3 minute read
TIME TRIALS
From watery depths to wooded off-the-path adventures, these technically superb wrist marvels are more than up to the gruelling task, writes Chris
What is a watch? Is it a fashion statement? A status symbol? A sentimental heirloom? It can be all of these, and more. But perhaps one thing it is not – in the eyes of many, anyway – is the one thing that it was originally designed to be: a functional tool.
That’s no surprise; mechanical watchmaking ceased to be cuttingedge technology half a century ago, and the industry survived by recasting itself as a luxury business. But that didn’t mean Switzerland’s finest (and those in Britain, Japan or Germany) started prioritising style over substance. Far from it: today’s watches are tougher, more reliable, more resistant to outside interference and built to higher standards than ever before.
The cynic might ask why, if most mechanical watches are more likely to be treated as valuable collectables. It’s a fair question, to be sure. But without the true technical prowess of a watch, you have merely a simulacrum: the potential ability of a highperformance item – be it a watch or an SUV – is its essence; take that away and you may as well buy an NFT.
While it may be difficult to see the utility of adventuregrade specs from a New York apartment or Hong Kong hotel room, there are still plenty of spots in the world where the cellular signal will vanish, mains power isn’t on offer and the survival of fragile electronic devices can’t be guaranteed. Moreover, as the world becomes ever smaller, intrepid souls will increasingly seek out the true wilderness. Why not pack a watch that’s up to the job?
Your first thought might be of the Rolex Explorer II (rolex. com), and you could hardly be blamed. The original Explorer –still in production – is no snowflake, but its bigger brother is the one to take on an expedition. The nononsense stainlesssteel bezel with its 24hour scale and accompanying orange arrowhead hand are the iconic details, everpresent since its launch in 1971; for the 50th anniversary Rolex gave it a longer power reserve, better luminous performance and a subtly reshaped case. Originally designed for cave exploration, its focus on legibility and 24hour timekeeping are perfect for long, disorientating stays underground. These days, it is joined by an upstart rival from sibling brand Tudor, in the form of the Black Bay Pro (tudorwatch. com). You will immediately note the family resemblance: in terms of basic functionality the two are almost inseparable, as the bezel and additional 24hour hand would imply. However, the Tudor is smaller, at 39mm vs 42mm; it’s also regulated to a lower standard of daily accuracy and costs less than half the price of the Rolex. It does boast double the water resistance, at 200m, so if caving suddenly turns into cavediving, you’ll be covered.
If underwater exploration is your passion, you are spoilt for choice. But why not go straight to the most hardcore dive watch available: Omega’s Planet Ocean Ultra Deep (omegawatches.com), a titanium and ceramic beast of a watch that’s rated to withstand an astonishing 6,000m of submarine pressure.
Or, if that seems like overkill, there’s Bremont’s Waterman Apex (bremont.com), rated to a mere 500m (enough for all needs, to be honest). Its offset crown is designed to guard against accidental knocks, and in buying one you would also be supporting the Bahamian nonprofit Bimini Shark Lab, which is dedicated to studying and protecting sharks and rays.
Back on dry land, may we recommend something that wears its toughness a bit more lightly? The Oris ProPilot Coulson (oris.ch) is developed in partnership with a group of aerial firefighters – hence the dramatic orange dial – but thanks to its lightweight yet robust carbonfibre case, it comes into its own anywhere from the Alps to the Appalachian Trail. A simple, strong watch for venturing off the beaten path –with a 10year warranty, to boot – that shows you can be practical and eyecatching at the same time.
A REALLY DEEP DIVE
Above: the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep is waterresistant to 6,000m
CLOCKWORK ORANGE
Far left: Oris’s eyepopping ProPilot Coulson is both lightweight and robust
On which note, if you are so inclined, there is something of a style statement about IWC’s monotone collection of Big Pilot Top Gun chronographs in solid ceramic. The Woodland Edition in forest green (iwc.com) is our pick; it’s a 44.5mm inhouse chrono on a textile and rubber strap that says build quality is important, but so is a commitment to good design.
Perhaps the ultimate wristworn expression of extreme outdoor pursuits comes from Panerai. Released last year, the Submersible Forze Speciali (panerai.com) was created in partnership with Italian elite military units and, at 47mm across with a blackcoated titanium case, ceramic bezel and crosshair dial design, is about as subtle as that would imply. But one thing is to be hoped for: wherever you find yourself in the world, it shouldn’t let you down…
INTO THE BLUE
Left: Panerai’s Submersible Forze Speciali, created with Italian elite military units
BRANCHING OUT
Below: IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph
Top Gun Edition Woodland in forestgreen ceramic
