16 minute read
Pearl of the Bay
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Good food, good coffee and good vibes are top priorities for the new owners of Pāpāmoa’s award-winning Pearl Kitchen.
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Nestled in the heart of Coast Boulevard in Pāpāmoa Beach, Pearl Kitchen has become an iconic spot, with an amazing team behind it.
A relaxed place, with an ethos centred on delivering “banging coffee, delicious food and vibrant staff”, it's the perfect place to enjoy hearty food packed with ingredients by local growers and suppliers. And it’s also a “go to” on Friday night, offering drinks, tapas and gourmet pizza, to unwind after the working week.
How good does all that sound? It gets better. Pearl Kitchen is the winner of the most recent Bay Hospitality Awards’ Outstanding Café accolade.
To its many loyal followers, the award was no surprise. Just ask one customer who travels from Whakatāne and back specifically for breakfast Pearl Kitchen style. And, in the words of a local: “Gorgeous and well thought out design and layout, fabulous service, delicious and interesting food, perfect coffee, atmosphere, and diet choice sensitivity from staff.”
It's little wonder that Chanel and Justin Rawiri are immensely proud to now own this winning eatery. They’re quick to assure little will be changing, although, of course, a seasonally appropriate menu will be introduced in late October (with the old faves remaining).
“We couldn’t be more excited to join such a talented team and amazing community,” Justin says. “The key message from us is that we fell in love with Pearl Kitchen just the way it is, so aren’t planning to make any significant changes. It will be the same great team, relaxing vibe, scrumptious food and delicious coffee."
The whole team remains, led by Nigel Reid and Kirsty Moore. Along with key staff David Stuart and Tanesha Horsburgh, all were instrumental in the café’s award-winning success, and are celebrated members of the Pearl Kitchen team with serious credentials, Justin praises.
Chef Nigel Reid started his career as protégé of top New Zealand chef Simon Gault. After a seven-year stint overseas, Nigel returned to become Simon's right-hand man as group head chef for the Nourish Group. Cooking in London for a group of restaurants (under the Cubitt House umbrella), he had the opportunity to serve some of the world's elite and even some royals. Back in New Zealand he’s played an integral part in setting up top eateries. He includes Pearl Kitchen on that list.
Nigel, who loves people who love food, can be found front and centre in Pearl's open kitchen warmly welcoming its patrons each day. His recipes are inspired by travel, family and the seasons.
“Creating and leading with passion, I share my own brand of honest and exciting cookery,” he says.
Front-of-house manager Kirsty Moore hails from Edinburgh, Scotland. Armed with a degree in History
of Art and Design and a Master’s degree in marketing, she arrived in New Zealand six years ago seeking a complete lifestyle change after working as a marketing manager. Queenstown beckoned and she managed Mrs Ferg (part of the famous Fergburger empire) there. Tauranga has been home for two years. There’s much to love about working at Pearl Kitchen, she says, such as the great work-life balance, family culture, love for customers, fun environment and delicious food.
David Stuart also hails from Edinburgh and happens to be engaged to Kirsty. David studied Culinary Arts and Food Preparation and worked as a chef in Vietnam, then in Melbourne, and also at an award-winning cocktail bar (with a focus on small bites) in Edinburgh. Add to that five years clocked up as head chef of a Mexican restaurant in Queenstown, before moving to Pearl Kitchen as sous chef. His experience and knowledge of Asian-style dishes influences Pearl Kitchen’s much-enjoyed Friday night tapas menu.
Rosario Ross Murro identified his passion for pizza at an early age – he began work as a pizza chef at 14! From Puglia, Italy (a region known for its great food and beaches), Rosario makes a true Italian-style pizza with hand-stretched sourdough and fresh ingredients, cooked in Pearl Kitchen’s wood-fired oven. He has been in New Zealand for four years, working in Melbourne beforehand.
Love a good cocktail? If yes, then chances are you may already know of Tanesha Horsburgh. This Pāpāmoa local studied Food and Beverage Hotel Management before finding her niche in hospitality. She moved from Auckland to help open Pearl Kitchen, where she now looks after the bar and drinks menu. Her Friday night cocktail specials are a highlight of the week for many customers.
As for new owners, Chanel and Justin, they’re proud to have such an excellent team of 17, and excited to be part of the greater Pearl Kitchen community. The couple moved from Auckland with their young apprentices – Charlotte (4) and Georgia (2.5) – to a region that was already familiar. Justin grew up in Tauranga, and both have family here.
“We are both foodies and we bought Pearl Kitchen because we love it," says Chanel. "We look forward to becoming part of such a great community."
Pearl Kitchen, 20 Coast Boulevard Open: Saturday – Thursday 8am–2pm Friday 8am–8pm (Happy Hour 4pm-6pm)
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PLANTBASED PLEASERS
Raglan local Emma Galloway shares some of her most popular recipes from her latest cookbook, Every Day.
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Emma Galloway’s website, My Darling Lemon Thyme, is responsible for introducing what were once alternative ingredients into many Kiwi homes. These gluten-free, vegan recipes from Every Day are so packed with delicious flavour and nutrition, they might even convince the most ardent meat eater to become flexitarian. From a spicy Vietnamese noodle dish and protein-packed burgers, to the flavourful Middle Eastern pilaf and chocolate-topped cheesecake bars, these recipes will cater to many requisites – but mainly to great taste.
Tempeh + mushroom burgers with smashed avocadoINGREDIENTS
These burger patties keep well in the fridge for a couple of days – chill for at least 30 minutes before cooking because this helps keep them together. Store-bought gluten-free bread has come a long way and good gluten-free burger buns are now readily available.
Makes 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan
INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 250g button mushrooms, trimmed and finely chopped 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped 1 tsp paprika 250g packet tempeh, roughly chopped 30g gluten-free breadcrumbs Fine salt and freshly ground black pepper Olive oil, to cook 4 gluten-free burger buns, sliced in half 1 large ripe avocado, smashed in a bowl with a little lemon juice, salt and pepper Good-quality mayonnaise (vegan or regular), pesto, lettuce or microgreens, red onion, tomato relish and avocado, to serve
METHOD
1. Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add oil and onion and cook, stirring often, for 4–5 minutes or until tender and golden. Add garlic, finely chopped mushroom and thyme and cook, stirring often, for a good 5–8 minutes or more, until the mushrooms have released their juices and these have evaporated, so they’re almost dry, tender and golden (this is important because you don’t want any excess moisture or your patties won’t hold together). Add paprika and cook for a further 20–30 seconds. 2. Transfer to a food processor, add tempeh and breadcrumbs and pulse until finely ground. Season with salt and pepper. Shape into 4 large patties, cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days if preparing ahead of time. 3. If you don’t have a food processor, finely chop the tempeh, add onion mixture and breadcrumbs then, using your hands, scrunch everything together until it holds its shape. Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add a splash of olive oil and cook the patties for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until golden. Grill buns on the cut side until golden. 4. Spread a little mayonnaise and pesto onto the base of each burger bun, then add a patty, a few microgreens or lettuce, some onion slices or pickled red onions. Top with smashed avocado and spread a little relish on the cut side of the top bun and place over. Note: The patties can be frozen for up to 3 months – just defrost in the fridge overnight before using.
Black pepper tofu bún cha
Bún cha is a grilled pork and noodle dish from Hanoi, Vietnam, served with piles of herbs and the famous nuoc mam cham dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime/vinegar, sugar, chilli and garlic. Here’s a vegan take, with peppery tofu and a soy sauce-based version of nuoc mam cham, served with tasty sweet and sour Vietnamese pickles which you can make 4 to 5 days in advance and store in the fridge.
Serves 3–4 | Gluten-free | Vegan
INGREDIENTS
DRESSING 2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce 2 tbsp brown/white rice vinegar 2 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped (de-seed for less heat) 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
BLACK PEPPER TOFU Coconut or olive oil 300g packet firm tofu, cubed 2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce 1 tbsp pure maple syrup or golden caster sugar 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper Rice vermicelli, cooked according to packet instructions or soaked in boiling water for 10–15 minutes, then drained Baby cos lettuce, sliced Cucumber + mint leaves to serve
METHOD
1. To make the dressing, combine dressing ingredients in a small jar and shake well. 2. To make the black pepper tofu, heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add a little oil and pan-fry tofu until golden on all sides. Reduce heat and add soy sauce, maple syrup and black pepper. Continue to cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens and the tofu is golden and coated. 3. To serve, arrange rice vermicelli in bowls, top with black pepper tofu, arrange a handful of lettuce leaves, some sliced cucumber and mint leaves in each bowl and drizzle a little dressing over the top. CARROT + DAIKON PICKLES
INGREDIENTS
100ml boiling water 65g (⅓ cup) golden caster sugar ½ tsp fine salt 100ml brown/white rice vinegar 1 carrot, finely shredded (use a mandolin or finely slice with a knife) 1 cup finely shredded daikon (approx ¼ of a large daikon)
METHOD
1. To make the pickles, combine boiling water, sugar and salt in a bowl then stir until dissolved. 2. Add vinegar and set aside to cool completely, before adding the grated carrot and daikon. 3. Mix well and set aside for at least 30 minutes.
Tomato pilaf with black lentils and caramelised onion
This delicious and nutritious almostone-pan-meal was inspired by Turkish tomato pilaf and Mujadara, a tasty combination of rice, lentils and onions found throughout the Middle East. This dish manages to extract every ounce of flavour from just a handful of simple ingredients. Use puy-style or brown lentils in place of black lentils, if you prefer
Serves 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan
INGREDIENTS
115g black (beluga) lentils, rinsed well 60ml olive oil 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 250g vine or cherry tomatoes, finely chopped 340g white basmati rice, rinsed and drained well 750ml water Coriander leaves, roughly chopped, to serve Caramelised onions 2 tbsp olive oil 3 onions, finely sliced Fine salt, to taste
METHOD
1. Place lentils into a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and set aside. 2. Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add oil and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, before adding chopped tomato. Cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes, or until soft and juicy. Add rice and stir then add water and a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside with the lid on for a further 10 minutes. 3. To make the caramelised onions, as soon as your rice is happily cooking away, heat oil in a large heavybased frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, for 20–25 minutes or until deeply golden, taking care in the final 5–10 minutes to ensure the bottom doesn’t catch and burn. Season with salt. These can be prepared in advance and will store in a glass jar in the fridge for up to 3 days. 4. When the rice is cooked, remove the lid, stir through lentils, adjust seasoning if needed and serve topped with caramelised onions and chopped coriander.
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Cardamom + dark chocolate “cheesecake” bars
A great make-ahead dessert as it stores 4–5 days in the fridge. Use freshly ground cardamom seeds for fuller flavour but cardamom spice works fine, too. Start this recipe the night before to soak the cashews. Tip: Cashew pieces are cheaper than whole ones and give the same result. Makes 12–14 slices | Gluten-free | Vegan
INGREDIENTS
BASE
240g dried pitted dates, roughly chopped 100g raw almonds 1 tbsp virgin coconut oil, melted
FILLING 375g raw cashew nuts, soaked overnight in cold water and drained well 185ml virgin coconut oil, melted 125ml freshly squeezed lemon juice 125ml pure maple syrup 2 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp fine salt 2 tsp ground cardamom
CHOCOLATE TOPPING 85g dairy-free dark chocolate, roughly chopped 60ml coconut milk 2 tbsp pure maple/brown rice syrup
METHOD
1. Soak the cashews overnight. 2. To make the cheesecake base, line a 28cm x 18cm slice tin with baking paper, overlapping the sides by 2cm. Put the pitted dates, almonds and melted coconut oil into a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Press the mixture into the tin, using the back of a spoon to pack it in firmly. 3. To make the filling, place all the filling ingredients into a highpowered blender and blend on high until smooth. If you don’t have a high-powered blender, finely grind the cardamom seeds in a mortar and pestle first, before adding to the blender. Pour the mixture over the base and smooth the top. Allow to set in the fridge for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight. 4. To make the chocolate topping, place the dark chocolate into a small heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of boiling water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. Add the coconut milk and the maple/brown rice syrup and heat gently until melted. If it starts to look a little split (this can happen because of the coconut milk), whisk to bring it back together into a smooth sauce. When just melted, remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly, before spreading over the cheesecake. Return to the fridge until set. Once set, slice into 12–14 bars, using a sharp knife warmed under running hot water.
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Every Day by Emma Galloway, published by HarperCollins, is out now and you can win a copy for yourself! Keep an eye on our socials by following: unomagnz | unomagnz
KAIMOANA KINDNESS
Sustainably farmed local mussels and oysters are not only delicious, they’re eco-friendly too.
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New Zealand shellfish is some of the best in the world. Relaxing on the beach with a good old mussel fritter has to be the quintessential Kiwi summer experience. But there’s more to its goodness than the taste; shellfish farmed in Aotearoa has now been proven to be extra kind to our environment too.
An in-depth look into New Zealand-farmed shellfish found it has among the lowest carbon footprint of any animal protein, with mussels similar to that of plant-based favourite tofu. Which means that while most plant-based proteins are perfect for low-impact eating, those of us not totally ready for the vegetarian life can enjoy shellfish guilt free.
The sustainability team at thinkstep-anz analysed the life cycle of farmed mussels and oysters and found that these delicious morsels are playing ball when it comes to being eco-friendly. Not only do they have a low carbon footprint, but their farming also helps the environment in myriad ways.
Mussels and oysters are filter feeders, so they get all their nutrients from the water while purifying it around them. Mussel and oyster farms also act as reefs as they follow longlines below the water, meaning sea life and marine life are given additional habitat, food and roosting hotspots.
TV food personality Ganesh Raj recently set out on an adventure around the country for the Best Foods Foodie Roadie and discovered the special growers, farmers and producers around Aotearoa.
Visiting James Marine Mussels in the Coromandel, to barge green-lipped mussels, Ganesh was blown away by the thoughtful process behind farming these tasty morsels. Kicking off at the crack of dawn, trailing along the clear waters, and finding fresh and plentiful kaimoana proved to be not such a bad day at the office!
Closer to home, in the Eastern Bay of Plenty, the mussels from Whakatōhea Mussel Farm are as extraordinary as their homeland. Off the coastline of Ōpōtiki, the farm is located under crystal clear blue waters.
Whakatōhea Mussel Farm is a testament to the people of Bay of Plenty. The local iwi envisioned a mussel farm would drum up employment and income for whanau and the local community, and now they’re living the dream.
Eating local is a great way to support our producers and keep production cycles and sustainability practices in check. Check out the rest of the Best Foods Foodie Roadie for more epic spots around Aotearoa with fresh flavours and Ganesh Raj’s recipes to match. Hint: The mussel fritters with sweet chilli mayo are moreish in the best way!
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Ganesh and Peter from James Marine in the Coromandel barged green-lipped mussels at dawn.