ANDROS TAVERNA

ANDROS TAVERNA

BY IAN HENDERSON PHOTOS BY JERRY CAO

>> NEIGHBORHOOD LOGAN SQUARE

>> PRICES $$$

>> DISHES TO TRY EGGPLANT MOUSSAKA, LAMB CHOPS,

TINY CRETAN SAUSAGES

Many Chicago foodies are probably familiar with ‘RPM’ Chicago: a group of high end restaurants owned by the ‘Lettuce Entertain You’ company. Whether it is RPM Steak, RPM Seafood, or RPM Italian, each of these restaurants has a proven track record of delivering amazing dishes, which both utilize high quality ingredients and are rooted in traditional cooking techniques. One of the masterminds behind these restaurants is Doug Psaltis, who stands for the ‘P’ in RPM. What many people do not know about him is that before being trained in French cooking at some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the world, he found his culinary passion while he grew up on Long Island in a Greek family. Andros Taverna, which opened in February of 2021, is a project Psaltis has undertaken with his wife, Hsing Chen, which puts a modern twist on greek fusion by combining Psaltis’s childhood dishes with his training in French cooking. Located in the quiet and historical Logan Square, Andros Taverna attracts many different restaurant goers from all over the city. For a chef with such a successful track record who views this restaurant as an homage to his

childhood, it makes sense that Psaltis would meticulously think about every detail for Andros Taverna. The dramatic ceilings and beautifully hung lamps created a vibrant and welcoming space. Furthermore, the open-floor plan allows guests to look into the kitchen, which further adds to the restaurant’s invitingnature. The team at Andros Taverna relies heavily on a wood burning oven to cook massive pita breads and various cuts of meat. One of their most famous dishes is the Mediterranean octopus. Psaltis certainly lets the octopus itself produce most of the flavor by simply grilling it with lemon. The dish was amazingly tender and the octopus was incredibly fresh. Additionally, the octopus sits in lemon-fused olive oil that is ideal for dipping with some of their pita bread. The lamb chops continue the theme of high quality and simple dishes. Through careful seasoning choices, the heaviness of the lamb was nicely balanced with notes of oregano. The menu naturally leads diners to ordering several items and sharing family style. The mezze section of the menu is diverse and includes comforting favorites

like pita and more exciting items like the smoked Cretan Sausages. Notes of thyme and sage boldly come through the sausages, and I found it to be a perfect starter before I indulged in the smooth, tomatoey eggplant moussaka. This Greek classic was a bit lacking in textural complexity, but was incredibly rich and enjoyable. Overall, this restaurant is a gem that everyone should consider visiting to enjoy Psaltis’s masterful cooking. The menu is at a slightly lower price point in comparison to some of his other establishments, but the food definitely upholds the same quality of ingredients. I would have wished for a slightly larger menu that catered to different tastes and dietary preferences, but the simple grilled meats and the Greek classics are definitely the two stars of the show at Andros Taverna. Make the trek to Logan Square sooner rather than later!

REVIEW