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Fo re w o rd
BA (Hons) Fashion Atelier was launched in 2008 by the University for the Creative Arts. The course is dedicated to the importance of craft and heritage skills to the design process. 2013 is the third year that we have a graduation cohort and this years graduates have produced some of the strongest work to date. Students from Fashion Atelier have gone on to find employment on Savile Row as well as internationally respected fashion houses such as Marc Jacobs and Celine. Industrial work placements have also been far-reaching and with international companies such as Anne Demeulemeester, Viktor & Rolf and Rick Owens to name a few.
The Graduates of 2013 are a talented and dedicated group of individuals. They have raised the majority of the funding for this publication themselves through a variety of innovative ideas and events. I would like to thank them for their efforts. I wish to thank the fabric stores in New York such as B&J, Rosen and Chadick, Mood and Elegant Fabrics who supported our students on their annual fabric-sourcing trip.
This publication is divided into two distinctive sections. The first section is dedicated to the Process, the second section is dedicated to the Graduate’s final work. The Process section demonstrates many of the skills which are taught on the course and can be over looked when seeing the final products. Draping on the stand, traditional bespoke tailoring methods as well as couture dress making methods are coupled with illustration and development of creative design ideas. I would like to congratulate the students for their dedication and innovation. They continue to be a source of inspiration for the staff of Fashion Atelier. Amer Kamal Course Leader BA (Hons) Fashion Atelier
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P r o c e s s
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P r o c e s s . The process chapter is a collection of images showing the graduates collections in the making. This section demonstrated the level of garment construction skills produced on Fashion Atelier from the inside out. This section celebrates the level skill and hand craftsmanship learned on fashion atelier including draping on the stand, creative pattern cutting, bespoke tailoring techniques and soft fabric manipulation and ďŹ nishing. Highlighting the process of a creating a high end collection that begins with a concept and seen through via croquis, draping, experimentation, toiling, development, fabric sourcing and handling to ďŹ nal garments, ďŹ nishings and illustration.
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Details Hand finishings C o r k Fa b r i c Pleats Wo o l s C a nva s e s F l a t fe l l e d s e a m s
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B e s p o k e Ta i l o r i n g M e t h o d s Pa d st i tc h i n g B a st i n g Fe l l st i tc h i n g C a nva s s i n g H a n d st i tc h e d l i n i n g s
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Fabrication H a n d f i n i s h e d d o u b l e fa c e d wo o l
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Fold line
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Methods D ra p i n g o n t h e sta n d C re a t i ve p a tte r n c u tt i n g F l a t p a tte r n m a n i p u l a t i o n
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Soft Fabric finishings H a n d m a n i p u l a te d p l e a t i n g Beading
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Development Concept C ro q u i s Experiment I l l u st ra t i o n
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G r a d u a t e s ’
W o r k
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Holly Adams ‘ D i s a r raye d g e o m e t r y ’ h o l l y. a d a m s 0 7 @ g o o g l e m a i l . c o m +44(0)7896894356
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Te s s a A t k i n s ‘ The en[able]d body ’ te s s a t k i n s 0 1 @ g m a i l . c o m +44(0)7588718313 w w w.te s s a a t k i n s . c o . u k
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Helen Jane Barton ‘A c o l l i s i o n o f m u l t i p l e s ’ helenjanebarton@hotmail.com +44(0)7545454978
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Hollie Bellis ‘A D i a m o n d a s B i g a s t h e R i t z ’ H o l l i e . b e l l i s @ l i ve . c o . u k +44(0)7581036007
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Megan Brophy ‘ U l t rav i o l e n c e ’ m e ga n . b ro p hy @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k +44(0)7772516154 w w w. a r t st h re a d . c o m / p / m j b ro p hy
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Hannah Cooper ‘A c t i ve / Re a c t i ve ’ hannahcooper5@hotmail.co.uk +44(0)7539216732 h a n n a h fayc o o p e r.t u m b l r. c o m
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Grace Driver ‘ C o n te m p o ra r y R u i n s ’ g ra c e d r i ve r @ l i ve . c o . u k +44(0)7926876944
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Fiona Harrison ‘ I n t h e b l i n k o f a n e ye ’ fionaharrison14@gmail.com +44(0)7523325948 f i o n a l o u i s e - a te l i e r.t u m b l r. c o m 53
Matthew Karp ‘Embark’ m a tt h e w. ka r p @ h o t m a i l . c o m +44(0)7412788822 m a tt h e w ka r p . p o r t fo l i o b ox . n e t
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Lauren Mckay ‘ P ro fo u n d s i m p l i c i t y ’ x l a u re n 4 x @ h o t m a i l . c o m x l a u re n 4 x .w i x . c o m / l a u re n k i m b e r l e y m c kay
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Emma Parke-Wolfe ‘Beauty in 1.618’ e m m a p a r ke w o l fe @ ya h o o . c o . u k +44(0)7504320166 w w w. e m m a p a r ke w o l fe . c o . u k
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Francesca Perez ‘Lux’ f. a . p e rez @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k +44(0)7563517804
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Vinnie Rattan ‘A s s e m b l y Re q u i re d ’ v i n n i e . ra tta n @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k +44(0)7730413635 w w w.v i n n i e r. c o . u k
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Hannah Abbie Rogbeer h a n n a h ro g b e e r @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k
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Lucja Sliwinska ‘1984’ m a c ra e . l u c j a @ g m a i l . c o m +44(0)7907903282 p e r fe c t p i g e o n . b l o g s p o t . c o . u k
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Katie Timothy ‘ H o m a g e to Fo n ta n a I I I ’ ka t i e .t i m o t hy @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k +44(0)7760668517
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Hannah White ‘ Pa n n i e r d re s s ’ ( r i g h t ) h a n n a h - w h i te @ h o t m a i l . c o . u k +44(0)7817338848
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Charlotte Wray ‘ The Rape of the Lock’ g o o d c h a r l o tte _ 4 3 @ h o t m a i l . c o m +44(0)7837528297
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G r a d u a t e s
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L e c t u re rs a n d Te c h n i c a l S ta f f o f Fa s h i o n Ate l i e r A m e r Ka m a l - S u a r t M c M i l l a n - Ko k i Ka n g - Te e ra b u l S o n g v i c h - A n to n i o C i u tto - A l a n N o r r i s - Eva B l o n s ka - M a n d y M i l l s - D av i s L o n g s h a w - Ro s e S m i t h - Ka te B r i g h t m a n - A n n e Re i m e rs - S a ra h L L o yd - S a ra h S ta c e y.
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Fo l l o w t h e c o u rs e a n d t h e st u d e n t s o n Fa c e b o o k : U C A Fa s h i o n Ate l i e r u c a f a s h i o n a t e l i e r.t u m b l r. c o m Tw i tte r : U C A fa s h _ a te l i e r H a s h ta g s : # u c a fa s h i o n a te l i e r # fa s h i o n a te l i e r w w w. u c re a t i v e . a c . u k
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