A Student's Guide to Paris by ychun

student's V

A GUIDE TO

Paris

DAY TRIPS

THE PERFECT WEEKEND ESCAPES | 36 FOODIE HEAVEN | 20

THE BEST RAMEN IN PARIS | 22

THE ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST | 12 SECOND-HAND PARIS | 32

CONTENTS

Why study abroad? Why this program? Why Paris?

PROGRAM INFO | 4 BEFORE YOU GO | 6 PACKING GUIDE | 7 TIPS & TRICKS | 10

ULTIMATE (ANNOTATED) BUCKET LIST p. 12

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PRE-CLASS EXCURSIONS | 17 FOOD BUCKET LIST | 18

I was looking for an opportunity to actually practice my skills in French, since there’s not a lot of French people in LA! Also, the classes I took fulfilled the classes for my minor.

HIGHLIGHT: RUE MONTORGUEIL p. 20

Andrea S.

How was your host family experience?

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It was raining when I arrived in Paris, bright

My host mom is really sweet and caring! She always cooks nice French dinners for my roommate and me. I always had clean sheets and towels! Ssu Chi W.

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Baguettes. You know, I didn’t eat bread before. But in Paris...

Zirui Z.

What was your favorite thing about France?

and early at 7 am that Saturday. After nearly 15 hours of traveling--and no sleep--I was ready to take off my shoes and climb in bed. But instead, there I was, standing in the middle of a foreign continent, unable to speak even English coherently, much less French. A group of guards (soldiers? police?) walked past me, holding some sort of machine guns. “Welcome to Paris,” I thought to myself as I sat on a bench, waiting for 10 o’clock to roll around so I could find the program coordinator. Fast forward three months later and here I am, sitting back in Westwood, tortured as I reminisce the beautiful days spent wandering the streets of Paris, turning around every time I hear French, and smiling every time I order iced coffee--an unsatisfied craving for my month in France. Thinking back, it almost seems like a dream. Was I really there? Did I really live in Paris? Was I really able to see a statue of Louis XIV from my bedroom window? None of this would have been possible or the same

without the support of the UCLA International Education Office, which sponsored my opportunity through the UCLA Travel Study Scholarship. I have always dreamed of studying abroad in Europe, but was also all too aware of the expenses required to do so. Regardless, I pursued this dream when I began taking French language courses at UCLA and looking back, I am so happy I did so. Studying abroad takes a lot of energy. Even though it is often romanticized, in reality, traveling is always stressful and full of unknowns. Despite that, it is so rewarding and definitely an experience of a lifetime. I hope that this travel study guide, my scholarship project, can help anyone considering studying abroad to figure out if it’s for you, and to ease some of the struggles that I went through when going abroad. I sincerely wish that everyone can have such a cultural educational experience some time in their life and I hope that my guide can inspire you to pursue a similar experience to enrich your life.

Bon Voyage!

Leslie Yeh, 2014 French Language Program Correspondant

ABOUT THE PROGRAM The UCLA French Language Travel Study Program in Paris is a five-week long

summer program that satisfies up to 9 units of French department courses. It is ideal for UCLA students, as the credits transfer seamlessly to satisfy any language or French major and minor requirements. Furthermore, at approximately $6300 (which varies each year), it is a more affordable option than spending a semester abroad and is completely compatible with the quarter system schedule, not only allowing you to study abroad without disrupting your academic year courses, but also fitting in before Summer Session C in case you need to utilize the summer to knock out even more units. If you’re anything like me and suffer from FOMO, wanting to be on campus for both football season AND Spring Sing, you can have it all by studying abroad in a summer Travel Study program that suits your academic goals best. This program is organized by the French department at UCLA under Professor Jansma. The summer of 2014, there were about 45 students on the program, divided into three courses of study, beginner (French 3 and 14, a culture class and GE), intermediate (French 4 and 5 condensed), and advanced (French 100 and 107). Classes are no larger than 15 students. The beginner (6 students) and intermediate (15 students) level courses were taught by wonderful TAs that are the same ones who teach during the school year. Professor Jansma and professor Laurence Denié-Higney teach two separate groups of the advanced class (11 students each). All classes are held at the CIEE center, which is located near métro station Bonne Nouvelle in the 2e arrondissement on the second floor of a building on

Rue de Sentier. Classes are held four days a week for beginning and intermediate classes, every day except for Tuesday; advanced classes meet three days a week, Monday, Wednesday and Friday. All of the classes this year were held in the afternoon starting at 3:30 pm and would end at various times depending on the class. Students are housed at host families, usually with another student, though to my knowledge every student had their own room within the house. A few students were the only ones hosted by their family, though usually it was by request. The families ranged from single parents with grown up children to my family, which had two parents and three kids. Host families provide breakfast every day and five dinners a week, with variable days depending on the host family. The kitchen is also often open to the students if they would prefer to cook the other meals (and save money!) Host family homes are scattered all over Paris, some significantly closer to the CIEE center. However, every student on the program is given a loaded Navigo pass which is an unlimited métro card that you can use the entire month. The program coordinator also arranges for student ID cards that can be used to get in to various attractions around and beyond Paris. Finally, the program sponsors several excursions throughout the duration of the trip, from a welcome dinner to a goodbye cruise, museum tours and a day trip to Fontainebleau. Even outside of these optional planned excursions, the CIEE employees and the instructors are always enthusiastic to give advice and direction in terms of traveling and exploring the city outside of class.

Scholarship The UCLA Travel Study Scholarship Program is a new

program that sponsors one recipient from each Travel Study program each year with a scholarship that covers the entire tuition of the program. The recipients are only reponsible to pay for transportation and extra living expenses and travel expenses. There are two types of scholarships: Program Correspondent and Outreach Coordinator positions. Program Correspondents record their experiences in creative ways, producing media that can be used to promote awareness and understanding of the programs available. Outreach Coordinators work for IEO upon their return to engage future students to participate in UCLA travel study. All of our projects are showcased on the UCLA IEO website. For my scholarship, I applied for a Program Correspondent position. My proposed project was to create a blog, La Vie En Rose, while abroad and upon my return, repackage and compile a magazinelike travel guide that will be a valuable reference for future students. This, as you probably can tell, is my final project, which I compiled over the course of the two months since my program ended. I highly encourage everyone to apply, as it is truly a rewarding scholarship program, in more ways than simply monetarily. In helping to promote the programs, you spend a lot of time reflecting and revisiting your memories and being able to share them with others, which prolongs the study abroad experience beyond the travels.

Things TO KNOW Before You Go Some things you’ll never be prepared another set of advice to consider, in addition to the for. Like realizing how much dog poop is covering IEO counselors, your mom, and your great aunt the streets of Paris. Or just how potent some métro stations can smell.

But other things you can prepare for, and hopefully this annotated packing guide can give you an idea of what to bring to be best prepared, at least from my experience (and believe me, I was not prepared)! You know how half the stuff you always bring, you never use? And how half the stuff you always need you never bring? Well, hopefully my suggestions and advice can prevent this from happening to you (at least, not as much as it happened to me) and can give you a more general idea of what you should prepare before embarking on this adventure. You know you best, so this is just

who went to Paris in 1960.

In general, it is always a good idea to pack light, even for such an extended trip. You’ll thank me when you’re dragging your suitcase up 6 flights of stairs! Remember, elevators haven’t been fully invented yet in half of Paris! And also, 2€ coins are your best friend. Think of it as ice cream money. I have on many occassions paid using only coins. So remember: don’t use 20€ bills like $20 bills. And please don’t treat 2€ coins like quarters... From what weather to expect to how many pairs of underwear to bring to host family basics, here are some things to know before you go!

ID’S, Money, and other important things passport If you are a U.S. citizen, you will not need a visa for the duration of this program, but you will need a passport, so make sure to check early and make sure it isn’t expired! Keep your passport at your host family, maybe tucked into a pocket in your suitcase or something. If you need to bring an ID, use your drivers license! It is much easier to replace if lost. Keep copies of your IDs, credit cards and insurance cards either on you or at the apartment, wherever the actual card is not.

money

I recommend bringing a debit card as well as around 300€ cash to get yourself started off. It is ALWAYS a bad idea to travel with a lot of cash. Paris is known for pickpockets and they often target tourists who they know travel with cash. This goes for American cash too! The rates at an ATM are better than most exchange centers. Unless you have an international card, it will charge you a fee (for Chase it’s $5) for using it internationally or at a different bank’s ATM; rather than get charged $5 for buying each time, I periodically took out 200-300€ to use as cash, that way the $5 is just charged once rather than every time I spend. If possible, find ATMs that allow you to get the money in smaller bills, since sometimes if you try to buy a 5€ lunch with a 50€ bill, you’ll get attitude! Remember to contact your bank before you leave and let them know which countries you’ll be traveling to so that you are able to access your accounts once you get there!

just in case

In your wallet, keep a piece of paper with your emergency contact info, including the number of the program coordinator, the host family address, etc. Make sure others have your contact info as well.

- 3 summer outfits - 3 autumn outfits

PACK

One thing that I definitely did not come prepared for was the weather! To me, going to Paris just meant dreaming up what outfits I would wear while strolling down Champs-Elysées. Instead I was caught in shorts and a super thin cardigan while it was pouring and 50 degrees outside in Versailles. Don’t let that happen to you. Bring one thin jacket and then one thicker one, think what you would wear to an 8 am class in March. Bring a sweatshirt or a sweater, it’ll come in handy. But since summer is also sometimes summer in Paris, bring shorts, t-shirts, tank tops, etc. It did get up into the high 90s for about a week. Just come prepared for rain or shine and about as hot or cold it ever gets in LA. No part of the program requires formal or business attire, so just think of bringing some comfortable clothes (for different weather), and plan accordingly if you want to go out, etc. Don’t bring too many outfits, but probably enough to get through a week and a half without doing laundry, or bring an extra pair of jeans because they take forever to air dry indoors (and it is actually illegal, for aesthetic reasons, to hang clothes outside). Find things that are easy to mix and match. Be practical, it’s more important to experience the city than to look good stumbling around in it. Also, keep in mind that a lot of things can happen when traveling...you can lose your luggage, you can get something stolen, something can be spilled on, torn, ruined. So don’t bring anything too valuable or anything that would be absolutely devastating if something were to happen to it!

- sunglasses - umbrella The entire scope of California weather can be experienced in like two days of Paris. So come prepared! Bring a sturdy portable umbrella. Something you can comfortably carry or tuck into a purse in the mornings just in case it starts raining later in the day. But when it’s sunny, it is extremely sunny. Bring sunglasses, suntan lotion, maybe a hat. Or, like me, buy a super stereotypical Parisian hat.

annotated packing list, continued my way of saying sandals, flipflops, etc)

Paris is small. So you’ll be walking around a lot. Plus Paris has these dreadful things called cobblestone roads. And they hurt your feet. And they are hard to navigate. Heels might not be a great idea on a daily basis! Boots might be a good idea for colder days. For trekking around Versailles or any other long day trip, tennis shoes are best. My advice would be to have all the bases covered in terms of weather and context (ie flip flops if you plan on going to Nice for a weekend (or Paris Plage, LOL) and dressy shoes for going out, but don’t over do it. One pair of shoes per category will do fine. Shoes are surprisingly heavy and bulky and when it comes down to it, it will take up too much room in your suitcase if you get a different pair for each outfit!

- 10 pairs of undergarments I know that it is a little redundant, who would forget to bring underwear anyways? I guess my point is that there is no need to bring an entire suitcase of undergarments for the entire month. First of all, that’s ridiculous, you could be bringing much more useful things or traveling lighter. Second of all, that’s disgusting, what are you gonna do, bring a whole suitcase of dirty undergarments back home? And third, you will have access to laundry regularly. French families tend to have smaller washers and often no dryers, but you will be able to do laundry at your host family weekly. For me, we each had a set day of the week to do laundry. You most likely won’t ever have to go over a week without doing laundry, but just in case, it’s always good to have some extra handy. 10 is a good number. PS: About that whole no dryer thing...it is A-OK to the French to have underwear and bras hanging around the house. So prepare yourself. For me, it ended up working out well because we hung our clothes in a closet (which also meant it took approximately 8 years for clothes to dry) but I still kept my undergarments in my room instead of in the..laundry hanging closet.

- backpack - purse (large and small) - tote bag

Bring a backpack for school, even if the books/ course readers aren’t as big as ours ended up being this year (they were one-sided, single page; clearly college students did not print these--if anyone I knew printed it, it would be a fourth of the size at least!). Anyways, there may be days where you want to bring a computer, so it’s good to have a backpack. Plus, for short weekend trips, a backpack may be all you need to travel!

HOST FAMILY 101

On a day to day basis, I brought one large purse (that fit my camera(s), notebook, umbrella, phone(s), water bottle, etc) with room to spare to put in anything while shopping. And I brought one small purse for when I wanted to travel light, which just fit my phone(s), wallet, Navigo card, etc. A tote bag might be a good idea just as a sturdier bag for anything you buy and need to lug around the whole day.

-Pharmacy kit I think it is always useful to pack a personal first aid kit, with things like band-aids (for blisters, obviously!), whatever painkiller you prefer, vitamins, nail clipper (I actually had to use it as an emergency to cut off my shoe strap when I hurt my ankle and had no scissors!), ointment, bug spray, sunscreen, cold medicine, any medications you usually take, etc. This is for two reasons: first of all, when something bad does happen, sometimes it is faster just to have it on you than to ask for a first aid kit or go to a pharmacy, especially if it is at a weird time. I’m not sure whether pharmacies are 24 hours in Paris but I’m betting no (because France), so it’s best to come prepared. Second, even though you have travel insurance with the program, it might be safer to stick with things you are used to, in case you have an unknown allergy or a bad reaction to what they prescribe you if it is a minor thing. - travel

size toiletries

So I know you’ll be tempted to haul over huge bottles of shampoo and body wash since it’s a 5 week long program, but hear me out. First of all, yes, you can also buy everything there, but again if you have sensitive skin, stick with things you know are good. Second, the reason I recommend bringing travel size toiletries is that as you use them, you can throw them out. It sounds wasteful, but it is practical, because as you throw out empty bottles, your luggage lightens and you won’t have to pack a huge half empty bottle of shampoo on your way back taking up extra room and having the chance of spilling on everything else or feel wasteful by throwing out a huge half-empty bottle of shampoo! Also, they are perfect for weekend trips. I was able to just pack a set of travel size toiletries to London for two nights without having to check in my luggage! - electronics Bring: laptop, chargers, an ADAPTOR, extra memory cards, and if you’re crazy like me also bring a backup drive.Bring your phone (you’ll most likely need it when flying back, even if you can’t use it in France. If you have an unlocked phone, bring that so you can just buy a SIM card once you’re there! Bring a power strip if you need multiple plugs, that way you can just use one adaptor!

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- comfortable walking shoes - shoes that you are ok with getting wet - shoes that for when its 95 degrees (that’s

My French papa treated me with respect, a smile, and everything he could find in the supermarket! I had a tidy room, endless delicious food, and assistance from him in my French studies. He even updated WiFi for us. I booked a shuttle for departure at 3 a.m., and my French dad asked me to wake him up just to say goodbye. [ Zirui Zheng, 3rd year Applied Math/Economic major, French minor]

Your host family is hosting you for over a month. So in order to start it off as pleasant of an experience as possible, come bearing gifts. If you happen to be jet lagged like I was, you’ll be incoherent in any language that first day. But even if you’re blabbering gibberish while holding out a present with a smile, everything will be ok. Good gifts are probably UCLA related things or LA/ California things or something from wherever home is. I bought a UCLA bear and a Los Angeles souvenir. They might appreciate a picture book, mugs, etc. Probably stay away from food/drinks and clothes as allergies and sizes can complicate things. Write out a note to go with it if you can, it’ll be more coherent than anything you say that day. You can also bring something for an “end” gift, but my roommate and I opted to buy things there. We got a foie gras gift set and flowers on the last day. Another cute idea would be to bring an empty frame and frame a picture of you and your host family. And always write a goodbye note, especially if no one is home when you leave! I left a note by the door with the key when I left. In general, always be respectful. Stay quiet, especially at night, and never have guests over. French people have a different perspective on privacy, so closed doors are normal. In fact, they might find it odd if you keep your bedroom door open! Keep your room tidy and clean your room before you leave. Protect your keys with your life. My host mom told us that keys and locks are very expensive to replace so we had to be sure to keep them safe no matter what. Always follow directions you are given (even if it’s to not flush at night!) and ask whenever you are unsure about something. Take short showers, apparently Americans are notorious for being “wasteful” by taking long showers every day. Some traditional homes don’t have shower curtains or doors, so find a way to wash yourself without

soaking the rest of the bathroom! In terms of food, if you have any allergies or other preferences, be sure to inform your host family on the first day. In general, even if you have never eaten something before, try it out! Even if the smell of the cheese is repulsive, unless you’re lactose intolerant, humor them and try a little. Who knows? You might like it! And plus, when else will you be presented with a plate of cheese regularly? Late and long dinners are in the norm. My family usually started dinner some time between 8 and 9 and the dinners usually lasted around an hour, with multiple courses, from appetizer to dessert. If you’re unsure how to eat something, take hints from observing your host family and don’t be afraid to ask! They might chuckle and tease you a bit, but they’ll be happy that you are willing to learn and glad to share their culture. In general, just remember to take advantage of this as a cultural experience. Staying with a family of strangers is always going to be difficult, even without the language barrier, but know that they understand you are here to learn and that they are interested in learning about your culture as well, which is probably why they joined this program. Talk to them, pick up slang and let them correct your mistakes. It’s easy to be intimidated, as I often was, but you are there to learn and conversing with natives is the best way to do so. Stay in touch! If you get along well with your host family, they will always welcome a “bonjour” any time you visit Paris. My host sister told us that they still occassionally keep in touch with former students. If you travel elsewhere, send a postcard, or send once from LA once you’re back! Finally, if there are any problems for any reason, don’t hesitate to communicate th any issues with the CIEE coordinator and/or your instructor.

Tips

NAVIGATING THE METRO

& Tricks Everyone on this trip has at least some beginning French language experience. However, there are some things that you don’t learn in a classroom...and some things that just don’t stick until you use them in real life!

Google Maps If you think your LTE-less smartphone has been reduced to an expensive alarm clock and camera, think again. If you rely on your phone navigation as much as I do, this will be music to your ears. Even if you’re morally against GPS’s and always know a better route (like my dad), read think because A) you’re in a foreign country, and B) the streets in Paris literally don’t make sense and are never straight. Merci, Haussman.

Here’s the real vocabulary you need: - SUR PLACE vs A EMPORTER { for here or to go } - EST-CE QU’IL Y A DU WIFI? { to ask for weefee } - JE VOUDRAIS/JE PRENDS { I would like/I’ll have } - LE MENU = the menu AND the daily special, which is usually cheaper >> ordering in French gives a higher chance of less grumpy waiters! (I think)

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You will save so much money if you specifically ask for “un carafe d’eau” instead of just water! Seriously.

Andrea Salamat 4th year Anthropology major, French minor

To ask for water without being charged for bottled water... the magic word is “carafe”

Paris has one the world’s oldest métro systems. Over the past century, it has developed a complex and dense network throughout the city in 14 intersecting web of lignes. The different lines also have wide discrepencies. Some have twisty door knobs to open them. Others open automatically. Only one line, line 5, has air conditioning. They all regularly break down and are under construction. Once you get there, you will begin to have an understanding of which lines to take that aren’t under construction at the moment (for example, line 7 was closed at the closest métro station to me for the entire month of July). And you’ll figure out which stations to avoid transfers (for example, Châtelet was a pain to bustle through, taking at least 15 minutes to walk from one ligne to another, due to intensive construction. A good app to download is the Paris Métro app, where you can input a starting and final destination and select to prioritize with fastest time or fewest transfers and it will give you an estimated travel time. It does not require internet to operate. Of course, this also means that it is not a reliable source because it does not update for break downs and closures.

SNAP AWAY! My dear social media addicts, there is hope yet! You won’t have to give up on crafting the funniest cover stories while abroad sans wifi. Even though you will not be able to snap “live” without internet, you can still prep snaps to all send at once! Just take a picture, write whatever, draw a mustache, the usual; and then select who you want to send it to and hit send. It will say that it didn’t send, but now you can queue snaps to send once you do have internet. Just tap each one with an exclamation mark on the side! You’re welcome.

Anyways, my point is, GOOGLE OFFLINE MAPS. To create an offline map, log in to your Google account on the Google Maps application. Click on the location arrow and the bottom so it can orient to where you are. Alternatively, simply type in Paris. Then, on the top search bar area, click on the person icon in the right corner. Scroll down until you see “Offline Maps” and click to save the map. You can pan and adjust what you want to save. Since Paris is so tiny, you can zoom out until you see the entire city and then hit save. You will then be prompted to name it.

LIFE WITHOUT WIFI (WEE-FEE) IS HARD. When you are desperate, lost, out of contact, or just overcome with the need to tweet, you can reliably find free wifi at the various branches of the U.S. Embassy. Also known as McDonalds and Starbucks. Other places with wifi include Prêt A Manger, Exki, and Pomme de Pain. And Centre Pompidou. Best museum ever, right?!

Once saved, all you have to do to access it is go back to the person icon and scoll down to the “Offline Maps” portion. You should be able to see any offline maps you have created show up. Once you click on it, you can see where you are based on the blue dot on the map. Even through you cannot search for directions without internet, as long as you have turned wifi on, even if you aren’t connected, the blue dot will show you where you are (and you can figure out from there whether you’re going the right way). Keep in mind that you will have to update the map occassionally and when prompted to do so, you should try to, because otherwise, it may not open without internet.

THE ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST

So you’re going to Paris for a month. Over a month. There is so much to do you don’t know where to start. You want to hit up all of the major spots... because how embarrassing would it be to get back and have someone asked you how the Mona Lisa was in real life..and you didn’t. visit. the Louvre. But at the same time, you also want to dive so much deeper than the main attractions. Being there for so long, you want to know the ins and outs of the City of Light, to be more than a tourist, to live there, not just visit. That’s how I felt when I went. As my first time in Europe, I wanted to see everything and was so overwhelmed by all the tourist spots people told me about that I didn’t know where to start and just ended up taking it as it came. There were a few things that I knew I absolutely had to go to (Versailles, Pompidou) but there were also some things that I found out about once I got there and wanted to check out (Marché de la Bastille) and some places I tagged along with and ended up absolutely loving (Père Lachaise). It ended up working out alright, but by the last week, when I finally figured out a list of things I wanted to check out, it was just too late, too stressful and too impractical to get through all of them. But no fear, I’m here to help you get started on a list. No two people have the same prioritized list, so do some research, edit, cut, amend and reorganize to come with a game plan. Always be open to changes and to checking out new things but at least you’ll have a solid starting point, where on an empty day you can whip out your bucket list and find something to do! And always, before you set out to do whatever it is you planned, do some research. Many museums are closed on Tuesdays, a lot of things open late or close early. Be sure to check out the horaires on the websites and figure out the métro info before you set out, especially if you don’t have internet access on the fly.

THE A-LIST

PERFECT SCHOOL DAY VISIT

EIFFEL TOWER ARC DE TRIOMPHE LOUVRE NOTRE DAME MUSEE D’ORSAY PLACE DE LA CONCORDE CHAMPS ELYSEES PONT ALEXANDRE III GALERIES LAFAYETTE JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG VERSAILLES

SACRE COEUR & MONTMARTRE CENTRE POMPIDOU 24 OPERA MARAIS MUSEE RODIN PETIT PALAIS & GRAND PALAIS MUSEE L’ORANGERIE INVALIDES PANTHEON

MADELEINE REPUBLIQUE BASTILLE QUARTIER LATIN SAINT-CHAPPELLE LES HALLES & RUE DE RIVOLI 23 HOTEL DE VILLE MUSEE CARNAVALET SAINT-EUSTACHE

THE MODERN HIPSTER

MARCHE AUX PUCES 34 31 PERE LACHAISE MARCHE DE LA BASTILLE 28 MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS PALAIS ROYAL GALERIES COUVERTES PALAIS DU TOKYO 30 ILE SAINT LOUIS BON MARCHE 36 GIVERNY FONTAINEBLEAU

[

the food bucket list pg. 18

Highlights 20

LA TOUR EIFFEL

Arrondissement: 7 Métro: you can go to Trocadero (line 6) for a good view across the river, to go straight there, probably fastest to take RER C to Champs de Mars - Tour Eiffel. Cost: $$/free to admire from afar Why: obligatory symbol of Paris and France. Just don’t act too touristy! Tips: Avoid the people trying to sell you things, just say no and act like you’re headed somewhere. Mornings tend to be least crowded, especially around Trocadero. You’re allowed to be inside until 11 pm. You can go to the second level, or the top, both which require tickets, or admire from afar for free! Good views include from Pont Alexandre III, Trocadero (right across!), Montparnasse, Pompidou, and Arc du Triomphe; also a great place to picnic; be sure to find someplace where you can see it the night of July 14th for fireworks!

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Arrondissement: 8 Métro: Charles de Gaulle - Etoile (lines 1,2,6, RER A) Cost: FREE for students on this program Why: The view. The fact that it is super famous and historical and another symbol of France is cool too but seriously just the view. Perfect panoramic view of the Eiffel Tower, La Défense, Champs Elysées, and even Montmartre in the distance. Tips: wear comfy shoes, don’t be afraid to wedge your way to the edge, just don’t be too pushy or violent, we’re all tourists up there! Free admission with student ID card. No elevator. A lot of stairs. If you want to go during sunset, get there early (probably around 8) in order to take into account lines and the time it takes to climb up the spiral staircases. Also, the first glittering happens at 10 pm and the Arc closes at 10:30 so be sure to get there for that! They stop letting people in around 9:45.

MUSEE DU LOUVRE

Arrondissement: 1 Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre (line 1 and 7) Cost: FREE for students on this program Why: It’s the most famous and one of the biggest art museums in the world. And for a selfie with Mona Lisa. Tips: Grab a map and break it up! Every room is labeled, somewhere near the door. If you want to see the Mona Lisa, follow the crowd to the Denon wing. If you want a more calm experience, try Sully and Richelieu, it’s almost like a private museum. The program will have a sponsored visit with a guided tour that takes you through the main attractions, but you can always return to see the rest. If you’re hungry, go under the pyramid and keep on following Sortie signs until you see a food court with cheaper options. The line goes super fast to get into the pyramid. Once you get in, walk straight to the entrance and show your card, no need to stand in line at a ticketing booth!

NOTRE DAME

Arrondissement: 4 Métro: Cité (line 4) or Saint-Michel, Notre Dame, RER C Cost: FREE for everyone! Why: Because it costs a whopping and disgusting £15 to visit Westminster Abbey. And this is free. Tips: Even if you are so far you can get a full photo of the church without taking the photo at an angle, you will be in within 10 minutes, because it is literally a line to walk in, since there are no tickets necessary. In order to attend mass, you just need to get there early and sit down, all of the times are posted online. During normal services, other visitors are still allowed to go inside and walk around as long as they don’t disturb the service. Photos are allowed. If you have more time, go visit the towers and hang out with the gargoyles and a panoramic view of the city. However, it is around a 45 minute wait, according to the website. You can also visit the archaeological crypts under the Parvis.

MUSEE D’ORSAY

7e arrondissement Metro: RER C Musée d’Orsay, Solférino (ligne 7) Cost: FREE for program students Why: Impressive impressionist paintings. And the best work of art--the view out the clock windows upstairs! Tips: Our group tour focused a lot on history of only a few pieces of art, so it is worth a second visit! No photos allowed, except out the clock windows!

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

1er/8e arrondissement Metro: Concorde (ligne 1, 8, 12) Cost: FREE Why: It’s pretty. And close to everything, Madeleine, Tuileries, Champs Elysées, etc Tips: There’s a Ladurée nearby close to Madeleine. L’Orangerie is also nearby. You can get a good view of Champs Elysées and the Arc from here.

CHAMPS-ELYSEES

8e arrondissement Metro: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau (1, 13) FDR (1, 9), Georges V (1) Cost: FREE Why: It’s open after 5 pm. Which is a big deal in Paris. Tips: Down for a long walk? Go from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe. Or the other way around. It’s a straight line. There’s also a lot of night life and shopping. And big events: like the Bastille Day parade and finale of the Tour de France.

PONT ALEXANDRE III

7e/8e arrondissement Metro: Invalides (ligne 8, 13, RER C) Champs-Elysées Clemenceau (1, 13) on opposite sides Cost: FREE Why: It’s the most beautiful thing in the world (in my opinion). You can sing “Someone Like You,” and there’s a perfect view of the Eiffel Tower Tips: Just go. It’s worth it.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

9e arrondissement Metro: Chausée d’Antin (ligne 7 et 9) Cost: FREE to shop, but also the opposite of free with designer stores galore Why: It’s pretty. So even though you can’t afford anything inside, you should still walk in just to see the beautiful cieling Tips: Apparently somewhere upstairs there is a place where you can get a custom bottle for a souvenir and fill it up with the liquor of your choice from a wide selection available. Also, if you do end up spending money, make sure to figure out how you can reclaim the taxes at a counter inside.

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG 6e arrondissement Metro: RER B Luxembourg Cost: FREE Why: It is a beautiful place to picnic, they often have live music and other activities. There is plenty of shady seating and it is less touristy than the Tuileries, there’s a good mix of both locals and tourists. Tips: Walk around the area and buy food somewhere outside to bring to enjoy in the garden. Check out the different events that change seasonally to take advantage of free entertainment. The Musée du Luxembourg occupies the eastern wing of the Château and hosts art exhibitions throughout the year. The Panthéon is a short walk right down the street that is also worth a visit.

OPÉRA MONTMARTRE 18e arrondissement métro: Abbesses why: panoramic view, beautiful church, souvenir shopping

PETIT & GRAND PALAIS 8e arrondissement métro: Champs-Elysée Clemenceau why: (petit) free permanent collection, cute garden; (grand) beautiful glass dome roof

5e arrondissement métro: Cardinal Lemoine why: beautiful architecture, and the lengends buried beneath

p. 38

L’ORANGERIE 1er arrondissement métro: Concorde/Tuileries why: Monet, plus it’s a small museum that is convenient to go to

3e/4e arrondissement métro: Saint Paul why: delicious Jewish food and low key historical monuments

INVALIDES

7e arrondissement métro: Invalides why: to say hi to Napoleon

PERFECT HALF DAY EXCURSIONS

PANTHÉON

VERSAILLES

9e arrondissement métro: Opéra why: obnoxiously pretty from outside without buying ticket for a show

MARAIS

HÔTEL DE VILLE 4e arrondissement métro: Hôtel de Ville why: it’s pretty, they have concerts & screenings there, and there’s a lot of thrift stores nearby

MADELEINE

8e arrondissement métro: Madeleine why: pretty church, plenty of shopping nearby

MUSÉE CARNAVALET 4e arrondissement métro: Saint Paul why: low key museum, smells like the old mansion, lets you walk through the history of Paris

QUARTIER LATIN 6e arrondissement métro: Saint Michel why: student area=cheap food, cheap bars, bookstores, etc

SAINT-EUSTACHE 1er arrondissement métro: Les Halles why: underrated church that is historical, beautiful, and not crowded like Notre Dame

Ladurée

Marché de la Bastille

sweet

macaron croissant madeleine eclair fruit tart chocolate tart pain au chocolat espresso crêpe chocolate mousse whipped cream pudding, any kind at any franprix apricots and nectarines jam (and bread) yogurt B ice cream C gelato caramels & caramel flavored things apple tarte A

food BUCKET THE

Berthillon

LIST

baguette D galette croque monsieur/madame mustard steak frites fondue omelette escargot foie gras E falafel kebobs, gyros smoked salmon pizza* sandwich quiche steak tartare fries** cheese

Amorino

What to remember to eat & where to find it (if it makes a difference)

L’As du Fallafel

savory wine orangina schweppes * I know, it sounds bizarre to have smoked salmon on cheese pizza, but trust me, trust the French, and trust Pizza Hut it is oddly amazing ** I know french fries aren’t French. I don’t care. We are close enough to Belgium, they are served with everything, and they taste good.

Highlights

Montorgueil a food lover’s haven

Extending between Saint-Eustache and

Métro station Sentier, split by Rue Etienne Marcel into the first and second arrondissements is a mini neighborhood filled with food in every way shape and form. The best part is that it is located only a 5 minute walk away from the CIEE center. Rue Montorgueil hosts an open market regularly as well as featuring permanent stores that sell fresh meat, fish, cheese and produce daily. From specialty shops to cafés, gelato bars to sushi bars, there really is a little of everything.

My host sister took us on a walk around the neighborhood on our first day. Even though I was having trouble staying awake even in the cold rain, I remember being charmed by this street, and making a mental note to return. Alas, my lack of consciousness gave no mercy when it came to remembering directions. But as fate would have it, two days later, I randomly stumbled back upon it while trying to get to

Les Halles. Ever since that day, and ever since I realized that it is but a 5 minute walk from my host family apartment, I basically spent the duration of my program on that street. Almost every day, I would eat there with friends, buy pastries and sandwiches à emporter, study for finals and even go grocery shopping. It is most certainly my favorite street in Paris, and the place I miss most. Highlights include city’s oldest patisserie, Stohrers, which opened in 1730 and has deliciously buttery and flakey croissants that I dream about. There are also several greek and middle eastern quick serve hole-in-walls that has affordable options. Sandwiches at Maison Collet are dreamy. Overall, the street feels intimate and genuine, even with the increasing popularity among tourists. Rue Montorgueil is a place to reliably find affordable and delicious dining options in the middle of Paris.

Highlights

Rue de rivoli Neighboring shopping havens

Rue de Rivoli and Les Halles are like the normal people shopping malls compared to ChampsElysées. Sort of like the Santa Monica Promenade to UCLA, if I continue on my LA analogy. Rue de Rivoli has historically been a shopping street with department stores like the Samaritaine and a mix of affordable designer stores (like Zara), and international chain stores (like Forever 21 and H&M). Even though many of the brand names sound familiar, it is worth checking them out because they often carry very different styles than their American counterparts.

Palais Royal Paris is full of surprises.

Palais Royal exemplifies French values in valuing the traditional in the preservation of the architecture and high end boutiques, while incorporating the modern, with the striped columns dotting the courtyard, and being open to the public, with an open garden in the middle. Right past the royal palace is the Paris equivalent of Sawtelle. Not quite extensive enough to be Little Tokyo, but it was an interesting find in the middle of Paris. The streets are lined with ramen stores, some of which have lines extending out of them. Which is a big deal for a sit-down eatery, because I’ve never seen Parisians wait in line for food (excluding à emporter). Walking around Rue des Petits Champs, you will soon find yourself seeing signs in Japanese. The area also hosts other Asian cuisines including a few pho places, some

Rue Saint-Anne

Korean restaurants and a Korean market, a couple Chinese restaurants and a couple Taiwanese restaurants (read: boba in Paris, but it’ll set you back 5€). Even though I was determined to enjoy French food while I was there, I found myself returning to this neighborhood to diversify my palatte and to enjoy the familiar flavors that I’m so used to having back in Los Angeles. Many of my fellow travel study students also enjoyed the neighborhood, as it was only about a 10 minute walk from the CIEE center. Luckily for me, it was right down the street from where I lived, and from my bedroom to the nearest ramen store, it would only take about 5 minutes. Leave it up to a bunch of UCLA students to find a place like this in the middle of Paris!

Les Halles is historically a marketplace. Paintings from centuries ago depict it as a giant open market full of bargaining traders. Today, it is home to a large underground mall, Forum des Halles connected to the Les Halles metro station. It has similar stores to Rue de Rivoli, but is all indoors, perfect for a rainy day. However, it does close early and is not open on Sundays. The month of July is the biggest sale of the year. Plastered in every window and on every building is the “SOLDES” in brilliant big bold letters. With each consecutive week, the sales increase, with bigger markdowns at every store from designer brands at Galeries Lafayette to stores like Bershka, a European equivalent to Forever 21. It is fun to take part in this exciting shopping event, but don’t get too excited! Always keep in mind the exchange rate and the fact that America has great sales as well. The L’Occitaine soldes in Paris were less than seasonal sales at my local mall!

LES HALLES

Highlights

I love this museum.

Even back when I was taking AP Art History in 10th grade and learning about this place I wanted to visit. I didn’t even know it was a museum for a while--I thought it was a shopping center.

CENTRE POMPIDOU

It is way better than a shopping center. It is kind of like a cultural center, including bookstores, a large library, the national modern art museum (with a collection second only to MOMA) and exhibition space in addition to dining space and my absolute favorite view of Paris. The building itself stands out, especially in Paris. The ultra modern and industrial look was inspired by a building turned inside out, or stripped bare, where everything that supports it, and all the pipes, rods, etc; are exposed. There is also an iconic set of escalators, let’s call them Paris’ version of the Universal Studios “Starway.” The higher up you go, the more amazing the view gets, until you get a complete panoramic view of Paris. Centre Pompidou opens at 11 am, and well before then, a line starts to form outside the front entrance. Don’t let that discourage you though, as soon as the clock hits 11, the doors open and everyone is in within a few minutes. In the morning, there will also be vendors and street artists setting up nearby. During the afternoons, the area is buzzing with activity with many street vendors and eclectic performers, from a guy that uses a rope to make giant bubbles to perspective chalk art. The main collection, which occupies the 4th and 5th floor, is free for students. Just show your ID to get a ticket and head up the escalators. The lower level is dedicated to works created in more recent years, often featuring extremely abstract and interactive media while the upper level is earlier modern art, featuring the famous works of Calder, Picasso, Manet and more. At the time of my visit, they had a special part dedicated to Man Ray. Two of my favorite things about Centre Pompidou are actually not a part of the museum. The first is an outdoor area on the 2nd floor of the museum where a fountain overlooks a view to the south (p. 3), including a beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower. The other one is the Stravinsky fountain, pictured above, which has modern and street art juxtaposed with gothic architecture in the background. This artsy part of town also has many busy cafés and street artists that give a refreshing vibe to the historic town.

Highlights

Montmartre Made famous by 2001 film Amelie,

Montmartre is like a quaint traditionally artist village that overlooks a brilliant city. The neighborhood is in the 18e arrondissement, right above Pigalle, the red light district and home of the Moulin Rouge. Montmartre was one of my favorite areas because of the bustling small town character. The area is filled with narrow stairways and street art-covered walls. The boutiques and restaurant cafés are considerably cheaper than those you would find in central Paris, and despite the hordes tourists, it still manages to maintain little quirks that make it worth several returns at any time of the day or evening. To get there, take métro line 12 to Abbesses. Take. The. Giant. Elevator. Avoid the stairs, they go on forever as this is the deepest métro station. Even if there are a ton of people waiting for the elevator, just wait with them. The elevator is pretty much quite possibly probably bigger than a typical UCLA dorm, so a large group of people will fit! Once you exit (there is only one sortie at this station, which also happens to feature an impressive original art nouveau canopy), you’ll see the brick façade of the Church of SaintJean-de-Montmartre. Turn left and keep on walking until you see the funiculaire. What is a funiculaire? Think of it like a cable car/ski lift. It basically is a vehicle in which you can ride up to the top of Montmartre, at the foot of the Sacre Coeur. Navigo passes do work, so beep on through to skip the I-don’t-even-know-how-many flights of stairs (think Janss Steps times five) that is the alternative route! At the base of the funiculaire, there will be a bunch of people trying to sell you cheap things and it will smell a bit like marijuana (as opposed to cigarettes like the rest of the city). Don’t let anyone try to put a bracelet on you, that is a pickpocketing trick!

Once you get to the top, turn right and see the crowds of people admiring a panoramic view of the city. It’s fun to stand there and try and pick out where famous monuments are. Hint, the church that is in the center(ish) of the photo above is not the Notre Dame! You can check your work on the (kind of faded) guide nearby. Also, remember to bring a camera, because this is a cover photo waiting to happen! If it is during the evening, there will be people trying to sell you beer and water to enjoy on the steps to the Sacre Coeur (is it just me that thinks that’s a little ironic?) in addition to the usual souvenirs. The Sacre Coeur is free to enter, though they may ask for donations by the door. No photos were allowed inside, unfortunately, but the inside is the most beautiful church I’ve ever seen. Though it is relatively new, built in the late 19th century, and very different from the more common gothic architecture, it is by far my favorite religious building. If you walk up the stairs to the church and turn left and continue, you’ll reach the adorable village. Shops closest to the church tend to be souvenir shops, which honestly are worth checking out, simply because they tend to be cheaper than other places. Then, if you make another left, you’ll reach a courtyard, Place du Tertre, which full of restaurants. This is a great place to enjoy dinner because the prices are very fair, with “menus” coming out to around 15€ for dinners.

Artists line up to sketch portraits by the courtyard In the courtyard there will be people trying to get you to have your portrait drawn. The portraits are created impressively quickly and I don’t think they are very expensive, though it is weird that all the tourists walking around and dining can watch you being sketched... If you continue further north, the neighborhood becomes even cuter and more village-like. The houses are all full of character and very artistic. Keep in mind this is where Van Gogh and Picasso called home once upon a time. There are many smaller museums scattered around the area as well as galleries, a small vineyard, a historic cabaret (Cabaret du Lapin Agile), and mini green spaces. Overall, Montmartre is an affordable neighborhood to eat and shop and get away from the bustle of the city without leaving the city!

Highlights

One of the best meals a meal that I almost skipped.

I had in Paris was

You see, I had everything planned out. I ate a small breakfast at home before heading out to the open market at Bastille. We had been planning to save our appetite for falafel after visiting Musée Carnavalet after the market...but the aromas of the market got the best of us and before we knew it we were standing in line at a yellow and white striped crêpe and galette stand. Marché de la Bastille is one of the biggest and most popular open markets in Paris. It is open Thursdays and Sundays from 7 am to around 1 pm and features everything from rotisserie chicken to fresh fruits and vegetables to cheap clothing to handmade leather bound notebooks. It’s easy to find affordable gifts here, whether it be jewelry, scarves, purses, soaps or the typical Eiffel Tower mini statue, the stands here are as diverse as the shoppers.

MARCHÉ DE LA BASTILLE

But of course, being an open market, it’s all about the specialty stands, the fish and seafood stands, the fruit stands, the vegetable stands, the fresh bread and roasting meat, the fresh cheese laid out on a table, the plates of marinated olives and much more. It’s like a farmer’s market, but much bigger and more diverse.

that sells crêpes and galettes. Walking away from the Bastille, it was on the right side, with yellow and white stripes, and will probably have a line extending from it. There are two women running it, each stationed at a crêpe griddle and churning out bundles of deliciousness. I opted for the savory saucisse et fromage galette and was mesmerized as I watched her pour out what seemed to be a whole wheat batter and spread it into a perfect circle. It ended up being like a French style hotdog and was absolutely unexpectedly delicious to devour while wandering the stands. Who said the French don’t eat and walk? (Well, they might not, but I sure did!) Marché de la Bastille ended up being one of my favorite places in Paris. I bought a bunch of affordable gifts there for my friends--from scarves to jewelry to boxed soap--while enjoying the fresh food along the shady area. This is definitely worth stopping by on a Thursday before class.

This would be a great place to pick up some food for a picnic…and then wander over to the Promenade Plantée behind the L’Opéra Bastille. And if you’re hungry, stop by the crêpe and galette stand about half way through the market

Highlights

{

Père Lachaise

I le Saint-Louis

A cemetery isn’t most people’s idea of a tourist attraction, but Père Lachaise isn’t most people’s idea of a cemetery.

One of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Paris, Île Saint-Louis is probably best described as the island that doesn’t have the Notre Dame. That being said, it is adjacent to Cité and connected to the main land by four bridges.

Ile Saint-Louis is tiny and filled with shops and cafés that add to the quaint character of the place. As soon as you cross the any of the bridges (I would usually cross at the one near Hôtel de Ville) to the island, you’ll know you’re on the island of Berthillon. Aka the best ice cream in France, according to my host family, and anyone else I’ve talked to. Or maybe the world, who knows? By the end of our trip we were gushing to other tourists about it! They have dozens of flavors and an entire menu built around the ice cream selection. But to enjoy Berthillon without breaking the bank, just go to one of the à emporter windows along the street and buy a scoop. I highly recommend the salted caramel: anything salted caramel in France is just to die for!

Oscar Wilde Jacques Louis David

While the garden-cemetery is a peaceful place to stroll through in general, it is a good idea to keep a copy of the map on you as you make your way through if you are interested in visiting certain graves. While Chopin some areas are very organized, others are a little more cluttered and hard to navigate. I think that the area is worth going independently, but they do also have tours that take you to the main points. I never knew a cemetery could be so beautiful. Even with the many visitors, it was very peaceful and quiet. Some people were even sitting on the grass and reading. My favorite thing about Père Lachaise is all of the large trees diffusing the sunlight along the paths. While in the cemetery, it didn’t feel like summer, it felt more like mid-autumn which was really cool, especially coming from LA, where there really isn’t much of an autumn. My least favorite thing about it was the cobblestone. Though some parts were better maintained, other parts wore me out 10 times as fast while hiking through the cemetery. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting!

Berthillon is served almost exclusively on this island. The iconic gothic typography logo will be adorning the signs of every café. And if you walk further down on the street, you’ll see the original Berthillon, with a taunting gold logo. It’s impossible to get lost because there is only one street that runs down the length of the island–the rest of it is mostly residential. The neighborhood is extremely well preserved in terms of historical buildings and planning. Though there might not be much there, it is a nice and quiet stroll on any day, perfect for late lunch, ice cream and shopping on a weekday afternoon.

Père Lachaise is probably the most well known and visited cemetery in the world, as legends including Oscar Wilde, Frédéric Chopin and UCLA alum, Jim Morrison. Located in the 20e arrondissement, it was just a short métro away, at the Père Lachaise station on lignes 2 et 3. Right outside the métro station, there is a small marché aux puces, and nearby is a side entrance into the garden cemetery.

Jim Morrison

The arguably most popular stop is Oscar Wilde’s unusual tomb. On the side of it, there is a patch of kisses where visitors left lipstick kiss prints. Now, with the glass barrier, the tradition has been ended, but the kiss prints still linger on the stone. The cemetary is open until 5 pm, when the workers ring bells and make rounds through the cemetery, notifying visitors that it is closing time.

{ flea markets } MARCHE AUX PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN { used book stores } GIBERT JEUNE { thrift stores } KILOSHOP

Second-hand Paris

In America, we are all about that thrifting life nowadays, where old is cool and you gain hipster points by wearing vintage clothing and finding antiques by scrummaging flea markets and garage sales. It’s the new mainstream. It’s the new cool.

But in France, it just is what it is. It’s not this revival trend, everyone simply appreciates the old and the vintage. In some cases, it is practical, like recycling, to reuse things and sell things secondhand for cheap. It is an affordable way to live. On another hand, French people seem to inherently value traditional culture and style. Either way, it isn’t so much a “sub-culture” but culture itself. From high-end consignment stores to street vendors with antique knick-knacks, there is a spectrum of ways you can experience second-hand Paris, even on a student budget!

Believe it or not,

used books aren’t just found in your neighborhood library and on Amazon. In a country where people actually read books, aren’t glued to smart phones, and probably look down upon Kindles, used books are found everywhere. It is very much a part of the culture to regularly browse used bookstores and sell books back in a sustainable system that preserves a traditional consumption of media without being too much of a burden on the environment or your wallet!

MARCHÉ AUX PUCES DE SAINT-OUEN The mother of all flea markets

is located all the way up at the end of métro ligne 4, at Porte de Clignancourt, which is located right about at the northern edge of Paris in the 18th arrondissement. A short walk past the Paris border into Saint-Ouen is le marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen. Take note: you’ll need to walk past a smaller swap meet to get to the main market, on Rue de Rosiers. At first, there are a bunch of vendors selling cheap clothes, African artifacts and random watches and phone cases à la night market, but walk past that you will begin to see more antique stands, selling everything from century-old postcards to vintage chandeliers. Being one of the biggest flea markets in the world, antique lovers flock here religiously. The sheer amount of stuff here is aweinspiring. They even have stations to set up shipping so it can go straight home. Shopping galore.However, there is definitely something for every budget, from leather satchels at 20€ to thousand euro furniture to 2€ records, the stands offer just about everything, old and new, divided into smaller marchés that kind of blend into each other, labeled by painted archways and signs. The flea market is divided into several smaller galleries, each with a slightly different personality, and even though the vendors seemed to be selling similar things all throughout the flea market, the atmosphere of each area still felt distinct . At the beginning it was loud and raucous, there were a lot of immigrants and tourists walking around. But as soon as we got past that into the antiques area, it got more quiet and peaceful. The shop owners were often sitting and reading rather than standing in the street and shouting at shoppers. Most of the shoppers in this area were either locals or antique collectors, and the shop owners would often mingle together. In some of the more popular antique marchés, there were more consumers and more active interaction

between the sellers and buyers. As the morning went on, it did get more crowded, but for the most part the antiques areas were not too bad, whereas the beginning part which involved some pushing and shoving. It’s easy to start circling around the same areas over and over again without even realizing it is the same area, but it was unexpectedly easy to navigate without paying attention to where we were going. Most of the marchés are on Rue de Rosier and it is just a matter of walking in the right general direction to get back towards the entrance area. For the most part, a map may not be necessary, since most of the experience comes from wandering. Since I was only getting little things, I wasn’t too worried about things being overpriced for what they’re worth. Of course, if you were to buy antique furniture and such, it would be wise to practice bargaining skills. On our way out, we stumbled upon Marché Dauphine that looked pretty busy and stepped inside to find a futuro house from 1968. Marché Dauphine was probably the most diverse place we went to. They seemed to have everything, from tucked away restaurants and cafés to antiques, to a second floor that seemed to be dedicated to old media: old maps, magazines, posters, books, newspapers, etc. Even if you aren’t very interested in flea markets and antiques, the marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen are worth a visit due to the historical and cultural significance. And believe me, it is hard to walk out without buying something...even if it is just a vintage poster!

One of the most organized and extensive collections of used books is at Gibert Jeune, the yellow-signed book store with genre-specific stores scattered around the Latin Quarter as well as a smaller branch near Saint-Denis, which is a short walk from the CIEE center. There, you can find all sorts of books, old and new, as well as a small collection of English books as well. Often they have outside the super cheap deals, that are usually 3€ or less. One good way of practicing French is by reading either children’s beginning novels or by reading young adult novels that you’ve read before in English, such as the Harry Potter series. Regardless, I highly recommend checking out one of these bookstores, even just to browse. Along the Seine near Notre Dame are these green stalls

French thirft stores remind me of grocery stores. Allow me to explain: Kilo Shop. It

is basically a thrift store that operates on a weight price system. Items are tagged with different colors representing different rates, such as 20 euro per kilo or 30 euro per kilo. There are scales scattered throughout the store to weigh things to gauge prices. There are also some things that are fixed prices. To me, it got kind of annoying hacing to weight everything before I could figure out the prices, but for regulars, it probably gets pretty easy to estimate prices based on clothing type. Some things, such as scarves, had price tags. For the most part, it is an interesting way of structuring a store and I appreciated the novelty, but

called bouquinistes, which pop up usually in the afternoons to sell a collection of vintage media as well as souvenirs. I loved browsing through old magazines and newspapers there. These historical installations have been around for centuries and still thrive along the banks of the river today. prefer other thrift stores that use a normal pricing system. There are dozens of thrift stores scattered around the Marais, plenty around the Hôtel de Ville area as well as in the streets by Pompidou and near Saint Paul. As for cheap finds, it’s a hit or miss, but hey, it’s about the experience, right? Also, for designer goods, there are consignment stores all around the city. Some are larger than others, so if you are interested you should do your research before heading out. There are several guides in English that can be found online. Keep in mind that a “steal” for vintage designer goods is probably still half our tuition for a quarter so come prepared!

Day Trips

Giverny Home of Monet,

Giverny is a small village that would be pretty serene and quiet if it weren’t for the hundreds of visitors that come through each day on Impressionist pilgrimages to the home of the father of Impressionism. In order to get to Giverny, you have to buy tickets to Vernon from Gare Saint-Lazare, and then from there take a bus, taxi, or bike to Giverny. The tickets cost around 27€ round trip and the train ride is about 45 minutes long.

From Vernon, there are a few choices for getting to Giverny, which is about 3.5 miles away. The fastest way is probably to take a taxi. A more affordable option is to take the bus. If you walk out of the front door of the station and continue to walk straight on the right side of the street, there will probably be a line for the bus. Bus tickets cost 4 euro each way. The last way, which we almost considered, is renting bikes at one of the cafés nearby. When I went, we ended up taking the bus, which drops off at a lot near a path that takes you right to the heart of Giverny. We

then followed the signs along the dirt path (and the line of tourists) to Monet’s maison and jardins. Student tickets into Monet’s house and gardens were 5€. Walking into the garden was like walking into a different world. The tourists, though plenty, were relatively quiet. The air was thick in the post-rain air, and the sky was full of clouds, but the sun shone through and lay its golden rays upon every leaf and petal. Everything smelled fresh and it was as if you could feel the abundance of life as you walked through the rows of plants and heard the buzz of busy bees making their rounds. If it weren’t for all of the fancy DSLRs and iPhones clicking away, it would be like stepping back in time. Take the stairs in the far corner of the garden to get to the willow tree-grazed water lily ponds. It’s like walking into a painting.

Though the garden may be the main attraction, and the source of Monet’s inspiration, a tour of his house gives some insight into his life. Many of the rooms were distinctively brightly colored–a blue sitting room, a yellow dining room. While a lot of the furniture is modest, the house is big and full of windows overlooking the garden and filled with art. My favorite room was probably the kitchen, where blue and white tiles complemented the copper pans lining the walls. If you plan on spending a whole day in the town, be sure to check out the cafés and gift shops in the village as well as the Impressionist museum, which if free for students to visit. For me, Giverny was an unexpected highlight of my trip. I highly recommend a weekend visit as an alternative to traveling farther, because you can easily make it there and back in a day.

Day Trips

VERSAILLES

A southwest suburb of Paris, Versailles is probably the

most popular day trip for tourists to Paris. I remember dreaming about visiting the château and strolling through the gardens...and when I finally made it there, it was just as magical, though much more crowded, than my dreams. We decided to organize an informal get-together and gather a large group to all go at once. Versailles is very easy to get to. Just take the RER C using your Navigo pass and get off at Versailles. Depending on which station you get on at, the trip is usually pretty quick. From Invalides, it is about half an hour. From the train station, you can essentially just follow the crowd towards the palace. (Or, just walk across the street towards Starbucks, and continue on the road down that side until you see the parking lot which you can cut through to get to the gate.)

At peak season, the entire courtyard of the palace was filled with people.Although the line definitely took as long as it looked like it would take (unlike Louvre which surprisingly breezes by), we

were able to take turns standing in line while groups of us went to go buy tickets for the garden (7€ for student tickets), as admission to the château itself was free with our student IDs. Make sure to check the website before you go, depending on the season and day of the week, prices vary (as in sometimes it is free!). The visit of the palace is pretty well organized. Once you enter, you go through rooms that chronicle the history of Versailles before visiting the well preserved rooms-including the Hall of Mirrors, of course--and gallery. All throughout the palace, the large windows overlook the beautiful gardens. Although there are some food options in the palace as well as some past the garden by the lake, your best bet for cheaper food would be in the town itself. Even after you go inside the gardens, you can exit to the town and grab food before coming back in. As long as you have your ticket ready, the security guards will let you in. In order to conserve resources, the fountains are only running from 11-12 and from 3:30 to 5:00

on the weekends, so time your visit well. It is truly a magical Disneylike experience wandering through the gardens with the fountains on and classical music playing in the background. They also have special night shows on Saturdays. The gleaming and conspicuously modern arch pictured above was actually a part of an exhibition this year hosting several installations from modern artist Lee Ufan. It was an interesting juxstaposition among the Baroque atmosphere. Beyond the garden is a large pond where you can rent boats to row. Along the pond are cafés and food stands as well as table to enjoy the garden. Walking away from the château to the right side of the

pond, there is a path that leads to the Grand Trianon (pictured below), a formerly porcelain and now pink palace where Louis XIV and his mistress escaped and where many a royal woman called home. Entrance requires another ticket, but was free with our student IDs. The mini-palace was decorated like a real-life dollhouse, and had a pretty garden to accompany it. If you have time, you can also check out Marie Antoinette’s estate on her little Hamlet nearby. Be sure to check out the water show in one part of the garden as well as the orchard near the palace. If you visit the château, gardens and Trianon, it makes a perfect day-long itinerary.

STUDENT RESOURCES

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Final Tips & Advice

Travel in France is amazing, especially when I can basically make conversation with the locals. I rented rooms on Airbnb.com, so even I was all traveling alone for freedom, I also had company at night, and they taught me French culture in their area. Zirui Zheng 3rd year Applied Math/Econ major, French minor

for studying

ON INTERACTING WITH LOCALS

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French people aren’t as snooty or arrogant as Americans make them out to be! French people care a lot about respect and saying “bonjour” when you enter an establishment lets them know that you respect their business.

Here are some useful study resources to check out to keep the time spent in front of a textbook to a minimal! WordReference: Good for definitions, conjugations and context (as well as slang and other experessions), from English to French and vice versa! French-English Dictionary App - Free: Good for on-the-go reference, has a built in offline dictionary

Andrea Salamat 4th year Anthropology major, French minor

Conjuguemos.com: Despite the Spanish name, there is also French conjugation practice. You can select which tenses to practice and it will just automatically generate exercises. Good for mindless conjugation practice on specific tenses before a final. Languageguide.org: A general comprehensive website that has articles on different grammatical structures that are good for review outside of your textbook.

FOR GETTING AROUND PARIS Google Maps App (with offline maps, see page 11) Paris Metro App

for traveling

FOR GENERAL STUDENT TRAVEL INFO: STA Travel: http://www.statravel.com/travel-paris.htm BUDGETING TIPS: http://www.eurocheapo.com/paris/features/budget-tips-paris.html FOR GETTING AROUND FRANCE & BEYOND http://www.eurostar.com/us-en http://www.raileurope.com/european-trains/tgv/how-to-book.html http://www.sncf.com/en/passengers FOR FINDING ACCOMMODATIONS: http://www.hostelworld.com/ https://www.airbnb.com/ FOR MAKING THE MOST OUT OF A WEEKEND TRIP: Tripomatic App (Itineraries and more!)

ON TRAVELING

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ON APPRECIATING THE CULTURE

I think I definitely learned to enjoy life more, especially by looking at all the French people who enjoy every single bite of food and take their time to relax and feel good. [Unlike Americans, who are always on the go!] Diana Pandelica 3rd year History major

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ON ACTING PARISIAN

Don’t smile on the métro! (It invites unwanted attention!)

Lucie, CIEE Coordinator during our first orientation

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For more information about this program, please contact the UCLA International Education Office.

Au revoir et bon voyage!