NKNOW
issue 1
Making the UNKNOWN known.
CONTENTS
06 EXCUSE THE MESS
08 LONDON’S BEST KEPT SECRET 10 SHOWCASE 16 DISTORTION 22 LOOKING DIFFERENT 25 INDEPENDENCE 34 BA SURFACE DESIGN 36 BA ILLUSTRATION 38 OFF MODERN 40 WORTHLESS
43 CREATIVITY IN THE CREDIT CRUNCH 44 GIRL OF THE MONTH 46 YOYO’S 47 TOO TOUGH TO DANCE
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49 WHEN I WAS YOUNG
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hannah, 21
tivina, 21
cleo, 25
ithaka, 20
Photography may run through my blood, but the desire to pursue it further came from a lot of determination and passion. My interest in different cultures within society is reflected in my photographic practice. I have recently veered into journalism, and so creating this magazine has allowed me to showcase my visual talent as well as my writing abilities. I hope to carry what I’ve learnt from this experience onto future pursuits, whether I choose photography, journalism or combine the two.
So here is a bit about me. I love photography and food but not necessarily together. You are most likely to find me drifting off in my own little day dream, thinking about the random things in life, like candy floss‌.ummmm yum!
For a Bio of me, I am studying Photography at LCC. I think of myself as the weird one of the editorial team at UNKNOWN, and I have a habit of being the one guaranteed to be hungover too.
For me photography is about taking you somewhere through time. I try to create beautiful images with a sense of innocence and intensity. Images that have untold narratives and can take you somewhere else. I am always daydreaming and I feel that my work represents who I am. I mainly focus on portraiture and have a great interest in fashion photography. This magazine has allowed me to branch out in both sectors. I hope you enjoy.
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Hello all, Welcome to the first issue of Unknown magazine. The lovechild of four London-based photographers, Unknown is the successful outcome of our adventures papping local talent. Thoughtprovoking and genuine. What’s not to love about that? The magazine acts as a platform for new and emerging creative minds. It’s made by the young, for the young and showcases all the creators we think you should be looking out for. We wanted to create a piece that not only allows us to display the different facets of our photography, but also our other cultural interests. The centrefold is a group project based on the concept of independence. We’ve produced four shoots, which best represent our interpretation of this idea. Also featured in the magazine are: an interview with Matt Irwin; a shoot of designer Shivani’s final collection and the ‘Showcase’ piece profiling who we think have the potential to successfully establish themselves in the industry. Unknown’s reader is dynamic, engaged and interested in sourcing raw talent. At the heart of the magazine lies an optimistic spirit in an unsettled economic climate. In other words: less money, more innovation. The creative journey has been full of twists and turns, but we hope you have as much fun reading it, as we did making it. Enjoy, and prepare to be inspired. Hannah, Tivina, Ithaka and Cleo x
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Welcome to the Unkno
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own
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Illustration by Niccolo Stahl
Excuse the mess Cleo Leng decided to check out what people really meant when people say “excuse the mess” by going into people’s houses and seeing how they really live.
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Above: Sarah 24, Art Director Below: Liz 23, Art/Burlesque Performer
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Above: Bella 21, Graphics Student Below: Nick 28, Creative Director ITV
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London’s best kept secret It is 6:30 on a Sunday morning and I’m on my way to Chiswick car-boot sale. It happens the first Sunday of every month and it is one of the biggest in London. I would say that Chiswick is my favourite car-boot sale that I have been to. However Battersea and Deptford are good for a bargain too, they begin around 12:00 and finish around 3:00, perhaps better for those who prefer a later start and they are also on every week. All car-boot sales tend to be around 50p entrance fee; in some cases though the earlier you get there the higher the price is to enter. Car-boot sales are a great way of getting rid of old clothes or any junk you don’t want. It varies from £5 to £20 to set up a place and sell. Tips: always make sure you have lots of small change, bring a basket so you don’t have to carry lots of little bags and have an idea of what your looking for, there is so much to choose from. It is a perfect way to spend your day; enjoy!
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By Ithaka Roddam
Showcase
Each issue, Unknown magazine pulls out 4 highly creative individuals who have pushed boundaries to get where they are today. With an eclectic mix of fashion, art and design, these are the creators we should be looking out for.
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Words & Photography by Hannah Young & Ithaka Roddam
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With an art collection worth £25,000 including a Tracy Emin, and works by Banksy, the Chapman Brothers, a Goya etching, Hugo Wilson and new artist Oliver Cleg, at just the age of 21 Oliver Garland is on the fast track to being a major collector,“ I only collect works of art if I know the artist or they have inspired my work.”
Oliver Garland
In his second year at City and Guilds doing a fine art painting B.A, Garland’s work has also been in several exhibitions, which include a show in Kennington, The Crypt Gallery St Pancras and most recently another group show at The Vyner Street Gallery. Oliver entered Charles Saatchi’s Best of British competition half an hour before the deadline and got through to the last 10 having been interviewed and critiqued by Tracy Emin, Mat Collishaw, Frank Cohen and Kate Bush from the Barbican. With both his parents in the antique business, Garland is most influenced by traditionalism, he respects the values of classical painters and makes transcriptions from old master paintings such as Velasquez, and his dwarf paintings where he has taken away the dwarfs ‘ailments’. What we are left with are just portraits of their heads, he describes them as “looking really peculiar”. With the paintings on a round canvas Garland has also added a motor to the back of the image with a pin that goes though the centre, with these hallucinogenic “never ending spirals” the idea is that they draw your eyes deep into the portrait and warp the details of the image” His main inspiration comes from old Victorian myths and stories such as ‘The learned pig from London’ which permeates his most substantial body of work. www.olivergarland.co.uk
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By Ithaka Roddam
Ashley Williams
Ashley Williams is in her first year at Westminster on the B.A fashion course. She is 21 and already seems very sure of herself. From her style to her personality, Ashley is not afraid to do and wear what she wants. Her style is a mixture of 1990s grunge meets Chanel. “ I like to wear really high end designer which is beautifully made with something that is really crap, so crap that it’s kind of cool”. She says she never really dresses up or down, it just depends on how she feels. Despite Ashley’s carefree nature she is well driven to succeed and work hard. At the moment she is working on a tailoring project where she is designing a menswear jacket, inspired by 1990s grunge men and an image of Mark Arm from the band Green River, wearing a floral dress. However her main inspiration when designing women’s wear comes from the comic book character Tank Girl. “ I want to make clothes for women with really hot bods, that are strong and beautiful but look like they could beat someone up too, i.e. Tank Girl.”
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On the career front Ashley is on the road to success. She has worked as a dresser for B’Store for the last two seasons at fashion week, will be doing work experience with Jeremy Scott in L.A in the summer and is due to feature in the next issue of Love magazine on her designs and style. Katie Grand, the editor of Love and Pop magazine has asked her to make a dress especially for the next issue. Her aim in life is to be able to get to a stage in her career where she can do exactly what she wants, whether its making clothes, styling or running her own magazine. She admires people who have the courage to wear clothes that speak for themselves with a carefree attitude and Ashley applies this to her life-style as well. By Ithaka Roddam
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Charlie Crockett didn’t go to university to pursue the usual academic degree. Instead the Ladbroke Grove resident put all his ideas and imagination into his t-shirt label, A.IN.T London. The 25 year-old started the business in 2006 when he realised Britain wasn’t being represented enough in American and Japanese street wear. He answered his problems by printing t-shirts with graphics that he found interesting but represented the lost British culture that was lacking in the market. After a stint in Paris that went “belly up”, where Charlie met an art director who was putting on an “underground art club” for emerging artists, musicians and designers as a platform to get them exposure, he was left with huge debts to a friend who put up the money, as well as “all this clobber and professional photos we’d taken in order to sell to buyers and the industry”. It wasn’t until he followed the advice of a friend to set up a Myspace page, did things really take off. With a little help from his close friend Lily Allen, who put the label in her ‘top friends’, A.IN.T really “got ridiculous”; he teamed up with a distributor, pulled a deal with Maharushi and within 9 months was being sold at the Soho store. A.IN.T stands for Art In Transit; “it’s everything and nothing” as Charlie likes to explain, “It’s art in motion. I remember during A Levels someone told me anything could be art. The designs aren’t just suited to one genre like Hip Hop or Skate, they’re broad, which means the consumer buys into the design rather than the brand, which is something I feel strongly about.” The t-shirts are loosely based around forgotten culture and references. He’s printed Royal warrants and cut them up to make them “very tongue-in-cheek”, and next seasons collection is a response to the credit crunch pandemic. By looking at sexy pin-up girls “so glam in their twin-sets, pearls and lingerie we take it back to the real glamorous sh*t because who wants to promote recession all the time?” A.IN.T now has 20 stockists around the world, as well as many British university towns. The website is on its way (www. aintlondon.com) as well as Charlie’s hopes of becoming a global success.
By Hannah Young
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Charlie Crockett
Lucy Ophelia White Thomson
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Lucy Thomson is not your usual country bumpkin. The 21 year old is about to embark on a year out from BA Fashion at CSM. By specialising in fashion print, it’s no surprise she’s in the process of finalising her work placements at Balmain in Paris and Diane Von Furstenberg in NYC. Lucy creates “sophisticated and simple silhouettes with little colour in the print detail”. Her designs are classic and to the point, which reflects her personality too, “My pieces are straightforward, which mirrors how I dress. I can imagine my garments being worn by friends. They’re elegant but interesting designs.”
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Lucy’s roots in Hampshire inspired the featured piece: English gentlemen, eccentricity and tailoring. Looking at Tim Walker’s portraits and the referencing to riddles, maths and astronomy in Lewis Carol’s Alice in Wonderland, allowed her to create an overcoat inspired by the “bonkers English characters that love science but are too reclusive to speak to anyone!” Upon her return from expeditions in fashion houses around the world and completion of her final year, Lucy hopes to reside in London to kick start her first years in the industry, “My style is more suited to NYC, but I want to start off on familiar ground as I think its one of the best places to start your life in fashion.” The girl knows what she wants but who can blame her? At a time like this she’s got her feet firmly strutting in the right direction, to whichever city she decides on.
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By Hannah Young
distortion Distortion is Shivani’s end of year collection. Only in her first year at Demontford University her designs are already something to look out for.
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Photographs by: Tivina Elliott James Fashion by: Shivani Chavda
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Peroxide Blonde
Looking different...?
Becki,19
Celia, 21
Ashley, 16
Noeme, 20
Frith, 19
Tommy, 19
U, 21
Paul, 25
Louise, 21
Louis, 23
Nesma, 20
Dario, 19
Andreas, 19
Dan, 24
Joybi, 22
Stuart, 21
Lydia, 19
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Dr Martens
Caps
Piercings and Tattoos
Rayban Wayfarers
Sophie, 18
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Hannah, 19
Chen, 25
Biker Jackets
Ithaka, 19
Salina, 22
Jennifer, 20
Katie, 26
Misaku, 21
Barbara, 20
Vivian, 21
Emerson, 26
Jack, 23
Philip, 22
Ali, 24
Aaron, 19
Oscar, 21
Don, 22
Corin, 24
John, 20
Alberto, 20
Amar, 25
Vans
Skaters
Check Shirts
Interesting Glasses
Billy, 26
Donna, 18
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By Hannah Young
SUSAN WALKER Diamonds, Design Restoration
T: +44 (0) 20 7937 8901 E: susan@susanwalkerdesigns.com
RICHARD YOUNG GALLERY
4 Holland Street London W8 4LT t +44 (0) 20 7937 8911
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www.richardyounggallery.co.uk
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I have decided to look at performance art and have photographed a performance given by Bird La Bird. Her act consists of her being strip washed then dressed in front of an audience whilst she orders her “servants” to bring cakes to people. Her performance took inspiration from the French revolution and also had political undertones about class, wealth and abuse of power. She performs independently, only ever working with other people if she needs ‘live’ props. She will be performing in early July 2009 at the National Portrait Gallery for their ‘Gay Icons’ opening gala. Her piece will certainly be about art and definitely not one to be missed.
Pondering on the idea of independence and what it meant for me, I posed the question to a friend of mine Dean Parry. It was his answer that made all my thoughts fall into place “Independence for me is an exuberating feeling. It’s the feeling that I get when I skate. The feeling that for that split second you could almost defy gravity.” What I wanted to capture was this freedom, that nothing can hold you back...even if it is just for a few seconds in time.
I found it quite hard to define what independence meant to me. Is it about how independent I feel? How much independence I’ve got? Or how I achieved the independence I have today? I decided to investigate other people’s understanding of the term, and so photographed 8 people holding their answer to the question: When did you first feel independent? The answers are an eclectic mix of interpretation. I decided to photograph them standing on a box acting as a statue on a platform, as statues are generally considered to represent independence in some way.
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Hannah
Tivina
Cleo
Ithaka
Independence
I chose to photograph couples kissing as a way of expressing the concept of independence. I feel that this is when I first felt grown-up. I wanted to portray a sense of innocence and intensity with confidence.
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Tom & Lotte
By Ithaka Roddam
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Alice & Theo
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By Cleo Leng
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By Tivina Elliott James
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By Hannah Young
BA Surface Design Final Show, London College of Communication
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Above: Both Cheryl Sternstein Below: Alexander Crowley
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Above: Tamara Aira Below: Michail Jarovoj & Tamara Aira
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By Hannah Young
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BA Fashion Illustration
Final Show, Carnaby
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Location: 65-67 Broadwick Street, London W1
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09 London
The space will play host to a rolling programme of exhibitions and events showcasing London College of Fashion’s student and graduate work. From footwear to illustration, photography, clothing and accessories the space will be transformed and present new work every few weeks.
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By Ithaka Roddam
OFF ODER
Corsica studios, elephant and castle.
www.offmodern.com
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A celebration of Art, Music, Aesthetics & Culture. A new platform for artists wishing to exhibit outside the gallery system.
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Suren Seneviratne, speaking about ‘cultivating happiness’
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By Ithaka Roddam
Worthless It’s simple - bring in your worthless item, have it transformed into a work of art and pay how much you think it is worth **
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Inspired by the recession and compelled to create something positive, ‘Worthless’ is a live art installation that explores the value of material objects in the heart of Seven Dials. For one week only (22nd–29th May) members of the public were invited to bring their own ‘worthless’ items into the store, and have them transformed into pieces of art.
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The event was a homage to the institution that once was Woolworths, via ironic references throughout the installation space. A team of Pollock’s creators worked continually throughout the week transforming items into works of art. “The experience culminates for the customer, when on collection of their item, they will be asked to pay how much they feel the new item is worth.”
A pick’n’mix of ‘worthless to priceless’ creations was exhibited in the store from 1st – 5th June, with several items being auctioned at Octave Jazz Bar on behalf of the ‘MS Society’.
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By Ithaka Roddam
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A pick’n’mix of ‘worthless to priceless’ creations was exhibited in the store from 1st – 5th June, with several items being auctioned at Octave Jazz Bar on behalf of the ‘MS Society’.
By Ithaka Roddam
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By Cleo Leng
CREDIT CRUNCH
CREATIVITY IN THE
When the words ‘recession’ and ‘credit crunch’ become part of your daily vocabulary, you know there’s cause for concern. Financial instability and bleak outlooks have become the norm which, many fear, is leading to the emergence of a lost generation. Seeing as the number of unemployed college-leavers rises and the once bountiful graduate job-market dries up, concerns that this group of young graduates are wasting themselves in the waters of unemployment. But in these uncertain times, nothing is more welcome than a guide to being creative with your cash…
Food
Twitter=hope?
Cheap thrills
When it comes to cheap – even better, free – food, we’ve got you covered. Places like Borough Market can be a great source of free food if you play it right. Raid the food stalls and stick to the ones you like – but bear in mind, the most generous stalls tend to be the cheese stall, the sliced meat stall, the olive oil stall and the mushroom pate stall. Oh, and don’t forget the delicious free samples of chocolate brownie and banana cake from Flour Power City Bakery before making your exit. If you’re looking to buy food, do it towards the end of market day. Most places will practically give away their stuff and it won’t be hard to find some surprisingly good bargains.
The creative industry has been hit hard by recent events and being a graduate right now isn’t going to be the most fun. According to the Office for National Statistics, 70,000 graduates under the age of 24 did not find jobs last year. This equates to 11% of the graduate population between the ages of 18-24, and is an increase from 43,000 the previous year.
In a city like London there are plenty of cheap things to do, especially if you want to have access to arts and culture without busting the bank. Weekend Markets like UpMarket in Brick Lane have many free performances, art to buy sell, cheap eats and bagel shops such as Beigal Bake sell Bagels for 20p. For a less al fresco experience, head to indoor artistic havens such as the Photographers Gallery or The Tate Modern that waive the entry fee (Ed. note. Except for certain major exhibits.). Otherwise, many of the major London galleries have free sections or exhibits.
Travel Some people will want to take advantage of the current economic climate and go travelling. For starters, by being 26-or-under entitles you to generous travel discounts on the Eurostar (with deals like Paris for £49 among other international trips). Make sure to check out STA travel when planning a trip as they are a leading provider of discounted travel for students and young people. Or explore websites such as moneysavingexpert. com that are also invaluable sources of money-saving tips and advice.
But it’s not all bad. People are working together and collaborating more than ever before with group exhibitions happening all over. But these collaborations could not be possible without the miraculous powers of social networking. Every Friday morning, expect to find many Twitterers at the ICA café balancing casual coffee-drinking with a bit of a networking, because they know that it’s all about being in the right place at the right time. When you’re getting yourself out and about it’s not just about having a pretty myspace page or making yourself available on Facebook: it’s now all about Twitter. If you have a blog, link your blog posts to your tweets; make sure you have a blackberry or an iphone and tweet on the street. It’s all about getting noticed. With all the odds stacked against you as a young up-andcomer, resourcefulness is key. You have to be innovative with your cash, but more importantly, you shouldn’t be afraid of taking risks, after all in times like these, innovation keeps you ahead of the game.
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Girl of the Month
Zoe Zimmer is a photographer, working between London and Los Angeles. Zoe worked as a model for 6 years before deciding she was bored of being little more useful than a clothes hanger, and turned to fashion photography instead. In her spare time, she likes watching Law & Order with her boyfriend and drinking peppermint tea.
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Photographed by Hannah Young and Ithaka Roddam.
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YOYO’s
By Tivina Elliott James
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Every Thursday night at Notting Hill Arts Club
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By Hannah Young
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Illustration by Niccolo Stahl
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When I was Young Matt Irwin, studied fashion photography at the London College of Fashion, has worked for I-D, Russian Vogue, Dazed and Confused, and Uniqlo. He has had his own exhibitions too and likes to keep a blog.
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
lived...............................................in Devon. went..............................................fishing. kissed.............................................boys. loved..............................................my goldfish. ate.................................................clotted cream ice cream. drank..............................................cider. worked...........................................in a tractor factory. studied...........................................as little as possible. smoked...........................................lots of weed. listened to.......................................Saint Etienne. wore...............................................jeans and a t-shirt. voted for.........................................the weirdest looking one. had pictures on my wall of................Bjork. discovered the meaning of life when...watching the ITV Chart Show. looked like.......................................a twat. partied with.....................................my mates. hung out in......................................my mates. thought being cool meant..................acting like a twat. felt my family was............................totally mental. wish I’d never..................................opened that can of worms.
www.mattirwinlondon.blogspot.com
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By Cleo Leng
THANK YOUS UNKNOWN
THE DINER..............................for for supplying great food MAGGIE @ THE DINER.............with with a double G MATT IRWIN...........................for for a great insight into the grown-up world LAL HAY.................................for for being magic MATTHEW HAWKINS...............for for calling us the boring afternoon group OLDACRES PRINTERS...............for for the special discount SUE CLEMENCE.......................for for letting us talk about baked beans NICCOLO STAHL......................for for the illustrations SHIVANI CHAVDA....................for for her fashion collection CATHERINE DENNING...............for for braving braving the the leicester leicester cold cold MARY MARTHA EYO................also also for for braving braving the the cold cold TOM HUNTER..........................for for giving us a good mid-term LUCY THOMSON......................for for having the longest name in london London ASHLEY WILLIAMS..................keeping keeping it real CHARLIE CROCKETT................for for the free tea TABASCO SAUCE....................for for spicing up our lives BLACKBERRY MESSENGER.......keeping keeping us connected SAN PELLEGRINO.....................cleo’s cleo’s best friend CAPPUCINOS...........................keeping keeping hannah alive MAC.......................................everything everything SUSAN YOUNG........................for for the the top top shelf shelf space space RICHARD YOUNG.....................for for being a good dad RAPHAEL DE SOUZA................now now you’re you’re finally finally famous famous VICTORIA SMITH.....................for for being a great help GMAIL....................................for for being the chosen one YAHOO...................................second second best best. HOTMAIL................................runner runner up DEAN PARRY...........................for for skating skating in in the the rain rain LOTTE ANDERSEN....................modelling modelling and PR skills TOM HASTINGS.......................for for kissing ZAZOU RODDAM.....................for for being cute DIVO SOCK.............................for for helping Cleo cleo deal deal with with stroppy stroppy performers performers PHOTOSHOP...........................for for being there DANY TABET...........................for for being a great neighbour CAROLINE SHAPIRO.................for for being fabolous fabulous BRUCE FRASER........................for for flying alone SOPHIE GRIERSON...................for for posing last minute ZOE ZIMMER...........................cover for going girl back to your modelling days RAYA JALABI..........................proof proof reading read & press release EMMA O’ROURKE.....................for dealing with harassment BIRD LA BIRD............................ for body mind and soul ZIJI PUBLISHING.......................for being the biggest help
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PRINTERS Oldacres DESIGNER Laline Hay laline@hay.org
“Engaging, funny and tragic, it’s somEwhErE bEtwEEn chuck Palahniuk’s Choke and nick hornby’s About A boy.” Lauren Laverne
“A sexy and moving memoir...” Raymond Khoury
“This book seems to have bridged the gap between literature and the internet with all its secrets and lies” Nicolas Roeg
“A walk on the wild side of Hollywood - beautifully observed” Alan Yentob
Dave – ex-model, ex-porn star, bit-part commercials actor, aspiring writer, single
DaviD DarmstaeDter
father – struggles to make a living, take care of his 12-year-old son and fight off past temptations of sex and drug addiction. My Monster is a classic story of truth and beauty; a balance between comedy and tragedy, filled with humour, tears and above all, hope. An unforgettable journey with one of the ‘have-nots’ struggling to gain a foothold in the cut-throat world of the Hollywood film community. ISBN 978-0-9554051-2-9 Distributed by Turnaround +44 (0)20 8829 3000 email orders@turnaround-uk.com Published by Ziji Publishing +44 (0)7768 801070 info@zijipublishing.com
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Ziji_MY MONSTER POSTER.indd 1
12/6/09 16:19:00
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The UNKNOWN creative space... draw/write/express/create
UNKNOWN.MAG@GMAIL.COM