4 minute read
Time Travellers
1 Grand Seiko SBGE275 GMT watch with textured dial resembling snow
A sextet of new watches that are the
epitome of quality for the refined globetrotter, outlined by Chris Hall
The Rolex GMT-Master first entered the world in 1955, as a direct response to the needs of Pan Am pilots who (mistakenly, it turned out) thought that maintaining some kind of awareness of the time at both their origin and destination would help combat the thennew phenomenon of jet lag. It has gone on to become one of the most enduringly popular designs, even by Rolex’s high standards, attracting nicknames as colourful as its two-tone bezels and a cult following far beyond that of other aviationinspired timepieces. At such a fundamentally conservative watchmaker, it has stood out in the past as home to less conventional ideas, such as the pairing of an ostensibly toolish watch with only the fancier ‘Jubilee’ bracelet in 2018. In Geneva, at this year’s Watches and Wonders annual horological jamboree, it was the GMT-Master II that stole the show, thanks to Rolex’s completely unexpected decision to launch a left-handed version (ie, one to be worn on the right wrist, hence the misleading ‘destro’ nickname attached to such watches). Combined with an of-the-moment green and black ceramic bezel, it shot to the top of wish lists and provoked endless passion across social media. It is just one, however, of a veritable fleet of travel-time watches to have launched this year. Despite the watch industry’s long lead times, you cannot escape the sense that this was no accident, as the planet finally emerged from the grip of lockdown. Rolex’s sister brand Tudor was not going to be left behind, launching the Black Bay Pro, a 39mm stainless-steel model that drew comparisons to a much-loved Rolex of yesteryear, the reference 1655 Explorer II, thanks to its backto-basics fixed steel bezel and yellow GMT hand. It’s hard to criticise Tudor for emulating such a successful look, however. And no one has a monopoly on the concept of a differently coloured central hand for the second time zone – something Grand Seiko has developed to great effect over the years. It bolstered its range with no fewer than seven GMT-equipped watches, the pick of which is reference SBGE275, with a dial textured to resemble melting snow on Japan’s central mountains. The complication has been a mainstay at Grand Seiko for some years but the recent designs, which include a two-tone bezel, bring it to the fore. Meanwhile, at Montblanc, the launch of the 1858 GMT Automatic Date came as part of a bigger shift towards adventure and activity (the brand also launched its first dive-watch collection), and eschewed the typical third hand for a peripheral ring indicator, which shows the second time zone with a rotating red segment – a neat, restrained solution that maintains the clarity of the main timekeeping hands.
But perhaps you’re looking for a more upmarket travel watch – something that can’t be faulted for legibility or wearability, but which plays in more refined waters. Enter the Patek Philippe reference 5326G, a stunning fusion of Patek’s usual finery (a hand-finished micro-rotor movement; the case with its tiny hobnail pattern all along the sides) with an unexpected aesthetic led by the grainy, charcoal-coloured dial and sandy nubuck strap that echoes the beige hands and numerals. Intended to evoke vintage camera bodies, there’s a powerful sense of nostalgia running through it, resulting in a watch that’s about as utilitarian as a Patek Philippe ever can be, without compromising on the quality of the finished item.
Perhaps, though, we should save the last word for Hermès, whose Arceau Le Temps Voyageur elevates the concept of globetrotter watchmaking to whimsical new levels. Present are the signature elements of a world-time watch – a ring of cities, a map of the world – but you’ll soon notice it’s not our world, rather a fictional, equestrian-inspired land. And the time itself is displayed on a miniature dial – so far, nothing too surprising, but then you go to adjust the time zone and realise that this entire dial rotates as the hours pass, describing a full transit of this imaginary chart every 24 hours. Now that’s a watch to make you fall in love with the idea of travel all over again.
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2 ROLEX GMT-Master II in steel with crown on the left and green and black ceramic beze
3 TUDOR Black Bay Pro in steel with black fabric strap with yellow band
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4 PATEK PHILIPPE Ref 5326G in white gold with anthracitecoloured dial inspired by vintage cameras 5 HERMÈS Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in steel with fantasy map with equestrian theme 6 MONTBLANC 1858 GMT Automatic Date in steel with red square indicating second time zone
5 The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur by Hermès elevates the concept of globetrotter watchmaking to whimsical new levels
