16 minute read
It's All Greek to Me: How I Learned to Embrace My Culture
Time to Get Thrifty: Talking with Thrift Club at UF and The HOW BAZAR Co.
Advertisement
Story and Photos by Viviana Moreno
Imagine this: It’s a day out on the town, and you’re stopping at all of the local secondhand shops hoping to claim that perfect, staple black T-shirt that is missing from your wardrobe. After scouring through rack after rack, your fingers land on a hanger holding just what you were looking for — and it is in pristine condition. After a quick inspection of the material, the shirt is safely tucked under your arm as you head to the checkout area. What is that little pep in your step? That’s the glow of a mission accomplished, but it’s also more than that. For most of us, a thrifted T-shirt can be just a simple tee on the surface, but the beauty of thrifting clothing is repurposing garments and breathing new life into its threads. Thrifting a piece of clothing or an item of housewares can prove interesting because the item has a story, an origin of sorts, and the new keeper is part of that history.
For the past few years, there has been a noticeable uptick in the popularity of thrifting and shopping secondhand. Shoppers are increasingly aware of the environmental impacts of fast fashion and also find secondhand shopping to be at a more accessible price point, especially for notable brands that can often be out of reach. In fact, the secondhand market is expected to reach $64 billion in the next five years, 50 The Origins Issue according to thredUp’s 2020 Resale Report, which includes third-party data from Global Data. A variety of factors are driving these numbers — increased environmental awareness, Gen Z setting thrifting trends, less stigma around buying secondhand, increased ability to find unique purchases and more. Resale sites like thredUp, Poshmark and The RealReal are offering thrifting to everyone from the comfort of their device, which is also contributing to increased sales in the resale area. All in all, shoppers, especially younger shoppers, are contributing to a movement set to radically change the fashion industry, even more so than they already have. Locally, organizations, markets and secondhand shops are feeding the thrifting cravings of locals.
In the Gainesville area, there are plenty of places to choose from to shop locally and secondhand. Locations include national establishments like Goodwill and Plato’s Closet and local stores like Sandy's Savvy Chic Resale Boutique and Flashbacks Recycled Fashions. There are even market experiences such as The HOW BAZAR Co., a vintage store offering resale and reworked items. The store hosts monthly markets coined Bazar À La Carte involving local vendors, food and entertainment. Through these stores and markets, a sense of community is embedded in the local secondhand shopping experience, which is yet another perk of choosing to thrift something old and giving it new life.
An organization in Gainesville tapping into the world of thrifting and offering educational resources in the process is Thrift Club at the University of Florida. Founded on the premise of providing “a community for students who share a passion for thrifting, upcycling, repurposing and learning about/advocating for slow fashion” in a casual and approachable setting, this organization encourages community building through sustainability, President Gabrielle Ray said.
“Thrift Club came to life because we noticed a lack of a community for UF students who were passionate about promoting sustainability through secondhand shopping, borrowing, swapping and upcycling,” Laura Long, internal vice president, said.
Aside from advocating for ethically conscious consumer choices, Thrift Club embeds an intersectional lens in its programming. Abby Forsyth, the club treasurer, posits that “environmental justice has often been ignored in past environmental movements,” thus making one of the organization’s goals to “help change the narrative to include all perspectives and begin to understand the relationships between environmental issues and social justice issues.” This blending of issues creates a rich space ripe for learning and growing as individuals and as a community through thrifting.
Originally a series of pop-up shops, The HOW BAZAR Co. now consists of a storefront in the area and is a worker-owned organization with five coowners. Founder Jose Peruyero, Business Operations Specialist Holly McCoy, Handyperson Ryan Akeridge, Creative Director Khary Khalfani and Marketing & Community Outreach Director Laila Fakhoury make up this dynamic team, which developed through a model of sustainability and empowerment of local businesses and creatives. The shop also lends itself to being a community resource in that a goal is to share the worker-owned business model with the community and world “where all of the co-owners have equal ownership of the business and making decisions for the business… because we think that it's very effective and ethical,” Fakhoury said.
Working against the detrimental environmental impacts of the fashion industry, The HOW BAZAR Co. remodels and reworks clothing that is considered undesirable in an effort to upcycle them for resale, thus closing the cycle to landfill. “For us, we still see the beauty in all of those things, and especially through the fact that reusing and repurposing and recycling is something that makes things even more beautiful because of sustainability and the ethics behind repurposing,” Fakhoury said. The monthly market also works to uplift community artists and vendors. It is held on the side of the storefront and is meant to “create an ecosystem of shoppers and sellers who can support each other in a very nurturing space.”
Whether someone chooses to shop secondhand because it’s trendy or because of a goal to live more sustainably, it is a powerful force providing new opportunities for communities, the fashion industry and individuals alike. The interconnected fabric of secondhand shopping, whether online or locally in person, weaves a story of ethical consciousness, a changing industry and the wonderful nature of adding a new chapter to something — transforming it from old to new once again.
The Origins Issue 51
Photos by Lindsey Boyett
Women Taking Control: Birth Control Options and Their Histories
Story by Taylor Lockett
Margaret Sanger saw many unplanned families as a nurse during the early 1900s. The Comstock laws, which went into effect in the late 1800s, made it illegal to distribute information about birth control in the United States.
According to “Margaret Sanger, Taking a Stand for Birth Control” by Ingrid Mundt, Sanger spoke out against the laws when she published a monthly magazine, The Woman Rebel, and a pamphlet, Family Limitation. Her work signified the beginning of the birth control movement in the United States.
In 1965, the Supreme Court ruled that it was against a person’s constitutional right to privacy to restrict access to birth control. Some attributed the United States’ sexual revolution to the decision of the Griswold v. Connecticut case as “the pill” became a new option for women, according to Beth Bailey in “Prescribing the Pill.” Birth control has evolved since the 1900s, and women today have numerous options when it comes to taking control of their sexual health. While the pill continues to be used by a majority of women, other options include, but are not limited to, the ring, shot, implant or intrauterine device (IUD).
The Pill
The pill is the most accessible and common form of birth control, according to Dr. Sheyna Carroccio of Comprehensive Women’s Health, Gainesville, who began her career over 17 years ago.
“Probably 50% to 60% of the young women I see are on oral birth control pills,” Carroccio said. The pill works by preventing ovulation and keeping fertilization from occurring during sex. According to Planned Parenthood, two kinds of birth control pills exist. There are progestin pills and there are combination pills that include both estrogen and progestin. Planned Parenthood reports that the pill has proven to be 91% effective when taking into account user error. If a woman forgets to take the pills, loses the pack or forgets to refill a prescription, she could become pregnant.
52 The Origins Issue It’s also important to remember that certain medications, vomiting or diarrhea could interfere with the pill’s effectiveness. Planned Parenthood provides a list of medications that may prevent the pill from doing its job, but asking a doctor could also be beneficial. The pill, along with the other hormonal birth controls listed, does not protect against sexually transmitted diseases (STDs). Only condoms do that.
The Ring
The NuvaRing operates in a way similar to a birth control pill, but instead it is a flexible ring that is placed inside the vagina. The body then absorbs the hormones through the vaginal lining.
“It’s a once-a-month birth control which is really great for my busy, college-aged women,” Carroccio said.
The ring remains in the body for three weeks, and then the week that it is removed is the week the user will begin to menstruate. Planned Parenthood reports the ring to be 91% effective, again due to user error. Users must remember to replace the ring on time to keep it working most efficiently. Planned Parenthood suggests adding replacement days to calendars, getting a partner or friend to help remind you and storing the ring at room temperature away from sunlight for up to four months. If the ring isn’t going to be used before four months, then it’s good to keep it in the refrigerator.
The Shot
The Depo-Provera shot contains progestin that is administered into the arm every three months. According to Dr. Carroccio, the shot may cause some weight gain or breakthrough bleeding.
“I have a lot of women who love it, and they come in every three months and get their shot,” Carroccio said.
The Depo-Provera shot ranks as 94% effective, according to Planned Parenthood. The progestin in the shot keeps the body from ovulating, and without an egg, pregnancy is improbable. If the shot is administered within the first seven days after the start of a period, then the user is protected from pregnancy right away. If the shot is not given within that time frame, then users should wait a week after getting their first shot and use another form of birth control, like condoms, in the meantime.
Like the ring and the pill, keeping up with scheduling a shot every 12 to 13 weeks is crucial to maintain the efficacy.
The IUD and the implant are among the most effective forms of birth control, with Planned Parenthood reporting each to be 99% effective. IUD stands for intrauterine device, a flexible piece of plastic shaped like a “T” that is inserted into the vagina.
The copper IUD, Paragard, protects from pregnancy for up to 12 years and is a nonhormonal form of birth control. Mirena, Kyleena, Liletta and Skyla use the hormone progestin to stop ovulation. Mirena and Liletta work for up to seven years, Kyleena works for up to five, and Skyla for up to three. The implant, Nexplanon, is a thin, matchstick rod that is flexible. The rod is placed under the skin of the arm and releases hormones into the body to prevent pregnancy. According to Nexplanon, the implant lasts for up to three years.
“These are all under the category of what’s called LARCs – long-acting reversible contraception,” said Carroccio. “Those are things that we place in the office, and the patient has to come back to get it out.” Once these items have been placed in the body, they offer long-term protection without the daily upkeep of other options.
According to Dr. Carroccio, birth control is safe and effective. Certain underlying conditions like cancers or blood clotting disease may affect what options doctors suggest. Some women react poorly to birth control pills with breast tenderness or nausea. In those cases, nonhormonal options may be best.
“There’s always something new coming out,” Carroccio said.
Birth control has evolved over the last several decades, and women now have numerous options that help them control their fertility, sexuality and lives.
The Origins Issue 53
Brushstrokes Through Time
Story and Photos by Sarah Correa-Dibar
It’s come to the point where an artist can duct tape a banana to a wall in Art Basel, Miami, sell it for $120,000, and go viral on every social media platform. One thing is for sure — this yellow fruit made people wonder what art is and who makes the rules.
Art doesn’t have the Ten Commandments for what an artist needs to abide by or an “Art Fame for Dummies” book. There are no wrongs or rights in art, and if there were, more than half of the eras would have never existed.
The drawings scribbled on the walls of the caves in the 20th Century Fox film “Ice Age” are classified as prehistoric art, which lasted from 40,000 to 4,000 b.c. This art form was the first to be documented, but it was the only way to document history then, according to independent scholar Laura Anne Tedesco’s “Introduction to Prehistoric Art, 20,000–8000 B.C.” essay published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The first step out of day-to-day communication into a more creative form of expression was thanks to the Greeks and Romans. This comes as no surprise, as the culture is still prevalent in various aspects of today’s society — languages, democracy, architecture, theater and art. The art produced during this era is referred to as classical art. Most known for their idealized version of man, — the Greek gods and goddesses — temples for the deities were constructed.
Flash forward to modern times when important monuments and buildings like the Obelisk of Buenos Aires or the Capitol Building in Washington, D.C., were made in the classical style, which is the pointed top and the pillars, according to art historian Marilyn Stokstad and art history professor and curator Michael Cothren in the fourth edition of "Art History."
Classical art is a phrase tossed around very lightly, usually thought of as any centuries-old art. Ashley Townsend, artist and founder of Artists Don’t School, believes that classical art will always be valued because the older it is, the more respected it is — just like an expensive bottle of red wine.
“Classical art to me is the era that is no longer our era,” said Townsend. There is a fine line between “classical” and “classic,” but they are used interchangeably, which is completely OK in conversation, yet can be misleading in a historical context.
The Romans were more realistic in their style of sculptures and paintings, but idealization remained. The faces remained expressionless, and even children and infants had toned bodies and older faces, like those of a middleaged person. This period’s art is also referred to as GrecoRoman, according to Stokstad and Cothren.
Daniel Stepp, a fine arts professor at the University of Florida, has been professionally painting for 20 years and teaching for about 16. When he hears someone focuses on classical art, he presumes they are talking about Greco-Roman art or the Renaissance period.
“But there will always be artists referencing classical arts,” said Stepp, when speaking of how the teachings of the French Academy of Art in the 19th century were based on classical art.
The Renaissance era was a turning point in art because it showed different priorities. Paintings and sculptures were becoming more realistic but were also focusing on science and intellect, not just muscles and glory like in the GrecoRoman period, according to Stokstad and Cothren.
This is evident by looking at Leonardo da Vinci’s work. During the 14th century, da Vinci was more than a painter. He was an inventor and a man of physics. For example, he conceptualized the parachute and helicopter. In his paintings, he connected science to art.
The “Big Three” during this time were Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo — who painted the Sistine Chapel and was considered godly due to his creations and teachings — and Raphael — who was known for his representations of Mary, or “Madonnas,” and holy family paintings — made large-scale works in the Vatican alongside Michelangelo’s works.
Stepp said classical art will always revolve around Christianity and how Jesus’ depiction will always change according to the times. Every era’s version of Jesus is a representation of the style of any decade, which is a great example of how art imitates culture.
“In the Greco-Roman period, Jesus was portrayed as Apollo,” said Stepp. “But if you look at paintings from the 1970s, he has a very hippie look.”
Art has always imitated life. The Renaissance was about expanding everyone’s minds and its artists represented that in their paintings or sculptures by giving an importance to the new discoveries of the sciences and philosophy.
On the other hand, Stepp also believes that art has overlooked many things. Women, for example, have been cut out of the narrative for so long because there weren’t many female artists.
“The evolution of art is fascinating,” said Townsend. “To me, the transition of eras is just old styles being remade in new ways.”
Artists have gotten inspiration from their predecessors and interpreted old ideas into their own so their generation will understand. But there are exceptions to that transition, like the French impressionist era. Edgard Degas, Paul Cézanne and Henri Matisse. This period rejected the studio model and focused more on landscapes and natural lighting. It was rejected by many because it was not understood at first, to the point where people became enraged that they called themselves artists without following any rules. This allowed people to self-identify as artists and teach themselves.
Townsend named her brand Artists Don’t School, despite it being a clothing line, because its meaning related to periods like the French impressionist period where artists made their own rules instead of following society’s idea of creative success.
“I want to remove the stigma of the comparison of a painter versus a doctor,” said Townsend. “I believe if you find your purpose, you must chase it even if it’s not the status quo.”
Stepp also believes that being an artist is something of a self-proclamation. Some people have an MFA or a bachelor’s degree, and some are self-taught, but if they have the drive to create, they are artists.
“It’s weird because it’s not like saying you’re an engineer — you can’t just say that,” said Stepp. “It’s like saying, ‘I’m a writer’ because you are writing. You can be writing a book or you could be pursuing a college degree in journalism.” Although art is not a perfect depiction of the names and dates and speeches listed in high school textbooks, it does give meaning to our ancestry and our origins. If there’s one thing generations have learned about art, it is that a still life of bananas is as significant as a banana duct taped to a wall.
Claude Monet was responsible for opening up a floodgate that inspired Pierre-August Renoir, Édouard Manet,
54 The Origins Issue The Origins Issue 55
