A brief Introduction to Peruvian cuisine History

QHAPAQ ÑAN

the Culture of

HISTORY

As a monthly printed Peruvian magazine, we focus on topics such as geography, history, and South American culture.

The Qhapaq Ñan or Inca Roads are a network of over 60 routes that spanned thousands of kilometers and connected the diverse territories of the Tahuantinsuyo (Inca Empire) across present-day Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

I am more Peruvian than potatoes and I miss Peruvian food each time I am away from home. I was born in Cusco - Perú, but I decided to move from home to study abroad. I studied for two years in Norway, and three years in the United States. When I moved to these countries I soon realized that none of these gastronomies resembles the diversity of Peruvian gastronomy.

Peruvian food is diverse thanks to the diversity of ethnicities, altitudes and climates in the country. This facts allow the cultivation of a wide variety of ingredients. For example, I have seen potatoes of all shapes, sizes, and colors in Perú. I have traveled around Europe, the United States, and South America. I have been in countries like Italy, Spain, Brazil, Bolivia, Norway, Costa Rica, Argentina, The Netherlands, and United States. And, only Bolivia has some of the kinds of potatoes that Perú has. Thus, one of the main factors that make Peruvian gastronomy diverse is the diversity of its ingridients.

The cultural diversity is another fact that makes Peruvian gastronomy so diverse. The Quechuas (Indigenous people from the Andes Mountains that begun the expation of the Inca Empire) are very humble, welcoming and respetcful with other cultures. I have met with them many times, and I belive that when Spanish conquerors defeated the Inca Empire, the Quechuas respected and incoopored all the cuisine knowledge they could from the conquers. Moreover, Peruivian creoles (people of mixed colonial Spanish, AfroPeruvian, and/or Native Quechua ancestry)

did not let their gastronomy tradions die. Thus, there has being a fusion between the Spanish new ingridients and their ways of cooking, and the Peruvian creole gastronomy traditions.

Moreover, Peruvian creoles fusionated their gastronomy with several countries and cultures. Peruvian food has Pre-Inca, Inca, Sapnish, African, French, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Arab, and Venezuelan influences. It is indisputable that the imagination of Peruvians to create new dishes, and the desire of immigrants to share their gastronmy in Perú contributed to the diversity of Peruvian food.

I hope you enjoy reading this magazine. I have compiled information from different sources that talk about Peruvian food, and its history. History is complex, and there is always a different version of the story. This magazine considers the most popular versions of Peruvian cuisine history.

I have never found a gastronomy as diverse as Peruvian Cuisine

Edson Mauricio Cadenillas Ñaccha” UWC Red Cross Nordic, Flekke, Norway - 2017 Photo by Kalyani Mohan

Queros (Inca descendants community) Paucartambo, Cusco, Perú

Photo by Jimmy P. Nelson

“Flavors of Perú” Phoo taken from Huston ´ s got Spice

PERUVIAN CUISINE TIMELINE

Peruvian Gastronomy has been influenced by several countries and cultures throughout its history.

Peruvian gastronomy brings together a great diversity of Peruvian creole (mix of Spanish, indigenous, and Afro-Peruvian ethnicities) mixtures and gastronomies Europe, Asia, America, and Africa.

PRE-COLUMBIAN PERUVIAN CUISINE

(9000 BC - 1533 AC)

The Pre-Columbian cultures were aware of the richness of the actual Peruvian territory and took advantage of this fact.

Ancient Peruvians domesticated a lot of species of plants and animals. They developed a complex system of land management, took advantage of the various ecological and climatic zones in which they lived. This was done through the development of terraces, irrigation systems and the use of natural fertilizers. In the Peruvian Andes, for instance, more than 5,000 varieties of potatoes have been domesticated.

Other species such as sweet potatoes, quinoa, tomatoes, lucuma, legumes, etc. were also domesticated for human consumption.

Each culture among the current Peruvian territory had its own particular culinary characteristics. The first great culinary fusion occurred with the consolidation and the expansion of the Inca empire.

As the empire expanded the ancient Quechuas started incorporating ingredients from other regions into their diet, such as fish and shellfish from the Peruvian Coast. Due to these cultural exchanges new typical Peruvian dishes such as “The Carapulcra” began to emerge.

The typical Quechua cuisine features guinea pig, alpaca, and llama meat. These meats were transformed into “Charqui” to preserve them for longer periods of time.

“La Carapulcra”

“The Carapulcra” [1] is considered the oldest Peruvian stew. It was inherited from the Southern Aymara people who had a simpler version.

In contemporary Peruvian and Bolivian cuisine, The Carapulcra is made with stew of pork and dehydrated potatoes seasoned with panca chili (cultivated in South America), garlic, and other spices like clove. In ancient times llama meat or alpaca meat would have been used. Some people still use these meats today.

“El Charqui”

The word “Charqui” [2] comes from the Quechua language, and makes reference to meat that was salted and dried in the air or in the sun. This process of dehydration is still used to preserve any meat for consumption to this day.

[1] Traditional Carapulcra. Photo taken from Adobe Stock (free use)

[2] “Charqui” on a Traditional Peruvian market. Photo by Javier Gonzales

QR code: The Original People of Peru: The Quechua (Indigenous People Documentary)

Youtube video by TRACKS

“EL CEVICHE”

Ceviche is one of the most iconic dishes from Peruvian cuisine.

[1] “Ceviche” Photo from Shutterstock

The current Peruvian ceviche [1] is a byproduct of the incorporation of sea food on Quechua´s cuisine. It is a dish made from fresh raw fish marinated in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with ají peppers. The acidity in the citrus juice denatures the proteins in the fish, partially “cooking” it. The current Peruvain ceviche is usually served cold with chopped onion, chili peppers, and cilantro. It is often accompanied by side dishes such as sweet potato, corn, lettuce, and plantain.

According to some historic sources from Peru, the Moche were the first to discover and refine the culinary art of ceviche. The Moche were a pre-Columbian culture that developed in northern costs of Peru and Southern Ecuador from around 100 CE to about 800 CE. Since lemons were only used after the Spanish conquers arrival, Moches had a different version to cook ceviche. They apparently used the fermented juice from the local banana passionfruit.

Recent investigations further show that during the Inca Empire, fish was marinated with chicha [page 18]. Different chronicles also report that along the Peruvian coast prior to the arrival of Spaniards, fish was consumed with salt and chili.

There are various stories regarding the origin of ceviche, but we only know that Peru and Ecuador both claim ownership of the dish. It is likely because they were influenced by the Incas. However, the first official recipe for this dish was writen in 1860 by Manual Atanasio Fuentes in “The Guide of Lima.”

The Moches are believed to be Ceviche’s first inventors.

QR code: “EPIC $3 Ceviche & Leche de Tigre in Lima ” Youtube video by Way Beyond Pad Thai

Quechuas mixed up their ingriends with Moche´s Ceviche.

“PACHAMANCA”

The most popular way of cooking of the ancient Quechuas was using clay pots. The pots were used to cook soups, stews, and even roasts. The Quechuas would also use adobe ovens to bake breads and cakes. Firewood was used to heat the pots and ovens. However, the most unusual way of cooking was Pachamanca.

Pachamanca means pot of earth. It comes from two Quechua words: “Pacha” which means earth and “Manka” which means cooking pot. But it is important to say that in the Aimara language “Manka” means food. So, Pachamanca makes reference to a traditional way of cooking and also to a typical Peruvian Dish.

Pachamanca as a traditional way of cooking [1] involves the use of hot stones to heat a variety of foods such as potatoes, corn, beans, and meats. The food is wrapped in banana leaves or put in a pot, and then placed into a hole in the ground that is lined with the hot stones. The food is then covered with more hot stones and left to cook for several hours. The result is a flavorful and filling meal. Pachamanca can be found throughout the Andes, from Peru to Bolivia.

QR code: 8,000 YEAR-OLD BARBECUE STYLE - Ancient Inca Food in Peru!

Youtube video by Mark Wiens

[1] How stones are used to cook

Photo taken from Peru Travel

Pre-Culumbian cultures made ovens with natural elements to cook

PAC H AMAN C A AS A DISH

“Pachamanca” is generally made of lamb, mutton, alpaca, llama, guanaco, vicuña, pork, beef, chicken, or guinea pig, marinated in herbs and spices. Other Andean products, such as potato or chuño (naturally freeze-dried potato), broad beans, sweet potato, mashua, oca, ulluco, cassava, yacon, plantain, humitas (corn cakes), ears of corn, and chilli are often included in the baking.

Pachamanca is not only a way of cooking, but also a typical Peruvian Dish

Qr code: The ancestral crops of Peru Youtube video by CGTN America

“Pachamanca” Photo from Canva

“CHICHA DE JORA”

“La Chicha de Jora” is considered the nectar of the Incas, and the Favorite drink of the Inca nobility.

Chicha de jora is an emblematic Peruvian drink with a flavor that longs for the time of the ancient Incas, still maintaining its traditional preparation since ancient times.

Legend has it that a heavy rain damaged the silos that stored the harvested corn, causing the grains to ferment and originate a malt that was discarded.

Later a hungry Indian found the discarded drink in the garbage, consumed it completely, and became tipsy. Sometime after that humble origin, chicha de Jora became the main drink of the Inca nobility, being used in important religious ceremonies in honor of the wacas (sacred places) and apus (Inca gods).

An interesting fact occurred after the arrival of the Spanish. The Inca emperor Atahualpa offered the Dominican priest Vicente de Valverde a kero (glass) of gold with chicha de Jora. The drink was thrown by the European thinking that the Inca wanted to poison him. But this act is an Inca tradition to start a conversation.

Today “La chicha de Jora” maintains its status as a ceremonial drink in the Peruvian highlands. It is served during festivities in honor of the Incas such as Inti Raymi, a celebration to adore the God Sun. The delicious corn liquor is also used to prepare typical dishes such as “Dry Lamb” and “Arequipa marinade” because it enhances their flavor.

“La chicha de Jora” was created by chance during the government of the Inca Túpac Yupanqui.

QR code: “Chicheria Mama Trinidad” Youtube video by Salkantay Treking Woman serving chicha Picture taken from Peru Travel

VICEROYALTY PERUVIAN CUISINE

(1532 AC - 1824 AC)

In the 16th century the Spanish conquered the Inca empire. Spanish conquerors brought new ingredients with them; such as dairy, pork, beef, and chicken. On top of that, they also incorporated onion and garlic to Peruvian cuisine, which along with native yellow chili have become some of the most commonly used ingredients in Peruvian cuisine even today.

The Spanish conquest contributed significantly to Peruvian gastronomy by bringing new ingredients.

Peruvian food Picture taken from MunicipiosAlDia

“Capture of Emperor Atahualpa of the Incas by Pizarro’s conquistadores” Painting by Juan Lepiani

Peruvian Lime

“...

An important product implemented during the viceroyalty time is the lime, which when adapted to Peruvian soil became the Peruvian lime.

The Peruvian lime is only around 3 to 4 cm (1.2-1.5 inches) in diameter, has a yellow to dark green, thin zest and light green flesh. Once you cut a Peruvian lime in half the air is filled with an intense, fresh, tart, and zesty scent.

Grapevines

The common grapevines (Vitis) were also incorporated on the Peruvian soil. From these grape harvests wine began to be produced. Also, the Peruvian national liqueur: “Pisco” was born.

Pisco is a colorless or yellowish-to-amber colored brandy produced in winemaking regions of Peru and Chile. It is made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof spirit. It was developed by 16th-century Spanish settlers as an alternative to orujo, a pomace brandy that was being imported from Spain.

“Ají Amarillo”

“...

Ají amarillo is a mildly spicy pepper native to South America, common in many Peruvian cuisine dishes. Ají amarillo literally means yellow chili; however, the yellow color appears when cooked, as the mature pods are bright orange.

Pisco Sour next to Peruvian Limes Picture from KimKim

“Ají Amarillo paste” Picture from PepperSale

Pisco Picture from “La Republica” News paper

QR code:

aji amarillo paste recipe english subtitles” Youtube video by Peruvian Food USA

QR code:

How to Make a Pisco Sour Cocktail” Youtube video by Epicurious

[1] “Ají de Gallina” Picture taken from Minhareceita

[3] “Arroz con pollo” Photo from “Supermercados MAS”

NEW DISHES WITH NEW INGREDIENTS

1. “Ají de Gallina”

“Ají de Gallina” [1] is translated to “Chicken chili” or “hen’s chili” from Spanish. It is typically served with boiled potatoes and white rice, and garnished with black olives and hard-boiled egg.

The dish is made with a seasoning made by sautéing red onion, garlic, and ají amarillo together. Then shredded boiled birds (usually chicken) and stock are added. Later, the stew is thickened with bread soaked in milk or evaporated milk, cheese such as parmesan, and ground nuts.

2. “Causa Limeña”

“La causa Limeña” [2] is best described as a sort of mini casserole, with the top and bottom consisting of yellow potato and the filling typically of any white meat.

In ancient Peru, it was prepared with yellow potatoes, which have a soft texture, and kneaded with crushed chilli peppers. However this dish can be made with any other variety of potato.

3. “Arroz con Pollo”

“El Arroz con Pollo” [3] (Rice with chicken) typically consists of chicken cooked with rice, onions, saffron, and a potential plethora of other grains or vegetables.

4. “Papas a la Huancahína”

“Papas a la huancaína” [4] Appetizer of boiled potatoes in a spicy, creamy sauce made of queso fresco and sautéed or grilled ají amarillo, red onion and garlic, all traditionally ground or pounded in a batán.

[2] “Causa Limeña” Photo from Publimetro

[4] “Papas a la Huancaína” Photo from Freepick

“Alfajores”

“Alfajor” comes from the Hispano-Arabic “al-hasú” which means ‘the filling.’ It was brought to Spain by the Arabs, and it was brought to Peru by the conquerors. It has acquired its own characteristics in each region of Perú.

“Alfajores” are made up of two or more cookies joined by a sweet filling and usually dipped in chocolate, icing or powdered sugar. The filling can be dulce de leche (caramel sauce) or honey, although there are also fruit alfajores, chocolate mousse and different fillings.

“Picarones”

“Los Picarones” are somewhat similar to buñuelos, a type of doughnut brought to the colonies by Spanish conquistadors. Its principal ingredients are squash and sweet potato. It is served in a doughnut form and covered with syrup, made from chancaca which is unrefined whole sugar cane.

“Suspiro a la Limeña”

“Suspiro a la Limeña” [3] is dessert is based around dulce de leche (caramel sauce), itself coming from blancmange, a dish from the Middle Ages. Blancmange came to Peru from Spain. It consisted of a thick cream made of milk, sugar, almond flour and some Iberian ingredients.

[3] “Suspiro a la Limeña”

Photo from Canva

[2] “Alfajores” Photo from Canva

[1] “Picarones”

Picture from Peru Travel

DESSERTS

“Mazamorra Morada”

“La Mazamorra morada” [4] can be translated to “purple porridge” from Spanish. The basic ingredient is purple corn, which is boiled shelled with water, cinnamon, cloves and pineapple peel and chopped fruit, such as quince and apple, and concentrate with starch.

The “Mazamorra morada” was the result of the ancient consumption of the “Purple Api,” and the merge between American and European tastes made by the mestizos and indigenous Peruvians.

Purple corn is still cultivated in southern Peru, and the ancient purple api continues to be prepared and consumed in wide regions from the coast (Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna) and the southern highlands of Peru accompanied by sopaipillas.

“Arroz con leche”

“El Arroz con leche” [5] is not owned by a single country, and is know as rice pudding in English speaking countries. The recipe for this desert has small variations from country to country. What sets the Peruvian version uses milk to cook the rice so that the dish has milk as an underlying flavor.

Thanks to the incorporation of sugar cane and milk, desserts emerged in Perú during the Viceroyalty period.

[4] “Mazamorra Morada” Photo from Peru Home

[5] “Arroz con Leche”

Photo from Chef ´sPencil

Anticucho [1] comes from the Quechua ‘Anti Kuchu’ that means ‘Anti-style cuts’, and makes reference to the way of cutting the meat (kuchu) in the Easter region of the Andes (Anti).

While the name may be attributed to the Incas, modern anticuchos are attributed to Afro-Peruvian culture. From the 16th century to the middle of the 19th century, cotton and sugar plantations on the Peruvian coast that were sustained by the labor of black slaves brought by the Spanish from Africa. The hacendados (owners of the haciendas) periodically slaughtered cows, and then, they used to give the innards, which they considered garbage, to their slaves. Because they needed to eat, they did what they could to make the innards edible. They saw how Andean people seasoned their food with native peppers, and also had access to Spanish ingredients like garlic, vinegar, cumin and salt through the hacienda kitchens. The absence of proper stoves forced them to cook over a fire, using sugar cane stalks as skewers.

AFRO - PERUVIAN FOOD

Cau Cau [2] is a Peruvian tripe stew popular in Africa, Peru, and other areas in South America. The dish normally contains tripe, onions, garlic, potatoes, and peas. However, many modern variations include chicken or beef with a side of rice. Other variations often substitute the tripe for chicken, seafood, or beef, with the main spices including cumin, turmeric, and onions.

During the Viceroyalty of Peru, African slaves cooked the animal parts that the upper classes did not eat.

“Cau Cau”

[1] “Anticuchos” Picture taken from Peru Travel

[2] “Cau Cau” Photo from Panchita.pe

The chanfainita [3] is a dish derived from the Hispanic chanfaina with African influences. It is prepared with bofe (lung) of beef or lamb.

There are countless versions and ways to accompany this symbolic Peruvian dish, although the most traditional comes with a dressing made from red onion, garlic, pepper, cumin and panca chili. Mint is one of the ingredients for chanfainita that cannot be missing, since it is the grandmother’s secret that will enhance the flavor of the preparation.

“Tacu-tacu”

Tacu-tacu [4] is a typical dish of the gastronomy of Peru, specifically of the Creole food.

The term “tacu-tacu” comes from the Quechua word “takuy” which means “mix one thing with the other”.

The tacu-tacu would have been made by black slaves, who took advantage of the leftover food to make this dish; Possibly this practice has been common among Afro-descendants in different regions of America, which is why there are similar dishes in other Latin American countries, such as gallo pinto in Costa Rica.

Rachi [5] is based on the beef booklet. The beef booklet is the third stomach of the cow and It is traditionally used to prepare this popular dish of Peruvian cuisine, although other parts of the cow’s stomach are also often used to prepare it. Rachi is made by cooking the beef booklet, marinating it for a few hours and then sautéing it on the grill or pan. It is accompanied by boiled potatoes or corn and some special sauce with some hot pepper.

“Rachi”

[3] “Chanfainita”

Photo by “Backpack ME” (Pinterest)

[4] “Tacu - tacu”

Photo from La Barra de la Abuela

[5] “Rachi”

Photo from Bon Viveur

Masato [1] is also known as “chicha de yuca” or beer from the Amazon, it is a drink made from yucca, rice, corn or pineapple, which is fermented with the help of the saliva of women who chew the yucca mass left over from boiling.

“El Juane”

The juane [2] is one of the main dishes of the cuisine of the Peruvian jungle and is widely consumed on June 24, the feast of St. John the Baptist (San Juan), hence the name. It is known that after the arrival of the Spanish people to Incan lands, missionaries popularized the biblical account of the beheading of St. John. This dish’s name could therefore be, more specifically, a reference to the head of St. John.

The first juanes were prepared with cassava, fish, callampa (edible mushroom) and wild bird eggs.

Later, with the arrival of the Spanish in Peruvian territory, products brought from Europe were included, such as chicken meat, olives, rice and many of the condiments that are currently known.

There are some varieties of juanes such as Juane de arroz, based on rice and chicken; the Avispajuane, with ground meat; the Ninajuane, [3] with chicken and egg; Chuchullijuane, with rice and chicken giblets, and Uchujuane, with fish, egg and chili. Another variety is the Sarajuane, which contains peanuts, corn and guinea

[1] “Masato de Yuca” Photo from El Siglo de Durango

[2] Closed Juane Photo from Canva

[3] Ninajuane Photo from Eat Peru

PERUVIAN AMAZON FOOD

Other ethnic groups incorporated into the viceroyalty of Peru were the groups of the Peruvian Amazon in a smaller proportion but not less important.

“Tacacho con Cecina”

Tacacho [4] is a traditional Peruvian meal that is typically served for breakfast. It originates from the Amazonas region, where the natives boil or grill the plantains, peel them, then mash them in a large wooden mortar. When mashed, the plantains are combined with lard, salt, and tiny pieces of pork rind.

The combination is then rolled into a ball and served with chorizo, various freshly harvested regional vegetables, and salted dried pork known as cecina. There is also the Ecuadorian version of tacacho, known as bolón de verde.

“Aguajina”

Aguajina is a soft drink made from the pulp of the exotic aguaje fruit. It is considered one of the most popular drinks in the Peruvian jungle and is characterized by its great flavor. It is also a source of vitamins A and C, and has antioxidant and immune system stimulant properties. It also helps reduce the appearance of acne.

[4] Tacacho con cecina Photo from ElTiempo.pe

[4] Aguajina

Photo from Wapa.pe

PERUVIAN CUISINE

(1824 AC - 2022 AC)

Peru obtained its independence in 1821 and with this the history of the country would take a new direction. Immigrants from China, Italy, and Japan brought their flavor which merged with Peruvian cuisine.

“Arroz Chaufa” [1] or Chaufa rice consists of fried rice mixed with soy sauce, some seeds, and proteins like pork, beef, or even shrimp. The Chinese working class first introduced it in Peru. Immigrants would combine all leftovers with the rice and sell it to earn some extra income. It is clear that creativity in moments of necessity has always been an ally for the Peruvian cuisine’s gastronomic development.

A series of new migrations began in the 1850s due to the country’s economic boom during the guano era.

[2] “Lomo Saltado”

Photo from Buenazope

“Arroz Chaufa”

[1] “Arroz chaufa” and first Chifa Photo from Chef ´s Pencil

[4] “Barrio Chino” (Chinatown) in Lima - Perú

Photo from Shutterstock

“Sillao”

The Sillao [3] is made from soybean is a species of legume native to East Asia, widely grown for its edible bean, which has numerous uses. Traditional unfermented food uses of soybeans include soy milk, from which tofu and tofu skin are made.

“Lomo Saltado”

Lomo saltado [2] is a popular, traditional Peruvian dish, a stir fry that typically combines marinated strips of sirloin with onions, tomatoes, and other Asian ingredients such as ginger and sesame oil. It is typically served with rice and french fries.

CHIFA (CHINESEPERUVIAN CUISINE FUSION)

Probably, the most representative was the migration of Cantonese Chinese who came to work on the Saltpeter islands and the construction of the railway central. This migration raised the popular “Chifas” [4], which are a fusion between Peruvian and Chinese food.This new fusion of ingredients added the bittersweet seasoning, which wasn´t experienced before by Peruvians.

Chifa is a culinary tradition based on Chinese Cantonese elements fused with traditional Peruvian ingredients and traditions.

[3] “Sillao”

Photo from Wikimedia Commons

Panettone is an Italian type of sweet bread originally from Milan, usually prepared and enjoyed for Christmas and New Year in Western, Southern, and Southeastern Europe, South America, Eritrea, Australia, the United States and Canada.

Its origin goes back to 1495. During the luxurious Christmas banquet given by the Duke of Milan, the desert got burnt. A young cook, called Toni, came up with a rich brioche bread, filled with raisins and candied fruit. The Duke loved it, and so the tradition of ‘Pane di Toni’ was born.

The “Peruvian style” [1] has its own peculiarities. It is not a round and flat cake, but rather it is slightly high. In addition, it has black raisins and candied fruits.

PERUVIAN - ITALIAN CUISINE FUSION

Italian immigrants were also pretty common along Peruvian piers. By 1880, approximately ten-thousand Italians were living in Peru. They were quick to open cafeterias, restaurants, and other establishments that would make Peruvians fall in love with their cooking ways. Many original Italian dishes have been Peruvianized or, rather, creolized. The most predominant culinary contributions from Italy came mainly from Genoa and secondly from Naples, as 80% of Italians who came to our country were Genoese.

Peruvian cuisine owes its first legumes to the Italian immigrants. Those would be the ones to start growing legumes such as broccoli, zucchini, chard, cauliflower, and eggplants. They also showed Peruvians one of their greatest gifts: pasta. Many traditional dishes are actually inspired by Italian food.

When Italians arrived in Peru over 100 years ago, they brought their frugal cooking style with them. Although, of course always alleging to the Peruvian cuisine.

[1] “Panetón” Photo from Ovejanegra

“Peruvian Pesto”

Pesto is a sauce originating around the 16th century in Genova, which is located in the northern region of Italy. The authentic Italian Pesto is a green sauce made with crushed garlic, basil and pine nuts blended with Parmesan cheese and olive oil. On the other hand, the Peruvian pesto uses extra/different ingredients such as spinach, milk red onions and different kinds of cheese.

A classic dish made with pesto is “Tallarines verdes” (green Noodles) [2]. It was born from the need of Italian immigrants to enjoy their famous pesto pasta. Not having all the ingredients, they tried to prepare it as similar as possible and this is how this delicious stew is created. It is usually accompanied with steak or chicken.

“Pastel de Acelgas”

Pastel de acelga [3] (chard tart), is a cake that can be salty or sweet. It comes from the Torta Pascualina or Easter Pie, originally from Liguria, in north-west Italy. The torta Pascualina was originally made with hard boiled eggs, and 33 layers of dough.

“Pastel de Acelga” is the Peruvian variation of the Italian Pascualina cake. The main difference is that “the Pascualina” is made with spinach and other vegetables and Ricotta cheese while “El pastel de acelga” is made with chard and a mixture of eggs and heavy cream. The dish became instantly popular and was the inspiration for many other savory tarts, such as the artichoke tart which is also widely consumed.

[2] “Tallarines verdes” with steak

Photo from Viveur

[3] “Pastel de Acelgas” Photo from Canva

Makis

The word maki, in Japanese, means “roll.” Makis are varieties of Japanese sushi, in which the rice has a filling and is rolled in nori seaweed. It is in this filling where Peruvian creativity has been able to show its enormous variety and flavor.

Inka Maki

The Inka Maki [1] was created in the legendary Matsuei restaurant, which opened in 1973. Its owner Luis Matsufuji and the itamae (Japanese chef) Nobu Matsuhisa were two of the pioneers of Nikkei cuisine in Peru. The inka maki, stuffed with trout, shrimp and avocado, is considered the first signature dish of Nikkei gastronomy.

Ceviche Maki Quinoa Maki

From these first classics, a wide range of possibilities opened up and Nikkei chefs have taken great advantage of them. For example, Andean grains are also used in their preparation. The quinoa maki includes fish, cream cheese, avocado and is covered by the grain to add a novel texture to the preparation.

The creation of Ceviche Maki also dates back to Matsuei, but its popularity is attributed to another classic Nikkei restaurant: Edo. This maki reinterprets the flavors of the traditional Peruvian signature dish: ceviche. Although it turns it into a maki, it respects its spirit by including raw fish and acidity in its preparation. Today it is a must in sushi bars all over the country.

Lomo Saltado Maki

The traditional and delicious Peruvian sauce, prepared with Peruvian yellow chili pepper, milk, cheese and crackers, has also found its way into Nikkei cuisine. It is usually served to accompany a breaded shrimp and avocado maki. The touch of spiciness works very well in the fusion between Peruvian and Japanese cuisine.

The possibilities go much further. Seafood is not the only food group represented in this fusion. Dishes like Peruvian Beef Stir-fry can also be adapted in maki form. The tenderloin meat, flambéed in soy sauce, as the original recipe dictates, acts as the filling. The French fries become small crispy potato strings that decorate

Huancaina Maki

[1] “Inka Maki”

Photo from Peru Travel

Tiradito

Tiradito [2] reflects the influence of Japanese immigrants on Peruvian cuisine. It comes out of the cross between Japanese sashimi and the Peruvian “ceviche.” It is made of raw fish, cut in the shape of sashimi, and of aspect similar to crudo, and carpaccio, in a spicy sauce.

Tiradito differs from ceviche in two ways: tiradito is sliced, while ceviche is cubed; and tiradito is sauced immediately before service, hence raw, while ceviche is marinated beforehand, hence “cooked”. Some authors also state that tiradito does not contain onions, but this is not universal.

Common garnishes include sweet potato and boiled corn. Stylized variants may include such ingredients as scallops, and a small amount of searing.

JAPANESE IMPACT ON PERUVIAN SEA FOOD

Nikkei gastronomy was born of a unique fusion on the planet: sophisticated Japanese cooking techniques and the megadiversity of ingredients available in Peru. Peruvian fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, grains and other ingredients opened up endless opportunities for the first Nikkei cooks.

In 1897, the Peruvian government agreed to receive Japanese farmers into the country. A crisis was hitting Japan at that moment since the Meiji era brought an agricultural decline in Japan, and Peru seemed like a good place to start over. Hundreds of Japanese arrived in Peru, ready to expand their knowledge about food and plants. Its impact was especially big on seafood, a Japanese specialty.

Nikkei cuisine was the name given to the fusion between Peruvian and Japanese cooking styles.

[2] “Tiradito”

Photo from Chili Pepper

“EL POLLO A LA BRASA”

Towards the 20th century due to the political instability and the constant economic crises there were no more representative migrations to Perú. However a decline in ethnic diversity did not hinder Peruvian creativity and so new dishes were created during this time too. “El Polllo a la brasa” [1] for example, came out in 1950.

[1] “Pollo a la Brasa” Photo from eatperu

The origins of this chicken dish are well-documented since it’s a fairly recent creation, dating from the late 1940s, and we even have a first and last name: Roger Schuler. After immigrating to Peru from Switzerland, Schuler settled in the town of Santa Clara, in the countryside near the capital of Lima, and started breeding chickens. In a bid to make some extra money from the farm, he decided to roast some of the birds there and offer them to the general public on an all-you-can-eat basis at a very low cost. Not surprisingly, the concept soon took hold and he opened a restaurant at the farm, La Granja Azul, which is still operating at the very same spot to this day.

It’s worth mentioning that Mr Schuler’s first chef initially roasted the chicken over the charcoal on a spit, turning it by hand (for close to an hour!). This is obviously very labor-intensive and was not sustainable as the restaurant grew. An acquaintance designed and custom-built the first “Pollo a la Brasa” rotisserie [2] chicken oven.

[2] “Pollo a la Brasa” on modern rotisserie oven Photo from eatperu

VENEZUELAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO PERUVIAN CUISINE

More than 7.1 million refugees and migrants from Venezuela are scattered around the world, according to latest data. Perú is the second country with the most Venezuelan migrants in the world, only after Colombia. Consequently, dishes such as “Las Cachapas”, “El Pavilion Criollo” and “Arepas” are more common in Perú.

The difference between cachapas and arepas is the type of corn used in their preparation. For the cachapa sweet corn crushed is used and for the arepa, white corn is used.

Typical Venezuelan dishes are served in the streets and restaurants of Peru thanks to the Venezuelan migration.

[1] “Pavilón Criollo”

Photo from freeimages

Pavilón Criollo”

Pabellón criollo [1] is the traditional Venezuelan dish recognized as the quintessential national dish that is part of Venezuelan gastronomy. The traditional Creole pavilion is composed of cooked white rice, shredded meat, black beans “refritas” (stewed and then stir-fried in butter or oil) and fried ripe banana slices.

Reference is often made to the fact that the dish represents the three great Venezuelan cultures: European (white: rice), Indigenous (brown: meat) and African (black: beans).

“Chapadas”

Cachapa is a traditional dish made from maize flour from Venezuela. Like arepas, they are popular at roadside stands.

They can be made like pancakes from fresh corn dough, or wrapped in dry corn leaves and boiled (cachapa de hoja). The most common varieties are made with fresh ground corn mixed into a thick batter and cooked on a budare, like pancakes. Cachapas are traditionally eaten with “queso de mano” (handmade cheese), a soft, mozzarella-like cheese in some occasions.

“Arepas”

Arepa [2] is a type of food made of ground maize dough, eaten in the northern region of South America since pre-Columbian times, and notable primarily in the cuisine of Colombia and Venezuela, but also present in the cuisines of Bolivia, Panama and other countries.

Arepas can be served with accompaniments such as cheese, cuajada (fresh cheese), various meats, chicken, avocado, or diablito (deviled ham spread). It can also be split to make sandwiches. Sizes, maize types, and added ingredients vary its preparation. It is similar to the Mexican gordita, the Salvadoran pupusa, the Ecuadorian tortilla de maíz and the tortilla or changa from Panama.

Venezuelans brought their main dishes to Perú. But there is little to no fusion between Peruvian gastronomy and Venezuelan food yet. However, “Arepas” filled with a “Lomo Saltado” is not hard to imagine.

“El

[2] “Arepas”

Photo from eater

Peruvian Cuisine is recognized as the world culinary destination. During the fourth edition of the international summit of gastronomy Madrid Fusion in 2006, the capital Lima was declared the capital of gastronomy in America. Moreover, Peru has been awarded the title of “Best Culinary Destination” at The World Travel Awards for 11 consecutive years since 2012 surpassing countries with well-known cuisines such as France, Italy, Mexico, India, and Thailand. This coincides with a new stage of prosperity and economic growth in which we have found tourist figures never seen before (almost 5 million in 2018).

So, why is Perú recognized as the world gastronomy destination? Well, Peruvian cuisine is one of the most varied in the world. It has pre-Inca, Inca, Spanish, Arab, African, French, Chinese-Cantonese, Japanese, and Italian influences. It brings together a great diversity of Peruvian creole mixtures along with cuisines from other continents.

The diversity of Peruvian cuisine is a product of the rich cultural diversity of Perú added to a privileged geography. The result is the delicious dishes that thousands of people enjoy every day.

A brief introduction to

PE RUVI AN CUISINE HISTORY

ISBN: 978-612-46548-7-9