Beyond Houston: A Journey through Lebanon

Writing and photos by Ambarina Hasta

This may be the Welcome to Houston edition, but a huge part of being a Houstonian is our connection to diversity and cultures from around the world. Here at UH, Learning Abroad is always there to promote cross cultural interaction and studying abroad all over the globe. This summer, I attended an intensive Arabic program at the American University of Beirut, in Lebanon. AUB is one of the top tier accredited universities in the whole region, and the Center for Arab and Middle Eastern Studies summer Arabic program is the top program recommended even by the Middle Eastern Studies department here at UH. A lot of people had a lot things to say when I chose Lebanon over other programs for Arabic. According to the US government, Lebanon is labeled as a Level 3 country, with areas within the country that were labeled as Level 4. I even had to fill out a proposal and safety checklist to Learning Abroad, and if it wasn’t approved for any reason, I would have not been able to attend this program for credit if I had still chosen to go on my own accord.

In the news and media, all we hear about in regards to the Middle East is the warfare, the underdevelopment, the problems, etc. More often than not, the way these aspects are even covered in media are often negative and misrepresentative. As a Middle Eastern Studies major here at UH, it has really opened my eyes to the socio-politics of the region, which are so much deeper than the surface level portrayal that it has through mainstream media. Furthermore, traveling to these places really shows you that hands on. A goal through my career path is to provide accurate representation for current affairs and misrepresented populations and minorities through the pursual of photojournalism in the Middle East. Beyond all the existing conflict, there is a lot of deep rooted history, culture, religion, and beauty that tends to be forgotten. Alongside better coverage of these conflict related issues, I want to be able to shed light on this cultural component as well.

Misconceptions, Concerns, and Now You Know: An Explanation

1. Th e notion that Lebanon is a conservative country is entirely false. There are night clubs and bars all over Beirut, let alone the rest of the country as well. Women don’t have to wear hijab, and in fact they can dress however they’d like. While of course there are more conservative and religious regions that exist in the nation especially in terms of locations home to mosques and shrines, perhaps there is more modesty, but again it’s not to the same extent that we tend to associate conservatism with.

2. You can get around the country for the most part without having a solid base in Arabic. Enough people speak English well enough to communicate, and if that’s not an option, French works too. I came to Lebanon to learn Arabic and it’s a great place to learn it, but in most areas and regions, if you don’t know the language, you will still be able to get by. I in fact struggled with practicing and speaking Arabic because of Lebanese were so inclined to speak with us in English and to show that they knew it well and fluently.

3. L ebanon is not entirely a Muslim country even though it’s in the Middle East. There are 18 sects within Lebanon making it a very diverse nation in terms of population. There is quite a bit of Maronite Christian and Druze influence just to name a few. Even within the Muslim population there are multiple sects such as the Shia and Sunnis, and in regions of South Lebanon and the Beqaa, there is quite a bit of heavy Shia influence. In terms of diversity, my time in Lebanon taught me that people here coexist to an extent, yet at the same time, identity plays a major role in political affiliation. Lebanese politics themselves post-Civil War and the assassination of Hariri were founded on pillars of sectarianism due to this identity and concept of alliances, and since I’m not here writing a dissertation and am just giving an outlook of my trip and some things that I have learned here, I will leave it at that. My point is, while religious and culturally diversity is present in Lebanon, there is a lot of regional and political divide that can be argued is a large hinderance to national unity.

4. Hezbollah is not out to get you, and going to places like South Lebanon and regions of the Beqaa Valley that are pro-Hezbollah are not necessarily unsafe. I’m not saying to take risks you’re not comfortable with, but I am saying that apart from the US Travel Advisory recommending avoiding borders with Israel and Syria, a lot of other places are just fine. Some of the best spots in the South and East in terms of ruins and nature happen to have populations that are in support of the organization. Hezbollah is labeled as a terrorist organization by the American government, but a lot of that has to do more with their political agenda that involves heavy Iranian influence, anti-Israeli sentiments, and pro-Assad and anti-rebel motives. Essentially, anything and everything America isn’t for. They aren’t wandering around Lebanon and holding terrorist bases and planning attacks. Yes, there happen to be several regions that support Hezbollah and the Amal party (another Shia based political group in Lebanon), as you can see the flags and political iconography all over highways, roads, and billboards and signs. Yet beyond that, there isn’t really a confrontational stance or interaction with the parties. As mentioned before, identity plays a big role in political support, and a lot of these regions hold this affiliation due to their religious population and alliances.

5. C ensorship is not a part of Lebanese media and society. Literally throughout the entire country are walls covered in graffiti and statements and political influences scattered everywhere. It is highly recommended that you don’t speak politics with people you don’t know very well though, for common sense reasons and alongside being a foreigner, it would not be in your benefit to get in awkward situations you could easily have avoided. Lebanese taxi drivers do love to give their hot take on their country’s government, but you’re not obliged to give your own.

6. L ebanon is not at war, and while the nation went through the Civil War from from 19751990, it is no longer in that phase. Any country that goes through a long period of war will take years of recovery and growth, and the country has developed so much since then. There are remnants from the war that exist in terms of reconstruction and society, and quite a bit of political divide that is also still present, but that is still the case for a lot of recovering nations as well.

After spending nearly two months in Lebanon and actually learning about the country myself while being there, I would like to say that there is so much more beyond the mainstream portrayal of the country. I felt so safe outside of the AUB campus and even outside of Beirut to some of the more underrated and further out cities in the country. While my main goal of being in the country was to learn the Arabic language, I feel like I gained so much more than that. Apart from gaining a very solid foundation into formal Arabic and a good base into spoken dialect for confidence in communicating, I learned so much more about identity, history, and politics from Lebanon. This has really influenced a lot of themes I would like to pursue as research in the future, and I am very grateful I had this opportunity.

Through this photo series, I hope that you can get an insight into my time in Lebanon, and learn something new.

I spent a big majority of my time in Beirut- the big city of Lebanon. Beirut has a mix of everything, but it’s very urban and populated.

AUB was in the region of Hamra, which was historically known as the city of coffee shops and intellectual gatherings and discussions on the world and philosophy pre-Civil War. It was also a center of theatre and film. Today, Hamra is more or less an urban hub. There are a few art museums and cultural centers here to check out, and I did enjoy them quite a bit.

Also in Beirut is the ocean walkway known as the “cornishe” in Arabic. It’s a beautiful view to watch the sunset, and after dark it’s still a lively spot for families and friends to walk around and spend time at.

A major spot in Beirut is Bourj Hammoud, which is the Armenian quarter of the city. Here, there is a lot of heavy Armenian influence in terms of religion, culture, architecture, and living. When Armenians immigrated due to the genocide, they brought pieces of their identity here and this region has become known as little Armenia. Some of the best sweets, spices, and gift shops are here.

Dowtown Beirut has mixed opinions amongst the Lebanese. There is a mix between modernity and Lebanese heritage.Post-civil war rebuilding involved a private company known as Solidere. Yet in terms of this process, they removed a lot of Lebanese and ancient heritage for modernization, and it can be argued that the buildings and housing they created was not created in mind for the average Lebanese; instead for outside investment and influence. This is a hot topic in Lebanon and it continues to be. Some main sites in downtown are the Mohammad al Amin Mosque, the Martyr’s Square Statue. There are a few remaining preserved ruins and buildings from the civil war era, but a lot of the region has been shifted to a modern scene.

Up in the north is the city of Jounieh. The statue of Mary, known as Our Lady of Lebanon is here and is a major landmark. This is an example of the influence of Maronite Christians.

Also up north is the city of Byblos. The ruins of a castle lie here, and there is a port for boats by the sea. There is a traditional shopping center known as a souk that goes throughout the city.

Further north is the city of Batroun. It’s a smaller area next to the ocean as well. The Phoenician Wall lies here, and there is quite a bit of Christian influence as well. Near the water and the wall is a small church that overlooks the sea, and it’s believed that there were miracles that had taken place here.

Tripoli is one of the northernmost cities of Lebanon. It’s well known for it’s souks and it’s cultural hub and sweets. This was one of the cities with more heavy Sunni influence, and was rather more conservative than a lot of other places we went and visited. Coming to Tripoli felt like a whole other world from Beirut with all the traditional and cultural environments and architecture.

South Lebanon is home to various cities and historical sites. Saida, known as Sidon hold the famous sea castle and within the souks, a traditional shopping center built into the city is a historical palace. Saida has a lot of Sunni Muslim influence.

Near Saidon is the city of Maghdoucheh. There is heavy Maronite Christian influence here. At the top of the statue of Mary and her baby is the view below of the church on one end, and the ocean and city on the other. On the side of the sea are the Palestinian refugee camps.

Further south is the tiny village of Adloun which overlooks the major city of Sur, also known as Tyre. Adloun holds a shrine of a prophet known as Sari. This little shrine is above the ocean and farmlands, and the shrine holds common Shia influence and architecture. Shrines and mosques are a major part Shia influences as the preservation and respect to major religious figures is a big part of the religion.

Tyre is home to UNESCO World Heritage ruins as well as beautiful, clean beaches. There is quite a bit of Shia influence here, and there is also a wonderful Christian neighborhood within this city as well.

Zahle was a small town we passed on our way to Baalbek in the Beqaa valley. One of the major parts of Arab culture and cuisine is hospitality, and the owner of this shop treated all of us to traditional Arabic coffee. It was very strong and it is honestly one of my favorite things I’ve had during these two months.

Towards the southwest is the palace of Beittedine. This palace was originally built during the Shihab empire, but also became a building important to the Ottomans, and later a French Mandate. Nearby is the city of Deir-al-Qamar. The Chouf region is home to the Lebanese cedar forest as well.

Towards the east is the Beqaa Valley, known for agricultural lands, hills, and old Roman ruins. The Rachaya Alwadi region is a small village-like city that overlooks the fields and the hills. This is close to the mountain range dividing the Syrian border, and it can be seen in the distance. Also in this city is the Rachaya Citadel, which is a castle and fortress. In terms of the Lebanese independence movement, the national leaders were arrested and imprisoned here by the French, and their release on November 22nd marks the Lebanese independence day.

Also in the Beqaa is the city of Anjar. Here lie the old Ottoman empire ruins, and these happen to be some of the oldest and well preserved ones in the country. Tanayel Lake is a beautiful region with agricultural fields, a beautiful walkway, and Christian influence. By the lake is a statue of Mary, and in this little region is a monastery and church as well.

Baalbek is a major historical site for ruins in the Beqaa. It was known as Helipolis during the Greek and Roman era, and the ruins here are so large and intact, and are very well preserved. Some compare its splendor even to Petra in Jordan. There is also a beautiful underrated Shia shrine and mosque within walking distance in Baalbek as well. This is the resting place of Sayeda Khawla, the daughter of Imam Hussain (the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad and a revered saint and leader for Shias), and this site has a lot of rich and beautiful Muslim heritage and history. From the architecture and the inside design, as well as the historical significance, this was truly one of my favorite spots. The tree in this shrine was planted by Imam Zainul Abideen, the son of Imam Hussain and the uncle of Sayeda Khawla to mark her grave spot over 1400 years ago when she died.

As a Shia myself and knowing how undermined my religion and culture is through both academia and media representation, coming a site like this was very refreshing and it made me so happy. There happens to be a trend with the domes and the structures of shrines in terms of Shiite architecture, which I noticed from traveling to places like this in Iraq and seeing other examples like Adloun. Lebanon is a beautiful country with rich cultural, religious, and historical heritage. Beyond the misconceptions and the concerns associated with travel to the region, there is so much to learn and see. I truly appreciated and valued my time abroad.

Continued from page 11 tea flavor, sweetness, the quality and taste of the tapioca, and ice/other. All of these locations are within Houston’s Chinatown- a wonderful cultural hub to visit for great food, culture, and dessert. If you’re a fan of boba and need an expert opinion or need a new place to try out, take a look at this list of recommendations from Haaniya and her friends’ boba run!

Top picks: Tied for 1st

1. Tea Top: Not a fan of ordering on the spot? Tea Top has a variety of flavored teas and they even let you sample!

2. Gong Cha: an international tea chain, so you already know it’s quality! The tapioca here is not too hard or squishy, and the tea flavors are always spot on.

3. Ding Tea: one of the newer bubble tea spots, and it has quite a lot of fans.

4. 7 Leaves a. “I personally enjoyed 7 Leaves. The environment and customer service is amazing. There are a variety of choices so there’s a drink for everyone. Their menu is different and unique, compared to other places. Their Assam milk tea is my all time favorite. Their house coffee is amazing as well and my friends love their Japanese matcha soy too. I love that it’s open late in case I’m craving tea at night. Definitely recommend 7 Leaves to anyone who’s deciding where to go in Chinatown!” -Haaniya Dawoodally b. It apparently also has the best tapioca! But the Oolong flavor is further down the list in terms of rating. Everything Else (that’s still pretty good!)

5. Sharetea: another popular tea chain! If milk teas aren’t your thing, according to Haaniya and friends, the fruit teas from here are the way to go.

6. Boba and Cream: if you’re wanting double the sweets, they’ve got ice cream too!

7. Tea Bar and Organics: apart from tea, they have food too! If you’re looking for a study spot, this place is great.

8. Long Coffee: a pretty unique boba spot- it’s got a drive through!

9. T4- Tea For U: Apart from tea, this spot has Taiwanese street food as well! It’s got a cute ambiance and is a nice place to study or relax.

10. Kungfu Tea: if you’re picky, Kungfu Tea has a myriad of options for you! According to Haaniya, the coffee flavored milk tea is really good, so if you can’t decide on a flavor, we’ve got one for you.

11. ModernTea: the interior of this place is so cute, so if you’re all about the aesthetic and the Instagram feed, you can get some great pictures.

12. TEAholic: lots of options and flavors, and if you’re hungry they have Vietnamese street food.

13. Teawish: Teas are freshly made and the inside is very cute! The membership vs. non-member pricing for drinks is inconvenient though.

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