FROM NECESSITY TO LUXURY: THE EVOLUTION OF FACE COVERINGS DURING COVID-19

UNDERCOVER

On 11 May 2021, one year on from when the UK Government first advised people to wear face coverings in enclosed public spaces, the Westminster Menswear Archive opened Undercover. This exhibition, curated by Professor Andrew Groves, Professor of Fashion Design, and Dr Danielle Sprecher, Menswear Curator, explored how masks evolved from being a functional PPE object in short supply, to becoming an everyday necessity worn by millions.

The original exhibition presented 52 unique face coverings, arranged in chronological order, examining how rapidly the fashion industry adapted production, manufacturing, and online marketing to meet changing consumer demands. While these masks appear to be non-gendered, their design, marketing, and wearing reveal long-running narratives within menswear concerned with ideas of protection, risk and masculinity. Here we display a selection of items from Undercover, offering a glimpse of the wider exhibition and an insight into the Westminster Menswear Archive.

1. SKELETON MASK BOOHOOMAN, APRIL 2020

BoohooMAN had previously sold face masks as part of their menswear range in 2019. However, when this skeleton mask was released in April 2020, they were accused of profiting at a time when the NHS was experiencing a PPE shortage and withdrew the masks from sale.

2. LIP-READING MASK BREATHE EASY, APRIL 2020

An early innovation was masks with a transparent panel, so they could be worn to facilitate lip-reading. The common assumption is that they are worn by people who are hearing impaired. However, the opposite is true: those who who are deaf need everyone else to wear this type of mask.

2

3. BLUE HERRINGBONE MASK HUNTSMAN, MAY 2020

The Savile Row bespoke tailor Huntsman produced one of the earliest luxury masks in response to COVID-19. Made from fine Swiss cotton manufactured by Alumo, the pleated mask is embroidered with the letter H in the upper left-hand corner. The ear loops are made of standard 5mm white elastic.

3

4. RAINBOW OF HOPE MASK PAUL & SHARK, MAY 2020

Paul & Shark converted their factory in Varese, Italy, to produce protective medical gowns for several local hospitals. They also manufactured face masks for civilian use, and from 19 May 2020 included a free face mask with every order from their Spring Summer 2020 collection.

4

5. OBEY MASK RETROBOMB, MAY 2020

This mask is not from the brand Obey, but an Etsy seller inspired by John Carpenter’s 1988 film They Live, where the ruling class manipulate people through subliminal messages. The film’s message struck a chord with consumers who bought these masks to express their objection to wearing a face covering.

5

6. POLICE FACE COVERING METROPOLITAN POLICE, MAY 2020

Police officers were issued with navy face coverings to wear on public duty when they were dealing with public order situations and were not able to socially distance. This mask was worn on Saturday 14 June while policing far-right protests in London.

6

7. BLACK LIVES MATTER MASK HOEZINE, JUNE 2020

On 25 May 2020, George Floyd was murdered by a police officer in America, sparking protests across the world. Bethan Dadson, the founder of HOEZINE magazine, designed these masks featuring a clenched fist and ‘BLACK LIVES MATTER’ to be worn at the London protests on 6 June 2020.

7

8. GUNNERS 1991/93 MASK THE BOTTOM HALF, JUNE 2020

The NHS tries to avoid becoming a political football, but these masks were designed to appeal equally to people’s passion for their favourite football team and as a way of openly expressing support for the NHS. The background is based on Arsenal FC’s ‘Bruised Banana’ away shirt worn between 1991-93.

8

9. SKULL AND CROSSBONES MASK NEW & LINGWOOD, JUNE 2020

This silk face mask features a grinning skull and crossbones motif. Traditionally this iconography has served as a memento mori, a symbolic reminder of the inevitability of death. Its use for a mask could be interpreted as the wearer wishing to appear unconcerned about the pandemic’s potential risks.

9

10. FLAME-RESISTANT MASK PROGARM, JULY 2020

ProGARM specialises in flameresistant and anti-static clothing for those employed in power generation, petrochemicals, industrial electricals, railways, and utilities. It produced this mask for electricians working on construction sites. Antiviral treatment was added to existing flame-resistant protection in response to the pandemic.

10

11. TRUE PUNK MASK CLIMATE REVOLUTION, JULY 2020

Given to Vivienne Westwood’s staff and acquaintances, this mask highlights the designer’s Climate Revolution campaign. Activists wore it for Julian Assange’s extradition hearing at the Old Bailey on 7 September 2020. This protest appeared in a short film released to promote Westwood’s Spring Summer 2021 collection.

11

12. LINEN COMMUTER MASK TURNBULL & ASSER, JULY 2020

Established in 1885, Turnbull & Asser is a bespoke shirtmaker on Jermyn Street, London. This summer-weight madras check mask came with its own complimentary wash bag, and was designed to coordinate with a matching short-sleeved shirt in the same linen fabric that retailed for £275.

12

13. VINTAGE CHECK COTTON MASK BURBERRY, OCTOBER 2020

Announced on 20 August 2020, this limited-edition face mask was not available until ten weeks later, and sold out on the same day. The mask retailed at £90 and was accompanied by a storage pouch and a 118-page booklet explaining how to use the mask.

13

14. ROYAL MAIL MASK DONGGUAN CITY DANDAN GARMENTS CO LTD, JANUARY 2021

In November 2020, Royal Mail made the wearing of a face mask mandatory for indoor work situations. This mask, with ‘Royal Mail Group’ stitched into the front, was distributed to employees in January 2021 but was quickly criticised due to the product’s labelling, which read “For fashion, dress up, party (non-medical)”.

14

15. LOZENGE PRINT REUSABLE MASK PARC, JULY 2020

This lozenge print mask is by Parc, constructed from waste production material and then lined with white cotton. It has neon green elastic ear loops and an integrated aluminium nose bar. After gifting samples to industry contacts in July, they were sold directly to consumers in October 2020.

15

WESTMINSTER MENSWEAR ARCHIVE

See more collections and exhibitions from the Westminster Menswear Archive at mensweararchive.com