Coffee Table Book by ruchiespl

S I M P LY H E AV E N !

Discover ing Uttarakhand

Simply Heaven! Discovering Uttarakhand Jointly Produced by George John Advertising Pvt. Ltd. & Beehive Communications Pvt. Ltd. on behalf of UTDB Copyright ÂŠ 2010 by Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board (UTDB) All rights reserved. Printed in India. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission, except in the cases of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. All photographs used in the book are with permission from their original copyright holders and may not be used or reproduced in any manner without their written permission. Designed by George John Advertising Pvt. Ltd. & Beehive Communications Pvt. Ltd. www.beehivecommunications.com Content & Artwork by Font & Pixel Media Pvt. Ltd. Printed in India by Rave India (Printing Unit of Rave Scans Pvt. Ltd.), New Delhi. www.raveindiapress.com

Acknowledgements The publisher gratefully acknowledges and wishes to thank all those who contributed to the development and execution of this book, especially the teams at George John Advertising and Beehive Communications Pvt. Ltd. We convey our special appreciation to Anup Sah, Satpal Gandhi and Bhumesh Bharti who provided the exceptional photographs that have made this book truly a collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s item. Special thanks to Rakesh Sharma (I.A.S.), Principal Secretary and CEO UTDB; Akshat Gupta (I.A.S.), Additional Secretary and ACEO UTDB; Ajit K. Singh, Joint Director Uttarakhand Tourism; A.K. Dwivedi, Joint Director Uttarakhand Tourism; V.S. Chauhan, Publicity Officer and Team UTDB.

Foreword

mountains & glaciers

Culture & people

rivers

113

lakes & Reservoirs

133

Forests

153

Wildlife

A sadhu in Haridwar

Bhyundar valley

e embark on journeys with expectations, which when met, enchant us. However, a journey to Uttarakhand won’t just

exceed expectations but will overwhelm the visitor in unimaginable ways. Experiencing Uttarakhand will leave one trying to confer a new definition to the word ‘beauty’. Such is the profound charm of the region that a visit by Mahatma Gandhi led him to compare it to the wonder of Switzerland, and he dubbed it the ‘Switzerland of India’. Anybody who has been to Uttarakhand will agree with what the Father of the Nation said. Uttarakhand is one corner of the earth that would make one conclude that Nature decided to park herself here and blossom into a profusion of bounty that is a mesmerizing treat for all the senses. With its misty tranquility, Himalayan magnificence takes its own sweet time to seep into consciousness and set the soul on a search to discover newer depths of feelings. The many mountains and their overwhelming peaks that dominate and make their presence felt in this part of the country are believed to be the chosen homes of the mighty gods themselves. This explains why a lot of Hindu lore stems from this ‘Abode of the Gods’. Today, these mountains are no longer restricted to the Gods, and tourists can enjoy mountain biking, trekking, rock climbing and mountaineering amongst the highest mountains in the world. Winter months invite carpets of snow and ice to blanket the steep slopes, which turn into a playground for adventurous holiday makers who can revel in skiing and making snow angels. The sunbeams of spring thaw all that was once frozen, infusing new life into the buds that blossom in the sunshine of summer when myriad colours suddenly swarm the land. Rivers are ready to gush forth with a new generation of life-giving water. Flowers bloom in colourful abandon and the flora and fauna of the region come alive in astonishing harmony. 11

Stellera flowers

The streams that arise in the magnificent mountains of

The lush green forests of this region are home to a

Uttarakhand flow on to feed rivers which have nourished a

mind-boggling variety of flora and fauna, some of which

civilization that has been born and brought up in the Indo-

fall into the category of endangered species. The wildlife

Gangetic soil of the country. These rivers are not just water

in this region is bursting with hundreds and thousands

bodies of enormous proportions, but are also impressive

of species, and what makes exploring Uttarakhand even

streams commanding worship and reverence with their

more exciting is the fact that many species are yet to

source in the holy crevices where gods and goddesses

be discovered. Such is the profusion of flowers in the

reside. The water of the holiest of all Hindu rivers, the

Valley of Flowers that it is said that it is impossible to

Ganga, is believed to wash away and purge the body, mind

walk in the valley without wishing you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to step

and soul of all impurity.

on some flowers. World-renowned mountain and wildlife

Dhwaj temple at Dwarahat

institutes in this region pursue scientific research along

as the Bhotias, the Jaunsaris, the Tharus and the Buxas,

with a humungous effort to preserve and protect the

peacefully co-exist, celebrating their culture and life

flora and fauna, encouraging people to do the same and

with seasonal fairs and festivals, which give them the

spread the word. National parks and forest reserves are

opportunity to showcase their art and culture, and these

doing the best they can not only to protect and preserve

in turn make for great tourist attractions. Their culture is

these species from impending extinction, but also to

a unique one and has managed to survive the ravages of

spread awareness with the help of programmes that have attained international acclaim.

time. The people live in harmony with the environment with their economy interlinked with the forest, which is why forest departments have taken the responsibility of

Uttarakhandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loveliness is not limited to its aesthetic

not only protecting the forests and the habitats within

blessings. The people and their lifestyles add a whole new

these green treasures, but also of looking after the well-

dimension of charm to this region. Many tribals, such

being and sustenance of the people dependent on them. 13

With so much to offer, Uttarakhand truly is nothing short of heavenly, and discovering its many treasures is a journey and experience that no book can do justice to. If you come to Uttarakhand searching for something, you will come away with more than what you find. Such a surfeit of beauty mingling with spirituality is an overpowering experience that can only be had in a place like heaven.

Brahminy Duck or Ruddy Shelduck in Assan Lake

A young Garhwali woman in her traditional nath

Majestic Panchchuli peaks from Darma valley

Spotted deer stares into the camera

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Mountains & Glaciers

estled in the grandeur of the Himalayas,

Holiday-makers can make the most of these mountains,

Uttarakhand is known as ‘Dev Bhumi’ or ‘The

which are a playground for many an enjoyable holiday

Abode of the Gods’.

This explains why a

activity. Trekking, high altitude camping, mountain

good amount of Hindu and Buddhist lore finds its roots

biking, rock climbing and skiing in the winter months are

in the soil and soul of this region of breath-taking

some of the many holiday activities offered, and the State

beauty, in the midst of lush forests, myriad wildlife

Tourism Board is doing all it can to make Uttarakhand

and carpets of snow. These mountains aren’t alone

the adventure capital of the country. Nature-lovers and

and find companionship with glaciers, which are like moving rivers of ice. Uttarakhand consists of several temperate valley glaciers that find their home in these mountains and are the source of many holy and lifegiving rivers of India. According to the glacial formations, two of the five traditional divisions of the Himalayan range are found in Uttarakhand, namely Garhwal and Kumaon. The major glacial formations of Garhwal include Bandarpunch, Doonagiri, Khatling, Gangotri and the Nanda Devi cluster of glaciers, while Kumaon consists of the Kaphni, Milam, Pindari and Ralam Glaciers. Mountaineering as an activity has been known to mankind since the first tryst with the mountains was made. Since time immemorial, seers have been drawn to these mountains because they provide not only serene sheds of solitude, but their very sight uplifts the spirit and makes it soar, fulfilling the longing for the Infinite that is both beyond and yet within the human soul. The Himalayan mountains are no exception to this longing. It is with profound reason that Kalidas immortalized these mountains in the very first shloka of Kumarsambhava. He said, “astutryasyam dishi

devatatma himalayo nama nagadhiraja, purva parau toya nidhi va gahya sthithiprithivyam eva man danda”: Behold to the north lies the land of gods, and the lord of these mountains is called Himalaya, from the east to the west this reservoir of water stands like a measuring rod on the face of the earth. 20

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photographers can invigorate their passion with the plush

The snow-capped peaks of the mountains that surround

flora and fauna of this kingdom of nature that boasts of

this region make a profound impression, connecting

thousands of species, some of which can only be found in this

the spirit of man and the spirit of the mountain. The

lap of the world. The importance of eco-friendly diversity

beauty of Garwhal is said by many to be unsurpassed

has been noted and this is why forest institutes in the region

where mountains and valleys, birds and animals all come

promote the learning and discovery of new species with an

together to mingle in delightful synchronicity.

emphasis on the preservation of existing ones.

A trekker at Khalia Top

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Nanda Devi from Traills Pass

Nanda Devi East Resting majestically in the Garhwal Himalayas is a

daughter of the Himalayas, according to local legend

two-peaked massif that forms a long high ridge leaning

and myth. The heart of the insurmountable ring is

east to west, known as Nanda Devi. The Nanda Devi

the Nanda Devi Sanctuar y which is protected as the

East Peak is part of this, and together with the West

Nanda Devi National Park. Nanda Devi East lies on the

Peak, they form the twin peaks of the Goddess Nanda.

eastern edge of the ring and of the Park; at the border

A barrier ring guards the main summit, within

of Chamois, Pithoragarh and Bageshwar districts. The

which can be found some of the highest mountains in

Nanda Devi West Peak towers at 7,817 metres and is

the Indian Himalayas, and Nanda Devi East is one of

the second highest in the countr y. Expedition-style

them. Twelve peaks surpass 6,400 metres in height,

climbs are best made in the months of May, June,

further enriching its sanctified standing as the

September and October. 23

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The Nanda Devi Main & East Peaks from Pindari Glacier

Panchachuli At the end of the eastern Kumaon region, in the Pithoragarh district near Munsiyari, lies a group of five snow-capped Himalayan peaks known as Panchachuli. The name for this fantastic cluster of mountains is derived from the legendary Pandavas’ “Five Chulis” (cooking hearths), where they prepared their last meal before proceeding toward their heavenly abode. These mountains are elevated at incredible heights, ranging from 6,334 metres to 6,904 metres, and form the watershed between the Gori and the Darmaganga valleys. Panchachuli is also located on the Gori GangaLassar Yankti divide. The highest peak in this group is Panchachuli II, which was first scaled by an IndoTibetan Border Police expedition in 1972. These snowy peaks make for excellent mountain expeditions and the best months to scale these summits are April, May, September and October. The Panchachuli peaks are an important element of many a trekker’s itinerary as well. There are two routes one can take to get to Panchachuli. One is the eastern approach via the Meola and Sona Glaciers, and the other is the western approach which trails the route through the Uttar Balati Glacier via the Balati Plateau. The five peaks of Panchachuli produce a haunting vision of the Him Khand and Yuli Rivers that are wonderfully rimmed with deodar forests and luxuriant alpine meadows. Nestled in the lap of Panchachuli’s snow-capped peaks lies the Darma Valley, which is blessed with picturesque splendour.

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Panchachuli, which takes its name from the stoves of the Pandavas

Trishul Named after the trident of Lord Shiva, Trishul is

for ski-equipped patrolling officers of the Indo-Tibetan

the name given to the three imposing peaks of western

Border Police Force. It is reported that an expedition

Kumaon near the Bageshwar district. The main peak,

to scale the peak in 1958 took the mountaineers four

Trishul I, is notable for being the first peak over 7,122

whole days to climb and a mere 90 minutes to ski

metres to have ever been climbed way back in 1907.

down to their base camp. The gorgeous Roopkund Lake

Trishul II and Trishul III were first climbed in 1960 by

rests at the bottom of these slopes, which is also known

a Yugoslav team from the Bidalgwar Glacier, scaling the

as the Mystery Lake since around 600-odd skeletal

supreme heights of Trishul II from the southern ridge and

remains of horses and humans were once found here.

Trishul III from the northern ridge. Before ski tourism

The best views of Trishul are to be seen from Kausani

gained popularity as a winter sport in Auli, Trishul was

and Bedini Bugyal.

amongst the few peaks that were used as training spots

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Chaukhamba One of the chief mountain massifs in the Gangotri

at an altitude of 4,150 metres above sea level. The

cluster of mountains in the Garhwal Himalayas is

Gangotri Glacier begins on its western slopes and

the magnificent Chaukhamba peak. ‘Chaukhamba’

is one of the largest in the Himalayas. The slopes

literally means ‘four pillars’ and its four impressive

of Chaukhamba are ideal for major mountaineering

peaks hover at an elevation of 7,138 metres, 7,088

expeditions and the best months for climbing are

metres, 6,995 metres and 6,854 metres respectively.

June, July, August and September. The Shivling Peak

The highest peak in the group is Chaukhamba I that

is also an important part of this group.

lies precisely on top of the Gangotri Glacier and forms the eastern connection of the group. Excellent views of the Chaukhamba can be seen from a place called Guptakashi and the Vasuki Tal Lake that is situated

The four impressive peaks of Chaukhamba

Shivling The lofty Shivling Peak is perhaps one of the most

Between Gaumukh and Shivling, is the mesmerizing

imposing peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas, positioned

Tapovan meadow which is also a well-known pilgrimage

at an altitude of 6,543 metres. The Shivling is also

site. The Shivling Peak is surrounded by rocky terrain on

known as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Mahadev ka Lingaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; . This mountain is an important one in the Himalayan mountain range and can be accessed through the Chaturangi Vamak route. The mountain actually has two summits and rises like a pyramid above the snout of the Gangotri Glacier. Its

three sides. The west side of the peak slopes moderately and this is where snow accumulates. It forms the western gateway for the lower Gangotri Glacier and is a popular climbing peak today, owing to its easy accessibility. The

impressive appearance has often been compared to the

nearest airport is Jolly Grant Airport and the nearest

Matterhorn in the Alps.

railway station is Rishikesh.

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Swargarohini In the Bandarpunch Range of the Garhwal Himalayas

the same astounding drop in less than 3 kilometres.

lies the striking Swargarohini mountain massif.

The east summit is elevated at 6,247 metres, slightly

Located in the Uttarkashi District, it is situated on the

lower than the west summit. This snow-capped peak

west side of the Gangotri group of peaks. Comprising

is the source of the Tons River and along with the

three individual peaks, Swargarohini I doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t boast of

Bandarpunch massif, acts as a barrier between the

a great height in the Himalayan range and is definitely

Yamuna and the Bhagirathi Rivers. It is accessible

not the highest in the Bandarpunch Range. However, it

from Badrinath and after a challenging 32 kilometre

is known for its incredible local relief that makes for a

trek, one can reach the base camp of this peak.

ver y steep and challenging climb. The best months to

According to local folklore and myth, it is believed

climb are May, June and September. The north side of

that this peak apparently served as the stairway to

the peak drops 2,000 metres in less than 2 kilometres

heaven (Indralok) when the Pandavas went directly to

of horizontal distance. The southern face accomplishes

heaven from Har Ki Dun.

The snow-clad Swargarohini

Bhagirathi Peak In the Garhwal Himalayas lie the magnificent Bhagirathi

â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Glacier and the source of the holy River Ganga.

Bhagirathi I, Bhagirathi II and Bhagirathi III,

Bhagirathi is also the name given to the upper part of

reaching heights of 6,856 metres, 6,512 metres,

the Ganga. Both the mountain and the river are said

and 6,454 metres respectively. The highest peak of

to be named after King Bhagirath, who supposedly

the imposing Bhagirathi cluster forms an elaborate

coerced Goddess Ganga to descend from the heavens

and topographically complex massif. It stands awe-

in the form of a raging torrent as an answer to his

inspiring and dominates the end of the valley leading

severe and unwavering austerities. The Bhagirathi

group

three

soaring

peaks

up to Gaumukh, which marks the end of the Gangotri

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The magnificent Bhagirathi Peak from Tapovan

Glacier in the upper Alaknanda basin, along with

sub-division of Chamoli, by following the Badrinath

other glaciers like the Satopanth Glacier, is the source

and Mana motorable road. From the village of Mana,

of the River Alaknanda. These glaciers are located at

the route trails the path of the River Alaknanda.

a distance of 17 kilometres from the renowned temple

A 145-metre waterfall known as Vasundhara lies

of Badrinath, in the district of Chamoli. They begin in

on the right bank of the Alaknanda and is perched

the Chaukhamba and Badrinath cluster of peaks, which

at a height of 3,250 metres. Major mountain

separate them from the Gangotri group of glaciers.

expeditions can be enjoyed in the months of May,

Bhagirathi can be reached from Joshimath in the

June and September. 33

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Gaumukh The Gaumukh Glacier is the source of the Holy Ganga

the life and culture of the Indo-Gangetic plain. The

and is therefore held in special regard by devout pilgrims.

place at which the Gangotri Glacier terminates is said to

It is an 18-kilometre walk from the Gangotri Glacier.

resemble a cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mouth and is therefore called Gaumukh

Measuring 8 kilometres by 24 kilometres, it is the source

(gau meaning cow, and mukh meaning face). About 18

of the River Bhagirathi, which joins the Alaknanda River

kilometres from Gangotri lies Gaumukh, which is said to

to form the Ganga at Devprayag, from where the river

be the exact source of the River Bhagirathi.

flows 2,480 kilometres into the Bay of Bengal, nourishing 35

Pindari Glacier The best known trekking route in the Kumaon Himalayas has to be the Pindari Glacier in Bageshwar district. This glacier is located in the lovely Pindar Valley and the trek to Pindari Glacier has a plethora to offer in terms of the grandeur of the Himalayas, with its unimaginable flora and fauna, pure cascading waterfalls and snowy mountain ranges. At an altitude of 3,627 metres, the Pindari Glacier is flanked by the Nanda Devi and Nandakot peaks. Pindariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rugged splendour offers a spectacular sight, especially for the trekker in love with nature in all its immaculate brilliance. The Pindari Glacier is an exhilarating experience with its magnificence spanning 5 kilometres in length, its snout 6 metres high and 2.5 metres wide. Above the snout, the glacier extends for about 3 kilometres in length and 300 - 400 metres in width between marvelous altitudes that range between 3,600 metres to 5,000 metres. All in all, it occupies an area of 339.39 square kilometres. To get there, one has to take the road up to Saung that is accessible from Almora, Bageshwar and Kathgodam. From then on begins the 45-kilometre trek to the glacier. It follows the Pindar River to its source on the glacier. Other famous peaks that can be seen from here are Baljuri, Panwalidwar, Nanda Khat, Changuch and Nandakot. While enjoying the trek, one can visit the Kafni Glacier as well. The trekking route to the glacier navigates along the southern backwoods of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary offering some stunning views of peaks like Panwali Dwar and Maiktoli. On the trek to the Pindari Glacier, one will find a variety of waterfalls, hanging valleys and undulating hills.

Pindari Glacier - a spectacula sight

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Neelkanth Peak Popularly known as the Queen of Garhwal, Neelkanth

Neelkanth borders the Nar-Narayan range of mountains

is a beautiful snowy peak towering above the holy

and is abundant in all the beautiful gifts Nature has to

town of Badrinath. The history of Central Garhwal

offer. This snowy mountain lies at an altitude of 6,597

would remain unfinished without mentioning this peak

metres and looks upon the Badrinath shrine. Neelkanth

of supreme splendour and exquisiteness. The elegant

is a sought-after destination for devout pilgrims.

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Dayara Bugyal One of the most beautiful places in Uttarakhand has to be Dayara Bugyal. In the local language, bugyal means â&#x20AC;&#x153;high altitude meadowâ&#x20AC;?. At an elevation that ranges between 10,000-12,000 feet, this vast meadow is second to none in natural beauty in Uttarakhand. Spread over an area of 28 square kilometres, Dayara Bugyal offers some of the best ski slopes in India during winter. Camping by Lake Barnala Tal makes for a memorable experience. The road to Dayara Bugyal branches off near Bhatwari, a place on the Uttarkashi-Gangotri road, about 28 kilometres from Uttarkashi. Vehicles can go up to the village of Barsu. Dayara can be reached via an 8-kilometre trek or via village Raithal, 10 kilometres from Bhatwari.` Beauty all around at Dayara Bugyal

Khalia Top At 11,500 feet, overlooking Munsiyari, Khalia Top

Munsiyari in the Pithoragarh district. Besides trekking,

is the divine address of a gorgeous alpine meadow

skiing is also a popular activity here. Betulidhar, Ralam,

engulfed by snow-laden peaks. Breathtaking views of

Milam and Namik Glaciers are some attractions close

the Himalayas can be seen from this hilltop with the

by. Khalia Top and Betulidhar are now well-known high

nearby peaks of Panchachuli, Rajrambha, Hardeval,

altitude skiing zones. Trekkers can take pleasure in the

Nandakot and Nanda Devi dotting the view. Surrounded

experience of the snow line on a trek to Khalia. Regular

by dense forests, it gives one an enchanting view of

treks are conducted from March to June, and September

snow-clad peaks. Khalia Top is located 7 kilometres from

till mid November.

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Om Parvat As if stamped by the Gods who live in this extravagant

Kailash, Little Kailash, Baba Kailash, Chhota Kailash

Himalayan abode, the Om Parvat stands divinely

and Jonglingkong Peak. It is said to be slightly similar

majestic with the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Omâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; symbol snowed beautifully into

to Mount Kailash in Tibet. Located near the Sinla Pass,

its crevices to create the sacred symbol. Located in the

the gorgeous Parvati Lake and Jongling kong Lake are

Kumaon Himalayas, Om Parvat is also known as Adi

also in close proximity to the Om Parvat.

Auli Ski Resort It wouldn’t be wrong to brand Auli as India’s ski

Vikas Nigam, the resort provides skiers with the necessary

capital. Perched at 2,500 to 3,050 metres, in Uttarakhand’s

equipment and state-of-the-art facilities. Skiers are saved

Chamoli district, is the Auli Ski Resort. It is close to the

of their precious time and energy with the facilities of

famous religious shrine of Badrinath. The month of

a chair lift and a ski lift. The ski lift has been imported

December heralds the beginning of the skiing season,

from France and is the longest one in the country. The

which sees ski festivals kicking in along with the National

ski slopes descend from 3,049 metres to 2,915 metres.

Skiing Championships, and the snowy excitement goes on

Accommodation at the resort is warm and decent. With

till March. Run and maintained by the Garhwal Mandal

a 110-bed capacity, delicious food, adequate heating

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arrangements, hot water and warm hospitality, there is

The peaks of Nanda Devi, Kamet, Mana Parvat and

no dearth of facilities at this very budget-friendly resort.

Dunagiri can be seen from here. Its importance as a

If it’s an excursion you’re interested in, a 16-kilometre

venue of adventure sports lies in its natural advantages

drive to Joshimath will give you the benefit of exploring

enhanced by state-of-the-art facilities. Ski equipment,

ancient temples dating back to 8 B.C. Auli is quite remote

decent accommodation and medical facilities are all

when it comes to accessibility, with the nearest railway

provided. The adventurous skier can go for cross

station at Haridwar, 299 kilometres away and the closest

country runs covering 10 - 20 kilometres. For the less

airport, Jolly Grant at Dehradun, 273 kilometres away.

adrenaline driven, ski touring the glaciers is another

Snow-covered slopes aren’t just to be admired,

enjoyable option.

but to be enjoyed. Skiing has gained popularity as an

Besides Auli, other ski spots include Dayara Bugyal,

alternative sport in the winter months. At an elevation

Munsiyari and Mundali. The Mundali province is situated

of 2,915 - 3,049 metres with five kilometres of snow,

in Dehradun, 129 kilometres from the main Dehradun

Auli is the perfect place for beginners and seasoned

town. Mundali’s enormous skiing rings offer incredible

skiers. Coniferous and oak forests line the slopes of Auli.

sights of the Himalayan slopes.

Auli, the ski capital of India

Camping Bugyal means “high altitude meadow” and gives skiers

which in turn boosts tourism activities in the state. In a

28 kilometres of area to revel in snowy delight. Camping

few years, Uttarakhand is said to become the future hub

by a small lake in this area, with the view of the majestic

for mountain biking in Asia.

Himalayas makes for an experience to remember. The list of places from where the most exhilarating experiences can stem could go on and on. Places like Munsiyari, Dayara Bugyal, Uttarkashi and others give Uttarakhand its true character, making it a land of unimaginable splendour and tranquility.

Mountain biking and cycling can be great ways to explore the towns and villages that fringe the foothills of the Himalayas. It also gives tourists the opportunity to understand the challenges that a mountain has in store for them. At Garhwal, mountain biking can be enjoyed on the Rudraprayag – Augustmuni – Ukhimath – Chopta –

Camping is perhaps one of the finest ways to soak in

Gopeshwar route, the Srinagar – Pauri – Khirsu – Pawbo

the essence of the surroundings with family and friends.

– Satpuli – Lansdown – Kotdar route, and the Haridwar –

The Himalayan region of Uttarakhand is a place where

Dhaulkhand – Mohand – Dehradun route. More routes are

high altitude camping is a unique experience, not to be

yet to be identified, explored and developed. The mountain

found anywhere. Be it wildlife camping or just another

biking routes at Kumaon are not to be left out. Tourists

ordinary camp, this region is replete with everything

can enjoy the Nainital – Bhawali – Ramgarh – Mukteshwar

an adventure enthusiast seeks. High altitude camps are

route, the Almora – Kosi – Kathpuria – Sheetlakhet route,

the perfect escape from the scorching summer heat that

the Nainital – Bhawali – Sattal – Bhimtal – Naukuchiyatal

wreaks seasonal havoc in most parts of the country.

route, and the Nainital – Kilbuyri – Kunjharak route.

Temperatures here vary between 10 to 20 degrees in the summer months of May and June.

Mountain biking Mountain biking is all about speed, control and thrill and is one of the latest ways of exploring and discovering new vistas of the Himalayan landscape. The rugged terrain and steep slopes, even though risky at times, provide great mountain biking trails in Uttarakhand. The cycle trails in this region are best travelled between October and December. In India, this sport is still in its nascent stage, surviving on some financial support from the government. Blessed with rare and diverse flora and fauna, Uttarakhand is an ideal place to develop adventure sports and eco-tourism. After paragliding, mountain biking is the second most popular adventure sport in the state. The sport attracts many national and international tourists and adventure sports enthusiasts,

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Trekking The hilly terrain of Uttarakhand provides plenty of

The Garhwal region also offers several thrilling treks,

opportunities for mountaineering, trekking and rock

some of them being the Panch Kedar trek, Kedarnath –

climbing. The major treks in the Kumaon region are the

Vasuki Tal trek, Gangotri – Kedarnath trek and the Gangotri

Pithoragarh – Parvati Lake – Chota Kailash – Sinla Pass

– Gaumukh – Nandanvan – Tapovan trek. The Panch Kedar

trek. The easternmost hill district bordering Nepal and Tibet,

trek passes through the five “Kedars” or manifestations

often dubbed as “miniature Kashmir”, is lush with natural

of the Hindu God, Shiva, represented by Kedarnath,

beauty, making it the perfect base for many an exciting

Madmaheshwar, Tungnath, Kalpeshwar and Rudranath. The

trek. Several interesting treks interlace the Gori Valley with

fascinating route is filled with the widest range of flora

some of the well-traversed trekking routes running along the

and fauna. The Valley of Flowers and Hemkund trek starts

Munsiyari – Martoli – Milam – Ralam Glacier. These treks

from Govindghat and leads to Badrinath. Other treks like

are not just walks of adventure, but are also an interesting

the Kalindikhal trek, the Khatling – Sahasratal – Masartal

way to interact and understand the social and cultural life

trek, Har Ki Dun trek, Rishikesh – Pauri – Binsar trek and

of the people in the Chaudans, Byans and Darma Valleys.

Roopkund trek are equally invigorating for both the eager

The Bageshwar – Sunderdhunga – Pindari – Kafni Glacier

amateur and the veteran mountaineer.

trek is another well-liked trekking route here. 45

Mountaineers on their way to Satopanth

M o u n t a i n s

G l a c i e r s

The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) For the past 40 years, with the aim to produce trained mountaineers and mountaineering aficionados with their attitudes, passions and values in the right place, NIM has trained thousands of Indians and hundreds of foreigners in mountaineering. The proposal to set up such an institute was first declared by the Ministr y of Defence in 1964. NIM was established on November 14, 1965 at Uttarkashi to honour the desire of Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, who was passionate about mountains. Bachhendri Pal, the first Indian woman to climb Mt. Everest, was trained at this Institute. The core of the training covers a high degree of technical exposure and exper tise, along with safet y applications to instill the cor rect mountaineer ing ethos. Although it is one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youngest institutes, it has managed to get ahead of most and become a tr usted anchor when it comes to mountaineer ing training. The excellent training standards, good administration, along with dedicated staff, make it one of the f inest mountaineer ing institutes in the world.

The Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology The Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology in

research in Himalayan geology and related fields such

Dehradun is an independent research institute of the

as geodynamic evolution, mountain building processes,

Department of Science and Technology, Government of

geo-environment and mineral resources. The areas

India. It was established in June 1968 in the Botany

of its multi-disciplinary research are organized into

department of Delhi University, and was shifted to

Tectonophysics, Petrology & Geochemistry, Lithogenesis-

Dehradun in April 1976. Earlier known as the Institute

Biostratigraphy and Earth Resources and Environment.

of Himalayan Geology, it was later renamed the Wadia

Furnished with well-equipped laboratories and state-of-

Institute of Himalayan Geology in memory of its

the-art facilities to conduct advanced levels of research,

founder, Prof. D. N. Wadia, as a token of appreciation

the Institute has emerged as a centre for excellence in

toward his contributions to the study of geology in

the field of Himalayan Geology and is recognized as a

the Himalayas. The Institute conducts fundamental

National Laboratory of international repute.

M o u n t a i n s

G l a c i e r s

The Nainital Mountaineering Club The Nainital Mountaineering Club was founded in the year 1968. So far more than 20,000 boys and girls have been trained in Rock Climbing. They conduct 1-day Rock Scrambling, 3-day Introductory, 7-day Standard and 12-day Advanced Rock Climbing courses. Apart from this they also organize 20-day Advanced Search & Rescue courses for the Government of Uttarakhand. The Nainital Mountaineering Club was the first to have conquered the Nandakhat Peak (6,611 metres) in the Uttarakhand Himalayas in 1972. Other achievements of the Club are climbing Bailjori Peak (5,922 metres), crossing Traills Pass, environmental research in the Nanda Devi Sanctuary and trekking expeditions to various glaciers in the Himalayas. The Club has also erected a Sports Climbing Wall at its training area - the first in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. The Nainital Mountaineering Club is the perfect getaway for nature-lovers, photographers, bird-watchers and seekers of a tranquil retreat. Located in the June Estate in Bhimtal, the Lake region of Nainital comprises the lakes of Naini, Bhimtal, Naukuchiya Tal, Sat Tal and Nal-Damyanti Tal. Bhimtal is the largest lake and angling is a common activity that is enjoyed here. Permits are issued from the Fisheries Department at Bhimtal. Positioned in the overlapping or blend zone of the Temperate and Tropical Zones, this gorgeous lake region is home to over 500 species of resident and migratory birds, 20 species of mammals, more than 525 species of butterflies and 11,000 species of moths, beetles, bugs and other insects. Horse-riding and paragliding can be enjoyed at Naukuchiya Tal. The Ram, Sita and Panna Tal of Sat Tal are forested lakes in the truest sense. This regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flora includes orchids, rare climbing plants, ground and tree ferns, and fungi. 49

Barsu Nestled snugly between serene pine forests, deep

Dodi Tal are places that are close to Barsu and can

lush valleys, alpine meadows and amazing heights, the

be visited on a trek. The people of this sweet village

village of Barsu offers captivating views of the snow-

survive on agriculture and livestock rearing. They make

clad peaks of the mighty Himalayas that surround it.

their houses from mud, wood and stone, with stone

The village is located about 10 kilometres away from

plates used as roofs. Animals occupy the lower portion

Bhatwari in the Uttarkashi District. It is an ideal base for

of the house, while families reside on top. The nearest

trekking and mountaineering, with several interesting

airport is Jolly Grant Airport and the nearest railway

base camps available here. Dayara Bugyal, Raithal and

station is at Rishikesh.

M o u n t a i n s

G l a c i e r s

Koti Kanasar Close to Chakarata is a lovely and relaxing tourist

2,134 metres above sea level. A private taxi from the Jolly

spot known as Koti Kanasar. 105 kilometres away from

Grant Airport at Dehradun or from the railway station

Dehradun, Koti Kanasar is a small village that is home to

makes good sense. There are direct buses from Delhi and

dense rainforests. The Forest Rest House (FRH) is the oldest

Gurgaon to these destinations. People travelling by road

known place of accommodation amongst tourists. Though

prefer the Tuini â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Chakarata road for going towards Koti

there are no traces of snow, Koti Kanasarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proximity to

Kanasar from Dehradun. Other interesting places close

Mundali is making it popular amongst tourists as a ski

to Kanasar and Chakarata are the Tiger Falls, just 15-

getaway for the winter holidays. The village is rimmed

20 minutes away, the Koti Power House and Balani Devi

by an apple valley and so naturally, the main occupation

Mandir which are a slight distance away from Kanasar at

of the villagers is apple gardening. Koti Kanasar is well

Dehradun. Tourists can also visit the Ram Tal Garden, 9

connected by road transportation and telecommunication

kilometres away from Kanasar, located on the route of

even though it is located in a hilly region, approximately

Chakarata to Mussoorie.

Tourists can take it easy in Koti Kanasar

Mana One village that is becoming one of Uttarakhandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

race with a unique culture and heritage of their own.

well-loved tourist destinations is a tribal village

The chief hereditar y occupation of these people is

called Mana, which lies in the upper reaches of the

making tribal handicrafts. They spend their summers

Himalayas, near Badrinath. Mana is the base point

in Mana, raising short duration crops. Late October

to visit Vyas Gufa, Ganesh Gufa, Bhim Pul and

sees them making a shift with their cattle to the lower

Vasundhara Falls. These are places that are mentioned

reaches of the Himalayas. The folk dances of the

in the Mahabharata, which explains why many

Bhotias are Dandala, Chamfuli, Dhusaka and Dhurang

devotees visiting Badrinath also drop in at Mana.

which are enjoyed for recreational purposes, with no

This village is also famous for housing Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last tea

religious significance attached. Some of the dances

shop in the region that overlooks the narrow valley

are connected with death ceremonies. They believe

through which the Alaknanda River f lows. Mana is

that the soul of the dead resides in the body of a goat

thinly populated with the Bhotias, an Indo-Mongolian

or sheep and that dancing would liberate the soul.

Mana, the last village on the Indo-Tibetan border

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Culture & People

Worshippers maketh the Gods. Uttarakhand, known

lore and customs grounded in chaste religious faith.

as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Abode of the Godsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; with all its pristine appeal,

Regional and traditional culture is deeply rooted in

wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be the same without its people who bring out

religion, music, dance and art that have been brought

the richness and beauty of the state. The splendour of

down the ages.

Uttarakhand is not limited to picture perfect mountains and nourishing rivers. It is the people and the culture of this state that bring its magnificence to life.

The hills resound with life as the people celebrate the season and legends, and welcome Mother Nature to their land. Based on the local traditions, these events

Uttarakhand is bestowed with a rich and varied

are known not only for their religious significance, but

culture. The culture is greatly inf luenced by its

also for their social significance. The agrarian state

geographical factors and landscape. A distinct way of

marks the arrival of each new season with a festival,

life is observed in the mountains, deep valleys, forests

giving the state many reasons to celebrate. The festivals

and hillsides of the region. The majority of the cultural

and fairs play an important role in the community as

heritage of Uttarakhand has been intertwined with

they commemorate sacred and significant events. The

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Local woman trek to the Someshwar fields

attractive fairs and festivals - celebrated with great

Mela witnesses the largest gathering of devotees on the

spontaneity - draw the attention of visitors from far and

banks of the Ganga once every 12 years. Other sacred

wide and are an important platform for socio-cultural

pilgrimages include yatras to Nanda Devi and Kailash

and economic exchanges.

Mansarovar. This route offers awe-inspiring scenes

The state not only opens the doors to oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite gods and goddesses, but also helps pilgrims to rediscover themselves on their spiritual journeys. Since time

along the journey. The Hemkund Sahib and Nanakmatta are holy places for the Sikhs and Piran Kaliyar is for Muslims seeking spiritual fulfilment.

immemorial, the Ganga has been considered the holiest

Today the state is a melting pot of many communities.

river in the country and is revered as jeevan dayini or

The tribes of the state represent the original inhabitants

the giver of life. Devotees look forward to enchanting

of this land. Major tribes include the Bhotias (Shaukas),

religious rituals and the divine Ganga aarti that takes

Tharus, Buxas, Jaunsaris and Rajis. Each tribe follows

place in the evenings by the banks of the River Ganga

its own distinct pattern and way of life, making the state

at Haridwar and Rishikesh. The ritual bath or the Kumbh

a prosperous basket of culture. Today they flourish in 55

their own small but beautiful ways. The rich socio-cultural

the cultural diversity of the place. Uttarakhand is also

activities are celebrated with great energy by the people and

known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Land of Festivitiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; owing to the numerous

are great tourist attractions, as well as learning hot spots.

fairs and festivals that take place here, like the Nanda

Fairs are an inseparable part of the social and cultural life,

Devi Mela, Holi Mahotsav and Dussehra. The four most

and encourage the strengthening of social ties across castes,

holy pilgrimage sites, Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath

religions and all sections of society. Traditional art forms

and Badrinath, referred to as Char Dham, lie here and

are revived at such fairs and get the recognition and support

have been sanctified by holy saints and pilgrims since

they need to continue down the ages.

ancient times.

Uttarakhand is a land of lore and legends, and of

Pilgrims come on a spiritual journey, making this place

holy rivers. The sacred shrines, temples and rivers are

an important pilgrimage destination visited by thousands

woven with a series of legends and folk tales that reflect

of people in search of the divine.

Group dance at a Kumaon wedding

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Devotees deep in prayer at Gangotri

Char Dham In the lofty peaks of the Himalayas lie the four most

Each site of the Char Dham is dedicated to certain Gods

holy pilgrimage sites in the state. Yamunotri, Gangotri,

and Goddesses. Yamunotri is dedicated to the Goddess

Kedarnath and Badrinath, collectively known as Char

Yamuna and she accompanies the devotee to the high

Dham or four pilgrimage places, are the main centres for

altitude, picturesque region of Rawaii Ghaati. Yamunotri

religious activity in North India. Devotees traditionally

stands high up in the deep cleft on the western face of the

make their way to Yamunotri as the first destination and

Banderpunch Peak. The most holy area of the Yamuna is

then move towards Gangotri and Kedarnath, followed by

the Divya Shila, a dark rock from where the hot springs

Badrinath which is the end of the journey. Aspiring to

emerge. This is the origin of the Yamuna and pilgrims offer

wash away their sins and attain salvation and blessings

their first puja here. It is believed that a bath in the waters

from above, thousands of devotees undertake this holy

of the Yamuna protects the devotee from akaalmrityu or

journey to experience eternal bliss.

untimely death that prevents one from attaining moksha. 57

Gangotri, known as the source of River Ganges, is

Badrinath is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is set

dedicated to the Goddess Ganga. The shrine overlooks

against the backdrop of the Neelkanth Peak between the

the River Bhagirathi and here the Ganga is also known

Nar and Narayan mountains. It is situated on the banks

as Bhagirathi, named after the ancient King Bhagirath

of the River Alaknanda at an altitude of 10,276 metres.

whose penance brought her down from the heavens.

According to legend, Lord Vishnu meditated here while

Goddess Ganga is the main deity here and the stone slab

his consort Lakshmi took the form of a berry (badri) tree

or the Bhagirath Shila where King Bhagirath meditated

to offer him shade.

is near the temple.

Before embarking on this journey, one has to be prepared

Kedarnath is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also a

for both physical and mental hardships as the road to be taken

part of the Panch Kedar Yatra. It is the northernmost

is not easy. Char Dham Yatra is one of the most accessible

Jyotirlinga and is close to the source of the holy River

yet arduous yatras in the state and is bustling with activities

Mandakini. Adi Shankaracharya is said to have attained

especially during the summer. The scenic beauty of the place

samadhi in the shrine behind the famous Kedarnath

and the mystical mountains solemnly prepare the pilgrims

Temple at the age of 32.

as they move towards their destination.

Kedarnath - one of the holiest temples dedicated to Lord Shiva

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Find oneness with God at Badrinath

Yamunotri beckons devotees of Goddess Yamuna 59

Lakshman Jhula at Rishikesh

Rishikesh Rishikesh is a small town situated 532 metres above sea level in the Dehradun district of Uttarakhand. Rishikesh gets its name from the Sanskrit word ‘hrishik’, meaning senses and ‘ish’ meaning master, after the Sage Raibhya who did penance to Lord Vishnu, believed to be the conqueror of the senses.

to Rishikesh has made it the most desirable tourist destination and pilgrimage centre. The best way to explore the town of Rishikesh is on foot as the town is hilly and has narrow lanes. To cross the River Ganga, one can take a motor ferry from the narrow suspension iron bridge known as the Ram Jhula

The holy city of Rishikesh is visited by many

which is near Swargashram. The Lakshman Jhula is a

people who are on a serious soul-searching mission.

famous hanging bridge across the Ganga and is about

Since Satyug, Rishikesh is known to be the abode of

3 kilometres from Rishikesh. It is a 450-foot suspension

the sages and is considered to be the gateway to the

bridge and was built in 1939. It is said that Lord Ram’s

Char Dham and Panch Kedar Yatras. This place has no

brother Lakshman crossed the Ganga on a jute rope from

dearth of temples, ashrams and spa resorts, and is also

here. The Lakshman Jhula is a bridge across the Ganga,

known as the yoga capital and adventure sports hub

along the old route to the holy shrines of Badrinath and

of Uttarakhand. This three-fold importance attached

Kedarnath.

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Crossing the Ganga via the Ram Jhula

The other suspension bridge or Ram Jhula is surrounded

spiritual gatherings called â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;aartiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The Rishikund or Sages

by a cluster of ashrams on both sides. The ancient

Pond is nearby, where holy men performed fire rituals in

Hindu saint Adiguru Shankaracharya is said to have

ancient times. On request of the sages for a place to bathe,

constructed the Bharat Mandir in the 12th century on the

the water of the Yamuna magically appeared in the kund

bank of the River Ganga in the heart of Rishikesh. The

and has stayed there ever since. The Raghunath Temple

108 parikramas of the Bharat Mandir are believed to be

dedicated to Lord Ram and Sita is situated here.

equivalent to the Badrinath Yatra. It is the oldest temple in Rishikesh and is also regarded as one of the most ancient shrines in India. Bharat Mandir is approximately half a kilometre away from Triveni Ghat.

Rishikesh is located in the Garhwal region at the confluence of the Ganga and Chandrabhaga rivers, marking the beginning of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, in the foothills of the Garhwal Himalayas and surrounded by the

It is believed that the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna

Shivalik range on three sides. Rishikesh is 25 kilometres

and the Saraswati took place at the Triveni Ghat. It is a most

to the north of Haridwar, and the journey time by road is

revered, sacred bathing spot in Rishikesh and is situated on

6-1/2 hours from Delhi. The route from Delhi is NH58 to

the banks of the River Ganges. Thousands of people come

Rishikesh via Modinagar, Meerut, Khatauli, Muzaffarnagar,

to take a holy dip in the sacred river and to observe the

Manglaur, Roorkee and Haridwar. 61

Purging the soul of all sin with a holy dip in the Ganga at Haridwar

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Haridwar Haridwar is the gateway to the four pilgrimages of

Gange!” with gusto while plunging into the holy water.

Uttarakhand and is also known as the gateway to the

Throughout the year, religious rituals like mundan or the

Gods. It is the dwar or door to Hari (Vishnu) and is one

head tonsuring ritual, upanayana or the initiation ritual,

of the oldest living cities. It has been mentioned as

asthi visarjan or immersion of the ashes of the dead and

Mayapuri, Gangadwar and Mokhsadwar in the ancient

shraddha or prayers propitiating one’s ancestors take

Hindu scriptures and epics. Haridwar, besides being a

place here. The place is crowded with devotees and priests,

religious place, has served as a centre for learning arts,

offering prayers to the Sun God and the holy Ganges.

science and culture right from the time of Buddha and continues even today.

The ‘Panch Teerth’ mentioned in the Puranas takes place in Haridwar and is located within the area mainly known

Haridwar is one of the first towns where the River

as Gangadwar (Har ki Pauri), Kushwart Ghat, Kankhal,

Ganga emerges from the mountains and makes its entry

Bilwa Teerth (Mansa Devi) and Neel Parvat (Chandi Devi).

into the plains. The age-old ritual of bathing in the sacred

Har ki Pauri is one of the most visited and famous holy

river is considered most important for the pilgrims and

places and is believed to be sanctified by the powerful

devotees cry out the celebratory exhortation of “Har, Har

trinity of Hindu mythology - Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh.

An evening Ganga aarti at Har ki Pauri

This sacred site was built by King Vikramaditya in honour of his brother Bharatrihari, the saintly poet who is reputed to have meditated here. The sacred Brahmakund is graced by the presence of the Ganga that flows in from one side and exits from the other. The Ganga Aarti ceremony that takes place from the promenade above the Brahmakund is a delight to watch as one can see the reflections of golden hues of floral diyas in the river while prayers are being offered to the Ganges. The auspicious Kumbh Mela held once every 12 years and the Ardha Kumbh Mela held once every six years attract a large number of people from different parts of the world. Haridwar is one of the four main sites where the Kumbh Mela takes place. Har ki Pauri is the place where divine nectar fell from the celestial kumbh that guaranteed immortality to those who drank it. In the race to attain immortality, the gods and demons got into a fight for possession of the precious pitcher and Indraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son Jayanta managed to get hold of it. While being chased by the others, Jayanta spilled four drops of the sacred nectar at four places: Ujjain, Haridwar, Trimbakeshwar and Prayag (Allahabad), sanctifying these places forever. The Maha Kumbh in Haridwar is full of festivities (mela) in the township at Har ki Pauri with religious, cultural and other commercial activities. Haridwar lies between the Terai forests of the lower Shivalik Hills and the western bank of the River Ganga, in lower Garhwal district. It is 54 kilometres to the south of Dehradun, 199 kilometres to the north-east of Delhi. The journey time by road is 6 hours from Delhi. The route from Delhi is NH58 to Haridwar via Modinagar, Meerut, Khatauli, Muzaffarnagar, Manglaur and Roorkee.

A devotee at the Kumbh Mela in Haridwar 64

C U L T U R E

Mansa Devi Temple

P E O P L E

Chandi Devi Temple

Located on the top of the Bilwa Parvat is the Mansa

Constructed in 1929 A.D. by the King of Kashmir,

Devi Temple in Haridwar. It is one of the most visited and

Suchat Singh, the Chandi Devi Temple is situated atop

prominent temples in North India. The Mansa Devi Temple

the Neel Parvat. It is said that Goddess Chandi Devi

is dedicated to the Goddess Mansa Devi, wife of the Nag

killed the army chief of the local demon king Shumbha-

King Vasuki and a form of Shakti (Power). The temple gets

Nishumbha and that is how the temple got its name. Adi

its name from the word â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;manshaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; which means wish and it

Shankaracharya is said to have installed the main idol of

is believed that the Goddess fulfills the wishes of a sincere

Goddess Chandi Devi in this temple in the 8th century

devotee. It is one of the famous Siddha Peethas and devotees

A.D. It is one of the well-known Siddha Peethas in North

tie threads on a holy tree that is located in the vicinity of the

India and devotees make their way to this temple to seek

temple for their wishes to be granted by the Goddess. They

the blessings of Chandi Devi and for their wishes to be

come back to untie them after their wishes are fulfilled.

fulfilled. The temple is six kilometres from Haridwar and

A particular statue of the Goddess in the temple has five

there is a three-kilometre trek to reach the temple. The

arms and three faces and another has eight arms. There is

devotees can also take the cable car or use the ropeway

a ropeway service known as Devi Udankhatola that carries

service leading to the temple that starts near Gauri

the devotees to Mansa Devi Temple.

Shankar Temple.

Mansa Devi Temple, Haridwar

Jageshwar Jageshwar is considered one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twelve sacred

in the carvings, even though a deity of Shiva resides in

jyotirlingas and is three kilometres from the main road

the temple. Nandini and Surabhi are the two streams

from Chitai and Almora. Known as Shivaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winter abode,

flowing down the hills and meeting at this sacred spot.

the temple town of Jageshwar Dham lies among the

The Mahamrityunjaya Temple is the oldest and the main

Kumaon Hills at a height of about 1,900 metres above sea

puja takes place here. The Dandeshwar Temple complex

level, and has more than 200 temples. Jageshwar has a rich

enshrines a large natural rock as a linga and is one of

heritage with 124 shrines dating from the 5th to the 18th

the biggest temples. A huge fair is held every year during

centuries. The forest protects and watches over the temples

the monsoons at Jageshwar. The Jata Ganga which was

of Jageshwar that lie in a beautiful narrow valley among

a medieval Lakula Shaivism centre is considered to be

the ancient deodars, where the murmur of the rivulets adds

a sacred teertha in the Kumaon region. Thousands of

to the sanctity of this place. The three main shrines here

devotees flock here during Shivratri in March-April and

are Jageshwar, Mahamrityunjaya and Pushtidevi.

for the Shravan Mela in July-August.

The Jageshwar Temple is about 100 kilometres from

Of the 400 temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, only

Nainital. Sculpted dwarpals can be seen at the entrance

124 have survived and are now being renovated by the

of this temple and a strong Buddhist influence is visible

Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Jageshwar

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Lakhamandal Lakhamandal is a place where the Pandavas lived

the time of the Pandavas are still observed. The ancient

during their exile. The Jatugriha where the jealous

Lakhamandal Temple is situated on a hill slope on the

son of blind King Dritharashtra conspired to burn the

banks of the river Yamuna and has rich remains of ancient

Pandavas alive in a palace made up of shellac, known as

temples, sculptures and inscriptions, some dating from

Lakshagriha or House of Shellac, is believed to be located

as early as the 5th century A.D. The temple exhibits the

here. The five brothers along with their consorts escaped

North Indian temple architectural style and is encircled by

unscathed with the help of Lord Krishna. They were also

lofty Himalayan peaks. It was built in the 8th century and

saved by the power of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati,

was constructed with numerous stone engraved figures

and so a Shakti temple was constructed here later. This

with a mythological association. The Shiva temple that

is an important pilgrimage place and is revered by the

comprises a ‘triratha sanctum’ is the only temple that has

Shakti cults who visit this place in search of peace and

survived in good condition across the ages. The temple

eternal bliss. An 18th century historic cave bearing the

has a five-storeyed ‘rekha-sikhara’ that leads to a modern

carving of a hundred stone figures and two Shivlingas is

hall and porch, and a large flagged court. The sanctum

of immense archaeological importance.

enshrines a Shivlinga and the doorway to the three sakhas

Lakhamandal falls in the Jaunsaar-Bhabur tribal area, where the customs and traditions as observed during

is carved with frolicsome ganas topped by matrikas and beveled scrolls.

Lakhamandal temple at Dehradun

Katarmal Sun temple

C U L T U R E

P E O P L E

Baijnath - welcoming worshippers since 1204 A.D.

Baijnath Baijnath is a place that resounds with myths, legends

Temple is about eight kilometres from Baijnath on the

and innumerable stories. It is located at a distance of

Gwaldam road. On the way to this temple, one can also

19 kilometres from Kausani and 26 kilometres from

visit Pandusthal that lies nearby. Two local merchants

Bageshwar. It is a small delicate town lying across a flat

Ahuka and Manyuka built the famous Baijnath Temple

valley called the Garur valley of Katyur and is adorned

that has been continuously worshipped at, ever since its

with verdant, rich hills and beautiful terraced fields. It

construction in 1204 A.D. There are two long inscriptions

was once upon a time the capital of the Katyuri dynasty of

in the porch of the temple indicating that a temple of

kings and then known as Kartikyapura. The construction

Shiva existed on the spot even before the present one

of the Baijnath Temple complex was undertaken by the

was constructed. The present Baijnath Temple is an

Katyuri kings. The bank of the River Gomti reflects the glorious past of this period and is famous for its group of

ideal example of the early medieval North Indian temple architecture known as Nagara style of temples.

temples. The 13th century A.D. ancient temples of Shiva,

Baijnath is known for its exquisitely carved and

Ganesh, Parvati, Chandika, Kuber, Surya and Brahma can

sculptured temples built by the Katyuri kings, which

be found here. The temple is famous for its ancient and

are considered as some of the finest creations of the

magnificent stone idol of goddess Parvati. The Kotkimai

Western Himalayas.

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Nanakmatta Gurudwara amid serene surroundings

Nanakmatta Nanakmatta is an important Sikh pilgrimage centre

as an ideal fishing and angling destination centre. The

that lies on the Rudrapur-Tanakpur route. Known as the

Nanakmatta Gurudwara is a sacred historical Sikh shrine

abode of the yogis, this place has many devotees of Guru

situated between Khatima and Sitargang on the Khatima-

Gorakhnath and was earlier known as Gorakhmatta. When

Panipat road. The significant Baoli Sahib is situated on the

Guru Nanak, the first Sikh Guru, visited this place in the

banks of the Ghaghar River in Nanakmatta near Nanak

16th century, its name was changed to Nanakmatta. Guru

Sagar Dam. When the yogis misused their powers by drying

Nanak is said to have meditated here and it believed that he

up the water of this area, Guru Nanak gave instructions to

even taught the yogis the true path of meditation.

Bhai Mardana to pick up a spade and go to a nearby river.

Guru Nanak was enchanted with the serene surroundings

He then had to drag the river behind him with the spade

and divinity of the place and is said to have bestowed

without looking behind. On doing so the river followed him

his blessings on it, which resulted in its development.

and stopped at the point where he looked behind to see

Nanakmatta is 17 kilometres from Khatima and is situated

the river flow. This made the yogis accept defeat and a

in the Udham Singh Nagar district in Uttarakhand. Another

baoli was constructed here. Nanakmatta is an important

attraction here that adds to the popularity of the place is the

pilgrimage centre and thousands of Sikh devotees flock

Nanakmatta Dam built across the Saryu River. This serves

here to attain divine blessings. 71

Shri Hemkund Sahib Hemkund Sahib is the highest gurudwara in the world,

to be blossomed with enlightenment and maturity. The

standing tall at a height of 4,329 metres above sea level.

pentagonal shape of the Gurudwara is also significant

It lies between seven sacred hills by the banks of the

in Sikh belief. The devotees undertake a parikrama

sacred Lokpal Lake, in the lap of the Garhwal Himalayas

of the shrine before entering, then take a holy dip in

in eastern Uttarakhand. Adjacent to the Gurudwara is a

the cold waters of the lake and recite the holy Jalji.

small Lakshman temple, which is a holy place for the local

The devotees exchange the waters between the holy

Hindus. The autobiographical account of the tenth Sikh

sarovar at the Golden Temple and the Hemkund Lake.

Guru Govind Singh says that it was at Hemkund that he

The granthi recites the commandments from the holy

meditated in his previous birth. It is the only gurudwara

book or the Hukamnamah.

connected with the previous birth of a Sikh Guru and is an important pilgrimage place.

Hemkund Sahib is an 18-kilometre trek from Govindghat. The journey is difficult and at times, the snow

Hemkund Sahib has striking architecture. The roof

has to be moved to make way. The last 5-kilometre stretch

is built in the shape of the urdha kamal or an inverted

is the most challenging route and devotees determined

lotus f lower. The urdha kamal is an important f lower

to reach the gurudwara amidst all the hardships are

in the Granth Sahib, and represents the soul of man yet

overwhelmed with a sense of achievement after reaching.

Inside the Hemkund shrine

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The Ashoka Relic at Kalsi

The Ashoka Relic The Ashoka Pillar Rock edict at Kalsi, built in 450

why the rock was put here for the pilgrims and travellers

B.C., represents the post-warfare era when King Ashoka

to see. The rock has a set of inscriptions for the Dhamma

converted to Buddhism. One edict at Kalsi is made

the people had to follow. This is now under the protection

of quartz, and is ten feet long and eight feet broad.

of the Archaeological Survey of India.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Gajottamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which means the most excellent elephant, is inscribed on the right side of the rock and is engraved in the eastern dialect of Magadhi in the Brahmi script, which was then the official language. The rock edict has around 14 inscriptions written in the Prakrit language. The national archaeological department has taken the responsibility of preserving the edict as it has great historical significance. The place lies near fields and here the Yamuna River meets with the Tons River. In the past, Kalsi lay on the pilgrimage route to Yamunotri, and that is

The Ashoka rock edict

Women of all ages knitting, in Harsil village

Sari village women at work

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Tribals The original natives of the land of Uttarakhand belong to different communities or tribes that have their own distinct and rich culture. The main tribes of the land are the Bhotias (Shaukas), Tharus, Buxas, Jaunsaris and Rajis. The Bhotias are the inhabitants of the districts Chamoli, Pithoragarh and Uttarkashi. Bhotia, which is a term derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Bhot’, is a generic name that includes the Shaukas of Munsiyari (Pithoragarh), Rangs of Dharchula (Pithoragarh), Tolchas and Marchhas of Niti and Mana valleys (Chamoli). These groups are mainly engaged in pastoral activities and are also known as Shaukas. The Tharus were once the largest scheduled tribes and are now settled in the Khatima and Sitarganj tehsils of Udham Singh Nagar districts. Some say that their descendants are the Rajputs, while some others trace their origin from the Mongols of Central Asia. Their language is heavily influenced by Hindi and Nepali. Marriage by exchange or ‘badla marriage’, where two men marry each other’s sisters was traditionally practiced here. The joint family system is very inherent here. The Biradari Panchayat is the political organization of the Tharus. The Tharus also believe in 36 deities, as well as in witchcraft, sorcery and sacrifices. They are an agricultural community who are also fishing experts. Women do not eat the fish touched by men and so the men and women fish separately. The Buxas are said to be the original inhabitants of the Terai belt and live in Udham Singh Nagar, Dehradun and Pauri Garhwal. They are the followers of Lord Rama and Krishna.

Rang lady in her traditional attire, Sosa village

Paintings The Pahari Chitrakala or Pahari Art of Painting is inspired by the battles between good and evil. It has covered vast subjects like Indian life; its history, culture and traditions, with a touch of divinity. There is a lot of spiritual content that can be seen in the art, literature and mythology that has survived for generations in the Indian sub-continent. The Pahari Kalam style of painting was developed in the Kumaon area and was practiced in some of the Himalayan regions. In the 17th century, the Mughal Prince Suleman Shikand took refuge in Garhwal. He was accompanied by a few artists well versed in the Mughal style of miniature paintings. They were instrumental in introducing the style now known as the Garhwal School of Painting. Pahari art also extends to cloth and wall paintings. Walls were plastered with a mix of mud and cow dung. The chatu-pattern is followed on the walls with red

Aipan

painted as the background and then replaced by the Laxmi Narayan pattern, which consists of two taciturn human figures inside a framework of dots. The chatupattern is a design structure that has stylistic similarities to the Buddhistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; structures. Aipan or Alpana is a popular Kumaoni art form done on walls, paper and pieces of cloth. This decorative art includes drawings of various geometric and other figures representing gods, goddesses and objects of nature. The pichhauras or dupattas are also decorated in this way. These ritual designs and patterns are an expression of a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artistic taste.

Jyounti Patta 76

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Wood carving called Tibari at Wan village

Low cost products made from Ringal or miniature bamboo 77

Chholia dance

Jhora dance at Lata village

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Garhwal dancers in a festive mood

Music And Dance Folk music and dance reflect the thoughts and emotions

Basanti folk songs are love songs sung as the Basant

of the people and are an important part of the culture

or spring season approaches. Mangal folk songs are sung

of the state of Uttarakhand. The main theme is love and

during marriage ceremonies and the Baujband folk songs

songs are sung in praise of various gods and goddesses of

are sung by shepherds in the form of a conversation

the Hindu pantheon. Apart from devotional songs, ballads

between a man and a woman. The other folk songs

of tales of princes and fairies are also sung. Love for rural

include Chhopati, which is a love song sung in the form

life and Nature is also expressed through song, dance and

of questions and answers by men and women who dance

music. Some of the classical ragas have evolved from the

in a circle. This is most prevalent in Khai-Jaunsar. The

rich and traditional folk music of Uttarakhand.

Chounphula and Jhumeila songs form a part of the

The spirit, heritage and lifestyle of the people are musically expressed by the folk songs of the Garhwal and Kumaon region. There are songs for every event like religious rites, ceremonies and festivals. They can be classified as religious, heroic, festive, seasonal and ceremonial songs. Accompanied by innovative musical instruments, the traditional folk songs speak of folk heroes and legends.

seasonal dances performed from Sankranti to Basant Panchami or Baisakhi. Khuded songs are sung, portraying the suffering of a woman parting from her husband. Chura songs are popular tunes sung by old experienced shepherds with a view to teach the young shepherd the tricks of his profession. The prominent folk songs are Mangal Geet, which is sung at any pleasant occasion, Awahan Geet is sung to 79

Boy playing wind instrument at Jaunsar tribal village

invite God on any occasion and Vivah Geet is sung at the

The dance forms are greatly influenced by mythology,

time of marriage. Pavade is an epic folk song of the Garhwal

religion and social events. Chamfuli is a popular dance

region related to the local heroes of the region and their

form of the Garhwal region. In this dance, men and

bravery. Hori Geet folk songs are related to the festival of Holi

women dance to the rhythm separately and together in

and Guda are the songs related to the philosophy of life.

pairs with impressive facial expressions. The Chholia dance is performed exclusively by the boys at a marriage

Original folk dances are attached to rituals and are also a

procession. A few of them dress up as soldiers and enact

means of entertainment. They can be broadly classified into

the scenes of fierce duels. After this dance, the bride is

occupational, seasonal, martial, devotional and ritualistic

carried away by her lover. This dance is a war dance and

dances. The prominent folk dances are the Bhotia Dance,

has existed for more than 2000 years.

Chamfuli and Chholia. The Bhotia Dance, Dandala, Chamfuli,

The Pandava dance performed during Dussehra

Dhusaka and Dhurang are the group folk dances of the

and Deepawali is enacted by narrating the story of the

Bhotias and are quite similar to the Garba dance of Gujarat.

Mahabharata along with dance and music. The Badra Nati

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Lata village women singing Jhagar songs

dance is performed by men and women wearing colourful costumes, during religious festivals and on other social occasions. On the occasion of the bride’s first visit to her parent’s home after marriage, the Tharu dance is performed to welcome the newly-married couple. The Khuder dance is performed by women when they remember their parents’ home. The Chanchari dance is a dance related to the Garhwal and Almora region. The Jhoda or Jhanjhari dance of Kumaon is staged spectacularly on a full moon night by young men and women.

Hudka, a local percussion instrument 81

Mukhota Dance 82

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Jhanda fair at Jhanda Darbar

Fairs And Festivals The cultural heritage can be seen in the folk music,

here. Every year, after the festival of Holi, thousands of

songs, dances, fairs and festivals of the people. Termed

devotees visit this place to celebrate the annual fair called

as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Land of Festivitiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the spirit of the people

Jhanda Mela. The Jhanda Bazaar here is known for its old

of Uttarakhand is captured in the fairs and festivals

havelis. Organized in the month of March, the mela is held

celebrated here. Deep rooted in the local traditions, these

to commemorate the arrival of Guru Ram Rai to Dehradun

events are known not only for their religious significance,

to establish his dera. The city was therefore named Dera

but also for their social significance. The festivals and

Doon and later renamed Dehra Dun.

fairs play an important role in the community as they commemorate sacred and significant events. The

The Jhanda Mela begins with the hoisting of the new flag or Nishan Sahib. Attended by thousands of devotees

attractive fairs and festivals draw the attention of

and Sangats belonging to the Udasin sect of the Sikhs

visitors from far and wide. This is an important platform

from Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Paradesh, Delhi and Uttar

for socio-cultural and economic exchanges, and they

Pradesh, the celebrations of the mela have continued for

are celebrated with great spontaneity.

more than three centuries now. The devotees pay their

Jhanda Mela

respects to the Mahant of Guru Ram Rai Durbar and it is said that the darshani gilaf or the velvet cover put on

In the second half of the 17th century, the seventh Sikh

top of the jhanda or pole has been booked till the year

Guru Ram Rai settled in the city of Dehradun, making

2075 which shows the immense faith of the believers.

this city an important place for the Sikhs. Welcomed by

The Nagar Parikrama (circumambulation of the city) is held

the ruler of Dehradun, Guru Ram Rai built a gurudwara

during this mela by the devotees who walk barefoot. 83

Kandali fair

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Apart from its religious importance, the fair attracts huge crowds every year, transforming the Durbar Sahib area into a hub of vibrant activities. The narrow pathway surrounding the historic Durbar has shops on both sides, and items right from cosmetics to pickles are sold at the fair.

Kandali Kandali is one of the most unique festivals in Uttarakhand. The people here celebrate this festival in the months of August and October when the Kandali flower blooms once every twelve years in the Chaudans region of Pithoragarh district. It is celebrated for a week with much vigour and enthusiasm by the Shaukas or the Rangs. Kandali is an important festival for the womenfolk as they lead the procession armed with a rill (an implement used in compacting carpet on the loom) followed by children and men armed with swords and shields. Dressed in their traditional best, the locals gather around a tree on the sacred ground of the village. Strips of white cloth are tied to the tree and a flag is raised. War-like tunes are played on approaching the flowers and the women attack the bushes with their rills. The menfolk then come to their aid and hack the bushes with their swords. They pray that the people of Chaundas valley may always be victorious over the enemy. The festival commences with an auspicious ceremony where the courtyard of every house is beautifully decorated. The linga of Lord Shiva made of barley and buckwheat flour mixture is worshipped and the locals perform the puja with much veneration, for prosperity and well-being. The individual pujas are followed by a community feast and the celebrations continue throughout the night.

Nanda Devi Mela Nanda Devi is the patron Goddess of Uttarakhand and several shrines are devoted to the Devi all across the central Himalayas. The Nanda Devi Mela is one of the most popular festivals in Uttarakhand and attracts

Kumaon region during the reign of Raja Kalyan Chand in the 16th century. The Nanda Devi Jat is celebrated every year in the Nanda Devi temples spread across the Garhwal and

people from all across the country to the remotest

Kumaon regions. The festival commences on the day

corners of the state. Nanda means well-being and

earmarked for the Deviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visit to her maiti or parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

prosperity. The mela is held as a symbol of spiritual and

home and culminates with the return to her husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

material prosperity in September in memory of Goddess

home. This tradition is beautifully expressed in the folk

Nanda and Sunanda. It is said to have started in the

songs sung by the Jagar women of Uttarakhand. The

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Nanda Devi Mela

Chhoti Jat Yatra celebrations begin at the end of August

at Almora participate in this auspicious procession,

or early September, starting from Wan and ending at

carr ying the dola of Nanda Devi. This royal pilgrimage

Bedini Bugyal. This festival is then transformed into a

was last held in the year 2000, with an estimate of

huge affair once in every 12 years at Roopkund when a

over 5,000 people undertaking this arduous journey.

four horned sheep is born and is known as the Nanda Raj Jat. This magnificent 21-day journey is undertaken by thousands of people, who are guided by a four-horned ram leading to Shivaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home at the base of Trishul.

The Nanda Devi Melas are held at Almora, Nainital, Nauti, Dandidhara, Munsiyari and Ranikhet, of which the Almora and Roopkund fairs are the most famous ones.

The Nanda Devi Temple at Almora was built during the reign of Raja Udhyot Chand. Thousands of pilgrims 87

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Tharu tribe

A Kumaoni woman in her traditional attire

R I V E R S

Rivers

[ 91 ]

ivers have been the life-givers of all civilizations. The rivers of Uttarakhand are no exception in the wholesome bounty they bestow as they

flow down mountain slopes and into the plains. Born in the deep glacial chambers of the magnificent Himalayas, the mighty rivers of Uttarakhand have brought people together and nurtured their way of life. If the mountains of Uttarakhand are home to the gods and the goddesses, it is only natural for the rivers rising in the lap of these mountains to carry a lot of religious significance. Many of the rivers therefore borrow names from Hinduism. The holiest of all Hindu rivers, the Ganga, gushes from Gaumukh in the Gangotri Glacier and flows on to nourish the soils of the Indo-Gangetic plain, whilst bringing people closer to each other and themselves. A dip in the holy waters of the Ganga promises to wipe the soulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slate clean of all sin. The confluences of rivers are considered to be extremely important holy places to which millions of devotees flock every year. The Panchprayag is one such important confluence with five rivers coming together. Other famous rivers in the region include the Yamuna, the Bhagirathi and many other tributaries and distributaries of the holy river such as Dhauli Ganga, Girthi Ganga, Rishi Ganga, Bal Ganga, Bhilangna River, Tons River, Alaknanda, Nandakini, Pindar and Mandakini. These rivers, along with their tributaries, are vital sources of irrigation and power for the whole state. The many tributaries, streams and rivers of Uttarakhand all come together to form this one great holy river. The banks of these venerated rivers are speckled with shrines

Not only are the rivers of Uttarakhand revered by the

and temples and are often teeming with devout pilgrims

devout, but they are also an adrenaline junkieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s playground.

at different times of the year, celebrating big and small

Crazy rapids and waterfalls in the upper reaches of the rivers

festivals, anniversaries and special occasions.

make for exhilarating white water rafting episodes. For the

R I V E R S

River Ganga near Narkota village

less adventurous, activities like sailing, boating, fishing and angling can be enjoyed whilst soaking in all that Nature has to offer. Treks and riverside camps are other ways one can experience Uttarakhand in all its glory. 93

Gangotri Falls

R I V E R S

Ganga The holiest of all Hindu rivers, the Ganga takes

The river in its upper stages is known as Bhagirathi,

shape in Uttarakhand. In Uttarakhand, the Ganga flows

after King Bhagirath. As it flows down, it acquires

everywhere as the smallest stream, river and tributary.

different names crowned with religious significance.

With its source at Gaumukh, the river begins in the heights

Before merging with the ocean, the river divides itself into

of the Gangotri Glacier, which in the local language literally translates into “Ganga uutri” or “Ganga descending”. It is believed that Ganga, the daughter of heaven, descended at the command of King Bhagirath. The glacial waters then take a 25 metre plunge into the Gauri Kund, from where the river starts her cross-country journey, which terminates at the island town of Ganga Sagar in West Bengal. The Ganga river system drains a large chunk of the

several streams and drains into the Bay of Bengal. Also merging with the Ganga here is the River Brahmaputra. The Ganga assumes other names here, such as the Padma and the Meghna. Hindus believe that a dip in the holy waters of the Ganga purges mortal souls of all sin. The Ganga is not just an attraction for soul-searching pilgrims, but is also a very popular watersports hub.

Himalayas right from the eastern slopes of the Shimla ridge

The raging rivers are perfect for adventure enthusiasts

to eastern Nepal, which is actually the central Himalayas

who can get their fill of thrill with white water rafting

that contain the Kumaon and Garhwal regions. With its

in the upper reaches of the river, where rapids are many.

famous tributaries, the Yamuna and Kali, three smaller

If hurtling over steep rocky river terrain on speedy icy

river systems are formed, namely the Yamuna system, the

waters isn’t your thing, other river activities like boating

Ganga system and the Kali system.

or kayaking can be enjoyed.

Kayaking in the River Ganga

White water rafting at Danielâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dip rapids, Rishikesh

R I V E R S

River Yamuna near Yamunotri

R I V E R S

Yamuna The Ganga isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t alone in her holy ebb and flow. The river superbly branches into tributaries and distributaries that go on to flow in their own invigorating ways. River Yamuna is a tributary and rises in the Yamunotri Glacier, at a height of 6,387 metres in the Uttarkashi district, in the flank of the south-west slopes of the Bandarpunch peak in the lower Himalayas. Some say the source of the river is the Saptarishi Kund, a glacial lake. The Yamuna and its tributaries also form part of the Ganga catchments. The Doab region drained by the Ganga and the Yamuna is considered to be one of the most fertile regions in the Indian sub-continent. It drains Western Garhwal, broadly covering almost half of Western Uttarkashi, a small part of the Tehri Garhwal and about two-thirds of the western regions of Dehradun. It travels a total length of 1,376 kilometres, draining practically forty percent of the entire Ganga basin, before merging with the Ganges at Triveni Sangam, Allahabad, the site for the famous Kumbh Mela which is held every 12 years. This site is believed to be the place where Hanuman offered penance. The Yamuna is sometimes considered to be even holier than the Ganga, because it was here that Lord Krishna spent a lot of his childhood. Like the dip in the Ganga, it is believed that bathing in the Yamuna will release the soul of all sin and contamination, and further its progress toward liberation.

Alaknanda The source of the Alaknanda lies in the ranges

The stretch of the Alaknanda River that f lows through

above the temple town of Badrinath. Between the

this pilgrim centre is also known as the Vishnu

twin peaks of Nar and Narayan, emerges the river. It

Ganga. The other major tributaries of the Ganga are

is believed that the 8th centur y religious reformer, Sri

Dhauli Ganga, Rishi Ganga, Bal Ganga, Bhilangana,

Adi Shankarachar ya was visited by Lord Vishnu at the

Mandakini, Pindar and Nandakini rivers.

banks of the Alaknanda. Upon Lord Vishnuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s request, Shankarachar ya is said to have retrieved a stone idol of the god and mounted it in the Badrinarayan temple.

100

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Bhagirathi Rising from the Gaumukh is the source stream of

the Ganga. White water rafting and kayaking are

the River Ganga that turns into a turbulent river. The

popular on the Bhagirathi, and in fact, the river

headwaters of the River Bhagirathi are born in the

expeditions on the waters of the Bhagirathi are some

region of the Gangotri and Khatling Glaciers in the

of the best rafting experiences to be enjoyed. Some

Garhwal Himalayas. From here, the river f lows for

of the famous rapids include the “Elephant Rock”,

about 205 kilometres before meeting the Alaknanda

“The Chute”, “Sharp S”, “Conf luence Rapids” and

River in the town of Devprayag. As it f lows downstream

many more, till its conf luence with the Alaknanda at

from this sacred conf luence, the river is known as

Devprayag to form the Ganga.

Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi

101

Bhagirathi River

102

R I V E R S

Ramganga Like the Kosi, Ramganga is also a river of the Ganga system. It drains the western parts of Almora and south-east portions of the Garhwal district. It rises in the slopes of the lower Himalayas in central Kumaon on the south-east side of the water divide of the Alaknanda River. It flows through the Dun valley of the Corbett National Park and joins the Ganga near Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh. The Ramgangaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s course through the Corbett National Park sprouts flora and fauna amidst a wilderness brimming with dense forests, which are home to endangered tigers, leopards, elephants and over 600 species of birds. Fish like the Golden Mahseer and Gounch (Cat Fish) swim in the waters of the Ramganga and these make the river known for its angling expeditions.

Mahseer, a kind of Barbel

Ramganga at Thal

103

Sunset at Tons

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Tons The Tons is the largest and most important tributary of the Yamuna and f lows through the Garhwal region in Uttarakhand, touching Himachal Pradesh. It rises in the snow fields beyond the valley of Har Ki Dun. Tons is born from the meeting of two streams, namely the Supin and Rupin streams, which converge near Naitwar, and the consequent f low of their meeting gives birth to the Tons River. The famous Duryodhan Temple in Jakhol is located on the banks of this river. River Tons is well known for its several river camps and is fast becoming a major destination for adventure sports like white water rafting, thanks to its many rapids. The typical season for rafting in Tons lasts till July. The river rafting style on the Tons is quite different from most Himalayan rivers. The majority of rapids here are best described as medium volume, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;boulder gardenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in style. The river is uninterrupted and quite steep, making it best suited for rafters wanting a physical challenge and for veteran kayakers.

105

Kali River Kali is the most important and largest river in

East and Ramganga East. Saryu is the largest tributary,

the Kumaon region. It forms the border between India

which rises in the north-west area of Baijnath in Central

and Nepal, draining both Eastern Kumaon and Western

Kumaon. It merges with the Kali River at Pancheshwar.

Nepal. The Kali is fed by glaciers, some of which lie in

The temple town of Baijnath and Pancheshwar are

Nepal and others in the Kali valley adjoining Lipulekh.

important settlements along the Saryu River. The river

Its many tributaries include Saryu, Gori, Kuti, Dhauli

flows through a fascinating environment that is home to

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The majestic Kali River

a diversity of endangered species, and the best way to get a good glimpse of this is by rafting in the exhilarating rapids of the Kali. One will discover several species of very rare hornbills, monkeys, elephants, wild boars, sambar deer, crocodiles, giant squirrels and perhaps even leopards and black panthers. 107

Devprayag, the confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi

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Panchprayag Most of the rivers of Uttarakhand carry the silt of

Devprayag, the river is known as Ganga. This confluence

religious significance with them and are venerated by

is deemed to be the essence of eternal piety. Situated at

devotees. The confluences of these rivers are therefore

a height of 618 metres, this confluence is no less holy

held in even higher spiritual regard. It is no wonder

for most people than the Triveni Sangam at Allahabad.

then to expect a whirlpool of divinity when five rivers

The most celebrated occasion at Devprayag is the flock

come together in holy confluence. Panchprayag means

of devotees who visit the place to worship the image of

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Five Confluencesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and the rivers that come together are

Lord Rama at the Raghunath temple. It is believed that

River Alaknanda with Dhauli Ganga, Nandakini, Pindar,

King Dashrath and his son, Lord Ram, offered penance

Mandakini and Bhagirathi at Vishnuprayag, Nandaprayag,

at this place. Some of the oldest stone inscriptions in the

Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag and Devprayag respectively.

region can be found at Devprayag. Rudraprayag is the

After the confluence of Alaknanda with Bhagirathi at

confluence of the Alaknanda and the Mandakini rivers.

Vishnuprayag, confluence of Alaknanda and Dhauli Ganga

109

Alaknanda and Pindar meet at Karnaprayag

110

R I V E R S

111

The dense forests around this region are home to

spot is a major tourist attraction and trekkers are

a variety of wildlife. The waters of the Pindari River

frequently seen here on their way to Tapovan across

f low all the way from the Pindari Glacier to join the

the Kunwari Pass, or on their way to Roopkund. At

Alaknanda at a place called Karnaprayag, at a height of

1,372 metres, Vishnuprayag is the conf luence of the

788 meters. There is also a temple dedicated to Karna,

Vishnu Ganga and Dhauliganga rivers. There is an

the son of Queen Kunti and Lord Surya. Other temples at

ancient temple here by a pool called Vishnukund. It

the conf luence are dedicated to Narayan, Gopal, Shiva

is believed that the sage Narada worshipped Vishnu at

and Uma. The union of the Alaknanda and Nandakini

this holy spot, and Vishnu, satisfied with his austerity,

rivers forms Nandaprayag at 914 metres. This beautiful

blessed him.

Alaknanda meets Mandakini at Rudraprayag

112

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Lakes & Reservoirs

[ 113 ]

113

ttarakhand

not

just

about

majestic

them. Many of the lakes are repositories of seasonal

mountains, icy glaciers, lush alpine valleys and

rain water and are nothing more than insignificant

undiscovered flora and fauna. Appearing as if

depressions, while the more important and extensive

out of nowhere are beautiful lakes that contain a lot more than fish in their glistening cold waters. Infused with myths and legends, these lakes are blue and green jewels that crown the exquisiteness of this region.

ones are of glacial origin. These lakes are ideal recreational hubs for seekers of tranquility and relaxation, for those searching for an escape from humdrum, big city life. Boating, sailing,

The high altitude lakes in this region serve as

fishing, treks and camps can be enjoyed. The Assan

mirrors to the awesome Himalayan peaks that surround

Barrage sees a host of migratory birds stopping by as

114

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

they make their way to their winter destinations.

stor y to tell and are tied to some religious threads of

Bird-watchers, photographers and nature-lovers will

the past, which lure f locks of pilgrims even today.

have a lot to appreciate and discover in the vicinities

Trailing off from the path that leads to the Valley of

of the lakes, not only in terms of peace of mind, but

Flowers is the Hemkund Lake which is held in special

also in the thriving wildlife and vegetation around

regard by Sikhs, since it is associated with the tenth

these lakes.

Guru, Guru Gobind Singh. Many other lakes are fringed

Mountains, glaciers and rivers in Uttarakhand all

with temples or religious spots that attract tourists

have some religious significance attached, and the

and pilgrims alike. Moreover, the more inaccessible

lakes are not to be left out. These lakes all have a

the lake, the greater the sanctity attached to it.

115

Boats at Naini Lake 116

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Naini Lake Nainital is a sparkling gem in the splendid Himalayan kingdom. This picture perfect spot of nature is dotted with many lakes, earning it the distinction of being known as the ‘Lake District of India’. The Naini Lake is an important lake of this region. This lunar-shaped natural freshwater lake was born from a depression in the Nainital town of the Kumaon region, owing to tectonic movement. The lake is fed by freshwater streams from the upper slopes and is surrounded by peaks blanketed with vegetation, characteristic of high altitude vegetation such as conifer forests and chir pine forests. Naini Lake is one of the four lakes in the Kumaon hills, the three other being Sat Tal, Bhimtal and Naukuchiya Tal. Three mountain peaks border the lake, namely the Naina Peak on the north-western front, Tiffin Top on the southwestern front and snow-capped peaks on the northern front. Naini Lake is chiefly fed by the Balia Nala stream. This enchanting lake is Nainital’s tourist hot spot, with yachting and boating being very popular activities. All the elite hotels are in the lake’s vicinity and it is also a popular recreational spot. The origin of the Naini Lake is rooted in many a mythological tale. One story says that Naini Lake was earlier known as ‘Tri-Rishi-Sarovar’, meaning ‘the lake of the three sages’. These three sages - Atri, Pulastya and Pulaha - of the Saptirshi group landed in Nainital during a pilgrimage, and did not find water to drink. They dug the ground and worshipped the spot in the hope that water would emerge from the ground. It is believed that their worship resulted in the hole overflowing with water drawn from the sacred Mansarovar Lake. Hence, the locals consider it sacred to take a dip in Naini Lake. 117

118

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Snow-covered Nainital

119

According to another local legend, Sati, Lord Shivaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Historical records declare that the British discovered

consort, committed suicide at the yajna of Daksha

the lake in 1839, when Mr. P. Barron, a British

Prajapati. When Lord Shiva wandered across the universe

businessman, came across this lake on a hunting

carrying her dead body, Satiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye fell near the lake,

expedition. A news magazine, the Englishman Calcutta,

where the Naina Devi Temple stands today. The waters

also reported this discovery. Whatever are the myths

of the lake are therefore considered holy and the Naina

and records, the fact remains that even today, the life

Devi Temple is the venue of an autumnal fair.

of Nainitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people revolves around Naini Lake.

120

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The lake and township of Bhimtal

Bhimtal Situated in the green lap of the Kumaon Hills and

from the shore. Located on the banks of the lake is the

perched at an altitude of 1,370 metres, Bhimtal is a

famous Bhimeshwara Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva.

small town in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand. It is

It is believed that Bhim actually constructed the temple

named after Bhim, one of the five Pandavas mentioned

himself. However, the temple was reconstructed in the 17th

in the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata. With its intimate

century by Baz Bahadur of the Chand Dynasty. Close

association with history and interesting tourist spots,

to the temple lies a small hill called the Garg Parvat,

Bhimtal is a popular tourist destination, with the most

which is the source of the Gargi River. Another famous

prominent attraction being the ‘Bhimtal Lake’, which is

spot in Bhimtal is the hill of Karkotaka, known for its

larger than the famous Naini Lake. The emerald green

‘Nag Temple’, visited by devotees on Rishi Panchami

waters of the Bhimtal Lake mirror the lovely greenery

to seek the blessings of ‘Nag Karkota Maharaj’. About

that abounds and conjures a striking vision. Spread over

five kilometres from Bhimtal is a small hill known as

a vast area, Bhimtal Lake is home to a rich diversity of

‘Hidimba Parvat’, named after Bhim’s wife, Hidimba.

aquatic life, and during the winter months, the lake is

Today, the hill houses a beautiful wildlife sanctuary,

visited by migratory birds. Boat cruises are an excellent

known as Vankhandi Ashram.

way to soak in the beauty of the place.

Within a range of two kilometres from Bhimtal, lies

Not only can tourists enjoy boating in the lake, they

a small natural lake called Nal-Damyanti Tal and locals

can also take delight in enjoying a meal on an island

consider this place to be sacred. Apart from that, the lake

right in the middle of the alluring lake, 90 metres away

is also known for being a popular picnic spot. 121

Naukuchiya Tal Naukuchiya Tal is perhaps one of the most

Naukuchiya Tal is not only laden with picture-

beautiful lakes in Uttarakhand. This unique nine

perfect natural beaut y, but also offers tourists the

cornered lake lies in the foothills of Kumaon, at an

oppor tunit y to explore and discover the varied

altitude of 1,219 metres, and is 24 kilometres away

biodiversit y and species of wildlife contained in

from Nainital. Fed by an under water spring, this

its mesmerizing tranquilit y. Uncommon adventure

lake is surrounded by dense oak forests on all sides.

spor ts

The locals believe that whoever sees all the corners

paragliding and parasailing attract a major chunk

of the lake at f irst glimpse, at once attains Nir vana.

of Uttarakhand visitors to this place.

Colourful boats await tourists at Naukuchiya Tal

122

angling,

trekking,

bird-watching,

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Sat Tal Sat Tal is one of the major tourist attractions of

a wonderful rendezvous with nature. Apart from

Uttarakhand, located in Nainital. In Hindi, the term Sat

natural serenity, the rugged mountains of Sat Tal also

Tal means “seven lakes”. The place is so called because

offer adventure seekers a wide range of opportunities

it is an interconnected group of seven freshwater

like trekking, biking, abseiling, mountain biking, rock

lakes, namely ‘Panna or Garud Tal’, ‘Nal-Damyanti

climbing, night-trekking, nature trails, backpacking,

Tal‘, ‘Purna Tal’, ‘Sita Tal’, ‘Ram Tal’, ‘Laxman Tal’,

angling, kayaking, rafting, river-crossing, jungle-

and ‘Sukha Tal or Khurdariya’. Sat Tal is located in

safari and night-camping. Boating and fishing can

the lower range of the Himalayas, just 23 kilometres

also be enjoyed at Sat Tal. The unique biodiversity of

away from Nainital. At an altitude of approximately

this lake includes 500 species of natural and migratory

4,000 feet, surrounded by dense oak and pine forests,

birds which makes for amazing bird-watching. This

it boasts of pristine beauty. With most of its f lora

is enhanced by the 525 varieties of butterf lies that

and fauna left undisturbed, Sat Tal offers visitors

f lutter in the vicinity.

Sat Tal, a group of seven small lakes nested together

123

A peaceful, magical experience at Devaria Tal

Devaria Tal Devaria Tal (also known as Deorai Tal) is a beautiful lake located near Ukhimath in Uttarakhand, perched at a height of 2,438 metres in the depths of the Kedarnath area of the Garhwal Himalayas. Considered to be a very holy place, this lake captivates the senses with its waters reflecting the snow-blanketed peaks that surround it. 124

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

A trek of a couple of kilometres takes one to this

The sparkling deep green waters of the lake are

wonderful lake, which is spread over 700 metres and

rimmed with dense green vegetation that could well be

is surrounded by the beautiful Chaukhamba peak. With

considered forests. A sunny day brings out the reflection

forests all around the lake, it is an ideal place for bird-

of the Chaukhamba range in the lake water. The sight of

watchers or for those who love angling. There is also a

the snow-bound peaks in the placid lake waters is magical

motorable road that leads to Devaria Tal.

and will transport you to a different world altogether. 125

Hemkund Lokpal Lake - a popular stopover for Sikh pilgrims

126

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Nanak Sagar Nanak Sagar is a lake created by the dam on the Deoha stream near Gurudwara Nanakmatta. This is a historical Sikh shrine in a town called Nanak, in the Udham Singh Nagar district of Uttarakhand. The town is associated with Guru Nanak Dev and Guru Hargobind. The Gurudwara is located 15 kilometres west of the Khatima Railway Station on the Pilibhit-Tanakpur metre-gauge section of North-Eastern Railway. The holy shrine is near the town of Sitarga.

Hemkund Lokpal Lake This large glacial lake lies at the cirque floor of the Saptshringi Glacier and is also fed by the hanging glacier. Lying in the upper regions of the Charmoli district in Garhwal, it is a well known pilgrimage site for the Sikhs, since Hemkund Sahib is located on its banks.

Sahastra Tal Sahastra Tal is located on the western end of the beautiful Khatling Glacier. It is a cluster of seven lakes near the glacier, about 30 kilometres away from Mala. The name suggests that there are or were many more glacial lakes like these scattered in this fairly remote region. Seven lakes have been identified, namely Dudhital, Darshantal, Lumbtal, Lingtal, Kokalital, Narsingtal and Parital. Darshantal is considered the most sacred of them all.

127

Assan Barrage A blue green lake, 43 kilometres from Dehradun,

house. Lying at the confluence of the rivers Yamuna and

has today become a hot spot for nature-lovers and bird-

Assan, it is popularly known as Dhalipur Lake and enjoys

watchers. Enthusiasts can be seen training their lenses on

distinct summer and winter seasons. Close to 53 species

the winged beauties at the Assan Barrage, which offers

of water birds can be found here. Migratory birds make

the best delights to those interested in photography and

this reservoir their habitat as they journey to their winter

conservation of the eco-system.

destinations. The Brahmini duck, red crested poacher,

The Assan Barrage is a man-made lake which was

pintail, mallard, coot, common teal and tufted duck are

developed in 1967 at the time of building the Dhalipur power

some of the species that throng the park. A bird-watching

128

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

safari is highly recommended for avid bird-watchers. The

The 2008 winter census of birds at the Assan Barrage

Assan Barrage also arranges boating facilities and is a

had recorded around 6,500 birds, an impressive figure.

treasure chest of adventure and bird-watching.

The Forest Department has created track routes in the

This wetland covers the area of approximately four square kilometres. It has achieved fame in recent years due to hundreds of birds, including the migratory species,

area, much to the delight of the bird-watchers and the nature-lovers. Eco-huts have also been set up in the area for the convenience of the tourists and bird-watchers.

that come here. The birds are spotted here in OctoberNovember and February-March.

129

Tehri Dam - one of the highest in the world

130

L A K E S

R E S E R V O I R S

Tehri The lovely district of Tehri Garhwal is located at

The Tehri Dam is the primary dam of the Tehri Development

an altitude of 770 metres above sea level. The name

Project, a major hydro-electric project centred near Tehri

Tehri comes from ‘Trihari’, a place that is believed to

Town. Located on the Bhagirathi River, the Tehri Dam

wash away the three types of sins – sins born from

stands tall at 855 feet, making it the fifth highest dam in

thought (Mansa), word (Vacha) and deed (Karmana).

the world. 131

The barren yet beautiful Vasuki Tal

Vasuki Tal Five kilometers from Kedarnath is the Vasuki Tal Lake

Ganga has its source in this lake. There is no vegetation

that lies at a height of 4,135 metres. The melting water

in this area and the lake freezes in winter. It is the shape

from the snow-clad mountains nearby drain into this

of the lake that has led to it being called the Vasuki Tal,

lake. Besides the Chor Bamak Glacier, it is also fed by the

since it resembles the snake Vasuki coiled around the neck

Vasuki Glacier. Icebergs float in its clear waters which

of Lord Shiva. An outstanding view of the Chaukhamba

reflect the peaks of the Kedarnath range. The Vasuki

Peak can be seen from this lake.

132

F O R E S T S

Forests

133

ore than half of Uttarakhand is carpeted

The earliest depictions of the forests of Uttarakhand

with divine green glory. The foothills of

are found in numerous rock paintings in shelters like

the magnificent Himalayas are rimmed

the Lakhudiyar Lweythap and Phalseema in the Almora

with a never-ending emerald necklace of forests that

District and the Gurkha Udiyar in Chamoli District.

characterize the soul of the inhabitants of this region. Home to a variety of flora, fauna and folklore, this green turf is also an intimate part of the life of the rural folk, especially in the hilly regions. So interwoven are their lives with the forests that life would come to a halt should they disappear. 134

Rock shelters are typically found in densely forested areas, far from communication routes and modern habitation sites. More than half the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s area is carpeted with forest vegetation. The Uttarakhand Forest Department therefore

F O R E S T S

Sal forest near Lachchiwala on the way to Rishikesh

plays an important role in maintaining these green

responsibility of looking after the people who depend on

regions, ensuring that green harmony pervades, keeping

these forests for their livelihood.

the ecological biodiversity of the state in mind.

The trees of Uttarakhand are a delight. Walking amidst

The forests of Uttarakhand are home to a variety

the trees of the state can give people some of the highest

of flora and fauna that continue to be admired and

states of enlightenment. After all, Tagore called India a

discovered. The terrain ranges from the overwhelming

civilization that had grown not in the cities but in the

Himalayan peaks to alpine fields to industrial plains.

forests. As such, trees and forests that have survived and

The hill economy is intimately linked with the green

flourished over millennia are witnesses not only to the

resources, which means the Department also takes on the

glory of Indian civilization, but are also testimony to a

135

Deodar trees, Dhanaulti

way of life that esteems harmony over conflict, peace

are widespread and diverse, ranging from the tropical,

over war, being one with Nature over mastery of natural

sub-tropical and temperate to alpine forests. Sustainable

resources, and finally of the sermon of saints that have

forestry is the present need of the hour to protect this

invariably poured forth as they attained enlightenment

resource from over-exploitation. The Forest Department is

sitting under trees.

doing its best to balance the situation and bring about the

The highest mountain system in the world is placed in the green lap of the forests of Uttarakhand. Its forests 136

necessary ecological balance, which is crucial to ensuring that the environment does not become our bane.

F O R E S T S

Fir Fir is a perennial large evergreen tree reaching 4060 metres in height with a trunk diameter of up to 2-2.5 metres. In the western Himalayas, it can be found at elevations between 2,500 and 4,000 metres. It adapts well in cool and moist conditions and can be grown for hardwood with a rotation of 150 years. It has a conical crown with levelled branches and the leaves are arranged spirally on the shoots. The needle-like leaves are 4-9 centimetres long, flattened in cross-section, and glossy dark green above. The Fir forests are protected from fire by the moist conditions, and due to their inaccessibility, are saved from logging. High altitude spruce fir forests are typical around the world and this is one of the most abundant tree species of the mountains. Besides being surrounded by clouds, fog and increasing exposure, these forests are a victim to acid rain deposits that take away their essential nutrients. This in turn makes them more susceptible to damage caused by other environmental factors, particularly the cold winter weather. The fir is an important timber tree in the country and is planted as an ornamental extensively in Europe and the western U.S. The other common names for this tree are West Himalayan fir, West Himalayan low-level silver fir, Paludar, Rewar, Tos, Rai, Pindrau, Rau, Kalrai, Span, Krok, Morinda and Ragha.

Fir trees at Kanchula Kharak, Chamoli district

137

Deodar The Deodar forests are large evergreen coniferous trees

The forests find it difficult to withstand the intense

of 40-50 metres in height found in the temperate zones

cold of winter and so prepare for it by ripening their

of Uttarakhand at an altitude of 1,800-2,400 metres. Also

wood during the warm dry summers. They follow an

known as Cedrus Deodara, some trees of 60 metres in height with a trunk up to 3 metres in diameter have also been found. The crown of the tree is conical when young and the branches of the tree are horizontally arranged. It has drooping branches and needle-like leaves 2.5-5 or 7 centimetres long. Found in dense clusters of 20-30 short or long shoots, the colour varies from bright green to blue-green. The best Deodar trees are found on deep,

isolated mode of growth and rise to great heights with straight branches tapering towards the sides, which then bend downwards and sweep the forest floor. The Deodar tree is also known as the wonder tree or Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gift to mankind. Besides providing good quality timber wood, the Deodar is helpful for a variety of purposes. The oil extracted from old branches of Deodar trees is used as an insect repellent and also to prevent or cure certain diseases and infections. The other common

well-drained soils and high atmospheric moisture is most

names for this tree are Himalayan Cedar, Diar, Deodar,

favourable for their growth.

Dedwar, Kelu and Kilar.

Trekking in a Deodar forest, Nainital

138

F O R E S T S

Pine Chir (Pine) is a large evergreen tree found at altitudes

metres, the leaves (needles) of this tree grow in groups

of 600-900 metres. The botanical name for this tree is

of five and are 12-18 centimetres long. The cones are

Pinus Roxburghii and it is also known as 3 Needle Pine.

16-32 centimetres long. The seeds and soft needles serve

The Himalayan subtropical pine forests are the largest in

as food for squirrels, chipmunks and mice, and its inner

the whole of the Indo-Pacific areas, and stretch across the

bark is a preferred winter food of the porcupines.

low hills of the Great Himalayan range as well as several North Indian states like Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim and Uttarakhand.

These forests are not prone to droughts, but often have to suffer from forest fires. The burnt forest slopes rejuvenate with grasses like imperata cylindrica,

The crown of the tree is elongated and pyramidal till

arundinella setosa, themeda anathera and cymbopogon

the middle portion and then tapers downwards, forming

distans, and multiple shrubs like berberis, rubus and

an umbrella-shaped structure with a massive branch

other thorny bushes. Though the sub-tropical pine

system. In places of favourable conditions, trees up to

forests are not exactly an ideal place for the fauna and

55 metres in height and 3.5 metres in girth have been

avifauna, it is the natural habitat of several endemic

recorded. The trees usually attain large dimensions and

bird and animal species that thrive in these regions and

form a straight cylindrical bole.

other adjacent eco-regions. The increasing deforestation

Blue Pine or 5 Needle Pine is known for its drooping

and shifting cultivation causes soil erosion and river

branches, soft feathery foliage and long resinous cones. Its

sedimentation. This poses a great threat to the integrity

botanical name is Pinus Roxburghii and it is also known

of this eco-region, gradually destroying the pine forests

as the Himalayan White Pine. At an altitude of 1,800-2,400

and the wildlife habitat.

Pine forest near Bageshwar

139

The breath-taking Corbett Falls

140

F O R E S T S

Corbett Falls This famous waterfall is yet another matter of pride of the much acclaimed Corbett National Park. Twenty five kilometres from Ramnagar, in the thick teak wood jungles, is a narrow winding road of 1.7 kilometres that takes one to the awe-inspiring Corbett Falls. Falling from a height of 20 metres, the Corbett Falls are surrounded by dense forests with a rich diversity of plant and bird species. The silence in this zone and the serene surroundings make this spot ideal for bird-watching and Nature walks. The spectacle is much more enticing than Kempty Falls of Mussoorie and is a famous camping hideout, picnic spot and trek route. To encourage awareness about the Corbett Falls and make it more accessible to the public, the Forest Department is taking necessary measures to provide all amenities, and regular public and private transport services are available that make this spot convenient for Nature enthusiasts and tourists. Photography is allowed free of cost and bathing is permitted in the Corbett Falls, but is risky due to the slippery moss gathered on the stones.

141

Kempty Falls - a picnickerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise

142

F O R E S T S

Kempty Falls In Mussoorie, one of the most popular hill stations of

of improper waste management on the site. Tourists are

North India is the 40-foot perennial Kempty Falls. Located

allowed to visit the Falls only in the months between

at a distance of 15 kilometres from Mussoorie and 20

March and July.

kilometres from Dehradun, this refreshing waterfall is set on a hilly terrain at an altitude of 4,500 feet. It was first developed as a tourist site by British officer John Mekinan in 1835 and now is one of Mussoorieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest attractions.

A stimulating bath is guaranteed in these falls as the water cuts and branches itself out on the rock faces. The place is exciting for photographers wanting to capture its fresh and enriching beauty. Posing in a Garhwali

Kempty Falls derives its name from â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;camp-teaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, since the

dress at the Kempty Falls is popular and tourists decked

British would often organize their tea parties here. With

out in the traditional Garhwali attire are often eyed by

water falling from a height of 40 feet, it splits into five

photographers all over the place. On climbing the steps

different cascades, adding to the beauty of the landscape.

across the road along the course of the stream, one finds

The place is ideal for picnicking, camping and trekking.

a rocky dell gently divided by the stream and cooled by

Trekking camps are held from Mussoorie to Kempty Falls

the water gushing through the boulders. Adventure treks

covering an area of 13 kilometres. The river Yamuna which

are conducted, which include rock-climbing, treks, nature

is 12 kilometres away is abundant with trout and serves

camps and river crossings that overlook the falls.

as a good destination for anglers. Permits are to be taken from the Mussoorie Divisional Forest Officer before fishing at Kempty Falls. Kempty Falls was once regarded as the most beautiful spot in Mussoorie, but is now losing its charm because

With the help of a few philanthropists, a Nature Park

was

established

near

the

Kempty

Falls.

Arrangements for accommodation in huts in the area around Kempty are made for those seeking more of the thrill of the gigantic falls.

143

Botanical Garden The Forest Research Instituteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (FRI) Botanical Garden

As one walks through the natural trails of the forest,

is a living heritage of the country and has some of the

it is easy to spot the strangulating giant climber, Entada

finest species of trees. With over 400 species of trees,

Parsaetha or St. Thomas Bean, which is spread over long

the Botanical Garden boasts of exotic varieties from

distances in the park. Chinar, the pride of Kashmir, can

Australia, South America, Africa, China and Japan. Chinar,

also be found in this garden. In the Vedic Age, the Ficus

Bhojpatra, Indian Horse Chestnut, St. Thomas Bean, Ficus

Krishnae tree leaves were used for writing manuscripts.

Krishnae, Ginkgo Biloba, Banj Oak and Deodar are some

This cup-shaped tree species is associated with Lord

of the tree species found here.

Krishna since he ate butter on these leaves.

144

F O R E S T S

The Maiden Hair Tree is native to China and Japan. It

researchers and students of local colleges and schools.

has not undergone any changes since its evolution and

The Botanical Garden, also known as a green marvel, is

is an interesting case study for any botany student. Its

an excellent source to gain knowledge on various aspects

scientific name is Ginkgo Biloba and it is a living fossil

of biodiversity and forest genetic resources.

found inside the park. The concept of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Green Theatreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; first originated here and is the brainchild of Dr. Sas Biswas, scientist and head of the Botany Division. This Theatre has helped

Housing some of the finest repositories and natural trails, the man-made forest is an ideal place to study the various aspects of tree morphology, phenology, regeneration and tree architecture, especially for students of biology and environment.

Peltophorum vogelianum in the Botanical Garden at FRI

145

The Forest Research Institute (FRI) The Forest Research Institute (FRI), Dehradun is a

to organize and lead forestry research activities in the

premier institution under the Indian Council of Forestry

country. Research activities mainly take place in the states

Research and Education (ICFRE). It is one of the oldest

of Punjab, Haryana, Chandigarh, Delhi, Uttar Pradesh and

institutions and has been instrumental in the evolution and development of scientific forestry in the country and the entire sub-continent. Spread across a lush green estate of 450 hectares, the Forest Research Institute edifice is engraved with Greco-Roman and Colonial

Uttarakhand. Forestry research at the FRI is organized under fourteen divisions. Valuable scientific knowledge has been researched and documented on the silviculture of over 550 species of trees. The FRI has worked on the

styles of architecture. Infrastructure of fully equipped

classification of forest types of India, Pakistan, Bhutan,

laboratories, library, herbarium, arboreta, printing press

Bangladesh and Myanmar and the silviculture systems

and experimental field areas for conducting forestry

for tropical forests. Due to their efforts, there has been

research is available here. The Botanical Museum here is

a successful introduction of the eucalyptus, poplars,

a major tourist attraction.

tropical pines, acacias and leucaena leucocephala, and

Earlier known as the Imperial Forest Research Institute, the Forest Research Institute was established in 1906 146

seed technology of over 80 important forest tree seeds, as well as management of bamboos.

F O R E S T S

The Institute also offers three courses: M.Sc. Degree courses, two Post-Graduate Diploma Courses and a Ph.D. Degree in Forestry. Some of the research perspectives of the Institute include focus on social forestry, production and certification of quality seed/planting materials relating to important tree species of its zone of reference, ecorehabilitation of the central Himalayas of U.P., utilisation of wood and development of non-wood forest products, afforestation techniques for tree sites and wastelands, and introduction of high yielding species like paulownia, poplars and other species of economic importance.

147

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F O R E S T S

Chir forest at Sat Tal 149

Dhanaulti hill station amidst dense Deodar forests

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F O R E S T S

Dhanaulti Displaying its natural splendour all through the year, Dhanaulti is a captivating tourist destination. Situated on the Mussoorie-Chamba road at an elevation of 2,286 metres above sea level, the snow-capped Himalayan peaks can be viewed clearly from here. Besides being a well known excursion site of Mussoorie, Chamba and Kanatal, Dhanaulti is also famous for its trekking routes leading to the sacred places like the holy Devi Darshan triangle, Surkhanda Devi, Chandrabadni and Kunjapuri. The pathway to the Surkhanda Devi shrine is rugged and offers a good view of the mighty Himalayas. Dhanaulti is an eight-hour drive away from Delhi and lies within the proximity of other tourist destinations like Mussoorie, Tehri and Chamba. Chamba is situated 28 kilometres from Dhanaulti and lies at an elevation of around 1,676 metres above sea level, where the Bhagirathi valley and the Himalayan peaks can be seen. New Tehri is situated 54 kilometres from Dhanaulti and is the only planned city in Uttarakhand. The main attraction here is the Tehri Dam. Mussoorie, the Queen of Hill Stations, is located in the Garhwal Hills and is 30 kilometres from Dhanaulti. Situated at an elevation of 2,000 metres above sea level, it is the most-visited hill station in the country. Dhanaulti is an ideal getaway for those wanting to submerge themselves in silence amongst the thick deodar forests. The forests of deodar, rhododendron and oak add to the beauty of the place, which is surrounded by towering mountains, tall trees and green valleys. This sleepy hamlet is a pleasant weekend destination for many. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant at Dehradun and the nearest railhead is Dehradun.

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Rhododendron Arboreum, the state tree at Kausani

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W I L D L I F E

Wildlife 153

he Himalayan state of Uttarakhand is known for

The national parks and sanctuaries include the

its wildlife population and encompasses a large

Rajaji National Park, Corbett National Park, Nanda Devi

forest cover of over 65% of the total land area. It

National Park, Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and Kedarnath

is the natural habitat of several tropical animals that make the rich evergreen forests and snow-clad mountains their home. The wildlife here is the natural wealth of the state and is looked upon with utmost pride.

Musk Deer Sanctuary. The Corbett National Park, which is the oldest National Park in Asia and India’s first Tiger Reserve, is in the state of Uttarakhand. It is named after the famous naturalist and

From the Shivalik ranges to the foothills and the plains

legendary hunter Jim Corbett, best known for his book,

in the Garhwal and Kumaon regions, the exotic flora and

‘The Man-Eaters of Kumaon’. He played an important role

fauna reside in the pristine beauty of this magnificent

in the establishment and creation of this park.

ecosystem, comprising over 23 species of mammals and 315 species of avifauna. Visiting India’s first-ever National Park and spotting snow leopards, elephants and tigers, the Himalayan bio-reserve takes one on a wild safari leaving the traveller spellbound. This state is a haven for birdwatchers and it is advised never to go to Uttarakhand without a good bird book. With a variety of wildlife and other species, sanctuaries, national parks and conservation reserves are set up to protect the endangered species in this region. The Tiger, the national animal of the country, is the pride of this state and symbolizes India’s wildlife wealth. Rich in wildlife

One discovers the ultimate flower power while walking through the lush meadows of the Valley of Flowers. With a variety of all the different species of flowers that one can imagine, the Bedni and Kali Gangas in the Chamoli districts appear to be as divine and glorious as the heavens. The wild encounters are accompanied by the adventurous activities of bird-watching, fishing, safaris and treks. The forest rest houses here are ideal retreat centres where people come to experience rustic simplicity at its best. The smell of the damp earth and the feel of the early morning fresh air leave one with unforgettable memories.

resources, the utmost care has to be taken to protect and preserve the species that survive here. Wildlife tourism is a major attraction for tourists and pilgrims visiting the state. The wildlife preservation centres, along with protecting these species, encourage eco-tourism with a view to spread the message of conservation and protection of the environment and its species. The government is taking initiatives to protect and preserve the wildlife along with improving it by implementing wildlife projects like Save the White Tiger and Protect the Red Panda. Strict measures are undertaken to curb hunting.

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Elephants at Corbett

W I L D L I F E

Snow Leopard

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Playful Elephants

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W I L D L I F E

Corbett National Park Named after the famous British conservationist, Jim Corbett, the Jim Corbett National Park is regarded as India’s finest national park. Located in the Nainital, Pauri Garhwal and Bijnore Districts of Uttarakhand, the diversity of the Corbett National Park in terms of its climate and habitat, has attracted over 580 species of birds, 25 reptile species and 50 mammals. These include the Indian elephant, tiger, leopard, jungle cat, fishing cat (rare), caracal sloth bear, wild boar, langur and rhesus monkey, jackal, ghoral (mountain goat), cheetal, sambar, pada (hog deer), muntjac (barking deer); reptiles like mugger, gharial, Indian rock python, cobra and king cobra, Russell’s viper, and birds like wagtail, kingfisher, parakeet, flycatcher, jungle babbler, cuckoo, bulbul, Indian and great pied hornbill, mimivet, kalej and chir pheasant, eagle, Palla’s fish eagle, cinereous vulture, white-tailed rubythroat, heron, egret, shrike, cuckoo, drongo, barbet brown fish owl, black bulbul, woodpeckers and parakeets. Fish such as mahseer, kalimuchi, kalabasu, chilwa and goons are also found aplenty in the waters that traverse this area.

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Corbett National Park is the oldest National Park

There are 110 tree species found here. The forests are

of India and was one of the nine Tiger Reserves where

mostly deciduous and the main trees found here are the

Project Tiger was launched in the year 1973. The Corbett

sal, chir pine, shisham and khair trees, intermixed with

Tiger Reserve holds the second largest population of free

grasslands also known as Chaurs.

living tigers in the world. The area of the entire reserve is 1,318.54 square kilometres and is famous for its wild

The Ramganga River flows east to west of the reserve

population of tigers, leopards and elephants. The Park lies

and a range of hills passes through its centre. The park

in the valley of Ramganga River and its tributaries, in the

encompasses the Kalgarh Dam where a large reservoir is

Terai forests hugging the foothills of the Himalayas in

created by the Ramganga. This attracts many species of

lower Uttarakhand.

migratory birds, making Corbett a bird-watcherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise.

W I L D L I F E

The ideal season for bird-watching is from mid-December

Kothri rivers, rich with mahseer. The main attraction

to the end of March.

of this park is the tiger, though there are very few at

The Park experiences three seasons, which are winter from November to February, summer from March to June and the monsoons for the rest of the year. Elephant rides are organised at the Corbett National Park and sitting on

present. The best time for tiger-spotting is from April to mid-June. Walking may not be allowed within the Park, but the forests around the Tiger Reserve serve as gentle trek routes.

an elephantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back and observing Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magnificent carnivores makes one feel much closer to the forest. Fishing is permitted in the Ramganga, Kosi, Mandal and

A Tiger in Corbett

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Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary In the district of Nainital lies the Sonanadi Wildlife

bakli, tun, sain, haladu, kusum, rohini, aonla, jamun,

Sanctuary in the north-western direction of the Ramganga

kanthber, figs and bamboo. Some endangered species

reservoir. The sanctuary is named after the Sonanadi

of herbs and shrubs, as well as medicinal herbs are also

River, an important tributary of the Ramganga. Located at

found here. The Sanctuary has a tropical climate and cold,

the edge of the Corbett Tiger Reserve, it shares a common

frosty winters. Summers are usually hot and dry.

border with the Corbett National Park and covers an area of 301.18 square kilometres amidst the Northern Indian tropical forests. The main purpose of its creation is to serve as a corridor for the migration of animals between the Corbett National Park in the East and the Rajaji National Park in the West.

The bird species found here are thrushes, warblers, pheasants, flycatchers, hornbills, wall creeper, changeable hawk eagle, emerald dove, Himalayan pied kingfisher, Himalayan bearded vulture, shaheen falcon, brown and tawny fish owls. Almost 6% of the total bird species in the world can be found in this Sanctuary. The main forests

Set across the Northern Indian tropical forests, the

found here are the dry Shivalik sal forests, dry mixed

Sanctuary has a large variety of flora and fauna. The tree

deciduous forests, riverine khair-sissoo forests and dry

species found abundantly here are sal, sheesham, semal,

bamboo brakes.

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The animals found here are elephants, tigers, leopards, sambhar, cheetal, barking deer, wild boar, goral, otter, porcupine, yellow-throated marten and sloth bear. The reptiles that roam around here are pythons, monitor lizards, king cobras, turtles and Gangetic gharials. The Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary and the Corbett National Park comprise the Corbett Tiger Reserve, which has the second largest population of tiger (Panthera tigris) in the world. The best months to visit the Sanctuary are from November to April.

White capped Redstart

Great Cormorant perched on a twig

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Black crowned Jay

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary What was once the summer capital of the Chand Rajas

as Kedarnath Peak, Shivling, Trishul and Nanda Devi.

of Kumaon is now the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary in the

It has a variety of f lora, and oak and rhododendron

Almora region of Kumaon. It was founded in 1988 for

are the dominant forests here. The major wildlife

the conservation and protection of the broad leaf oak

attractions here are the leopards, Indian red fox,

(Quercus) forests of the Central Himalayan region and

jackals, ghorals, porcupines and pine martens. Many

covers an area of 47.04 square kilometres, in the verdant

species of wild f lowers can be found here.

tracts of Ayarpani, 35 kilometres from Almora.

The fauna here include leopards, nemorhaedus

The Sanctuary is popular for mountain viewing and

gorals, chitals, serows, jungle cats, black bears, pine

offers a view of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks such

martens, foxes, porcupines and barking deer. The

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Sanctuar y is an avian paradise and is home to around

grasses. At a higher altitude, the Sanctuar y is spread

200 species of birds like the forktail, nuthatches,

with oak and rhododendron forests.

blackbirds, parakeets, laughing thrush, magpies, kalij pheasant, monval, koklas and woodpeckers.

Major tourist attractions near the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuar y are the Bineshwar Temple, Kasar Devi

The ecosystem of Binsar Wildlife Sanctuar y faces a

Temple, Golu Devta Temple and Almora. The months

wide range of altitude variation. The f lora found here

of Februar y to April and October to November are

is known for its wide variety, ranging from 25 types

favourable for visiting. Journey time by road is 4-Â˝

of trees and 24 types of bushes to seven varieties of

hours from Nainital, 10-Â˝ hours from Delhi.

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Rajaji National Park Established in 1983, the Rajaji National Park is named

with elephants, leopards, jungle cats, Himalayan yellow

after the freedom fighter Sri C. Rajagopalachari, who was

throated martens, sambhars, cheetals, barking deer, wild

also known as Rajaji. The Park encompasses the Dehradun

boars, sloth bears, langurs, ghorals, monitor lizards,

Shivaliks, Motichur and Chilla Sanctuaries and is set

pythons, civets and king cobras. A part of the Haridwar

across the foothills of Shivalik ranges in the Himalayas

Range Reserve Forests shares a common border with

at the beginning of the vast Indo-Gangetic plains. It is

the southern and south-eastern boundaries, giving the

spread over an area of 820.42 square kilometres across

animals some extra space. Plans have been devised to

the districts of Dehradun, Haridwar and Pauri Garhwal.

attach the Haridwar Forests to Rajaji National Park.

Rajaji is spread on both banks of the River Ganga in the western Terai forests of lower Uttarakhand, in the Shivalik Hills.

A wide variety of fish like the mahseer, kalabanse, goonch, chilwa and trout can be seen in the emerald blue waters of the Ganges and Son. To explore the rich flora and

Rajaji National Park is one of North Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main

fauna of this region, an elephant ride is most endearing

wildlife reserves and is the north-western limit of Asian

for nature-lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. There are 23

elephants. The Park exhibits the Shivalik ecosystem

species of mammals and 315 bird species in this Park.

W I L D L I F E

A jeep safari accompanied by a guide may be a good way of taking a proper glimpse of the Park, but the most exciting of all is the elephant ride. Elephant rides are conducted in the morning and evening, taking one across the sal, riverine, broad-leaved mixed forests, scrublands and grasslands. Traces of the elephant can be seen everywhere as the footprints and dung make their presence quite evident. There is abundant birdlife here that can be seen

kingfishers, parakeets, warblers, barbets, chestnutheaded bee eaters and Indian rollers. There are nine Forest Rest Houses inside the Park and a few of them are a century old. These houses are attractive, reasonable and most convenient for a wildlife enthusiast. With trees spread over like confetti, one has to make oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way across the jungle and be ready for a breathtaking wildlife encounter. The best time to visit the Park is from mid-November to mid-June.

extensively during the monsoons, and winter calls for the arrival of the migrant birds. The Park has a variety of birds and has much to offer bird-watchers as well. The birds that can be spotted here are pea fowls, jungle fowls, kalij pheasants, hornbills, woodpeckers, thrushes,

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Steppe Eagle

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Govind National Park The Govind National Park in the Purola Tehsil of

most difficult trek is the 60-kilometre Naitwar – Himri –

Uttarkashi district in Uttarakhand is home to a number

Droni – Rupin Pass – Sangla route which partially lies in

of endangered species and was established on 1st March,

Himachal Pradesh. The months from April to June and

1955 with a view to protecting these species. Also known

September to November are suitable for visiting.

as Govind Pashu Vihar, the Park is spread over an area of 957.969 square kilometres, with a varying altitude of 1,300 metres to 6,323 metres. Naitwar is the entrance and starting point of the Park. The Park experiences heavy snowfall and the vegetation here is enriched by the River Tons, which is an important tributary of the Yamuna.

The Sanctuary is surrounded by temperate and mixed coniferous forests, along with temperate moist and mixed deciduous forests and pastures. Forests such as fir and spruce, sub alpine birch-fir and birch-rhododendronjuniper, alder and populus forests are also found here. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant at Dehradun and the nearest railway head is Dehradun. The entry gate at

The Govind Wildlife Sanctuary has around 15 species of

Naitwar can be approached from Dehradun, Purola, Tiuini,

mammals and 150 species of birds, and is rich in medicinal

Vikasnagar, Uttarkashi and Shimla. Taluka is the last

plants. The animals found here are the Himalayan snow

motor head, which is 24 kilometres from the entry gate

leopard, Himalayan black bear, brown bear, musk deer,

at Naitwar. The trek begins at Taluka, from where it is 14

bharal, Himalayan tahr, serow and the common leopard.

kilometres to Osla, the entry point of the Sanctuary.

The monal pheasant, koklas pheasant, bearded vulture, Himalayan snow cock, golden eagle, western tragopan, steppe eagle and black eagle are some of the endangered feathered inhabitants of this area. This Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the sites registered for the protection of the snow leopard and its habitat, which survives in the inner Himalayas above the altitude of 3,500 metres. This endangered species was responsible for the formation of this Park. To protect this animal, the Govind Wildlife Sanctuary was also notified as a national park and the upper reaches of the Sanctuary cover an area of 472 square kilometres. This area also protects rare and endangered birds like monal pheasant, koklas pheasant, black eagle and the bearded vulture. There are four basic trek routes in this Park. The easiest one is the Sankri – Taluka – Osla – Har ki Dun route which ends at Ruinsara Tal covering 40 kilometres. Next is the 20-kilometre, high altitude Ruinsara Tal to Yamunotri trek route to the Block Peak and Banderpanch areas. The

Hog Deer

167

Nanda Devi National Park Surrounded by peaks and mountains, the Nanda

is an ideal habitat for species like black panthers, deer,

Devi National Park is a world heritage site and is one

wild boars, snow leopards, Himalayan bears, as well as

of the well-known national parks in India. Established

the reptiles and birds of the forest. A total of 773 plants

in 1980, the Park was made into a wildlife reserve in

have been found in this biosphere reserve and around

1982. It is located in the Chamoli region of the Garhwal

620 species were recorded in 1993 by the Nanda Devi

Himalayas and is spread across an area of 630 square

Scientific and Ecological Expedition.

kilometres. Perched at an altitude ranging between 2,400 and 6,817 metres, the forest is rich in flora and

The months of April and October are most suitable for

fauna. The vegetation in the Nanda Devi National Park

enjoying the scenic beauty of the forest and its wildlife.

consists mostly of semi-tropical and deciduous trees, and

The Park is watered by the Dhauli Ganga and Rishi Ganga

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W I L D L I F E

rivers in the Great Himalayan mountain range. The second highest peak in the country, Nanda Devi which stands 7,630 metres tall, falls within the boundaries of this Park along with other important peaks. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 and has been revered for thousands of years as a manifestation of Lord Shivaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wife, Parvati. Lata is the entry point that is two kilometres from the road head; 318 kilometres to the north of Haridwar and 517 kilometres north-east of Delhi. It is a nine-hour drive from Haridwar and 14-15 hours drive from Delhi to the roadhead for Lata. Variegated Laughingthrush

Himalayan Black Bear

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The Valley of Flowers National Park The Valley of Flowers National Park is a glacial corridor

corridor of Bhyundar Valley in Chamoli Garhwal in 1931.

known for its meadows of endemic alpine flowers and

He was one of the six British mountaineers who climbed

natural beauty. It was declared a national park in 1982

the Kamet peak. An account of his experiences when he

and is recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

first discovered this beautiful valley has been documented

Surrounded by snow-capped mountains in the district of

in his book titled â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Valley of Flowersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. He recorded

Chamoli Garhwal, the valley has more than 500 species of flowers and is a protected site.

around 262 species of flowers in 1937 with a few other species added later. Flowers such as anemones, geraniums,

British explorer, botanist and mountaineer Frank

marsh marigolds, primulas, asters, inulas, Brahma kamal,

Smyth stumbled across the 8-kilometre long glacier

pedicularis, thermopsis, trollius, strawberr y, epilobium

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Daisies at Badrinath

and rhododendrons are found here. Most of the

bullfinch, fire-fronted serin, speckled wood pigeon,

f lowers that grow here have a medicinal value. The

stripe-throated yuhina, pink-browed rose finch and

f loral composition of the valley keeps shifting and the

the monal pheasant.

valley blooms for three months, with its pristine glow. The fading begins in September and then the Valley

The high altitude Himalayan valley has now become

goes into hibernation for the next five months during

a part of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve. The flowers

the snowy winters.

found here are mostly orchids, poppies, primulas,

The bird life here is quite lively and one is likely to see the fire-capped tit, black-throated tit, red-headed

calendulas and daisies. The alpine forests include birch and rhododendron, spread across a certain area. 171

Blue Poppy

A variety of butterflies can be seen fluttering across

The nearest town from the Park is Karnaprayag at a

the valley and animals like the blue sheep, tahr, Himalayan

distance of 33 kilometres. The railhead is 290 kilometres

bear, Himalayan mouse hare, red fox, common langur

at Rishikesh. The nearest airport is at Dehradun, which is

and serow can be spotted here. It is the natural habitat

330 kilometres from the Park. The Park is covered with

of endangered species like the snow leopard, Himalayan

heavy snow for most parts of the year and the best time

musk deer and bharal.

for visiting is between the months of June and October.

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Brahma Kamal

Wild Balsam at the valley of flowers 173

Gangotri National Park The Gangotri National Park in the Uttarkashi District has a rich landscape that measures 1,553 square kilometres with diverse flora and fauna. Its opulent landscape makes it a most sought-after abode for the wild beasts of this region. Established in the year 1989, the Park is known for its lush green meadows and dominant coniferous forests that complement its beauty. The moist temperature is most suitable for vegetation in this region and rhododendrons, chir pine, deodar, fir, spruce, oak and the alpine scrub are the prominent tree species here. The Gangotri National Park is located in the upper catchment of Bhagirathi River. The area is prone to landslides and is marked by deep gorges, craggy glaciers and high ridges. The animals found in this area are the snow leopard, black bear, brown bear, musk deer, blue sheep or bharal, Himalayan tahr, ibex, Blue Throated Barbet

thar, tiger and serow. The birds include pheasants, Himalayan monal, koklas, partridges, doves, pigeons, Himalayan snowcock, Himalayan barbet, parakeets and bulbuls. Almost 150 species of birds and 15 species of mammals are found here. The other engaging activities here are jeep safari, trekking,

mountaineering,

hiking,

river

rafting,

paragliding and skiing. The forests of the Gangotri National Park are mostly typical Himalayan moist temperate type forests and chir pine, deodar, fir, spruce and oak are also found here. The alpine scrub is the special feature of this National Park. The nearest airport is at Dehradun which is 330 kilometres from the Park, and it is also the nearest railway station. The best time to visit the Park is between April and October.

Black Partridge

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Binog Wildlife Sanctuary The Binog Wildlife Sanctuary was established in

enthusiasts, and it is a delightful place for bird-watchers.

1983 in the Binog forest and covers an area of 3.4 square

The almost extinct Himalayan animals and birds like

kilometres at the height of 2,500 metres. It is surrounded

the mountain quail and red-billed blue magpie can be

by the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas in the midst of

spotted here, apart from the common leopards and deer.

thick jungles and lies close to Mussoorie. The Sanctuary is

The Himalayan quail was last sighted in 1876. While

surrounded by pine trees, oak and flowering shrubs. Apart from the common animals like leopards and deer, several herbivores, carnivores, primates, reptiles and a variety of avifauna are found here. The area forms the catchments of the Aglar River, a tributary of the Yamuna River, and the

most believe that this species has long been extinct, it has been a challenge for avid bird-watchers to spot it again. The Sanctuary has unique plant communities and is rich in medicinal herbs.

famous Kempty Falls. With its rich flora and fauna, it is

Jolly Grant Airport is the nearest airport and

a paradise for nature-lovers offering panoramic views of

the nearest railway station is Dehradun. It is well

snow peaks like Chaukhamba and Bandarpunch.

connected by road with Mussoorie and Dehradun.

Passing through the thick woods in solitude is an extremely soothing exercise for nature and wildlife

The entr y point in Binog Block is from Dhobhi Ghat, which is on the Mussoorie-Kempty road.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher

175

Askot Wildlife Sanctuary Askot Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the Askot Musk Deer Sanctuary, lies in the middle of the snowcovered peaks in the Kumaon region in the Pithoragarh district, at the height of 1,650 metres. It is located in the pastoral surroundings of the Indo-Nepal border. This Sanctuary has been set up primarily with the objective of conserving the musk deer (Moschus moschiferus) and its habitat. The name Askot, which translates to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eighty fortsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, is a small Himalayan town located on the River Gori GangaKali. It has a natural setting of trees like quercus, pinus and rhododendron. The temperate deciduous forest dominates the area, followed by alpine scrub and sub-tropical forests, and it covers an area of over 284 square kilometres. The animals found in this Sanctuar y are the jungle cat, leopard, serow, barking deer, civet cat, ghoral, spotted deer, kakar, tahr, musk spotted deer, chukoras and brown bear. The significant bird species here reside in the majestic hilly areas, surrounded by greener y in the enchanting canopy of the evergreen forests. According to the study of the fauna and flora of this landscape, done in the protected area of Askot Wildlife Sanctuary in the west Himalayas from 1992 to 1995, the forest and pasture is nearly 52% and 12% of the total land area. Threatened species include the Himalayan musk deer (Moschus chrysogaster), tahr (Himitragus jemlahicus), snow leopard (Panthera uncia), koklas (Pucrassia macrolophas), monal (Lophophorus impejanus) and snowcock (Tetragalus tibetanus). There are 1,262 species of vascular plants (Angiosperm 1,112, Gymnosperm 7, Pteridophytes 143) found here. The Sanctuary is an important area of conservation and the study has proven to be fruitful for the categorization of the forest and avifaunal composition of the area.

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Musk Deer

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Monal pheasant, the state bird

Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary The Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary is situated in the

this Sanctuary, surrounded by the snow-clad peaks of

Rudraprayag and Chamoli districts in Garhwal and was

the Himalayan mountain range. The natural environment

founded in 1972. It covers a total area of 967 square

includes forests, valleys, grasslands, glaciers, rivers and

kilometres of the Garhwal Himalayas. It was set up to

some of the highest peaks in the country.

protect the forests of the Panch Kedar belt, surrounded by high Himalayan peaks including Chaukhamba (6,974 metres) in north central Uttarakhand, straddling 957 square kilometres from Chopta in the south to the Kedarnath shrine in the north, from Maikhanda in the west to Helang in the east.

The Chopta to Bisudi trek within the Sanctuary is a 20-kilometre, one-way trek which leads to a lake in the deep forest hills. The Bisudi Tal to Kala Pahar route is a six-kilometre trek route that takes one deeper into the Sanctuary. Other trek routes are to the temple of Madhyamaheshwar and to the Rudranath and

The Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the most reputed and richest of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bio-reserves. It is spread across the north Rudraprayag district and part

Kalpeshwar shrines. The most difficult trek here is the Nandi Kund trek.

of Chamoli with temperate forests in the middle altitude

The snow leopard, leopard, tahr and serow are the

areas. The forest belt is surrounded by mountain peaks,

animals found in this sanctuary and it is also the home of

lakes, rivers and waterfalls. Important pilgrimage sites

the state animal of Uttarakhand - the Musk Deer. There

like Kedarnath, Madhyamaheshwar, Tungnath, Rudranath,

are 225 species of feathered inhabitants here, which

Triyuginarayan and Kalpeshwar lie on the outskirts of

include the khaleej and monal pheasants.

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Jhilmil Conservation Reserve The Jhilmil Taal in Haridwar is situated on the right

for the establishment of a conservation reserve, which

bank of the River Ganges in Chidiyapur forest range. The

would help increase and save the number of swamp deer

saucer-shaped wetland has rich and diverse flora and

in particular and protect the Terai habitat as a whole.

fauna, and animals such as the deer, elephant, nilgai and tiger can be spotted here with the resident and winter migratory birds.

Birds like egrets, herons, lapwings and waterfowls can be spotted here, along with several migratory birds; a major attraction for bird-watching enthusiasts.

The swamp deer (Cervus duvaucelli), which is listed as an endangered species on the IUCN list, can be found

This area has a watch tower where swamp deer,

here. The dwindling population of the endangered swamp

stag, doe and fawns can be spotted in the open patch of

deer due to the degradation of its habitat has called

grassland along a water channel.

A herd of Spotted Deer

179

Assan Conservation Reserve Assan Barrage Bird Sanctuary, also known as

(Anas acuta), red-crested pochard (Netta rufina),

Dhalipur Lake, is situated 40 kilometres from Dehradun

ruddy shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea), common pochard

on the Dehradun-Paonta road, where avid bird-watchers

(Aythya ferina), mallard (Anas platyrhynchos), coot

f lock for bird-watching safaris. The Reserve is located

(Fulica atra), Eurasian wigeon (Anas Penelope), gadwall

at the convergence point of the rivers Yamuna and

(Anas strepera), common teal (Anas crecca), shoveller

Assan through Dhalipur Power House.

(Anas smithii), egret (Ardea alba), heron (Ardea

Set up in the year 1967, this Barrage is the habitat of nearly 53 species of water birds. This Reserve is also

herodias), tufted duck (Aythya fuligula) and lapwing (Vanellus vanellus).

the temporary home of nineteen winter migrant bird

While walking down the canal, one can also see the

species from Eurasia. These species consist of pintail

swallows building their nests near the reservoir area.

180

W I L D L I F E

Lesser White Fronted Goose

The four square kilometres of the lush green area has

mid-March to almost end of April. Assan Barrage

a calm water body 287.5 metres long, attracting a

serves as a winter passage halt for trans-Himalayan

range of local as well as migrator y birds. The thick

migrator y birds. The birds are spotted on their way to

foliage here ensures that the birds are not disturbed

South India in the months of October to November and

by bird-watching enthusiasts. Many of these species are extremely endangered and are listed in the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red Data book. The bird-watching seasons in Assan Barrage Bird Sanctuar y are from October to December and from

on their return in the months of Februar y to March. The arrival of migrants from the Palearctic region begins by the end of October. The first to arrive at Assan is the shoveller followed by the ruddy shelduck, mallard, coot, cormorant, egret, wagtail and pond heron, to name a few. 181

Nainital Zoo Established in 1984, the Bharat Ratna Pt. Govind

The birds found here are the golden pheasant, silver

Ballabh Pant High Altitude Zoo, Nainital is situated in

pheasant, jungle fowl, Bornean fireback pheasant,

the Sher ka Danda and is the only zoo in the state of

Indian peafowl, Steppe eagle, brown-eared pheasant,

Uttarakhand. Managed by the Bharat Ratna Pt. Govind

kalij pheasant, lineated kalij pheasant, Lady Amherstâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Ballabh Pant High Altitude Zoo Management Society

pheasant, and Reeves pheasant. A mountain quail was

Nainital, the Zoo was first opened to the public on 1st

last seen in this area in 1876.

June 1995. Situated at an elevation of 2,100 metres above sea level, this Zoo is a favourite destination of tourists, students and children.

182

The mammals found here are the Siberian tiger, snow leopard, Japanese macaque, Himalayan black

W I L D L I F E

bear, ghoral, Himalayan martin, bonnet macaque,

animals. Various outreach programmes are organized to

Tibetan wolf, serow, barking deer, sambar, leopard and

create awareness about wildlife conservation especially

the Himalayan palm civet.

on World Environment Day, Ozone Layer Conservation

The Zoo is completely polythene free and the main aim here is to conserve and protect the f lora and fauna of the hills. Efforts are being made to rescue

Day and Wildlife Week, to help students and visitors be a little more concerned about the environment, forests and wildlife conservation issues.

and rehabilitate injured and endangered species, and prevent and cure major and minor diseases among

A Leopard resting at Nainital Zoo

183

Forest Rest Houses

Museums

There are more than 200 Forest Rest Houses (FRHs)

The museums of Uttarakhand display the historical facts

offered by the Forest Department of Uttarakhand. They

and the glorious past of our country, and are classified

are heritage buildings located in the natural surroundings

into various categories that best represent the state. Group

where one can experience Nature walks, trekking, wildlife

Museum and Archives, Roorkee is a well-known museum

sighting, bird-watching, Nature photography and also

in Uttarakhand. Located at the Bengal Engineer Group and

learn about the local culture.

Centre, it was established in 1978. The museum showcases

Nature trails are organized by trained guides familiar

historical

documents,

books,

pamphlets,

paintings,

with local flora and fauna, and the safety and hospitality

photographs of the Bengal Engineer Group and also

of the forests is also looked after.

displays several medals, portraits and weapons.

In the Garhwal region, well-known Forest Rest Houses

At the Kumaon Regimental Centre in Ranikhet is the

include the Lachiwala FRH, the Chakrata FRH, the Kanaser

premiere War Museum in Uttarakhand. Set up in 1978, the

FRH, the Harsil FRH, the Agora FRH and the Dodital

museum displays various types of army materials like war

FRH. The Kumaon region is home to the Loharkhet FRH,

trophies, flags, uniforms, manuscripts, paintings, rifles,

Munsiyari FRH and Sitabani FRH.

important historical documents and weapons.

Rathuadhab FRH

184

W I L D L I F E

One of the most reputed museums in Uttarakhand is

painting known as Aspen, and Kumaoni antiquities. An

the Zonal Museum on Haridwar Road in Dehradun. It was

assortment of sculptures, terracotta, coins, bronzes,

established by the Anthropological Survey of India in

musical instruments, ivory copper plates, beads and

1971. This museum preserves the Physical and Cultural

manuscripts can also be found here. The museum is

Anthropology of North-Western India and the Central and

of archaeological, historic and cultural significance as

Western Himalayas as well.

it houses precious articles belong to the Katyuri and

The house where hunter-turned-conservationist Jim

Chand dynasties.

Corbett lived during the winters in Chhoti Haldwani is

To preserve the elements used by the Garhwal

now the Corbett Museum on the outskirts of Kaladhungi.

Regiment, the Garhwali Museum was set up in 1987 at

The pathway to this museum welcomes one with a line of

the Garhwal Rifles Regimental Center in Lansdowne.

lychee and mango orchards. The tourist is then greeted

Masterjiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Museum in Nanasen Village in Kumaon is

with a bust of Jim Corbett and a large map of the museum.

an enterprise by Dr. S.S. Pangthi, affectionately known

The museum displays the life history of Jim Corbett as

as Masterji. A retired school-teacher, trekker, traveller,

well as his belongings, including his guns, hunting hats

author and empowered with authority over the Bhotias

and personal photographs.

of the area, Masterji has enterprisingly put together a

Established in 1980, the Govind Ballabh Pant

small collection of antiques in a private museum at his

Government Museum in Almora has an interesting

residence. The museum preserves the original documents

collection of art and crafts, textiles, miniature paintings

that enabled trade between the Johal Valley and Tibet.

and wood works, with a collection of a folk style of

The museum is 2 kilometres from the Wayfarer Retreat.

Corbett Museum

185

Wildlife Institute Of India Established in 1982, Wildlife Institute of India (WII) is an internationally acclaimed institution, offering training programs for wildlife managers and wildlife researchers, academic courses and advisory services in wildlife research and management. Based in Dehradun at Chandrabani, close to the southern forests of Dehradun, the Institute pursues research related to biodiversity issues all across the country. Its mission is to nurture wildlife

WII research projects are carried out across the length and breadth of the country in various field sites that serve as primary sources of scientific information, to aid conservation along with keeping the organization abreast of current field situations and the latest technology. Some of the latest completed research projects at WII include pressure and dependency by local people on the resources of Rajaji National Park, the investigation of biogeographic patterns of relevance to planning

science and promote its application in conservation.

long-term wildlife conservation strategies in India, the

Trained personnel from WII have contributed in studying

vegetation of western Rajaji National Park, Floristic and

and protecting wildlife in India, besides popularizing

Community Analysis and the ecology of the Indian flying

interest in wildlife studies and careers.

fox (Pteropus giganteus) around Dehradun.

186

W I L D L I F E

Green-backed Tit

187

Index Alaknanda Askot Wildlife Sanctuary Assan Barrage Assan Conservation Reserve Auli Ski Resort Baijnath Barsu Bhagirathi Bhagirathi Peak Bhimtal Binog Wildlife Sanctuary Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary Botanical Garden Chandi Devi Temple Char Dham Chaukhamba Corbett Falls Corbett National Park Dayara Bugyal Deodar Devaria Tal Dhanaulti Fairs & Festivals Fir Forest Rest Houses Ganga Gangotri National Park Gaumukh Govind National Park Haridwar Hemkund Lokpal Lake Jageshwar Jhanda Mela Jhilmil Conservation Reserve Kali Kandali Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary Kempty Falls Khalia Top Koti Kanasar Lakhamandal Mana Mansa Devi Temple Museums Music & Dance Naini Lake Nainital Zoo Nanak Sagar Nanakmatta Nanda Devi East Nanda Devi Mela Nanda Devi National Park Naukuchiya Tal Neelkanth Peak Om Parvat Paintings Panchprayag Panchachuli Pindari Glacier Pine Rajaji National Park 188

100 176 128 180 42 70 50 101 32 121 175 162 144 65 57 29 141 157 39 138 124 151 83 137 184 95 174 35 167 63 127 66 83 179 107 85 178 143 40 51 67 52 65 184 79 117 182 127 71 23 86 168 122 38 41 76 109 26 36 139 164

Ramganga Rishikesh Sahastra Tal Sat Tal Shivling Shri Hemkund Sahib Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary Swargarohini Tehri The Ashoka Relic The Forest Research Institute (FRI) The Nainital Mountaineering Club The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) The Valley of Flowers National Park The Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology Tons Tribals Trishul Vasuki Tal Wildlife Institute of India Yamuna

103 60 127 123 30 72 160 31 131 73 146 49 47 170 48 105 75 28 132 186 99

Photo Credits Satpal Gandhi: Cover (Devotee and Rafting), Page 4-5 (Hemkund Sahib Lake & Shrine Panorama), 10-11, 14, 43, 51, 64, 67, 73, 74, 78 (Chholia Dance), 81, 83, 94, 95, 96-97, 100-101, 102, 108, 110-111, 112, 124-125, 126-127, 128-129, 133 (Deodar Tree), 146-147, 147, 150-151, 160, 161, 162, 169 (Variegated Laughingthrush), 174 (Blue Throated Barbet), 180-181, 184, 186 Anup Sah: Cover, Page 3, 12, 13, 16-17, 18, 19 (Nanda Devi Peak), 2021, 22, 23, 24-25, 26-27, 28, 29, 30, 32-33, 34-35, 36-37, 38, 41, 44, 45, 49, 53 (House at Urgam Valley), 54-55, 57, 68-69, 71, 75, 76 (Jyounti Patta), 84-85, 86-87, 91 (River Saraswati), 106-107, 113 (Sailing at Naini Lake), 116-117, 118-119, 120, 121, 123, 130-131, 132, 137, 138, 139, 148-149, 152, 154, 155, 156-157, 157, 158-159, 163, 164-165, 166, 167, 168, 173 (Brahma Kamal), 175, 178, 179, 182-183, 187 Bhumesh Bharti: Page 15, 42, 48, 56, 59 (Yamunotri), 70, 76 (Aipan), 77, 78 (Jhora Dance), 79, 82, 90, 92-93,104-105, 109, 134-135, 136, 142, 144-145, 170-171, 172, 173 (Wild Balsam at the Valley of Flowers) Deepak Chaturvedi: Page 88-89, 174 (Black Partridge) Ahad Tanveer: Page 140-141 Samir Sinha: Page 176-177 Dinodia Photo Library: Page 31, 39, 66, 72, 80, 98-99, 103, 114-115, 122, 153 (Tiger) NIM: Page 1, 46-47 Ankit Shastri: Page 143, 169 (Himalayan Black Bear) George John Advertising: Page 9, 52, 59 (Badrinath), 60, 61, 62, 63, 65 Ravi Rawat: Page 50 H. Satish: Page 40 Rajesh Panwar: Page 185 Manoj Rangarh: Page 58

Text Credit Abhinav Madhwal: Assan Lake, Ashoka Relic and Jhanda Fair