Milk and So Much More

Milk and So Much More

Shake it up with ice cream treats at Moo Thru

Fourth generation dairy farmer Ken Smith By Kevin Ramundo

Photo by Susan Russell

By Kevin Ramundo

Ken Smith is a fourth-generation dairy farmer who loves his business and the land.

He and his son, Ben, operate the largest dairy farm in Fauquier County. When Ken took over the Cool Lawn Farm from his father in 1981, it was home to 120 cattle on 270 acres. Today, the farm boasts 1,250 acres and 2,000 cattle and the source of some of the finest ice cream around.

Success in the dairy business doesn’t come easily. When Ken got started, there were 2,700 dairy farms in Virginia, and now there are less than 450. In this business, automation and technology play a large role in reducing costs, creating an environmentally sensitive operation and keeping cows highly productive and healthy. Each of Ken’s cows has a radio frequency sensor that monitors the animal’s health and milk production. The “milking parlor” is automated with equipment that milks the cows, and the barns are cooled by a computerized system of fans, misting equipment and automatic shades that keep the inside temperature at least 10 degrees cooler than the outside on hot days.

One of the reasons Ken has been so successful is because he is an avid learner. He knows that, “You can’t recreate the past, but must adapt to the present and look to the future.” One way he learns is through his service on boards including the Dairy Alliance, the Maryland Virginia Milk Producers’ Cooperative, the Farm Credit Bureau, and the Agricultural and Forestry Board of Fauquier County.

Ken cares deeply about open land preservation and helping the next generation of dairy farmers. More than 75 percent of his land is in permanent conservation easement, and he was first in line when Fauquier County established its Purchase of Development Rights (PDR) program. He mentors young dairy farmers on how to be successful, constantly preaching the importance of growth because economies of scale matter so much.

Moo Thru and The Red Truck Bakery have collaborated on a line of ice cream

Photo by Vicky Moon

According to Ken, “Successful dairy farmers have to continue to increase the size of their herds significantly, and invest in technology as fast as it becomes available.”

If you are not familiar with Moo Thru, Ken’s ice cream business, it’s time you are. Ken and Pam, his wife of 35 years, started the business in 2010 with their first store on Routes 15 and 29 near Remington. The idea originated on a family vacation in Nags Head, North Carolina. And a great idea it was! It allowed Ken to realize more value from his dairy rather than just selling the milk outright.

And who doesn’t love ice cream! Especially the rich, lowfat ice cream Moo Thru sells which is based on Ken and Pam’s own recipes. The business has expanded through new locations, franchising and marketing agreements. Today Moo Thru ice cream is available in Remington, Lake Anna, Culpepper, Rappahannock, Warrenton, Hillsboro and soon in Winchester. To support Moo Thru’s growth, Ken built an ice cream plant on the farm which is managed by his daughter, Taylor Gough, and her husband, Kyle. The business now employs 65 people.

One last thing you should know about Ken. He cares very deeply about the future of open space and farming. He is quick to point out that for agriculture to remain viable and to thrive, there must be plenty of affordable land and local businesses that sell products and services farmers need. He’s concerned about suburban sprawl and is a strong supporter of zoning that concentrates development so that open land remains in good supply at affordable prices. And he believes that locally produced food is important to our communities, and that includes ice cream.

Details: Moo Thru, 11402 James Madison Hwy., Remington, VA. 22734, 540-439-6455, info@moothru.com, www.moothru.com.