LOCAL HISTORY The Plight of the Big House

from Ulster Tatler February 2021

STAYCATION ESCAPES Where to go this winter

THE PLIGHT OF THE BIG HOUSE IN NORTHERN IRELAND

Published by Ulster Architectural Heritage and written by J.A.K Dean this recently published book documents the plight of the ‘big house’ in N.I.

Roxborough Castle view from north-west approach Image Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland.

Anthony Clare

Ulster Architectural Heritage has a longstanding and enviable reputation for publishing distinguished books on Ulster’s architectural history. This latest publication looks at that evocative and endangered species - the ‘Big House’. The author was driven to write the book because of his abiding fascination for the enduringly picturesque image of the big house and its setting, tempered with a melancholy concern about grievous losses. A second motivation, to quote Dean, “in true Ulster tradition is born of a grievance”. In 1974 a book on the loss of grand houses in England, Scotland and Wales, The Destruction of the Country House, was published to accompany an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum - Northern Ireland was not included. Then, to compound the perceived slight, The Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland was published in 1988 and again the big houses of Northern Ireland were omitted. This book sets out to fill the gap. In addition, it extends the term big house, which usually refers to country houses of the landed aristocracy and gentry, to include the grander Anglican rectories and suburban villas of the aspiring merchant class, thereby broadening its appeal and reference value.

With 179 entries and over 200 illustrations, the book features buildings from all the six counties of Northern Ireland and includes many houses that are now sadly lost to us, some noteworthy survivors and those that are still at risk. The introduction sets out some of the reasons for the decline which include fire (both accidental and deliberate), terrorism, financial hardship, profligacy, changes in building fashion and urban spread, amongst others. The entries themselves are arranged alphabetically within each county with the greatest number being found in counties Antrim and Down. Each entry combines detailed research and descriptive text with references relating to an extensive bibliography for those who want to dig deeper into the history. Images have been sourced for nearly every entry.

There is plenty here to intrigue and delight,

Necarne Castle, Irvinestown c. JAK Dean.

or even over which to shed a tear. Some probably know already of Shane’s Castle, the houses that were once to be found at Ormeau and Purdysburn and, of course, Downhill. Less well known perhaps are the Strawberry Hill-inspired Lisanoure Castle at Clough Mills, the vast French Renaissance châteaustyle Roxborough Castle at Moy or the rather eccentric pile that is Dalchoolin at Cultra. Being designed by an architect of note is alas no guarantee of longevity. Works by Lanyon Lynn and Lanyon, Nash, Hopper, Playfair, Keane, Johnston and others all feature here. High profile restoration projects such as the rescue of Ormiston House in east Belfast, for example, are once again capturing the public imagination. New uses have been found for several big houses whether it be as hotels, golf clubs or restored once again as private houses. Should a lottery windfall come your way you could turn your hand to restoring one of the not yet quite lost houses Kimmitt Dean attended the Royal Belfast The intention of this book is to highlight the plight such as Cairndhu House or Kilwaughter Academical Institution and studied architecture at Belfast College of Art and Queen’ University Belfast. He has retired as an architect in public of an endangered species – popularly known as The Big House. The term usually refers to country houses of the landed aristocracy and gentry but is Castle in Antrim; Craigdarragh House or (for service and private practice and is the author of The gate lodges of Ulster (1994), The gate lodges of Leinster (2016), The gate lodges of Munster (2018) here extended to the grander Anglican rectories and suburban villas of the aspiring merchant class, set in pocket estates mainly on the edges of Belfast. the truly ambitious) Mountpanther in Down; and The gate lodges of Connaught (2019) for which the Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain awarded him the Colvin Prize. Some smaller houses have also been included because of their particular architectural merit or eccentricity. The compilation encompasses houses Farrancassidy House or Necarne Castle in His long-held fascination with the big houses of Northern Ireland and their families was inherited Carrickblacker, 1692–1945 lost or at risk in the six north-eastern counties of Ireland which since 1921 have formed the political entity of Northern Ireland. Fermanagh; Cromore House or Learmount from his maternal grandmother, an inveterate country house snooper for whom neither locked gate nor overgrown avenue was an obstacle to her The Big Houses described here are not only those lost through accidental fire, terrorism, the profligacy curiosity. of their owners or urban spread but also survivors Castle in County Derry/Londonderry or For more books published by Ulster Architectural which lie dilapidated, unloved or abandoned and under threat as a result of financial hardship, a Heritage go to: lack of imagination or developer’s ambition. Some

Favour Royal in Tyrone.www.ulsterarchitecturalheritage.org.uk are long-lost mansions replaced in past centuries by their families as a result of accident or through changes in building fashion. Each entry combines J.A.K. Dean is a retired architect and is the Purdysburn, 1825–1965 concise research and field notes and is referenced and related to a bibliography. Images have been sourced for the majority of the 179 entries.author of the acclaimed series on The gate The motivation for assembling this record is twofold. Firstly, a long-abiding fascination for the lodges of Ulster (1994), The gate lodges of enduringly picturesque image of the big house and its setting is tempered with a melancholy concern about grievous losses. Secondly, a gap left by Leinster (2016), The gate lodges of Munster equivalent publications in the UK and Ireland is filled. (2018) and The gate lodges of Connaught Drumbanagher, 1830–1951 (2019) for which the Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain awarded him the prestigious Colvin Prize.

Mount Panther,Clough (HERoNI).

THE PLIGHT OF THE BIG HOUSE IN NORTHERN IRELAND

J . A . K . Dean

THE PLIGHT OF THE BIG HOUSE

IN NORTHERN IRELAND

J.A.K. Dean THE PLIGHT OF THE BIG HOUSE IN NORTHERN IRELAND by J.A.K.Dean UAH, 2020 Available from Ulster Architectural Heritage, The Old Museum Building, 7 College Square North, Belfast BT1 6AR info@uahs.org; www.ulsterarchitecturalheritage.org.uk and selected bookshops. ISBN 978-0-900457-83-8 (softback) 154pp. £24 (£18 for UAH members).

1. What do you love most about your job?

With Established Coff ee, it’s great working with a great team of like minded people who also love working with the public and meeting loads of cool people. The coff ee industry is a great learning place and there’s always interesting coff ees/brew methods and other coff ee nerd stuff to try out which keeps it interesting too. With my band Gnarkats, it’s amazing to be in a band with two of your best mates (Stuart Robinson & Louis Nelson) and have as much fun as we do writing music, playing gigs and releasing music we are super proud of. It’s great to be creative and get some really cool opportunities and getting to work with other really talented creative people.

2. What has been your career highlight to date?

We are releasing our new EP in early 2021 and this collection of songs is our best work so far and something we worked really hard on with our producer Paul Mahon. Getting to work with Paul in his studio was amazing and we can’t wait to let people hear the full EP. This EP and some cool gigs including our show in London, have been highlights.

3. What are your favourite hobbies/ activities outside of work?

My fi ancée Lauren and I love travelling to diff erent countries and cities, obviously we haven’t been going many places this year so we’ve had fun exploring more places closer to home. We also love going out for food and going to gigs which we have defi nitely missed this year! We are also getting married next year so we have been busy planning that which has been fun.

4. What is your daily routine?

If I am working that day, I get up, shower, brew coff ee and make breakfast, feed my cat Kylo and walk to work, listening to a podcast/ music. I will then walk home from work, play guitar and then do some house work. After this I normally make dinner and chill, then we like to watch TV. If I am off that day, it just depends what I have planned that day but it always starts with coff ee and breakfast!

JORDAN EVANS

Guitarist for Gnarkats & Barista at Established Coffee

10. FAVOURITE

Movie: Star Wars - The Empire Strikes Back

Band/Musician: David Bowie

Book: Girl in a Band - Kim Gordon

Restaurant: Coppi in Belfast Holiday Destination: Copenhagen, Denmark

Drink: Lilt

Meal: Salted Chilli Chicken

5. Do you have a fi tness regime?

I don’t have any strict fi tness regime but I walk everyday, whether its walking to work or going for a walk in Ormeau Park. I also do yoga occasionally. I did start to do some running this year and have been enjoying that.

6. Do you have any tips for staying positive during this time?

Always do what makes you happy and don’t worry about what anyone else thinks.

7. What do you think is the best thing about living in Northern Ireland?

The best thing about living in NI is the people and you are always a short drive away from amazing scenery and places to walk. There’s loads of talented artists and musicians always doing something interesting and we aren’t short of cool places to eat/drink.

8. What is your mantra or favourite quote that you live by?

I don’t really have a mantra or a favourite quote but I’ll go with ‘This Is The Way’ from The Mandalorian.

9. Who has been your biggest infl uence?

That is a hard question but people like David Bowie who musically always did what he wanted to do is inspiring to me. Also, my parents (Sharon & Hugh) have been a great infl uence growing up and very supportive.

SPREADING THE NEWS

We look at some of the stories making headlines this month.

STEP INTO ACTION

Northern Ireland’s leading, local cancer charity Action Cancer has confi rmed it is still operating cancer prevention, detection and support services during the current lockdown.

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, Action Cancer has adapted its services so that these can be delivered safely face-to-face with the use of PPE and stringent sanitising measures (in line with government guidelines) or they have been moved to a virtual delivery format.

The charity would like to encourage members of the public to avail of the support, which is currently on offer at Action Cancer House in Belfast or online/via telephone.

Health checks for men and women (aged 16+) are currently available at Action Cancer House. Health promotion programmes for workplaces and community groups that are now available online include: Cancer Awareness and Healthy Living (both one hour interactive talks) and Step Into Action (delivered across 6 sessions).

Therapeutic services with appointments on offer to anyone affected by cancer include: counselling, life coaching (both either online or via phone), complementary therapy (online), peer mentoring (via phone) and the three-day Positive Living Programme (online).

To book an appointment with Action Cancer phone 028 980 3344 or book online at www.actioncancer.org/appointments Action Cancer’s Chief Executive Gareth Kirk.

BAGS OF STYLE

Lidl Northern Ireland is calling budding young artists across the region to unleash their inner Picasso and create an eye-catching design to feature on the retailer’s brand new heavy-duty plastic shopping bags, due to hit stores later this year.

Drawing inspiration from the world around them, and their own imagination, children are encouraged to get creative and submit a drawing, sketch or painting of what one of the R’s of Sustainability means to them – choosing from the themes ‘reduce’, ‘reuse’ or ‘recycle’.

To be in with a chance to win, pick up a colouring competition entry form in any Lidl Northern Ireland store from Monday 25th January, or download the form at www.lidl-ni.co.uk/shoppingbags and print it off at home. To submit your masterpiece, entrants can take a picture of their creation and upload it to the competition’s webpage. Entries close at 11.59pm on Sunday 28th February.

FUTURE PROOF

A Lisburn-based company has designed a revolutionary, reusable, all-in-one face and neck guard, designed to help protect against COVID-19.

Hi Viso, the creation of Belfast entrepreneur, James Leckey offers full-face visibility making it suitable for client facing settings and where social distancing cannot be achieved.

Lightweight, comfortable and breathable, Hi Viso encompasses an all-in-one mask and visor with an innovative headband designed for comfort and improved ventilation.

The company has partnered with Usel, a leading provider in helping people with disabilities or health conditions gain employment in Northern Ireland, on the production and distribution of Hi Viso.

Emerald Wright, Lydia Stockdale and Lizzie, Scarlett Reid, Ellie Reid and Maisie.

Niall, Monica, Daniel, Ciara and Jack Davey.

SIR THOMAS AND LADY DIXON PARK

Locals and visitors enjoyed the meadows, woodland trails and gardens in one of Belfast’s favourite public parks close to Lagan Valley Regional Park in south Belfast.

Rick, Louise and Alec Foye.

. Ava and brother Alfi e Hillick.

Hanna Montgomery and Connor Graham with Kylo. Mark and Eleanor Wardil. Caroline McMahon, Sean Carson-McMahon and Sean Carson.

This month, Ulster Tatler speaks to Mr. A Smyth, Headmaster of Inchmarlo Preparatory School.Ulster Tatler speaks to Mr. A Smyth, Headmaster of Inchmarlo Preparatory School.

How long have you been headmaster at Inchmarlo Preparatory School? Inchmarlo Preparatory School?

This is my 6th year as Head of Inchmarlo. This is my 6th year as Head of Inchmarlo.

What do you love most about your job? What do you love most about your job?

One of the best things is the variation from One of the best things is the variation from day-to-day. I am a teaching Head so I get to day-to-day. I am a teaching Head so I get to work with the boys in class in the morning work with the boys in class in the morning before heading to the offi ce in the afternoon before heading to the offi ce in the afternoon to work on the day-to-day running of the to work on the day-to-day running of the school. No day is the same and there are school. No day is the same and there are plenty of plates always spinning throughout plenty of plates always spinning throughout the week.

What makes Inchmarlo different to other schools? What is a typical day for an Inchmarlo

There are many things that make us student? different. Firstly we are a department School can start at 8am with breakfast club, of an excellent Belfast grammar school, but most boys arrive at 8.55 for lessons to RBAI, and yet we have our own dedicated begin. Most days our younger boys will take site in south Belfast. This means we can part in their 5 –a-day challenge, which allows enjoy all the advantages of being part of them to get moving and warmed up before a big school, such as specialist teachers, schools starts. For all classes the bulk of resources, sports grounds, transport and the day is taken up with working hard on curriculum support and yet we can maintain the basics – plenty of core skills in literacy our own unique small school feel here in and numeracy combined with more hands BT9. Secondly we are different because on learning to tap into our boys learning we are an all boys prep. This is somewhat styles. During the day there are many music, unique in Northern Ireland, but it allows us speech and drama teachers visiting the to cater specifi cally for the needs of boys. school, and the boys may go out for some At Inchmarlo we design lessons that focus tuition. We feel it is important that these on the specifi c learning needs of boys. For example, teachers capitalise on boys’ natural curiosity and energy by incorporating movement and hands-on learning tools into everyday lessons. Most importantly we have teachers who know boys. Finally what makes us very different from most schools is SPACE. Space to play, space to develop, and space to be a boy.

What are the benefi ts of attending a Prepartory school?

One of the biggest benefi ts is small class sizes. We have a maximum class size of 24, which means that there is much more time are incorporated into the day in order to for working with each boys individual needs. save parents the need to go back out in the The teachers get to know the boys both evening, after work and school, to source in their class, but also from across the age these themselves. We all lunch together groups meaning that we are confi dent that in the dining hall where the boys quickly The unique personality of each boy and their learn about new foods, table manners learning styles are know and built upon. and cleaning up after themselves. The afternoons are often taken up with the more What extra curricular activities can practical areas of the curriculum. Some students get involved in? classes may be in our ICT suite exploring In a normal ‘non’ pandemic year the boys the PCs or Ipads, others may be on our have a choice of 28 different extra curricular two astro turf pitches playing sport and activites. These are spread out across sport, some may be in our dedicated forest school music, drama and life skills for the future. building dens, making mud pies or cooking The boys have opportunities in football, sausages on a bonfi re. hockey, cricket and rugby, but also have options such as judo, badminton and yoga. We have an orchestra, choir and brass band who all meet weekly and other activires such as ICT clubs and Young entrepreneurs allow all boys a chance to explore the things that really interest them.

What makes Inchmarlo different to other

There are many things that make us different. Firstly we are a department of an excellent Belfast grammar school, RBAI, and yet we have our own dedicated site in south Belfast. This means we can enjoy all the advantages of being part of a big school, such as specialist teachers, resources, sports grounds, transport and curriculum support and yet we can maintain our own unique small school feel here in BT9. Secondly we are different because we are an all boys prep. This is somewhat unique in Northern Ireland, but it allows us to cater specifi cally for the needs of boys. At Inchmarlo we design lessons that focus on the specifi c learning needs of boys. For example, teachers capitalise on boys’ natural curiosity and energy by incorporating movement and hands-on learning tools into everyday lessons. Most importantly we have teachers who know boys. Finally what makes us very different from most schools is SPACE. Space to play, space to develop,

What is a typical day for an Inchmarlo student?

School can start at 8am with breakfast club, but most boys arrive at 8.55 for lessons to begin. Most days our younger boys will take part in their 5 –a-day challenge, which allows them to get moving and warmed up before schools starts. For all classes the bulk of the day is taken up with working hard on the basics – plenty of core skills in literacy and numeracy combined with more hands on learning to tap into our boys learning styles. During the day there are many music, speech and drama teachers visiting the school, and the boys may go out for some tuition. We feel it is important that these

What are the benefi ts of attending a

At what age do you take students, do At what age do you take students, do they start in P1 aged 4-5, or can they start they start in P1 aged 4-5, or can they start earlier in a reception year? earlier in a reception year?

We have a Pre-Foundation class, which is We have a Pre-Foundation class, which is the equivalent of a nursery class. The boys the equivalent of a nursery class. The boys can come here in the year before starting can come here in the year before starting school. We follow the Early Years curriculum school. We follow the Early Years curriculum and our Pre-Foundation boys get automatic and our Pre-Foundation boys get automatic entry in to P1 for the following year. entry in to P1 for the following year.

If a parent is interested in sending their If a parent is interested in sending their child to Inchmarlo when should they start child to Inchmarlo when should they start the enrolment process? the enrolment process?

The enrolment process can happen at The enrolment process can happen at any stage, however we do work a fi rst any stage, however we do work a fi rst come, fi rst served policy so the sooner the come, fi rst served policy so the sooner the better! We are not tied to the Department better! We are not tied to the Department of Education timeframes so application of Education timeframes so application involves going to our website, downloading involves going to our website, downloading a form and sending it back. We will then a form and sending it back. We will then call you to chat through any questions or call you to chat through any questions or queries you might have. queries you might have.

How did you adapt to the pandemic, did How did you adapt to the pandemic, did you fi nd the transition to home learning you fi nd the transition to home learning and back to in-school learning a smooth and back to in-school learning a smooth one – and what support do you offer for one – and what support do you offer for home schooling? home schooling?

The last lockdown was much harder for us The last lockdown was much harder for us than this one. I think all schools are more than this one. I think all schools are more equipped both with hardwear and also with equipped both with hardwear and also with better and wider guidance on how remote better and wider guidance on how remote learning should work. In both lockdowns we learning should work. In both lockdowns we have worked off hard copy booklets, which have worked off hard copy booklets, which parents can pick up from school. This allows parents can pick up from school. This allows a felxibility to complete the work at a time a felxibility to complete the work at a time convenient to them and to fi t around their convenient to them and to fi t around their work patterns. During this current lockdown work patterns. During this current lockdown however the teachers have supported the however the teachers have supported the booklets by holding live online lessons three booklets by holding live online lessons three times per day. This is happening from P1 – times per day. This is happening from P1 – P7. This gives the boys a chance to catch P7. This gives the boys a chance to catch up with their teacher and each other, get an up with their teacher and each other, get an expalnaition of the work set and to review expalnaition of the work set and to review the work once it is completed. Feedback the work once it is completed. Feedback on this has been excellent so far. It gives on this has been excellent so far. It gives the boys structrue to the day, it allows the the boys structrue to the day, it allows the teachers to teach rather than hand out teachers to teach rather than hand out work and it allows parents to keep the boys work and it allows parents to keep the boys on track knowing that the teacher is on on track knowing that the teacher is on checking up on it. checking up on it.

Cranmore Park, Belfast BT9 6JR T: 028 9038 1454

Andrew and Dee Shields with Eddie. Alison Johnston with Lewis and Adam.

Sam and Rosie Heaney with Freya.

Keara and Jeff Curry with Daisy.

WALLACE PARK, LISBURN

Families fl ocked to Wallace Park in Lisburn to enjoy the winter sunshine.

Luke, Ben, Libby, Joe and mum Lorraine Acheson.

. Lisburn lady picnickers.

Chris Rea, Molly Stevenson and Mark Rea. Seated are Oliver Rea, Archie McCrum, Grandad Kieron Rea and Nanny Michelle Rea. Ricardo, Demi and Roman Manso with dogs Frankie and Dudley. Ellen McCandless and Sophia Mackey with Teddy.

1. Inspiration can arise from adversity

If the year 2020 has taught us nothing else, it is that we can all be inspired to learn new things, even in the most difficult and challenging of situations. When the announcement of lockdown came in March, our plans for further developing our virtual learning platform accelerated and we have not looked back since. The challenge of delivering blended learning from Pre-School to P7, inspired us all to work harder, find solutions and think outside of the box. Our whole school discovered new talents including the power of technology to help make things happen. Yet it was the human touch behind the technology that shone through with teachers and parents working together to help children continue to learn, to engage and to succeed.

2. A sense of community can help us pull through

The unpredictability of 2020 has taught us that the support of others and collective endeavour has been more important than ever. Our school community has flourished during this time where people have gone out of their way to show kindness, empathy and understanding towards one another. From positive communications, to overwhelming acts of kindness; these actions have re-affirmed that together is better.

3. 2020 was a year to re-evaluate what is important in life

It was recognised early on that it was an impossible task for families to balance the demands of work with home schooling and something had to give. The need to slow down, take stock and spend more time at home has led to our children having a more balanced way of life. As school reopened for everyone in August, there was an upsurge in outdoor activities, visits to local parks and a re-connection to nature. Living in the moment has become a target in VCB Prep, with a focus on learning outside of the classroom becoming even more popular than ever.

4. Good mental and physical health are entwined

Helping children to cope with life, including its ups and downs, came to the forefront during 2020. Physical health, eating a balanced diet and getting regular exercise continues to be promoted through a welldeveloped cross curriculum with lots of opportunities to go beyond the classroom. Providing a broad and inspiring curriculum with plenty of opportunities for enrichment, problem solving, collaboration and simply having fun, is a priority.

At VCB Prep, we recognise that contributing to school life and the wider community, making a difference, being valued, and having opportunities to succeed builds a sense of high self-esteem and good mental health. A curriculum which focuses on building healthy relationships, caring for each other and our world, being mindful and focusing on the positives, makes us a School which is proactive in looking after the well- being of our children.

5. Routine and structure is grounding

When the structure of school life became disrupted, it taught us all how essential the sense of routine and order truly is. When the whole school was welcomed back in August 2020, the sense of relief for our whole school community was tangible. It was uplifting to see children re-united with friends and teachers and our school becoming whole once more. As we look forward to all 2021 has to offer, the priorities remain simple: appreciating the school routine and the strong community we have.

6. Positivity and resilience are forces to be reckoned with

Although this has been a time of loss and uncertainty will undoubtedly continue through 2021, the children at VCB Prep have helped us all get through. Their ability to live in the moment, to see joy in small things and to be able to dust themselves down and pick themselves up again, have inspired all the adults who are fortunate enough to work alongside them.

7. Communication is the key

The key throughout this period and beyond has been to widen up communication channels between parents and children so that people feel supported and they know that school is still there to offer support and guidance. The partnership between home and school was vital during 2020 and continues to remain central.

8. Everyone has a role to play

During the pandemic, VCB Prep stood out as a strong team with all staff working closely together in the best interests of our children and families during this time. Effective team work meant that remote learning was rolled out immediately, key worker provision was put in place and pastoral needs were met. Our dedicated administration staff continue to go out of their way to provide a personal service to all our parents; highly qualified and specialist teachers are committed to providing a warm but rigorous learning environment where children are equipped for a life- long love of learning.

9. For every problem there is a solution

Perseverance and endeavour has seen our children survive and thrive. Recognition is paid to the resolve of our children to find solutions, to their enthusiasm, to the flexibility of our staff and the commitment of our parents to make the best of a difficult situation. What we have learnt from last year will stand us in good stead as we find ourselves in yet another lockdown, but we have done it before and we can most certainly do it again.

10. The right School can make a difference

The reality of lockdown makes us all appreciative of the power of an excellent education and the importance of feeling connected. At VCB Prep we provide both. During a child’s time with us they will experience the best that a primary school education can offer, including smaller class sizes, specialist teaching and a commitment from the whole team to go that extra mile. As a dependable and well established school we take pride in being a real community, working closely with parents to bring out the best in each individual child. VCB Prep is a nondenominational, creative and innovative school which recognises that success can come in many forms. We realise that passions can be discovered and fostered from an early age, and opportunities are there for the taking. Victoria College Preparatory School is a gem in Belfast worth considering for your daughter.

through 2021, the children at VCB Prep have in the moment, to see joy in small things and

to widen up communication channels between parents guidance. The partnership between home and school was vital during 2020 and continues to remain central.

During the pandemic, VCB Prep stood out as a strong team with all staff working closely together in the best