is the official response. As the 6.7-liter engine is approved for up to 5% biodiesel, I can only imagine that a ULSD-approved, fuel lubricity additive would be okay.” Fuel Additives – The Details The preceding gives you the guidelines as set forth by Dodge and Cummins. To the cynic, the fact that there were but few products recommended for use comes as no surprise, “Did ya think those guys would recommend anything other than their own branded additives?”
In late December there was much discussion at the TDR website about fuel additives. The editor saw my shoot-from-the-hip response and asked me to take aim at helping the larger magazine audience understand their fuel injection system. The web discussion started with a question about 2-stroke and ATF fluid. Watch out for stray bullets… I was just wondering, why would you want to put something in your fuel system that wasn’t designed to be there? Two-stroke oil was not designed for diesels, and where in any application is ATF supposed to be combustible? (And if it combusts, I don’t want it in my transmission!). Mineral spirits? (Okay, who poured that gallon of paint in the fuel tank?) And, as for used engine oil, after seeing the oil sample analyses from many, many diesel engines used in over-the-road, industrial, construction, and agricultural engines over the years, I wouldn’t put any used engine oil in a neighbor’s lawnmower. Back in the late 70’s and early 80’s, Racor used to sell a filtration cart to “filter and blend” used diesel engine oil into diesel fuel, up to a maximum of 5% by volume. Even then, they recommended that the used oil be tested for presence of antifreeze, and not to blend that oil into the fuel if it was contaminated. But as injection systems developed higher pressures, tighter tolerances, and hydrocarbon emissions were reduced, that practice was discontinued. Most manufacturers also rescinded that practice. By the time you pay to have for an oil analysis to see what the percentages of contamination are in the lube oil (that you really don’t want going through your injectors), you could buy the proper diesel fuel additive and use the right thing.
Just as we did in our lengthy discussion on lube oils, I found a voice of authority.
The Stanadyne Performance Formula additive was explicitly designed for your diesel fuel system as are some additives manufactured by other companies. For example, during Operation Desert Storm, our military was experiencing pump and injector failures on the GM HMMWV (“humvee”) because they were using JP8 jet fuel. They requested that Stanadyne, a manufacturer of diesel fuel injection equipment, invent a product to allow them to use JP8 in their diesel engines. I guess the old adage “necessity is the mother of invention” is true. Stanadyne’s “Lubricity Formula” was invented and it has performed well to this day. If it will add the proper lubrication to JP8 to allow it to be used in a diesel injection system, then it will work wonders for ULSD! We have also found it to work wonders for local airport vehicles where they are allowed to have only jet fuel on the tarmac, and they successfully use jet fuel in those diesel vehicles with the Lubricity Formula.
TDR member Gerald Tobey works at a Bosch Authorized/Association of Diesel Specialist (see ad, page 55) shop in Salem, Virginia, Blue Ridge Diesel (www.blueridgediesel.com). His credentials: a heavy equipment mechanic back in the 70’s, a Pre-Tech Coordinator for Bosch, a trainer for fuel system repairs, builder of all major makes of fuel systems from the 70’s on and an Association of Diesel Specialists Certified Diesel Injection Technician.
Regarding the desire to put something in the fuel and protect your investment, here is where my opinion differs. What I wonder about is the methodology that some folks use to choose a specific item to put into their fuel systems. Sometimes, it seems a person has given it proper thought and investigation, and other times only their feelings or pure non-scientific experimentation, and they dump in a dose of “whatever”!
Frankly speaking, no, and (cynic to cynic talking here) why would Dodge or Cummins recommend and test any other manufacturers’ additives? I see a stand-off here. Additionally, inquiring minds want to know more and perhaps learn about their favorite brand. What is an editor to do?
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TECH TOPICS . . . . Continued Some of the worst failures we found were from the vehicles that were hauled in on the back of a flatbed truck. They ranged from single cylinder air-cooled diesel engines, to VW Jetta diesels, to Ford E-450 buses. I’ve seen home-brews that were made with absolutely zero cetane; some liquids that the labs could not identify as fuels; some “fuel imposters” from the internet equipped makers of a bio-fuel; something liquid with a paint like smell that would cloud up at about 45°; methanol flavored diesel/veggie oil mixes; to the commercially produced bio-fuels (although we never saw the ASTM approvals for them). All of these engines experienced some sort of failure ranging from plugged injection nozzles, to failed fuel injection pumps, to leaking hoses, to plugged filters, to stuck rings, to even exploded pistons. The stories even hit close to home. A neighbor provided the KFC waste vegetable oil (WVO) to a Jetta owner who strained it through a cheesecloth filter and then straight into his tank. (He must’ve had to strain it to remove the popcorn chicken chunks!) This new car had only a few thousand miles on it, but expired shortly after the WVO was introduced. He lost all of his fuel savings and more in having to pay for the major repairs to the engine and fuel system! Before we had ASTM standards for biodiesel (Issue 62, page 48, June 2008) several of our local municipalities mandated the use of “green” fuels in their vehicles and equipment, as is trendy in all areas now, so that their administrators can claim that their fiefdom is more eco-friendly than another. Hence, along came the introduction of commercially available bio-diesel into the fuel being used by that municipality. The municipality was using a 2% blend, and most all of these vehicles are sporting the green bumper sticker touting that they are eco-friendly, implying they are saving the planet with the use of bio fuels. After just one quarter of the year, one maintenance department found that they had changed over 400 fuel filters in their diesel equipment, four times their normal usage. To add further insult to injury, they had to purchase 3 new gasoline powered service trucks and trailers to haul the broken down equipment back to the shop. The local taxpayers have to bear the brunt of the increased costs. Now, I’m not saying that biodiesel fuel can’t be used. There is comfort in the fact that there are now ASTM specifications and testing for 5% bio-blends (Issue 62, page 48). Just be careful. Our shop has experienced first-hand some of the problems with ULSD and we have discussed these issues with some of the tanker drivers in our area. I have also read the posts from other tanker drivers in the forums on the TDR website. They have told us about difficulties in providing the correct amount of lubricity when the fuel is loaded onto the trucks. We understand that the pipeline companies are forbidden to push #2 diesel through the lines if the lubrication has been added at the refinery because the FAA will not allow jet fuel to be contaminated with the lubricity additive residuals from the pipeline. The responsibility of adding the correct lubrication then shifts to the tank farms or to the truckers when they load the fuel into the tanker truck. Early on in the implementation of the ULSD fuel we had an instance involving two land-adjoining farmers who purchased identical tractors from a dealership on a “two for” deal. They decided to go together to get a load of diesel fuel for their storage tanks to save money by buying in quantity. Oddly enough, within 10 days, we
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had two failed fuel pumps in our shop, and the tractor dealer was asking for warranty consideration. The hour meters on both tractors indicated less than 100 hours of running time. Careful inspection revealed that both failures occurred due to the lack of lubrication in the fuel, which is not a failure or defect in workmanship or materials. Both pumps exhibited the same failure. The tractor dealer then asked for warranty from his tractor manufacturer, who stated it was the fuel injection equipment manufacturer’s problem. The customers just wanted their tractors back and any repairs necessary to be covered under warranty. The fuel distributor stated that they had plenty of lubrication added to their diesel fuel and would not accept any responsibility for the problem. The finger pointing and tempers really get to flaring when this kind of event occurs, putting all parties involved into a difficult situation.
This picture shows the supply pump ring from the internal transfer pump of one of the injection pumps. It visibly shows the damage to the transfer pump liner from lack of lubrication. The transfer pump vanes are in the center of the ring and exhibited major scoring on their sides and ends, and material from the ends of the vanes can be seen transferred to the liner surface.
This sort of failure has abated somewhat since the initial implementation of ULSD, although we do still see it from time to time. Years ago, the pressures in diesel injection systems were somewhere near 17,000 psi (’98.5-’02 engines). Today, with the advent of common rail fuel injection and piezoelectric fuel injectors, injection pressures are upwards of 27-29,000 psi. These piezoelectric fuel injectors can meter fuel through their fine nozzle holes with extreme precision. Because of the design, they can open and close the orifice four times faster than a solenoid valve actuated injector. This is fast enough to allow up to five discrete needle valve openings over the course of a single injection event. With these types of multiple injection events, the pressure rise in the cylinder is far more gradual, and the result is reduced emissions and noise at every engine speed and load. Because fuel injection systems are getting more and more precise, proper fuel quality requirements become imperative. Filtration requirements have become more stringent, and Cummins recommends that the 7-micron filter replace the older type cartridges, especially for the common rail engines [use Fleetguard FS19856 for ‘03 to ‘07 5.9-liter engines; use the new FS2 filter (see page 50) for the ‘07.5 - ‘09 6.7-liter engine].
TECH TOPICS . . . . Continued Now, here is a story that can be labeled absurd. When 2-micron fuel filter assemblies became available back in the ‘80s, we would install some on engines that were experiencing pump and injector failures from dirty fuel. Wouldn’t you know, the very next complaint was that the fuel filters were “stopping up” too fast! They wanted to go back to the 10 or even 30 micron ratings so they could have longer filter life! Of course this was at the expense of their pumps and injectors, creating the problem that they were trying to avoid. Yes, absurd. If you wish to fund the experimentation of using products in applications for which they were not intended, and you have the wherewithal to do it, by all means, go for it! But, do it with industry recognized scientific methodology. Have a control group, experiment under controlled conditions and document your findings so that you don’t spend that good money for bad. Performing tests in any other manner would be no different than doing the same thing over and over and over, yet expecting different results each time. (Editor’s note: Gerald, that’s the definition of insanity!) Finally, just because you don’t have an instant failure does not necessarily mean you have discovered the cure for a problem.
Conclusion While the jury may be out for deliberation, the judge (that’s me!) has reached a decision. This is not to say that my opinion has not been influenced. Several years ago we posted an article that showed the benefits of this-andthat fuel additive. But you’ll not see those types of analysis using up printed space in the TDR. Should you wish, there are numerous fuel system and lubricity additive studies on the web. Do a search and you will see what I mean. Be careful as you try to determine if the study is biased. For me, I’ll follow the advice of Dodge, Cummins, Kevin Cameron and Gerald Tobey of Blue Ridge Diesel. Robert Patton TDR Staff
Gerald Tobey Blue Ridge Diesel, Salem, Virginia
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6.7-LITER ASK THE ENGINEER Hidden in the closing paragraph of the “Cummins Column” in Issue 62 was the invitation to the TDR membership to “submit your questions regarding the 6.7-liter Cummins engine to the editor at rpatton@ix.netcom.com and I will forward them to our helpful contacts at Cummins Inc.” Purposefully, we did not make a big splash about the Q&A format. I have quietly gathered a handful of insightful inquiries, made edits, added past TDR references and then forwarded to Cummins for their response.
gas that was created by the combustion event. Further, the power cylinder components are engineered with the cooled EGR system in mind to ensure durability. Q. As the TDR’s editor I see the strong advantage that Dodge and Cummins will have at the January 2010 emissions date. Although the Cummins 6.7-liter audience has struggled through several reflash iterations, the competitive ’07 and newer Ford and GM engines are not without problems too. And, for the 2010 emissions date (that is only 6 months away), they’ll be introducing completely new engines!
Enough preamble. Some of your questions follow:
Aside from what we’ve read in trade publications, can you elaborate on the competitive products?
Q. Soothe the mind. Effective with the 6.7-liter engine’s introduction in January of 2007, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) was a new exhaust emissions strategy for the Dodge pickup customer. However, EGR for the B-series engine was first introduced in 2002. Please discuss Cummins’ experiences with EGR.
A. No comment. But the Cummins engine is well positioned.
A. In October 2002 Cummins implemented EGR with several engine products: the 5.9-liter ISB; the 11-liter ISM; and the 15-liter ISX engines that were used in on-highway applications. The Dodge Turbo Diesel 5.9-liter B-series engine did not require EGR.
Q. We know that the 6.7-liter has already met the January 2010 emissions guidelines. However, other Cummins engines, specifically the larger displacement big-rig engines, will have a different exhaust aftertreatment technology, the use of selective catalytic reduction (SCR) and the corresponding injection of urea fluid into the exhaust stream. The fluid is officially called diesel emissions fluid (DEF) and it will be available under many different trade names.
The 5.9-liter ISB vehicles that have used EGR are medium-duty trucks with names that you’ll recognize like Freightliner and Bluebird.
If I recall correctly, the use of a NOX absorber catalyst (NAC) on the 6.7-liter engine was the key to “keeping it simple stupid” for the diesel pickup customer. Your thoughts?
In 2007 Cummins introduced EGR as a part of the emissions package for our 8.3-liter ISC engine, our 9-liter ISL engine and the Dodge 6.7-liter Turbo Diesel engine.
A. The 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 pickup trucks met the 2010 emissions requirements three years ahead of schedule by employing a NOX Adsorber Catalyst. We are excited to continue with this proven package for pickup customers in 2010.
From April of 2002 through December of 2006 Cummins engines with EGR accumulated over 40 billion miles of service. Q. As an audience, since our ownership of an internal combustion engine (What was your first, a lawnmower?), we’ve been taught that clean air is paramount to the longevity of the piston ring-to-cylinder seal. By now we have all seen the sooted intake tract of an EGRequipped engine. The impression one gets from the photographs does not inspire confidence. Please explain how the integrity of the combustion seal is maintained. A. While the intake tract does show soot from the EGR, you have to remember that the exhaust gas that is being recirculated into the engine was just created by the combustion event(s) in the cylinder(s). Thus, the EGR is no more detrimental than the exhaust
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However, a new DEF aftertreatment system will be introduced on chassis cab trucks in 2010. The reason for the difference is twofold. First, Dodge Ram pickups are certified for emissions differently than the heavier trucks, including the Dodge Chassis Cab trucks. Second, many pickup truck customers have different needs and different duty cycles than commercial truck customers, such as those buying Dodge Chassis Cab trucks. When selecting the best aftertreatment solution for the application, these differences lead to two different answers. It is important to note that DEF systems, called SCR elsewhere, have been in use in Europe for several years, so this is not a new technology. 2010 chassis cab owners will need to refill the DEF tank every few thousand miles, but should expect long-term durability in return.
CUMMINS COLUMN . . . . Continued Q. An astute TDR member noted an air conditioner refrigerant tag on a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500. The tag listed the various gasoline engines that power the Ram 1500 as well as a “5.0-liter diesel.” Can you tell us about the 1500 diesel program? A. No comment. Q. I often encounter the question of shutting down when the engine appears to be engaged in one of the regeneration modes. Occasionally, with this new 6.7 engine, the EGT is at 600° or higher as I shift the Aisin six-speed into Park. When the engine is in a regeneration mode, it takes a period of several minutes for the EGT to slowly drop to a tolerable shutdown temperature of 350°. I simply cannot allow myself to twist the key when the EGT is high. Cummins’ response? A. There is a table in the Diesel Supplement to the Owner’s Manual that provides guidelines on cool-down idle periods after loaded operation. Following that table is all that is needed.
Driving Condition
Load
Turbocharger Temperature
Idle Time (min.) Before Engine Shutdown
Stop and Go
Empty
Cool
Less than One
Stop and Go
Medium
Highway Speeds
Medium
City Traffic
Maximum GCWR
Three
Highway Speeds
Maximum GCWR
Four
Uphill Grade
Maximum GCWR
One Warm
Hot
Two
Five
As evidenced by this Q&A section, the “Ask the Engineer” section is open for business. Should you have 6.7-liter questions please forward them to me (rpatton@ix.netcom.com) for further discussions with our valued contacts at Cummins. Robert Patton TDR Staff
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BITW is a forum to report on industry trends and vehicle development. Compiled/written by Robert Patton. FORD AND NAVISTAR PART WAYS On January 14 the TDR’s web site posted a link to a Wall Street Journal article about Ford, Navistar and the settlement of their differences surrounding the engine supply contract for Ford’s Super Duty diesel pickup trucks. The article confirmed what TDR members have known would eventually transpire as the two companies had been in dispute for two years. Selected text from Transport Topics, January 19, 2009, provides further details. Quoting from TT, “Ford Motor and Navistar announced that Navistar would stop supplying diesel engines to Ford in January 2010, settling a two-year dispute. “The engine supply contract was originally due to last until 2012, according to court documents. “The agreement, announced in a joint release January 13, ends all existing litigation between the companies. As part of the agreement Ford will pay Navistar an undisclosed amount.
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“Navistar has been supplying diesel engines to Ford for about 30 years. The problems between the longtime partners became public in early 2007 when Ford sued Navistar, seeking payment for warranty work Ford claimed was needed because of problems with a new engine, a 6.0-liter V-8 diesel, developed to meet the 2004 diesel emission standards. “Ford also claimed that Navistar was charging too much for the next generation engine, a 6.4-liter V-8 developed as a fix for the problems in the 6.0-liter version. “Navistar countersued, claiming that Ford was violating their enginesupply agreement by developing its own diesel engine. “Marcy Evans, Ford spokeswoman, said the company would not discuss how it would replace the supply of diesel engines. The engines are used in Ford’s Super Duty line of trucks. In 2008, about 55% of the trucks were ordered with diesel engines, Evans said.” So, what say you, the TDR audience? Perhaps you find your neighbor is looking to replace his truck in 2010. Would you advise an unknown and unproven Ford diesel; a known supplier, but new engine in a GM truck; or the proven Cummins engine in a new Dodge chassis? We are only six months away from 2010. One can only wonder how this would affect Dodge/Cummins’ market penetration.
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2010 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 Heavy Duty and 3500/4500/5500 Chassis Cab Introduction by Steve St. Laurent Chrysler moved the introduction of the new Heavy Duty trucks back to their traditional location at the Chicago Auto Show this year. Below are links to a video of the entire press introduction as well as a gallery of pictures that I took at the show along with photographs supplied by Dodge. First, a little background information. I spoke with Joe Veltri about how the Dodge Ram has been doing in the market. The full size truck market typically represents 12-14% of industry sales. Last summer that percentage was down because of the extraordinarily high fuel prices but has since gone back to its normal level. Dodge’s share of the 3/4 and 1 ton market was at 22% in 2003. It hit a high point of 26% and is at 24% currently, so in the market as it stands, it has been selling well. Now in the diesel 3/4 and 1 ton market, Dodge currently holds a 32% market share. While industry wide sales are down, within the market segment the trucks are doing well. I also asked how the introduction of the 2009 1500 truck has gone, since the 2010 HD 2500/3500 trucks share many of its features. He said that it has been gaining market share and some of their sales data shows that on an ‘09 to ‘09 model comparison it actually outsold the F150 in a number of periods, which is a very big deal. 2500/3500 Heavy Duty Trucks Interior and Body There really isn’t much new information to report here. The HD trucks share most of the body and interior features with the 1500 introduced last year. See TDR Issue 60, page 120, for my thoughts on the 1500, and page 124 for Andy Mikonis’ write up.
2500 Crew Cab
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3500 Mega Cab
What is news is that they are keeping the Mega Cab. If you compare the Crew Cab short bed overall length at 237.4 inches and the Mega Cab short bed at 248.4 inches, you find that the cab is 11 inches longer. When I looked at the back seats there didn’t seem to be much difference in the rear seat leg room between the two. I was told there is 2.5” more leg room in the back seat of the Mega Cab. The rest of the space is devoted to storage space behind the rear seats and also allows the rear seats to recline from 22 to 37 degrees. The rear doors are identical between the Crew Cab and Mega Cab with the C pillar being larger on the Mega Cab. One of the complaints we have heard from TDR members was that the HVAC system was inadequate for the Mega Cab. It has been upgraded in the new trucks. There are now vents under the driver and passenger seats blowing rearwards and there are also vents in the back of the center console. The blower has been increased in size to accommodate these additional vents.
The more we see the cabin the more we like the new styling. It is world class.
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TDReview . . . . Continued There are new larger 7” x 11” trailer tow mirrors with integrated turn signals, memory function, and puddle lamps. They flip up and out in a vertical configuration for improved visibility around wide trailers. Trailer tow mirrors are now standard on the 3500.
Double your storage in the front.
Double your storage in the back.
There are going to be four different wheelbase trucks offered – a Regular Cab long bed (8’) at 140.5” wheelbase; a Crew Cab short bed (6’4”) at 149.5” wheelbase; a Crew Cab long bed (8’) at 169.5”; and the Mega Cab short bed (6’4”) at 160.5”. They will not be offering a Mega Cab long bed. The 3500 will be available as a dual rear wheel truck in the Regular Cab long bed, Crew Cab long bed, and Mega Cab short bed. It will be available as a single rear wheel truck in the Crew Cab short bed, Crew Cab long bed, and Mega Cab short bed.
There was quite a bit of talk about the styling of the heavy duty trucks being “set apart” from the 1500 stating, “the ‘big-rig’ styling is even more pronounced, with the classic Dodge look that conveys bold, powerful and capable.” Honestly, I don’t think that the styling is all that different. The grill is larger which necessitated a taller hood. There are also non functional louvers in the top of the hood. Then, of course, there are the fenders on the DRW model trucks which I think look great! However, they are all metal and a very complex shape which is going to be expensive to repair when you wipe one out on the post at the drive thru window. The trucks all look better in person than they do in pictures. Check out the picture gallery for pictures from a number of angles. I did my best to try to capture the prescence of the truck. Outside of those subtle differences, look back at the articles covering the 1500 introduction for discussion about the features of the truck’s new cabin interior.
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TDReview . . . . Continued Chassis and Drivetrain
Chassis Cab trucks
The frame is the same basic frame as in the Third Generation trucks. There have been suspension upgrades and there are also larger front axle U-joints. This has allowed a front axle GAWR increase to 5,500 lbs. (up from 5,200 lbs.) on four-wheel drive trucks and to 5,000 lbs. (up from 4,700 lbs.) on two-wheel drive trucks. The GVWR on 2500 four-wheel drive crew cab and Mega Cab models has increased to 9,600 lbs. (up from 9,000) as well. GCWR has increased to 25,400 lbs. (up from 24,000 lbs.) on 3500 DRW models equipped with an automatic transmission and the 4.10 rear axle. GCWR has increased to 24,000 lbs. (up from 23,000 lbs.) on 3500 two-wheel drive models.
The Chassis Cab trucks have all of the interior features identified above and are available in Regular Cab and Crew Cab models. The Mega Cab is not available in the Chassis Cab trucks. They also have four built in upfitter switches integrated into the instrumentation panel. Each of these four switches is linked to an auxiliary Power Distribution Center (PDC) located under the hood which includes one 20 amp battery feed and one fused relay-controlled 20-amp ignition feed.
A new feature that I think is a great addition is an integrated brake controller that is built into the dashboard. Trailer brake control information is conveniently displayed in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) in the center of the dash. While on the topic of the EVIC display, let us note that regeneration messages that were previously displayed on the overhead are now displayed here.
A 4500 Chassis Cab truck.
The optional Aisin six-speed automatic transmission now supports the Electronic Range Select that allows you to manually limit the highest available transmission gear. There are also two significant enhancements to the power take off (PTO) function on the Aisin. The torque converter now locks up in PTO mode for better fuel economy and speed control while using aerial lifts and air compressors. Customers also now have the ability to program a precise engine RPM that is activated immediately when the PTO is engaged. This eliminates the need to toggle up to the desired engine RPM.
Brake Controller
The fuel filter has been changed for the better and is going to feature a quarter turn knob on the top of the fuel filter assembly to allow for draining off water. This feature wasn’t on the display trucks so you won’t see it in the pictures, but I was assured it would be on the production trucks. The fuel filter is also a new two-stage design, as announced in Issue 63 of the magazine, and it can be retrofitted to earlier trucks (see page 50). Outside of the above changes, the rest of the chassis and drivetrain are the same as in the previous trucks. This means you have a chassis and drivetrain that have been in the field for a couple of years and a body and interior that have been in the field for a year. This should be a well sorted out introduction. These trucks are scheduled to arrive in the marketplace in the fall of 2009.
Big news on the Chassis Cab trucks is that the engine is now using urea injection utilizing Selective Catalyst Reduction (SCR) technology. There are pictures of this in the gallery below. There is a tank on the underside of the driver’s side of the cab and there is a blue fill cap to the rear of the cab. I asked about the usage rate of the urea fluid and was told that it burns at 1-2% depending on load conditions. The SCR system is behind the diesel particulate filter (DPF) on the exhaust and everything forward of this system is the same as before. The urea injection was necessary to meet the 2010 emissions requirements for the Chassis Cab trucks. Recent testing has shown best-in-class fuel economy, beating the F-550 by 14% and the GMC C5500 by 23%. Also best-in-class is a standard 24,000 lb. GCWR and an optional 26,000 lb. GCWR on the 3500 Chassis Cab. These trucks are also scheduled to arrive in the marketplace in fall of 2009. Steve St.Laurent TDR Webmaster
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NEED A DUALLY? What do you do when a perfect 3500 SRW truck sits in the driveway and a dually is now needed to pull a 48’ gooseneck trailer? Ken Goldwasser bought a road race ’88 Camaro in early 2005 and hired my company to maintain and transport it. In the fall of 2005 he bought a 28’ box trailer and a ’06, 3500 single rear wheel Mega Cab with a six-speed transmission and four-wheel drive. What a truck! It was loaded with every option but a sunroof. The dually option was not in production then and Ken’s parking space under his condo building was too small for a dually anyway. Fast forward to January of 2008. We have thrown the Geno’s catalog at this truck with Mag Hytec differential covers, Amp Research running boards, cupholders, etc. Now Ken lives where he has access to a large parking spot. He also now has a ’96 Mustang Cobra road racer and he purchased a 48’ gooseneck trailer to pull both cars. The only solution to this large trailer and load was to convert to dual rear wheels. With diligent searching, I found Arrowcraft Products makes dually adapters for hub centric or stud centered wheels and T.A.W. Manufacturing makes full size dually fenders for Mega Cabs with the short box. Arrowcraft supplied hub centric adapters and steel 17” wheels. The only problem that we noted was a slight rear caliper interference that was cured by placing .200” wheel spacers between the original hubs and adapters. Next was installation of the fender flares from T.A.W. Their fender flare kit came with all bolts and filler neck extensions. Carefully aligning one fender at a time, we drilled mounting holes and after
The wheel flares look like the flares used on the long box trucks.
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painting the fender flares we bolted the fenders on. WOW! What a difference in looks. Repositioning the filler neck was next. This part requires cutting a window in the original bed side to pass filler neck extensions through and extending filler and vent tubes. Instead of using the adapters in the kit, I elected to use new longer hoses because I keep them in stock and it makes a cleaner install. The only downside to a dually conversion with a short bed truck is that your gooseneck trailer must have a tapered nose, as Ken’s does, to miss the cab when turning. The upside is a great looking truck that handles much better. Did I also mention it’s great looking? Oh yeah, the price: how much did it cost to make the conversion? We started with the 17” wheels and adapters from Arrowcraft and that package was $840 for the seven steel wheels and $750 for the adapters. The seven tires were purchased locally. We then purchased the fender flare kit from T.A.W. at $895. Hindsight is 20/20, we could have purchased the entire kit from T.A.W. Regardless, this was not as expensive an undertaking as we initially expected. And, as you might expect (painters are often, shall we say, not reliable), the painting of the dually flares added an element of cost and time that was unexpected. George Doughtie Arrowcraft Products Gainesville, GA 5022 Leafdale Blvd. Royal Oak, MI 48073 248-280-0210 T.A.W. Manufacturing 6420 Rupley Cir. Houston, TX 77087 713-644-0497
Doughtie Automotive 8065 Jot Em Down Rd. Gainesville, GA 30506 770-886-3080
From this side picture you can see that the wheel flares are unique and designed for the short box (note the fuel fill door).
The Sun Coast complete transmission assembly offers you the ultimate in performance and durability, needed to deliver your diesel power to the ground. The Sun Coast transmission includes increased clutch count, rigid bands, steel planet carriers, pump modifications. All transmissions are rebuilt to exacting specifications with new bushings, seals, rings, frictions, and steels. All hard parts are inspected, machined, or replaced to meet our specifications. These blueprinted assemblies include the Sun Coast valve body. All transmissions are dyno tested to assure optimum pressure and flow calibrations.
Sun Coast converters are engineered for durability, reliability and performance. Special features are: • Increased cover thickness to eliminate pad and clutch area flex. • Increased clutch area, whether it is a single disk or our custom designed triple disk with patented clutch to turbine seal. • Custom built turbine splines and welded turbine vanes. • Custom machined stators to increase flow and torque from the pump to turbine.
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No problem, what can Sun Coast do for you?
Trucking Adventures with Automotive Journalist G.R. Whale Smoking…and not Diesel-fueled Like the editor, I am a cynic and don’t do positive very well. On the positive side, I have not yet been reduced to using words like “stratergery,” “positivity,” and “understandment” as he does. Think positive. Using this issue’s theme as an assignment, I did venture out in my truck the other day to “play.” The task involved following a buddy’s truck home, prepared to tow it if the engine’s inevitable demise happened sooner than later. Very quickly I was reminded how refined and quiet modern motor machinery is, and how I like the square corners and vent windows of old trucks. Soon I am further reminded why I like old trucks. By my own failure to properly re-secure a tool in the bed used weeks ago and an illplaced nasty bump, my rear positive battery cable goes direct to ground. I can smell it before I can see the smoke coming out the sides of the hood, and after the “thup” noise of a fuse going south, I decide the worst is over and find a place to have a look. To hear that thup over a firewall and running 12-valve meant it was a significant event. Think positive. Soot tracks make it easier to spot the problem right on top of the alternator where the offending battery cable goes one way and the other cable goes to the OE start battery. The metal strip roughly 3/8 x 1 x 1/16 inches thick that serves to bridge the dual outputs has become a very large fuse and been burnt to a crisp. The smoldering is done, the batteries are still fine, the regulator’s guts aren’t oozing all over the fender and it never got hot enough to trigger the automatic fire extinguisher underhood. Think positive. Being positive—no pun intended—we kept going on our retrieve-thebroken-truck mission. When everything sounds and smells normal ,and the only indication of a problem is a voltmeter that shows 12 rather than 14.2, there’s no point in stopping. I tried to save electrical power for another restart (the first when we stopped for inspection) by not using signals, power windows and such, but in reality turned off only the vent fan. Don’t even think now. I have yet to break a new truck’s charging system, but somehow I suspect the simplicity of the old one worked positively for me. We put two more engine starts on it, about 20 miles of travel and roughly an hour of run time with no functioning alternator and I’m not sure I could get away with that in a new truck. I am trying to think positive in that: a) someone has the parts and skills necessary to repair my aftermarket Delco-case alternator, b) my backup big-case alternator will fit without bracket changes, or c) that I still have my original alternator and bracketry somewhere. Just think, if I reinstall the original parts the engine controller will realize
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the alternator is back, become excited; and the “Check Engine” light might go off for the first time since 1993. This all happens on a weekend, so apart from digging up the old paperwork with model numbers I don’t expect to fix it. A quick web search indicates the company that built my part has been bought by another. Forget positive, I’m thinking beer. Slightly dirty, the sun is well over the yardarm and both my and my buddy’s trucks are home, so the fridge and magazines that are in my mail pile are next. And I got all of ten pages done before being positive took another hit. I swear, those motivational speakers you see or hear every so often must be on something. Positive on a Bigger Scale/Fiat and Chrysler This assignment came in and the results here came out the same day President Obama was inaugurated as the 44th. It was quite amusing to read assignment details and later hear many of the same buzzwords (consumer confidence, good news, reality, etc.) in Obama’s inauguration speech. So I guess Obama did the right thing and took the editor’s phone call over the holiday weekend. Another beer later and I’ll be positive for the remainder of the day. I promise. And this all followed the word that Chrysler and Fiat signed a nonbinding agreement, in which Fiat gets a third of Chrysler for no money. Their plan is a “strategic alliance” that would provide Fiat an initial 35-percent stake in Chrysler, without Fiat investing any cash. And why should they. The U.S. government has our tax dollars as cash to invest. Oops. Sorry. Think positive. Okay, there’s some merit to this idea. It ain’t perfect but Cummins doesn’t build car companies. In terms of product, Fiat is to Italy what GM is to the U.S., what VW is to Germany, what Renault or Peugeot is to France, and what Toyota is to Japan. Fiat SpA is Italy’s largest manufacturer and builds a variety of everyday cars suitable for most people, plus commercial vehicles, and, like some of those named above, has an interest in or association with more premium brands like Alfa Romeo, Maserati and Ferrari. Fiat Auto and GM have had a relationship, but it’s been rather stormy and GM doesn’t have a controlling interest; GM paid $2 billion to escape a put-option that might have left GM with Fiat as well, though Fiat has done better than GM recently. At this moment there’s been no comment from GM about any potential alliance between Chrysler and Fiat. And this latest alliance may allow Daimler to unload their remaining 19.9% of Chrysler direct to Fiat. So if Fiat gets a 35% stake from Chrysler and buys 20% from Daimler….
FOUR WHALING . . . . Continued So what could become of Chrysler and Fiat working together? First and most obviously it makes each company greater and economies of scale on “globalization” often favor bigger companies. It might get Chrysler out from under Cerberus “dumb-ass management” although pessimists might not view Fiat management any more highly. And a dark Chrysler 300SRT-8 would make a great ride for La Cosa Nostra. It would give Chrysler in-roads to a broader European market, something they’ve been desperate to do for some time—few going concerns make cars for one country outside China and Russia. Likewise it would give Fiat a leg up in restarting North American sales and distribution. Ferrari and Maserati are already here, Alfa Romeo is working on it (the C8 and Spider should be first), and Fiat certainly has some cars that would sell here. Among these is the new 500 that is a legitimate competitor to the BMW MINI for something small, economical, fun, and a measure of retro style. Both companies would share vehicle platforms and technology, most of which is completely transparent to the owner anyway. You can’t tell a Volvo S40 driver they are driving a Mazda 3 or Ford Focus, but the platforms are related and things like this example happen all over the auto world. Bits like electronic architectures, air conditioners, and seats can be engineered once for similar-size cars and upholstered to match the brand and price later. Fiat has small cars covered, including respectable 1.3 and 1.9-liter turbodiesels (if the E85 lobby hasn’t bought all of Congress yet) and a host of good gas engines of less than 3 liters. Beyond the 500 some Fiats tend to look rather generic, but Alfa Romeo is widely regarded for styling and I can’t be alone in thinking the Sebring, Avenger and Caliber missed the target in that respect. And Fiat has a lot of small commercial vehicles including vans that would compete with the likes of the (Mercedes-Benz sourced) Sprinter, Ford’s coming-to-the-U.S. Transit, and every Renault and Nissan that Nissan can adapt to the U.S. market. Chrysler doesn’t have a lot of mainstream product that Fiat can use. It might be fun to pit a Viper against a Lamborghini Gallardo police car (they do have them), but otherwise the product exported would likely be Jeep, minivan and electric sports cars when/if they make production. I think this idea has some promise. First it has to get past the usual army of accountants and the U.S. Treasury since they’ll be giving Chrysler’s finance arm $1.5B to generate showroom traffic. Second, as a nonbinding agreement it means nothing has been set in ink this inauguration day. Third, it is qualified as an initial stake in Chrysler, which means it may get bigger, and if it got big enough for Cerberus to bail, Chrysler’s future looks even better. And let’s not forget that any good news regarding Chrysler may get more buyers into U.S. showrooms as they realize the company is not going away right after they buy a car or truck. G.R. Whale TDR Writer
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A Review of Previously Discussed/ Frequently Asked Questions by Jim Anderson I have been appointed (elected, selected, condemned?) to write a column dedicated to member questions. Member questions range from old users with new problems to new members who are unfamiliar with the care of their pride and joy. The column reviews frequently asked questions and member feedback to deliver the best solutions. We decided to call the column “Idle Clatter.” If you don’t get my meaning, go stand next to your truck when it’s running. I am also available to answer your questions. Call the TDR offices and they will relay the message. I can best be reached by e-mail at j.t.anderson@worldnet.att.net and will promptly respond. THEME When Turbo Diesel Register editor Robert Patton was a kid, his mother often told him to turn off the TV set and go out and play. That’s good advice, since you can’t get much exercise in front of the Telly. We writers are now told to do the same thing. We watch the media beat a subject to death while they fill the vast 24/7 maw of time with the unsavory, the unpleasant, and often the unspectacular that is called “news.” What the news really provides is a filler between commercials, the grease that makes the stations money. When the “Breaking News” sign comes on your TV, it often isn’t news, just another way of filling time, although the footage of Sully Sulenberger landing flight 1549 on the Hudson River was surely a good case of breaking news as we watched him perform a masterful job of airmanship. But, the same video clip repeated endlessly for the next 24 hours… In the midst of our economic woes, I hear of TDR members buying new trucks. That shows confidence in the future and that good deals are to be had today. New products are still being introduced, new businesses started, and small businesses are the fastest growing segment of our economy, despite all the negative news to the contrary.
In the midst of our economic woes, I hear of TDR members buying new trucks. That shows confidence in the future and that good deals are to be had today.
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SHORT TAKES QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Call this part of the column a series of “short takes,” member questions from which we can learn, with my brief answers included. Off Highway Fuel Turbo Diesel Register member Paul Avis wrote to say he was stopped at a checkpoint in North Carolina where all diesel trucks were being inspected to ensure they were using on-road fuel rather than the red dyed off-road fuel which is not taxed. The consequences of being caught using non-tax paid fuel, which is dyed red in the lower 48 states, can result in a federal penalty of up to $10,000 for every day you can’t prove you bought on-road fuel. This would be an expensive lesson to learn while trying to save a few bucks by running non-taxed fuel! Paul’s fuel was the proper type, so he was soon on his way again. CI-4 Lube Oil Member Pat McQuade wrote asking why he can no longer find Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 Cl-4 rated engine oil. The answer is that Shell and all other refiners are offering only CJ-4 rated oils and eliminating stocks of the former CI-4 oils. Shell says the CJ-4 oil is backward compatible for use in all previous engines made by all companies. Shell and all other oil companies seek to keep the number of different oils they inventory and sell to a minimum. This lessens the expense of stocking, shipping, and marketing an overlapping variety of products. Remember that CJ-4 is the required oil for use in all diesel engines made after 1/1/07. Earlier engines can use earlier rated oils such as those with a CI-4 classification, but can also use CJ-4 oil, so retailers see little reason to offer both types. Tow/Haul Overdrive Lockout TDR member Mike Keiler and I had previously corresponded about his inability to lock out overdrive in the automatic transmission on his 2005 truck. Dodge had added a tow/haul feature to this model but had deleted OD lockout. In Issue 62, page 66, I noted that there is a TSB #21-006-07 which involves a computer reflash to solve this problem so that the 48RE transmission operates in both modes. This dual feature became standard on 2006 models. Mike says there’s some confusion in the posts about this TSB on the TDR website, and is concerned that after the reflash, in Tow/Haul mode, his transmission’s torque converter clutch won’t lock up in 4th gear. To clarify, when the O/D button is pushed, 4th gear will be disabled. When Tow/Haul is engaged, 4th gear is enabled with the converter clutch locked, and a modified transmission shift schedule is also enabled.
IDLE CLATTER . . . . Continued NV4500 Woes Charlie Mitchell wrote that the 5th gear had gone out in his NV4500 five-speed manual transmission and wanted to know if there was a better fix than what has been available in the aftermarket for some years. The problem is that the overdrive driven gear works loose from the transmission output mainshaft, slides back on the shaft, and you suddenly have an added neutral position in your transmission where 5th gear used to be. This won’t normally disable your truck, as you can still drive home in 4th gear. The repair seems to work best if a new fully splined output mainshaft is installed along with a new output mainshaft gear and new crush washer and nut. Though this method of repair is more complicated and involves removal of the transmission from the truck to install the shaft, the repair is then more permanent. Follow the repair/replacement instructions carefully. New fully splined output shafts are available through several TDR aftermarket advertisers, including Blumenthals and Standard Transmission. Differential Oil Robert McGown wrote inquiring about the best lube to use for a rear axle oil change on his 2003 truck with an American Axle. I always suggest using the grade of lube recommended in the Owner’s Manual that came with the truck. As a general rule, a synthetic 75W90 or 75W-140 will work well in all rear axles used in Dodge trucks from 1989 to present. Use the 75W-140 if you tow heavy loads. The most important thing to remember is that regular changes of axle lube using a synthetic gear oil ensures long life of a hard-working assembly, especially in towing use. The Dana axles used in earlier Dodge trucks came with a factory fill of petroleum based gear oil, but specified that synthetic gear oil be used for all later fluid changes. The American Axles come with a factory fill of synthetic oil. Additives, Again Wyatt Hibbs wanted my opinion about the use of Lucas Products additives in his truck. He said he uses Lucas in all of his vehicles. I have no personal opinion, but know a few members who are convinced it helps their trucks in various ways to use these and other additive products. The only additive I ever purchase is an anti-gelling fuel treatment for cold weather operation, especially when I’m filling up with fuel in a warm area and driving into a cold one during winter. I am concerned that any oil treatment’s additives may conflict with the oil additives added by the maker of the lube, and that the chemical conflict could cause degradation of the lube. You may or may not agree with the editor’s thoughts that you’ll find on page 52.
condition would lead to extended cranking times and hard starting, too. A new set of fuel injectors may also be needed to bring his truck fully up to par. Bad Brew – Diesel and Gasoline Matthew Kreiling wrote asking if adding a gallon of diesel fuel to 20 gallons of gasoline in his car would increase the octane rating of the gasoline. I answered that gas and diesel fuel are rated using two different methods. The octane rating for gas is resistance to pre-ignition while the cetane rating for diesel fuel is its ability to spontaneously ignite under high compression pressure and high temperature. The two fuels are mutually exclusive and adding diesel fuel to gasoline is wrong. Adding gasoline to diesel fuel in your truck’s tank in an amount greater than 2% by volume can create an explosive mixture, both in the combustion chamber and also in the diesel fuel tank, which is not designed the same as a gas tank. His car won’t run better on diesel fuel, and his truck won’t run better on gasoline. Electrical Disconnect Ian Phillips wrote asking for a solution to his vexing problem. In cold weather he plugs in the block heater, but has apparently forgotten several times to disconnect the extension cord before starting his engine and leaving his home. That’s pretty hard on an extension cord and he asked if there is an automatic-eject plug he could use that would automatically disconnect the extension cord from his truck when it is started. Kussmaul makes an automatic-eject plug that can be mounted on his truck. It uses a solenoid and plunger wired to the ignition circuit to kick the plug out of the socket when the ignition key is turned on. It is primarily used on fire trucks and ambulances, and it is big and expensive. Perhaps it would be simpler(and less expensive) to wrap the extension cord around the driver side door handle or rear view mirror as a reminder to disconnect it before entering the truck. Help With a 6.7 Engine Dan Skillman e-mailed asking if something further could be done to help his 2008 truck run better. The dealer has replaced the turbocharger and the truck already has the G-30 software update. I suggested he drive the truck at highway speeds at least once a week to keep everything well blown out. These types of problems are prevalent with all trucks meeting the latest diesel emissions standards and seem to be much more common during cold weather, regardless of the engine’s duty cycle.
Cold Start
Safe Engine Shutdown
Norm Goldstein wrote asking why his 2000 truck is becoming increasingly hard to start in cold weather, and once started, runs rough and smokes a lot until it warms up. I suggested the intake manifold heater grid starting assist system should be fully checked out. Perhaps there’s a solenoid failure, or the manifold heater isn’t working properly. It is also possible his truck with 188K on the odometer also has a slight air leak in the fuel system, allowing fuel to drain from the injection pump while parked overnight. This
Another member called me who had recently bought a 2009 truck and immediately installed boost pressure and exhaust gas temperature (EGT) gauges. He noted with alarm that the EGT was usually in the 1,100 degree range, often running higher. And he noted it took seemingly forever at idle speed to cool down enough to shut the engine down at 300 degrees EGT, as had been his procedure with his previous Dodges. He wanted to know what is a safe maximum EGT and what was the problem with his shutdown TDR 64
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IDLE CLATTER . . . . Continued procedure that he’d always followed. According to Cummins, the 6.7-liter engine can briefly see maximum EGT of 1450 degrees as measured in the exhaust manifold. Since the diesel particulate trap in the exhaust system can be in its regeneration mode at any time the engine is running, it is possible for the EGT to be upwards of 900 degrees at engine idle speed during DPF regeneration. To meet the increased turbocharger heat potential, the turbocharger bearings are now water cooled, and after a normal cool down period of 1-3 minutes, the engine can be safely shut off without turbocharger damage, regardless of a high EGT reading. For more commentary, see page 57. Sensor Replacement Member Mark Anderson e-mailed to say the crankshaft position sensor on his ’99 truck had failed and wanted to know where it is and how to replace it. The sensor is located behind the starter on the driver side of the engine, which makes it kind of tough to access without removing the starter. The starter bolts are 10 mm 12 point heads, and the top one is not fun to get to. On most 24-valve 5.9-liter engines there are two sensors, the second one being located near the VP-44 fuel injection pump or the fuel high pressure CP3 pump in the rear of the front gearcase cover. I believe that all 6.7-liter engines use two sensors. I suggested to Mark that he first check the sensor plug(s) for corrosion on the pins. Sometimes a good cleaning restores CPS operation without the cost of replacing the sensor. Sensors are available as parts from Cummins and Dodge. Front Wheel Bearings Leonard Langley wrote asking about front wheel bearings on his 1996 truck, saying he understood they are a cartridge type that can’t be serviced. On trucks earlier than 2001 models, the front wheel bearings are serviceable in the field and should be removed, cleaned, and repacked with a high quality high temperature grease every so often. I recommend bearings be serviced at least every 5 years/100,000 miles in normal on-road use, and more often under adverse conditions. After 2001, Dodge went to a cartridge type front wheel bearing package that’s said to be “lubed for life”. When this type of bearing fails, it is replaced with a new package. TDR members have reported cartridge bearing failures in as little as 40,000 miles in four-wheel drive models under adverse conditions. Battery Drain Karla Romeo asked what could be draining the batteries on her 1996 truck. Her husband has replaced the battery cables and starter relay. They charge the batteries every night, but they’re dead by morning. Karla said they’re out of ideas and so far there has been no cure. I suggested connecting a volt/ohmmeter or amp gauge between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable to measure amperage or current draw with the engine off. There will always be some current being drawn from the batteries to maintain radio station pre-sets and computer memory, so the reading may be as much as one-half amp, but never zero. If there is excess current
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draw with the ignition off, you can start pulling fuses, disabling one circuit at a time to see if the meter reading drops substantially. If so, further investigation of that circuit is indicated. First, check all circuits that don’t go through the ignition switch and are therefore on at all times, such as a glovebox light, stoplights, etc. Check the solenoids controlling the intake manifold heaters. This large power consuming circuit can easily kill batteries in a short time, and corrosion from the battery tray above the solenoid location on the driver side can cause wiring shorts. Karla wrote back later telling me they cured their truck’s problem, but it required fixing three things. The first was a bad battery, the second problem was bad grid heater solenoids under the battery box, so they replaced both. And the third problem was a bad starter. They’re now really happy with their truck again! Grease Fittings Another TDR member inquired about how many grease fittings there are on a 2004 truck with four-wheel drive. Most of these trucks have a grease fitting on the U joint in the front driveshaft. It is a non-standard fitting that uses a needle type grease fitting that should be lubed at every oil change. See Issue 62, page 31, for a clear picture and description of this fitting. Earlier model trucks may also have grease fittings in the steering linkage and in ball joints located just inboard of the front brake rotors. It is important to inspect the front suspension system and all driveshafts on any recently acquired truck to find grease fittings, as number and location varies from year to year and even within a year model. If a U joint has been replaced in the rear driveshaft, chances are the aftermarket joint has a grease fitting even if no fitting was to be found on the OEM joint installed at the factory. Clean the Radiator? Member Mike Nicholson wrote to say his 1996 truck has always run pretty cool, with the gauge staying in the lower half of its range. Recently it indicated a much warmer temp, then dropped quickly when the cooling fan engaged, only to rise again after the fan switched off. He took the truck to his favorite shop and was told it was either the cooling system thermostat or possibly a bad head gasket. He wanted another opinion based on the symptoms. Changing behavior of a gauge almost always means something’s not right. It could be the gauge or a faulty gauge sender. I suggested he check the viscous drive fan clutch for proper operation and also check the water pump, while also flushing and cleaning the cooling system. On a 12 year old truck with 127,000 miles on it, it could be that the radiator is clogged with debris. This problem has been discussed often with the most recent reference in Issue 58, page 30. Either case could cause the mentioned symptoms and should be fully investigated before going through the detailed testing and teardown required to determine if there is a head gasket failure, which would also be the most expensive to fix. Jim Anderson TDR Writer
IDLE CLATTER . . . . Continued RUST IN AUXILIARY FUEL TANK?
CI4+ VERSUS CJ OILS
I plan to buy an auxiliary fuel tank, but many brands are not coated on the interior. Is this a concern if you run a tank of fuel through it once a month or more? Steved
What does CI4+ have over CJ rated engine oil? It already looks like CI4+ is more scarce than the CJ-4 variety. Ron Dietze
It doesn’t get too cold, nor humid in Las Vegas, Nevada, but I had a tremendous rusting problem with an aftermarket steel tank that was not coated inside. Transfer Flow uses aluminized steel and I have had no problems at all with their tanks. Joe Donnelly HYDROGEN FOR MILEAGE? I read an article promoting hydrogen generators for gas and diesel engines. One vendor said that I could get up to 100% increase in fuel economy and approximately 100hp increase. Is this reasonable? Don Angelechio Do you remember the second law of thermodynamics? Forget about “perpetual motion” machines, regardless of the half-science and hype used to promote them, and whether they appear to give “motion” or do some other kind of “work” seemingly for free. If you want greater driving range, I recommend investing in a Transfer Flow or similar fuel tank system. Conventional, proven technology is much safer for your engine and your wallet. Joe Donnelly
The differences in these two “generations” of engine oils were discussed in detail in TDR Issue 57, page 56 and Issue 58, page 52. In general, the additives in the earlier formulation, CI4+, are much better, but not as compatible with the particulate trap emissions device on the new engines. Oil companies want to “standardize” for simplicity of production and inventory on the new CJ specification oil. Joe Donnelly CHANGING THE SERPENTINE BELT In changing my serpentine belt, I found that the only thing you have to get the belt around is the 1/4 inch or so gap on the back side of the tensioner pulley. I started up in the left corner (facing truck), and weaved the belt across the front of the motor from left to right, above the crank pulley, below the fan pulley. Then I draped it over the top right pulley like I had the left side top pulley. Then comes the tensioner pulley, and you need a tool to hold the pulley against its spring tension. Does anyone make a good tool to do this? ChrisKringle Lisle makes a long flat arm tool with several different inserts, including 3/8” and 1/2” square, #57900. Joe Donnelly
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Esoteric Dissertations on Manure Shoveling by John Holmes Our editor says to be positive in these negative times and think about what your mother told you as a kid. That was a long time ago, but I do remember the phrase, “Never look back, always look to the future and where you’re going. Don’t worry about what you should-a, could-a, would-a done. Focus on how you’re going to do things better tomorrow.” That’s a good philosophy for all of us to have in these lousy economic times. See, there I go, falling back on the negative side. Last Issue One of the few positive automotive headlines I’ve seen recently is, “Ford Rethinks Truck Pullback.” Ford cut truck production too deeply when gasoline prices soared and now that fuel is down…guess what…pickups and SUVs are selling again. Yep, Ford, GM and Chrysler have all seen an up-tick in sales of the so-called gas guzzlers. The new Ram 1500 and Ford F-150 models are moving off lots at a rate better than most predicted. Some people who bought pickups just to look cool are rethinking that mode of basic transportation, but those who, like ourselves, really need a truck are going to keep on buying them. As we were coming back home from Lukenbach, rolling through the Texas hill country, with about 10,000 pounds of hay and pellets in the trailer, we passed a well known hybrid going uphill. I thought to myself, now there’s just what I need to get the job done! Well, since Issue 63, Chrysler has been getting more media ink than Britney Spears and Paris Hilton combined. Unfortunately, it hasn’t been positive. (Sorry about that, Robert: I’m just reporting the facts, so don’t shoot the messenger.) After the plea for bailout money, things have gotten interesting. First it was a merger with GM and now it’s Fiat? Of course that’s only if Cerberus gets another $3 billion from Congress and they don’t have to put up any money to get 35% of the business…such a deal! Heck, Fiat is in just as bad of a financial shape as Chrysler. Fiat’s CEO Sergio Marchionne says his company will give Chrysler $3 billion in expertise. When was the last time you saw a Fiat that you absolutely had to have? Cerberus and Daimler continue to squabble over their 80/20 deal and who should pay for what. Employees are nervous as layoffs continue. Chrysler is shuttering three plants, including one that makes the Ram in the St. Louis area.
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The company announced that it will start charging new fees to dealers for unsold vehicles. That’s interesting. They get kicked in the teeth by the factory for vehicles they can’t sell because Chrysler Financial (now a separate company) won’t finance the vehicle their potential customer wants to buy? I guess Chrysler Financial needs to call itself a “bank”, like GMAC did, and get some more Congressional cash too. “Why Detroit Has an Especially Bad Union Problem” was one of the many Wall Street Journal (WSJ) stories written by those trying to figure out what has gone wrong with the US auto industry and what the fix should be. Another headline read, “Chrysler Set to Push Dealers to Buy More.” A reliable source told me that at a recent Dallas factory/dealer meeting the message basically boiled down to, either order more new cars from us or dump your dealership. This occurs as some towns are comming to the financial aid of dealerships due to the significant economic contribution they provide to their communities. Many dealers who can’t sell their franchise find their greatest asset is the land their shop sits on. It’s tough when sales have plummeted 55%. Motor Trend had an interesting breakout of the movers and shakers around the automobile industry. Of course Bob Nardelli, Chrysler CEO; Jim Press, President; and Ralph Gilles, Design Chief were shown in the “Power List 2009 – The 20 People to Watch.” They said they were glad to see Gilles elevated to the chief designer position, but wondered if it might be too late. The 2011 Dodge Charger is supposed to be a knockout. Jim Press’s caption read, “Not the Early Retirement He Planned.” Ouch, that after 37 successful years at Toyota. It was worse for Nardelli: “He Will Be A Passenger From Here On.” They cited his Congressional testimony where he basically said Cerberus was seriously considering getting out of the auto business unless there was federal aid. One of the best summaries of the Chrysler situation came from Paul Ingrassia as he described “An Auto Show for Congress” in the WSJ. He said Chrysler was a company with a great tradition and a storied history. He cited how “Chrysler invented the minivan, popularized the Jeep, and basically defined the corporate comeback with resurrection from near-death led by Lee Iacocca in the 1980s. The two men who currently share the titles of vice chairman and president, Jim Press and Tom LaSorda, are talented executives with remarkable records of accomplishment at other car companies.” He goes on to say, “But at Chrysler, these two men inherited years of neglect by Daimler-Benz, which had owned Chrysler during the decade before Cerberus, that was compounded by the naiveté and unfortunate timing of the New York private-equity financiers.” Oh my, not a bright picture as I write this in mid-February. We shall see. I hope my Issue 65 column in TDR has happier tales.
RANCH DRESSING . . . . Continued Equipping the “New” ’99 – The Continuing Saga Before I jump off on further modifications to the TDR Project Truck, with a goal of improving economy, reliability and safety, let me say this. John Martin had a fantastic article in the last issue on page nine about fuel economy. He was right on! I use vortex generators, synthetic lubes throughout and a bunch of other tricks in an effort to eke out that last fraction of a mile per gallon.
I love the little 3 Circuit Top Tap Connectors for the battery. Add another nut on the positive terminal so you don’t have to loosen the battery clamp to add the connection. It makes it so easy to hook up another electrical do-hickey.
Those are things on the positive side of the issue; however, sometimes you need to add things to the truck that go in a negative direction. A good example is the brush guard we added to the wife’s ’03 (see Issue 60). It’s nearly a necessity here in the Texas hill country when, on average, you have six Bambis run out in front of you on the way home from an evening in Kerrville. However, the down-side is that sucker knocked off almost one MPG at freeway speeds! It’s not a big deal around town, but on the highway, aerodynamic principles come into play…big time. I reiterate these points because, as I speak of changes in fuel economy from the modifications on the ’99, I want you to know why I get so nervous stating exact MPG figures. There are just so many variables involved. I’ve had to establish all new economy baseline figures here at our winter home, compared to the averages I saw in the high desert of Nevada, so I could accurately track changes in performance with the addition of some new item. Here, our average speeds are higher due to higher limits and more interstate driving. Then there’s an altitude change from 4700 to 2100—and don’t forget temperature, humidity and air density. Yep, both trucks dropped about 0.8 MPG on average. Keep these things in mind when you wonder why your rig doesn’t demonstrate the same performance that you might read/hear about in someone else’s truck. Now, on to documenting changes since the last time. Before jumping off into the major stuff to install, let’s talk about a couple of easy things that improved the rig. First, the truck had splash guards on just the back and I wanted to get protection from gravel beating off the paint on all lower body panels. On went a nice set of Dodge/Cummins splash guards, both front and back.
Another protection/safety item is the Step Shields Kit. Scuffing the paint on the door sills aside, have you ever, with wet feet, slipped off the sill while washing/wiping the windshield? Your chin catches the drip molding just before your feet hit terra firma. Line the Step Shield up on the first “notch” in the sill at the hinge end.
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RANCH DRESSING . . . . Continued Does dust get you coughing or does pollen start you sneezing? Keep “cedar fever” at bay with the Cab Fresh Filter Kit.
BD Transmission Modifications Now for the performance stuff. I’ve used a lot of BD stuff in the past, and given the excellent track record, it was a no-brainer to look to them for a transmission upgrade. With the installation of an exhaust brake on an automatic, you need to consider beefing up the transmission. As usual, with big jobs like this, I turned the truck over to Carson Dodge and their very capable transmission tech, Larry. The total package consisted of a BD Transmission Pan, Torque Converter, PressureLoc and Valve Body.
Easy to install if you use those little Scotch Mounting Squares to hold the filter material in place until everything is tightened down. The instructions forgot to say that you’ll need a Torx bit (TX-30) to get those goofy plastic fasteners off (a cordless screwdriver helps too). A great safety item is the Backoff Safety Module. That little puppy flashes your cab-high third brake light with three shorts and then one long. Obnoxious by design, but it really gets the attention of those behind you. And finally, the Brite Box… Back in 1956 I flunked pilot training due to poor night vision, and, unlike whiskey, I haven’t improved with age. As a result, I like having that “both-beam advantage” the Brite Box gives me on my midnight moonshine runs (just kidding).
Check out all of these items on www.genosgarage.com or 800-755-1715.
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First we mounted the PressureLoc on the side of the transmission and ran all of the hoses/wires up into the engine compartment. Instructions and pictures were very good. Pay particular attention to the section on Spool Valve Maintenance to ensure you will have trouble-free operation for years to come. The only hiccup was that one part was mislabeled. It said it was for a 12-valve, but the part number verified is was really for the ’99’s 24-valve.
RANCH DRESSING . . . . Continued The PressureLoc increases the transmission line pressure, whenever the lock-up clutch is engaged, to prevent slippage or shudder. This device applies pressure to 90% of what the valve body is capable of achieving at full throttle, when you’re actually only at ¼ to ¾ throttle. This increases the pressure on the clutch to around 100 psi on the stock 47 RE transmission, up from about 75 psi. Since we’re going to install the BD Valve Body too, the maximum figure will rise to around 125 psi. Note: Rather than doing a series of road tests to achieve optimum pressure settings, while the truck is on the lift, have someone sit in the cab and operate the controls for the technician: first, at idle, with transmission in Drive; then while in Drive take it up to 1800 rpm with the torque converter locked up and overdrive locked out; and finally, in Drive at 1700 with the converter locked up and overdrive engaged. This allows the tech to make BD’s recommended settings in a couple of minutes instead of multiple trips out on the highway all the while muttering not-so-nice things under his breath.
Next comes the component that is the weakest link in the drivetrain’s chain of parts. The stock torque converter and its lockup clutch needs to be beefed up if you’re going to use an exhaust brake or increase horsepower/torque. Boy, what a difference there is in the BD Torque Converter and the stock unit when you set them side-by-side. You can’t see the better clutch design, but you sure can see the billet housing. That prevents flexing of the cover so that the lockup clutch always has a flat surface to engage. If that surface flexes, the clutch will slip and you’re on your way to a torque converter replacement.
Stock/stamped-steel on left, BD/billet on right.
The last stage is slapping on the BD Transmission Pan. Please review my column in the last issue where Mopar recommends the use of the thick neoprene gasket instead of the thin paper unit and the “enclosed” filter instead of the “open” type. Also, be sure to use a high quality automatic transmission fluid that meets the specification of Mopar’s ATF+4. Note: The number one cause of transmission vibration is the failure to prepare the crankshaft for installation. Each time the converter is installed without sanding off the crankshaft rust, removing the paint from the converter pilot and adding a little grease, the converter may be drawn up crooked with the first bolt. This may cause the converter to run-out and will usually ruin the pump bushing. The second most common complaint on converters is a whine after installation. This usually means there is too much clearance between the converter pads and the flex plate. This draws the converter hub too far out of the pump drive gear causing the gear to “rock.” Next the new BD Valve Body was installed. Again, good instructions and pictures. Also, various settings/tests can be done in the same manner as described above. Be careful in changing out the second gear band strut to the new BD heavy duty model. If your truck has the quick-disconnect Teflon fittings on the oil flow lines, be sure to change them out to the new style fittings. The old style fittings are prone to failure. The new ones prevent them from blowing off, which would cause you to lose all of your transmission fluid, and that could ruin your whole day!
The improvement in this transmission upgrade is hard to describe. The shifts are much more positive. I like the way the transmission up shifts sooner at very light throttle. I like the way it locks up in third going up and down in the gears. I like the way it grabs second, or even first, plus lockup, if you lock out overdrive. Of course this provides another benefit if you use an exhaust brake, because the brake’s black box senses torque converter lockup and applies the brake on deceleration. Complete details can be found on www. dieselperformance.com or 800-887-5030.
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RANCH DRESSING . . . . Continued PacBrake Installation Speaking of exhaust brakes… We’re using a PacBrake on the ’94, a BD on the ’03, a Banks on the ’02, and a PacBrake for this ’99 truck. All of them have worked well. Basically you’re just closing off the exhaust to assist in slowing down. As time goes by, technology constantly changes, thereby improving the product. This particular PacBrake unit is without a doubt the best, most effective one on any of our trucks. I’m sure the other companies have improved their brakes too, but in comparison to our other rigs, all with automatics, the PacBrake Maximum Exhaust Flow PRXB Exhaust Brake (part# C44075) is an awesome device. First, many manufacturers start off telling you to T-tap this or that wire to get an ignition-on 12-volt power source. If you reread my article in Issue 62, you’ll see the right way to handle your need for power sources. Yeah, get one of the auxiliary fuse panels in Geno’s catalog and then you won’t be trying to tap into various wiring looms seeking B+. Also, the 3-Circuit Top Tap Connector on the battery makes things go fast and easy for the high power leads needed for the brake. Pick a good spot on the dash to mount the brake’s ON-OFF switch. The instructions were good with just a slight boo-boo. That was where they said the connector was located to pick up throttle position data, which PacBrake has since corrected. (On the ’99 it’s between the injector pump and the vacuum pump.) Be very careful when you tap into the Powertrain Control Module. In addition to the dialog on how to interface with the truck’s electronics, there’s an excellent schematic in the back which really gives you a good overall picture of where all of the cotton-picking wires go. The only criticism I have on the PacBrake kit is the degree of difficulty for the installation. It was the most time consuming exhaust brake installation that either I or Carson Dodge’s specialist, Eric, has ever seen. As the package stands, it isn’t a shade-tree operation due to welding on the exhaust pipe. However, there’s good news. PacBrake is developing a full downpipe (as opposed to the short adapter they now include) to make the installation much easier. Of course one of the things that extended the installation time was all of the air goodies they include with the kit.
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Yep, you get a cute little zipper bag with a length of “curly” air hose, tire gauge, tire chuck, blow gun, Teflon tape, etc. This all hooks up with quick-connect fittings to an air line mounted under the hood so you can air-up your tires or whatever. An air tank and compressor feed this and, of course, operate the brake. You mount these items in some interesting places. The air compressor mounts on the top of the cross member just behind the cab, (under the bed) that supports the rear of the fuel tank. The air solenoid mounts inside a cut-out in the frame rail on the passenger side. The tank mounts on the same frame rail except on the outside. That is one item that concerned me a little for those of you who do a lot off-roading. The tank could be hit by a big rock while you’re negotiating the famous Rubicon trail. Of course, our two-wheel drive doesn’t do much except run up and down Interstate 10. Heck, down here in Texas they pave EVERYTHING, even what would be listed as a trail in Nevada. Now that we’ve got all of the ancillary equipment mounted, we move on to the installation of the brake itself. Here’s where the problem lies. The instructions say to “remove” the header pipe. You don’t remove the header pipe after it has been crimped ¼” by the factory air impact guns. Also, there’s the little item of rust and corrosion over the last nine years. You cut the pipe and maybe even the bell housing exhaust pipe support bracket and then weld them back up afterwards. You see, PacBrake provides you with either of two exhaust adapters that go on the back of the brake, then you weld the flange to the shortened header pipe. There’s one for the stock 3” pipe and a 4” model for those running an aftermarket exhaust system. The trick is hanging this all together loosely so you mark where the adapter mates to the header pipe. It took Eric and me about ¾ of a day to put this whole package together. I anxiously await the arrival of the new header pipe kits that will bolt to the brake and hang down under the truck where you can work on it. How about a deep expanded end on the pipe with slots cut in it? You’d just cut the stock pipe off at a predetermined point and then slide the cut-off end into the new down pipe. You’d have plenty of room for adjustment and when you got it all lined up, just tighten the clamp on the joint. That’d be cool. The PacBrake control unit has a built-in warm-up feature. When the switch is turned on, the brake will be on at idle until the coolant temperature reaches 170 degrees. The big casting design of the brake really provides for a better flow of exhaust gases. In fact, they sell the head minus the exhaust butterfly for those running in competition due to superior exhaust flow off the back of the turbo! I really like the warm-up feature, where if you’re running an aftermarket valve body (BD in this case), you simply disconnect one wire on the control unit. I was leery about not having any adjustments in the control unit. It’s hard to dial-in such a device to a particular truck with a one-size-fits-all approach. Not in this case! There was a perfect match not only with our truck’s characteristics, but also with the BD transmission upgrade. You really have to learn to drive the sucker all over again. There’s so much braking power that you have to drive at freeway speeds right up to the off-ramp exit before you let off the throttle, otherwise you’ll have somebody in your trunk! Get all of the details on www.pacbrake.com/tdr or 877-377-0717.
RANCH DRESSING . . . . Continued I’m still trying to establish fuel mileage figures with the TST kit set at stock, about midway and then set at “hold on to your shorts.” I’ll report on that installation in the next issue. I’ve had some interesting conversations with Mark at TST about throttle position feedback, rpm and boost and how that plays with the ECM programming on the Second Generation 24-valves versus the common rail engines in the Third Generation trucks. Southwest Airlines is noted for the humor dispensed by their flight attendants on occasion. One such, “There may be 50 ways to leave your lover, but there are only four ways out of this airplane…” How appropriate, given February’s successful ditching in the Hudson River. John Holmes TDR Writer
RACOR DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVE P/N ADT1116 TREATS 320 GALS. $12.03 EA. RACOR DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVE P/N ADT1116 TREATS 30 GALS. $8.88 EA. or 3 or more for $7.84
DODGE CUMMINS 24V FUEL PUMP 19981/2-2003 $1049.95
RACOR PERFORMANCE FORMULA P/N ADT3116 TREATS 80 GALS. $12.67EA. or 3 or more for $11.18
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RACOR DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVE P/N ADT1201 TREATS 2560 GALS. $68.21 EA. or 2 or more for $60.19
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1050 S.E. LOOP 410 SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS 78220
1-800-289-1050
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A Feminine Perspective by Polly Holmes The Good News The price of diesel has gone down! I hope it will stay down. When fuel was so high, I noticed that folks dropped their speed down. Now that fuel has come down, up goes the speed again. Interesting! It sort-a goes along with the recent increase in the sales of pickups and SUVs.
There were also lots of fine Mopars to be seen. Muscle can be spelled Mopar! 426 Hemis, Cudas, Challengers. There also was an absolutely gorgeous, fully restored, 1953 Dodge pickup. We saw, for the first time, a 1960 Dodge Town Wagon. It was Dodge’s answer to the Chevy Suburban. Could it be the only one left on the planet? That one was really interesting.
Barrett-Jackson Auction This year the Barrett-Jackson Auction reflected the economy. The crowds in general were down and looking at the bidding arena, so was the number of bidders. Ditto the number of vendors. Selling prices were definitely down and B-J had removed their “no reserve” on some cars. Last year they all went through with “no reserve” provisions. This year you could actually walk around and take pictures. It was a good year to buy. A lot of really nice cars sold for very reasonable prices. The only thing that had not changed was the number of lovely classic cars. We saw two restored 1969 Hurst SC/Ramblers. (Only 1502 were built.) I learned to drive a stick-shift in the SC/Rambler that we had. That thing came from the factory with a 390 c.i. AMX engine, Sun tachometer, functional hood scoop, disc brakes, overhead traction bars and power steering ratio without the power steering… oh yes, there was a “radio delete” option. Does this tell you what the vehicle was made for? It didn’t matter what gear you were in, as it had a close ratio T-10 transmission with a Hurst shifter—give it enough gas, and it went no matter what…like something was after it! We campaigned that car in NHRA drag racing for several years. Ah, the good old days.
Strobe Stripes on a Cuda
A nice ‘53 Dodge
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POLLY’S PICKUP . . . . Continued Hurray!!! After Barrett-Jackson, we got the motorhome its annual service at Desert West Coach, checked up on our rental in Buckeye and then headed out to Quartzsite. On our annual trek to the world’s largest flea market, we visited with Bob and Nancy Simerly to do some advance planning for the 15th annual TDR May Madness. There, in the BIG tent, I found another great travel book, EXIT NOW. This publication is the official exit directory of the Good Sam Club, printed by Trailer Life books. It follows each Interstate so there is no need to flip from one state to another state to track your progress. It has rest stops, travel centers, with large vehicle access, food, lodging and medical services. Plus it has a ring binder so it lies flat, right next to my seat. So, when Hubby says, “Give me a truck stop about one hour out,” I just grab it and look it up. It also has little maps that show the Interstate exits with symbols on them for quick reference. That makes my life, as an “interactive GPS,” so much easier. To order, call 800-766-1674 or view it at www. trailerlifedirectory.com. 1960 Dodge Town Wagon
Hubby has a thing for Hudsons and there was a really nice 1951 Commodore 8 ragtop there. And finally, another vehicle that caught our eye was the 1954 Kaiser Darrin sports car. I just love the way the door slides forward into the front fender. It’s amazing how some of these very low production vehicles have survived this long. Thankfully so, now young people can see what we drove before they were born.
Economic Stimulus I want you to know we’ve done our part to bring prosperity back to the nation. The stock market has risen and the gross national product has jumped. That’s because we bought a new stock trailer. This 6’ X 16’ “S & H” heavy duty unit fits in nicely with our needs here in Texas. Fire engine red wasn’t exactly the color we wanted (rather have white), but it was a left-over ’08 and the dealer wanted to MOVE it! Hubby spent two days giving it a coat of wax, checking tire pressure and wheel bearings (just to be sure everything was okay), and then sealing the floors so it will hopefully last as long as some of our other trailers we have in our “fleet”. We stuffed 60 bales of hay in it with no problem. It pulls like it isn’t even back there. Thoughts These are tough times, folks are losing jobs, and financial security is shaky, even when you thought you were prepared. So here are some thoughts I try to use to stay on a steady course. Yes, Robert, I know these aren’t truck things, but they’re important anyway. Live for today, but plan for tomorrow. Your plans may have to change as situations come up, but try to have a direction in which you’re heading.
1951 Hudson Commodore 8
One last thing…We discovered a publication we weren’t familiar with before. It’s called Mopar Collector’s Guide. It has all sorts of interesting stories about hot Mopars, parts and racing. We hope to have a copy for you in the next TDR May Madness goody bag.
Reach out and try something new. We all get set in our same old rut and it takes effort to try something new. Having not done well in keeping up my web site, I have been working on a blog. This format seems to be doing a little better for me. I have been able to keep postings up to date and even add pictures. If you want to check it out, go to http://2jpranch.blogspot.com. My other new project is weaving on a triangle loom. This is part of a “challenge project” from my spinning guild. It is going to be a real challenge. Go with your feelings. My critters don’t care what the price of diesel does, they’re happy to see me and really happy if I have a bag of feed or a peanut treat.
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POLLY’S PICKUP . . . . Continued Listen, listen, listen. That was my New Year’s resolution…to listen more and talk less. We all like to hear ourselves talk, but you can learn more if you listen. So I’m trying. Forget about the past. Try to go forward to resolve conflicts before they become a major crises. Don’t hold on to negative feelings. Ask what you can do. Have a problem, offer a positive solution. Whining and moaning don’t solve the problem, they just make it worse. Offer a positive solution and you may become a lightning bolt for positive change. Be thankful for the day. Every day the sun comes up and the world turns. Yesterday, it was blowing and miserable. Today it is sunny and the birds are singing, enjoy!
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Revel in small miracles. Soon the baby sheep and goats will start to arrive. Each one is a little miracle. A seed grows, the leaves go up and the roots go down…a small miracle. These special moments warm your soul. Hope to see you in Pahrump, Nevada, for the next TDR May Madness, May 4-9, 2009. Until then… Polly Holmes TDR Writer
Joe Donnelly’s Truck and Travel Stories There will be two major topics for discussion this time. First, TST Products has some very interesting and worthwhile upgrades to their PowerMax-CR for the 2003-up Turbo Diesels. Second, there are now a lot of New Venture NV5600 six-speed transmissions in service, what with their being used from 1999 through 2005, and the need for rebuilders of these has grown accordingly. This transmission is far more complex and heavy than the older NV4500 five-speed. So we will go through the steps a rebuilder takes with the NV5600. Rebuilding a NV4500 at home is possible, and sometimes practical for talented owners, but as you will see, the NV5600 is a different story. TST POWERMAX-CR-PDA FOR ‘03-’07 ENGINES I have used several versions of the TST PowerMax-CR on my 2004 Turbo Diesel. Since I have regular analog gauges, I started with their R37 remote control that did not have gauges. After a while, I decided that their R49 remote with gauges was very worthwhile for the control of the cool-down timer, rail pressure gauge, and access to multiple power programs (such as early and late twin turbo programs). I found that the TST rail pressure gauge gives reproducible and very credible readings, and no other gauge I have tried is anywhere near as reliable, even expensive ones. Roughly half the price of the PowerMax can be justified by the cooldown timer and the rail pressure gauge alone! For a small price increase (which is offset by their current sale on their website, www. tstproducts.com) you can now get a Palm computer instead of the R49 remote control. You can also call TST at 812-342-6741. You can upgrade any existing PowerMax-CR for the Palm computer output/remote control. Some early versions may require a re-flash by TST to accept the Palm.
I found that the TST rail pressure gauge gives reproducible and very credible readings, and no other gauge I have tried is anywhere near as reliable, even expensive ones.
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Many new features are available with the Palm. You can watch all the gauges simultaneously, including the rail pressure. Formerly, you had to go to a special “upper level” screen to see the rail pressure, and it was displayed by itself. You can display curves for the last twelve minutes, and you can archive data on a 1 gigabyte SanDisk. If your sled puller or race engine “blew up,” you can later see what the critical parameters looked like while it happened! Most of us are familiar with the TST PowerMax-CR, so we will discuss the basic system only briefly. This external box is fully adjustable for added injection event duration, rail pressure curve, and timing advance. Low rpm (torque management) and high rpm (power) fueling can be adjusted separately. Various power and economy programs are loaded into memory and can be selected with the remote control that is attached to the instrument panel or dash. A wiring harness connects to the cam and crank sensors, allowing substantial timing changes from stock. Connectors to the rail pressure sensor and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor allow you to control rail pressure curves and allow more boost than stock without defueling by the Cummins engine control module, respectively.
Tst1. The main wiring harness is at left. This harness connects the PowerMax-CR box to the injectors, MAP sensor, and ground. The harness in the middle is the cam and crank sensor harness. It connects these sensors and the rail pressure sensor to the box. It also connects to power for the box and for cool down functions. At top right is a harness for the pyrometer probe, and underneath it is the box. Bottom right is the Palm computer which serves as the remote controller and readout for the PowerMax box.
HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued The Palm computer scope can record up to 12 minutes of data like a recorder that can be stopped and played back, or saved to an SD memory card. One gigabyte memory cards can be used to store data, music, or photos. The Palm data can be exported to an Excel spreadsheet for review or data manipulation. On its fastest setting, the Palm can gather 56 records per second. The scope screen photo shows an acceleration run where the rail pressure suddenly drops, causing a drop in power, boost and EGT.
Tst3. An example screen and settings.
Tst2. An acceleration run where the rail pressure suddenly drops causing a drop in power, boost and EGT.
The Palm computer/remote control comes up to the screen that was being used at the last engine shutdown, in this example, the economy default program. The top buttons (settings, monitor, cooldown, and scope) enable you to switch screens. Arrows within a screen let you change setting numbers; just touch the screen with a finger. If you are in an economy program, the “Econ” button on the left un-highlights when you move the power setting to 4. Touching the “Econ” button brings you back to the default settings 3,2,0,15. If you touch “Perf,” the screen goes to last Performance program you picked, and will remember your program as the default if you hold the correct (“Perf” or “Econ”) button for three seconds. When you go to other screens, the “Econ” at the bottom right of the screen remains on other screens to show what program you are using. Touching “USA” toggles to the metric measurement system, and says “SI” for readings in Celsius, bar, kPascals. The electrical plug picture to the left of USA means that the palm battery is being charged; a slash bar through the picture means it is not charging. The cool-down feature appears at the bottom left, and a bar through it means it is not on.
The “Settings” screen shows the times when the Palm readout goes to daylight viewing, with a brighter screen, white background like the Dodge instrument panel. The “Monitor” screen with white background shows the white background for daytime use This dark background “Settings” screen also shows when (19 hours in this example) it goes to the dim, nighttime screen with dark background and light blue numbers. The number “1” is how long the Palm stays on after you shut the key off, in this example, 1 minute. On 0, it never shuts off. Again, touch an arrow to change a setting. “Restore Factory Presets” presents on that screen, and allows you to go back to factory defaults for Econ and other programs. The default programs are common starting points. If you hold the button for three seconds, the programming will forget custom programs you used previously.
Tst4. Settings screen showing times for night and daytime modes.
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HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued Another “Monitor” screen shows the default maximums. If you touch “Monitor” a second time, the read-out goes to analog gauges. Touch the one you want to be big, and to have a digital reading inside it. All of the gauges read correctly, the small ones and the selected “big” one. The next photo shows the read-out in red if you meet or exceed the pre-set maximum. It still reads correctly, although the PowerMax box will be defueling in an attempt to bring the parameter back into the allowable range that you pre-set. Touching the big gauge sends you to the setup screen, and can turn the limit on or off, and change the limit.
The “Scope” screen with curves on it (see photograph TST2) will be constantly updating, in default mode, while the engine is running. You can control the screen you see with the buttons below it. You can stop and can look at the last 12 minutes. The SD card that you install into the port on the top edge of the Palm allows you to hold more than 12 minutes, with earlier data going onto the SD card, in Microsoft Excel format. On the “Cooldown” screen, you can change the temperature where the engine is allowed to shut down by touching the temperature, and then adjusting up or down. Similarly, you can set the timer in minutes. The big readout is the countdown (time left before shutdown occurs even if the specified temperature is not reached before then). “A” is the automatic cool-down button. Touch it and the setting changes to manual, indicated by a diagonal slash through the fan at the bottom left of the screen. You can activate or deactivate cool-down from any screen that has the fan at the bottom left. Doing so will enable you to get cool-down protection just for that shutdown. If you have automatic cool-down and touch the fan, the engine shuts off immediately if the key is off. So, if you lose a coolant hose or have some other emergency, you can shut off the engine immediately, even if it is still hot.
Tst6. Default maximum settings.
Tst9. Cool-down timer settings.
Tst7. Analog gauges.
Conclusion
Tst8. Analog gauges with selected gauge showing maximum allowed is being reached by the engine.
In summary, I find the PDA option for the TST PowerMax-CR to be an excellent upgrade, one that everyone should have. It allows you to monitor everything in real time simultaneously. For example, during a dyno run, I like to monitor rail pressure to see that the CP3 pump has “kept up” with the fuel demand of the engine. I also like to monitor boost, because I am running the stock head gasket and bolts with the excellent, high boost producing BD compound turbochargers. Exhaust gas temperature is always important to watch, especially during a full power run. Prior to the PDA (Palm computer monitor), I had to lock the TST remote on the rail pressure and try to watch it while looking at the analog gauges on the A pillar of the truck. If I hadn’t had those analog gauges, it would have been impossible to watch everything in real time, and know if I should abort the run if some parameter went out of control. It is also very worthwhile that the TST PDA stores twelve minutes of data so I can review all the measurements after the run, and can store the data in an Excel spreadsheet.
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HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued REBUILDING THE NV5600 SIX-SPEED TRANSMISSION Back in 2001, most of our Turbo Diesels with manual transmissions had five-speeds, either the Getrag used on First Generation trucks, or the New Venture NV4500 that was used on Second Generation trucks (1994-up). Only a few (24-valve High Output) Turbo Diesels had the six-speed New Venture NV5600. In Issue 30, pages 3637, we discussed lubricants, wear issues, and the fully splined mainshaft upgrade to prevent 5th gear from sliding out of position on the NV4500 five-speed. In Issue 31, pages 23-27, we discussed a complete rebuild of the NV4500 at Standard Transmission and Gear Co. of Fort Worth, Texas. Things have changed. Now there are a lot of NV5600s out there, having been used from 2000 up through the 2005 model year. This transmission has excellent ratios for our Turbo Diesels (5.63, 3.38, 2.04, 1.39, 1.00, and 0.73 forward gears, and 5.63 reverse ratio). Some owners are reporting problems with them, and the need for remanufactured or rebuilt transmissions has become steady, if not as large as the need for the upgrades to the NV4500. Some owners feel that overfilling with one to three quarts of lubricant in addition to the factory specification of about 4.2 quarts helps longevity, due to better oiling of the rear bearing. Various failures have been reported, and if the rear bearing seizes, the gear case can be cracked, making the “core” transmission of little value to a rebuilder. Many of the ’94-2001 NV4500s have been rebuilt successfully by small shops, general transmission shops, and owners. In this article, we will see that the NV5600 is a very different situation, requiring special knowledge, equipment, and procedures. The transmission weighs almost double the 200 pounds of the NV4500, so handling the parts alone is more than most people should consider. NV5600 Lubricants It is worthwhile to provide a brief review of lubricants, based on my experience and on a discussion with a knowledgeable oil engineer who is very familiar with our Turbo Diesels and who has always given me good advice, whether or not his company makes a product that he would recommend for my application. It is refreshing to get advice to use a competitor’s product if that is what is best! He told me that the factory recommended lube, commonly marketed by Pennzoil, is good, but as with other non-synthethic products, will tend to wax at low temperatures and oxidize at high operating temperatures, compared to a good synthetic lube. He likes the Amsoil product for near-stock applications. The additive package is very good and the synthetic base stock behaves well. It is about like a 5-30 weight range using the engine oil scale. If your usage is much more severe, due to heavy towing beyond Dodge’s recommendations, high operating lube temperatures, and/or high horsepower usage, he prefers Torco Racing Transmission fluid (RTF), which is about like 10-40 weight on the engine oil scale. The additives in RTF might tend to attack brass synchronizers because of its GL-6 additives, but it will protect the gears better under heavy loads. Current equipment is not set up to test beyond GL-5, but Torco continues to treat their lubricants at the levels they used in the past to meet GL-6 requirements. The tradeoff could be that the synchronizers won’t work as well after reaching high mileage, but that is better for a transmission that will be rebuilt periodically anyway, compared to gear breakage from high horsepower and heavy towing. As he mentioned, if you have significantly exceeded factory usage, you have to make compromises. He also pointed out that the higher cost of the Torco RTF might
discourage changing lube as often, and it is always better to change lube regularly, since wear metals and particulates end up in the oil with no filtration to remove them. If you are towing heavy trailers, carry heavy loads, or have added horsepower, consider the Trans-Cool coolers (see TDR Issue 61, page 99) offered by Geno’s Garage. Testing while towing has shown a reduction in lubricant operating temperature, and they add about a quart of capacity. They have an extensive fin system to help dissipate heat, and are thick walled aluminum castings. The package containing two coolers and a set of mounting bolts weighs about 12 pounds. The Process Begins Charlie Jetton and Richard Poels of Standard Transmission and Gear, Fort Worth, Texas, discussed the procedures with me for rebuilding a New Venture 5600 transmission correctly. If anyone really wants to try rebuilding this model transmission under the shadetree, there are 41 pages on rebuilding this transmission in the factory Service Manual. However, the complexity shown in the accompanying photographs and captions will probably convince you to let a professional transmission shop with lots of experience with NV5600s do the work. The way the NV5600 comes apart, and correspondingly, the way it comes together, is complicated. The bellhousing seems logical to remove and get out of the way, but it is almost last in the process of disassembly. Actually, it is far more than just a bellhousing. It is the transmission front plate and the mounting plate for many components. It reminds one of the midplate of a Muncie or Super T10 automotive four-speed transmission, where the midplate serves as the mounting point for the main and cluster shafts. Standard Transmission stresses cleanliness and goes to extremes to ensure the parts and housing are clean. The NV5600 gearbox does not have a filter, so any grit, metallic dust, or particles will circulate and cause more damage. They use both solvent washers and a hot tank. They use a special assembly lube, with high pressure additives. This lube “sticks” better than oil if the transmission is stored a while after rebuilding. Synchronizer rings are very susceptible to damage if they don’t get lubrication right away, so the assembly lube is important protection for them. Disassembly and reassembly are far more complicated than a NV4500 five-speed. The rebuilder needs special knowledge to disassemble or reassemble the transmission without damaging components. The NV5600 is very heavy, almost 400 pounds, which is about double the weight of the NV4500 five-speed. Individual components and subassemblies are correspondingly heavier than the 4500. Reassembly is complex and must be performed in a specific order. Certain parts like the synchronizer assemblies need careful inspection and are hard to assemble with the springs and balls inside them. Just a little movement of the slider will cause the balls to fly everywhere. The parts need to be assembled in a very specific orientation or the gears will lock up. In addition to specialized knowledge, what takes rebuilding a 5600 away from the “generic, any rebuilt unit is the same” concept is the extreme need for cleanliness and pride in the work. Another important consideration is that as the transmission gets hot during use, it grows; so correct, precise shimming the end play of the shafts will be critical for longevity. Precise shimming takes time and TDR 64
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HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued commitment. The factory allows a range of clearance, but Standard Transmission has found that the tolerances need to be much more carefully set if the transmission is to live. They use dial indicators and presses, and they check to be sure there is no gap between a race and gear shoulder. When Standard gets transmissions that others have rebuilt previously, often the oil diverters (cluster oil diverter and input shaft oil diverter) are omitted and then the parts fail quickly. A diagram of the transmission and specific rebuilding procedures are covered with photos and captions.
Diagram of the NV5600 transmission and internal components.
This photo shows the mainshaft turned over, starting to build the back side with first and second gear. Second gear is on, inner and outer synchronizer parts, and the friction ring are installed. The punch indicates the tab on the inner ring that has to go inside a slot in the 1,2 hub, shown in the next photo.
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The punch indicates the notch in the hub where the tab of the inner synchronizer must go. Misalignment will result in broken tabs when the parts are pressed together.
HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued
Cluster gears are pre-assembled with the big press. It takes a lot of tonnage to press 6th gear onto the cluster shaft. This photo shows the disassembled cluster.
The u-shaped clamp is a trick to help put the synchronizer assembly together and keep the parts together so the balls donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t spring out. The clamp shown here is being used for assembly of 5th and 6th gear, by holding the 5-6 synchronizer assembly together for installation.
Pressing the 5-6 synchronizer hub onto the main shaft with a 50 ton press. This hub is not a light press fit. Assembly of many components requires this heavy duty press. A 20 ton press is not enough.
This lifting tool facilitates picking up the assembly without the components spreading apart, in order to put it into the front end of the transmission case (the bellhousing). This assembly is heavy enough that the rebuilder uses a hoist to pick it up (190 pounds). TDR 64
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HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued
The front end of the main case. It is just an empty hole; the bellhousing/front plate is the part that retains the components.
The assembly is placed into the bellhousing before the main case is installed. The main case weighs 88 pounds and the tailhousing weighs 54 pounds.
Installing the input and main gear trains, the cluster gear assembly, and the shift forks and rails. These components must all be installed simultaneously into the bellhousing/front case. This photo makes it clear that the bellhousing is far more than a simple bellhousing like the NV4500 uses. The photo shows that it is also the front plate and assembly alignment fixture for the NV5600 transmission.
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The main case is being dropped onto the bellhousing/front plate and gear train assemblies.
HAVE RAM, WILL TRAVEL . . . . Continued
Tightening the big nut on the mainshaft with a special deep socket, to 250 ft-lb.
The rear of the cast iron main case, shimming the main shaft. Clearance must be checked from the rear end as shown. Shims go on the front end, under the front bearing retainer. You must turn over the partially assembled transmission to change shims each time you change them. By this point in the assembly process, the transmission weighs more than three hundred pounds.
Input oil diverter in the front bearing retainer. Conclusion for the NV5600 Discussion In summary, the NV5600 is best maintained with the proper lubricant, regular changing of the lube, and keeping your load or trailer within factory recommended weight limits. When the transmission needs to be rebuilt, send it to a shop you trust because of their knowledge and the care they take with it. Joe Donnelly TDR Writer
Mainshaft shim going into the front bearing retainer at the input shaft. Cluster shims are installed by an analogous procedure in the front, and checked from the rear. After shimming, put on reverse gear and install the big nut with Loctite.
TST Products 7440 S International Drive Columbus, IN 47201 812-342-6741 www.tstproducts.com Standard Transmission and Gear 1000 NE 29th Street Fort Worth, TX 76106 1-800-std-tran TDR 64
Torco Racing Oils Torco International Corporation 10652 Bloomfield Avenue Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 Phone: (562) 906-2120 www.torcoracingoils.com Amsoil See advertisement in this magazine for a dealer near you!
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Reflections on the human side of the man/machine relationship by clinical psychologist and motojournalist, Mark Barnes, Ph.D. THE PROVERBIAL GLASS Is the glass half full or half empty? Since life rarely, if ever, provides us with completely good or completely bad circumstances, we must constantly assess the relative pros and cons of the situation before us, along with the available options. I emphasize available here because it is all too easy to get caught up in comparisons with ideals that are not actually on the menu, and are therefore purely academic. Moot. Irrelevant. And, most importantly, counterproductive. If I had only known… Right. If I had only been clairvoyant, prescient, omniscient. If I had just gone ahead and traded right before that transmission suddenly ground itself to pieces without warning, I could have avoided that whopping repair bill. If I had only moved those retirement funds out of the stock market and into long treasury bonds back in the fall of 2007, I’d be showing big gains right now instead of huge losses. We don’t get the benefit of hindsight until after it’s too late, but that doesn’t stop us from holding ourselves responsible for bad decisions. Based on the information available at the time, it made more sense to hold onto that vehicle with the secret transmission problem. The trade offer wasn’t very compelling, and there was every reason to think that waiting for a better deal was the prudent, economical thing to do. And, as for the retirement funds: expert advice—normally reliable and safe—was pointed in a bullish direction. Defying it would have been the statistically reckless choice at the time. Letting go of hindsight-based self-reproach is so difficult because it involves letting go of an underlying illusion we hold dear: that we can avoid losses and frustrations if we just think clearly enough to make the right decisions. It’s easier to live with a contrived sense of failure than the realization that we are truly unable to know what’s waiting for us down the road. If we failed to make the correct choice, we want to believe we can just work harder and get it right next time—and every time thereafter. But, if we’re genuinely incapable of predicting the future, then no amount of effort will guarantee security—anything could happen to us. That kind of uncertainty is very hard to live with. So we usually don’t. Rather than maintain an awareness of this, we make plans the best we can and reassure ourselves that our research and reasoning will carry the day. And it probably will, most of the time, so the illusion holds. When we become anxious because of some obvious deficit in the information available, or situational variables shift in unanticipated ways over which we have no control, we can become driven by the need to reestablish the illusion of certainty. We busy
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ourselves with compulsive efforts to know the unknowable or do the undoable. The energy discharged in such efforts may burn off some anxiety, but it’s usually not very effective at really improving our situation. What’s called for is a shift in perspective. Although I have no way of confirming this, I’ve read that in at least one Chinese dialect the words for “crisis” and “opportunity” are the same. This gets us back to the proverbial glass. Let’s take the current economic mess as an example. What is bad for sellers is good for buyers. Although I’m terribly dismayed at the plunging resale value of my truck, I’ve been delighted to find gigantic discounts on parts and accessories. Without going nuts and shredding my financial cushion, I’ve gobbled up some outrageous deals lately. Likewise in the investment world. Low stock prices are just as wonderful for buyers as they are terrible for sellers. One reason many individual investors lose money in the market is because they make decisions based on short-sighted reasoning driven by the emotion of the moment. So they buy stocks at their peaks (when enthusiasm is highest) and then dump them at their lows (when fear and despair are maxed-out). This is the exact opposite of “buy low, sell high,” and it’s why some investors earn fantastic returns by watching sentiment indicators very closely; they understand that the best time to buy is when everyone else has decided buying/holding is too dangerous. This morning on the radio I heard a story about Londoners dealing with an extraordinarily heavy snowfall. The city apparently has minimal equipment for clearing roads, since the rarity of serious snow accumulation makes such infrastructure not worthwhile. The reporter contrasted the gigantic economic blow of having most of the local businesses shut down with the obvious joy of people out in the streets throwing snowballs and frolicking in a festive, holiday atmosphere. Those interviewed talked about the gleeful surprise of an unexpected break in the humdrum routines of work and other obligations. Neighbors and strangers were meeting and chatting on corners and in pubs instead of rushing hurriedly by each other on their respective missions. They’d decided their (pint) glass was half-full. As an avid motorcyclist, I can get very perturbed at bad weather— until I remember that I have a few interesting mechanical projects waiting for me in the garage. Or, I realize it’s time to make my rounds at the local shops in search of one! I cannot control the weather any more than I can predict the future. I can only choose my response to the latest developments. Each day I get dealt a new hand, and I have to play the cards I’ve got. Sometimes that means folding and finding something else to do. I’ll cut my losses early instead of fighting the odds. If you watch
MOTOR MINDED . . . . Continued professional gamblers in real time, the process looks very different than the extensively edited television coverage. It’s not very exciting most of the time. They know that only a small minority of hands are actually worth betting on, and they opt out of the majority. They don’t employ their highly developed skills in efforts to turn a bad hand into a good one. That isn’t really an option, just a grandiose fantasy of omnipotence. Instead, their skills include the self-discipline to relinquish the illusion of control, and to relax as an uninvolved observer until conditions are more favorable. In many ways, these are hard times. There are a multitude of challenges facing us as individuals, as a nation and as a species. Clearly, there is much hard work to be done, and legitimate urgency to get going. But at the same time, it’s of vital importance to maintain balance. We cannot be efficiently productive without rest and recreation. We cannot do a truly good job in a rush. And we cannot make progress by expending our energy on unrealistic ideals. So, while we may not be able to afford a new truck right now, we might be able to spiff up the old one at a tiny fraction of the usual
cost. But it also might be worth investigating the bigger picture. If my old truck has lost 30% of its value, and a new rig is selling for 40% off its (much higher) normal price, the deal could mean a substantial net gain. The most economical choice might be to make the trade, if it doesn’t wipe out our emergency funds. Or, maybe we’ll spend more time with family and friends, commiserating about the tightening of budgets, pooling resources, learning to do more of our own maintenance and repairs, and sharing the tricks we’ve learned in our efforts to make do with less. The bottom line is there’s more to life than the bottom line. If we spend our time beating ourselves up for not knowing the economy was going to tank, or we manage our anxiety with lots of panic-driven wheel-spinning, we’ll miss the opportunities to respond creatively and cultivate the resources that are actually available. There’s another old maxim we might employ now, “When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.” Mark Barnes, Ph.D. TDR Writer
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A forum for posting TDR Chapter activities. TDR LOCAL CHAPTERS—WHAT AND WHO ARE THEY? The following members have expressed an interest in kicking off a local chapter, meeting at a local pizza or steak house on a regular basis, discussing or cussing experiences, organizing local events, and/or telling lies to one another. These members have volunteered to be contact persons in their respective geographic regions. If you have a question about your Turbo Diesel, you now have a local point of contact. Please note that I underscored “volunteered.” These are very good people who are offering to be friendly. Respect their sanity and their evening hours with family. Work with them to get your local chapter up and operational. San Jose, California Area TDR Ramrunners Blair Pine 4465 Lonardo Avenue San Jose, CA 95118 (408/266-1333) Colorado Area Rocky Mtn TDR Sam Ayers madmax@ASAModifieds.com www.RMTDR.com Connecticut (New England) Area New England Turbo Diesel Power Tim Taylor 120 Fairfax Drive Stratford, CT 06614 (203/375-1453) ToolManTimTaylor@aol.com www.newenglandturbodieselpower.com Idaho/ Eastern Oregon Area Idaho Bombers L Muddy Thompson PO Box 652 Parma, ID 83660 (208/739-2520) idahobombers@yahoo.com www.idahobombersforum.com
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MD, PA, WV Area Mason Dixon TDR Jim Peter 785 Zarger Road Greencastle, PA 17225 (717/816-3224) Rams-n-Hogs@comcast.net New Jersey Area South Jersey Pinelands Chapter Bill Mancinelli 19 Millstone Drive Shamong, NJ 08088 (609/367-4725) billm03@comcast.net Upper New York State Area Upstate Bombers Chad Taylor (607/863-4812) cmtproduce@hotmail.com Pete Toombs (315/656-8123) ptoombs@earthlink.net 6009 Webb Rd. Willet, NY 13863
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Metro New York/Long Island Area Long Island Cummins Ram Owners Club Artie Johnsen PO Box 324 Remsenburg, NY 11960 (631/325-3516) artie@copper.net www.licroc.org Cincinnati, OH Area Cincinnati Area TDR Paul Odegard 150 Farragut Road Cincinnati, OH 45218 (513/825-8338) odegardpma@fuse.net South Carolina Area South Carolina TDR Gary Croyle, c/o Perfection Clutch 100 Perfection Way Timmonsville, SC 29161 E-mail: gcroyle@perfht.com East TN/South KY Area TDR “Dodgers” David Wheeler 170 East Port Drive Lenoir City, TN 37772 sendit2david@charter.net Houston, TX Area Lone Star TDR Curtis Harris 2404 Colleen Pearland, TX 77581 832/256-8730) curtis@hotroddiesels.com www.lstdr.org
Ontario, Canada Area Ontario Dodge Diesel Owners Robert Schwarzli RR #3 Mount Albert, ONT, Canada (416) 605-4154 tdrontario@gmail.com Sweden TDR Sweden Dick Tilander Finspangsgatan 43 163 53 Spanga, Sweden (+46 8 6470560) dixdodge@swipnet.se www.tdr.se Roanoke, VA Area Blue Ridge TDR Chapter Gerald W. Tobey 275 Autumnwood Lane Troutville, VA 24175 (540) 992-5840 info@blueridgediesel.com
CHAPTER NEWS . . . . Continued TDR Ontario Meeting Well, for TDR Ontarioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first meet, we were graced with frigid -17 C temperatures (before wind chill) and blizzard-like conditions! In all, 18 people and 10 trucks showed to shake the pavement outside of the Chinese Food Buffet. Ranging from First Generation to Third Generation, the trucks were both stock and modified. We even had two very enthusiastic members Dan and Deb from Ottawa make the five hour trip to Newmarket just for the meet.
After initial introduction out in the cold, the group converged on our own room inside of the restaurant. After a brief hello, the group went off to the buffet.
After everyone ate their fill, the room filled with conversations regarding Cummins Turbo Diesel trucks. Who has what parts and accessories? Who has had problems and what can be done to remedy them? What is everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall experience? Ontario chapter president Robert Schwarzli then conducted a quick introduction regarding his past automotive interests and his initiation to the Dodge/Cummins and the TDR world. Robert also covered some of the new benefits to being a member of the TDR in the way of discounts to both Kawartha Chrysler Dodge Jeep and Hot Rod Diesel. Both of these companies will be offering Ontario TDR members a discount on parts and labor to help the club members. It was decided that the Ontario TDR would hold quarterly events ranging from some regional shows to potentially even a National event.
After a brief question and answer session, the group dressed up and prepared to battle the cold. We went out to the trucks for the pre-drive motor warm ups and for pictures. After the pictures, goodbyes were said and we all climbed into our semi warm trucks to start the journey home in the developing snow storm. Before leaving the big open parking lot, it is said that there were a few folks who were having traction issues. It was determined that the issue, were several trucks reportedly doing donuts in the parking lot on the fresh snow. There was even a point when there were two donuts happening at once!
In all, it was a great turnout for the newly formed chapter. We did have many people who were not able to make it due to the weather or due to being in the Southern States for the winter, but we are looking forward to seeing them this summer. Thanks you again to all that braved the weather and came out to support the event. It was great meeting you and I look forward to seeing you all again soon! Robert Schwarzli Mount Albert, Ontario
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TDR/REFERRAL/RECOGNITION/REWARD
Recognition
Thank you for your help in increasing the TDR membership. Your efforts via discussions, copies, and brochures handed out to other Turbo Diesel owners are noted each time a new owner joins us.
How do you participate? It’s easy. On the TDR brochures that you pass out in a “grassroots photo-copy membership drive,” or on an original TDR brochure, be sure to include your name and subscription number. As new subscribers join us, we’ll check the application for a referral name/number. Then, we will recognize TDR members for their participation in the “TDReferral/Recognition/ Reward” column each quarter.
This referral program is ever more important. In the early years, the TDR has had support from Chrysler in the form of new truck owner information. With internal changes at Chrysler, this information is no longer available. Thus, the TDR membership has to be self-reliant in its marketing initiatives. Many members have asked for additional brochures and have commented about their work distributing the material. For the efforts put forth, you would expect a higher number of responses. Don’t be discouraged!! Your positive discussions may not immediately net a new TDR member. Many people have the intention, yet find it hard to part with dollars. Referral The subscription number listed on the top of your address label is a valuable tool that the TDR uses to keep track of subscriptions and to recognize/reward those TDR members who are active in new subscription referrals. HEATHER KNUTSON MAJOR ANDERSON CORY BECK RUSS BILYEU SASCHA BLOM DAVID BRADHAM C. E. BROWN KURT BRUDERLY ROBERT J. BURNS TONY BUSH HECTOR CANALES WILLIAM CARTER ERIC CHAVEZ DAVID L. CIAPPONI TRAVIS CLUFF DANIEL L COFFMAN CHRIS CONTRERAS BOB CURL WARREN DANIELS TED DE CASTRO MIKE DEGIROLAMO VICTOR DOBNEY BRYAN DOUGLAS TERRY DUNN CHRIS EBBERT AARON EDELHEIT MARVIN EDER STEPHEN ELLIS ROGER EPWORTH
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THOMAS ESS RONALD K. EVANS NIGEL J.P. FALLS-HAND TODD FARNHAM GUY FERGUSON CLARK FISH JEREMY FLICK TIM FORRY JOHN P. FOURNIER MICHAEL FOWLE ROY FOX JIM GINELLA JAMES GLEASON HORACE GODBOLD STEVEN GORGIAS THOM GOURLEY TRENTON GRANT ERIC GREENAWALT TERENCE HAGAN CARL HARDWICK CLYDE L HARGROVE MIKE HARTER DAVID HEADING NICK HERMAN RYAN HOLCOMB SCOTT HOOKER JAMIE HUDEC JASON HUELS ROBERT IOLI
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Reward Recognition is great, but how about a WIIFM (what’s in it for me)? How does this sound? For your help in expanding the membership of the TDR, we will send you a Cummins Diesel Power cab plate. I love incentives, don’t you? Let’s give away some money. It’s fun to get a surprise cab plate in the mail. But we would like to add a bit of excitement to the TDR/ R/R program. Here is the deal. For each referral, we will put your name into a hat for a quarterly prize of $100. Obviously, numerous referrals per quarter increase your chances of winning. Our winner this quarter is Thomas Ess.
GARY ISABELL DAVID JACOBSON CAL JONES DIXON KAPCSOS KARL KEISHOLD DAVID KLEIN JOHN LAPINSKI THOMAS LEE ROBERT LEMLEY BERNIE LEVY EDWARD LOONEY GREG LUGO ED MARKIELEWSKI H.C. “TONY” MARTIN LEE MAZARKY DAN MCKINNEY GEORGE MCNARY SAM MILLER DENNIS MILLIGAN SEAN MILLOY PETER MOALE TINA MOORE JOHN MOREWOOD JONATHAN NOMER KEVIN PAULINI TOM PAYTON DEREK PEARSON BILL PIGGINS
DARREL PLANK JAY PRICHARD BRIAN PULVER GLEN QUAST HAROLD RAPHAEL THOMAS REED DAVE RICHARDS LARRY RODGERS MIKE RUSHMEYER BRETT SHEFFER MATTHEW SHINE LANCE SMITH DAVID SMITH JAY SPENCER DAVID SPICKERMAN KURT A STEINER JERRY STEVENS JOSHUA TEAGER GLENN TIMME RICK TOALSON MIKE TRENT JOE UNDERWOOD JASON UNTERSEE BOB WAGNER DAVID WALDO JOSEPH WALKER BARRY WEIDLICH DAN ZINKIEVICH
TDR/R/R . . . . Continued TcDR
REWARD/HIGH MILEAGE
Recognition of those individuals who have gone out of their way to help a fellow TDR truck owner is important. Therefore, we have developed a grille badge that we will send to those in the Travel Companion book when we learn of their assistance to a machinedown traveler. The award is called the TcDR: Travel Companion Distinguised Recognition. The TcDR badge will look great on that big Dodge Ram grille.
In Issue 22 (Fall ’98) we started a program to recognize/reward high mileage Turbo Diesel trucks. We developed a TDR milestone tag to commemorate mileage achievements. The tags are sent at no charge to members. Proof of mileage by a photo of the outside of the truck and a picture of the odometer is appreciated. (If you can’t get a good focus on the odometer, we’ll trust you.)
The generally accepted rules for TcDR badge distribution simply require an e-mail or letter from the traveler who was offered and received asistance. Be sure to include your name, address and phone number and the phone number of the member who provided the assistance.
If you would like a high mileage tag, please send in your photos. Include $4.80 in postage or cash to cover shipment of your nocharge tag. Tags are given out at 100,000 mile increments, i.e., 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500K miles. Over 500K miles? Sorry, we’ve not yet developed a tag, but we’ll send additional 100K tags to collect and display. While we would like to use every owner’s picture sent to us, please realize that a photo of your truck may or may not be in the magazine because of page layout and spacing constraints.
The TcDR grille badge is available to those members that help out others in need. Please send your TcDR nominations to: TDR 1150 Samples Industrial Drive Cumming, GA 30041 TcDR Award – John Gamble I wanted to let you all know that I am nominating a member of your Register for the Travel Companion Distinguished Recognition award. I was traveling home from church, which is a fair distance from my house, when my car had a complete blowout of the front passenger tire. I didn’t have but the spare tire, as I have custom wheels and rims. I gave John Gamble a call, as he lived nearby, and asked him to come down and give me a hand. Without hesitation, John hopped in his Ram and met me. Well, 30 minutes later, we had the car jacked up and tires changed. He was even nice enough to follow me home to ensure I made it there. I couldn’t have called anybody else, as I didn’t know anybody else who could have helped.
Mike Bradway Salem, NJ
Ed Carney Pittsburgh, PA
Chris Ebbert Puyallup, WA
Donald Elbert Vacaville, CA
Chris Hobbs Suter Creek, CA
Warren Milne Eaton, CO
Rusty Neise East Bend, NC
Fredderick Richards Morris Plains, NJ
David Rosera Eagle, ID
Edwin Scheckel East Troy, WI
David Shuart Alameda, CA
Robert Young Flagler Beach, FL
Randy Shipman Rock Springs, WY
This quarter we sent 200K tags to: Nathaniel Epperly Smiths Creek, MI
Allen Hertzberg Paynesville, MN
Warren Milne Eaton, CO
Miller McCrabb Grandview, MO
This quarter we sent a 300K tag to: Frank Marquet Aubery, CA This quarter we sent 400K tags to: Jim Krier Granville, OH
James Shorter Hubert, NC TcDR Award – Bob Markey Bob was very helpful when I had transmission trouble in his area. Without his assistance it would have been an expensive truck repair. Bob, thank you for your helpfulness. Eric Clements Altaloma, CA
This quarter we sent 100K tags to: Donald Baie Marshalltown, IA
Steve Poulos Santa Barbara, CA
This quarter we sent a 500K tag to: Dale Hall Mount Washington, KY This quarter we sent a 900K tag to: Norman Holmes Gustine, CA
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TDR/R/R . . . . Continued
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Nathaniel Epperly 200K (‘03 2500)
Frank Marquet 300K
Warren Milne 100K (‘04) 238K (‘97)
Don Baie 100K
David Rosera 100K (‘00 2500)
David Shuart 100K (‘01 2500)
Bob Young 100K
Chris Hobbs 100K (‘99 2500)
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TDR/R/R . . . . Continued
Frederick Richards 100K
Ed Scheckel 100K
Chris Ebbert 100K (‘01)
Ed Carney 100K
Rusty Neise 100K
Allen Hertzberg 200K
Steve Poulos 400K (‘89)
Norman Holmes 900K
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EARN YOUR STRIPES Sparked by old 1960s vintage Dodge advertisements in the book Classic Muscle Car Advertising, the TDR staff created the Super B character in 1996. With the exception of a few hundred t-shirts that were sold to nostalgic Dodge fans, the Super B has not been too busy…until now. Like the Super B t-shirts, the Classic Muscle Car Advertising book collected dust. A bookshelf relocation was occasion for a quick glance at the book. The glance became a stare. The stare became an idea. Let’s take time to recognize those B-series engine builders that have achieved high-horsepower milestones! So, using the Super B character, we developed a TDR license tag to recognize the horsepower achievement attained by dedicated B-series engine builders and owners. Below is the result of our creative efforts.
If you would like a Super B/Earn Your Stripes license tag, please send in a copy of a dyno sheet from your dyno run. Please include $4.00 in postage or cash to cover shipment of your no-charge tag. If you send in a photo of your truck, we will try to include the photo in the magazine. Likewise, if you have a story to tell about the lessons you’ve learned, money you’ve spent, fuel you’ve used, vendors you would recommend, etc., please send the story with your other materials. The “Earn Your Stripes” tag is unique in that the tag has from four stripes up to eight to commemorate the horsepower achievement. For those who might not get the point, each stripe represents 100 horsepower, we’ve spelled it out for them in big numbers: 400 hp, 500 hp, 600 hp, 700 hp and 800 hp. Earn Your Stripes! Send us a dyno run and $4 in stamps or cash and we will gladly recognize the achievement in the magazine’s “Earn Your Stripes” column. This quarter we sent “Earn Your Stripes” license tags to the following TDR member: 600 HP Peter Gross, Scaly Mountain, NC Paul Porter, Pottstown, PA Dallas Sinclair, Duchess, AB, Canada 500 HP Peter Gross, Scaly Mountain, NC Warren Milne, Eaton, CO Paul Porter, Pottstown, PA 400HP Eric Karr, Long Lane, MO
A picture of our 500hp tag.
Mike Bradway 100K
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Randy Shipman 154K
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“Backfire” is a forum for corrections, clarifications, and further explanation. Yes, you’re reading between the lines correctly. “Backfire” is a column where the editor gets to eat crow. RAIL PRESSURE, FUEL MILEAGE AND THE TDR On page 82 of TDR Issue 63, we are told that added rail pressure does not result in mileage gains and is “problematic to injector and injection system durability.” Then on page 110 we are led to believe that increasing fuel pressure will increase mpg by 7%. What gives? Brods Brods, good work on the close reading. Further examination of Issue 63 reveals that the two statements are in quite different context: one written by Donnelly (page 82) is a technical article; the other (page 110) is a general interest story. To continue my investigation I went back to Doug Leno’s report on performance modules for the HPCR engine as the HPCR 5.9-liter was introduced in 2003. In an effort to be technically correct, Joe Donnelly was busy tinkering with his ’04 engine at the same time that Doug was testing products. These two writers collaborated on much of the text. Doug’s articles started in Issue 45, August of 2004, with an introduction to the topic. Doug continued with a comparative product matrix in TDR Issue 47. Thus far the discussion about the performance boxes was limited to their cause-and-effect on horsepower and the engine components (turbocharger, air intake and exhaust) to support the added power. Finally, in Doug’s final article in Issue 48, there was a discussion on fuel economy. Going back to Issue 48, Leno wrote, “The earlier fuel delivery (at a higher pressure and with a shorter duration) produces the same amount of power with less fuel. This explains why some have reported moderate fuel economy improvements with the use of such enhancements.
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We suspect such improvements are both small and difficult to establish.” In 2005 there were spikes in the price of diesel fuel to over $3. TDR writer Scott Dalgleish did a series of articles on modifications aimed at better fuel economy to his ’05 Turbo Diesel. Scott presented conclusive data that fuel injection timing (and those performance modules that allow you to change timing), not fuel pressure, was the key to better mileage. Our most recent look at performance modules and their use for fuel economy was in Issue 61, “It’s About the (fuel) Economy Stupid!” This is an excellent reread for 5.9-liter HPCR owners that are looking for fuel economy help. In an effort to address your question (and to save you the mad search for Issue 61’s articles), I asked Joe for his input which follows: In theory, it would seem that increasing rail pressure would help mileage, as noted on page 110. In practice, neither Marco Castano (owner, MADS electronics/developer of Smarty), Mark Chapple (owner of TST, Cummins engineer for 33 years, developer of Power Kit and PowerMax products), nor I have seen any clear, verifiable mileage increase from raising rail pressure above the stock Cummins curve. Power adders do “cheat” the truck’s overhead console report of fuel mileage, giving falsely high readings because fuel is being added that the computer doesn’t know about. Mark told me he did see a nice torque increase in the 900-1300 rpm range from added rail pressure that was not achievable to the same extent by adding injection duration. As with some other products and approaches to modifying turbo diesels, “YMMV” in internet slang, or “your mileage may vary.” Remember that the Turbo Diesels with the lowest injection pressures, the First Generation trucks, were renowned for giving good mileage. Joe Donnelly TDR Writer
Garmon ’s Diesel Performance (404) 557-4972
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Garmon’s Diesel Performance is now a Full-Service Diesel Transmission Shop. We provide transmission parts built by us, tested by us and used by us! See our Cummins-Powered Pro Street trucks at the drag strip and find out why all the top Dodge diesel trucks use Garmon’s Diesel Performance! ¥
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The TDRV column focuses on towing with your truck for work or play. It covers towing accessories and products, related technical discussion, and TDR member experiences. And, just as you’ll find in some other TDR columns, we’ve incorporated some of the Q&A from the website. TDRV is edited by Jim Anderson and Ken Freund. WAXING YOUR RV Perhaps one of the most onerous jobs in RV care is keeping your rig looking nice. It is a job that is necessary to help preserve the value as well as appearance of your pride and joy. Frequent washing helps maintain the shine, but there’s no substitute for a good coat of wax to fully protect the exterior surfaces from deterioration, especially the front end where most bugs and road debris tend to accumulate. Bugs are particularly bad, since the splats contain chemicals and acids that can discolor and deteriorate the surface. Besides, a coat of high quality wax can greatly aid your efforts in bug removal, causing them to turn loose and disappear with a light application of soap and water. Your scribe has had best results using a pure carnauba paste wax on all leading edges of an RV after first priming the surface with a good cleaner to remove all contaminants. If the front of your RV is made of fiberglass, I suggest a high carnauba content paste wax formulated for gel coated fiberglass boats. Most marinas and boat dealers carry such products. Surface preparation is the first “all important” step to ensure the following coat of wax adheres evenly and completely, so first wash the rig, then apply and remove the surface cleaner, then apply and buff the wax. This requires a lot of work with an applicator followed by buffing, but provides a finished surface that can be nearly impervious to road dirt and bugs, often lasting a year before a repeat job becomes necessary. Some owners simply use a wash/wax product on all other surfaces to provide the shine and finish protection with a lot less work. To maintain protection, the wash/wax products must be used often to avoid dirt and contaminant buildup. For a more permanent solution a cleaner/wax product must be applied by hand and buffed either by hand or with a buffing machine. If you apply and remove wax using a buffing machine, be very careful as the machine can quickly eat through the thin gloss coating on both metal and fiberglass finishes. Corrugated metal exteriors require extra work to apply and remove wax products from the many seams and ridges that are a part of this type of covering. For these surfaces, a thorough washing followed by automotive liquid wax is the fastest way to protect the finish. Smooth fiberglass end caps and sidings eliminate the nooks and crannies of corrugated metal siding and therefore make the job go faster with less effort. RVs built using fiberglass exteriors cost
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more, but you’ll pay that extra amount only one time, and you’ll get it back at resale time. Meanwhile, washing and waxing smooth expanses will be lots easier and faster, so you will be encouraged to do it more often. For heavy mud and dirt accumulations, such as those encountered on roads in the Yukon and certain areas of Alaska, use lots of water and light brush pressure to loosen layers of mud and float them off of your RV’s surfaces. You may have to go over each area of your RV several times to completely clean the surfaces without scratching the underlying covering. TAMPA RV SHOW In January, I took a long trip through the Tampa RV show, billed as the nation’s largest, displaying 1800+ units. It was a show of big contrasts, highlighting the absence of several manufacturers who have gone under, while others bravely soldier on in hard economic times. Crowds were down from previous years, but deals were being made anyway, often at better prices than would normally be the case. Lots of product on display in dealer areas was 2008 inventory, with some current 2009 units and a couple of prototype 2010 models. Most are simply variations of existing designs and floorplans. There were a few new designs, including a Country Coach motorhome with a side mounted automatically lowering patio aft of the entry door. The patio stores in the side of the coach for travel. The most notable towable design is from Carriage. It is available in both travel trailer and fifth-wheel configurations under the brand name of Domani. These shorter and lighter trailers feature an open floor plan with two L-shaped couches that are suitable for entertaining a crowd of your friends. Sharp interior angles have been eliminated in favor of curved radius walls and partitions, while exterior styling would be called “edgy” and “ different” for this venerable high-quality brand. Some of these units ride on huge 20-inch wheels and tires, which are said to offer a better ride. Most other manufacturers showed updates of previous designs. Airstream displayed their first toyhauler configuration in a well executed interior revision of this venerable brand. Although the toyhauler rear loading door wasn’t as wide due to this brand’s rounded rear, there was still room to load your golf cart or motorcycle, and the living part of the interior has a more basic appearance, showing more shiny metal and durable vinyl floor coverings. The trailer contained everything needed for extended living on the road. As part of a continuing promise to fellow TDR writer Sam Memmolo, I spent a day with Norman and Lenore Field of Atlanta who came to the show to gain information before buying their first RV. It was very interesting to see how they reacted to product features and floorplans as they narrowed their search down to one or two units out of the hundreds available at the show. Their plan is to buy a fifth-
TDRV . . . . Continued wheel trailer, then buy a Dodge Turbo Diesel pickup of the proper capacity to tow the trailer. That’s smart thinking! It didn’t take long for them to decide that some floorplans are better executed than others, and that certain features, such as power opening ceiling vents and a convection microwave oven would be important, and that a large uncluttered outside front storage cabinet made lots better sense than other designs that didn’t offer a large open space for big items we all carry. They also decided that dark colored fabrics and dark wood make an already small space seem smaller. They’ll buy their first trailer in May before retiring in September to begin their extensive travels. HIT THE ROAD TDR member Robert Foote is planning the purchase of a fifth-wheel RV, and wanted to know how much weight his truck can tow. It is a 1995 2500 series with a five-speed manual transmission. It has a freshly rebuilt transmission and a new clutch. He’s looking at a 24’ RV trailer and wanted to know if his truck can reliably pull that size unit. I answered that his choice would be a good one, and that it wouldn’t slow down much on the hills. A ’95 truck with the above specs has a gross combined weight rating (weight of both loaded truck and loaded trailer) of 15,000 pounds. As long as his weighed combination comes in below that number, he should be good for the long haul. Dodge was very conservative in their towing capacity ratings in 1994 and 1995 as evidenced by the fact that the 1996 models were rated to tow more, yet there were almost no changes to the suspension or powertrain. I towed using a 1994 truck with manual transmission for 137,000 miles, and the trailer weighed 10,500 pounds. Member Tom Wright wrote saying he’s going to Alaska in summer 2009, pulling a 2004 Holiday Rambler weighing less than 15,500 pounds using his 2006 3500 dually automatic with 4.10 rear gears. His concern is whether it would be wise to carry a set of tire chains in case he encounters snow. First, one should never ask a southern boy about driving in snow! I suggested to Tom that if it snows, it would be wise to get off the highway and into a campground until the weather clears and the plow has gone by. Though tire chains greatly increase traction on the driving wheels, you only get effective braking on those same wheels, while the others on the truck and trailer can easily be locked. That’s a recipe for jackknifing a trucktrailer combination and ruining your vacation trip. The snow chain rule for big trucks in most states requires the use of chains on the drive wheels and also on at least two trailer wheels. They’re a lot of work to install and remove, and pose a potential for body damage if a cross chain wears through. For such a long trip, I suggest tires with an aggressive “block type” tread pattern in all wheel positions on the truck. TDR writer Greg Whale forwarded a press release to me that announced the 2008-2009 RV park of the year by the National Association of RV Parks and Campgrounds. In the mega-park category, the winner was Ocean Lakes Family Campground, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. You can participate in a satisfaction survey of more than 4,000 RV parks by logging on to www.gocampingamerica. com and clicking on the “Review a Park” tab.
ISSUE 62 TDRV FOLLOWUP In issue 62 page 122, the TDRV column, there were a couple of interesting posts gleaned from the TDR website that need some amplification. A member signing himself as “Boatpuller” from Silverdale, Washington posted a question about installing an RV sewer dump setup at home for use by RVing relatives when they visit. I’ll add a caution that folks who use this dump should be told not to use any holding tank chemicals, as these can really mess up a septic tank system, and can also be detrimental to a municipal sewer system. If sewer odor is a problem even when using a tight fitting dump hose adapter, a sewer line “droop” or “trap” can be made by using a three or four-inch plastic sweep elbow or two to create the required liquid trap. TDR member John Haggerty posted an inquiry about weighing his new truck and fifth wheel trailer. Both answers given were good, but I’ll suggest a modified method. Weigh your rig as described, then pull off the scale and drop the trailer. Pull on the scale again with your truck and weigh it. The advantage of this method is that you now know the weight of your truck without the trailer, and by doing a bit of math you can determine the hitch pin weight of your trailer. Most trailer manufacturers stipulate how much hitch pin weight is allowable. If you have too much weight on the trailer tires and not enough on the hitch pin, you can move contents forward inside the RV to achieve a better balance. When weighing twice as in these examples, many truck scales either charge a reduced fee for the reweigh, or it is free. Inquire before weighing. ISSUE 63 TDRV FOLLOWUP In the Issue 63 TDRV column on page 102, TDR writer Bill Stockard noted to your scribe that brake controllers have changed. Your scribe stands corrected. Just because I had a problem finding a brake controller in 2004 that would work with my then-new trailer with hydraulic disk brakes, doesn’t mean the same thing is true today. It looks like Jim needs to do some shopping for a better controller! In Issue 63 on page 98, TDR writer John Holmes wrote that he felt the discussion of trailer weighing wasn’t complete, nor was the subject of tires properly rated for trailers. John recommends weighing each trailer tire individually to make sure no tire is overloaded. This scribe agrees that such a weighing service is beneficial, but it is almost impossible for the average RV user to access the “aweigh we go” service which is limited to a few large RV rallies per year. If you want a complete discussion of trailer weighing, the subject has been covered in several past issues of this magazine, as far back as Issue 35 on page 20. For most of us, the truck scale will have to suffice. After weighing, taking frequent tire temperature readings while traveling will quickly tell you which tire is loaded heavier than the others if tire pressures were all equal before starting off. If one tire is hotter than others, that tire is carrying more weight than its neighbors. Again, one can move weight around inside the trailer to improve both side-to-side and fore-and-aft weight distribution. Jim Anderson TDR Writer
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TDRV . . . . Continued AIR BAGS WITH A GOOSENECK HITCH I have Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on my ‘99 Turbo Diesel and recently purchased a B&W Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch. When installing the hitch, I had to remove the air bags to get the hitch in place. Now it appears that the air bag mounting brackets interfere with the hitch side braces. Does anyone have the same gooseneck hitch with Firestone air bags? kboettcher, Courtenay, BC I have a B&W Turnover Ball hitch and Firestone airbags. I had to make a slight modification to the air bag brackets. ChrisOlson, Juneau, AK I added a washer to each side to even out the brackets and the hitch release handle needed a mild bend upward to clear. I used the no-drill hitch and, if I remember correctly, the extra washers came with the bags. SSage, Daytona, FL GETTING THE “BRIGHTS” WHEN TOWING I got tired of people flashing their bright lights when meeting my ‘03 Turbo Diesel 3500 towing my fifth-wheel trailer so I built a set of blocks that pin in between the overload springs and the frame mounted overload spring bump stops to keep my headlights down. I built them to slide out easily when not towing since they will shake my dentures out driving without the trailer. RJBrooks, Cornelius, OR I went on the cheap. I adjusted the lights down with the trailer hitched up and I counted the turns. After unhitching the trailer, I use my Torx T-20 screwdriver and turn the opposite direction the same number of turns. JBallou, Bainbridge Island, WA I got tired of the flashing lights as well. I installed a set of air bags and my ‘08 Turbo Diesel 3500 is always level. RDHamill, NB NO-DRILL BOLT-ON HITCH BRACKETS I am planning to install a fifth-wheel type hitch on my ‘05 Turbo Diesel. In my research, I find that the no-drill bolt-on kits are averaging about $175 more than universal hitch brackets that require drilling the frame. However, the instructions for the no-drill kit seem much easier to understand and installation seems more forgiving. Has anyone had any trouble with the bolt-on brackets moving after installation? Do the mounting bolts have to be re-tightened frequently? alexanderJ I have a Pull Rite hitch with no drill brackets mounted to the frame rails, but it did require drilling four holes in the truck bed. It’s a clean installation, and when the in bed hitch components are removed, the bed is unobstructed.
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I’ve seen installations of a universal bracket on Dodge trucks and they are typically welded to the boxed frame. Depending on who does the welding, they can look great or look very unprofessional. Drilling into the frame rails isn’t an easy job and could easily eat up $175 worth of sweat equity. If you compare a no-drill, bolt-on bracket installation to a universal installation, you will see the additional $175 is for the material and labor cost to design and manufacture a vehicle specific bracket that is durable and lines up with the existing holes in the frame rails. LRutigliano, Clackamas, OR I have a Draw-Tite fifth-wheel hitch with no-drill brackets on my ‘06 Turbo Diesel. The brackets fit the shape of the frame perfectly. It was necessary to drill holes in the bed for the rails. When drilling the truck bed, use a short drill bit and be especially careful on the left front, which is above the fuel tank. For safety, I placed a piece of scrap sheet metal in between the bed and the fuel tank. The rails across the inside bed really don’t cause too many problems. Lift the nose of the leading edge of the cargo when sliding it in. meanmatt I installed the same Pull Rite Super Rail with the Super Bracket Mounting Kit, with four pins, as above. I purchased my hitch from Big Discount RV, 1-800-787-8295, www.bigdiscountrv.com, as they had the best price. It’s a lot of work and requires patience. There is no welding and no drilling except in the truck bed. My biggest problem was fishing the bolt sets through the box frame, especially on the passenger side, due to the muffler pin bracket in the frame. If you decide to use this system, I can give you a few helpful hints that the installation instruction doesn’t include. Grizzly, Albuquerque, NM RELOCATE SPARE TIRE HOIST I recently purchased a slide-in truck camper that overhangs the rear bumper by about 18-inches. While looking for a solution for lowering the spare tire, a Ford owner mentioned he was able to relocate the spare tire hoist socket because his camper blocked access to the socket. Has anybody moved the spare tire hoist socket to the wheel well area? BHolland I have an ‘03 Turbo Diesel 3500 with dual wheels and haul a Lance slide-in truck camper that overhangs the rear bumper four feet. I carry a 1/2-inch by 12-inch socket extension and a 1/2-inch drive ratchet. It works great for lowering the spare tire. Lrambo I rotated the lift assembly 90 degrees on my ‘96 Turbo Diesel 3500 so the lift rod comes out behind the passenger side wheels. The lift rod lined up with a hole in the frame. Sikos
WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE COMPUTER? by Andy Redmond
• Most engine computer damage is caused by electrical voltage surges/spikes and electrical circuit/component shorts.
Why do you ask about a computer and what does a computer have to do with my truck? Answer: a little or a lot, depending upon the model year of your Turbo Diesel. One of my favorite lines by the “Three Stooges” is the episode where they are parading as electricians. As with their follies, everything that could go wrong did go wrong, and their excuse was, it seems, “It’s the ‘y-r-uh’s’.” (New York speak for wires.)
• Always test for proper voltage and ground inputs to computer after consulting proper electrical diagram pin outs, before condemning the computer as faulty.
Is it the wires? Probably not.
• Remove negative battery cable(s) for several minutes, before removing/installing computer connectors to the computer.
As you read through some of the problems I’ve encountered you’ll need to know where to find the truck’s various computers. The chart below will give you the location of various computer controllers in your vehicle. Electrical dos/don’ts involving engine controller/computers. • Never use a test light when testing a computer. Use a digital voltage meter/digital multi-meter (DMM).
• Careful observation of connector pins (both male and female terminals) are important to ensure harness integrity and proper connectivity. Improper testing tools can damage pins!
This article shares some frequently-occurring problems that I’ve witnessed and also some practical tips about troubleshooting, not parts changing. Some of the following is better understood with the help of a Factory Service Manual and the review of its electrical diagrams. Although you may not perform electrical repairs on your truck, basic knowledge may help your local technician diagnose and repair your truck, saving you money on unnecessary repair parts.
• Touch something metal on the vehicle before testing a computer to avoid static electricity damage.
Electronic Computers by various Turbo Diesel Model Years
106
Years
Term
Location
1989-1991
SBEC (Single Board Engine Controller)
Driver side inner fender behind battery
1992-1993
SBEC/SBEC II
Driver side inner fender behind battery
1994-1995
SBEC II
Passenger side firewall behind air cleaner assembly
1996-1998.4
SBEC II / JTEC (Jeep Truck Engine Controller), also known as PCM (powertrain control module)
Passenger side firewall behind air cleaner assembly
1998.5-2002 (24 valve engine)
JTEC/PCM ECM (engine control module)
Passenger side firewall Driver side of engine block
2003
JTEC/PCM (with auto trans only) ECM (both auto and manual trans)
Passenger side firewall Driver side of engine block
2004.5-current
ECM (engine control module)
Driver side of engine block
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CAB All All
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Aeroflow Kit PART NO. 30244 30244 30249 37244 37249 31230 30237 30252
FROM THE SHOP FLOOR . . . . Continued First Generation The truck: 1993 Dodge Ram, D-250, with the Bosch VE rotary/ mechanical injection pump and an automatic transmission. The problem: No air conditioning, no cruise control, the alternator charges intermittently, no overdrive and direct-to-overdrive cycling. Other customer repair history showed no less than four AutoZone “Duralast” alternators and eight batteries within the last sixteen months. Input from the owner: “Sometimes at a traffic light or when bumping a parking block, the a/c will start working and the charging gauge will show a normal condition.” The Repair: First things first. Look for any technical service bulletins (TSBs) that might relate to the complaint. After a visual inspection several things caused concern: cruise control switches missing parts of their plastic covers, ratty battery cables, etc. However, let’s not condemn parts before we test them! An electrical check showed that the battery was fine, and the cables were functional, but the alternator was not charging. I next removed the alternator harness and, with a jumper, the alternator charged well and load tested properly. The a/c compressor could be started by a jumper at the pressure switch and also showed proper operating pressures. The conclusion thus far: no faulty parts. So apparently there is a problem with the wiring harness or with the controls commanding certain operations. Now, time to source the electrical diagrams. It is important in electrical troubleshooting to understand how the circuit is supposed to work; then the easier part of the repair is to locate the problem(s) within the circuit or the failed component. The in-depth diagram examination reveals two probable circuits that could affect the charging system functionality. One is the engine speed sensor or ESS (think crankshaft sensor). This sensor lets the controller knows the engine is running. This sensor is located on the gear housing and has a specified air gap above the vibration damper. Those two notches in the vibration damper allow the sensor to count engine rpms. Another important circuit is the auto shutdown and related relay and harness. Further, most Chrysler vehicles from 1990 forward utilize a engine controller to regulate charging voltage (cycles the alternator field on/off as target voltage is maintained. [12.9-15.0 volts]) versus an external voltage regulator. As Joe Donnelly stated (Issue 63, pages 79-80), the engine’s control module (in this case a SEBC II) requires certain inputs before it can command/control an output(s). An example is an “inbound” signal from the engine speed sensor. On a 1993, the engine speed sensor circuit is an 8-volt reference circuit, meaning 8-volts and a good ground should be at the sensor. The sensor signal (0-8 volts) varies the voltage based on conditional changes (engine rpm) to the SBEC II. Therefore, the controller sees this signal and presumes the engine is running and thereby will allow other outputs to function. Another example of an input signal is the TPS (throttle position sensor), which has a variable voltage of 0.70 volts at idle and 3.5-4.5 volts at wide open throttle position. This provides control of the sensors/solenoids on the transmission’s valve body (a 5 volt reference circuit).
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Wait, so how are some sensor circuits powered by 8-volts and others by 5-volts? Isn’t my charging system and battery a 12-volt system? Yes, but the engine controller reduces sensor voltage via a internal voltage regulation system to the lesser respective 8 and 5-volts on certain controller pins. Back to the problem. The engine speed sensor’s voltage was measured and the sensor was operating properly as verified by the input voltage to the controller. Other controller inputs, such as key on, engine off; ignition voltage (pin 9); and battery voltage (pin 3) were also validated. Proper grounds (pins 11 and 12) and a good sensor ground (pin 5) were validated. Next, the auto shutdown relay circuit was examined. The relay seemed to be problematic (relay coil opened and closed rapidly, relay pins 85 and 86). The ASD relay is one of the three gang relays mounted on the driver’s side inner fender. A jumper across pins 30 and 87 of the relay harness caused some excitement and the truck started charging at the next engine crank and the a/c clutch also engaged. I thought we had found the problem. A replacement relay was sourced and installed, but the charging system still operated erratically at times because the relay was losing controller output, a ground signal (pin 51). After further testing, the SBEC II engine controller was deemed to be the problem and a remanufactured unit was sourced from our Mopar dealer. Problem solved. So, why did the charging system not work? Why did the transmission shift improperly ? Why wouldn’t the cruise control work? Simple answer: improper inputs to the SBEC II caused bad outputs. Likely the relay coil fluctuation by the auto shutdown relay eventually damaged the relay driver circuit of the controller causing the various problems. The Mopar Reman part number for the SBEC II (manual or auto transmission) is R4746568, list price $225. Reference information: Helpful factory service manual pages are as follows: Chapter 8W-132, AD89, SBEC II controller pin out chart. Chapter 14-104 to 111 (fuel system chapter explains controller inputs/outputs and various component operation/tests/diagnosis).
So, why did the charging system not work? Why did the transmission shift improperly ? Why wouldn’t the cruise control work? Simple answer: improper inputs to the SBEC II caused bad outputs.
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FROM THE SHOP FLOOR . . . . Continued Second Generation/24-Valve Engine The truck: 1998.5-2002 with the Bosch VP44 electronic fuel injection pump.
The VP44 fuel injection pump (a rotary, fuel- lubricated, electronically controlled injection pump) can be powered-up without the aid of an ECM or the factory wiring. Disconnect the injection pump wiring harness connector.
The Problem: The truck won’t start. Is the VP44 injection pump failing or is there an ECM or related wiring harness problem? Could it be the infamous fuel transfer pump? The repair: Often veteran technicians skip over the basics. So let me start with the assumption that: • There is adequate fuel in the tank • Cold weather is not a part of the no-start problem • The fuel filter has been checked and is supplying clean, waterfree fuel to the VP44 injection pump • The fuel transfer pump is operating properly Wait…What is a fuel transfer pump? By now, we’ve all read about the infamous fuel transfer pump used on the ’98.5-’02 engines, right? What? You don’t know about this problematic part? Where have you been? Suggested reading is not the correct advice. Required reading is what is called for. You must understand how this inexpensive $200 part can cause the expensive ($1200+ labor) Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump to fail. You must understand the importance of fuel pressure to the VP44’s longevity. (Hint: without adequate fuel pressure the expensive VP44’s internals will fail in short order as it needs cool fuel for lubrication of the parts.) And you must install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure from the OEM transfer pump or that of an aftermarket fuel transfer pump. For full information about this, and all year model, fuel transfer pumps see Issue 63, page 24 and 108; and Issue 56, page 60-68; or the tdr1.com website. So, if your truck will not start, there is obviously adequate fuel pressure from the OEM or from your aftermarket fuel transfer pump. Right? Please, don’t tell me… you do not have a fuel pressure gauge. You don’t? Can you hear the pump run when you bump the starter and bring the key back to the on position? No noise? You’ve found the first problem. Replace the transfer pump and continue with the testing. Make a note to yourself that you have to purchase a fuel pressure gauge. Got noise? Remove the output fuel line from the fuel filter and test for fuel flow (‘cause obviously you don’t have a pressure gauge). The specification for flow is 40 ounces in 30 seconds. From here I’m going to assume that you have good fuel pressure. Next, let’s do some diagnostics at the VP44.
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Fabricate a temporary injection pump 12-volt power harness. Source a five-foot length of red, 12-gauge automotive wire. Affix a clamp to this wire for a connection to the positive battery terminal. About six inches from the battery terminal clamp, cut the red wire and install a 20 to 25 amp fuse and fuse holder (keep the fuse removed). Then source a suitable connector pin to attach to the fuel injection pump, pin # 7. Next source a five-foot length of black, 12-gauge automotive wire. Affix a suitable clamp to one end to attach to negative battery terminal. Source a suitable connector pin to attach to pin # 6 at the injection pump. Install fuse and crank engine. If the VP44 injection pump is okay, it will allow the engine to idle, but with no off-idle throttle control. With proper idle established, I would suspect the ECM and/or ECM harness problems are failing to properly control the FIPM (fuel injection pump module). If the engine does not crank I would suspect a failed injection pump.
FROM THE SHOP FLOOR . . . . Continued The truck: 1999, 2500 with Bosch VP-44, electronically controlled fuel injection pump, Carter transfer pump, and an automatic transmission. The problem: The engine cranks and runs for fifteen minutes, then shuts off and will not recrank until both negative battery cables are removed. Also, the truck’s batteries will go dead after several hours of inactivity, even with the ignition switch off. No diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). The repair: In the past, I have emphatically preached the ability to go back to stock, and I recommend removal of aftermarket engine performance enhancement products when troubleshooting electrical problems on your truck. Recently a failed performance enhancement chip mimicked a failing APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) and it drove me crazy. This truck was stock with no performance enhancements. The scanner was connected to the truck and no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) were present. I used the “power-up the VP44” trick that I outlined in the previous correspondence, and the truck started and would idle in excess of fifteen minutes. I also made a harness to remotely power the transfer lift pump, as it too would lose power when the truck died. This test points to ECM problems or ECM wiring harness problems. Next the factory service manuals were consulted and testing was performed with a digital multi-meter. Is it the ECM? Until recently I had only changed five bad ECMs on ‘98.5-‘02 Turbo Diesels over the past ten years. However, I’ve changed five in the past six months. ECMs cost less from Dodge than they do from Cummins with a respective list price of $700 versus $1,250. Both Dodge and Cummins can reflash the blank ECM with the proper flash coding, along with the mileage and VIN, as the remanufactured ECM comes blank. Although a used ECM can be installed from another model year, at best, VIN # and mileage won’t match JTEC if the Chrysler factory scan tool is attached. At worst, driveabilty concerns can occur from an incorrectly matched ECM. Aftermarket or independent ECM remanufacturers have ability to “bench” flash the ECM, so it’s a plug-and-play operation. Otherwise, expect to pay one-half to one hour of dealer diagnostic time to reflash the ECM (must be installed on the truck), because it is flashed through the OBD II diagnostic port.
Third Generation The truck: 2003, 3500, with the Bosch CP3 high pressure/common rail fuel system. The problem: Long crank time (cold or warm engine), fuel knock, loud injection, moderate engine vibration when reved in neutral, and a DTC P0602 “Ck. sum error ECM.” The repair: Rebuilt injectors solved the long crank time. The ECM flashed to most current software flash, but the pesky DTC remained. Sometimes the P0602 is simply a nuisance code after a reflash that can be corrected by flashing again. Sometimes it is a failing/ failed ECM that can cause driveability concerns. In this truck, after reflashing four times and having the DTC return, a remanufactured ECM was sourced and reflashed. Many aftermarket “chips” or power enhancement boxes can leave the P0602 code behind even after removal of the device. Several of the performance box manufacturers now offer software updates for their device to prevent this code from appearing. Starting in 2003, the ECM/PCM combination was eliminated in favor of a single ECM on manual transmission trucks and by 2004 the PCM was eliminated from the automatic transmission trucks. In 2003, the electrical systems became far more sophisticated. Other vehicle control modules include a Transmission Control Module (TCM); Front Control Module (FCM) combined with the totally integrated power module (TIPM) replaced the PDC (power distribution center); SRS (airbag) Module; ABS Module (anti-lock brakes); Overhead Module; Immobilizer Module; and Heated Seat Module. All of these control the truck’s various optional equipment. Perhaps now you can better understand the complexity and importance of the computers and modules in your truck. Without their proper operation, small to major problems can prevent the truck from running well. Andy Redmond TDR Writer
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Amsoil Dual By-Pass Oil Filter by Gary Wescott Oil is the lifeblood of engine. At the SEMA Show, (Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association), in Las Vegas last year, I had the chance to chat with some Amsoil people. They suggested that I could safely extend my oil changes up to 60,000 miles, and reduce filter changes to 25,000 miles using their remote Dual By-Pass Oil Filter System and their full synthetic 15-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Oil. Extreme conditions reduce those mileage numbers by about half. Could this be a way to protect the life of the engine on a long trip, and at the same time, reduce the consumption of oil and the related pollution oil changes produce? Obviously, driving conditions and your desire to have your Cummins engine go 500,000 miles without a teardown will factor into these numbers. I wondered, where did this technology originate, how does this dual-by-pass filter work, and why? Amsoil Originates in 1972 As a jet fighter squadron commander, Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio had ample opportunity to witness synthetic lubricants in action. These oils are used exclusively in jet engines because of three extraordinary performance characteristics: an ability to reduce friction and wear on engine components, an ability to function dependably at severe temperature extremes, and an ability to withstand rigorous and lengthy engine operation without chemical breakdown. Recognizing that these same benefits would prove invaluable in combustion engines, Amatuzio formulated the first synthetic motor oil in the world to meet API service requirements for automobile engines. The new lubricant performed like no other before it. When the first can of Amsoil 10W-40 appeared on the market in 1972, it signaled the birth of an entire industry. Things have come a long way since then, and the move from oil to filtration systems was a natural. The Amsoil Ea by-pass and full flow oil filters feature synthetic nanofiber media. (Ea is Amsoil’s designation for Absolute Efficiency.) Ea oil filters represent a major breakthrough in filtration technology. They have the best rating in the industry, providing a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns. Competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency. Working in conjunction with the engine’s full-flow oil filter, Amsoil Ea by-bass filters operate by filtering oil on a partial-flow basis. They draw approximately 10 percent of the oil pump’s capacity at any one
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time and trap the extremely small, wear-causing contaminants that full-flow filters can’t remove. The Amsoil Ea by-pass filter typically filters all the oil in the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives analytically clean oil. Amsoil filters are made with premium-grade full synthetic media, and they are guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, when used in conjunction with Amsoil synthetic motor oil in normal service. Another plus is that Ea oil filters also have significantly lower restriction than conventional cellulose media filters. Their small synthetic nanofibers trap smaller particles and hold more contaminants, resulting in lower restriction. During cold temperature warm-up periods, an Ea filter allows the oil to flow more easily compared to a typical cellulose filter. Lower restriction decreases engine wear. The reason Amsoil can guarantee Ea filters will remain effective for 25,000 miles or one year is based on the filter’s capacity. This refers to the amount of contaminants it can hold and still remain effective. Amsoil claims their Ea filters have a far greater capacity than competing filter lines, especially when used with Amsoil synthetic motor oils in normal service. Over the life of a conventional cellulose filter, hot oil will degrade the resins that bind the media. The Ea oil filters’ full synthetic media technology is resin-free. It uses a wire screen backing that is pleated with the media for superior strength. Ea oil filters are constructed with HNBR nitrile gaskets that are fully tested to extreme distances in severe environments. The filters also feature fully tucked seams, a molded element seal, roll-formed threads and a long-lasting premium-grade silicone anti-drain valve. To get an unbiased opinion, I went to Ken Imler Diesel Performance in Sacramento, California. Ken is one of the most respected diesel experts on the West Coast, and his staff of technicians is both experienced and meticulous. There are always two or three Dodge Rams in the shop undergoing maintenance or performance upgrades; and they regularly install the Amsoil Dual-Bypass oil filter system, often for reasons other than the advantages mentioned above. We watched while Steve Scott installed the dual filter system on a 2003 2500 with the 5.9-liter engine. This particular Cummins had a twin-turbo setup, and the cab had an electric step. Steve pointed out that on this truck, even with a stock single turbo, changing the oil filter was a “pain in the butt.” With the dual turbo system, it’s even more difficult, so Imler Diesel always recommends the Amsoil remote system to make maintenance easier. The kit we used, a BMK 25, included everything needed except the frame-mounting bracket. After moving some of the plumbing out of the way on top, the second step was to remove the plastic wheel-well liner. With the twin-turbo set-up, the air intake hoses come down even lower than normal.
Product showcase . . . . Continued Finally, Steve installed the optional BK13 petcock, which makes taking oil samples easy. He noted that it was important to remove the O-ring from the plug in the dual filter housing and reinstall it on the petcock before torquing it to 30 ft-lbs.
The Amsoil BMK25 kit.
Previous models of this truck had a strut from the bumper to the frame that could be used to mount the bracket for the remote filters. In this case, there was no such strut, and the electric step was in the way. Steve found a FASS system bracket from a Ford installation kit that was slightly modified and he used it to bolt onto the front body mount, just behind the bumper. It was important to get the mounting plate high enough so that the hoses would go over the frame without rubbing. Installation examples are shown on the Amsoil web site, but some creativity is always helpful. Without the twin-turbo modification, Steve said they would normally mount the bracket on the frame right behind the passenger-side fender well. It is important to get the dual filters as close to the oil supply as possible. In this more common location, a shield is fabricated to keep rocks and debris from doing any damage. With all the fittings loosened, the big inlet air tube was slid off and dropped down through the wheelwell. Once a location was determined and the bracket was ready, the installation went quickly. The factory oil filter was removed, and the Amsoil Dual Remote Filter adapter was screwed on and tightened to the specified torque. The design of the two-piece adapter made it easy to position the outlet port exactly where Steve wanted it. Detailed instructions with excellent drawings covered every step of the assembly. A 12-foot length of high quality ½” diameter hose was included in the kit. It was carefully measured and cut to length. All fittings and plugs that went into metal had O-rings to assure long leak-free operation. Permatex anti-seize was applied to all fittings on hoses, and Permatex Thread Sealant was used on all dual filter adapter fittings. No special tools were required, except for a 1 ¾” socket to tighten the primary adapter to the OEM filter housing. If that size is not in your toolbox, just tighten the secondary thread adapter to 40 ft-lbs with a 1” socket, and the primary plate will be correct. A 1” crow’s foot, a 1” and 1 1/16” box wrenches were used to tighten the hose fittings. Hoses were routed over the frame to the remote filter location. Short pieces of heater hose were slit and used for protective pads where even the slightest chance of abrasion could occur. Heavyduty wire-ties were used to limit movement of the hoses, which ran close to the AC unit just in front of the oil pan in this application. After reinstalling the plastic fender well, the filters were well protected. There was a small rolled lip on the lower edge of the plastic fender well that was trimmed off to keep it from rubbing.
In this application the best place to mount the remote filter bracket was on the front body mount on the frame.
It is recommended that if extended oil changes are followed, they be accompanied by an occasional oil analysis, available through Amsoil. (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oai.aspx) A single sampling analysis is useful in providing information when critical failure conditions exist. However, trend analysis is a better tool for estimating the useful life or overall condition of your engine or equipment. Trend analysis samples are taken and analyzed at regularly scheduled intervals. Comparing the most recent analysis to previous reports on a given engine shows the development of trends. Monitoring these trends enables early detection of internal abnormalities. Tested values falling within acceptable limits may show a pattern of subtle variance, which could signal a developing problem. A complementary oil analysis comes with the Dual By-Pass Filter kit. Steve had previously done an oil change using Amsoil 15-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine full synthetic oil. Both the Ea BP100 by-pass filter and the Ea 026 full-flow filter were filled with fresh oil and installed. It was obvious how easy future changes of oil filters would be. The combination of the two filters and the hose took nearly four quarts of oil, in part due to the fact that the factory filter had been removed and discarded. Bottom line: Synthetic oils are more expensive than petroleum based lubricants, but you may be able to go 30,000, 40,000, or even 60,000 miles between oil changes. When you think about it, Cummins engines aren’t exactly cheap. It can be an easy choice to move up to modern technology. Gary Wescott TDR Writer
Ken Imler Diesel Performance 916 920-3775 www.imlerdiesel.com
Amsoil Inc. 800 777-8491 www.amsoil.com
Permatex Inc. 877 376-2839 www.permatex.com
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Product showcase . . . . Continued 68RFE TRANSMISSION ANAYLSIS by ATS Diesel Performance In January 2007, Dodge and Cummins introduced the 6.7-liter diesel engine. The new engine transfers power to the ground through a new transmission (68RFE) and torque converter. The new 68RFE torque converter, built by ZF Sachs, looks very similar to the 47-48 RE converter. The new converter clutch is constructed in the opposite way of the conventional lock-up design. This creative design eliminated one of the splined connections. Conventional converter designs use a spring-loaded damper that is welded or riveted to the clutch piston. The turbine hub drives the clutch piston through the splined connection in the center of the damper. This connection was eliminated in the 68RFE converter by using a captive clutch design. In the ZF Sachs converter, the clutch piston is fastened to the cover with 9 bolts. The clutch friction plate rests between the converter cover and the clutch piston. The drive tabs of the clutch friction bend upward and wrap around the outside of the piston. A stamped-sheet metal drive plate is riveted to the turbine and it extends around the piston to mesh with the clutch friction disc material (see picture below).
Clutch Friction
To provide a Five-Star design for the 68RFE transmission ATS started with a conventional converter core. The converter cover, piston, turbine hub, and converter hub are all designed and manufactured by ATS.
Clutch Piston
Stamped Sheet Metal Drive Plate
The plastic wear plate on the 68-RFE stator was replaced with true roller bearings.
This design eliminates the need for the turbine hub-to-damper spline connection, but also limits the system to one friction plate. Adding another friction plate to this system would not increase the holding capacity. The added friction plate would simply act as a spacer. The surfaces of the multiple clutch packs would rest against one another, always rotating at the same speed. To make this converter setup operate as a true multi-clutch design, more pistons would have to be added between each set of additional friction plates. The ATS 68RFE converter is a true multi-clutch converter. As with all of the Five-Star converters, there are five friction surfaces that mate to three clutch steels, the piston and the cover. The ATS clutch pack has twice as much clutch friction material as the stock torque converter. More friction material equals more heat dissipation, which results in higher torque capabilities.
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Product showcase . . . . Continued An oversized turbine hub bearing is used in the billet cover. The picture below shows the bearing used in the factory 68RFE converter. The ATS bearing sits on top.
With the covers side by side, you can see the billet construction of the 12-bolt, ATS Five Star, 68RFE cover and compare it to the stamped factory cover.
The ATS turbine hub and converter hub are machined from 4140 steel.
Contact information: ATS Diesel Performance 5293 Ward Road Unit 11 Arvada, Co 80002 www.atsdiesel.com (866) 209-3695
A comparison of the factory stamped sheet metal clutch piston and the billet ATS clutch piston shows the drive lugs that create the true multi-clutch design that is unique to the ATS 68RFE converter.
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Product showcase . . . . Continued REAR SWAY BAR END LINKS – ’94 AND NEWER TRUCKS
A SOLUTION TO THE WHAM!
Suspension Maxx has come up with a performance improvement product for the rear sway bars. With this product the ball-in-socket joint is eliminated. The rest of the assembly consists of a highdurometer polyurethane bushing which is metal sleeved where the bolt goes through that holds the end link to the frame mounting point. The sway bar end contains two high-durometer polyurethane bushings, washers, lock nuts and a cup assembly that locates the urethane bushings to the end of the sway bar. This end link assembly effectively eliminates all the play in the end links. This reduces truck lean and allows more responsive steering. Using Suspension Maxx’s components on the front and rear sway bars, the truck’s handling has significantly improved.
It was a long time ago, but do you remember the first time you innocently opened a pickup tailgate? Likely you flipped the latch and weren’t prepared for the resultant WHAM! as the tailgate dropped to the open position. Tailgate down assist hardware is now available on various pickups as a standard feature or factory option. Once you’ve experienced a tailgate with a tailgate down assist (a mini gas-charged strut assembly), you’ll wonder why you took so long to add the accessory to your truck. The folks at Stabilus make the EZ Down product that slowly lowers the tailgate. Their product fits Dodge Ram applications (’03-’08 trucks), and it cost less than $60. The EZ Down is a bolt-on solution for easy tailgate lowering and theft prevention. DeeZee’s EZ Down kit comes complete with all the necessary hardware and instructions for an EZ bolt-on installation. The installation starts by unhooking one of the tailgate restraint cables and removing the stock bolt that holds it in place. The kit comes with a new double-sided stud and washer to replace the factory cable anchor.
Prior to installing the new rear end link assembly, I did some testing. I first disconnected the rear sway bar and drove the truck. Then I reconnected the factory end links and drove the truck. No real difference. The factory set-up does not have a positive feel to it. To complete the evaluation I installed Suspension Maxx’s set-up. The truck came alive! With the front end links already installed (TDR Issue 60) and now the rear end links, the play in the ball-in-socket joints is gone, resulting in a much more responsive truck.
With the new hardware secured in place, the upper loop of the gas strut is placed over the stud. The lower portion of the gas strut attaches to a special bracket that is supplied with the kit. Slip a Cclip over the pivot arm and the installation is complete. Check for clearances before closing the tailgate.
As a bonus, these end links are rebuildable. New polyurethane bushings are available through Suspension Maxx. David Fettig Moorhead, MN Contact information: Suspension Maxx, Inc. 1875 Freeland Road Bay City, MI 48706-9342 www.suspensionmaxx.com (989) 751-4565 phone (888) 629- 9226 phone (989) 667-7966 fax
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Caontact information: Geno’s Garage 1150 Samples Industrial Drive Cumming, GA 30041 TDR 64
www.genosgarage.com (770) 886-2500
TDRelease is a quarterly column that features press releases from Turbo Diesel vendors. NEW ATS 68RFE TORQUE CONVERTER The question was posed whether the new 68RFE torque converter would stand up to much more than stock power. Our Mustang Dynamometer and the real-world experience of customers towing heavy loads showed the answer to be “No.” Externally the new style converter looks similar to the previous 47RE and 48RE units, but the internal parts show considerable variance. The issue for heavy towers or performance customers is the amount of holding force made capable by the converter’s clutch system. With the factory clutch design the power transfer from the engine to the transmission relies on a single friction surface, leading to slippage during high torque situations.
aFe BLADE RUNNER ’03-’07 INTERCOOLER Advanced Flow Engineering (aFe), an industry leader in performance intakes, filters, manifolds and exhaust systems is pleased to announce the release of their new BladeRunner Intercooler for the ’03-’07 Dodge trucks with the 5.9-liter Cummins engine, part number 46-20011. The new aFe BladeRunner Intercooler represents the next generation in intercooler technology. The cooler uses aFe’s multi directional vane technology to efficiently direct air flow throughout the entire heat exchanger, helping to eliminate power robbing core heat soak and to provide maximum cooling. The intercooler core is a bar-and-plate designed core with TIG welded T6 6061 aluminum tanks for durability and strength. This intercooler has a huge 3” core and comes complete with 5-ply reinforced silicone hump couplings and stainless steel spring loaded T-bolt clamps for an easy yet secure installation. The cooler is rated for 200psi test pressure and is able to handle 1,000hp+. The BladeRunner Intercooler comes with four tapped 1/8” NPT ports to allow easy gauge installation and other input options. The Dodge part number 46-20011 has a price of $2,057.65 and is in stock.
ATS’ Five Star Converter design improves the transmission by changing the clutch pack to the proven five-friction system of individual stacked clutch steels. Each clutch steel is precision laser-cut by ATS and assembled inside the converter independently of the other clutches. The patented locking square tabs of each clutch ring alternate and spline into either the converter’s piston or cover. The individual clutch design means that ATS’ Five Star has twice as much friction surface area as compared to stock (just over 104 square inches). This additional surface area allows the Five Star to dispel more fluid heat than the stock clutch design and improves lifespan. ATS’ converter also features several other redesigned internal parts that are larger than the parts used in the factory 68RFE: the piston, turbine hub, converter hub, and billet cover. The ATS torque converter solves ballooning or mushrooming of the cover with a heavy duty shell. The ATS system uses a true roller bearing in place of the stock plastic plate for smoother and more reliable operation. Inside the billet cover an oversized turbine hub bearing made from 4140 steel is used for better strength. As with other Five Star Converters, the 68RFE model cover features a twelve bolt design which means that more bolts can be used when applied with the ATS Billet Flexplate
For more information on this or any other aFe product, please visit our website at www.aFepower.com or contact our technical service department at (951) 493-7126 or www.aFepower.com.
ATS Diesel Performance 5293 Ward Road Unit 11 Arvada, Co 80002 www.atsdiesel.com (866) 209-3695
advanced FLOW engineering 252 Granite Street Corona, CA 92879 www.afepower.com (951) 493-7100 TDR 64
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TDRelease . . . . Continued VALVE BODY FOR ’96 – ’07 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions has combined old school technology with advanced electronics with our new E618 valve body kit. The E618 valve body kit features solenoid-controlled shifts that are programmable for the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shift points. This is the best working valve body ever made. Shifts can be smooth, quick, positive and firm. The choice is yours. Sun Coast redesigned the valve body mid plate, solenoid blocks, pressure control and valves. They are CNC machined to provide quick and precise valve movement which results in a quick clean shift. We took the E618 valve body to the next level by adding an EPC (electronic pressure control). We can now precisely control when and where we add line pressure for shift feel and/or durability. With such precise control, this is the ultimate valve body for towing. There are 17 different controlled shift points for each upshift and downshift. We now have torque converter control that works in conjunction with gear downshifting for a true tow-haul
with transmission braking like the Allison. All of the parameters are programmable in minutes with your laptop. Some examples of the options on this controller and valve body: You could overdrive 1st, 2nd or even reverse; you could apply torque converter clutch in any gear, any time. All E618-VB and TCM-2000’s come with a custom program that is pre-installed for you. This will be an easy starting point and we will provide you with technical help to dial it into your preference. All we need is information like tire size, gear ratio and the max RPM at which you wish to upshift. There is very little wiring required. You must have a good TPS signal, power, ground and that’s it. If you are replacing a manual transmission we have an easy to install remote TPS available. If you are drag racing or sled pulling then I would recommend that you wire in a tach signal. With RPM, TPS, MPH, MAP, EGTs you can record your pass then play it back and adjust your shift points to improve your next pass. The data logger that is included is a very impressive tool for tuning. Data logging is one of the most powerful features offered by the TCM-2000 (our torque control unit). It allows a user to see transmission behavior and engine behavior. The extra analog and digital inputs offered by the TCM-2000 also allows the TCM-2000 to be used as a general data logging device for any other vehicle functions you may wish to record. Data logs may be viewed with the data log viewer software, Microsoft Excel or any other program that can handle the tab delimited values contained in the data log. SunCoast Diesel Transmissions 819 Navy Street Fort Walton Beach, FL 32547 www.suncoastdiesel.com (800) 868-0053
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Thought Provoking Discussions with Automotive/Motorcycle Journalist Kevin Cameron DIESEL ALTERNATIVES – MAKING THE CHOICE Over the past few years a number of competing combustion systems have entered the arena of choice. Originally the choice was only between spark-ignition and Diesel, but now we read about gasoline firect injection (GDI), homogeneous charge compression ignition (HCCI), stratified-charge, and lean-burn. At first, research seemed to be seeking ultimates—the lowest possible fuel consumption, the minimum of emissions. Today, with cost looming ever-larger as the controlling factor, and under the continuing pressure of such initiatives as the corporate average fuel economy (CAFE), ultimates mean less than finding the least expensive way to power whole fleets of vehicles across a range of weights and applications. Diesel engines are highly fuel-efficient and generate mighty torque, but they are also fairly heavy for their power, require an extremely high-pressure fuel injection system, and need complex and expensive technologies with tongue-twister names to clean up the nitrogen oxides that their hot combustion produces, and to remove particulates. HCCI promises Diesel-like economy from a lighter, cheaper engine—but when? The basic concept is to mix just enough stillhot exhaust gas with fresh charge, then let compression auto-ignite it almost uniformly. Because ignition takes place throughout the charge volume and not at a single point, there is no flame front and therefore there can be no detonation. Because of its exhaustdiluted charge, HCCI combustion is cool, generating little NOx and so requiring only moderate emissions technology. But progress in extending the range of its ability to fire in this way down to idle and up to full load is slow. Such engines may always be dual-mode, with spark assist at full load. Development continues—which means producible engines are at least a couple of years away. GDI is attractive because it can be adapted to existing engines, but it does require a fine-particle-size injector that is also fast enough to form the mixture inside the combustion chamber—not upstream in the intake flow, as is the case with ordinary electronic fuel injection. GDI increases volumetric efficiency by taking in only air during the intake stroke—no fuel. At one time it was believed that adding fuel to the intake air well upstream from the cylinder refrigerated the air by the cooling effect of fuel evaporation, allowing more air mass to fit into the cylinder. But in fact it turns out that the presence of liquid fuel in the intake stream efficiently gathers heat from manifold interior surfaces, heating the charge and reducing, not increasing, its density. Air—an excellent insulator—picks up less heat by itself. The resulting cooler charge is more tolerant of higher compression ratios, making possible increased torque.
Cadillac, as part of its program to gain a younger market with higher-tech engines and vehicles, developed its CTS V6 engine around GDI. The higher air-taking ability of this engine gave it the power of a 20% larger non-GDI powerplant. Now Ford is combining GDI with turbocharging in what they are calling “EcoBoost.” Making an engine smaller reduces friction by cutting the number and size of friction-generating components such as pistons, piston rings, bearings, and valve gear—but it also reduces power and torque as well. Adding a turbocharger allows the lost power and torque to be recovered, so there can be a net savings of friction. The result is a more fuel-efficient, but just as powerful engine. Combining such a downsized, but turbocharged, engine with GDI recovers even more power. The result, Ford claims, is V6s with the power of V8s, but with “up to 20%” better fuel economy. Because such engines are still fairly economical to build, the overall result can be valuable, affordable gains in CAFE for the manufacturer and attractively lower fuel consumption for the end user. The stratified-charge engine achieves economy gains by making it practical to operate at very lean air-fuel ratios. Sad to say, as combustion is made more and more intense—for example, by supercharging a spark-ignition gasoline engine—we don’t gain power in direct proportion to the mass of charge burned. What happens is that the conversion of combustion heat into cylinder pressure becomes less efficient the more intense that combustion becomes. We normally think of temperature as the average energy of the zillion colliding, zooming gas molecules in the hot combustion gas—but this is only an idealization. This zooming motion of the molecules is what translates into the pressure than drives pistons—the sum of all the molecular collisions with the piston crown. But in fact, as the combustion gas is made hotter, more and more thermal energy goes into rotation of the molecules, and into their internal vibrations. Because these motions translate less well into pressure on pistons, hotter combustion is less efficient than cooler combustion. And the more we dilute our fuel with air (provided we can still make it burn) the cooler will be the resulting combustion, and the more efficiently this cooler combustion heat will translate into piston push. Then trouble begins. Because a lean-burn engine adds less fuel to each cylinder-ful of air, it needs to be bigger to equal the power of a conventional engine. That means extra weight. And a lean mixture is hard to ignite, requiring special technology. The answer was to stratify the charge—to make it quite lean overall, but locally rich enough to be ignited by a conventional spark plug. That leads to more potential trouble, because any time you burn a normal, chemically-correct mixture you burn hot—and generate NOx that is troublesome to clean up. Round and round it all goes. The game is to find the technology or combination of technologies that requires the least overall cost— cost of research, cost of materials, cost of production, cost of fuel consumed. Today, the scarcity of money makes basic research less Continued on page 120.
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Exhaust note . . . . Continued attractive than somehow improvising ways to adapt what is already in production to perform in new ways with a minimum of technology. The probable result is that basic research will continue, but at a reduced pace, while companies concentrate on staying afloat and solving their technological problems in the cheapest ways and in the shortest time. Later, when (if?) economies revive, basic research can return to a faster pace. Kevin Cameron TDR Writer
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Advertiser..............................................................Page Number Airaid......................................................................................... 99 Amsoil........................................................................................ 99 ANSA Automotive.................................................................... 121 Association of Diesel Specialists............................................... 71 ATS Diesel Performance......................................................... 105 BD Power.................................................................................. 13 Borgeson Universal Co............................................................. 23 B&W Trailer Hitches.................................................................. 41 Centramatic Wheel Balance...................................................... 41 Cummins................................................................................... 59 Diesel Injection Services........................................................... 77 Diesel Performance Parts......................................................... 63 Diesel Performance Products......................................Back Cover Edge Products............................................................ Inside Front EGR Brakes.............................................................................. 57 Garmon................................................................................... 101 Larry B’s.................................................................................... 55 Luke’s Link................................................................................. 19 Mag-Hytec................................................................................. 67 Pacbrake................................................................................... 91 Perfection Clutch..................................................................... 118 Performance Systems Manufacturing....................................... 58 Rare Parts................................................................................. 17 Snow Performance.................................................................. 101 South Bend Clutch...................................................................... 9 Stanadyne................................................................................. 43 Standard Transmission and Gear.............................................. 81 Stan’s Headers.......................................................................... 80 Sun Coast Converters/PRO-LOC.............................................. 65 Superchips.............................................................................. 109 Suspension Maxx...................................................................... 27 TST Products...............................................................Inside Back Transfer Flow, Inc.................................................................... 109 Valley Chrome......................................................................... 107 Wagner & Associates.................................................................. 9 Business Referral Page........................................................... 120 Auto Wurks Diesel Gillette Diesel Service Goerend Gould Gear & Electric
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HTS J&H Performance Jannetty Racing Larry B
Liberator Performance Redmond Quad 4x4
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