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New series: U.S. Navy aircraft ID markings > p. 21
January 2019
Detail the Dunkerque How to improve
SPE I AL IPMSC Natio/USA gallenrals y p. 38 Ulf Lundberg upgrades the French capital ship – p. 32
HobbyBoss’ battleship
Weather a wellworn Chinese tank ▼ p. 48 Adam Wilder on distressing Meng’s ZTZ-96
Create a heavy-metal Hustler ▼ p. 16 Jeff Thomsen puts a natural-metal finish on a B-58
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FineScale Modeler
January 2019
CONTENTS
ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1901
January 2019 /// Vol 37 /// No 1
Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content
58 FEATURES
KIT REVIEWS
16 Airbrushing & Finishing
58 AFV Club M54A2
Heavy-metal Hustler JEFF THOMSEN
60 Dora Wings Messerschmitt
18 Paint & Play Fierce colors for an Enchantress SUE WACHOWSKI
16
Bf 109A/B 61 Airfix Hunting Percival Jet
21 U.S. Navy aircraft ID markings — a history, Part 1
Provost T.3
Early days marked by bright colors DARREN ROBERTS
62 Special Hobby P-40N Warhawk
26 Old kit, old-school build, all fun Building Monogram's vintage F3F DARREN ROBERTS
63 Azur FrRom CASA C-212-100/300 Aviocar
21
32 Pride of the French Navy
IN EVERY ISSUE
Improve the HobbyBoss Dunkerque ULF LUNDBERG
5 Editor’s Page 38 Show Gallery 7 Scale Talk, Tips, Q&A
IPMS/USA Nationals 2018 FSM STAFF
44 Build a 'Grace'ful torpedo bomber
32
10 New Products 54 Reader Gallery
References aid accurate paint scheme FRANK CUDEN
64 Classified Marketplace
48 Weathering a worn Type 96
65 Hobby Shop Directory
Chips, rust, sand, and mud for the Chinese ZTZ-96B main battle tank ADAM WILDER
65 Advertiser Index
48
66 Final Details
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FineScale Modeler
January 2019
EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage
Plunging into 2019
W
e’re about to plunge into a new year, according to the calendar on your wall. But if you check the date on this issue, for example, you’ll notice 2019 is already underway. At the magazine we’re always working ahead to keep you swimming in fresh modeling news, tips, and techniques that we hope will help you enjoy your favorite hobby. his year we lead of with a stellar maritime build from our overseas ship expert, Ulf Lundberg. You’ve seen his work before, but Ulf has a way of making even the most diicult build and detailing look easy. We also know you aircraft builders are always looking for good reference material. So we asked Darren Roberts, one of our top aircraft modelers, to delve deep into U.S. Navy aircraft squadron ID markings. his issue launches the irst of his fourpart series.
Each markings story will be paired with the build of an aircraft displaying an example of markings from a speciic period. Darren will cover markings from the early years up until recent markings on Navy jets. Longtime contributor Frank Cuden weighs We get inspired at shows like last year’s AMPS convention in with a super howwhere we saw Matt Bond’s M4A3E8 Sherman, the Easy Eight. to story on painting a Japanese topedo bomber, He hand-painted those Korean War tiger stripes. a Grace, in authentic colors. And noted Modeling and found a gorgeous galarmor modeler Adam Wilder comes lery of builds from this year’s IPMS/ through with a beautifully weathered USA Nationals show, but we’ve saved Chinese tank how-to that will make a few eye-poppers for this issue. See your next build one that stands out at the IPMS gallery, starting on p. 38, future contests. for inspiration in the new year. Speaking of which, we know Hope 2019 is a model year for many of you already have picked up you, and we’ll see you and your a copy of our annual, Great War Scale builds at an upcoming show!
Off the sprue: Name your favorite Beatles song Maybe we’ll give the Rolling Stones a shot soon, if the Devil doesn’t get us first!
Editor Mark Savage msavage@Kalmbach.com
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner askinner@FineScale.com
Digital Editor Elizabeth Nash enash@FineScale.com
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag mfreitag@FineScale.com
I think it varies. As a kid it was Yellow Submarine, but nowadays it seems like When You’re 64, or Long and Winding Road are more appropriate. But I sing along with them all each morning listening to the Beatles channel on XM in the car. Amaze myself at how many I know by heart! Favorite? Here Comes the Sun!
This is like asking me to name my favorite airplane, but here goes: If I’m singing out loud in the car, it’s A Hard Day’s Night. Otherwise, I’d probably say Let It Be.
Contemplative mood: In My Life Sad: She’s Leaving Home Happy: I’ve Just Seen a Face On deadline: Maxwell’s Silver Hammer All-time favorite: Eleanor Rigby ... You just can’t go wrong with their music!
Tough, but probably In My Life. I remember having the Rubber Soul album (still do) and the song that everyone was listening to, at age 11, was Michelle (McCartney and French — need I say more?). I didn’t really listen to the lyrics of In My Life until I was an adult and could fully appreciate Lennon’s song. www.FineScale.com
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EDITORIAL
The most generally helpful articles were published in a series of booklets. To keep this important resource available for hobbyists, ARA Press has revived publication of the ([WUHPH 5RFNHWU\ booklets.
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SCALE TALK Your voice in FSM
Questions & Answers Decanting spray can paint
Q
I need to decant spray can paint. What does that process involve?
– Eric Weinberg, via email Jack Lynch shares the display he made honoring his father and the destroyer escort his dad served on during World War II.
Honoring another Navy father he letter from Rich Zolla in the October 2018 “Scale Talk” really hit home with me. My father also served on a destroyer escort whose tour included the Philippines, Iwo Jima, and Okinawa. He also passed away in 2014 at the age of 93. Dad served aboard the USS Fleming (DE-32) and it sounds like our fathers must have crossed paths during the war. he movie, The Enemy Below, also was required viewing in our household! One of my best memories of my dad was the tour he gave me, the year before he passed, of the only remaining WWII DE the USS Slater, docked in Albany, New York. I will never forget it! Just wanted to let you guys know what a small world it really is and Rich is correct when he spoke of the sacriices our fathers made for their country. hey truly were the Greatest Generation! – Jack Lynch, Fallington, Pa.
Thoughts on aircraft tires First, a few general comments: I enjoy reading FSM every month and have for years. Also, love the Skinner and Nash team and watch every New Product Rundown online. Now for a modeling comment: I worked with a B-24 bombardier for many years. I told him about modeling tires on planes as soft (with a bulge) or with worn treads. His immediate reaction was how unrealistic that was. He said, “We liked our tires in perfect shape. After flak, ground ire, and enemy ighters, we really didn’t want to crash on return to base.” Now I need to rethink how I model tires. – Paul Montagnon, Cheshire, Conn.
Long live Paint & Play! I really like your new “Paint & Play” column. I’ve built scale models since I was a kid (I’ll be 60 next birthday), and I have been a miniature war-gamer for about 10 to
A
Decanting spray cans is relatively easy, but can be really messy if things go awry. Here’s how I do it. First ind a container to store the paint in. If you plan on using it for more than one session, choose a bottle or jar you can close tightly. Take the lid of the container, wrap a piece of aluminum foil over the opening, and secure it with a rubber band. hen use a pen or pencil to poke a single hole through the foil. Next, take a plastic drinking straw — any kind will work but the bendy ones are especially useful — and cut a 4- to 5-inch piece. Tape one end of the straw over the nozzle opening on the spray can. Make sure to use enough tape to seal the join between the nozzle and the straw. Put gloves on both hands as paint will end up on them otherwise. Now shake the can vigorously; you won’t be able to shake the can after you start spraying. Insert the straw in the hole in the foil and depress the paint nozzle. Paint will begin flowing from the straw into the bottle. Keep going until you have as much paint as you need. Now leave the jar full of freshly decanted paint to one side, but DO NOT screw on a lid. he paint needs to de-gas so all of the trapped propellant is dissipated. If the lid is on tight, pressure can build inside the container and will be released explosively when the lid is 15 years now. Scale modelers and war-gaming miniatures have far more in common than diferences. hanks for listening and I hope Paint & Play has a long and healthy run. – Mike Higgins, Niagara, Wis.
Sci-fi motivates this modeler Ethan Idenmill’s commentary regarding the acceptance of sci-i modeling in the October issue really hit home. I’ve been modeling on and of since I was nine (I’ll be 55 soon), but it was a half-hearted attempt.
opened. No one wants that. So let the paint sit for several hours to ensure the gas is gone. hen, you can use the paint normally through your airbrush. – Aaron Skinner
Marking for better seams
Q
As always I am enjoying the latest FineScale Modeler. But I have a question on picture No. 1 in the November 2018 issue article, “Warm Up a Cold War Jet.” he caption states “Once the fuselage halves are joined, coloring the long seams with a marker helps ind the inevitable gaps.” As I am not familiar with this technique can you amplify what that means? Is there an example of a picture that shows gaps with the colored marker? he picture in the article does not clearly show what to look for. – Dave Marzola, via email
A
hanks for your email. he technique described is a shortcut for the kind of seam check that priming usually reveals. By running a hardtipped — new versus an older marker whose tip has worn — marker along the seams with the tip bridging the join, ink will be deposited where it contacts the surface. If there is a minute gap, bare plastic will show and indicate where more illing is needed. Once that’s done, use the marker again to check your work. hen remove the ink with alcohol or a similar solvent before painting the area, especially if you are applying a light top color. – Aaron Skinner
I really took a keen interest in modeling with the explosion of sci-i models as a result of TV shows such as Star Trek (reruns) and movies such as Star Wars. It was with those models that I fell in love with the hobby and began to hone my skills. hese days, I’m rediscovering sci-i and absolutely ecstatic over the re-release of kits from my youth. By the way, I don’t live in anyone’s basement and never have. I am, however, building the 22- x 13-foot modeling man cave of my dreams, complete with central AC and heat, LED lighting (that I wired), a washwww.FineScale.com
7
SCALE TALK Now at www.FineScale.com
out sink, display case, storage, and multiple workstations. So, to Ethan I say rock on, and don’t worry about the naysayers. Just enjoy the hobby. – Stew Brouillette Houma, La.
Trash stirs a steampunk modeler
Free, free, free ... That’s right, you can download this and other images from our website. John Plzak built this gorgeous AFV Club M54. See his full review starting on p. 58 in Workbench Reviews. Find the answers Questions about finishing or building? You can find answers online with FSM’s collection of free videos and stories detailing build processes from start to finish!
New Product Rundown Want to know about a new kit on the market? Aaron Skinner and Elizabeth Nash host a twice-monthly video review of the newest models and show what’s inside the boxes.
– Colin Prince Auckland, New Zealand
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FineScale Modeler
January 2019
I have been building models most of my life, aircraft, 1/25 trucks and ire trucks, and then I got married and took a 30-year break from modeling. After two major back operations eight years ago a friend gave me a couple of models to help me recuperate. his got me back into it. I did a few more 1/25 scale vehicles and then changed to 1/144 aircraft, mainly commercial from the 1950s to ’70s (my younger days!). Recently I decided to add a bit of variety and moved to 1/35 vehicles and a few resin busts, as my interest was waning a bit. A few weeks ago I saw some steampunk models and thought that would be a good way to incorporate my interests (aircraft, trucks, and steam engines). I was at a loss as to what/how to build anything like this, so decided to take a break and read the October FSM. Wow, what a coincidence. John Brosnan’s article, “Trash your model,” has given me some new ideas and a fresh look at my new project, and I already have a second one in mind. Keep up the great work and I look forward to more articles like this, or perhaps on steampunk modeling!
I just received Aaron Skinner’s Airbrushing Techniques: Getting Started and thoroughly enjoyed the treatment! Although I had read Aaron’s book on airbrushing quite a while back I must admit some trepidation about jumping into airbrushing … and my modeling sufered for it. But this visual experience was so clear and explanatory that I now feel the need to invest and sally forth! Being retired and “old school” I ind visuals easier to learn from. hanks Aaron (and video crew) for cranking this out! – Chuck Larsen, Grand Haven, Mich. >> Tell us what you think (about modeling), or send us a photo of your workspace/display area. You can always email us at editor@FineScale.com.
Reader tips
Easy pitot tube replacement In many cases pitot tubes are flimsy or have nasty mold lines that are difficult to clean up. An easy way to improve the look of your model is to replace plastic parts with machine printed circuit boardsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pins, connectors, or towers. One source is Mill-Max Corp. (www.millmax.com). Mill-Max will even send you a few free samples. You only need to find the pin or connector that matches the size and shape you are looking for, 1, modify the plastic piece to accept the metal part, perhaps by enlarging the opening, 2, and voila! You have
1 what you need, 3, no seam lines to clean up and a much better looking and much stronger pitot tube. This trick also can be applied for antennas, machine guns, etc. You just need to find the right pin/ connector and ask for your free sample. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pablo Bauleo, Fort Collins, Colo.
Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all physics, remember physics? â&#x20AC;Ś I have read a number of kit reviews concerning aircraft models with tricycle undercarriage and the reviewer
2 being concerned with the amount of required nose weight stressing the nosewheel strut. Since the nose weight is only causing a balance around a fulcrum (the main undercarriage) only any excess weight added will stress the nose landing gear. Adding 50g in the nose may be balanced by tail overhang thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s equivalent to 49g. The nose gear will only feel 1g not 50, but the nose will stay down. Certainly, adding more weight will increase stability but the nose gear would have to be pretty weak to be affected. If anything, the
3 question should be, can the main undercarriage stand the extra strain? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dean Wilson, Dundee, Angus, Scotland
â&#x20AC;Ś or a nickel for your nose Paul Boyer was building a model of a Mitchell B-25J in an issue a while back and said he had to add 25 grams to the nose, but said that he didnšt have a scale. My tip is this, a nickel weighs 5 grams. So I hope this will help future modelers needing a little nose weight. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Adam Sizemore, Monroe, Mich.
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9
NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner
Spotlight
New kits and other highlights from the All-Japan Model & Hobby Show
T
he 58th annual AllJapan Model & Hobby Show ran September 28-30, 2018, at the Tokyo Big Sight convention center. FSM special correspondent Greg Bower hit the floor to see what was new. Here are some highlights.
Bandai
Aoshima
Expanding its large Star Wars vehicle line, Bandai will release a 1/1000 scale Blockade Runner, the very irst ship seen in the original 1977 movie. Due in November, this fan favorite will be paired with small-scale Millenium Falcon.
Also on display was a collection of seven proposed astromechs seen in various Star Wars movies and the TV series. hese 1/12 scale kits are currently in development. To promote its just released kit of MechaGodzilla, Aoshima had an actual ilming suit used in the 2002 movie Godzilla Against MechaGodzilla. Aoshima's new MFS-3 MechaGodzilla kit (No. GO-01) comprises styrene, ABS, and PVC parts, and stands about 10 inches tall when inished.
Fine Molds
On display at the booth was a beautiful 1/48 scale kit of Kamikaze, the record-setting Mitsubishi Ki-51 that flew from Japan to London and back in 1937. his kit is due in early December.
10 FineScale Modeler January 2019
Also of note was the 1/72 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6 in Italian Air Force service (No. 75916). It includes the distinctive Tropical air ilter on the port-side of the cowl used to protect the engine from sand in North Africa. he kit is expected in mid-November.
Hasegawa
Hasegawa’s 1/24 scale 1973 Mitsubishi Galant 2000GSR (HC-30) should be available now. It follows from the company’s previous 1971 Galant and features new chassis, muffler, front grille, overfender, rear panel, rear seat, air outlet, front seat, wheel rims, taillights, and tires.
Much of the buzz at the Hasegawa booth centered around its upcoming 1/72 scale kit of Fighter 1 (CW-15) from the popular 1980s anime, Crusher Joe. (he last time this subject was available in plastic
was in the early '80s when Takara released a 1/100 scale kit.) his snap-together kit will be molded in color and accessible to novices; the canopy, missile launchers, and air brakes will be posable. Due December, Fighter 1 also includes two igures.
Hasegawa's Eggplane kits are popular not only in Japan, but worldwide. A few years ago, the whimsical series was revitalized with limited-edition kits that include 1/20 scale Eggplane Girl resin igures. he latest is a Hughes 500 with Claire Frost, a nurse (SP386). hese igures come with decals for eyes and clothing features, so you don't need to be an expert at detail painting. his kit is due in December.
HK Models
HK Models’ long-awaited 1/32 scale Lancaster Mk.I (No. 3201E05) is expected to be in stores soon. Clear fuselage
parts will be included to display the detailed interior.
HobbyBoss
massive model will be nearly 18-inches tall and 2-feet tall when inished and features a number of options. It should be available now.
Platz
Big bombers seemed to be a theme at the show as HobbyBoss showed of its impending 1/32 scale B-24J Liberator (No. 83211). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s due in December.
Max Factory
Max Factory's Minimum Factory division has released an enormous 1/20 scale Strike Valkyrie (MF-25) in Gerwalk mode from the anime movie Macross: Do You Remember Love? Molded in color, this
Also on display was Polar Lightsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; highly anticipated 1/350 scale Klingon K'Tinga battle cruiser (POL950) from Star Trek: The Motion Picture. A separate lighting kit (MKA031), complete with flashing collision strobes, will enable people with no experience in electronics or lighting to animate this kit for maximum movie-feel. his exciting kit will be released this winter.
Tamiya Japan's Air Self Defense Force is well-known for the beautiful artwork that adorns many of its ighters. Platz displayed its 1/72 scale F-15J in the 40th anniversary markings of the 304th Squadron Tengu Warriors with the mythical igure Tengu on the top (AC24). Out now, this kit retails for about $40.
Decals provide three marking options. he kit is due out any time now.
Tamiya showed its newly tooled 1/35 scale M551 Sheridan (No. 35365), the U.S. airborne tank used in Vietnam. Wire and mesh are included, and a separately available detail set includes a metal gun barrel.
Wolfpack
Tamiya showed buildups of its all-new 1/48 scale Spitire Mk I (No. 61119). It features improved surface features including rivets, a fully detailed cockpit, photo-etched parts including seatbelts, and a thin canopy that displays the cockpit beautifully. he canopy can be posed open or closed, and painting masks are included.
Wolfpack showed of a striking premium 1/48 scale Japanese Marine Self Defense Force MH-53E Sea Dragon (WP14802) based on plastic from Academy. It features markings for four helicopters.
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NEW PRODUCTS AIRCRAFT KITS 1/48 SCALE
M3A1 Scout Car from Tamiya, No. 35363, $50. WBR
EA-18G Growler VAQ-141 Shadowhawks from Academy, No. 12560, $38. Engraved panel lines and rivets, drop tanks included.
B-25G Mitchell from Italeri, No. 552787, $71.50. Includes colored instruction sheet, extra catalog, super decal sheet for four versions.
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Ferdinand SdKfz 184 German tank destroyer from Zvezda, No. 5041, $18.99. Snap kit.
F4J Diamondbacks from Academy, No. 12323, $69. Includes colored instruction sheet, extra catalog, super decal sheet for four versions.
Panther Ausf D SdKfz 171 Early/Mid production 2 in 1 from Takom , No. 2103, $74. Bonus transparent shell, full interior.
1/72 SCALE T-14 Armata Russian main battle tank from Zvezda, No. 5056, $34.99.
USSR M10 Lend-Lease from Academy, No. 13521, $56. Includes ive detailed igures, photo-etch parts. MiG-15 “Fagot” Soviet fighter from Zvezda, No. 7317, $21.99.
M60A1 from Italeri, No. 557075, $23.99.
WorkBench Review Look for a detailed review (WBR) in an upcoming issue of FineScale Modeler. StuG IV SfKfz 167 early version from Academy, No. 13522, $53. Features 7.5cm StuK L/48 gun and MG34 machine gun, build with hatches open or closed, lexible rubber tracks, three marking options.
Ju-86E-1/E-2 from Italeri, No. 551391, $38.99. Includes decal sheet for seven versions. 12 FineScale Modeler January 2019
1/48 SCALE
1/144 SCALE Mirage pilot from
Lufthansa 2018 "Fanhansa" A321
PlusModel, No. AL4080, $12.70.
from Draw Decal, No. 44-A3N-91F, $12. Also available in 1/200 No. 20-A3N-91F, $8.
AIRCRAFT DETAILS
T-34/76 Mod. 1942 Cast Turret from Dragon, No. DRA7601, $17.99.
1/72 SCALE
SCIFI KITS
Propeller Hamilton for Lockheed Constelation EC-121, L749,L1049 from
SHIPS
1/1000 SCALE 1/700 SCALE
PlusModel, No. AL7023, $16.10.
Wheels for C-121 Constelation from PlusModel, No. AL7024, $11.40.
German Battleship Bismarck 1941 from Flyhawk, No. FH1132, $72.95. WBR
USS Grissom NCC-638 & Klingon Bird of Prey from Polar Lights, No. POL957M/12,
MISCELLANEOUS
$32.95. WBR
Wheels for L749 Constelation from PlusModel, No. AL7025, $11.40.
1/500 SCALE
TOOLS AND STUFF Fujiya 13-degree Super-Sharp Sprue Cutter from MicroMark/Fujiya, No. 87609, $29.95.
USS Defiant NX-74205 from Polar Lights, No. POL952/12, $29.95. '
Colosseum (Flavio amphitheater) from Italeri, historic booklet included, No. 5568003, $86.50.
FIGURES
AIRCRAFT DECALS
1/32 SCALE F4U Corsair pilot from PlusModel, No. AL3002, $23.90.
1/72 SCALE Lady Jo TF-51D from Draw Decal, No. 72-P51-96, $8. "Blue Nosed” scheme of the 352nd Fighter Group available in 1/24 No. 24-P51-96, $25, 1/32 No. 32-P51-96, $15, 1/48 No. 48-P51-96, $12 and 1/144 No. 44-P51-96, $5.
Oval base from Custom Bases, No. CB-01001L, $10. Beveled edge.
Oval base from Custom Bases, No. CB-R30010B, $12. Limited edition, Zincworks inish.
www.FineScale.com
13
NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight
In a big change of pace, Wingnut Wings goes really big with Avro Lancaster
B
est known for its glorious 1/32 scale World War I aircraft kits, New Zealand-based Wingnut Wings (www.wingnutwings. com) stunned the world with the announcement of a forthcoming Lancaster. It will be in 1/32 scale and there are actually two kits planned — a Mk.I/III Merlin-engined bomber (No. 32043) and a Mk.III Dambuster (No. 32044).
In a press release, Wingnut Wings’ general manager Richard Alexander says the kit's research, design, and tooling has been underway for more than eight years. "Features include realistic surface detail with stressed skin efect, overlapping panels, and raised rivets, WWII era European theater radiators and nacelle intakes, and WWII era fabric covered elevators,” he says.
14 FineScale Modeler January 2019
If you are wondering how to display or transport a model with a wingspan in excess of 3 feet, the outer wing section will be removable. “Note that this is entirely 100% a Wingnut Wings model and shares nothing with any computer modeling and/or scanning carried out by Weta Digital, etc, for Peter Jackson’s Dambusters movie project (which “remains in development”),” Richard says.
“In any case, wire frame CGI movie models are completely unsuitable for creating scale model kits.” he kits are expected to be available in late 2019. he price is still to be conirmed, but the company aims to keep it as low as possible, hopefully only slightly more than "he Duellists” Felixstowe F.2a and Hansa-Brandenburg W.29 kit which is $349.
Anti-spill stand for paint - small from JP
BOOKS & MEDIA
Modelworks LLC, $9.99.
US Cruise Missiles,
Anti-spill stand for paint - large from JP
$34.95, by Bill Yenne, soft cover, 204 pages, 339 color and B/W photos, ISBN: 978-1-58007256-4. From Specialty Press.
Israeli Paratroopers 1954-2016, $19, by David Campbell, soft cover, 64 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 9781-4728-2771-6. From Osprey Publishing.
Modelworks LLC, $9.99.
Operation Linebacker II 1972, $20, by Anti-spill stand for glue from JP Modelworks LLC, $9.99.
GLUES AND PAINTS Flexible bond CA PE adhesive from Bergswerk mediumadhesive for etched parts made of brass, nickel silver and
Marshall L. Michel III, soft cover, 96 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 9781-4728-2760-9. From Osprey Publishing .
British Ironclads 1860-75, $18, by Angus Konstam, soft cover, 48 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2689-3. From Osprey Publishing.
Chinese Soldier versus Japanese Soldier China 1937-38, $20, by David Campbell, soft cover, 80 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2820-0. From Osprey Publishing.
British Destroyer vs German Destroyer Narvik 1940, $20, by David Greentree and David Campbell, soft cover, 80 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2820-0. From Osprey Publishing.
bronze, No. 83108, $9.
White metal and resin adhesive from Bergswerk medium adhesive for kits and castings made of white metal and resin, No. 83102, $7.85. Also available in thin and thick viscosity.
B-52 Stratofortress vs SA-2 Guideline Sam Vietnam 1972-73, $20, by Peter E Davies, soft cover, 80 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 9781-4728-2362-5. From Osprey Publishing.
Imjin River 1951, $24, by Brian Drohan, soft cover, 96 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2692-3. From Osprey Publishing.
Fine crystalline cyanoacrylate filler from Bergswerk high strength CA adhesive for back reinforcement of adhesive grooves, No. 83109, $4.45.
Dornier Do 335, $20, by Robert Forsyth, soft cover, 80 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2889-7. From Osprey Publishing .
Welcome New Manufacturers Draw Decal www.drawdecal.com JP Modelworks LLC www.jpmodelworks.com Bergswerk Modellbauzubehรถr http://www.bergswerk-modell.de facebook.com/bergswerk.modell Micro-Mark www.micromark.com
Republic F-105 Thunderchief, $35, by Jaroslaw Dobrzynski, Marcelo Ribeiro, soft cover, 160 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 9788-3652-8179-1. From Casemate Publishers.
Sink the Tirpitz 194244, $20, by Angus Konstam, soft cover, 96 pages, all B/W photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-31590. From Osprey Publishing.
www.FineScale.com
15
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING By Aaron Skinner
Heavy-metal Hustler Bright trim marks one of the B-58 test airframes
J
ef homsen converted and detailed Monogram’s 1/48 scale Hustler into a YB-58 with a host of improvements, including rear crew compartments with scratchbuilt walls, floors, and bulkheads, Lone Star resin instrument panels and consoles, Fisher Models resin early ejection-seats, new windows in the rear compartments, open canopies, Aires intakes and exhausts with Lone Star nozzles, Fisher elevons, repositioned rudder, and a faired over tail turret. “Painting the exterior was complicated,” Jef says. “Not only was there the challenge of bare metal on most of the airplane, but there were areas that were extremely hard to get at with masking tape and an airbrush, especially around the outboard engines.” Plus the model is big, more than 2 feet long, so Jef worried about damaging it during masking and painting. He airbrushed the engines and fuselage pod separately but wanted to be sure they it perfectly at inal assembly. After protecting the surfaces with Bare-Metal Foil, he applied Apoxie Sculpt to the pylon joining surfaces “much like a bricklayer would do to a brick before itting it.” He positioned the parts with tape holding them tightly as the putty set. he next day, he removed the parts and cleaned up the foil and excess putty. After masking, priming, and lightly wet-sanding the airframe, Jef painted the trim with decanted Tamiya spray-can colors — irst white (TS-26) and then a mix of Italian red (TS8) and orange (TS-12) for the red — diluted with Mr. Color Leveling hinner to the consistency of 1% milk. For bare metal, he applied a base coat of Alclad II aluminum lacquer. “I spray the Alclad right out of the bottle without thinning and prefer to use the non-shiny colors because they seem more realistic,” he says. “hey also can be applied over any good lacquer or enamel primer — you don’t need gloss black underneath. Be sure the surface is very smooth and free of scratches. hat’s what the primer is for.” hen, he carefully masked individual panels with Tamiya or Aizu tape and airbrushed them with varying mixes of Duralumin and steel. Mr. Color flat aluminum set the gear-well fairings apart. For his chosen subject, the third pre-production Hustler when the two-component pod was being drop tested, he could only ind a black-and-white photo. “herefore, the Day-Glo red on the pod is a guess on my part, but it looks cool,” he says. he markings are a combination of decals from Caracal and Fox One. Rather than risk squeezing glue onto the model, Jef pinned the components. After installing brass rod in holes drilled in the pylons, he drilled corresponding holes all the way through the wings and enlarged the openings on the upper surface. Now he could dribble epoxy over the pins from above while holding the component in place. hen he illed the holes and repainted the spots. FSM 16 FineScale Modeler January 2019
Surface detail: Jeff sanded off and rescribed as many of the kit’s raised panel lines as possible before assembly. “The Monogram kit was molded in a silvery plastic and the lines stayed visible in the plastic after sanding them off, which aided in placement,” he says. He primarily used a No. 11 blade turned 90 degrees and dragged along a stainless-steel scribing template or, for long lines, a clear plastic ruler. For scribing on curved surfaces like the engine nacelles, he used Hasegawa’s Trytool saw scribers or JLC’s razor saw guided by Dymo labeling tape.
Airbrush: Jeff uses a Paasche H single-action airbrush powered by a Grex AC1810-A compressor with an inline moisture trap. “My spraying pressure is usually about 20 psi read while the airbrush trigger is held down,” he says. “Higher pressures help to keep my nozzle tip from clogging, especially with Alclad paints, but tend to make the paint dry before it’s fully on the model, resulting in a grainy finish.“
Cockpits: To paint the scratchbuilt cockpits, Jeff used Testors Model Master enamels: light gray overall, dark gray instrument panels and side consoles. To pick out details, he handbrushed Vallejo Model Color acrylics because they flow nicely and cover well. Then, he mixed brown and black artist’s oils thinned with Turpenoid for a pinwash. He removed excess wash with a little clean Turpenoid on a cotton swab. Decals from several sources supplied instruments.
Sleek and deadly, Convair’s Hustler looks to be going flat out sitting on the ground. And did it ever move! The B-58 could hit Mach 2 and set several speed records. Jeff’s model represents the third preproduction airframe.
Meet Jeff Thomsen Encouraged by his dad, Jeff began building models when he was 8 and credits the interest it sparked for a career spent in aviation. “I left modeling behind for a while through college where I met my wife, Karen,” he says. “We soon moved from southern California to Minnesota to take a job. It was during the rather long winters and after Karen
Weathering: Since the model represents a test aircraft, the only weathering Jeff applied was exhaust staining under the wings. Before spraying Alclad II aluminum, he airbrushed a dark steel shade under the wing aft of the inboard engines. Then, he hand-painted Microscale Micro Mask along wing spars and ribs. Once the aluminum finish was on and the masking removed, it produced heat-scarring, which he emphasized with thin smoke airbrushed over the area.
gave me a 1/100 scale 747 kit, that I rediscovered the hobby.” Airliners caught his interest initially, but these days he builds military aircraft, too, as long as they have plenty of color — Wingnut Wings World War I fighters, X-planes, and Blue an informal modeling club. Angels subjects. A retired “I’ve even been able to make airline captain, Jeff lives in it to a few IPMS/USA Santa Barbara, California, Nationals,’ he says. “Life is where he gets together with good!”
Priming: Jeff primes everything to help paint adhere and fill sanding scratches. He airbrushes light gray Mr. Surfacer 1000 unless a white base is needed when he turns to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. “I decant these and may thin them slightly with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner,” Jeff says. He lightly wetsands dry primer with Micromesh 2400- or 3200-grit sanding cloths in preparation for final colors.
www.FineScale.com
17
Straightforward layering techniques give depth to a 32mm bandit
W
hile the Enchantress looks lovely with her striking outit and captivating stance, she’s also a dangerous member of the Black Rose Bandits. Hailing from DGS Games’ Freeblades, this one-piece white metal igure needs a dramatic look that is easy to replicate across the other members of the gang. Even though she wouldn’t be up to collector standards, I thought a black and red scheme would elevate her and make the enemy quake with fear. I used Reaper’s Master Series paints throughout. She may be small, but the Enchantress is no less detailed thanks to the many shadows, midtones, and highlights.
Meet Sue Sue “PaintMinion” Wachowski lives and works in Huntley, Ill. She developed the Miniatures Hobby Events programs for Gen Con and loves painting dragons. Find her work at PaintMinion. com.
18 FineScale Modeler January 2019
1 There’s nothing to pin or putty, so prep is all about filing. I filed along the mold lines, taking extra care with the hair to file with the direction of the sculpted grooves. A few spots, like under the arms, required curved files.
2 The front right side of the coat showed messy file gouges so, working with a very fine grade flexible sanding pad, I smoothed things out. The same pad cleaned around the legs and the end of the sleeves. It’s easier to paint on a smooth base without unintended texture — paint doesn’t cover that up!
3
4
I gave the Enchantress two light coats of Vallejo brush-on primer. Once dry, she was attached to my make-shift handle: an easy-tohold pill bottle filled with rice (making it harder to knock over) and poster putty on the lid.
5 For the eyes, I first darkened them with bronzed skin shadow and a touch of blackened brown. Leaving the edges dark, I painted the eyeballs with pure white. Dark pupils with tiny white dots followed. Lips are violet red mixed with fair shadow; a drop of pure white added to that mixture highlighted the bottom lip. I covered the hair with blackened brown.
7 For midtones, I mixed a dark gray out of pure black and white, thinning it with Winsor & Newton Flow Improver and a brush full of water. It was ready when the paint flowed from the brush in a thin line. I chose dark gray because black hair midtones must be subtle or look more gray than black. Starting at the top, I stroked down, working around the crown.
After a base coat of bronzed skin shadow dried, I focused on highlights: top of the cheekbone, nose, and chin; above the brows and lips; and a bit along the jawline. Highlights are a mix of fair shadow and pure white; the higher the highlight, the more pure white was added to the mix. A thinned glaze of bronzed skin shadow smoothed the layer transitions and took the edge off the white highlights.
6 Think of hair as a helmet, rather than a ton of strands. Black hair still has subtle midtones and a sharp highlight. Imagine your face as the sun and look down on the hair; what you can’t see is shadow, what is closest to your face is highlighted, and everything else is midtone. I first added the shadow color of pure black to the whole head (as well as the pants).
8 Highlights are a lighter gray thinned the same way. With this, I worked around the crown and wherever the hair turns up for waves and curls. Not satisfied with my first try, I brushed glazes of pure black over everything and reapplied the highlights. With that I had all three tones to my liking. The coat was base-coated with HD crimson red. www.FineScale.com
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9
10
Over the crimson went midtones of blood red. Next came highlights of more blood red lightened with fair shadow (used on the skin) and a dab of saffron sunset to keep it from becoming too pink. This went on top of the arms and shoulders and the bottom flare of the coat.
12 Tackling the pants, I grabbed more of that dark gray and hit above the knee, the lower shin, and the back of the calves. I blended everything with a glaze of black and reapplied highlights of dark gray. Still able to see the transitions, I added another glaze.
I then added a glaze of blood red and increased the highlights, keeping in mind that my face was the sun. A glaze is even thinner than a wash and is applied to help blend transitions. If a glaze pools, touch a dry brush tip to it and draw out the excess paint.
13
With black paint in hand, I retouched some of the lining and piping and added a few black strokes to the hair to lessen the white impact â&#x20AC;&#x201D; I wanted shiny black, not gray hair! I painted her hands with the same flesh tones used on her face, highlighting the top and drawing dark lines to separate fingers and add palm creases. 20 FineScale Modeler January 2019
Once satisfied with the red, I cleaned up the piping, edges, and cuffs with thin black. Just like the hair, I highlighted with a dark gray mix of pure black and pure white then applied a much lighter gray on the pipingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest edges.
14
Details were fun! I needed another bright warm hue to combat all the black, so the Enchantress received leather and gold touches. The knapsack at her hip was painted a cream color, and what would be a well-worn brown leather pack at her back was base-coated black.
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11
I continued with a mix of harvest brown, blackened brown, fair shadow, and white. It needed to be warmer so I glazed it with harvest brown, which blended the layers. The gold bits are layers of harvest brown, followed by saffron sunset, and then a point of white.
17 I squirted leaf green and blackened brown on my palette and with a wider brush, randomly mixed and stippled the colors over dried putty on the base. I then added white for random lighter patches. When the paint was dry, I used super-glue gel to add mounds of Woodland modeling grass and rocks.
15 The boots were painted the same way with the same colors as the coat. To make the creases more prominent, I laid lines of blackened brown in the shadows. Glazes of crimson red followed. I applied a black line where the leg and boot meet.
18 The last bit of painting needed was to clean up the space where her hands met the cuffs. A coat of Testors Dullcote sealed the Enchantress leaving her ready to join the Black Rose Bandits for their next grand adventure! FSM
U.S. Navy aircraft
identification markings â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a history Part 1 of 4: The early days are marked by bright colors BY DARREN ROBERTS Grumman F3F-1s of VF-4 from USS Ranger (CV-4) fly over the southern California coast in January 1939. Photo NH 91168 courtesy of the Naval History & Heritage Command.
Very early identification markings are shown on this Lindberg 1/48 scale Curtiss JN-4 Jenny. No specific squadron markings are present. The airplane number is painted on the fuselage side and is repeated on the tail.
Table 1: Squadron Mission Designators F – fighting B – bombing S – scouting T – torpedo / – observation (later became O)
P – patrol M – Marine N – training J – utility R – transport X – experimental
S
ince the beginnings of aviation in the United States, no other branch of service has put more colorful markings on their airplanes than the Navy. hat’s why I enjoy building models of Navy aircraft so much. But I realized that there was much more to the markings than just colorful squadron insignia. From the irst JN-4 Jenny to today’s F-18 Super Hornet, each plane has been identiied by a unique system designed by the Navy. At irst glance, it looks confusing. But after studying it for a bit, it becomes much simpler to see just what the Navy had in mind throughout the years. In this four-part series, I will show the intricacies of those systems work and how they’ve changed over the years. his one covers the early years up until the onset of World War II. Subsequent installments will cover WWII, the 1950s through 1980, and inally modern practices. Following the hodge-podge of markings applied to Navy aircraft in World War I and before standardization in the 1920s, markings were simple and evolving. Aircraft were identiied with the letter A (for airplane) followed by the serial number painted on the fuselage sides. More often than not, however, the “A” was
22 FineScale Modeler January 2019
Table 2: Manufacturer Codes* A – Brewster B – Boeing C – Curtiss D – Douglas F – Grumman G – Great Lakes/Goodyear
H – McDonnell J – North American M – Martin/General Motors U – Vought V - Vultee Y – Consolidated
*These are the most common manufacturers from just before WWII until the identification system was discontinued in 1962. In the early days of aviation, there were numerous companies that came and went. A full list would be too cumbersome to print.
deleted, leaving just the serial number. hat number was repeated in smaller characters on the tail. Most airplanes at this time had a dope or lacquer overcoat to prevent corrosion, which gave the airplane an of-white, cream, or light tan inish. Rudders during this time were vertically striped with blue at the rudder post, white in the middle, and red at the trailing edge. here was no oicial squadron identiication on the airplanes, although many air stations adopted the practice of painting the air station name on the plane. In 1922, a new system was adopted by the Navy that began the evolution of the system that is still in use today. Airplane squadrons were identiied by a V, for “heavier than air” plus a letter that designated the squadron’s mission, such as F for ighting or R for trans-
This scratchbuilt 1/48 scale Curtiss F6C-3 Hawk from VB-1 shows the 1922 side number system. Originally, the side number was also on top of the wing, but this practice was discontinued with the advent of the wing chevrons. The yellow tail is for squadron identification.
These cowls indicate how the aircraft of Section 1 of a squadron would have been painted.
Table 3: Section Identification Colors Section 1 (Planes 1-3) – Insignia Red Section 2 (Planes 4-6) – White Section 3 (Planes 7-9) – True Blue Section 4 (Planes 10-12) – Black Section 5 (Planes 13-15) – Willow Green Section 6 (Planes 16-18) – Lemon Yellow
port (see Table 1). For example, VF-2 was Fighting Squadron 2. hese designations also became part of a new system of aircraft identiication that used a series of numbers and letters separated by dashes on the fuselage, known as side numbers, For example, the third airplane from Bombing Squadron 1 — VB-1 — would have 1-B-3 on the fuselage. A series of letters and numbers also identiied the aircraft man-
ufacturer and type. he irst character designated the aircraft type, the second character identiied what number design it was, the third character identiied the manufacturer (see Table 2), and the fourth character identiied any changes or improvements to the basic design. he Curtiss Hawk was identiied as the F6C-3, which would be the third sub-variant of the sixth ighter design by Curtiss. In the mid-1920s, squadrons started experimenting with adding section colors to their planes. he section leader had the entire cowl painted, the right wing section plane had only the top half of the cowl painted, and the left wing section plane had only the bottom half of the cowl painted. Table 3 shows the colors used to indicate diferent sections. Section colors were also repeated on the fuselage with a vertical band for section leaders only, and on wing tops. he latter was in the form of diagonal bands called chevrons with the point at the leading edge of the wing. If two squadrons flew the same type of aircraft and/or mission, the second squadron would paint the chevrons in reverse, with the point at the trailing edge. Initially, tails were painted in section colors but soon reverted back to identifying the squadron, with every airplane in the squadron having the same color tail regardless of what section colors they were assigned. he Navy quickly adopted this practice and standardized it across the fleet. In 1937, the Navy adopted speciic colors for the tails and horizontal stabilizers which corresponded to the aircraft carrier the air groups were assigned to rather than the squadron identiication (Table 4). Squadron designations were also changed to correspond to the hull number of the carrier they were assigned to and the B and S suixes were removed. Put together, all these chevrons, cowls, tails, and numbers made for a very colorful, if somewhat cumbersome, way of identifying individual planes. www.FineScale.com
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Table 4: Aircraft Carrier Identification Colors
USS Lexington (CV-2) - Lemon Yellow
USS Saratoga (CV-3) - White
USS Ranger (CV-4) - Willow Green
USS Yorktown (CV-5) - Insignia Red
USS Enterprise (CV-6) - True Blue
USS Wasp (CV-7) - Black
This RVHP 1/48 scale Grumman FF-1 from VF-5B has section colors applied to the engine cowl and upper wing in the form of two diagonal stripes known as chevrons. The True Blue stripe on the fuselage and fully painted cowl denote that this is the leader of Section Three. Only section leaders had a fuselage stripe. The blue tail doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t identify the section but rather acts as a squadron identification. The airplane number is repeated on the wing top between the chevrons. The B suffix on the squadron number identified it as part of the Battle Force; an S designated Scouting Force squadrons.
24 FineScale Modeler January 2019
The tail on this Monogram 1/48 scale Douglas TBD Devastator identifies it as being assigned to the USS Yorktown. It is the eleventh plane in Torpedo Squadron 5 (VT-5). The top half of the cowl painted black shows it to be the rightwing plane in Section 4. FSM
Prewar U.S. Navy Model Paint Guide Hataka GSI GSI Aqueous Creos Mr. Color Color
Humbrol LifeColor Mission Models
Aircraft Gray
57
73
HTK-A/B/ 146 C050
Orange (Chrome) Yellow
329
329
HTK-A/B/ 69 C060
MMP-041
MIL-2151
Insignia Red
327
327
HTK-A/B/ 153 C219
MMP-101
MIL-2126
Insignia Blue
326
326
189
Lemon Yellow
4
4
HTK-A/B/ 99 C222
Insignia White
316
316
HTK-A/B/ 22 C049
Willow Green
HTK-A/B/ C221
True Blue
HTK-A/B/ C220
Black Engine Gray
2
2
HTK-A/B/ 21 C041 HTK-A/B/ C030
UA041
MCW
LC35
Revell
MIL-2106
MMP-062
XF-80
MMP-104
36350
MIL-2110
1731
4693
70.989
1707
4683
70.948
XF-7
1705
4714
70.957
X-3
1719
4742
XF-3
2023
4684
X-2
1745
4696
2028
4669
32310
MIL-2111 LC51
Tamiya Testors Testors Vallejo Enamel Acrylic Model Color
32104 32364
MIL-2125 LC72
MMP-047
2000 MIL-2118
X-1
1747
4695
1791
4691
White Xtracolor Ensign 138
71.078
106
AC US 26
103
71.091
AC RN 32
122
70.952
71.002
AC US 29
108
70.918
71.279 71.006
1110TT 32107
Vallejo Model Air
70.861
141 AC US 27
151
71.088
152
71.057
12
71.056
129
www.FineScale.com
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Old kit, old-school build, all fun Building Monogram’s 1/32 scale F3F out of the box BY DARREN ROBERTS
M
ost of us have been in the hobby for a long time; I’m one of the younger modelers I know and I’ve been building for more than 40 years. We cut our teeth on kits from the likes of Aurora, Revell, Frog, and Monogram. hose kits were relatively crude compared to today’s state-of-the-art releases. he amount of putty needed to smooth the seams on any of Tamiya’s new kits is less than one fuselage required on some of those classics! hat notwithstanding, there were some good kits “back in the day” that were enjoyable to build. Sometimes it’s fun to take a trip down memory lane, pull one of those kits of the shelf, and let the 26 FineScale Modeler January 2019
nostalgia wash over you in wave after glorious wave as childhood comes flooding back with each snip of a part of the sprue. One such kit was Monogram’s 1/32 scale Grumman F3F-3, irst released back in 1960 (before I was even born). Like other kits from Monogram during that time period, it has working features, including the rather complex landing gear — just the thing for a young pilot to be able to take of, fly around the room, and come back in for a landing. I decided it was time for a “nostalgia build” of this kit, working parts and all. I began with the intricate mechanisms for the landing gear.
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2
I wanted the gear teeth to mesh together properly, so I used a folded piece of sandpaper to make sure there was no flash between them.
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To keep the moving parts from becoming misplaced, I glued small pieces of sheet styrene to lock the mechanism in place and prevent any slippage after the fuselage was closed up.
5 One way to get this detail back is to run a hobby knife along the raised panel line and over the area that was sanded off. This creates a lip of plastic along the cut that resembles a raised line, and under paint, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never know the difference.
The landing gear mechanism was put together and glued to the inside of the fuselage halves.
The interior of the fuselage as well as the cockpit were sprayed with Alclad II aluminum and glued together. The join required sanding, which eradicated the petit raised detail along the spine.
6 With the fuselage together, I attached the lower wings. To ensure a good fit, I cut away the locating tab on the wings â&#x20AC;Ś
7 â&#x20AC;Ś and sanded the mating surface to get the best fit. This prevented gaps and avoided me having to apply putty, which in turn protected the surface detail from damage caused by sanding the filler clean up.
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Time to paint: I wanted to preserve a constant color under the silver, so I masked off any area that would be silver on the tail before I sprayed red.
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Engine painting: cylinders Testors Model Master burnt metal then drybrushed Floquil old silver; gaps between the cylinders Model Master acrylic engine gray; crankcase Model Master acrylic medium gray.
12 The final result was surprisingly decent for an out-of-the-box effort. The front portion of the cowling was painted with Mr. Color Semi-Gloss black, the engine and cowling were attached, and the black was masked off in preparation for the silver paint. 28 FineScale Modeler January 2019
When the red was dry, I removed the mask from the silver areas and applied tape to cover the red areas.
The exhaust pipes were weathered with Tamiya rust weathering powder and the ends were opened with a drill bit in a pin vise.
13 The kit was designed for the wheels to be attached with a heated knife to melt the plastic axle and make it bigger than the hole in the wheel. I wanted more realistic wheels, so I cut off the end of the axles and glued the pieces into holes in the wheels.
14 When the glue was completely dry, I sanded the inserts so they protruded just a hair above the surface of the wheel and replicated the axle cover on the full-size fighter.
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Navy planes at this time were painted with silver lacquer. The saltwater would not have been kind to a natural-metal surface. To match the look of the silver lacquer, I sprayed the entire model with Alcald II aluminum.
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Before silver, I sprayed the top of the upper wing with Model Master acrylic chrome yellow making sure the color wrapped the leading edge.
19 After applying the national insignia to the underside of the lower wing, I used a chrome silver paint pen to draw on the lens of a light.
Removing the masks revealed the black and red to good effect. I painted the tires and put on the braces between the horizontal stabilizers and tail.
For me, decals bring a model to life. I marked the plane for Fighter Squadron 5 with a set of Yellow Wings Decals, which worked beautifully. The kit decals were past their prime and not-quite accurate.
20 Then, I attached the upper wing but left off the struts to make rigging the model easier.
21 For rigging, another modeler suggested I try EZ Line. A small drop of super glue holds the elastic line in place almost instantly. Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers and a toothpick, I successfully rigged the tubby little Grumman fighter. www.FineScale.com
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22 Now it was time to have some fun and relive my childhood glory! Up went the landing gear to go along with the spinning propeller and I was off into the sky, complete with airplane noises. That came to an abrupt halt when my teenage daughters looked at me like I was crazy. To her credit, my wife didn’t say anything — she’s used to it by now. 30 FineScale Modeler January 2019
“Now it was time to have some fun and relive my childhood... That came to an abrupt halt when my teenage daughters looked at me like I was crazy.”
The colorful markings of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;yellow wingâ&#x20AC;? era are on full display on the finished model. The side number on the fuselage shows that this F3F is from Fighting Squadron 5 and is the 10th aircraft in the squadron. The black fuselage band and fully painted cowling mark it as the section leader for the 4th section. Finally, the red tail designates that the squadron is assigned to the USS Yorktown. FSM
Pride of the
French Navy Improve HobbyBossâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; impressive 1/350 scale Dunkerque BY ULF LUNDBERG
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A
llons enfants de la Patrie! Yes, I actually sang La Marseillaise when I irst laid my hands on HobbyBoss’ 1/350 scale Dunkerque. It’s one of the best ship kits I’ve built. his kit can represent the ship at diferent times in its career. I needed to make up my mind before beginning so that I could drill out the
1 The important parts of the superstructure are slide-molded, with good surface detail. They come together like a song and a dance, sparing the modeler both sanding and filling.
proper locators for the anti-aircraft (AA) guns before gluing the deck (they moved several times over the years). I chose a pre-war Dunkerque. he books, French Battleships 1922-1956 by John Jordan and Robert Dumas as well as Histoire et Navires nr 27 Dunkerque st Strasbourg by Philippe Caresse are excellent references.
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The hull is molded in one piece, also with fine surface detail. I strengthened it with longitudinal bulkheads, secured to the brass posts on its stand. Now I can take it anywhere.
The fit between the hull and deck parts is excellent. Here is all the putty needed to achieve perfect seams.
While it usually takes me six months to finish a battleship, Dunkerque went together in four and a half — proof of its high-quality craftsmanship. All I did was tinker with the details.
4 I improved the props by sanding the blade edges sharp. Here, the one on the right has been worked on â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it makes a difference!
7 I needed to improve the level of detail on the inside of the row boats. Temporarily securing the boats to a block of wood made them much easier to hold while working.
10 After painting, I fitted the row boats with photo-etched (PE) oars from White Ensign. The boats occupy a prominent place so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth the effort to improve them.
13 The secondary armament was also detailed. I beefed up the cylinders at the barrel ends with .3mm PE to fill out the openings and then added hatches of PE, too. 34 FineScale Modeler January 2019
5 A weakness was the boat cradles; they were molded as solid pieces with the upper deck. To help them out, I drilled holes, then cut away excess plastic. It pays to have a sharp knife.
8 I fitted scribed styrene floorboards and .3mm styrene thwarts. Left to right: empty hull with thinned hull sides; floorboards and ledgers to support the thwarts; all the thwarts in place.
11 I sanded the turret surfaces flat and sharpened the corners. Note the small tripod on the roof of the left turret.
14 While the barrels for the 13mm AA guns are well molded, they were too thick. After an heroic, but failed attempt at scratchbuilding, I sanded them with narrow strips of sandpaper.
6 Finished! This was a tricky job so I practiced on the inner, less visible boat cradles first. Really, only the outer ones can be seen on the finished models.
9 On the motor boats, I drilled and cut out the portholes and windows. Much better.
12 Scribed seams of the armor plates on the roofs added interest. Before the war, openings for the main guns were partially covered with hatches, which I made using .3mm styrene.
15 Because I wanted a pre-war ship, I needed to scratchbuild one extra 37mm AA mount out of PE and brass tubes from Albion Alloys.
16 Other improvements included drilling out the boat cranes …
19 I then drilled the corresponding holes into the superstructure and dry-fitted everything carefully.
22 The deck was painted in four different shades of bleached teak of my own mixing. I masked individual planks between each coat. Some patience required.
25 The second coat was a lighter gray. Note the streak of dirt brown along the waterline.
17 … and sculpting new styrene fairleads for the tip of the stem.
20 Painting: I primed with Games Workshop’s Citadel Chaos black then base-coated the underwater hull with random patterns of red, brown, and green from Schmincke Aero Color.
23 Here is the finished deck. You can see the subtle variations of bleached teak.
26 And here is the third coat. After removing the masking, I fine tuned the paint job with ultra thin coats until I was satisfied with the overall impression.
18 To stiffen the outriggers for the bridge tower and attach them securely, I strengthened them with .5mm piano wire. The stumps sticking out fit in holes drilled into the tower.
21 Over that I sprayed thin, transparent layers of red brown; lighter ones near the waterline, darker ones lower down.
24 The first coat of paint to go on the hull above the waterline was a patchy dark gray.
27 After the paint dried, I glued the subassemblies to the deck. Rigging: I used black fly-tying line for the cage antennas.
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28 These cage antennas were a real challenge of the build. I made a jig from a piece of wood and some scrap plastic with holes drilled out for the antenna line.
31 One cut through a spiral spring provides all the rings needed. During the rigging stage, I studied Histoire et Navires nr 27 intently to get it just right.
34 I added all of the rings. The example here is using tinted white glue, but on the real antennas I used super glue.
37 I cut off the excess with sharp scissors. I have a Tamiya cutter that I use only to cut rigging. Long loose ends on both ends of the finished antenna make for easier mounting. 36 FineScale Modeler January 2019
29 Four lines were taped to the jig. They have to be stretched equally or the antenna will be crooked. I stretched them all with the same weight: a pair of locking tweezers.
32 To fit the rings, I applied a drop of glue (tinted here) to the upper two lines. I placed each ring with tweezers, only succeeding some of the time. Deep breaths and persistence were key.
35 To make the cone shapes on the ends of the antennas, I wrapped a piece of line around the four horizontal lines and made an overhand knot, â&#x20AC;Ś
38 The finished antenna. It will warp slightly when you take it out of the jig, but stretching it gently when you mount it fixes that. This is why you need stiff outriggers and supports.
30 The rings are made of blackened copper wire wound in a tight spiral around the butt end of a drill bit. I used the same drill that created the holes in the jig.
33 To secure the ring, I glued it to the lower lines as well. A piece of stretched sprue worked well as an applicator.
36 â&#x20AC;Ś pulling it tight and securing it with a drop of glue.
39 I mounted the antennas before gluing guns, range finders, and searchlights in place. This lessened the risk of the antennas snagging on something while being mounted. Done!
Standing before the finished model of the pride of the French Navy, there is only one thing to do: Stand to attention and sing La Marseillaise.
FSM
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SHOW GALLERY
IPMS/USA National Convention 2018 It was hot outside in Phoenix, Arizona, in August, but there were a ton of cool models inside the convention center for the 2018 IPMS/USA National Convention. Among the more than 3,400 scale creations were straight out-of-the-box projects and 100% scratchbuilt masterpieces. FSM editors Mark Savage and Aaron Skinner hit the floor and photographed many of them; here are just a few. The 2019 show lands in Chattanooga, Tennessee, August 7-10. You can learn more, register for the show, and book your rooms at www.ipmsnationals.com. We’ll see you there!
JAMES SIGMAN TRACY, CALIFORNIA Inspired by his brother, Mike’s, service on A-6As during the Vietnam era, James built Trumpeter’s 1/32 scale Intruder. He scratchbuilt a cockpit and engines for the A-6E and painted it with Testors enamels over a pre-shaded base coat.
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JAMES RIZZO LAS VEGAS, NEVADA Inspired by photos of disruptive camouflage on U.S Navy littoral ships, James masked Bronco’s 1/350 scale USS Freedom with Frisket paper and painted it with Testors Model Master acrylics. His only addition to the kit was stretched sprue antennas.
▲ RANDY PAVATTE
▲ GERALD TAKAHASHI
HOUSTON, TEXAS
DISCOVERY BAY, CALIFORNIA
Deciding that FeR Miniatures’ 1/8 scale Baerkrom needed a little bling, Randy added earrings made from wire. He painted the fantasy warrior with Humbrol and Testors enamels.
Nature always wins, indeed! Gerald imagined the aftermath of a battle in the Maschinen Krieger universe with Wave’s 1/20 scale Rally Pawn armored fighting suit lying destroyed among burgeoning flora. He sculpted the skull of the unfortunate soldier from two-part epoxy.
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SHOW GALLERY
▲ JOHN ROBINSON
NEWMARKET, ONTARIO, CANADA Combining two Italeri 1/72 scale DUKWs and RS Models’ early P-38, John modeled an experimental aircraft transport tested by the U.S. Navy in Charleston Harbor in 1943. The frame joining the ducks is scratchbuilt and Charles made a few modifications to the Lightning and the amphibious vehicles to match photos. The seascape is acrylic gel over ½-inch foam painted with the finished models in situ.
RANDY ROTHHAAR LAS VEGAS, NEVADA Randy did a ton of work to convert Academy’s 1/35 scale Blackhawk to a U.S. Navy HH-60H Rescue Hawk, including: a scratchbuilt interior and rotor head; folded blades and tail; refined surface detail; and a navalized fuselage. It's painted with Testors enamels.
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▲ BOB MEYERS
CASTRO VALLEY, CALIFORNIA It’s always good to see an Aussie flag on the contest tables. In this case, it graced Bob’s 1/35 scale ASLAV-25. He added an aftermarket camouflage net and stowage to the bustle rack on the turret and painted the Australian army camouflage with Tamiya acrylics. For weathering, he used Ammo by Mig Jimenez Oil Brushers for washes as well as pigments and filters.
◀ LLARRY AMROSE
TEMPE, ARIZONA The Spanish Inquisition? We didn’t expect to see this at the show, but there it was thanks to Llarry who finished Victoria Miniatures’ 28mm figures of the Monty Python players with Vallejo acrylics over Citadel black primer. He didn’t mention having to do anything special to paint the soft cushion.
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SHOW GALLERY TIM LACAPRA SPRING HILL, TENNESSEE Rather than building a show-ready truck, Tim completed AMT’s 1/25 scale White Freightliner as a well-used prime mover using artist’s oils and pastels.
▶ BRIAN KRUEGER
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA A Five Star upgrade set provided turned-metal barrels and photoetched railings, splinter shields, gun tubs, and more to detail Trumpeter’s 1/700 scale USS South Dakota. Brian added scratchbuilt brass-rod masts and painted the battleship with White Ensign lacquers.
Want to see more? Go to www.FineScale.com for three videos from the 2018 IPMS/USA National Convention. Several of the attendees tell you about their models! 42 FineScale Modeler January 2019
▲ NEAL IZUMI
HONOLULU, HAWAII After accurizing the tire tread and refining fine details on Halcyon’s 1/35 scale Colonial Marine armored personnel carrier from the 1986 film, Aliens, Neal preshaded and painted it with Testors Model Master enamels. He installed LEDs in the headlights and spotlight because they mostly come at night. Mostly. ◀ GEORGE L. JOHNSON
BEAVERTON, OREGON Applying Uschi van der Rosten wood-grain decals to ZoukeiMura’s 1/32 scale Horten Ho 229, George modeled a partially assembled German flying wing in storage. Other improvements to the kit include scratchbuilt seat belts and a resin combustion chamber for the exposed engine.
▶ CHARLES STONE
CONVERSE, TEXAS After rescribing raised surface detail and adding a resin cockpit to Airfix’s 1/48 scale Saab JA-37 Viggen, Charles painted it with Vallejo acrylics. Weathering was applied with a pencil and washes. The unique markings are for a Swedish air force flight demonstration aircraft.
Build a ‘Grace’ful
torpedo bomber References help take guesswork from paint schemes BY FRANK CUDEN
Frank says two key references helped him recreate a realistic Japanese B7N2 “Grace.”
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he impetus for my latest build, the 1/72 scale Sword Aichi B7N2 Ryusei Kai “Grace” (No. 72069) really began in the 1970s. hat’s when I became aware of two reference books — the reference books at the time — on Japanese army and navy aircraft. heir author was Donald W. horpe. Many references have come along since, including a ine article in IPMS/Canada’s Random Thoughts, Vol. 26, No. 1, entitled “Camouflage of World War II Japanese Aircraft,” by Tennessee Katsuta. hat article and horpe’s books helped me make this Grace look right, at least as right as historic photos and considerable research allow. horpe’s books, for instance, featured 44 FineScale Modeler January 2019
printed camouflage and markings colors used by all Japanese aircraft manufacturers. here are chapters on special markings, speciications for camouflaging all Japanese aircraft types, instructional markings, as well as leading-edge markings, victory markings and everything in between. he Katsuta article emphasized the complexity of attempting to come up with deinitive information regarding Japanese camouflage, especially late in the war, which is when the Grace appeared. Labeling the various colors in spread-sheet fashion, he identiies the colors in conjunction with the Federal Standard 595B color number references and identiies the camouflage colors by manufacturer. his would be as close as I could get.
I’ve begun placing a thin plastic sandwich bag over my hand when handling a model that is in its final build stages. This prevents finger oils and other unwanted crud from transferring to the painted surface.
1 I began by enhancing the detailed cockpit, adding thin wire and plastic shapes to the kit parts. My thought was to make minor additions keeping this pretty close to an outof-the-box build.
2 Next, I sprayed the cockpit with my mix of interior green as indicated by the Thorpe book. It’s close to U.S. interior green, created by lightening a tinlet of out-of-production Humbrol Authenic Colour Japanese army aircraft green, with a few drops of white and yellow. Then it was on to detail painting.
3 To compensate for minimal locating pins on the fuselage halves, I added a couple pieces of white scrap plastic on the bottom left fuselage half to reinforce the joins. I couldn’t find cockpit drawings, so assumed the “pole” in the rear cockpit was a bomb and torpedo aiming device.
Exhaust pipes
4 Before fuselage assembly, I added Eduard’s 1/72 scale aftermarket “Super Fabric” IJN seat and shoulder belts (No. 73024). Then, I airbrushed the engine with Floquil engine black and dry-brushed the cylinder fins with Testors steel; gray covers the crankcase. I used Squadron White Putty to eliminate fuselage and wing seams.
5 The nubs that stick out on the right fuselage are exhausts. Four additional exhaust pipes are provided and I cut them off the sprue on a piece of drafting tape folded over on itself. This guarantees that the small parts will not launch into the unknown when cut loose.
7 I improved the torpedo’s propulsion unit by fashioning contra-rotating screws from .010inch sheet plastic. Making two circles, I removed excess plastic that produced two equal screws and then gluing a spacer between the two produced screw separation. An end shaft cap was rounded and cut and then glued in the center of the outside screw.
6 Here you can see two of the four. I also installed the chin intake. Thinned white glue, applied to the seams of both the exhaust pipe stubs and the intake served to eliminate the gaps.
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Next I masked the torpedo nose and sprayed it with Floquil engine black. The remainder was sprayed with Alclad II Duralumin. The screws were hand-brushed with Testors Model Master brass.
Once satisfied the airframe seams had been eliminated, I sprayed them all with Alclad II gray primer and set it aside to dry. www.FineScale.com
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10 At that point, the bomber’s undersides were given a coat of Floquil old silver, wheel wells included. Duplicating the Japanese Navy Aotake primer painting process for the wheel wells, I later masked and sprayed them with a thin coat of Tamiya clear blue.
13 … the Paper Tac sticks well and does not leave a residue when removed. You can see too how the tac accepts Tamiya tape.
16 The results for the upper surfaces are starting to look like I’d envisioned.
11 Thorpe’s book indicates the Japanese left the undersides of new Grace’s wings in natural metal late in the war. Earlier, they were painted IJN light gray. So I airbrushed a few panels with Duralumin and dull aluminum. Ailerons and elevators received a coat of white aluminum.
14 And here are the results. My old Binks airbrush could not get the fine line I wanted so the Paper Tac was a good alternative.
17 I used out-of-production AeroMaster A/N ID orange yellow on the masked sections of the wing leading edges. The Thorpe book said ID stripes were painted with two thirds of the yellow showing on top and one third on the bottom. I masked and airbrushed accordingly. Then, I masked and painted a few panels with the lightened Euro green mix.
References Japanese Naval Air Force Camouflage and Markings World War II, Donald W. Thorpe, Aero Publishers Inc, 1977, ISBN 978-0-8168-6587-1 “Camouflage of World War II Japanese Aircraft,” Tennessee Katsuta, IPMS/Canada’s, Random Thoughts, Vol. 26, No. 1,
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12 Upper surfaces were airbrushed with a darkened mix of Testors Model Master Euro green (FS No. 34092), a close match to the Aichi color specs in Thorpe’s book. To obtain a tight feathered edge between the green and natural metal, I used Ace Hardware’s Paper Tac.
15 Time then to mask and spray the upper control surfaces with a lightened version of Euro green.
18 Now that I no longer had to handle the model frequently, I began adding homemade cowl flaps, as I wanted to display them in the open position. I applied a strip of black decal over the indented cowl flap locations on the cowling. The black decal, after receiving a coat of clear flat, would give the illusion of depth, once the flaps were in place. Using the cowl flap indentation panel lines as a guide, I made new ones from .005-inch styrene sheet, painting the flaps black on the inside and Euro green on the outside. I attached them with Gator’s Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. Thin super glue later secured them.
19 To reduce the contrast of the lightened panels, I sprayed a thin coat of Euro green over the wing’s upper surfaces. Then disaster struck: Unscrewing the green paint’s bottle cap, it flew off, my hand shifted, and paint somehow splashed onto the left wing.
22 Here you see the effect of the thin overcoat of old silver on the underside, blending the accented panels together. I drew panel lines on the top and bottom of the model using a “B” soft-lead pencil. The exhaust pipe stubs received a coat of Floquil antique bronze.
20 Luckily, none of the paint reached that wing’s yellow leading-edge ID stripe. I immediately wiped off the excess and let the paint dry.
23 I glued the torpedo onto the model and made a directional antenna loop from thin copper wire. Wheels and landing-gear doors also were added, along with kit decals. The white stripes on the horizontal tail were aiming points for the rear gunner’s position and were included on the kit decal sheet.
21 After sanding, masking, and re-spraying, it was as good as new. I then picked out various access panels on the upper wings using the original darkened Euro green.
24 Adding the vacuum-formed canopy sections was next. Here we see them before they were trimmed …
25 … and now they are glued in place. First the horizontal frames, and then the vertical frames were masked and hand-painted. I brushed interior green on them first. When dry I handbrushed camouflage green. I also added a few drops of Floquil caboose red to roof brown to obtain the correct propeller color. Data decals for the prop were on the kit sheet. I further highlighted the wing panels with light green pastel dust.
26 I finished with a soft cloth to reduce wing panel pastel weathering effect and created dissimilar panel highlights with ultra-thin overcoats. This reduced the contrast and blended them. I highlighted a few panel lines around the cowling with black pastel dust and a few rivet heads with a silver pencil. Finally, I used thin fishing line for the antenna wire. FSM www.FineScale.com
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Weathering a Type 96 Chips, rust, sand, and mud for the Chinese ZTZ-96B main battle tank BY ADAM WILDER
Often referred to as the Type 96, the Chinese main battle tank is designated as the ZTZ-96 under a newer PLA naming system.
O
ver the years Meng has become one of my favorite manufacturers. When I saw its new 1/35 scale Chinese ZTZ-96B MBT kit (No. TS-034), I immediately took an interest because it was fresh and a bit diferent (not to mention it featured attractive box art). he instruction booklet contained colored camouflage illustrations to choose from. One of the examples was a training vehicle with a
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temporary light sand paint scheme, like those used by the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Liberation Army (PLA) in a training Biathlon in early summer 2017. For ease of painting and weathering, I left some of the larger components separate during construction, such as the running gear, machine gun, and skirts. Once everything else was assembled I could begin the inish. I painted with Real Color acrylic lacquers from AK-Interactive throughout.
1 Using Quick Mask Red and a small paintbrush, I protected all of the areas where glue would need to be applied for the final assembly.
3 For the green gun, I thinned a mix of pale sand, pure green, and blue. I waited for the primer to dry before adding decals.
5 Thin layers of Solvaset were brushed on to make the sliced markings sit properly. Happy with the appearance, I airbrushed a few coats of clear.
7 To tone down the vibrant hue, I added a dark green oil wash over the gun and other green details.
2 I primed the photo-etch (PE) and airbrushed the base coats. The tankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s base is a thin mix of flat white, desert sand, and yellow.
4 I applied decals using tap water to help them glide. A sharp hobby knife sliced through them over the seams.
6 I applied dark brown washes over the tank, then removed excess with enamel thinner on a paintbrush. A paper towel kept the brush clean.
8 Pinwashes applied around details, seams, and bolts created shadows and enhanced the tankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance. www.FineScale.com
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9 I removed excess oils on the surface with a fine paintbrush. Pinwashes were the most time-consuming part because oils can take days to dry.
11 I have a four-step chipping process. Step 1: I sponge on acrylic a shade lighter than the paint. This layer is heavier on the lower hull.
13 Step 3: I dab green on the same areas to show where the outer, sandcolored paint had been chipped away to reveal the underlying camo.
15 To weather the rubber skirts, I masked each section and randomly airbrushed thin, large patches of green. 50 FineScale Modeler January 2019
10 See how careful washes enhance side skirts. They look heavy here, but the chips and dirt to come will blend and soften the contrast.
12 Step 2: Larger, random chips of the same light acrylic are created with a 3/0 brush.
14 Step 4: Brown over the green shows rusted steel. I blend those spots with washes of rust-colored oils. I used lighter layers of the same steps higher.
16 I removed the tape and airbrushed a thin layer of the same light acrylic used over the chips. A fine paintbrush added sharper green scratches â&#x20AC;Ś
17 â&#x20AC;Ś with gray rubber spots inside to complete the chipping. Before adding dirty pigments, I airbrushed the track with brown (not shown).
19 A damp paintbrush blended the dry earth into the other layers. Aqualine acrylics dry quickly to a flat finish.
21 Speckling dry earth onto the lower hull, wheels, and tracks blended the muddled earth tones.
23 Brushing dry pigments over some of the blended areas of dry earth added more tone and texture to the coat of dust.
18 For dust on the lower hull and running gear, I brushed on Wilder Aqualine dry earth, an acrylic that can be reactivated with water.
20 The upper hull and turret received the same dry earth blended with a damp brush.
22 Thinning Aqualine dry earth with water, I brushed vertical lines onto vertical surfaces to create rain marks. A damp brush blended the lines.
24 Another speckling of pigment went onto the wheels. This completed the dry portion of the weathering. www.FineScale.com
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25 I mixed Wilder Nitroline products, pigments, and enamel thinner and brushed the sludge onto wheels. More thinner blended the deposits.
27 Brushing and blending the damp earth mix over the largest areas of dry earth dust, I added texture and depth to the weathering.
29 To simulate worn steel around the drive sprocket and outer edges of the tracks, I used True Metal steel-colored wax from AK-Interactive.
31 Once the tank was assembled, I applied more murky water onto the lower parts of the skirts and hull with vertical strokes. 52 FineScale Modeler January 2019
26 A flick of the same damp earth mix over the wheels made them appear more natural.
28 Using Nitroline Murky Water Wet Effect, I created areas of accumulated rain on the upper hull and wet mud on the wheels and lower hull.
30 After wiping excess on a piece of paper, I used my finger to rub the steel wax onto the tracks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kind of like dry-brushing.
32 Wilder Gunpowder Line black pigment added a layer of soot to the exhaust.
The PLA keeps their AFVs very clean, so I received some flak for weathering this model as much as I did. Still, I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but like the look of a well-used piece of armor. FSM
The ZTZ-96 weighs in at 94,357.85 pounds, or 42.8 metric tons.
READER GALLERY
ADAM NICHOLS MADISON, WISCONSIN Building Tamiya’s 1/48 scale Razorback P-47D to depict Lt. Frank Oiler’s plane Eileen, Adam added True Detail resin wheels and Master brass gun barrels. He made a spark-plug harness and plumbed the engine with fine wire. Elastic thread, airbrushed black, served as antenna wire. Adam painted mostly with Testors Model Master and Tamiya colors, and used pastels for various stains. He says, “Thanks to my dad and grandfather for piquing my interest in World War II and aviation.” ▶ STEVE LUCKINBILL
MERIDIAN, IDAHO Steve writes: “It’s Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale A6M2 Type 0 Model 21 (Zeke). This one was captured by the RAF arm of the Allied Technical Air Intelligence Units, Southeast Asia, 1946.” Steve achieved the Pacific-battered finish by applying a base coat of Testors Model Master aluminum followed by AK-Interactive chipping fluid, then Tamiya acrylic for the soon-to-be beat-up top coat.
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▲ GARRICK BELIARIS
PEARL CITY, HAWAII “This depicts the last U.S. Marine Corps Prowler to serve on an aircraft carrier,” says Garrick, who built Monogram’s 1/48 scale EA-6B and used Aeromaster decals.
▲ JASON VUKOVICH
BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON Just building HobbyBoss’ 1/35 scale M1070 HET (heavy equipment transporter) from the box was plenty for Jason: “It’s a big kit with a zillion parts,” he says. “Not an easy kit, with something like 40 wheel assemblies for the trailer alone. It is still awaiting an M1A1 I will be building, so blocking, bracing, and chains are yet to be installed.” ◀ LARRY BALL
STEVENS POINT, WISCONSIN Larry kitbashed Tamiya’s 1/35 scale PzKpfw IV Ausf D and FlaK 36, calling the result “Marder IV, 1941.” He explains, “During the invasion of France, in the British counterattack at Arras, Rommel learned that the only cannon that could penetrate thick armor was the 88. Thus, a self-propelled gun on a reworked early PzKpfw IV chassis would be a logical response.” www.FineScale.com
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READER GALLERY
▲ CHRIS FILTZ
WAUSAU, WISCONSIN After painting Revell’s 1/50 scale Viking long ship with craft paints and rigging it with sewing thread, Chris punched out center holes in each shield decal for fit. He built the ship in a day and says it went together perfectly. ▶ JEREMIAS LUCHINA
YERBA BUENA, TUCUMAN, ARGENTINA Heller’s 1/48 scale Super Étendard was finished in a Fuerza Aérea Argentina Falklands War scheme by Jeremias. He added Aerocalcas Argentinas decals and a NeOmega cockpit set.
56 FineScale Modeler January 2019
◀ CARMEL J. ATTARD
MOSTA, MALTA Building Wings 72’s vacuumformed 1/72 scale Nakajima E8N “Dave,” Carmel added a windscreen, resin gun, bombs and racks, an aluminum prop, new exhaust pipes, boarding steps, and rigging. He scratchbuilt the cradles and racks from sheet styrene according to drawings by Jim Schubert. The Japanese floatplane was based in the Aleutians, but Carmel obviously preferred posing it closer to home.
▶ RYAN YOUNG
OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA Eduard photo-etch, RB Models’ barrel and 2m aerial, and Friulmodel metal tracks grace Ryan’s Tiger Ausf E. He painted with Tamiya acrylics, including markings that were shot through Alliance Modelworks metal stencils. Dot filtering and AK-Interactive streaking grime helped age his early Tiger. Ryan, on the other hand, is a relatively late-production modeler — he is a 21-year-old college student.
◀ RAUL CORRAL
ROMANSHORN, SWITZERLAND “This amazing and radical design was ready to fly in 1945?” writes Raul, who wouldn’t believe it if he hadn’t seen photos that showed two Ho 229s almost ready and one being tested by the end of the war. He says Revell’s 1/72 scale kit had its challenges but none insurmountable. “At the end you get this incredible plane,” he says. He painted it all in RLM 70 black green with light shadows of RLM 83. “I liked the dark appearance — like from a Batman movie!“ he says.
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits
AFV Club M54 loaded with detail
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he M54 series of 5-ton trucks was developed in the late 1950s as a replacement for the M39. Initially powered by a gasoline engine, the M54A1 introduced in 1962 had a diesel power plant; AFV Clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kit represents the M54A2 launched in 1964 with a multifuel engine. M54s could haul 5 tons of cargo over any terrain; on paved roads the load could be increased to 10 tons. he trucks were used throughout the Vietnam conflict by the Army and Marine Corps. AFV Clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kit is actually the M54A2C truck, with C indicating a cargo bed with hinged drop-down sides for unloading 58 FineScale Modeler January 2019
cargo the sides and rear. he olive-green plastic parts show excellent detail with ine mold seams. A few shallow ejector-pin marks are present as are some sink marks, most notably in the bed. hey are subtle and, I think, give the bed a worn appearance. he tires/wheels are molded in plastic and show brand logos as well as sidewall data. I was especially impressed with the molding of the canvas cab roof and bed cover. hin clear plastic provides the windscreen and side windows as well as headlight lenses. A small decal sheet supplies markings for three trucks and instruments and plac-
ards for the cab. A photo-etched (PE) fret adds the exhaust shield, winch hook, bed chain hooks, and ittings for the rear cargo strap. A small length of chain is also provided. Although the frame is a multipart assembly, I had no trouble keeping it square and flat. Only the lower parts of the engine and transmission are included. I was a little confused by the front axle assembly. At irst I thought they had the inner wheel hubs (B20, B21) reversed until I igured out that you needed to work these over pins on the axles. his allows the front wheels to pivot. While they are movable you will need to ix
them in one position when adding the steering linkage as that must be glued. he wheel hubs trap polycaps to hold the wheels. here is a tiny bit of play in the it of the wheels and hubs, but that ensures all 10 wheels hit the ground. Don’t attach the fender supports (A17, A18) until after the cab for proper it with the fenders. I left of the tools and jerry can for painting. he decals for the dash responded well to Microscale decal solutions; I added a drop of Pledge Floor Gloss for instrument glass. I left of the top, clear parts,
and the mirrors until painting was done. AFV Club only provides the thin rear hood stripe as a decal. Rather than trying to match the yellow, I painted the nose of the hood with Tamiya yellow, then masked the stripe and nose before painting the hood. he cargo box goes together quickly and easily. he side extensions have wood grain molded on both sides. Perhaps the most diicult part of the model was adding the PE bed chains and cargo strap. he chain hooks go into slots on the bed, but the forward ones weren’t recessed and the tailgate interferes with rear hooks. I cheated and attached them to the frame. Getting the strap
the right length was challenging. I painted the model with Tamiya acrylics. he decals went on well over Tamiya clear. he white decals are a bit translucent but since they went over solid colors they look ine. Since there are extra PE buckles, I used one with strips of notebook paper to make a strap for the jerry can. he canvas top was painted Tamiya khaki followed by a Tamiya dark brown panel wash. After drybrushing it with dark yellow, I applied Tamiya brown panel wash. he mirrors were done with Bare-Metal Foil and I used Mylar ilm behind the headlights and reflector he windshields were glued in place with pressure-sensitive adhesive. he side windows didn’t it flush with the windshield, so I omitted them; it was not uncommon to see them rolled down in Vietnam. I spent about 28 hours building my M54A2. he inished model matched perfectly the dimensions found on the truck’s technical manual seen on Google books. While the kit does have some challenges, I think any modeler with a few years of experience could do it justice. It’s great to inally have an M54. A few unused parts in the kit hint at more to come. I suspect AFV Club will do a guntruck version, but I would love to see a dump truck or wrecker. – John Plzak
Kit: No. 35300 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: AFV Club, www.hobbyfan.com.tw Price: $69.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 513 parts (28 PE, 6 vinyl, chain, string), decals Pros: Molded plastic tires; vinyl polycaps for the wheels; decal dials; well molded canvas top and tilt; clear headlight lenses Cons: Lack of full engine and transmission
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS
Dora Wings Messerschmitt Bf 109A/B
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he Messerschmitt Bf 109 ighter irst saw service during the 1937 Spanish Civil War and was still in service, in one form or another, into the 1960s with the Spanish air force. Yet there were many small diferences in the early versions of the ighter and that’s where this kit hits its mark. Dora Wings’ 1/48 scale kit is of the A/B series, the irst in the long line of Bf 109 ighters. he kit comprises eight plastic sprues — seven gray and one clear — plus resin, photo-etched (PE) metal, and a small sheet of ilm. he 8-page instruction manual comprises 19 steps, plus color drawings.
Kit: No. DW 48009 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: Dora Wings, www.dorawings.com Price: $49.99 Comments: Injectedmolded, 146 parts (10 resin, 41 PE), decals Pros: Choice of A/B versions; good fits; all control surfaces separate Cons: Some instructions/color callouts vague; no locator pins on fuselage halves; resin wheels not cast well; tires have hollow spots
60 FineScale Modeler January 2019
Decals provide three marking options and there’s a set of masks for the canopy. he kit is molded in slightly soft, gray plastic, which makes trimming parts from the sprues without breaking small parts easy. Look carefully though as part numbers on the sprues are small. I had to sand flash from some parts, but the overall level of detail is good and the its are nice throughout. Figuring out the placement of some of the cockpit’s PE pieces took a bit of time as the instructions are vague. So I deviated from the instructions and glued the cockpit side panels to the fuselage sides irst, then assembled the rest of the cockpit details. Sadly, there were no locator pins for the fuselage halves, so be careful when you meld the two together. Plus I found the clear parts were a bit thick. Fit the cowl pieces one at a time before gluing; this will save you a lot of headaches and time. I appreciated that the engine was molded with the fuselage halves, engineering that speeds the build and avoids alignment problems. I test-itted the exhausts (parts D15, G-2, and G-4) to the cowl, but left them of for painting. he wing-to-fuselage it was nearly perfect and I used just a dab of iller on the wing leading edge. All the control surfaces are separate and posable. Optional nose sections and props account for diferences between the A and B variants. Testing showed they all it well.
A large hollow spot marred the resin wheels, but it was easy to repair with putty and super glue. Vague instructions and loose locators forced me to consult references to get the gear legs at the correct angles. Ultimately, I built the Bf 109A because the top hat logo on the fuselage appealed to me. he scheme was painted with Testors Model Master enamels. he decals here went on easily. I spent 27 hours building the Dora Wings Messerschmitt and the results were worth it — I think these early Bf 109 versions look particularly cool. If I were to make it again though, I’d add thinner seat belts and better guns. Certainly any Bf 109 lover will want this early-version kit. However, I recommend it only to modelers with a good deal of experience itting multiple parts. – Ted Horn
Airfix Hunting Percival Jet Provost T.3
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funny thing happened on my way to completing a “problem” model: I discovered this one. Initially, I only wanted a timeiller while that other beast’s putty was drying, but after beginning Airix’s super little Jet Provost, I was hooked. Four short days after starting, this bird was ready for paint. Booyah! Recessed panel lines and details are excellent. Optional parts include retracted or extended landing gear and two canopies, the “open” one being slightly wider. he cockpit interior is basic and wellplanned with two nice multipart ejection seats plus a decal for the instrument panel. Built up and painted, the interior looks good. Handy tip: nose weight can be added through the nose gear door opening instead of installing it before the fuselage halves are joined. Cementing the gear door in place seals the weight inside. he one-piece lower wing includes a goodly portion of the belly. he single-piece horizontal stabilizer is trapped in place by the jet exhaust/tailpipe and the rud-
der is separate. A little iller was needed on the fuselage and tip tank seams. he landing gear features nice brake and strut detail, with the main struts being molded integral with the doors. he dualproile nose wheel is a two-part assembly, and all wheels are weighted, with keyed main gear axles ensuring the wheels’ flat spots are at the bottom. Perfectly printed decals provide markings for early and late Royal Air Force trainers. he high-viz decals for the older scheme are printed on white backing to help the Day-Glo fluoresce. hat also means they are stif, brittle, and don’t follow compound curves without generous doses of solvent. Even at that, the decals that wrap the wing leading edges cracked. I removed them, sliced them into thirds, and applied one stripe to each upper and lower wing, close to the leading edges. he rest of the decals worked well. he model scales out perfectly with my reference, but the dimensions stated in the instructions difer from those numbers. On the proile drawings for the newer red-andwhite scheme, the tip tanks obscure the location of the color demarcation line on the fuselage sides above the wings. he aftmost part of the wing root fairing is shown as gray, but it’s actually part of the intake fairing, and should be red; this becomes clearer when painting the model.
his is a ine ofering whose detail, decals, and complete stenciling result in a real gem of a model. In fact, I liked it so much I bought another one for a quick double build. he irst took me 12 hours to inish, the second even less. “Fast” and “nice” are seldom used together to describe my models, but this one’s a rock star. he T in its title meant “tonic” for my state of mind over my other model’s diiculties, too. – Walt Fink
Kit: No. A02103 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Airfix, www.airfix.com Price: $12.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 47 parts, decals Pros: Superb molding and detail; great fits Cons: Some thick decals; painting and dimensional discrepancies in the instruction
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS
Special Hobby P-40N Warhawk
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zech manufacturer Special Hobby has introduced a new line of “short-nosed” Warhawks (P-40D and later) starting with this handsome P-40N, the last production model of the Curtiss classic. Not to be confused with Special Hobby/ MPM’s earlier P-40F kits, this is all-new tooling and the sprues show that there will be an extended family coming. In fact, Special Hobby has already released a Kittyhawk I, Kittyhawk III, and P-40K from this line. his kit includes three diferent instrument panels, two diferent seats, two diferent propellers, two diferent armored seat backs, two sets of exhaust stacks, and the fuselage halves are molded on a separate sprue. Optional parts are included for an open or closed canopy, open or shut cowl flaps, spoked or covered main wheels, and a bomb or two diferent drop tanks for the
Kit: No. 72374 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Special Hobby, www.specialhobby.eu Price: $22 Comments: Injection-molded, 80 parts, decals Pros: Accurate shapes; fine surface detail, well-illustrated instructions, excellent decals Cons: No seat harness, fragile tail-wheel strut/wheel casting
62 FineScale Modeler January 2019
centerline. Cartograf decals ofer markings for two USAAF ighters and a Dutch East Indies aircraft in Australia. he kit’s overall shape is fantastic, with impressive recessed detail. Equally impressive is the it and the ease of assembly — the cockpit, with its separate instrument panel, sidewalls, seat, armored backrest, stick, and seat adjuster lever, it perfectly inside the fuselage. he cockpit floor is molded onto the upper wing half. While there is no harness for the seat, CMK ofers aftermarket resin seats with harnesses and other detail parts as shown on the back page of the instructions. Overall, it took
just three hours to paint and assemble the interior. he two-part radiator core provides realistic depth to the Warhawk’s characteristic “chin.” I like the separate clear castings for the sliding portion of the canopy; the open one is slightly larger to it over the rear section. I encountered no problems with the landing gear, but the tail-wheel casting is scale-thin and therefore fragile. I “painted” it irst with a layer of gap-illing super glue to shore it up a bit. he excellent decals went on perfectly. If the American insignias don’t look right to you, don’t fret — they represent faded insignias with the new white bars applied in mid-1942. here are no blue outlines on this example. It took only 11 hours to inish my Warhawk. he bonus is that it appears to be the best rendition of this late-production P-40 available in this scale. Easy to build and looks right — now that’s what I like! – Paul Boyer
Azur FrRom CASA C-212-100/300 Aviocar
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he CASA C-212 is a medium short takeof and landing (STOL) aircraft ordered into production in the 1960s by Spain’s government to replace aging DC-3, DC-4 and Ju 52 fleets. Manufactured from 1971 to 2012, the boxy military transport has been used around the world for rainmaking, surveillance, and search and rescue. he U.S. Special Operations Command uses the aircraft, designated C-41A, for supply drops, iniltration, and exiltration. Many have been used as airliners, and the rear ramp makes it a popular drop ship for smoke jumpers and skydivers. Azur FrRom’s contains parts for many versions of the C-212, including optional noses, doors, fuel tanks, landing-gear sponsons, horizontal stabilizers, instrument panels, and props. More than half of the parts included aren’t used, so your spares box will get a boost. Molded in a soft gray plastic, the parts have recessed panel lines and surface detail; the molding is good but not outstanding. Fit was generally good throughout. As molded, the fuselage represents the short-nose 100-series airframe. To convert it to the long-nose 300 series, I carefully cut halves along scored lines behind the cockpit. A stepped tab is left at the seam to align and attach the new nose pieces. hat
is one of the hardest things on the build. Before joining the fuselage halves, 13 cabin windows must be inserted. Fear not: here are small tabs on each one to aid gluing them in place. I secured each with a drop of super glue on a toothpick. hen, I masked each window with a drop of white glue. It is easily removed with a hobby knife or toothpick after painting. he simple cockpit includes good decals for the instrument panel. he join between the wing and fuselage was perfect and needed no iller. he kit has the option for open doors but since there is no interior I left them closed. A open rear cargo ramp would have been nice with some interior detail.
Decals provide markings for four French C-212s, two from the French air force flight test center, and two civilian aircraft. I painted my model with Testors light gray and U.S. Navy blue to replicate the wild paint scheme on the aircraft from French CAE Aviation. Unfortunately, the decals for the stripes were extremely fragile and came apart. he other decals are printed by Cartograf and performed perfectly. I spent about 43 hours on my Aviocar, mostly because of the conversion surgery and decal problems. I recommend that less experienced modelers stay with the 100 version. – Ted Horn
Kit: No. FR0040 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Azur FrRom, www.frrom.com Price: $36 Comments: Injectionmolded, 210 parts (17 PE), decals Pros: Build options; good fits Cons: Decal problems
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Modeler’s Mart To advertise 888-558-1544 ext. 630
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ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES
907-277-7778
Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays
RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES
501-982-6836
BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES
818-848-3674
CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park
Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Model trains. Mon thru Sat 10-6 Closed Sun & Major Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com
SCALE MODEL STUFF
818-716-7847
CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove
Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com
BROOKHURST HOBBIES
714-636-3580
CALIFORNIA • Hollister
Model planes, car, ships & igures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 116; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com
B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS
201-C McCray St.
831-635-0537
COLORADO • Aurora
Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com
COLPAR HOBBIES
1915 S. Havana St.
800-876-0414
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394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1
203-882-1979
METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES
12951 Metro Parkway
239-332-0422
Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.
ANN’S HOBBY CENTER
203-869-0969
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Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2
WELLER’S HOBBYCRAFT
767 Kailua Road
808-262-0211
HOBBY BUNKER, INC.
33 Exchange St.
781-321-8855
MASSACHUSETTS • Norton
6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-i. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www.mymummy. com E: mummy@mymummy.com HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES 250 E. Main St., Rt 123 508-285-8080
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DEAN’S HOBBY STOP
116 N. Washington Street
989-720-2137
MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit) New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO. 1400 E. 11 Mile Rd. 248-586-1022 Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...
TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES
231-947-1353
Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vin-tage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Fri 11-8 Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com
MODELCAVE
103 W. Michigan Avenue
While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.
HOBBYTOWN USA
4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103
702-889-9554
Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors
ELITE HOBBIES
603-749-0800
Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!
KENVIL HOBBIES
973-584-1188
NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft, ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts & tools. Open 7 days
AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS
706 N. White Horse Pike
856-435-1188
Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast. Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models. Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.
RUDY’S HOBBY & ART
718-545-8280
NEW YORK • Middle Island Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.
MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.
134 Middle Country Rd.
631-924-0583
Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.
JAN’S HOBBY SHOP, INC.
1435 Lexington Ave.
Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com
M-A-L HOBBY SHOP
108 S. Lee Street
972-438-9233
Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, igures, ships, & sci-i. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.
DIBBLE’S HOBBIES
1029 Donaldson Ave.
210-735-7721
WASHINGTON • Lynnwood We are a full line hobby shop. Huge model selection. Gundam, supplies, tool, educational, kit, parts, kite, game. Huge selection, paint, train & R/C items. www.galaxyhobby.com
GALAXY HOBBY
19332 60TH AVE W
425-670-0454
WASHINGTON • Seattle
NEW YORK • ASTORIA
3516 30TH AVE
713-529-7752
TEXAS • San Antonio
NEW JERSEY • Kenvil
590 Rt. 46
G & G MODEL SHOP
2029 Southwest FWY
TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)
NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover
#334 90 Washington St.
HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com
212-987-4765
Plastic Model Specialists. Largest selection of plastic models in NW! We have Aircraft, Armor, Auto, SCI-FI, and Gundam, along with great paint selection. Email us at skyway@nwlink.com or look us up at www.skywaymodel.com
SKYWAY MODEL SHOP
12615 Renton Ave. S.
206-772-1211
CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada’s leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.
HOBBY HOUSE, LTD
80 Montreal Rd.
613-749-5245
CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & inishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com
WHEELS AND WINGS
1880 Danforth Ave.
416-752-0071
OKLAHOMA • Owasso
Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains & sci-i. Special orders welcome! Tue - Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-4:30 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
TOP SHELF MODELS
119 S. Main St.
918-274-0433
Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of
FineScale Modeler!
OREGON • Beaverton
MICHIGAN • Traverse City
210 East Front St.
TEXAS • Houston
NEVADA • Las Vegas
NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan
Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com
MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit
CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob
405 E. Putnam Avenue
Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com
Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, igure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com
Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering
12188 Brookhurst St.
CONNECTICUT • Milford
MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)
CALIFORNIA • Burbank
7259 Canoga Avenue
860-646-0610
HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu
ARKANSAS • Jacksonville
911 S. Victory Blvd.
TIME MACHINE HOBBY
71 Hilliard St.
Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads. Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm; Closed Sun www.metrotrainsandhobbies.com
www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st loor all R/C, 2nd loor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!
1200 John Harden Dr.
Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6
FLORIDA • Ft. Myers
ALASKA • Anchorage
2803 Spenard Rd.
CONNECTICUT • Manchester
734-316-2281
Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon - Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.
TAMMIES HOBBIES
12024 SW Canyon Rd.
503-644-4535
Call 888-558-1544, ext. 440 for more information.
PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster) Large Selection New & Used Kits Tools, paint, airbrushes & scratch building supplies. Full line hobby shop open Tue, Thur & Fri 10-5, Wed & Sat 10-2 www.CoolTrains.com
COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES
106 W. Main Street
717-898-7119
ak-interactive.com _____________ 9
Evergreen Scale Models ________ 4
ParaGrafix Modeling Systems ___ 4
Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.___ 6
Fantastic Plastic Models _______ 64
Proxxon, Inc. _________________ 8
ARA Press___________________ 6
FineScale Modeler Binders_____ 67
Squadron Mail Order __________ 2
Aves Studio __________________ 4
FineScale Modeler Modeling Tools _ 4
Tamiya America, Inc. _________ 68
Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _____ 64
Glenn Hoover Models ________ 64
TotalNavy.com ______________ 64
Damaged Magazine ___________ 2
MegaHobby.com_____________ 64
Dean’s Hobby Stop ___________ 64
Michigan Toy Soldier Co.______ 64
www.FineScale.com
65
FINAL DETAILS By Henry Singer
Two friends/self-proclaimed nerds spending time reclaiming the enjoyment of a hobby.
Rediscovering joy I
t started with a text and photo from my cousin Don of his Trumpeter 1/16 scale King Tiger. his kit has around 140,000 parts. After six-and-a-half hours of thankless and tedious work, Don had completed less than 7 inches of one tread, with 40 inches to go. I was no stranger to projects that turned out to be more trouble than they were worth. he 1/72 scale Italeri XB-70 I’d recently inished had consumed an entire tube of Squadron White Stuf — that’s enough to spackle a powder room. Viewing Don’s work in progress, I thought to myself that this hobby wasn’t always so arduous. here was a time when modeling was unapologetically fun, a time when hyper-accuracy was unknown, when tools were limited, and we accepted small inaccuracies or unavoidable mistakes. What if we could recapture the simple joy of opening a box and building a model in one sitting, just for fun. I looked at my calendar, picked a day, and called Don to tell him my plan. He was quickly on board. We established some rules. First, we were barred from the use of tools, products, or technology that we would not have had access to in 1979. We could rely on the 66 FineScale Modeler January 2019
After nine hours of fun work, I had a Bf 109 …
… and Don made a respectable P-40.
skills we’d developed since, but “fancy” tools — airbrushes, illers, instant cement, EZ Line, Mig washes, paint retardants, and Microset — were prohibited. We agreed that each kit needed to be something that was available in 1979 and afordable to a kid. Don immediately snatched up a 1/48 scale Monogram P-40, with Flying Tigers markings, released in 1964. I grabbed a 1/48 scale Revell Bf 109, a magniicent gem of a kit from 1979. At noon on a December day we settled at the kitchen table. We worked, mostly in silence, save for the occasional curse word over a dropped part or smudged paint. After what might have been hours of silent construction, Don looked up and said just one thing, “his is a good time.”
He was right, it was a good time. Such a good time, in fact, that I lost track of it. It was stress free, with no expectations of outcome. he joy was in the pure simplicity of the task. I realized we’d successfully recaptured a feeling that, in some respects, had disappeared for me. It was reinvigorating. We inished our kits in nine hours. And you know what? hese tired, old warbirds didn’t look half bad. When we called it a day, I had a respectable, albeit low-tech, Bf 109 model. Mission accomplished. As Don headed home, I picked up my model and did what any self-respecting 48-year-old man who had just spent the day building models with his friend would do; I made airplane noises and ran around the house chasing my cat with a 109. FSM
Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation
Protect Your Investment
(Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685)
Title of publication: FineScale Modeler
2.
Number of publication: 679-590
3.
Date of iling: October 1, 2018
4.
Frequency of issue: Ten times per year
5.
Number of issues published annually: 10
6.
Annual subscription price: $39.95
7.
Location of known oice of publication: 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, Waukesha County, WI 53187-1612, ph. 262-798-6607
8.
Location of headquarters or general business oices of publishers: Same
9.
Publisher: Steve George, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53186. Editor: Mark Savage, same address. Managing Editor: N/A
10. Owner: Kalmbach Media, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612; Stockholders owning or holding one (1) percent or more of total amount of stock are: Deborah H.D. Bercot, 22012 Indian Springs Trail, Amberson, PA 17210; Gerald & Patricia Boettcher Trust, 8041 Warren Ave. Wauwatosa, WI 53213; Alexander & Sally Darragh, 145 Prospect Ave., Waterloo, IA 50703; Melanie J. Duval Trust, 9705 Royston Ct., Granite Bay, CA 95746; Harold Edmonson, 6021 N. Marmora Ave., Chicago, IL 60646-3903; Laura & Gregory Felzer, 3328 S. Honey Creek Dr., Milwaukee, WI 53219; Susan E. Fisher Trust, 3430 E. Sunrise Dr., Ste. 200, Tucson, AZ 85718; Bruce H. Grunden, 255 Vista Del Lago Dr., Huffman, TX 77336-4683; Linda H. Hanson Trust, P.O. Box 19, Arcadia, MI 49613; George F. Hirschmann Trusts, P.O. Box 19, Arcadia, MI 49613; James & Carol Ingles, 1907 Sunnyside Dr., Waukesha, WI 53186; Charles & Lois Kalmbach, 7435 N. Braeburn Lane, Glendale, WI 53209; Kalmbach Proit Sharing/401K Savings Plan & Trust, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612; James & Elizabeth King, 2505 E. Bradford Ave., #1305, Milwaukee, WI 53211-4263; Mahnke Family Trust, 4756 Marlborough Way, Carmichael, CA 95608; Milwaukee Art Museum, Inc., 700 N. Art Museum Dr., Milwaukee, WI 53202; Thomas & Kathleen Murphy, 3469 Meadow Sound Dr., De Pere, WI 54114; Lois E. Stuart Trust, 1320 Pantops Cottage Ct. #1, Charlottesville, VA 22911-4663; David M. Thornburgh Trust, 8855 Collins Ave. Apt. 3A, Surfside, FL 33154-0436. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: Not applicable 12. Tax status: Not applicable 13. Publication title: FineScale Modeler
Preserve your library of FineScale Modeler magazines with durable hardcover binders.
ONLY $13.95 each Item #14006 P29466
1.
Shop at KalmbachHobbyStore.com
14. Issue date for circulation data below: September 2018 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average No. Copies of Each Issue During Preceding 12 months
Actual No. of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
49,865
46,621
24,482
24,113
0
0
7,076
5,950
A. Total no. copies (net press run):
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B. Paid and/or requested circulation 1. Paid/requested outside-county mail subscriptions: 2. Paid in-county subscriptions 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other non-USPS paid distribution: 4. Other classes mailed through USPS:
0
0
C. Total paid and/or requested circulation:
31,559
30,063
1. Outside-county:
0
0
2. In-county:
0
0
143
140
D. Free distribution by mail
3. Other classes mailed through USPS: 4. Outside the mail:
0
0
143
140
F. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e):
31,701
30,203
G. Copies not distributed:
18,164
16,418
E. Total free distribution (sum of 15d (1,2,3,4)):
H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g):
49,865
46,621
I. Percent paid and/or requested:
99.55%
99.54%
16. Total circulation includes electronic copies: Average No. Copies of Each Issue During Preceding 12 months
Actual No. of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
A. Paid electronic copies:
2,353
1,972
B. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies (sum of 15c and 16A):
33,912
32,035
C. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies (sum of 15f and 16a):
34,054
32,175
D. Percent paid and/or requested:
99.58%
99.56%
17. Publication of Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the January 2019 issue of this publication. 18. I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete.
FineScaleModeler
Nicole McGuire, Vice President - Consumer Marketing, 9/28/18
www.FineScale.com
67
M3A1 SCOUT CAR
1/35 SCALE
1/35 Military Miniature Series M3A1 Scout Car (Item 35363) This is a scale model replica of the M3A1 Scout Car. It promises to be a great stand-alone model or make for an essential diorama piece in a bigger modeling project. Around 21,000 of the actual car were built, a vital cog in the setup of U.S. forces and those Allies (Britain, Soviet Union, Free France, China and more) who received it under â&#x20AC;&#x153;lend-lease.â&#x20AC;? Lightly protected with mainly 6.4mm armor, with a top road speed of 80km/h, it had one 12.7mm and two 7.62mm machine guns, could seat six in addition to a driver and commander, and was oten deployed in recon and command car roles, in North Africa, Sicily, and on the Eastern Front.
U.S. Army 2nd armored division No. 82 Armored Scout Battalion vehicle.
One U.S. and two Soviet marking options included.
Louvers on front engine grille can be assembled Detailed underside with depictions of leaf spring 5 igures in Red Army Winter attire: helmeted driver in suspension, prop shat, differentials, leaf springs tanker overalls; pistol-wielding commander with choice as open or closed. of ushanka or regulation headgear; two gunners and and exhaust. one seated soldier. Red Army 3rd Guards Tank Army.
The interior of the open top battleield, including 12.7mm heavy machine guns and 7.62mm machine guns, is precisely reproduced.
Rear is equipped with two types of tripod stands for machine guns.