Shawlands: History and Stories

Page 1

Shawlands

02 Analysis Stage prepared by,

History and Stories

Lim Xian Ying, Nadin Mahmoud & Archie Prince Urban Design Studies Unit University of Strathclyde Glasgow


Booklet No.2

Introduction The area of study of Kilmarnock Road includes Shawlands, Pollokshaws, Langside and Newlands as Kilmarnock Road is the main spine throughout these suburbs. The present-day suburbs of Pollokshaw and Shawlands are situated within the area of the ancient parish of Eastwood, a parish that has been there since the pre-Reformation times. The suburb of Shawlands has been an area of open fields until the late 19th Century, when its churches and tenement blocks were built. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019) Pollokshaws, however, was a small with a thinly scattered populated village before the Industrial Revolution. By the time of the 1831 census, it grew to be a manufacturing town with a total of 4500 residents. Pollokshaws is conveniently positioned only 3 miles southwest of Glasgow beside the White Cart Water and the Auldhouse Burn. The abundance in water and coal mining helped to generate power for the newly mechanised mills. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019) The cotton trade provided a variety of sources of employment. In addition to spinning yarn and weaving textiles with power-looms, many of the inhabitants were employed in bleachfields and dye-works. The freestone quarries and coalpits in the locality also provided work for the local population. Newlands originated as a farmland around the manor house of Newlands, situated in Cathcart Parish, opposite of White Cart Water in Pollokshaw. Most of the buildings consisted of working farm buildings such as stables, byre and dairy. Upmarket Victorian villas with large green grounds were mainly the character of architecture developed in Newlands. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019) The original village of Langside began around Algie Street, near the Battlefield Monument. During the 17th century, there were a meal mill and a paper mill near the White Cart. In the early 19th century, most of the population of the district were working in the textile industry or agriculture. As Glasgow expanded southwards during the rapid growth of industrialization, Langside is absorbed into the city in 1891. (En.wikipedia.org, 2019)

Authors Archie Prince

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde

Nadine Tarig

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde

Lim Xian Ying

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde


History and Stories

Contents Introduction

01

2

Temporal Mapping

02

1755

4-5

1795

6-7

1856

8-9

1894

10-11

1914

12-13

1935

14-15

1956

16-17

1989

18-19

2019

20-21

Historical Narrative

03

The settlement of the Maxwell Family

22

Queen’s Park

23

Agriculture and Meal Mills

24

Manufacturing

25

Weaving industry and cotton trade.

26

Glasgow and Irvine

27

Redevelopment of Pollokshaw & Shawlands

28

Historic Photos

29-33

Listed Buildings

34-37

Lost Landmarks

38-39

Stories

40-41

Strengths

42

Weaknesses

43

Appendix Decleration

44

References

45

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Booklet No.2

1755 In its early years the centre of Shawlands was actually Shawbridge street, not Kilmarnock road as it is today. In its early years there was some trade based it on the river.

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History and Stories

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Booklet No.2

1795 Again there is very little development and just little settlements popping up. Shawbridge street is still the centre of the area. The old clock tower is still there today.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1856 The development of the Glasgow to London rail line runs through Shawlands. Now we can start to see a bit of development around Kilmarnock road although Shawbridge street is still the centre.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1894 Now we can see more development of Kilmarnock road and more recognizable Glasgow blocks appearing. A new rail network appears cutting of the old historic centre of Shawbridge street and shawlands.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1914 Now we can see urban sprawl happing across shawlands. The centre is moving toward Kilmarnock road as density keeps increasing in that area.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1935 Shawbridge street begins to lose some of its density as Kilmarnock road increase. A higher level of urban sprawl with new community facilities appearing across the area.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1956 Due t its high density the urban fabric remain very similar now, just small developments in derelict plots are appearing. although the most change is around the historic centre of Shawbridge Street.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

1989 Now we can see the old town of Shawbridge street is completely void of what was before apart from the clock tower. New social housing unit appear in that area. We also see Shawlands Arcade has been constructed in the centre of Shawlands.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

2019 Today the urban fabric remains very similar and density is very high in the area with very few derelict sights in Shawlands.

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History and Stories

Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Booklet No.2

The settlement of the Maxwell Family In the middle of the 14th century, Maxwells of Nether Pollok were given a charter of the lands in 1494. (Gibson 1980) In 1885, Sir John Maxwell built the Haggs Castle to replace the Laigh Castle that is already at an irreparable state by that time. (Gibson 1980) (Smart, 2002) Three successive castles owned by the Maxwells (namely the Haggs Castle and the Laigh Castle), were thought to have been built in Pollok before the present Pollok House was built in 1740s. Through the centuries, they were the benefactors to the residents of Pollokshaw. (Smart, 2002)

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History and Stories

Queen’s Park Queen’s park was the site of the Battle of Langside (P3414assignments, 2019) which was fought on 13th May 1568. (Smart, 2002) Queen Mary, coming from Hamilton after mustering a force man marched towards Dumbarton from Hamilton by the way of south bank of the Clyde. However, Regent Moray, learning of the march, quickly positioned his forces on the high ground of Langside Hill, leaving the Queen to position her troops, which were under the command of the Earl of Argyll, on a lesser summit, Clincart Hill. (Smart, 2002) Queen’s park is named after Queen Mary and a few of the streets nearby has been named after persons that were connected with her. Within the districts of study on Kilmarnock Road, there is Lethington, Dirleton, Blairhall and Tantallon at Langside; Herries, Kirkcaldy, Carberry and Darnley at Pollokshaws. (Smart, 2002) In 1887, 300 years after the Battle, a memorial is erected to commemorate the site. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019) (Scotland-guide.co.uk, 2019) The monument, completed in 1887 was unveiled by Sir James King. While the foundation stone was laid by the late J. Wyllie Guild. Classical in its style and treatment of design, the monument is an ornate column standing on a 58 feet high pedestal, with a lion seated toward the direction of the battlefield.

Left: Lion with cannon ball on top of Langside Monument. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019) Right: Langside monument, designed by Alexander Skirving and built in 1887, 300 years after the Battle of Langfield. (Gerald Blaikie, 2019)

Picture of Queen’s park in 1955. Picture taken by Virtual Mitchell

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Booklet No.2

Agriculture and Meal Mills The area along Kilmarnock Road, mainly started as agriculture related villages. Until the end of the 17th Century, the village of Pollokshaws is said to have grown around the meal mill located on the left bank of the Cart nearby Shawbridge. The Mill became a point of attraction that led people to live nearby, establishing the village as a centre of agriculture. (Gibson 1980) (Smart, 2002) As grinding of meal is the earliest form of livelihood in the area, every tenant working in the Pollok Estate was required to have their produce grounded at Shawmill. (Glasgow.gov.uk, n.d.) By the end of the 17th century, Pollokshaws has changed its character from a agriculture village into a centre of manufacturing industry. (Pollokshaws.org.uk, 2019) A small population existed near the Langside meal mill, about a mile south where Langside village started, now known as Algie Street. Located on the west side of the bridge over the cart which is now known as Tantallon Road. Langside Mill had two road that is leading to it at two different levels. The higher-level road led toward the Granary while the other leads to the killogie or the firing house, where pease were dried in. The Mill burnt down in 1848 with only the miller’s lodge surviving and is the cottage that is on looking over to the site of the mill at Millbrae bridge and Newlands. (Smart, 2002)

A sketch of Millbrae nearby the Cart that has been burnt down in the fire in 1848.

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History and Stories

Manufacturing By 1695, the industries in Pollokshaw has changed its character into a centre of industry where its residents and their profession included being crofters, barrel makers, cord and rope makers, clothier , blacksmiths , maltmans , glover, skinner , masons and carpenters. There were also heirloom weavers who worked from their home. These weavers were the first few who dominated Pollokshaw in the time to come (Pollokshaws.org.uk, 2019)

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Booklet No.2

Weaving industry and cotton trade. The first record found on The Pollokshaws Society of Weavers is dated from 1749, where the earliest type of weaving found in the area was the handloom weaving. (Smart, 2002) The weaving industry in Pollokshaws started as a side industry, where the weavers started working at home to bring extra income to their household. The number of weavers stared to increase steadily, and by 1782 there were 311 home weavers in Pollokshaw. (Pollokshaws.org.uk, 2019) By 1844, Pollokshaws had already changed into a well-known centre for producing and finishing textiles. The last textile related factory in Pollokshaws closed in 1994, marking the end to the long-established textile industry in the area. (Smart, 2002)

Picture of the Claremount Garments, located on Pleasance Lane that was taken shortly before its closure (Smart, 2002)

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History and Stories

Glasgow and Irvine In the beginning of the 17th century, they would have to cross Pollokshaws in order to get from Glasgow to Irvine, a main port on the Clyde at that time and the other from Rutherglen to Govan. (Pollokshaws.org.uk, 2019) Being in the middle of main routes in trading, the heavy traffic contributed to the development of Pollokshaws’ economy at that time.

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Booklet No.2

Redevelopment of Pollokshaw & Shawlands In the 1960s, redevelopment plans of Pollokshaw and Shawlands were under way, where the old villages were knocked to the ground and replaced with 20 high flats. Pollokshaw was identified as one of the communities for the Comprehensive Redevelopment Areas (CDA) in 1950s. As a result, in the 1960s, redevelopment plans of Pollokshaw and Shawlands were under way, where the old villages were knocked to the ground and replaced with 20 storey high flats. (Smart, 2002) (UK Housing Wiki, 2019) This would eventually result in a density of 100 occupants in an acre, 4 times the recommended density. (Smart, 2002) The development that took place resulted in the relocation of families of smaller than 6 persons into the tower blocks built. While, larger families were relocated into two, three or four storey developments. Despite the large redevelopment work, Shawlands and Pollokshaws has retained its characteristics. Amongst the notifiable landmarks that survived the redevelopment is the clock tower, the burgh hall, Sir John Maxwell school, the parish church, the Round toll and Auldhouse (Smart, 2002)

The round toll house, one of the few surviving tollhouses in Glasgow with the tower blocks in the background (Smart, 2002)

28

Picture showing Shawbridge on the left and Shawhill on the right, a part of the redevelopment plan in the 1960s. (Smart, 2002)


History and Stories

Historic Photo Map Locations

Fig. X: 2019 Figure Ground Map

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Booklet No.2

Historical Photos

1. Left : Picture taken in 1928 of Pollokshaws Road, where it meets with Titwood Road on the left. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : Picture of the exact spot taken in present

2. Left : Picture shows a tram passing by what is now Shawlands Primary School can be seen in the left side of the picture. Picture was taken in the mid-1900s, before the villas on the right of the picture were demolished in the 1960s. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : The gardens of the villas on the right of the previous picture is now where the Shawlands Arcade is located.

3a. Left : On the left of the picture , the building was originally a United Free Church ,that was built around 1900 to 1903. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : The tram station which was in the middle of Shawlands Cross is no longer there.

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History and Stories

3b. Left : The church behind the tram was designed by J.A Campbell and was completed in 1889. The Langside Avenue church merged with it in 1998 and joined to form Shawlands Parish Church. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : buildings around Shawlands Cross did not change much, However, railings and traffic light is now added to these junctions, demarcating specific places for which pedestrians should walk or cross and where cars or buses can stop.

3c. Left : Picture taken around 1919, where the building on the left of the picture housed the Trustee Savings Bank. The Renaissance styled building with fitted sculptured paneeks , friezes an tympana was designed by Neil Campbell Duff. Right : The shelter on the right of the previous picture used to serve the bus and tram passengers, is no longer there in present.

4. Left : Picture of Kilmarnock Road at the crossing of Courrour Roadand Newslandsfield Road. (Malcolm , 2017)

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Booklet No.2

5. Left : In this picture looking towards Minard Road at Pollokshaws Road taken in the 19th century. The machine in the middle of the picture is likely a steam road roller built by Aveling and Porter, a company from Britain known for their prestige steam rollers. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : The tenements at Minard Road is still around in the present days but this junction is busier than compared to the previous picture, with traffic lights ,pedestrian crossings and heavy vehicular traffic.

6. Left : The Shawlands Academy on Pollokshaws Road , built in 1893. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : This building now houses Shawlands Primary School.

7. Left : This picture of Dinmont Road taken around 1910s where its building in this residential area are similar in height and streets laid out in a grid system. (Malcolm , 2017) Right : Dinmont Road in present , where not much has changed to its buildings but cars are seen parked on both sides of the road.

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History and Stories

8. Left : Built between 1915 to 1920, the Malborough House was intended to be a restaurant commissioned by William Kerr , a chef and entrepreneur. In the 1950s, when rock and roll first arrived, the place was turned into a dance hall. It was nearly destroyed in a fire sometime around 1968 before being redeveloped into a club(Malcolm , 2017) Right : The building now houses a bar called The Shed

9. Left: Originally housing the South Shawlands United Free Church, it was completed in 1913 (Malcolm , 2017) Right : The church now known as the South Shawlands Church, is now within linked charge with Shawlands Church located at Shawlands Cross.

10. Left : Langside School located at Tantallon Road, formally known as Albert Road; when multiple burghs merged with Glasgow, streets were renamed to avoid duplicates. The school was opened in 1904 (Malcolm , 2017) Right : The Langside school is now still used as a school, but cars are now seen parked on the side of the road.

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Booklet No.2

LISTED BUILDINGS

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History and Stories

Listed Buildings A Listed, Camphill House.

A listed, Millbrae Crescent Nos. 2-38

B Listed, Shawlands Cross Church and Hall.

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Booklet No.2

Listed Buildings Category A, Langside Hall

A Listed, TSB Bank.

B Listed, Crossmyloof Mansion (

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History and Stories

A Listed, Queen’s Park Church and Hall.

Category A, Joe Coral Snooker Hall.

Category B, Langside Primary School Including Janitor’s Lodge.

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Booklet No.2

Lost Landmarks

Fig. X: 2019 Figure Ground Map

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History and Stories

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Booklet No.2

Stories

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History and Stories

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Booklet No.2

Strength

1. Strong and lively community spirit

2. Surrounded by nature

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History and Stories

Weaknesses

1. Shopping centre at the heart of shawlands is run-down and needs modernising

2. Lack of open development areas

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Booklet No.2

Decleration

Declaration AB 964 Design Studies 5A 2019/20 MArch/Pg Dip Advanced Architectural Design MArch Architectural Design International

Declaration “I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and has been composed by myself. It contains no unacknowledged text and has not been submitted in any previous context. All quotations have been distinguished by quotation marks and all sources of information, text, illustration, tables, images etc. have been specifically acknowledged. I accept that if having signed this Declaration my work should be found at Examination to show evidence of academic dishonesty the work will fail and I will be liable to face the University Senate Discipline Committee.�

Name:

Archibald Prince & Lim Xian Ying, Nadin Mahmoud

Signed: Date:

19/11/2019

Department of Architecture Level 3, James Weir Building 75 Montrose Street Glasgow G1 1XJ

t:+ 44 (0) 141 548 3023/3097/4219

Head of Department: Professor Ashraf Salama

e: architecture@strath.ac.uk

The place of useful learning The University of Strathclyde is a charitable body, registered in Scotland, number SC015263

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History and Stories

References • •

• • • •

• • •

En.wikipedia.org. (2019). Langside. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Langside [Accessed 6 Oct. 2019]. Gerald Blaikie, S. (2019). Langside and Battlefield, Glasgow : Illustrated Guide. [online] Scotcities.com. Available at: http://www.scotcities.com/cathcart/ langside.htm [Accessed 7 Oct. 2019]. Gerald Blaikie, S. (2019). Newlands, Glasgow : Illustrated Guide. [online] Scotcities.com. Available at: http://www.scotcities.com/cathcart/newlands.htm [Accessed 6 Oct. 2019]. Gerald Blaikie, S. (2019). Pollokshaws and Auldhouse : Illustrated Guide. [online] Scotcities.com. Available at: http://www.scotcities.com/cathcart/pollokshaws_ auldhouse.htm [Accessed 6 Oct. 2019]. Gerald Blaikie, S. (2019). Shawlands and Pollokshaws Churches : Origins and History. [online] Scotcities.com. Available at: http://www.scotcities.com/ cathcart/pollokshaws_churches.htm [Accessed 6 Oct. 2019]. Gibson, J. (1980). Pollokshaws: a brief history. Pollokshaw Heritage. Glasgow.gov.uk. (n.d.). Pollokshaws Heritage Trail. [online] Available at: https:// www.glasgow.gov.uk/CHttpHandler.ashx?id=32321&p=0 [Accessed 7 Oct. 2019]. Malcolm, S. (2017). Old shawlands and newlands. United Kingdom: Stenlake Publishing Ltd P3414assignments.traversingbits.co.uk. (2019). 201425812 | P3414 Digital Tools and Skills for Journalism. [online] Available at: http://p3414assignments. traversingbits.co.uk/uncategorized/glasgows-parks-then-and-now/ [Accessed 7 Oct. 2019]. Pollokshaws.org.uk. (2019). 1700’s. [online] Available at: http://www. pollokshaws.org.uk/page_45.html [Accessed 8 Oct. 2019]. Rountree, G. (2010). Pollokshaws through time. Catrine: Stenlake. Scotland-guide.co.uk. (2019). The Scotland Guide: Glasgow: Battle of Langside. [online] Available at: http://www.scotland-guide.co.uk/ALL_AREAS_IN_ SCOTLAND/Glasgow/Areas/Southeast/Battle_of_Langside.htm [Accessed 7 Oct. 2019]. Smart, A. (2002). Villages of Glasgow. Edinburgh: John Donald.

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