Food & Romance

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& d o o F mance Ro Supplement to Jewish News February 3, 2020

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Food & Romance

Rekindle your relationship with food. Reboot your family history. Lisa Richmon photographs by Mark Robbins

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illing a room with more than 250 people, Cleveland Clinic’s Chief Wellness Officer, plant-based nutrition advocate, and author of What to Eat When, Dr. Michael Roizen came with a few surprises and a healthy dose of scientific data

Tom Purcell, MIchael Roizen, Sandra Porter Leon.

to back them up. A pre-event warmup included a box lunch, group stretch, and a Q + A led by Tom Purcell, Simon Family JCC fitness director and Sandra Porter Leon, former JCC president. Porter Leon, a registered dietitian-nutritionist, and professor of nutrition at TCC, introduced Roizen, author of four #1 New York Times bestsellers and nine overall bestsellers. Roizen spoke at the Sandler Family Campus on January 16, as part of the 2020 Lee and Bernard Jaffe Jewish Book Festival. The doctor’s message for everyone is simple: Eat when the sun is out. Upon his

arrival, Roizen sprinted on stage and got right to the science behind increased longevity and decreased disability. While there is no medicine to treat dementia, he listed the nutritional, exercise, and stress management tools to keep your brain young and your heart strong. (Hint: Crossword puzzles will not do the trick, but speed-in-processing video games might.) Stress management, even something as simple as misting your pillow or yoga mat with lavender, or 15 minutes of online-guided meditation, could go right to your head. “I was surprised by the science on stress. I had no idea it played that large of a role in health,” says Lee Belote. “It always seemed like common sense, but I didn’t realize there was so much science to back it up. I did find the timing data interesting. I may try that, but I’m more of a grazer.” “It confirmed that I already eat very similar to the plan Dr, Roizen suggested,” says Purcell, a lifetime fitness professional. “I’m a BIG breakfast eater, moderate lunch, and small dinner. Small snack at night. He also confirmed areas of improvement for my clients who are not eating breakfast and their largest meal is at night. They snack on processed foods.” More good news. Second chances are infinite. Roizen likes to quote Dr. Michael Crupain, preventive

Michael Roizen.

Sandra Porter Leon.

medicine specialist and co-author of What to Eat When. “The sun rises every day.” In other words, mistakes don’t kill you. Do overs are part of the plan.

Dr. Michael Roizen’s Top Takeaways 1. You have the power (and responsibility) to change your family history. 2. Stress management is most essential to improving quality and quantity of life. 3. Your relationship with food will touch your heart. 4. E at foods that love you back. For example, salmon and ocean trout, and the most effective antioxidants such as coffee and blueberries. • Foods that don’t love you back are simple sugars, and saturated fat in red meat, chicken egg yolks, and high-fat dairy. 5. S mell the roses. Join the olfactory revolution. 6. T here is no medicine for dementia. Keep your brain young with stress reduction, friends and purpose, daily exercise (10,000 steps daily), and mindful eating. 7. T o control weight, take advantage of your body’s natural circadian rhythm, eat when the sun is out. Time restricted eating—eating small meals for 8 hours and refraining for 16. 8. S leep at least 7–8 hours every night. Nap to relieve stress. 9. Avoid toxins in tobacco and alcohol or making direct contact with BPA found on most receipts.

The crowd gets ready to hear Dr. Michael Roizen.

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Food & Romance

R I S T O R A N T E I N S P I R E D

B Y

I T A LY

Michael Roizen with his book.

Roizen’s presentation was engaging and funny,” says Purcell. “I’m hoping he’ll return when his cookbook comes out. I’m grateful we have a team putting this level of programming out there partly because it makes us stand out Shaye Arluk, Lee Belote, Allan Frost, Eric Hodies, Helen Frost, and Leslie Siegel. from other wellness facilities. We’re in our own league.” For years, Porter-Leon has used Roizen’s “Owner’s Manual” books as a teaching tool in her nutrition classes at TCC. “What I love about What to Eat When are the tasty morsels that Dr. Roizen dishes out, a wellness buffet steeped in scientific data Sue Ellen Teach, John and Ellen Harris, and Pearl Taylor. that helps us live a healthier life,” she says. “From antioxidants to zinc, the makes it easy for anyone to understand doctor administers practical advice that what and when to eat.”

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Food & Romance

Terrapin 2.0: Farm-fueled, color-blazed, and fired up Lisa Richmon

I

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f you ask chef Amy Brandt what makes Terrapin in Virginia Beach the area’s marriage proposal mecca, she’ll propose two main ingredients. “There’s only one restaurant in the area with the intimacy of Terrapin and 100% integrity in everything they do,” says the former Lucky Star chef/co-owner and farm-to-table trailblazer. “Every facet of Terrapin, from the service to the consistency, makes you feel so comfortable when you’re there. Like family.” Chef co-owner Rodney Einhorn confesses to anxiety-stirring perfectionism. “What most people don’t know about me is I’m a nervous wreck,” he says. “I’m very shy. I have anxiety about cooking for people. Not everyone is going to love what you do and I’m ok with that, but people are quick to cut you down. It took me a long time to deal with that. I used to do a ton of events. Not anymore. Most people wouldn’t peg me as shy, but I’d rather be out in the woods with my dog!” Einhorn was born and raised in Tidewater, the only son of Gerald and Dianne Einhorn. His paternal grandfather,

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William “Willie” Einhorn, was one of the founders of Hebrew Academy of Tidewater (now Strelitz International Academy). “We went to Ohef Sholom on Friday nights and always had wonderful holiday dinners,” says Einhorn. Terrapin is Einhorn’s first ‘baby.’ Its namesake dates back to the 1990s when he worked for Greenpeace and became a Deadhead. It’s not every day that a Jerry Garcia-inspired restaurant, conceived by a lanky Jewish chef from Virginia Beach, is honored with James Beard AAA four-diamond distinction. Last year, Einhorn and GM/co-owner Brian Williams fulfilled their vision to make Terrapin more fun and less fancy, completing the first rebranding and major cosmetic makeover since 2006. “Instead of coming to dine, people come just for a meal,” says Einhorn. “We got tired of the white tablecloths, the dark décor, and the high prices.” The new vibe, with way more Grateful Dead music, morphed Terrapin from formal to fun; dark to light; serious to simple, and pricy to palatable. Visual references to the restaurant’s origin story spring to life on the walls in the form


Food & Romance of a multi-hued soundwave of ‘the Dead’s’ song Terrapin Station, Jerry Garcia’s psychedelic handprint (sans a middle finger) and Einhorn’s Grateful Dead concert ticket stubs. A remastered menu was designed for sharable, family-style meals fueled by new kitchen toys such as the Josper charcoal/ grill/oven, and the pasta extruder, prodding the jump from two handmade pastas to six or more. Josper-blessed dishes, with taste you can’t miss, such as whole chickens, grass-fed burgers, and crispy duck, are the result of Chef de Cuisine Patrick Dunn’s Josper awakening. Many Terrapin originals such as bouillabaisse and truffle mac-n-cheese survived the rebrand. Foraging forward, farm meets fantasy in deserts and pastries by pastry chefs, each of whom has been an unstoppable match for Einhorn’s originality and mastery. The Terrapin family expanded in September 2019 when Rodney and Amanda Einhorn welcomed first child Ella Hope. Before Amanda returned to work from maternity leave, the firsttime parents enrolled their daughter at Strelitz International Academy’s preschool because of their “implicit trust” in SIA. “We absolutely love Strelitz,” says Einhorn. “Every single person at Strelitz is wonderful.” Swaddled in juxtapositions, Terrapin 2.0, makes the point that special occasions and no occasion can co-exist. Ditto for obsessively sourced, and impossibly simple and sharable. The Terrapin package is a rare combination of elements. “You

Jerry Garcia’s psychedelic handprint.

can enjoy a thoughtfully sourced meal without having to wear your finest duds,” says Brandt. Einhorn says, “People tell me, ‘I come here for special occasions. I can’t come in a T-shirt.’ I say, ‘yes you can.’ Second to Einhorn’s passion for the Grateful Dead is his relationship with local farmers. That indoctrination took place working in New York and Aspen, before returning to Virginia Beach where he’s been hailed as a farm-to-table early adopter. Einhorn calls it “thoughtful sourcing.” What it means is, “who am I buying from? How do they do business? I have to buy from people I trust and care about.” This loops back to the implicit trust he has in SIA. Relinquishing control is not easy for a new parent, or a perfectionist creative force. I’m trying not to ruin what they {the farmers} did. My goal is to keep it simple.” Conscious coupling meets culinary wizardry “Everything I do here is based on love. Love of food. Love of commitment. Love of sourcing and love for my local farmers,” says Einhorn. Einhorn tossed all those elements together into the most popular (and romantic) salad in Terrapin history. “My wife loves beets. I hate them,” he says. “I just met John Cromwell and we hit it off.” So, Einhorn did what any husband would do. He asked the farmer to grow the baby beets his wife loved so he could compose a beet salad just for her. “It was the first time a chef approached John to grow something for a restaurant,” says Einhorn. Whenever people ask Einhorn for the ‘garden of love salad’ recipe, he gladly shares it. “I never hold anything to myself,” says Einhorn. “Almost everything that comes through here is something Patrick and I have fallen in love with and need to share. Giving and sharing like that comes from my mother. And, my grandmother.” Terrapin has been the go-to for countless marriage proposals and anniversary dinners. “One couple came back and let us do their wedding here,” says Einhorn, “Chuppah and all.” “Those peace and love vibes just keep flowing making it the spot to make a memory,” says Brandt.

Amanda, Ella, and Rodney Einhorn.

jewishnewsva.org | February 3, 2020 | Food & Romance | Jewish News | 17


Food & Romance

Kitchen Barn: Still crazy busy after all these years Lisa Richmon

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alk into Kitchen Barn in Virginia Beach, home to 100,000 kitchen gadgets and five full lines of cookware, and you’ll be greeted by a warm and friendly face with a head full of knowledge. The broad smile might belong to Annmarie King whose thick salt and pepper hair is held back in a ponytail, or chef and storyteller Matt Starcher, ‘Mattdad,’ also with long thick hair, pulled back in a bun. You might hear their voices before seeing their faces. King and Starcher know something useful and nuanced about every single product at ‘the barn.’ Joel Feldman opened Kitchen Barn in 1975 in Virginia Beach to meet the cooking needs of everyone on the cooking spectrum, from kitchen novice to culinary

black belt. King and Starcher feel as if they’ve learned from the best. “Joel is brilliant,” says King. “He hires the right people.” “Joel’s a retail genius,” says Starcher, Kitchen Barn’s chef and general manager. “To keep a retail business going strong for 45 years, you either provide exceptional service or you establish yourself as the bottom-line price guy and price matcher.” Feldman is unapologetically not that guy. Instead, he has succeeded making Kitchen Barn an indispensable resource to anyone in the kitchen—residential or commercial. Not a light touch or pushover, Feldman’s high standards for his staff are more than urban myth. Annmarie King has been a bubbly and popular Kitchen Barn fixture since

Some simple favorites at Kitchen Barn: Brown Sugar Bear, Next Trend Garlic Twister, and Kuhn Rikon vegetable peeler.

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Food & Romance Feldman hired her 13 years ago at the former, smaller store in Hilltop West Shopping Center. If King can’t tell a customer how to use a product, and why they will love it, it’s not barn-ready. Training the staff to meet Feldman’s standards and achieve her level of knowledge takes time. “We have to know a lot about a lot of things. ‘Why does this measuring cup have rivets?’ ‘Why is this $5 more?’ ‘Why won’t this one rust and this one will?’ ‘Why is this measuring cup the one and only you’ll ever use again?’ Our customers trust us. We have zero tolerance for BS,” says King. If you don’t know, you better ask.” Martha Glasser, a home cook and baker, knows Joel Feldman’s track record for getting it right. Glasser has been a Kitchen Barn customer since 1980. Her connection dates back to taking classes by cooking icons Janie Jacobson and Rachel Sancilio. “Joel stands behind every product,” says Glasser. “His knowledgeable staff, Annmarie, Linda, and his sister Sherry, are so amazing. It’s truly a local business and his dedication is a treasure for the entire region.” Change happens. Everyone cooks. “Parents bring their kids in to cook now,” says Starcher, a culinary school grad and cooking instructor. “We have chefs, dads, and kids of all ages. They grew up with Food Network, Instagram, and YouTube. Kids can cook.” Starcher will make customers fall in love with red meat in a cast iron skillet or tell a story about his high school bride and their four kids. He’ll take packages to a customer’s car, hoping to squeeze in a little more bonding time. “When you think of cooking, I want you to think of me,” he says. Like a sponge, he’s trying to absorb everything he can from an oldschool business wiz, whose instincts for success and longevity he compares to Sam Walton. King also gives her boss huge props for keeping the barn doors open for 45 years. “He doesn’t connect with everyone, but when he does, it’s a lifelong connection,” says King. In no small part because of

Annmarie King’s Top 5 Kitchen Products 1. Brown Sugar Bear—keeps out moisture (and clumps). 2. Oxo Measuring Cup—no hands needed, can read overhead. 3. Next Trend Garlic Twister—chops garlic and ginger to nuts. 4. L ilypad Sealed Cover—forms an air-tight seal. 5. S wiftStrip Microplane—pulls herbs right off the stem.

Matt Starcher’s Top 5 Kitchen Products 1. Kuhn Rikon Vegetable peeler— life changer, thanks to chef Todd Jurich. 2. Handmade cherry artisanal spatula—made in Floyd, Virginia. 3. Santuko knife—wedding gift and go to knife for 25 years. 4. B reville Immersion Blender— multi-use, can be used in a hot pot of soup or for mixing/ chopping. 5. L odge Cast Iron—rinse and ready, lasts a lifetime.

Feldman, they have unique team synergy in a warm environment filled with friendly people who love to cook—and share that passion with customers. “People know they can come in and ask a question, or talk about cooking— and we don’t expect anything in return. The trick to knowing what people want is to “shut up every now and then and just listen.” Feldman’s secret to longevity: “45 years of loving on my customers.”

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Food & Romance

BurgerIM opens in Norfolk

James Whittaker, Bill Carter, Teddy and Malinda Smith, owners of BurgerIM on West 25th Street in Norfolk at the restaurant’s opening with Mayor Kenny Alexander, Congresswoman Elaine Luria, and Councilwoman Andria McClellan.

T

he Israeli burger chain, BurgerIM recently opened two locations in Norfolk, one just outside the Norfolk Premium Outlet mall and one on West 25th St. Burgerim, by the way, is the plural of burger in Hebrew. Started in Tel Aviv, the chain is expanding throughout the U.S. with several opening in Tidewater. Not just a burger place, in addition to its classic mini-burgers, the restaurant’s menu includes such offerings as falafel, Greek lamb, Spanish beef, salmon, and chicken sandwiches. Myriad toppings,

Congresswoman Elaine Luria with Teddy and Malinda Smith.

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fries, onion rings, chicken wings, and milkshakes comprise the seemingly limited list of options on the menu. Teddy Smith, the owner of the West 25th Street location, is a Navy Veteran who served with Elaine Luria, prior to both of their retirements. Smith served for 25 years; his wife, Malinda Smith, is also a Navy Veteran. “My family has been in the food industry for about 50 years,” says Smith. His uncle and father started the successful Henry’s Soul Food Café in Washington, D.C. And, during high school, he did a stint at McDonald’s. “After I retired in 2017, I saw something about BurgerIM on Facebook, looked into it, and then travelled with Malinda to California and then to Northern Virginia to try the food. We were satisfied with the product and then, bought into the franchise,” says Smith. Smith recalls that one day he and Luria were talking about what they hoped to do after retirement. She was considering politics, and he thought about opening a restaurant. It appears they both achieved their goals.


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