Texas Living History WOMEN SOLDIERS and REENACTORS
THE POLITE SOCIETY
The Battle of Goliad and the
Texas Revolution
TEXAS FORTS & HILL COUNTRY
Medicinal Plants
Gentlemen at Home in the State of Undress Banyans, Slippers, & Evening Caps
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Summer Texas Living History Quarterly Magazine
This Spring has been very busy with many living history annual events. It was hard deciding on what to attend. The up and coming summer schedules are filling up with equal zeal and enthusiasm. In this new summer issue of The Texas Living History Quarterly I hope it will offer the readers suggestions and ideas on historical character development and the motivation to be living historians. There are articles on period correct clothing options and civilian home life. There are articles of Spring events from around Texas featuring reenactors at their finest. Portraying soldiers in battles and civilians in the path of its destruction. Battles that changed the course of Texas. I hope you enjoy reading the Summer edition and I look forward to collecting articles for the Fall edition. So sip a cool glass of switchel to stay refreshed on your plant foraging adventures and be on the look out for the pretty purple blooms of the Lyre Leaf Sage. Enjoy your summer.
Tereasa
Sandra Late Summer Blooms of Golden Rod Saladago. A pasture of Golden Rods at Greg Grants home East Texas. It is Best to forage the young leaves for tasty herbal tea. Leave the Blooms for nectar food for the bees.
Pg. 3
Table of Contents
Women Soldiers Pg.27 Mary Tepe 114th Regiment Collis Zouaves
Men in Undress pg. 18
and a new Book
Gunpowder on Their Skirts: Military Heroines for the Blue and Gray
Living History Showcase pg 30 This however is the fashion, the ton, and what can a man do? He must wear a banyan.� This yellow damask banyan with its bold Chinese Chippendale – inspired pattern would have been an imposing sight on the streets or in the drawing rooms of London. A Little House In Texas Becoming Laura Pg. 16 & 17 Reenacting: Why I do it and Why it is Important. Stephanie Ford
Living History Event Spotlight Pg 18 & 19
The Return Of The Regulators reenactors from across the State and beyond set out to recreate the scene of infantry soldiers arriving at the fort after nearly a decade of abandonment. Kevin Malcom
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Texas Living History Quarterly On the Cover Photo by Stephanie Ford Showcase Photos and blog post by Stephanie Ford
2019 CONFERENCE Save The Date. If you have any skills or trades to teach please consider sharing your knowledge in a session or workshop. A call for Conference Proposals will be announced soon.
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On Page 1 Historically inspired clothing made by Laura Ingalls Gunn. Styled by @_lou_bee_ and photographed by @h.an_na.h On page 32 and page 33 All photography by Lisa Bawel Bishop
Texas Living History Association facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/TXLHA/
Information, Research, and Support for Docents, Military Reenactors, Musuems, Civilian Reenactors, and Living Historians
JOIN THE TEXAS LIVING HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION tlha1836@gmail.com Membership Application
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Switchel or Haymaker’s Punch Old-Fashioned Summer Drink Switchel has a long history as a traditional drink with Colonial Americans.
Laura Ingels Wilder has a recipe for switchel in her cookbook which was based on the recipes that she described in the “Little House” book series. It describes Ma mixing up water in a big jug with ginger and vinegar and sending Laura out to the field to give it to Pa while he was cutting hay.
Switchel is a healthy, energizing tonic, with an electrolyte boost to the immune system.
Combine 3 cups water with ginger in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let infuse for 15 minutes. Strain the gingerinfused water into a pitcher, pressing on the ginger solids to extract all the liquid. Add honey (or maple syrup) and molasses; stir until dissolved. Stir in lemon juice, vinegar and the remaining 6 cups water. Chill until very cold, at least 2 hours or overnight. Stir the punch and serve in tall glasses over ice cubes. Garnish with berries, mint sprigs or lemon slices, if desired. Make Ahead Tip: Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Ready In 2 h 30 m
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¾ cup lemon juice ¼ cup cider vinegar Fresh berries, mint sprigs or lemon slices for garnish ¼ cup honey, or pure maple syrup ¼ cup molasses 1/2 teaspoon ginger (fresh) Squad size For 8 servings
1 gallon water 2 cups raw or dark brown sugar 1 cup honey 1 cup molasses 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon ginger (fresh) Platoon Size
Recipe from the Old Farmers Alamac
Contributors Stephanie Ford Freelance Illustrator/Fine Artist, Educator, Author Livng Historian
EVENTS Events are added to the TLHA facebook Calender. https://www.facebook.com/ groups/TXLHA/
Laura Ingalls Gunn
Contributing to THLQ Magazine
Interior Designer/Owner at Decor To Adore Author Living Historian
We are always seeking contributors to our magazine. If you have a reenacting event or museum living history report of an event email it to lleia56@hotmail.com
Lorelei Caracausa
Living Historian Showcase
Designer, weaver & general gopher at Bee Weaver Studio and works at Owner at Heritage Arts
The Historian showcase is designed to celebrate excellence in character research, including historical accuracy in clothing. The goal of teaching this knowledge to others.
Kevin Malcom TLHA Ft. Hills District Representive Educator/ Curator Fort McKavett State Historic Site
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Event Spotlight If you have an outstanding summer event to announce send a report with pictures for the Fall Issue. lleia56@hotmail.com
ON THE SHELF
Writing History
Bart L. Largent Author of George “Machine Gun” Kelly The Complete Story of His Life, Crimes, & Death I first became interested in George Kelly in 1976 when I was at the Fort Worth Police and Fire Training Center and noticed a display on the wall containing his Thompson machine gun. At the time I knew of Machine Gun Kelly but didn’t know of his connection to Fort Worth. I was born and raised in Fort Worth and have always enjoyed its rich history. I soon discovered that Kelly had many connections to Fort Worth and North Texas. Since that time in 1976, I have spent forty years researching Kelly and others associated with him. My book was published in January 2018. My first book signing event was held at the Paradise Historical Museum in Paradise, Texas. I thought that this location was appropriate because of the many visits Kelly made to the Paradise area. I am a collector of gangster memorabilia, especially “Machine Gun” Kelly items, such as the bricks from the Decatur railroad depot where Kelly’s body was taken in 1954, a twenty dollar 1928 ransom note, and over a hundred of original photographs taken by news photographers. I have been in law enforcement for over thirty years starting with the Tarrant County Sheriff’s Department. I’m currently a Federal Police Officer with the United States Treasury Department. I live in Benbrook just outside of Fort Worth, Texas.
I plan on continuing my writings of 1930s gangsters and lawmen and hope to have another book ready for publication by spring 2019.
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Crazy Crow Trading Post
Necessary Things Tall Spurtle Whisk
Old World Kitchen , Jonesville, VA, USA.
This unique and original stirring stick is reversible. Use the round hole Gage D’Mor Bag $18.95 for whisking batter, or This classic, heart-shaped buckskin pouch was a favorite with Rocky use the other end for Mountain Trappers and is well-docustirring and the hole for hanging. Perfect for mented in the original period paintings of Alfred Jacob Miller mixing beverages or batters, and sure to be http://www.crazycrow.com/mouna conversation piece in tain-man-bags-and-pouches/gage-dyour kitchen. Approxi- more-bag mately 13.5” long. Pictured in Fancy Maple. $ 99.00 https://www.poldersoldworldmarket.com/products/new-tall-spurtlewhisk
Baske ts by E m i ly
Vagabond House Bee Honey Pot with Spoon $44.00 The Bee Honey Pot with Spoon is one of Vagabond House’s bestsellers. Perfect for a breakfast buffet or on permanent display in your happy kitchen, this clear glass honey pot is topped with a pewter honey bee and accented with a busy bee handled honey spoon. Dimensions: 3” W x 5” H
Herb Gathering Basket
Even a non-herb gardener will enjoy collecting flowers in this basket! A comfortable basket to carry with the woven handle.Measures approx.18” long, 10” wide, and 6 and1/2” tall, including handle
THE WHITE DOGWOOD https://shopwhitedogwood.com/bee-honey-pot-withspoon-by-vagabond-house/
$35.00 http://www.basketsbyemily.com
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Forage For Wild Herbs Summer is the best Time FIVE RULES FOR SUSTAINABLE FORAGING 1. Properly identify the plant. Make sure you know 100 % the identity of the plant. 2. Harvest in safe places. Avoid anywhere that might be tainted with pesticides or industrial run-off. 3. Never harvest endangered species. Check the “watch� list . 4. Harvest no more than a third. If there are only 2 plants in a stand leave them. 5. Leave the Healthiest Behind. COMMON WILD HERBS Wood Sorrel, Yarrow, Garlic Mustard, Plantain, Ground Ivy, St. Johns Wort, Violets, and Golden Rod (see page 3)
The Pharmacy Garden at Festival Hill Texas. A collection of medicinal herbs from around the world.
Lyre Leaf Sage This is a beautiful blue flowering herb that is easy to grow. It is in the mint family such as rosemary and oregano and related to the garden sage. It is a perennial and generally blooms April through June. It is considered a wild edible medicinal plant and has uses in the kitchen. The leaves have a mild mint flavor and is good tossed in salads or cooked like spinach. The blossoms add an elegant touch to any dish. The seeds can be ground and mixed with flour to make breads. Some native tribes made poultices for insect stings. The Cherokee used this herb in medicine as infusion for coughs and to treat fevers. Folk medicine claimed Lyre Leaf Sage roots were a treatment for cancer. They would use it to treat skin lesion and tumors. Lyre Leaf Sage Honey Dry the leaves and blooms . Fill a canning jar loosely with plant material. Add lemon balm or thyme. Cover with raw honey. Fill to top and place jar in window sill for 1 week turning daily. Then place in refrigerate for best shelf life.
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Lorelei Caracausa came to Texas as soon as life allowed after college, almost 40 years ago. The family finally set down roots with a small farm in East Texas near Palestine, then a smaller farm near the Johnson County town of Godley. History has been a deeply held passion since grade school. Her mother was given a spinning wheel while Lorelei was quite young, but never proceeded to do a thing with the wondrous tool. When Theresa was a toddler, they brought the wheel, a late 19th century Canadian Production Wheel home and the immersion into the study of women’s chores during the westward movement began in earnest. Lorelei and her partners opened a local yarn shop called Heritage Arts, which taught the vanishing skills of spinning, weaving and dyeing. During the time of the shop, participating in Living History events was very difficult. Now that the shop is no longer and her daughter is grown, events can be scheduled. When her Husband, Joe, retired, he had decided to add beekeeping to the husbandry activities of the farms. Now with 20 or so hives, Lorelei started to research the history of beekeeping in the new world. Acquiring the period tools has proven difficult but rewarding. She is always on the lookout for another tool to add to her kit.
Life as an Itinerant Bee Liner
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Life as an Itinerant Bee Liner Honey Bees are not native to North America, but came with the Europeans exploring the new world. By the time the Spanish and then the Anglos moved into the area that was to become Texas, Honeybees were found in abundance. At a campsite in North Texas, Davey Crockett noted the profusion of bees in the surrounding trees, and he carved his name and the words “Honey Grove” into a nearby tree- the sight of today’s Honey Grove, TX, between Paris and Bonham. The early Texians had no need to “keep” bees in the traditional manner, but many small holders were noted to have 2 or 3 hives behind their homes, “for person use.” But the sweet honey was not the primary product they were seeking. As soon as agriculture became established in an area, cane and sorghum became the sweetener of choice because it was easier and cheaper to produce. The early settlers were interested in the beeswax, which was vitally important to pioneer life. Candles for lighting the dark is an obvious use of the valuable wax, and those candles, usually in the golden color, were also the “money” used for barter. The darker wax was used for water proofing; buckets, churns and fabric. The dark wax was also used as an ingredient in axel grease and as a finishing coat for wrought iron. The most precious white wax was the most treasured. According to Mrs. Mary Austin Holley, cousin of Stephen F. Austin, in her 1835 book Texas, “White or bleached beeswax generally sells for one dollar a pound in the cities of Mexico, where large quantities are made use of for the candles in churches.” In fact, candles in the Catholic Church were made of 100% beeswax until late in the 20th century. Also from Holley’s book Texas, ; “It is common for hunters to secure the wax and throw away the honey, as it is of trifling value.” As a time traveling bee liner, I have to be able to present all of this information, plus much more, to the various audiences and keep their interest. My props help in the endeavor as many folks have never seen some of the old tools or maybe just seen pictures of bee hives and have never been able to look into one. I try to bring out only the equipment suited to the time period of the event. I do not stay in first person if someone asks a pertinent question that shows they are engaged and willing to learn. My main goal is to make the world safer for honey bees and other pollinators, and I try to do that by teaching the public, but especially the school children. My proudest moment happened at a reenactment where I spent school days talking with the kids, teachers and some parents. The children were given free tickets to bring their families back the next day. Upon returning, they became the teacher as they related exactly what I had told them the preceding school day. Success!
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As a time traveling bee liner, I have to be able to present all of this information, plus much more, to the various audiences and keep their interest. Lorelei Caracausa
Historical Embroidery in Modern Times Are you a dreamer? Someone that dreams of days gone by? Do you dream of centuries in the past where you could express yourself with beautiful clothing? Do you daydream in the Renaissance era? What about the Elizabethan era? The Regency period? Or do you daydream in all eras, fantasizing about all of the beautiful, luxurious clothes from all of the various eras you are interested I in? Dresses and coats made of silk, velvet, satin, or linen that are all handmade. Embroidery is the stunning centerpiece of all of these beautiful one-of-akind clothes. In modern times, the opportunity to wear clothes such as these eludes us. However, for some of us the lure of historical reenactment is a driving factor in our lives. Since most of us do not have the time to complete extravagant embroidery by hand, ArtEmbroidery has provided a fabulous opportunity to use the exact designs seen in vintage paintings in our historical clothing reproduction pursuits. These beautiful designs can be stitched out in a fraction of the time using an embroidery machine. A fairly exact replica of a favorite extant gown or coat is now ours to recreate thanks to the superb digitizing of Liuba Tabunidze from ArtEmbroidery. Few examples: 1. Elizabethan Scrolls Set. What is your favorite daydream? Do you see yourself in the exquisite clothing of the Elizabethan era? If you are ready to walk out of a painting in a uniquely embroidery gown or doublet, ArtEmbroidery has the designs you have only dreamed of before. Jacket project made by Designs from Times. (photo page 15)
Edward VI of England Borders
2. Edward VI of England borders. Do paintings of Kings and Queens of yesteryear inspire you to create a historical outfit? Do the exquisite trims on these paintings elicit the desire to design a modern outfit with a dash of 500 year old flair to it? Either way, ArtEmbroidery delivers exactly what you are looking for! By carefully studying the clothing worn in historical portraits of famous figures, ArtEmbroidery has created machine embroidery designs that are as individual as the portraits that inspired them. Man’s Jacket project by Rhonda Turnquist.
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Elizabethan Scrolls continued on Page 20 & 22
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A Little House in Texas
By Laura Ingalls Gunn
Over 150 years have passed since Laura Ingalls Wilder was born in a log cabin in Pepin, Wisconsin. Still the stories she shared in her Little House series of books remain dear in the hearts of readers all over the world. There is no documentation that Laura ever spent any time in Texas. She came close when she and her family crossed several creeks and rivers in a covered wagon before coming to rest in Independence, Kansas. Her father, Charles Ingalls, hoped to receive 160 acres of land through the 1862 Homestead Act. However, they would only live in their Little House on the Prairie for just over a year before returning to Wisconsin. One of the many adventures that Laura shared of this short time was of Texas longhorns crossing the open prairie in front of their cabin while being driven to Fort Dodge. (1) My family and I came to settle in Texas in 2014. We had spent several years as pioneers of a sort stationed in faraway places such as Crete and Germany. Like Caroline Ingalls I was happy to finally have a place I could permanently call home. Despite my family history I never considered becoming a living history presenter. I fell into it by accident while providing art instruction to elementary schoolchildren. I was asked by a teacher at the school to deliver a simple presentation to fourth graders who were studying the books. Since that time I have given many presentations to other schools, libraries, and homeschooling groups. But there is no age limit for Laura fans. I have also shared Laura’s life with women’s groups, bible studies, and even an employee retreat. Most recently I have worked with the National Cowgirl Museum in Fort Worth and the Farmers Branch Historical Park. Yet even 20 years later I consider myself a novice at best. Laura’s lifespan covered some of the most incredible historical events in our country. It would be impossible to be an expert on everything that occurred from 1867 through 1957.
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In recent years I have shifted my focus to the fashions worn through the various eras of Laura’s life. This is no easy task as the clothing includes everything from hoop skirts to poodle skirts. I decided to start at the beginning with Civil War Era fashions. The beauty of Laura’s storytelling is that it is very descriptive. In the book Little House in the Big Woods she discusses at length the dresses worn by her aunts in the chapter Dance at Grandpa’s. I settled upon Aunt Docia’s dress. “Aunt Docia’s dress was a sprigged print, dark blue, with springs of red flowers and green leaves thick upon it. The basque was buttoned down the front with black buttons which looked so exactly like juicy big blackberries that Laura wanted to taste them.” (2) From there it took me an entire year of research and gathering the materials to create the dress. I was careful to use cotton thread and calico fabric as well as the sewing techniques of the time period. The dress was trimmed with antique lace and glass buttons. The entire sewing process was covered step by step on my website. Just two years later I cringe a bit when viewing the photos as there is so much I would now change as my knowledge has increased. Recently, I created a late Victorian walking suit and have future plans to delve into men’s wear. My son has shown an interest in our family history and often attends events with me. So far we have gotten by with store bought merchandise for him. But I hope to change that. This June will have me in Independence, Kansas at the Prairie Days event. My planned task is to sew some calico curtains for the newly finished reproduction cabin. November will have my family and me at Farmer’s Branch once again sharing a love of Laura. 1. 2.
Wilder, Laura Ingalls. Little House on the Prairie. New York, NY: Harper & Row, 1935, 162-69. Wilder, Laura Ingalls. Little House in the Big Woods. New York, NY: Harper & Row, 1932, 140-41.
About the Author Laura Ingalls Gunn lives with her husband, two children and two dachshunds in a little house she has named Storybook Cottage. You can visit her website www.decortoadore.net to view articles on pioneer clothing, cooking, crafts and other home keeping skills.
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Members of Co. D, 35th U.S. I
Philip Beckman, Michael Jordan, Frank Siltman, Edgar Garza, Kevin Malcolm. Seated from left to right are Kevin Dally & Aaron Siltman. In front Ben Beckman
The Return of the Regulars
Kevin Malcom “Cheap Cash Store.�
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FORT McKAVETT
The Post on the San Saba
Regulars Return to the Texas Frontier! Kevin Malcom On March 10, 2018 the parade ground of Fort McKavett State Historic Site was full of visitors. Over 100 members of the public were conspicuously gathered at the northeast corner near the last standing enlisted quarters, Barracks No. 4. The casual onlooker might think they were waiting on something. For those travelling along neighboring highway, it wasn’t hard to piece together what the interest was about. Along that highway soldiers of the 35th US Infantry Regiment (circa 1868) were also inbound for Fort McKavett’s parade ground and the cool respite awaiting them in the barracks. 2018 marks the 150th Anniversary of the reoccupation of Fort McKavett after the U.S. Civil War. During the war, frontier defense in Texas lacked under the Confederate Government. As a result, Anglocivilization fled east to the larger and safer settlements near San Antonio and Austin. War’s end sees the breaking up of state and Confederate units guarding the frontier, yet the federal army was also slow to redeploy to West Texas as well. With Fort Clark, (near Brackettville) reestablished in 1866 and Fort Concho (present-day San Angelo) established in 1867, it was initially thought that there was no need for a permanent fort between the two regimental headquarters. Increasing depredations, in particular a massive raid in 1866 in Menard County, forced the Army to reconsider the position and they opted to reopen Fort McKavett on the western edge of the county. In March 1868, soldiers of the 4th US Cavalry left Fort Mason (near Mason) to reoccupy Fort McKavett and set about reestablishing the U.S. Army’s presence there. On March 30, Fort McKavett was officially reestablished and work began. Two weeks later, companies of the 35th Infantry arrive and begin the reconstruction process if the dilapidated Fort. In 2018, reenactors from across the State and beyond set out to recreate the scene of infantry soldiers arriving at the fort after nearly a decade of abandonment. On Friday evening, reenactors were issued rations and dropped off in a location a few miles away. After bivouacking along the San Saba River, the soldiers of Co. ‘D’ set out, marching over 5 miles to the fort in historic marching order: packs, blanket rolls, ammunition and water containers, and weapons. They arrived to much public fanfare around 11:30am on Saturday and raised the flag over the newly-reopened garrison. The afternoon was filled with the sounds of labor as the soldiers set about breaking down army bread (hard tack) boxes and repurposing the sawn lumber to make barracks furniture, which is now on display. Evening saw a hearty meal of rice, beans, and fresh beef served to the worn out troops before some retired to their bunks while others enjoyed the tavern night life in this secluded spot. Sunday morning came with leftover stew, rifle and marching drill, and a company picture. Events such as the one just described are unique and highly valuable in the advancement of history education. This gives the public an opportunity to see 19th Century soldiering life on a small and personal scale, which allows them to affirmatively place themselves in that time and place. We want to extend our thanks to all of the volunteers who made this event possible, particularly our reenactors. We’d also like to thank the public for their attendance and continued support of Fort McKavett, without you, none of this would be possible. The 150th Anniversary of the reoccupation of Fort McKavett after the U.S. Civil War.
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Historical Embroidery in Modern Times
3. 18th Century Pocket Similar to Embroidery techniques that are reminiscent of days gone by, pockets are an integral element for the elegant lady’s 18th century wardrobe. Using an extant historical piece as a guide, ArtEmbroidery has made it possible for modern historical re-enactors to recreate age-old embroidery techniques in a fraction of the time typically involved in making these items. Pocket project made by Wendy de Glee .
5. Mermaid & Griffin Border The Medieval era. A time of chivalry and honor. Knights atop horses and fair maidens in castles. A favorite era for historical clothing fans. ArtEmbroidery has created beautiful embroidery to embellish clothing so that unique gowns and tunics can be made.
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4. 1760’s Roses Waistcoat Men’s fashions in the 18th century have generally been out of reach for the average historical clothing enthusiast due to the complicated embroidery. Not anymore! ArtEmbroidery has recreated the exquisite designs so they can now be stitched out at home to create a stunning waistcoat and frock coat . Project made by Dino Doge Simionato.
Do you have a favorite extant gown that you have always wanted to recreate? Is there a portrait that you have dreamed about having the gown made? What about a costume from a favorite historical film? Do you have the embroidery machine but lack the embroidery digitizing skills to create your own designs? You can sew but lack an embroidery sewing machine to stitch out the designs the would be perfection on your gown? ArtEmbroidery can help make all of your embroidery dreams come true! Liuba happily takes commissions for custom embroidery designs that can be digitized for a single customer’s use. She also takes requests from individuals for designs that they would like to have available for anyone to use. Even if you lack an embroidery machine, Liuba can stitch out the requested embroidery on your fabric for you on her industrial 15 needles machine. She will then send the completed embroidery on your fabric back to you so you can then finish sewing up your outfit! ArtEmbroidery’s goal is to make beautiful embroidery accessible to anyone that would like explore this magnificent art form. Historical embroidery designs can also be used to embellish your modern wardrobe too! Do you have a run-of-the-mill skirt that is a fairly simple design that you would like to crank up a notch or two? You can use exquisite and unique historical embroidery designs to transform a boring skirt into the most talked about skirt at work. Fancy a new nightgown? Make a new one out of luxurious cotton fabric and add Tudor borders to it so you will have a beautiful creation. The possibilities are endless with historical embroidery designs from ArtEmbroidery. ArtEmbroidery making Embroidery dreams come true every day.
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Gentlemen in Undress
Banyans (also called morning gowns or dressing gowns, or, in France, robes de chambre) are the more elegant ancestors of that 20th c. male favorite, the wrap-and-tie bathrobe. Popular from the late 17th c. into the early 19th c., banyans were worn over shirts and breeches for informal wear.
The first banyans were very full and long with open fronts and no tailoring or shaping; later ones became more fitted. Popular fabrics continued the period’s preference with banyans cut from rich silks and brocades as well as cooler linens .
Berlin wool work was a style of embroidery very popular during the Victorian era. These men’s Victorian shoes were worked on canvas in a petit-point stitch with colorful wools, producing an intricate three-dimensional look. The uppers were usually embroidered at home and were then taken to a shoemaker to be made up. The men’s Victorian shoes are eleven inches long with a red wool lining. Creating men’s shoes, such as these, was a popular pastime for Victorian women due largely to the fact that, for the first time in history, a fairly large number of women had leisure time to devote to needlework. Berlin wool work patterns for this style men’s Victorian shoes, furniture covers, cushions, and bags were found in women’s magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s Magazine. A great source on how to make your own slippers.
Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker
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Banyans, Slippers, and Caps
For at-home wear, a gentleman had a dressing gown, often with a matching waistcoat, and an undress cap or turban. As for breeches, they were not designed especially for this casual ensemble, but rather borrowed from other suits. The dressing gown was cut like a man’s loose coat and usually hung to the floor, though there were also versions that stopped below the knees. Since there were no fastenings, the wearer overlapped the dressing gown in front when he walked so that the sides did not billow out behind him. The sleeves were originally rolled back to form cuffs, but later dressing gowns display the fashionable cuff of their period. In England these dressing gowns were called “banyans” or “Indian nightgowns” because of their kimono-like form and Eastern origin. Banyans were made in a variety of fabrics, including silk brocades, damasks, and printed cottons. Winter banyans were occasionally quilted for extra warmth. Gentlemen received friends while attired in banyans as a sign of their informality and of their intimacy with the visitor. By the 1780s gentlemen ventured out of doors in this comfortable and stylish costume. Gentlemen at Home “Banyans are worn in every part of the town from Wapping to Westminster,” 1750 From DuranTextile newsletter, 2007. Author: Martin Ciszuk
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Men’s caps for at home were brightly colored, ornate, and often bordering on gaudy. They were frequently made at home and were uncomplicated in construction, typically fashioned of wool, silk or velvet and topped with a multicolored tassel. Notably, the Victorian smoking cap showcased a multiplicity of Victorian needlework skills and techniques.
Pattern for Men’s Slippers
Men’s slipper contruction
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Slipper pattern from Lady Godey’s Magazine
NOTES 1. Fabric grain follows vertical lines of graph paper. 2. Pattern pieces are drawn without seam allowance. 3. Eighteen ¾-inch thread-covered buttons border the overlap of a double-breasted front closure in two rows of nine. The proper-left front edge has nine 1¼- inch-long buttonholes. There are no interior buttons or buttonholes to fasten the underlap. 4. Two 9 ½-inch openings along the side-seams access built-in pockets. Each upper pocket is attached to the banyan front, while each under pocket is not attached to the banyan back, creating a side slit that provides access to breeches worn underneath. 5. The banyan is lined with linen plain weave; the collar is lined with silk damassé. 6. The banyan is fully padded with a loosely-wovenwool plain-weave interlining
Man’s At-home Robe (Banyan), textile: China, 1700–50; robe: the Nether- lands, 1750–60, silk satin and silk plain weave (damassé), center-back length: 50 1/4 in. (127.64 cm), purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne, M.2007.211.797, photo © 2010 Museum Associates/LACMA European men wore an at-home garment called a banyan. Influenced by East Asian and Persian robes. This hand- sewn example was made of green silk damassé woven in China. Tailored in the Netherlands to mimic Persian robes, the cut and construction of this banyan, particularly its button closure, is characteristically European. It is fully interlined for warmth.
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smoking cap embroidery patterns
Man’s Nightcap 18th century The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
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Banyan Pattern from page 21
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Lone Star Cockades “We have observed, for a few days past, a number of blue cockades, surmounted by metallic five-pointed stars, worn on the hats or coats, of many of our citizens. The cockade is the badge common to the citizens of the Southern States. The star is peculiar to Texians. The combination of the two emblems seems particularly appropriate to the times.” This report from an 1860 newspaper raises an interesting question: How did the star become “peculiar to Texians”? We just celebrated 182nd anniversary of Texas Independence Day, and guess what? That’s where the story of Lone Star cockades originates!
So it’s not surprising that on March 2, 1836, the state of CoaThe story starts in 1821 when Mexico won its independence from huila y Tejas seceded from MexSpain. In 1823 it became the United Mexican States and created a ico. As the secessionists fought constitution in 1824. Coahuila y Tejas was one of the states of this against Santa Anna, eyewitnesses new republic. Their flag was the Mexican tricolor of red, white and green with two gold stars in the center. The two stars stood for the reported they flew a red, white two areas of Coahuila and Tejas. and green flag with two stars on The area of Coahuila y Tejas that is now Texas was pretty sparsely populated at it - a star for Coahuila and a star the time, except for the violent Comanche Indians. Therefore, Mexico was quite for Tejas. Mexican Col. Juan Alpleased to welcome American immigrants to the land. Stephen Austin led 300 monte, wrote in his journal about American settlers there in 1823 and others followed, bringing prosperity to the the Battle of the Alamo that, “the area. Unfortunately for Mexico, they also brought American ideas on religion enemy, as soon as the march of and politics. This led to clashes with the Mexican government. the division was seen, hoisted the tri-colored flag with two stars, Two Stars Over the Alamo designed to represent Coahuila and Texas.” By October 1835 open war had broken out between the Americans Though the Battle of the Alamo and Mexico. The American settlers initially had some victories but was technically lost, “Remember by February 1836 General Santa Anna was on his way to personally the Alamo” galvanized Ameriretake Texas. Since this involved wiping out even troops that surrencans across the United States dered (including those in the Battle of the Alamo), he quickly became to gather in support of Texas’ unpopular with Americans. independence. On April 21, an But since Santa Anna also decided to overturn the Mexican governarmy under Sam Houston won ment and wipe out opposition, this made him unpopular with the Battle of San Jacinto and Mexicans too. captured Santa Anna. Two Stars in Mexico
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The Lone Star of Texas Coahuila and Texas separated after they seceded and became independent republics. Texas now flew its own flag: Blue with a lone star in the center. Though this flag only flew a few years, it remains a Texas symbol and was used during the Civil War by the Volunteers of the Fifth Infantry Regiment, Hood’s Texas Brigade. In 1839 the current flag of Texas was adopted and was kept even when Texas gained American statehood in 1845. It too includes the iconic Lone Star of Texas. So it’s no surprise that by the 1860s, Texas cockades just naturally included stars! Lone Star Cockades The Ranchero noted on December 1, 1860, “Many citizens are wearing the blue cockade, surmounted by metalic five-pointed stars. The Telegraph notices the appearance of the blue cockade on the streets of Houston, worn by numbers of citizens, and gives the following descrïption of it: It consist of a neat blue rosette, pinned to the hat, having a silver five-pointed star in the centre. It means that the wearers pledge their lives, their fortunes and their sacred honor to resistance to abolition encroachments, and that they can see no way of successful resistance but in the withdrawal of their State from the Union.” Need a Lone Star Cockade? I’m happy to supply both blue and red cockades with the Texas star or a military star on them! Check out the ones listed in my shop or hit me up for a custom order!
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https://creativecockades.ecwid.com/
24th Annual Civil War Living History and Reenactment
Mexia
The event is at the historic Confederate Reunion Grounds in Mexia, Texas every April for the annual living history and battle reenactment. Battle reenactments on the site go back to the 1880’s when members of the United Confederate Veterans reenacted the taking of “Old Valverde,” (the canon on site), at the battle of Mansfield. Spectators can stroll through the period camps, visit with reenactors, watch cannon fire and the artillery, infantry, and cavalry battle on the grounds on Saturday and Sunday afternoon. Reenactors enjoy camping under the shady oak trees on the banks of the Navasota River in the same place where the old veterans once camped. Enjoy a catered meal Saturday evening followed by a period ball in the ca.1895 dance pavilion. Now, more than ever, is the time to keep the old veterans’ traditions alive!
Photography by Stephanie Ford
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LIVING
HISTORIAN
SHOWCASE
Stephanie Ford Reenacting: Why I do it and Why it is Important ( from S.H. FORD blog post May 2017) abridged This weekend I went to another “reenactment” at the Confederate Reunion Grounds in Mexia, Texas, and at this event I did a lot of thinking as to why I am involved in living history. The reason for this inner reflection, is before leaving, I had seen someone on social media say that reenactors are pretty much useless when it comes to preserving history. This troubling thought remained on my mind throughout the weekend and made me take a hard look at and ask: “What are we doing to make sure history is being preserved?” By the end, I saw both good and wrong things being done and decided to share my observations. First of all, especially if you have never attended a reenactment as a spectator or participant, you may find what living historians or “reenactors” do as being somewhat odd. The media has sure done it’s part to make us look a little nutty. After all, we pour thousands of dollars into outdated clothing that is hot, scratchy, and restrictive then we sleep on the ground and fire blank rounds out of antiquated guns at each other. Books like Confederates in the Attic don’t help in that authors and filmmakers always manage to seek out the most extreme members of our living history community to interview. Perhaps it would help if I gave a quick run down of why I chose to get into this “hobby” twenty years ago. My reasons, after many discussions with other living historians, is a fairly normal story. I got bit by the history bug when a teenager after watching the 1994 version of Little Women. I wanted to be Jo March. (I was already writing at the time, so that of course added to my love of that character.) To fuel my interest, I was living in New Hampshire and was only two hours away from Concord, Massachusetts and could fairly easily go visit Orchard House, among other historical sites. For other living historians, it usually starts this way but sometimes with other historical characters or stories: John Wayne movies, Gone with the Wind, Little House on the Prairie, Anne of Green Gables, the original American Girl Dolls and books, as well as non-fiction heroes such as Robert E. Lee and George Washington. And what child who grew up watching the Saturday Disney films with Moochie as Johnny Shiloh or young Kurt Russell as one of Mosby’s Marauders did not have some interest in history sparked by the young heroes’ adventures? Naturally, when I ran across a local reenacting unit and found others of my age and gender involved, I joined them--and have never regretted it. Cont.pg. 28
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Living Historian Showcase Stephanie Ford Why do I reenact? (cont from page 27)
What you can do:
I love to wear the clothes, as it adds a physical connection to the people of the past that you cannot get while sitting in a chair reading a book. I love being with others who have a similar passion of history. I get invited to do awesome things such as sleep in one of the earthen forts at Vicksburg. I love to travel and see new places along with the historical sights. I love trying to figure out what people ate 150 years ago and then learn to make it myself, over a fire. I feel accomplished having the knowledge of clothing construction, food preparation, fire building, among other survival skills that you gain camping primitively. I love being able to add a level of description to my historical fiction novels that come from experience. And I love to share this passion with the public. That last statement is what of late has become a true focus for me and my family. And unfortunately, if you are an historian, you really need to look hard at how you are sharing your love for history, because times have changed and we have our work cut out for us. History, unbiased and with a heart and soul, is being scrubbed from our collective memories. So what is a living historian who is in the hobby for more than just the clothes and/or the burning of powder to do? We need to connect-https://shfordauthor.blogspot.com/2017/05/reenactingwhy-i-do-it-and-why-it-is.html
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1. Make yourself more approachable as an historian/living historian. 2. Find ways to expose children to history in a fun atmosphere. 3. Work with local museums to host events.
Women Soldiers There is the little known story of Rachel and Grace Martin who disguised themselves as men and assailed a British courier and his guards. They took his important dispatches, which they speedily forwarded to General Greene. Then they released the two officers who didn’t even know that they were women. Then there is Anna Warner, wife of Captain Elijah Bailey, who earned the title of “The Heroine of Groton” because of her fearless efforts to aid the wounded on the occasion of the terrible massacre at Fort Griswald in Connecticut. Anna Bailey went from house to house collecting material for bandages for the soldiers. Incidentally she denied ever having used the coarse and profane expressions ever attributed to her. Margaret Corbin stepped up to the artillery during the attack on Fort Washington when her husband fell by her side and unhesitatingly took his place and performed his duties. In July of 1779 the Congress awarded her a pension for her heroism - and a suit of clothes. Angelica Vrooman, during the heat of battle, sat calmly in a tent with a bullet mould, some lead and an iron spoon, moulding bullets for the rangers. Mary Hagidorn, upon hearing the order by a Captain Hager, for the women and children to retire to the long cellar, said: “Captain, I shall not go to that cellar should the enemy come. I will take a spear which I can use as well as any man and help defend the fort.” The captain seeing her determination answered “then take a spear,Mary, and be ready at the pickets to repel an attack.” She cheerfully obeyed and held the spear at the pickets till hurrahs for the American flag burst on her ear and told that all was safe. More Women of the Revolution from “Daughters of America”,1849 and “Women of the Revolution” 1882:
Gunpowder on Their Skirts: Military Heroines for the Blue and Gray
At that moment a woman rode up to him [Ewell] to report what she had seen of the Federal advance. Ewell was no romantic like Beauregard or [Lt. Thomas] Rosser. He had little use for such heroines, and abruptly told her there would be firing here soon. “You’ll get killed,” he said. “You’ll be a dead damsel in less than a minute. Get away from here! Get away!” When Madam declined to leave, Ewell was astonished at her bravery. “Women,” he said to [John B.] Gordon, jerking his thumb in the lady’s direction. “I tell you, sir, women would make a a grand brigade - if it was not for snakes and spiders! They don’t mind bullets - women are not afraid of bullets; but one big blacksnake would put a whole army to flight.” An excerpt from Battle at Bull Run by William C. Davis, p. 191 Richard S Ewell. (He achieved fame as a senior commander under Stonewall)
This book for middle readers presents fascinating biographies of women who played roles in the Civil War without hiding their gender. From Kady Brownell, color bearer for Rhode Island; Bridget Divers in the Michigan cavalry; and Nancy Hart, teenaged spy and scout in West Virginia, to Oriana Moon, surgeon at Manassas, these fearless females contributed much to the war effort. The author provides trueto-life, original drawings as well as archival images and information from primary sources such as 1860s newspapers and military records. The author, who participates in Civil War reenactments, includes a glossary defining such words as artillery, blockade, and sutler.
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The History of Transferware A technique of “printing” designs on ceramics (china) was developed in Staffordshire, England around 1760 called transferware. It was developed by John Sadler and Guy Green of Liverpool. Transfer printing became the answer to providing an affordable alternative to the hand painted pieces that were very expensive that only the wealthy could afford. The transfer process begins when a design is SPODE Sunflower (1770-1833)
etched on a flat copper plate then the copper plate is inked with ceramic coloring. After the plate is thoroughly inked the design would then be transferred to a tissue paper. The inked impression would then be transferred to the ceramic object. After the ceramic object is inked it would be taken to a low-temperature kiln to get fired and glazed to fix the design.
Asiatic Flowers (1830-1834)
SPODE Tobacco Leaf (1780)
Some patterns are almost modern
The transferware designs and patterns are varied but they often incorporate Asian people and scenery with beautiful pagodas. English manufacturers of transferware include Crown Ducal, Enoch Wood, Royal Staffordshire, Royal Crownford, Alfred Meakin, Spode, Johnson Brothers, and Mason’s with most sought after patterns including Crown Ducal’s “Bristol”, “Calico”, “Castles”, “Charlotte”, “English Chippendale”, “English Scenery”, “Friendly Village”, “Historic America”, “Italian”, “Liberty Blue”, “Old Britain Castles”, “Rose Chintz”, “Tonquin”, “Tower” and Vista”. By the 1820s, arguably the golden age of transfer printed pottery, the number of potteries grew and thousands of patterns were printed to tempt any available market. The English may have lost the War of 1812, but potters were ready to sell pottery with patterns lauding the new American nation to the American market. Important buildings, landscapes and war heroes are just a few
of the patterms that appealed to Americans. There were many foreign markets, as well as the home market, to keep the potters busy. When collecting transferware pieces it would be advantageous to be familiar with how to date and identify an original. It is important to note the difference in marks or backstamps between time periods. From 1842 to 1883, the items carried a diamond shaped mark which contains the date the pattern was registered. After 1884, the registry adapted single numbers and registration numbers higher than 360,000 denote creation after the 1900s. Around 1860 to 1880 the word Limited or its abbreviations Lt or Ltd was added and the word Trademark was added and indicates a manufacture date after 1875. The words “Made in England” denotes the piece is created sometime in the 20th century. George Washington’s Saltglaze 1750’s Salt glaze pottery was popular in North America from the early 17th century until the early 19th century
Blue transferware was produced more than any other colors. Colored transferware became popular in America in the 1830s and was exported in red, pink, purple, cranberry, brown, black, green, yellow, gray and various combinations of these colors. There are many transfereware pattern options. It was not always Blue Willow.
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The Goliad Campaign of 1835 Goliad, Texas
Presidio La Bahia,
Reenactors and Living Historians from across Texas gather to recreate the final days of Colonel Fannin’s command
The third and final skirmish is a reenactment of the battle in which the Texians were surrounded and captured by the Mexicans. The actual battle took place many miles away, so it’s reenacted in front of the Presidio for convenience. Death March From Chapel To Actual Massacre Site
Photography by Lisa Bawel Bishop
On Palm Sunday, the 27th of March, the prisoners were divided into three groups, marched onto open prairie, and shot.
For the final event we met outside the Presidio Chapel with hundreds of others, and follow the Texian prisoners and their Mexican captors on a march to the actual massacre site. There, the Goliad Massacre is reenacted as you stand in reverent silence. Followed by Memorial Service that starts in chapel, then a procession to the Fannin Monument for the conclusion of the memorial service.
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Battle of San Jacinto La Porte, Texas
April 1836
The historical reenactors dramatically interpret the Runaway Scrape, the cannon duel and the final battle between the two forces.
The Official State of Texas Ceremony Commemorating the 182nd Anniversary of the Battle of San Jacinto took place Saturday, April 21. The Battle of San Jacinto is an annual event. There were three camps: Texian Army camp, Mexican Army camp and the Runaway (Civilian) camp
“No Quarter”
Billy McCaskill
“Remember the Alamo!
Remember Goliad!”
Photography Lisa Bawel Bishop Ricky D Reyes
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Hutchins Metal Art Customs Designs
All of our designs are cut from 12 gauge steel (standard; other options available) using a computer guided plasma cutter to get a precise design exactly like you want! Pieces are usually finished with a flat black paint, unless otherwise specified. Powder coating is available at additional cost. Most pieces are usually finished within a two week period and can be shipped anywhere in the continental U.S. (shipping fees apply). Any previous designs may be purchased, but due to the nature of making custom metal designs, individual consultations will be necessary for most projects. Please contact us with any questions you may have so we can discuss your individual idea! Johnnie Hutchins, owner
jthutch85@yahoo.com (254) 396 - 1243 http://www.hutchinsmetalart.com/
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13th Annual Mission Tejas Folk Festival 13th Annual Mission Tejas Folk Festival April 28th, 2018 Mission Tejas State Park is a jewel in the midst of the East Texas tall pines, just 20 miles east of Crockett. Every April they host a Folk life Festival honoring the people and traditions of the pioneers who travelled the El Camino Real de los Tejas, the Old Colonial Road from Natchitoches, LA to Mexico City, which passes through the park. The park is a 660 acre delight in the piney woods that houses a reproduction of the first Spanish Mission on Texas ground on the road to Natchitoches. The Civilian Conservation Corps did much of the construction and building of trails back in 1935 after area residents thought that they had found buried Spanish artifacts that may have been the sight of the original Mission San Francisco de los Tejas. They pooled their money and bought the land, then donated it to the state of Texas. The Mission and the Rice Family dog trot cabin are historical buildings open for viewing. The park also has natural spring fed bath tub built by the CCC. The Folk Festival honors those who came before 1840. You will find mountain men and trappers, as well as travellers along the Camino and roving gunfighters represented on the grounds. And this year we have a brand new interpretive center and ranger offices to celebrate, all provided by a grant from TxDOT.
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Lorelei Caracausa
ThePolite Society of American Civil War Civilian Reenactors
Welcome! The Polite Society is a loose national confederation of American Civil War Civilian Reenactors who enjoy participating in civilian activities and events. Military impressions are always welcome...you were once a civilian! One goal of Polite Society is to meet together at various reenactments around the country at the “Polite Society” tent to be of encouragement to one another, participate in recreated social events hosted during the reenactment and have a “parlour” away from home where we can gather together at events to meet with old, as well as, new friends! (Military is always welcome!) It is the hope, that through the nurturing of friendships, the participation together in activities and the good conversations shared, that we might truly further the beauty of politeness and good company in our reenacting society. On the FaceBook page, there will be the sharing period of social information including etiquette, parlour games, social activities, out-of-door amusements, balls and a whole host of wonderful ideas and plans. The group creator and moderator is Karen Duffy (aka: “Mrs. Hamilton). Joining the page allows you to become a most welcomed member of “Polite Society!” Just comment that you would like to to be a member! https://www.facebook.com/groups/PoliteSocietyCW/ Polite Society - American Civil War Please invite your friends to join and everyone welcome new members to the group! We want this to be a polite, fun and carefree group. Please, step into the parlour and rest awhile...you are among friends! “Kindness You Can Depend On!” Karen Duffy (aka: “Mrs. Hamilton) From FaceBook Page Polite SocietyCW
The Texas Chapter Polite Society The Texas Chapter of The Polite Society would love to participate in your Civil War Events. If your location has a venue for civilian reenactors to socialize and to help new reenactors. Please contact your Texas Hostess Tereasa Cotter. https://www.facebook.com/ groups/1471064013202599/ Face Book Page Texas Polite Society -American Civil War
George Dunlop Leslie - Afternoon tea, 1865