ISSUE 36 // January 2020
Hi everyone!
Welcome to the first edition of the semester and new year: beauty and style! We hope you all had a great break, and are ready for this year. I was really excited to put this edition together because of how diverse the content is. We have fashion and styles from so many different cultures, and it’s always so nice to be able to share our roots through this theme. With beauty and style, there are always so many angles to look at and hopefully through this edition, you can take away some new fashion tips or ideas on cultural identity. We hope you enjoy this edition as much as we enjoyed putting it together! As always, feel free to reach out to us for ideas, suggestions, writers applications, or just to say hi at cooglife@thedailycougar.com.
Love, Ambarina Zenab
EDITORIAL
LAYOUT AND EDITING
Ambarina Zenab, Executive Editor cooglife@thedailycougar.com
COVER & GRAPHICS
JIselle Santos, Creative Director
SOCIAL MEDIA
cooglife
@cooglifemag
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3 COOGLIFE // JANUARY 2020 January 2020 4 Five Ways to Style a Scrunchie 6 Traditional “Femininity” in Men 8 Fashion and Culture: Pakistan 10 How to Suit Up — The Right Way 13 Pakistan cont. 14 90s Bollywood Fashion Recreation 22 A DIY String Light Photo Series
Five ways to style a scrunchie
Written by Sydney Rose | Photographs by Donna Keeya
Whether you’re fixing a bad hair day or trying to channel your inner VSCO girl, scrunchies have made a style comeback, and they’re here to stay for the new decade.
After being invented in the 1960’s and popularized by pop culture figures like Madonna in the 80’s and 90’s, the scrunchie is finding its way in the hair of the 21st century. There are many different patterns or designs for scrunchies, and sometimes you’ll have the urge to wear one, but you don’t know how. Well, here we have five different ways you can style that cute scrunchie you just know will pair well with your outfit of the day.
Ponytail
This is practically the main hairstyle a scrunchie was intended for. It’s great to keep your hair out of your face and show off the scrunchie as a nice accessory.
Model: Sydney Rose
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Title photo from Pexels
Half up Half down
This is a style that gives someone the luxury of keeping some amount of hair out of their face as well as having some hair to frame their face at the same time. I’m a big fan of this look when I don’t feel like spending too much time on my hair, and a cute scrunchie is the perfect way to tie it all together.
Braided Back
As a variation of the half up half down style, this way of doing your hair adds a little more detail before meeting with the scrunchie to tie it all together.
Low Bun
A hairstyle as old as time, the most efficient looking way to use this scrunchie is to tie your hair back into a twisted bun at the nape of your neck. The good thing about the scrunchie is it holds everything together and gives a professional look at the same time.
Side Braid
One way to add a little texture to your hair and style it is a braid. I always felt awkward with a thin black hair tie at the end of my braid, so a scrunchie is a quick fix to this problem.
There are many uses for this chosen hair accessory that don’t even involve your hair. Many people chose to just sport their scrunchie on their wrists or use it alternatively for holding writing utensils together. There will always be a use for scrunchies one way or another and an opportunity for you to show off any scrunchies you’ve been holding on to.
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by Anna
It’s no secret that there’s a double standard when it comes to gender norms. We’ve all heard the phrase, “you kick like a girl”, that boys would say to each other on the playground, and we’ve witnessed the teasing that occurred when a boy wore pink.
We see this example on TV, like in “Modern Family”, with Manny’s appreciation of essential oils, candles, and cosmetics being the butt of jokes. We see it in every movie where a guy in a dress is a whole entire joke by itself. We saw that femininity was a joke and that it wasn’t a good thing for a guy to do.
However, in the show “Kim Possible” the heroine has traditionally masculine traits such as physical strength and fighting skills, but those traits are never the butt of jokes. In fact, physically strong women characters are often held up on pedestals. Girls can do traditionally
masculine things, but guys can’t do feminine things without the risk of ridicule. These TV shows are just a few examples, but this idea is displayed in many examples of media.
If, to put it crudely, it's okay for a girl to do guy things but not a guy to do girl things, this sends a message of women being inferior. A girl who sheds her femininity to be a badass is great, but a guy who sheds masculinity to wear makeup is a joke. The message is very clear and very harmful.
If women are seen as inferior, that allows for society to treat women badly, because if they’re inferior, who cares? This sexist mindset is subconscious most of the time, but still very harmful. And because society shows us that men don’t want to be like a woman, it can lead to overcompensation in their masculinity. If someone
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Traditional “femininity” is discouraged in men, but it shouldn’t be
Written
Baker | Photo Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
This toxic masculinity that is taught from childhood can affect men’s emotional maturity. Boys are often told not to cry as kids, while girls often get a pass, since emotion is seen as feminine. Insults like “don’t be such a girl” can often be used against a crying child. According to psychotherapist Lena Aburdene Derhally, not giving a boy a place to express their emotions can lead to them as men having “the inability to understand and process their feelings.” Not understanding their emotions can lead to men using “unhealthy coping mechanisms”, such as drinking and violence.
Additionally, men may lean on the women they date, who end up doing a lot of emotional labor in the relationship. Men might even treat women like their therapist, because they don’t know how to healthily express emotion. Putting so much pressure on one person in the relationship is certainly unhealthy.
It’s clear that this double standard is bad. But the good
news is that it’s getting better.
Stores like Target stopped labelling their toy sections as boy’s and girl’s, and men are encouraged to talk more about their emotions alongside with therapy getting destigmatized. Clearly, “femininity” in men is getting more normalized.
But there is still work to be done. Here’s one thing you can do.
If you have a son, or if you ever do, let him do supposedly “feminine” things. Let him cry and tell him it’s okay to cry. Ask about his emotions. Easy enough? Okay buy him a doll. Teach him a skincare routine. Makeup even. Sure you can buy him toy trucks and the like but include so-called “girl’s stuff” in that lineup. See what he likes and let him have it. You might think that he won’t like it, but many boys probably don’t even know it's an option. Boys need to be taught that there’s nothing wrong with “girl” stuff, and if they realize that, they might respect girls more.
It might be hard to unlearn our gender biases, but to end sexism, gender norms also need to end.
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Fashion and culture: Two Weeks in Pakistan
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Story and Photos by Rubab Ali
Pakistan is known for three things: fashion, food, and their scenic views. This winter break, I got the opportunity to visit the breathtaking Karachi, Pakistan. Karachi is a city with many spectacular features. As every tourist says, the food is unbelievably delicious, the sunsets and sunrises at seaview are breathtakingly beautiful, and the design district brings fashion to a whole new level. The intricate details of the traditional Pakistani “Shalwar kameez” is what makes it stand out from other cultures. From the fabrics to the hand embroidery, every piece is unique and showcases why it is a staple piece in Pakistani culture.
Continued on page
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How to suit up — the right way
A guide to suit shopping and looking your best in a professional fit.
Written by Tyler Campbell | Photos courtesy of Adobe Stock
The right suit will help you to stand up to whatever is thrown your way during the daily grind. While you can order a suit online and adjust certain aspects at a later time, it can get fairly pricey. I'd recommend searching the net to get an idea of what you are looking for, and then going to a high-end retailer. Keep in mind that where you go depends on your budget. When going to a retailer, you can work with a professional to determine what colors and styles look best on you. If possible, bring an opinionated friend along for the ride. This way, you can avoid being sold on a lie. Regardless, picking the correct suit can be a time-consuming ordeal, so be sure not to be in a hurry. Here are a few tips to help you choose your fit.
Decide on a Color
Choosing the proper color depends on what you are buying the suit for. If you are an everyday suit wearer, then it solely depends on your preference. If this is the case, then you can be as creative as can be. If you are going to a wedding or funeral, then go black or navy. If you plan to wear it several times a week to work, then go for a dark color.
Things to Know
When purchasing a suit, there are a few things that you must be aware of before entering a store. This is especially true if you wish to shop online. You must be familiar with your sizes. Suits are not a one-size-fits-all
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type of clothing. If your suit doesn't fit you correctly, then your suit is wearing you. Let’s be real, this is not the way that you want to present yourself. An expensive suit will not make up for a sloppy fit. You will likely need to try on several suits before making a purchase, even when you know all of your sizes. Nonetheless, here are the specific areas that you should focus on; from top to bottom:
Shoulder Size
Adjusting the shoulders of a jacket after purchase is impractical and very expensive, so get it right from the beginning.
Chest Size
A good rule of thumb is if you can fit two fists in between your chest and the jacket, then it’s far too big. However, be sure it isn't too tight either.
Suit Jacket Length
The jacket should more or less cover your posterior.
Suit Jacket Sleeve
To test this, you should place your arms at your
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side. The sleeve should be around your wrist, with about a quarter to half an inch of room to show your shirt cuff. However, sleeve length is a relatively simple and inexpensive adjustment.
Waist Size
Again, your pants cannot fit too loosely or too tight. This can also be slightly adjusted, but aim to get it right. Pants Length: The pants need to be an appropriate length and should not fold above your shoes.
Material
In truth, there is enough material on materials to write an entirely separate article. However, for the purpose of this article, we will focus on the best quality material for a suit. In our case, wool is the best choice. If possible, you want to wrap yourself in 100 percent wool. You will likely come across several wool blends, which is less expensive but lower quality. You will also see super wools, that typically range from 80 to 160. This refers to the wool fiber. There are super wools that go up to 250, but they can get quite costly. Super 100 to 140 is a solid sweet spot. There are also different types of wool, such as Virgin, Worsted, and Merino. Honestly, it can get extensive, but Worsted is the most common.
Other Notable Features
Suit Buttons
There are jackets with buttons from one to five. Stick to two or three.
Suit Lapels
There are three types of lapels: Notch, Peak, and Shawl. I would recommend Notch, but Peak lapels have an elegant look to them. Shawls are for more formal gatherings.
Jacket Pockets
Some jacket pockets are sewn in, which is called a patch pocket. Others have a flap. Go with the flap, if possible.
Jacket Vents
These are the slits on the back of the jacket. They range from zero to two. Avoid the no vent jackets; they are too old school. Double vents are the classiest, but singles are the most common.
Picking the proper shoes, tie, shirt, and belt is another essential factor. However, I will trust you to take care of that part on your own. Suits are an integral part of every man's wardrobe. Hopefully, this guide should be a great starting point for making a purchase. Now, Suit Up!
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Continued from page 9
Designing an outfit in Pakistan is an experience that is unforgettable. From choosing the fabric at the Rabi Centre to strutting along the bazaars in Sudder, I was able to customize the different laces, buttons, and embellishments to complete the outfit. Every inch of the traditional gown can be handpicked, which is what makes this experience one of a kind to many. During the wedding season, brides from abroad travel to Pakistan to design their bridal gowns from scratch. Every single detail, down to the color of thread that is used for the embroidery, is chosen by the bride for the fraction of the price. Every individual feature used to create a traditional ensemble has been handcrafted by local Pakistanis. This is one of the reasons I wear these clothes with pride. It was made by people who genuinely understand and care for every aspect of our unique culture.
After personalizing the outfit, another essential part of the attire is the jewelry. Pakistanis are known to showcase extravagant gold. Individuals head over to Tariq Road to select jhumkey (earrings), mala’s (necklaces), teeka (headpieces), and chooriyan (bangles). These four accessories complete the full Pakistani traditional look.
Karachi, Pakistan holds many phenomena, but the design district has definitely been one to capture the heart. Shopping in Karachi has been one of the most special experiences in my life because every single passing moment is meaningful and sentimental. Immersing yourself in your own culture can be difficult but when the culture is this lively and colorful, it makes it well worth it.
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90s Bollywood film and fashion: a recreation lookbook
I have grown up watching Bollywood films with my family, and some of the most classic films of the genre can be attributed to the 90s. There are so many different films from the 90s, but in my opinion, the two most famous and well known are “Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (DDLJ)”, and “Kuch Kuch Hota Hai”. Both films stars Kajol and Shah Rukh Khan, who were often the main romantic couples of the 90s films, are the main characters of these films as well. As a kid, I always loved Kajol as an actress, and I paid attention to her style of dress and acting in her films.
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Writing and Photography by Ambarina Zenab
Since I was already a fan of these films and their actresses, I wanted to explore the fashion world surrounding the 90s eras. From “DDLJ” and “Kuch Kuch Hota Hai”, I noticed that the film fashion from this era took more into the westernized fashion looks. Kajol rocked everything from mom jeans, jean jackets, scrunchies, and headbands, overalls, athletic and skirts. If there were traditional indian outfits present, they were either bare minimum and simple, or fully traditional decked out wedding outfits.
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Kajol and Shah Rukh Khan in DDLJ| Kahol wears a dress with a white undershirt
Kajol and Shah Rukh Khan in Kuch Kuch Hota Hai| Kahol wears a jean jacket on a simple athletic t-shirt
Taking inspiration from these Kajol 90s looks, I decided to recreate a 90s Bollywood fashion shoot.
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|
Kajol in DDLJ
Outf t with high waisted jeans
Kajol in Kuch Kuch Hota Hai | Broad headband look
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Jean jackets and headband look taking inspiration from Kajol’s character Anjali from Kuch Kuch Hota Hai
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Colorful vintage bomber jacket, high waisted jeans, and the high ponytail take inspiration from Kajol in DDLJ
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Models: Bisma Noor & Sana Khan (Left to Right)
A DIY string light photo series
Photography and Writing by Ambarina Zenab
Model: Daniela Machado
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Putting together string light photo shoots is one of my favorite things, if you couldn’t already tell from our last edition. String lights always have a warm, cozy feel to an image, and are a very simple, yet creative tool to brighten up a shoot.
We did a string light shoot in my on-campus apartment. Using christmas lights up on a wall, a battery-operated tail of string lights, and a few basic props, I was able to put together this whole portrait series. Check out the full tutorial and behind the scenes video on CoogTV’s website!
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Using a globe and book with the battery string lights are a good prop to create interesting images
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Placing the stringlights in hair like a headband are another way to change up the shoot
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South Asian cultural duality: identity through fashion
Growing up South Asian in America heavily influences identity. Our roots are connected to our ethnic backgrounds, while also still being American at the same time. To manifest this duality, I put together a photo series. In nature and city settings, I attempted to create a shoot using traditional ethnic South Asian clothing with American clothes as contrast.
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Writing and photos by Ambarina Zenab
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Model: Uroosa Iqbal
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Decor images courtesy of Pexels