GENERAL
INTRODUCTION
This section has the description and repair procedures for the steering axle. For information on the steering control unit, see the section THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT, 1600 SRM 54.
DESCRIPTION
The steering axle assembly includes an axle frame, steering cylinder, tie rods and two spindle and hub assemblies. The steering axle is articulated and is connected to the frame with center pivot mounts. The center pivot mounts permit the steering axle to move in the
frame mount when the lift truck travels over rough surfaces.
The center pivots for the axle are installed in rubber mounts on the following units:
H3.50–5.50XL (H70–110XL)
S/E3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL).
The center pivots for the axle are installed in the frame of the lift truck and rotate in fiber bearings on the following units:
H6.00–7.00XL (H135– 155XL)
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL).
The end caps of the steering cylinder are also the mounts for the cylinder and are held to the axle by capscrews. The ends of the piston rod extend from both ends of the cylinder. A single piston and the seal are at the center of the piston rod. Oil pressure on one side of the piston moves the piston in the bore. The piston pushes an equal amount of oil from the opposite side of the cylinder. The oil returns to the steering control unit.
When the piston in the steering cylinder reaches the end of the stroke, a relief valve controls the oil pressure. The relief valve for the steering system is in the manifold block that is installed on the steering control unit.
Each spindle turns on two tapered roller bearings in the axle frame. The pre–load on the bearings is controlled by shims at the lower bearing cap. The tie rods that connect the spindle arms to the cylinder do not have an adjustment.
The wheel hubs rotate on two tapered roller bearings and are held on the spindles by a castle nut. The bearing pre–load of the wheel hubs is adjusted by the castle nut. The grease seals protect the bearings from dirt and water. Wear sleeves prevent the seals from causing wear on the hub.
REPAIRS WARNING
Put the lift truck on blocks. Follow the procedures for raising the lift truck described in the OPERATING MANUAL for this lift truck. The surface must be solid, even and level. Make sure the blocks are solid one–piece units. Make sure the lifting devices used during repairs can lift the weight of the parts.
STEERING AXLE, H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) and S/E 3.50–5.50XL (S/E 70–120XL)
Removal (See FIGURE 1.)
The steering axle can be removed without removing the counterweight.
1. Make sure the wheels are set for straight travel. Put blocks under the frame in front of the steer wheels and under the counterweight so that the steering axle can be removed. The top of the axle frame must have clearance under the counterweight so that the steering axle can be removed.
2. It is not required, but it can make removal of the axle easier if the wheels are removed. (See page 4 for wheel removal) Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylinder. Install caps on the cylinder and put plugs in the hydraulic lines. The caps will prevent the spindles from turning when the axle is removed from under the lift truck.
3. Slide a floor jack or the forks of another lift truck under the steering axle. Raise the lifting device until it holds the weight of the axle assembly. Remove the four capscrews and nuts that fasten the two brackets under the rubber mounts. Remove the brackets and slowly lower the axle assembly. Carefully remove the axle assembly from under the lift truck.
Installation (See FIGURE 1.)
1. Install the rubber mounts on the axle. Make sure the part number is away from the axle frame and the tapered edge of the rubber mount is at the top.
2. Apply a lubricant that is approved for use with rubber (tire lubricant) to the rubber mounts. The lubricant is used where the rubber mount fits into the frame brackets.
3. Use a floor jack or another lift truck to put the steering axle into the position in the frame. Make sure the rubber mounts fit inside the frame brackets for the mounts. If necessary, lower the weight of the lift truck onto the axle to make sure the rubber mounts fit completely in the frame brackets.
4. Install the bottom brackets for the rubber mounts.
H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) units. Tighten the four bolts for the brackets to 72 N.m (53 lbf ft).
S/E 3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) units. Tighten the four bolts to 110 N.m (80 lbf ft).
5. Remove the plugs and caps and connect the hydraulic lines to the steering cylinder. Install the wheels if they were removed.
6. Operate the steering system to remove the air from the system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to the other stop. Check for hydraulic leaks.
WARNING
Put the lift truck on blocks. Follow the procedures for raising the lift truck described in the OPERATING MANUAL for this lift truck. The surface must be solid, even and level. Make sure the blocks are solid one–piece units. Make sure the lifting devices used during repairs can lift the weight of the parts.
STEERING AXLE, H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL)
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL)
Removal (See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
The steering axle can be removed without removing the counterweight.
1. Make sure the wheels are set for straight travel. Put blocks under the frame in front of the steer wheels, so
that the steering axle can be removed. The top of the axle frame must have clearance under the counterweight so that the steering axle can be removed.
2. It is not required, but it can make removal of the axle easier if the wheels are removed. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylinder. Install caps on the cylinder and put plugs in the hydraulic lines. The caps will prevent the spindles from turning when the axle is removed from under the lift truck.
3. Remove the two dust covers from the openings of the bearing caps
4. Slide a floor jack or the forks of another lift truck under the steering axle. Raise the lifting device until it holds the weight of the axle assembly. Remove the four capscrews and washers that fasten the two bearing caps to the frame. Remove the bearing caps and slowly lower the axle assembly. Carefully remove the axle assembly from under the lift truck.
Installation (See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
1. Install the spacer, shims and O–ring on each pivot shaft. Lubricate the pivot shafts with multi–purpose grease and install the bearings.
2. Use a floor jack or another lift truck to put the steering axle into the position in the frame. Make sure the pivot bearings fit in the mounts in the frame of the lift truck.
3. Install the bearing caps.
H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Tighten the capscrews to 320 N.m (235 lbf ft).
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Tighten the capscrews to 380 N.m (280 lbf ft). After installation, make sure there is zero clearance between the shims and the frame of the lift truck. Add or remove shims as necessary to get zero clearance.
6. Operate the steering system to remove the air from the system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to the other stop. Check for hydraulic leaks.
WHEELS AND HUBS, ALL UNITS
(See FIGURE 1., FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 5.)
Removal and Disassembly
WARNING
Completely remove the air from the tire before removing the tire and wheel from lift truck. Air pressure in the tires can cause the tire and wheel parts to explode causing serious injury or death.
1. Raise the axle to remove the weight from the tires, but have the tires still touching the floor. Loosen the wheel nuts just enough so that they can be easily removed. Raise the axle so that the tires can be removed. Use a tire jack to remove the tires and wheels.
2. If a tire jack is not available, raise the axle only enough so that the tires are just touching the floor. Slide the tires from the axle while they are still on the floor. It is helpful to put a lubricant on the floor (oil, grease, liquid soap, etc.).
3. Remove the wheels. Remove the grease cap. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut. Remove the bearing cone. Slide the hub from the spindle. Remove the inner bearing cone and the seal from the spindle.
4. If the wheel bearings must be replaced, use a brass drift to remove the bearing cups and the wear sleeve.
5. Remove the grease seal from the spindle.
6. Repeat the procedure for the other hub.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Cleaning
Clean all parts with solvent. Make sure the bearings are clean and dry.
Assembly and Installation
5. Remove the plugs and caps and connect the hydraulic lines to the steering cylinder. Install the wheels if they were removed.
1. If the bearings in the hubs must be replaced, use a press to install the new bearing cups in the hub. Install a new wear sleeve in the wheel hub.
2. Install the grease seal on the spindle. Lubricate the bearing cones and seal surfaces with grease. Make sure the bearings are filled with grease. Install the bearing cone on the spindle.
CAUTION
Do not damage the seals during installation.
3. Carefully slide the hub onto the spindle. On some units the hub weighs enough to require a lifting device during installation. Install the outer bearing cone.
S/E 3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) units. Install the solid wheel and hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing cone.
4. Install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to 200 N.m (150lbf ft) while rotating the wheel hub. Loosen the castle nut to less than 30 N.m (20 lbf ft). Tighten the castle nut to 35 N.m (25 lbf ft). Tighten the castle nut until the cotter pin can be installed. Install the grease cap.
WARNING
Add air to the tires only in a safety cage. Inspect safety cage for damage before use. When adding air, use a clip on chuck with enough hose to let the operator stand clear of the cage.
5. Install the wheel on the hub. Be careful not to damage the threads on the studs.
6. H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) and H6.00– 7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Install the wheels on the hubs.
H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) units. Tighten the nuts to 645 N.m (475 lbf ft).
H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Tighten the nuts to 610 to 680 N.m (450 to 500 lbf ft).
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Use the following procedure to install the wheels on the hub:
a. Lubricate the studs and nuts as shown in FIGURE 4. Do not get any oil on the outer surfaces of the wheel or the flange of the nut.
b. Start with the wheel nut at the top and tighten the nuts to 65 to 130 N.m (50 to 100 lbf ft) in the sequence shown. Make sure there is no dirt between the wheel and the hub. The wheel must fit over the pilot surface (23) and be tight against the hub. Tighten the nuts to 640 to 680 N.m (470 to 500 lbf ft).
WARNING
1.WHEEL
When the wheels have been installed, check all wheel nuts after 2–5 hours of operation. Tighten the nuts to the correct torque. When the nuts stay tight after an eight hour check, the interval for checking can be extended to time specified in the Periodic Maintenance section.
7. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.
SPINDLES AND BEARINGS, ALL UNITS
Removal (See FIGURE 1., FIGURE 2., FIGURE 3., and FIGURE 5.)
CAUTION
Do not hit the threads or the nut of the tie rod.
1. Disconnect the tie rods as described in the procedures for the Tie Rods.
2. Remove the grease cap from the spindle. Remove the capscrews from the bearing cap and shims. If necessary, remove the bearing cup from the bearing cap. See FIGURE 3.
3. Tilt the spindle and lift the spindle from the axle. If the bearing must be replaced, remove the bearing and seals from the spindle. If the wear sleeve and the bearing cup must be replaced, remove them from the axle frame.
4. Repeat the procedure for the other spindle.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Cleaning
Clean all parts in solvent. Make sure the bearings are clean and dry.
Assembly and Installation
(See FIGURE 1., FIGURE 2., FIGURE 3., and FIGURE 5.)
1. Install new seals on the spindle. Lubricate the seals with grease.
2. Lubricate the bearings with wheel bearing grease. Make sure the bearings are filled with grease. If necessary, press the new bearing cups into the steering axle frame and bearing cap. Install the wear sleeve in the steering axle frame.
3. Install the spindle in the steering axle and make the following bearing adjustment:
a. H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL), S/E3.50– 5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) and H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Install the bearing cap without the O–ring. Measure the clearance between the bearing cap and the axle. Remove the bearing cap and installenough shims to give a pre–load 0.00 to 0.13 mm (0.000 to 0.005 in). Install the O–ring on the bearing cap. Install the bearing cap and capscrews. Tighten the capscrews to 45 N.m (35 lbf ft).
NOTE: The spindle bearings must have no clearance. Install shims 0.00 mm to 0.13 mm (0.000 to 0.005 in) less shims than the measured clearance.
b. H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Install the bearing cap without the shims. Tighten the three capscrews to 20 N.m (27 lbf ft). Rotate the spindle, then tighten the capscrews to 20 N.m (27 lbf ft) again. Loosen the capscrews and tighten again to 14 N.m (10 lbf ft). Measure the gap. Install the correct amount of shims to equal the gap. Tighten the capscrews to 77N.m (56.8 lbf ft).
4. Install the grease cap on the top of the steering axle. Use a sealant between the grease cap and the steering axle.
5. Install the tie rod as described in the procedures for the Tie Rods.
6. Repeat the procedure for the other spindle.
TIE RODS, ALL UNITS
Removal
(See FIGURE 1., FIGURE 2., and FIGURE 5.)
CAUTION
Do not hit the threads or the nut of the tie rod.
1. H3.50–5.00XL (H70– 110XL), S/E 3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL), H6.00– 7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Use the following procedure to remove the tie rods on these lift trucks:
a.Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. To loosen the stud, hold a large hammer behind the spindle arm of the spindle. Hit the side of the spindle arm with another large hammer. The shock of the hammer from hitting the spindle arm will normally loosen the tapered stud.
b.The spindle and tie rod can be removed as a unit. Disconnect the tie rod at the retaining pin inside the dust cover.
S/E 3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) units. It is necessary to raise the steer wheels 8 to 15 cm (3 to 6 in) from the floor on Use a hammer and a drift to push the pins for the tie rods upward.
2. H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Remove the capscrew, anchor pin and tie rod pin from each end of the tie rod.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Cleaning
Clean all parts except the ends of the tie rods in solvent. Make sure the bearings are clean.
H13.00–16.00XL (H300–360XL)
Installation
(See FIGURE 1., FIGURE 2., and FIGURE 5.)
1. Use the following procedure to install the tie rod to the spindle arm or steering cylinder:
a. H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL), S/E3.50– 5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) and H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Tighten the castle nut to 165 N.m (120 lbf ft). Tighten the castle nut until the cotter pin can be installed.
b. H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Install the seals on the tie rod bushings. Use a alignment pin to align the seals with the bushings. Lubricate the pin with an anti–seeze compound and install the tie rod pin into the tie rod and cylinder rod or spindle arm. The grease fittings on the tie rod pins must face downward. Install the anchor pin and cap– screw to fasten the pin. Tighten the capscrew in the anchor pin to 44 N.m (33 lbf ft).
NOTE: The tie rods do not have an adjustment.
STEERING CYLINDER
Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 6.)
NOTE: The end caps of the steering cylinder are held in the shell by the cylinder mount capscrews. To prevent oil leaks at the caps, hold the caps on the shell during removal.
1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylinder. Install caps in the fittings on the cylinder and put fittings on the hydraulic lines.
2. Disconnect the tie rods as described in the procedures for the Tie Rods
3. Remove the capscrews and washers that fasten the cylinder to the axle frame. Hold the end caps on the shell and remove the steering cylinder.
4. Hold the end of the steering cylinder over a drain pan. Remove the cap for the hydraulic fitting from each end cap. Push the rod toward the end of the shell that is over the drain pan. Oil will drain from the cylinder. Repeat the procedure for the other end.
5. Carefully slide one end cap from the shell. Carefully pull the rod from the shell. Keep the rod in the center of the shell during removal. Remove the end cap from the rod. Remove the other end cap from the shell. Remove all seals, wipers and O–rings.
Cleaning and Inspection WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning solvents, always follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Clean all parts in solvent. Use compressed air to dry the parts.
Inspect the piston rod for grooves or damage. Remove small scratches with fine emery cloth. Inspect the cylinder bore for damage. Inspect the mounts for cracks. Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 6.)
1. Put the O–rings, seals and wipers in warm hydraulic oil. Install the O–rings, seals, and wipers.
CAUTION
Do not damage the O–rings, seals or wipers during installation.
2. Lubricate the O–rings, seals and wipers with O–ring lubricant and carefully install one end cap on the rod.
3. Carefully slide the rod into the shell. Keep the rod in the center of the shell during installation. Carefully slide the end cap into the shell. Carefully install the other end cap on the rod and shell. Put caps on the hydraulic fittings of the end caps.
4. Hold the end caps and install the cylinder on the axle frame using the capscrews and washers. Make sure the end caps are fully engaged with the shell, then tighten the capscrews.
H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) and S/E3.50–5.50XL (S/E70–120XL) units. Tighten the capscrews to 225 N.m (165 lbf ft).
H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) units. Tighten the capscrews to 245 N.m (180 lbf ft).
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) units. Tighten the capscrews to 435 N.m (320 lbf ft).
5. Install the tie rods as described in the procedures for the Tie Rods.
6. Remove the plugs and caps and connect the hydraulic lines to the steering cylinder. Start the engine and operate the steering system to remove the air from the cylinders and the system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to the other.
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION
The steering wheels do not move when the steering wheel is turned.
The oil level is low or there is no oil in the tank.
The steering control unit is damaged.
No oil flow from the steering control unit to the steering cylinder.
Slow or difficult steering. Relief valve for the steering system needs adjustment.
Low oil pressure from the hydraulic pump.
Seal in the steering cylinder has a leak.
Steering control unit is worn or has damage.
Fill tank. Check for leaks.
Repair or install new control unit.
Repair or install new components. Check for leaks.
Adjust or install new relief valve.
Check for restrictions. See Troubleshooting Chart ”Hydraulic System”.
Install new seal.
Repair or install new control unit.
Steering wheel turns the tires in the wrong direction.
Steering function continues after the steering wheel stops.
The hydraulic lines are not connected correctly at the steering cylinder or at the steering control unit.
The steering control unit was assembled wrong or has damage.
There is air in the steering system. The oil level in the tank is low.
Air was not removed after repair to the hydraulic or steering system.
The hydraulic pump has an air leak at the inlet.
Connect lines properly. Remove air from the system.
Repair or install new control unit.
Add hydraulic oil as necessary. Check for leaks.
Remove air from the system.
Repair system. Remove air from the system.
GENERAL
INTRODUCTION
This section has the description and the service procedures for the air compressor.
DESCRIPTION
The air compressor maintains the supply of air for the brake system. The compressor is water cooled and is driven by the engine. The compressor is lubricated with oil from the engine.
OPERATION
The air compressor runs all the time the engine is running. The compression of air is controlled by the governor. As the piston moves down, air enters the compressor through the inlet valve. As the piston moves up, the
air in the cylinder is compressed. The compressed air leaves the compressor through the outlet valve. The air then enters the air tank.
When the pressure of the air reaches the maximum setting of the governor, the governor opens. While the governor is open, air from the air tank returns to the compressor through the governor. The air from the air tank enters the chamber for the release valves. The valves move up and hold the inlet valves off of their seats. The air is then transferred between the cylinders. There is no compression of the air at this time. When the pressure of the air in the tank reaches the minimum setting of the governor, the governor closes. The air is released from the chambers for the valves and normal operation starts again.
REPAIRS REMOVAL
1. Open the drain valve to remove the air from the air tank.
2. Put tags on the lines at the compressor. Disconnect the air lines and the oil lines at the compressor. Put caps on the open lines. Disconnect the water lines. Put caps on the open lines.
3. Disconnect the drive shaft coupler at the compressor or remove the drive belt.
4. Remove the compressor from the engine.
WARNING
Commercial cleaning solvents may be flammable and toxic, and can cause severe skin irritation. When using commercial cleaning solvents, always comply with the solvent manufacturer’s recommended safety precautions.
Compressed air can move particles so that they cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make sure that the path of the compressed air is away from all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face shield to prevent injury to the eyes.
5. Clean the outside of the compressor with solvent. Use compressed air to dry the compressor.
DISASSEMBLY (See FIGURE 1.)
Cylinder Head
1. Put the compressor in the vice.
2. Loosen the head bolts (39). Remove the cylinder head assembly (13) from the cylinder block (2).
3. Remove gaskets (50) & (29),and Valve Reed (28).
4. Mark for identification gaskets (50), (29), and Valve Reed (28).
5. Remove pin (51), unloader cap (24), O–ring (22) and washer (23). Mark for identification pin (51), unloader cap (24), O–ring (22) and washer (23).
6. Release retainers (20). Remove valve (25). Remove retainers, bushing, and spring (15),(16),(18), and guide (19). Mark for identification retainers (20), the valve (25), the spring seat (15), bushing (16), spring (18), and guide (19).
7. Remove the valve plate (26) and gasket (17). Mark for identification (26) and (17).
8. Remove the bolts (35) and washers (34) from the pressure plate (32) and clamp plate (33). Remove the pressure plate (32) and clamp plate (33). Mark for identification the bolts and washers (35 and 34), the pressure plate (32) and the clamp plate (33).
CAUTION
For correct air compressor operation, change the complete valve plate.
Crankcase
1. Remove the mounting bolts (8) and capscrew (9) from the flange (3). Remove the flange (3) from the cylinder block (2) by pulling away from the cylinder block.
2. Mark for identification mounting bolts (8), cap–screw(9), flange (3), and cylinder block (2).
1. Air Compressor
2. Cylinder Block
3. Mounting Flange
4. O–Ring
5. Bushing
6. Bushing
7. Ball
8. Mounting Bolts (4)
9. Capscrew
10. Crankshaft
11. Bushing
12. Plugs
15.
3. Remove the O–ring (4). Remove bushing (6) from flange (3) by pushing on bushing (5). Mark for identification O–ring (4), bushing (6), bushing (5), and flange (3).
4. Remove the plugs (12) from the base of the cylinder block (2) and rotate the crankshaft (10) to the lower cen-
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ter position. Remove the two bolts (44) from the connecting rod (42) . Remove the bottom connecting rod cap (42) and the bearing (43).
5. Mark for identification plugs (12), crankshaft (10), bolts (44), connecting rod (42) , and the bearing (43).
6.Move the piston (46) to top center. Remove the crankshaft (10) from the cylinder block (2).
7. Remove the piston (46) with the connecting rod (42) from the cylinder block (2). Take the connecting rod (42) out of the piston (46) by removing the snap rings (48) and the piston pin (47).
8. Mark for identification the piston (46), snap rings (48), and the piston pin (47).
CLEANING
Clean all metal parts in cold solvent and dry them with compressed air. Make sure all carbon is removed from the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
WARNING
Compressed air can move particles so that they cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make sure that the path of the compressed air is away from all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face shield to prevent injury to the eyes.
INSPECTION
Crankshaft
Measure the diameters of the crankshaft (10) at the positions for the connecting rod bearing (43) and the crankshaft bushings (5 and 11). If the dimensions are not within the permitted tolerances shown in FIGURE 2., install a new crankshaft.
Connecting Rod
1. Use the connecting rod bolts (44) to fasten the upper and lower parts of the connecting rod (42) to the bearing (43). Use a torque wrench to tighten the connecting rod bolts to 11 Nm (8.12 lbf ft.). Measure the internal diameter of the connecting rod bearings (43).
2. The permitted internal dimension for the connecting rod bearing is 35.009 to 35.034 mm.
If the connecting rod bearing dimension is not within the permitted tolerance, install new connecting rod bearings.
3. Check the hole for the piston pin (47) in the connecting rod (42) with an internal micrometer. The permitted internal dimension is 20.02 to 20.033 mm.
If the hole diameter is not within the permitted tolerance, install a new connecting rod.
Crankshaft Bushings
1. Check the internal diameter of bushing (5 and 11). The permitted limits of the inner diameter are 35.030 to 35.055 mm.
If the dimensions are not within the permitted tolerances, install new crankshaft bushings.
ASSEMBLY
1. Install the piston rings (49) to piston (46) with the end clearance at approximately 120° to each other and with the “TOP” mark on the rings placed toward the top of the piston.
2. Lubricate the bore of the piston end of the connecting rod with SAE 20–30 oil. Assemble the piston (46) to the connecting rod (42) with the piston pin (47). Install the snap rings (48).
3. Inspect the piston pin (47) to make sure it is a sliding fit in the bore of the connecting rod. Make sure the snap rings (48) are fully and correctly located in their grooves.
4. Install the crankshaft bearings (43) to the connecting rod and caps. Make sure that the bearings are correctly located. Lubricate the bearing with SAE 20–30 oil.
5. Lubricate the piston (46) with SAE 20–30 oil. Install the piston into the cylinder bore to the top–center position.
CAUTION
Make sure the piston and rings are not damaged during this operation.
6. Install the bushing (11) in the cylinder block (2).
7. Lubricate the bushing (11) in the cylinder block with SAE 20–30 oil. Assemble the crankshaft (10) to the cylinder block (2) with the pin at the top–center position. Protect the crankshaft against transverse movement.
8. Position the connecting rod bolts (44) in the cap. Assemble the cap (42) and the rod to the crankshaft.
CAUTION
Position the cap and bearings correctly on the rod.
9. Tighten the connecting rod bolts (44) finger tight using an extension bar.
10. Install the bushings (5) and (6) into the flange (3).
11. Lubricate the mounting flange O–ring (4) with a Multi–Purpose grease containing 2 to 4% Molybdenum Disulfide. Install the O–ring on the Flange (3).
CAUTION
Make sure the O–ring is not damaged during this operation.
12. Lubricate the bushing (5) in the mounting flange (3) with SAE 20/30 oil. Assemble the flange subassembly to the cylinder block.
CAUTION
Make sure the O–ring is not damaged during this operation.
13. Apply Loctite 222 to the underside of the head and to the shank of the two mounting bolts (8) located inside the mounting flange. Tighten all four bolts to 40 to 49 N.m (29.5 to 36.2 lbf ft).
14. Tighten the connecting rod bolts (44) to 14.4 to 17.6 N.m (10.6 to 13.0 lbf ft).
15. Check the crankshaft (10) for free rotation. Check that the float is within the limits of 0.05 to 0.35 mm.
16. Assemble the unloader spring seat (15) into the cylinder head (14). The seat must fit closely into the bottom of its bore.
17. Assemble the cylinder head gasket (17) and the cylinder head subassembly to the valve plate (26).
18. Insert the valve (25) through the valve plate (26). Assemble the spring (18) and spring guide (19) over the
valve (25) in the cylinder head (14). Assemble the retainers (20) to the valve.
CAUTION
Position the retainers correctly in both the spring guide and on the valve.
19. Lubricate the O–ring (22) and the piston (21) with Silicone Spray (Hyster Part No. 328388). Assemble the O–ring to the piston.
CAUTION
Make sure the O–ring is not stretched or damaged during this operation.
20. Slide the piston (21) into the unloader cap (24).
CAUTION
Make sure the O–ring is not damaged during this operation.
21. Apply anti–seize lubricant to the top of the valve stem. Close the unloader port by installing the unloader cap to the cylinder head.
CAUTION
Do not cross–thread the unloader cap or produce metal shavings during this operation.
22. Tighten the unloader cap to 80 to 95 N.m (59.0 to 70.1 lbf ft).
23. Discard the head bolts. Assemble the head assembly (13) to the cylinder block (2) using new head bolts. Make sure that the gaskets are assembled correctly. See FIGURE 3.
CAUTION
Make sure that the Valve Reed (28) stays in the correct position during this operation.
24. Tighten the head bolts (39) using the sequence shown in FIGURE 4. to 15 to 20 Nm (11.1 to 14.8 lbf ft). Tighten an additional 1/4 turn using the same sequence.
25. Apply Loctite 648 to the cylinder block plugs (12) . Press the plugs into the cylinder block (2) perpendicular to their bores and 0.5 mm (0.02 in) below boss face.
26. Install the plug (51) in the unloader cap (24). Install the key in the crankshaft.
CAUTION
Make sure not to damage the key or the crankshaft during this operation.
TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLE PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTIVE
Compressor does not keep correct pressure in the air brake system.
Dirt is in the air stainer.
A restriction is in inlet or outlet ports of the compressor.
The outlet valve is damaged or dirty.
The air compressor has too much wear.
Inlet valves stay in the open position.
Too much leakage of air in the brake system.
ACTION
Clean or install a new element in the air strainer.
Clean the inlet and outlet ports of the compressor.
Clean or install a new outlet valve. Repair or install a new compressor.
Clean or install new inlet valves. Repair the inlet valve and seat.
Noise in the air compressor during operation.
Too much carbon in the cylinder head or outlet valve.
Too much wear on the bearings or the bearings are burned.
The air compressor has too much wear.
Disassemble the compressor, clean the cylinder outlet hose, valve and outlet.
Remove and install new bearings.
Repair or install a new compressor.
Compressor uses too much oil.
The compressor has too much wear. Dirt is in the air strainer.
The oil pressure is too high.
Compressor does not release. The outlet piston grommet is damaged.
The outlet cavity has too much carbon.
Outlet mechanism not working.
The oil supply or the return lines to the engine cylinder block are full of oil. Piston rings for oil control are not installed correctly.
Repair or install a new compressor. Clean or install a new element in the air strainer.
Clean the oil passages and lines. Install a new release valve.
Disassemble the outlet piston and install a new grommet
Clean the air cavity for the outlet valve.
Repair the outlet system for easy operation.
Drain and clean the oil lines.
Remove pistons and correctly install a new set of piston rings.