AVLÍ

AVLÍ

BY THOMAS SONG PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK

>> NEIGHBORHOOD RIVER NORTH, LINCOLN PARK, WINNETKA

>> PRICES $$

>> DISHES TO TRY

CARAMEL BAKLAVA ICE CREAM KATAIFI PRAWNS

OCTOPODI BRIAMI

Avli refers to a group of three Greek restaurants in the Chicagoland area, one in Winnetka, one in Lincoln Park, and one in River North, that all seek to offer guests a reinvented and modern interpretation of classic Greek dishes. We chose to try out the River North location due to its convenient location in the middle of such a bustling, quintessentially urban neighborhood. Upon arriving at the restaurant, we noticed that the restaurant’s ambience was defined by light, muted colors, large windows letting in ample amounts of sunshine, and subtle, wooden tones for the walls, tables, and seats. The atmosphere of the restaurant was vibrant and open, as sunlight shone through the large windows and infused the restaurant with an almost Mediterranean sense of brightness. Yet, there was also a level of intimacy and casualness in terms of the decorations and design, which allowed patrons to feel like there were at an aesthetic, chic city restaurant without too much stuffiness or pretentiousness. We chose to sit in the semi-enclosed patio area, which allowed us to catch a glimpse of the lively street scene close by and enjoy the fresh spring air, without having to risk getting soaked in the event of sudden rain. The restaurant also offered ample indoor seating, as well as tables that were completely outdoors on their street-side patio. Focusing on the dishes themselves, we decided to order a selection of small and large plates to share in order to gain a wider sense of the restaurant’s gastronomy. We began with the Kataifi Prawns, which featured four grilled prawns wrapped in shredded filo with a boukouvo pepper dipping sauce. The prawns were succulent and moist while also maintaining an earthy sear, but the most memorable part of the dish was the combination of the prawns with the shredded filo. The filo was thin, crispy, and wrapped around each prawn, which created an interesting textural contrast between the two components. The prawns were meaty and juicy, while the filo added crunch, lightness, and crispiness to the dish, making it better balanced and more varied texturally. We then moved onto the Octopodi, which consisted of grilled octopus along with santorini-style fava and tomato Boukie. The octopus was cooked very well, and its characteristic char and slightly burned flavor on the exterior complemented the tender juiciness of the interior seamlessly. There was only one piece of

octopus on the dish, but it was still large enough to be split and shared among two to three people quite easily. The fava and tomato were surprisingly soft and savory, and these more delicate, mild flavors balanced the bold savoriness of the octopus well. After our two seafood dishes, we tried the Briami, which was a Greek interpretation of ratatouille. This dish was primarily composed of various vegetables, which included zucchini and potatoes. These vegetables were cooked in a bright red herb tomato sauce and were served in large proportions, making the dish quite filling even though it did not have any meat components. The vegetables were cooked slowly in the sauce, which led them to developing soft, tender flavors, while the flavor profile of the tomato sauce was intense and savory. This contrast created an interesting mix of flavors, which was also a good contrast to the two previous seafood dishes we had tried. Our most memorable dish was our final course—the Caramel Baklava Ice Cream. This dessert interpreted the traditional pairing of caramel and

vanilla ice cream in a very innovative way. Instead of drizzling caramel sauce on top of the ice cream, the ice cream was cut into two thin triangular pieces with a soft caramel baklava center. The caramel was solid but soft, having an ice cream-like texture, and was surprisingly light and delicate in flavor, given caramel’s reputation of being rich and decadent. The vanilla ice cream and caramel together created an interesting contrast of creamy and burnt tastes, but both components of the dessert were not overly saccharine or filling. Shredded filo was added to the dish as a garnish, and while the flavors of this dessert was obviously distinct from the prawns we had enjoyed earlier, the shredded filo had a similar effect of adding a crunchy, crispy texture to the overall dish, which prevented it from tasting too soupy or creamy. Seeing ice cream and caramel presented as triangles with baklava centers was a unique, delectable way to end our meal, and overall, Avli was successful in giving us an enjoyable dining experience both in terms of aesthetics and flavor.

REVIEW