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TAILORING JOURNAL Spring / Summer 2013
Tailoring Journal
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the Ben Sherman Tailoring Journal – a newspaper bringing together all that is great about tailoring. Buying a suit is a big decision, and you need to be sure that you’re choosing the right style and fit. Within these pages we will guide you through the process, advising you on what you need to be looking for when making that all important sartorial purchase.
BEN SHERMAN TIMELINE As a man with an enduring quest for the new and the next, Ben Sherman was left underwhelmed by the menswear offering of 1960s Britain. Having spent much of the past two decades raising a family in North America, he’d become accustomed to the fashions of the Ivy League and in particular to the shirts worn by polo players of the time who used button-downs to keep their collars in place whilst riding.
1963
In 1963 he returned to England with the idea of creating a shirt. Inspired by his father-in-law’s work as a tailor and drawing inspiration from the preppy styles of collegiate America, he set about creating his own. Using the finest cottons available, adding a softer roll to the collar, smaller buttons, the now infamous box-pleat and hang-loop at the back, an icon was born. The five decades since have seen Ben Sherman shirts adorn the backs of almost every music-led style culture from the mods of the Sixties, via ska, Two Tone and Britpop to the Modernists of today. We take a look back at half a century of a Heritage of Modernism.
Ben Sherman, born Arthur Ben Sugarman, returned to his native Brighton from the USA where he had been working in the garment industry and decided to launch his own range of shirts. (4)
T he fi v e decades since ha v e seen B en S herman shirts adorn the backs of almost e v ery music - led style culture
Iconic mod band The Who formed. On May 18 and 19 between Brighton and Hastings mods fight rockers at the seaside, an episode later dubbed “The Second Battle of Hastings”. (5)
1964
1970
Sixties – era of Teddy Boys and Mods
The answers to what makes Ben Sherman tailoring unique are right here inside, and we also show you everything else you need to know about suiting including the best way to accessorise each style of suit, with a round up of this season’s must-have accessories. Once you’ve finished being educated in the tailoring department we talk exclusively to our favourite up-and-coming musicians, plus we interview six of the finest movers and shakers in London to find out what influences their unique styles. Our Grooming Guide walks you through how to wet shave correctly and how to look after your beard with our friends from Sharps Barber and Shop. Leaving no stone unturned we look at which shirt works best with your suit, what your tie knot says about you and we present you with a definitive guide to shirt collars. Once you’re tailored to perfection we share with you our favourite go-to places in three of the greatest cities in the world, London, Berlin and New York.
1973
Paul Weller formed The Jam with his school friend Steve Brookes. Weller was inspired by Otis Redding, Dr Feelgood and The Who in equal measure.
1972
Ben Sherman famously ordered a million yards of oxford cloth, a quarter of a million of gingham fabric and a quarter of a million yards of colourful striped material from his American fabric mill, such was the popularity of his growing brand.
Seventies – The height of the Mod Era The Wigan Casino, an epicentre for mod’s sister movement, Northern Soul, opened. (1)
LATE 1970S
1979
The first major mod revival saw thousands attend scooter rallies on the Isle of Wight and in Scarborough in Yorkshire.
Eighties – Ska and 2 Tone Rule
1985
We hope that you enjoy discovering more about Ben Sherman tailoring inside.
The record label 2 Tone provided an alternative to “plastic pop” and its roster included The Selecter, The Specials and The Bodysnatchers. British ska emerged as another musical genre accompanied by a stylish look and its protagonists adopted Ben Sherman as part of their uniform.
As part of the punk and post-punk movement, a skinhead revival occurred. (2) Many female skinheads opted for feather cuts – short on the crown, with a fringe.
Gary Kingsnorth
1995
The release of Quadrophenia, the cult film starring Phil Daniels and Leslie Ash, depicting the scenes of 1960s mod life.
1980
Oasis won Best British Newcomer at the Brit Awards. In August Blur release “Country House” on the same day that Oasis release “Roll With It” – dubbed “The battle of Britpop” and reported on the BBC 10 o’ clock News. Both sides wear Ben Sherman attire – button down shirts and Harrington jackets.
2002
Nineties – Britpop Blasts Off
Editor
2006
2004
Ben Sherman partnered with Team GB as an official sponsor of the Olympic squad in Greece.
Ben Sherman Carnaby Street store opens.
Noughties – A New Era of Ben Sherman This is England by Shane Meadows is released. A hard-edged coming-of-age film, with a hyper-stylised skinhead aesthetic, starring a young Thomas Turgoose in a checked Ben Sherman shirt with braces and Dr Martens boots.
CONTENTS Inside the Ben Sherman Tailoring Journal:
2008
Paul Weller designed a limited-edition range of shirts based on his favourite “Bennies” of the Sixties.
To celebrate our 50th anniversary, Ben Sherman: 50 Years of British Style by Josh Sims, £30, was published on 7 February. (3)
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Ben Sherman Timeline
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Suit Guide
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Interview: Night Works
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Interview: Ghostpoet
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Know Your Collar / Interview: Flume
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Tailored to Perfection: Ben Sherman Tailoring SS13
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Accessories Highlights
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Suit Tips / Tie Knots
2011
The documentary Casuals was released – it tells the oft-overlooked story of how football fans in the Eighties and Nineties invented their own fashion movement.
2013
Grooming / Facial Hair Masterclass
A Word to the Wise City Guides 3
E ditorial C ontributor S Gary Harvey Naomi Attwood Jack Moss Belinda Morris
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Ian Carrington Maya Glaser Olly Figg
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1 Northern Soul dancers at Wigan Casino, mid 1970s Photograph: Johnston Press 2 Skinheads, London 1979 Photograph: Derek Ridgers in the 60s 5 Mods showing Andy Summers and members of the band Zoot Money, outside the Flamingo Club, London 1964
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Ben Sherman: 50 Years of British Style Culture by Josh Sims
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Sara Jarmon’s grandmother on a day trip to France with her colleagues who were all machinists for Ben Sherman
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Tailoring Journal
SUIT GUIDE
There are a lot of preconceived notions about the suit – it’s the uniform for stuffy corporate headquarters, it’s only good for a one-time wedding wear. It’s time to forget all that. The suit is having a renaissance. There is a new breed of suit wearers walking our city’s streets. Harking back to the heyday of tailoring, the sixties, suits are no longer just for the office. They are for day-to-day, for going out, for living life. These suits aren’t about strict conventions, or rules, but instead can be dressed up or down, worn with T-shirts or shirts, brogues or loafers. It’s about wearing tailoring with your own unique stamp. But purchasing a suit can often be a troublesome affair, especially for the first-time suit buyer. But it needn’t be. Here’s our advice for adding the perfect suit to your wardrobe.
S tyle and fit At Ben Sherman, we have two distinct fits, the Kings and the Camden – refined to straddle both our heritage and forward-thinking outlook. The Camden is our more directional style and remains inspired by our Mod foundations. With a tailored, skinny fit, slim lapels and a tonal lining this ultra-sharp silhouette aligns perfectly with new trends in tailoring. For those who want a suit that is a little more relaxed, but just as sharp, our Kings suit is cut with a slim leg and a peak or notch lapel. Suitable for a slightly wider shape, the Kings will give you a strong, classic look. In terms of style, a two-buttoned suit is generally the most wearable and tends to be the accepted standard. However, for a dinner jacket, or formal occasion, a one-button suit can look clean and refined. Sales advisors at Ben Sherman are always on hand to offer more specific fit advice – all our suits are sold as separates to ensure you have the correct fit both on top and bottom.
Holger Auffenberg, Ben Sherman Tailoring Designer and Leon Soulsby, International Tailoring Development
INVESTMENT
If that summed up your first album, can we expect more of the same from the forthcoming record or something different? With the first record, I made it on my own in my bedroom, it was a process of trial and error as I was making music as a hobby. It was experimental.
There’s no shying away from the fact that the suit is probably going to be the most expensive item in your wardrobe. But if you get it right, you will have a piece for life with enough wearability to make it a true investment. From the outset, ask yourself what you need the suit for. For a day-to-day suit think of the other items in your wardrobe – shoes, shirts – and choose a colour or fabric that will have the versatility to slot in with your other pieces. But remember to choose something that excites you, something that you will be proud to wear more than once.
remember to choose something that e x cites you , something that you will be proud to wear more than once
C olour and fabric Before fit, fabric or even style, first impressions are made by colour. It remains a very personal choice – some people naturally suit rich, dark colours, while others will look best in lighter or more vibrant tones. Navy is an easy colour for a first suit – it can be worn for a wide spectrum of occasions, grey is also regaining popularity and looks luxurious in Ben Sherman’s Italian-wool flannel. For those who are after something a little different, try our tweed suits in green or claret, made for us at the iconic Abraham Moon Mill in Yorkshire. Thrown together with an unbuttoned Oxford shirt, tweed can be surprisingly casual.
View the tailoring collection at bensherman.com/tailoring
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For the next one I’ve been lucky enough to make it “professionally” so I’ve been allowed to immerse myself in music and use a professional studio. I’ve worked with a producer called Richard Formby, it’s come out how I wanted it come out – so I’m happy with the end result.
F au x pas There are a few common faux pas that are easy to fall into when purchasing a suit. The first is not to try on the suit before taking it home. A seasoned suit buyer will often make the mistake of thinking that he is always a particular size. Each store has its own way of cutting suits, and our bodies often change more substantially than we might think, or admit. A great suit is finished off with complementary accessories, don’t worry about sticking to conventions when working with a dress code. So long as the suit is well-cut, fits perfectly and is worn with the right accessories, it will transcend the all too narrow categories of “smart” or “smart casual”. Finally, the greatest faux pas you can commit is to feel uncomfortable. Wear your suit with pride, make it personal and be excited to wear it each day – because there is nothing more satisfying than the perfect suit.
Was it harder to find inspiration without having a day job and something to rail against? Yes it was, in a strange way. Or it was at first although I cracked it in the end. When I had to deal with the nine to five, it meant I was highly motivated, as I wanted to get out of a job I didn’t want to do, and music was my route out, so it was a mental discipline and I had great focus because I could only do it in the evenings.
Photography by Maya Glaser
GHOSTPOET Obaro Ejimiwe, better known as Ghostpoet, is a London-born songwriter-performer. His distinctive and forward-thinking debut album, ‘Peanut Butter Blues & Melancholy Jam’, was rewarded with a Mercury Prize nomination in 2011. He has followed it up with ‘Some Say I So I Say Light’ which will be released later this summer. Your music has been described as a mix of gritty, cobbled-together, lo-fi beats and intoxicatingly drawled, unconformist rhymes. Firstly I’d like to thank the person who said that [it was Dummy magazine]. How would you describe it? It couldn’t be that because that would mean I would think of myself as a lot more intelligent than I am. I would only be able to express it something like this: Sound + Mumbling = Peanut Butter Blues.
Then when I was free to make music at any time I had to discipline myself to get it done. I would describe the music as still being me, but it’s more musically mature – an evolution and it’s still about the world around me. I’m voyeuristic – and I get inspiration from everything around me, anything from going to the supermarket to walking down the street could give me an idea for a lyric. Where in the world is your favourite place to perform? I haven’t got a favourite place, it’d be so hard to choose just one. Though I would say Croatia at the Soundwave Festival was a particularly good experience. With sunshine, beautiful scenery and great people, you couldn’t ask for much more. The local food was so delicious – the fish we ate there is still a vivid memory now. What music are you into yourself? All music. Everything. At all times. So it’s impossible to narrow it down for you any more than that.
Can you recommend us some music we might not have heard of? Art Blakey, who was a jazz drummer. He was around for ages and was one of the truly great drummers of all time. Do you put a lot of thought into your outfits? How do you decide what to wear? I don’t work with a stylist I just put on clothes – and depending on the weather I just put things on. I don’t put major thought into it, but I think about it idly, while I’m doing other things so when I need to get dressed I already know what it is I want to wear. I do like the idea of looking good, it’s important to present yourself in a certain way but it’s not good to be too obsessed with it. I like well-cut clothes like Ben Sherman for instance. To me, Ben Sherman means Britishness and attention to detail. And I like the idea of wearing something representing the country that I’m from.
B en S herman means B ritishness and attention to detail . A nd I like the idea of wearing something representing the country that I ’ m from Whose wardrobe would you most like to raid? I’m happy with my own. What are you looking forward to most in 2013? A lot of things. Mount Kimbie’s album, James Blake’s album, Primal Scream and Tricky’s albums – all those and more. What would you put in your ultimate sandwich? I don’t eat sandwiches. Although I am into food and cooking. I like trying out new recipes rather than repeating things. After all, variety is the spice of life.
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TAILORED TO PERFECTION Our suits come in two unique styles - the Camden and the King. Here we celebrate what makes Ben Sherman tailoring special in our spring/summer fashion shoot. Creative Direction Gary Harvey / Photographer Rosie Blake / Hair & Grooming Gow Tanaka / Model Jack O’Hara @ Models1 Photographer’s Assistant Jonathan Birch / Stylist’s Assistant Eve Boxhall / Video Nayla El Solh / Shot at iHeart studios
Watch the behind the scenes video of the shoot at: bensherman.com/tailoring/behind-the-scenes
(Opposite left) Shirt: MA08040-D69-NO, £55 / Suit Jacket: MF08054J, Trousers: MG08054T, £450 (for suit) / Shoes: LM00646, £225 / Socks: LM00641-05, £15 / Tie: LM00495-D92-NO, £35 / Bag: MH00200, £150 (This page, top) T-shirt: MB00194-C09, £50 / Suit Jacket: MF08051J, Shorts: MG08051T, £450 (for suit) / Shoes: LM00646-04-NO, £225 (This page, bottom) Shirt: MA00553-D92, £60 / Suit Jacket: MF08055J-41G, £195 / Trousers: MG08055T-41G, £100 / Shoes: LM00579, £80 / Socks: LM00642, £15 / Belt: MH00187, £35 / Hat: MJ00093-12-NO, £60 / Scarf: LM00634, £45
Tailoring Journal
Shirt: MA00548-D88-MF1, £55 / Blazer: MF08050J-REG-41G, £250 / Jeans: MG00600-A40, £125 / Braces: Heritage MH00168-352-NO, £30 / Shoes: LM00577, £80 / Socks: 5051755910026, £15
(Opposite left) Shirt: MA08057-A80-NO, £95 / Suit Jacket: MF08068J-B90, £225 / Waistcoat: MF08068W-B90-NO, £65 / Trousers: MG08068T-B90, £125 / Shoes: LM00575, £80 / Socks: LM00640-33, £15 / Bow Tie: LM00625-67, £25 (This page, top) Shirt: MA00548-D78MF1, £55 / Suit Jacket: MF08041J-REG-353, £225 / Trousers: MG08041T-353, £125 / Shoes: LM00590-05-NO, £85 / Tie: LM00493-D92-NO, £35 (This page, bottom) Shirt: MA08057-41G-NO, £95 / Suit Jacket: MF08045J, £350 / Waistcoat: MF00245-D56, £85 / Chinos: MG00902-G45, £75 / Shoes: LM00644-ZCD-NO, £250 / Socks: LM00640, £15 / Bow Tie: LM0049 3-D92-NO, £35
Tailoring Journal
Shirt: MA08044-A47, £65 / Suit Jacket: MF08084J-D34, £295 / Waistcoat: MF08085W-B53, £95 / Trousers: MG08085T-B53, £155 / Shoes: LM00649-BNT-NO, £275 / Socks: LM00642, £15 / Belt: MH00238-38-NO, £55 / Tie: LM00496-D92-NO, £35 / Guitar Case: MH00245-07-NO, £275
Tailoring Journal
A C C E S S O R I es highlights
SUIT TIPS
They say accessories maketh the man and to make things a little easier we have chosen a few of our accessories which will work well with any of our suits. We’ve covered everything from shoes, ties and braces to show how crucial those all-important finishing touches can be.
Top ten tips on how to look after your suit
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1 Always question what your suit is for. If it is for business or office use, it’s best to keep the palette more neutral and the fit more classic for maximum lifespan. If you are buying it for a wedding or event and are only going to wear it once, choose a lower price point.
7 Trousers should sit on the waist, and skim the top of the shoe – make sure they aren’t either too baggy or tight over the thigh. When trying on your suit, walk around, sit down – see how it feels.
In terms of vents, there are single and double options. Double vents are more flattering and offer a greater range of movement, so again have a walk around in your suit and see which works best for you.
Keep it Fresh 1 Look after your suit to ensure it stays crisp and retains its fit. Store on thick, wooden hangers to allow the shoulder pads to keep their shape.
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Make sure the suit fits around the shoulders – it is often the place where most men get it wrong. Shoulder pads should end at the edge of your shoulders – not before or after, which will immediately make the suit look ill fitting. 2
In terms of sleeve length, sleeves should show a couple of centimetres of shirt. 3
4 For body length, shorter jacket lengths are becoming more fashionable, but if you are wider, go for a slightly longer style.
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5 Generally, a two-piece tends to be the most wearable option. However, in recent years, a waistcoat can add a heritage feel and is fitting for more formal occasions.
A beautiful lining is a private joy – at Ben Sherman we use a specially designed tonal jacquard version of our iconic gingham check as well as small colour accents for that extra little ‘pop’. 6
9 At Ben Sherman our suits tend to have two front pockets and a chest pocket, suitable for a pocket square. However, on some styles, extra pockets give the suit a traditional British feel. 10 A peak lapel has traditionally been associated with double-breasted styles and eveningwear. For a day to-day suit, a notch lapel is sharp, modern and subtle. For evening wear, you could also go for a shawl collar, which has become increasingly favoured by tailoring aesthetes.
Try not to over-dry clean. The chemicals can harm the suit’s fabrics and make them lose their lustre. Unless it is overly dirty, often twice a year will be enough. 2
Store in a garment bag when travelling. Throw in a lint roller to ensure any stray hairs can be quickly removed. 3
4 Remove from the garment bag when it’s in your wardrobe – a great suit should be allowed to breathe. 5 Steam your suit if creased. This can be done with an iron, but take it to a local dry cleaner to get it pressed properly and safely.
F or a day - to - day suit , a notch lapel is sharp , modern and subtle
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T ie K nots
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The 1960s saw tailoring reinvent itself - and much of this was down to The Beatles. Advocating the skinny tie, The Beatles shunned the conservatism of the 1950s. It is why the skinny tie remains popular - it still carries that air of rebellion, eschewing stuffy, traditional style. 1960s
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The 1970s was bright, garish and larger than life - and ties followed suit. The gluttonous kipper tie couldn’t have been further from its predecessor - with a loose tie knot and a width that covered a large portion of the chest, this is a style best left to David Bowie or fancy dress parties. 1970s
Think Michael Douglas in Wall Street, or Christian Bale in American Psycho - the 1980s was all about power. In a return to more conservative tailoring, ties followed suit. Drastically slimmed down, patterns more subtle and colours bold but refined - the 1980s tie was surprisingly stylish. 1980s
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Chelsea Boot, LM00590-05-NO, £85 Officer’s Shoe, LM00579-12-NO, £80 Plectrum Rucksack, MH00200-12-NO, £150 Plectrum Straw Trilby, MJ00093-12-NO, £60 5 Chambray Bow Tie, LM00625-67, £25 6 Plectrum Remus Brogue, LM00644-ZCD-NO, £250 7 Plectrum Braces, MH00168-G71-NO, £30 8 Plectrum Leather Belt, MH00221-17, £60 1
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T hink M ichael D ouglas in W all S treet , or C hristian B ale in A merican P sycho - the 1 9 8 0 s was all about power
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More accessories available at bensherman.com
1990s The 1990s was a bit of a non-era for the tie. In a time of ‘casual Fridays,’ office wear changed - and the much blighted novelty tie made an appearance. Some did buck the trend - with Pulp’s frontman, Jarvis Cocker, mixing 60s and 70s tailoring with aplomb, often accessorised with a wide set tie. 2000s There’s always the temptation to view your own era as sartorially ‘getting it right.’ But in the case of the tie, this seems to be the case. A new generation of slickly groomed and tailored men have made ties a necessity - and they can be skinny, classic or somewhere in between. See Justin Timberlake for someone who gets it spot on.
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Tailoring Journal
GROOMING
THE BEST WET SHAVE “Wet shaving has made a revival recently – more men are taking an interest in it. It used to be a slapdash business and guys took the easy way out, but old-school razors require you to take more care.” Phil Latz, who presides over the Sharps Barber and Shop upstairs in the Islington branch, is probably not, it’s fair to say, how most people might imagine a master barber. Younger, cooler, hairier… he may be, but he’s wielding the slimline straight-edge blade with all the dexterity, precision and tender loving care that you would expect (and hope) if it were your precious throat under his unwavering gaze. With the revival in this particular art in men’s grooming we came to the conclusion that you may need to be educated in its finer – and most basic – techniques. Here’s a step-by-step guide to administering your own perfect wet shave, direct from Mr Latz (with a few extra pointers from Sharps’ own expert principles on the subject): Best executed while in the shower. Wash – or better still, exfoliate – your face, to make your beard as soft as it can possibly be. This will result in a more comfortable shave and the hair will remove with ease. 1
Apply a shaving gel (of which more later) and shave with the direction of hair growth (going against it will hurt and won’t allow for a close shave).
Sharps Barber, Ben Sherman Islington
FACIAL HAIR MASTERCLASS Finally, we probed Phil for some of those questions that his clients pose (some daily), plus a few of our own that we think are often pressing problems:
BEARDS & MOUSTACHES Trimming a beard is an art in itself. It’s best initially to go to a barber to have a good line created, after which you will be able to tidy it yourself at home.
Here are a few of Phil’s words of wisdom on essential facial-hair maintenance:
Beards grow quickly so it’s advisable to have them trimmed every two weeks or so.
Wash your beard when you wash your face, using a foaming cleanser or bar of soap – or a shampoo if you prefer.
If you really want to dye a greying beard, go for a more natural-looking semi-permanent dye, which will also be less harsh on your sensitive facial skin.
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Start with the hardest part first – under your nose – while the hairs are at their softest. Shave following the contours of your face. A straight-edged (cut throat) razor gives the best shave BUT is only for those well-versed in its use. Next best would be a vintage safety razor (double-edged without a guard) but generally as long as you use a clean blade it should do the job. Sharps feel that multi-blade razors are “a bit of a gimmick”.
2 Beard hair is curly so leave it to dry naturally. Combing it will only make it go wild and frizzy.
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Finish with a moisturiser.
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A n unruly beard is not a lo v ely thing – being shunned by polite society will be the ine v itable outcome of such slo v enliness
Q. What about trends for haircuts?
A. It depends on your skin. A lot of them have hydrating properties, which are good for dry skin (soap and water can be too drying). Alternatively, go for a face scrub which you can use every day if it’s not a very harsh one. This can also help prevent spots and blackheads – which will always be a problem if you live in a city with lots of grime.
A. There’s never been a better time for men’s hairdressing – there are so many trends and men are going berserk trying different looks. There will always be iconic cuts, like Steve McQueen’s, which looked so cool. And then, more recently, we’ve seen the Mad Men effect – the Don Draper side parting, which is probably 90 per cent of what we do at the moment. There’s also the Boardwalk Empire, 1920s slicked-back style. We also get asked for the Daniel Craig James Bond crop. It’s less about musicians, more about actors and sometimes footballers.
Q. How can I avoid ingrown hairs, razor burn and nicks?
It can’t have escaped your notice that facial hair is enjoying something of a moment. However, whether it’s the full beard or a jaunty ’tache (possibly a hangover from Movembers past) you can’t just sit back in idle complacency as the proud owner and allow it to go untended. An unruly beard is not a lovely thing – being shunned by polite society will be the inevitable outcome of such slovenliness.
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Q. Should I use a cleanser?
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Invest in professional-standard hair clippers.
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A. It’s all in the prep work rather than in the choice of razor. Ingrown hairs are caused by an uneven shave. Exfoliation will bring the hairs out more fully (so that they don’t loop back in again) and also get rid of dead skin cells which also get in the way of a close shave. Q. Is an electric razor just simply wrong? A. No, they’re not completely wrong and for some men, who are short of time, they’re the only option. They’re also good for older skin which is less elastic, but your shave will be nowhere near as close. Using an electric razor you’re missing out on all those important grooming steps as well as the pleasurable experience.
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7 If you want to create a flamboyant look for a moustache, don’t use a conditioner on it – the hair needs to remain coarse in order to hold a shape. Use a moustache wax to help create the look.
It’s best to let a barber create a good line for a moustache and then, as with a beard, you can tidy it at home. Clippers create a straighter line than scissors manage (and are easier to use).
Q. What’s best – shaving gel, foam, soap or cream? A. It’s down to preference – they all serve a purpose. A soap, applied with a brush, helps to soften the beard a little more and enhances the process. However, it’s important to completely saturate the skin and a non-foaming gel will act as an effective lubricant and may also have a mild anaesthetic quality that numbs the top layer of skin, thus reducing pain (nicks happen as a reaction to pain). A clear gel will also help you see the direction of hair growth.
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Q. What’s the best way to shave that difficult bit above my upper lip? A. Make sure that you get the tension right by tightening the skin. Shave that part first while the hair is soft. Don’t “saw” at it but aim for single strokes. Use an “edging” blade, which is also good for sideburns – such as Wilkinson Sword Quattro Titanium.
Q. Should I use anti-ageing products? A. I don’t think you need to. Nothing can turn back time. Just take care of your skin and in summer use a moisturiser with an SPF. Q. How can stubble look good? A. More and more men are going around unshaven now; it’s acceptable. But it can’t look unkempt – it needs to be maintained to look “right”. It still needs a line creating – that makes all the difference. And once white hairs start appearing you have to turn that stubble into a beard. Q. What’s the trick to going bald gracefully? A. It’s a difficult one, but the main thing is to accept the facts. A combover should have died out with your granddad. Rough stubble will always look better than trying to create a look out of something that isn’t there.
M ore and more men are going around unsha v en now ; it ’ s acceptable . B ut it can ’ t look unkempt – it needs to be maintained to look “ right ”
For grooming, visit Sharps Barber and Shop, 1st floor Ben Sherman Islington.
1/1a Camden Walk, Islington, London, N1 8DY
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Tailoring Journal
INTERVIEW
KNOW YOUR COLLAR After you’ve decided which suit to buy, next up is choosing the correct shirt. Here’s the lowdown on eight stylish collar shapes and which occasion to wear them. Whatever the question – Will this collar shape make my outfit look formal or casual? Will this collar look good without a tie? Should I go button down or not? – the answer’s here.
Cutaway
The cutaway collar is designed to make the tie more prominent, suiting a wider tie knot. The cutaway also works unbuttoned under a sharp blazer for a cool, continental look.
Classic Point
M usic from the past is a ne v er - ending journey – it would take too long to list e v erything . I follow my nose and get lost for weeks
The most common dress shirt collar, the classic point will suit the majority of wearers. Our classic point is designed to ensure that the tie will remain in focus.
Cutaway Penny
The traditional penny collar is firmly back in style and is perfect with a relaxed suit, buttoned up, sans tie. If you do choose to wear one, make sure it’s super slim.
1 Finger Button Down
Our one finger button down is a sharp, modern style that works perfectly with a skinny cut suit, suitable for anybody looking to leave the tie behind.
Gabriel Stebbing was the bass player in Metronomy. Now he’s fronting a new musical project – Night Works – that combines evocative story telling with danceable tunes. Night Works’ album ‘Urban Heat Island’ is out now on Loose Lips. Your music has been described as “sophisticated and spacious and riffing on a luxuriant groove, [with] catchy, layered melodies and deft musicianship – from subtle brass to silky synths – with nods to latterday Steely Dan and Prefab Sprout”. How would you describe it? My music is emotional and you can dance to it. It’s emotional dance music. That’s always been the key for me, no matter what kind of music I listen to or make. It doesn’t matter whether it’s made with guitars, synthesisers, sequencers, an orchestra or a gamelan! Mine’s made mostly from guitars and synths, though. You just released a new album – what can people expect from it? Pop hooks, lyrics about losing your money, your mind, and the sound of a record that was made the old-fashioned (expensive) way. I wanted to make a record that was defiantly not a bedroom/laptop record, and I hope it shows.
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Where in the world is your favourite place to perform? We think from watching your videos that a sense of place is important to you… Sense of place is so important – it gives context, history and a story. The most incredible place I’ve ever played a show was the Faroe Islands, with Metronomy – in high summer where it barely got dark – but on the whole my favourite country to play shows is France. They’ve got a great attitude to music and musicians there. What music are you into yourself – contemporary and from the past? Music from the past is a never-ending journey – it would take too long to list everything. I follow my nose and get lost for weeks. I practically live there! Contemporary music – I just heard and enjoyed the new Fryars and Outfit tracks, I love Frank Ocean and Kendrick Lamar. Can you recommend us someone (music) we may not have heard of? Brand new London artist called Roman – look out for him. It’s like David Bowie discovered hip hop in 1984. And Everyone – Kindness and Joakim’s collaborative project, which has a roots of Chicago house sound. Night Works is playing with them at DURRR at XOYO in May, really excited about that.
There’s a pink double-breasted blazer from Ben Sherman, which I wore on a recent shoot for Monsieur Robot, that’s quite fetching. It’s classic British style isn’t it, with a risk-taking attitude. That’s what I like about it.
What are you looking forward to most in 2013? Getting in the van and getting the music in front of people. We have some festivals coming up that are quite exciting. What is your motto? Don’t stop! What would you put in your ultimate sandwich? It’s got to be pastrami on rye from Katz’s deli. Dill pickle spear and mustard on the side. Yum.
2 Finger Button Down
A simple, versatile style, the two-finger button down looks just as at home with a formal suit and tie as it does with casual tailoring.
I mean, I’m definitely not complaining about my usual crowd, but there is a thing when you play really big venues, the expectations of you and what you’re going to play are quite fixed. People want a certain thing. But when you’re in a smaller or more intimate gig sometimes that can allow you to be more experimental.
Do you put a lot of thought into your outfits? Or have a stylist? How do you decide what to wear? No stylist I’m afraid! When I’m with the live band we tend to have a ring-round before the show. To check we don’t all turn up in matching striped shirts looking like the Beach Boys or something. So far so good.
Whose wardrobe would you most like to raid? David Bowie in his big suit phase, late 70s, early 80s. I doubt I’d fit into any of them, though.
The most unusual of our collars, the Penny Button Down is inspired by our 1960s heritage. Wear without a tie under vintage cut tailoring.
Where in the world is your favourite place to perform? I played a club night called Low End Theory set up by Flying Lotus in LA where the crowd was amazing. I mean, they were so into it there, I could play some darker, edgier stuff and they were into that. It’s great when your audience are really into your work and know all about it, when there’s a mutual respect thing going on.
Have you got any nicknames? My friends call me Gabe! That’s about it. My friend Dan [Michaelson] calls me G-Bone from time to time, which I can handle. I think he picked it up from Joseph Mount, who gets first dibs on that one.
gabe , N ight works
Penny Button Down
FLUME Australian wunderkind Harley Streten makes music under the moniker Flume and as one half of What So Not. The 21-year-old DJ and producer’s enchanting, dreamy and dance-friendly album is out now and is also called Flume. Your music has been described as a mix of undeniably contagious electronica… How would you describe it? It’s catchy – I’d say. I love a catchy tune and a great hook. What probably marks it out from comparable music is the sound palette, I love to search out different sounds to add into the mix, so that’s my trademark – unusual sounds – and I’m very particular about what they are. If I had to sum it up I would say definitely melody plus sonic palette. Plus beats, of course!
What music are you into yourself? Flying Lotus was a big inspiration to me. I am also a huge fan of Moby and everything he’s done. I haven’t met him though I did come close at a festival I played recently. I knew Moby was on the bill and I arrived a bit early and I went backstage and there was Moby sitting on a table by himself, with headphones on drinking a cup of coffee. So I really wanted to go and talk to him but because he had the headphones on I decided not to interrupt him. Maybe next time! Can you recommend us someone (music) we might not have heard of? Yes I can. This kid called Dream Koala. He’s 18 or something like that and he makes absolutely chilled music. Amazing. Have you got any nicknames? When I was young I was known as DJ H – at the time I was playing a lot of friends’ parties. But that’s evolved to Flume now which I like a lot more. Do you put a lot of thought into your outfits? How do you decide what to wear? Well I’ve never been hugely into fashion but, you know what, the more I get photographed while I’m DJing, the more I’m beginning to think it’s important. So I’ve been trying to get myself a bit of a uniform together for myself – some
Small Point
The small point is a collar style that is currently having a resurgence. It’s easy to see why; the small point looks just as good under a jumper as it does with a suit.
3 Finger Button Down
This is our most traditional button down. A less formal option than the classic point, the three-finger button down looks relaxed without a tie, unbuttoned.
I lo v e to search out different sounds to add into the mi x , so that ’ s my trademark – unusual sounds – AND I’M VERY PARTICULAR nice shirts. What I like about wearing Ben Sherman is the quality – you appreciate it, and if you like something, you want it to last, not wear out. My favourite Ben Sherman thing is a black zip-up bomber jacket, that’s the smartest thing I own. Whose wardrobe would you most like to raid? I don’t know! No one! Who do you think has a good wardrobe? Tinie Tempah? A lot of boys in London share his style of dressing at the moment… Tinie Tempah? I don’t know what he wears. I know his music though. I’ll just keep my wardrobe. But maybe a smarter version of it. What are you looking forward to most in 2013? I’ve been touring constantly for almost a year now, in the USA and Australia, so I’m looking forward to not touring for a little bit and getting on with some writing, as I don’t seem to be able to combine the two. What is your motto? Less is more. What would you put in your ultimate sandwich? Can I have pasta instead of a sandwich? My favourite food is pesto pasta. So if I had to convert that into sandwich form it would be a chicken and pesto sandwich or something along those lines.
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Tailoring Journal
A WORD TO THE WISE
From six of London’s best dressed men.
Oliver Cooke, 26
Press Manager, Starworks
F it is e v erything If there is one rule of formal dressing a man should always stick to, it’s wear a suit that fits. If you think it may be too big then it probably is. When wearing with a jacket with one button done up, the sides should hug your body with no bunching around the button or shoulders, you need to see a centimetre of cuff when holding your arms by your side and your trousers should sit comfortably on top of your shoes to achieve a classic and masculine look. Whether you prefer a more effortless, louche and bohemian feel such as that of Eddie Redmayne or Jarvis Cocker or something sharper and more traditionally elegant such as the style of Daniel Craig or Prince Charles, there’s one thing they all have in common – they all know to wear clothes in the perfect fit for them. To find the perfect fit of suit you don’t need to fork out and go bespoke. There are great options to be found off the peg today and a trip to a tailor is an entirely affordable, quick and easy option to make your suit look like it’s cut just for you.
Jonathan Daniel Pryce, 25
Stephen Monaghan, 38
Leon Soulsby-Constantino, 31
Matthew Buck , 41
Photographer
Company director, humble shopkeeper and proud dad
International Tailoring Development for Ben Sherman
Photographic Producer
Editor at Winkreative, and Contributing Editor at Monocle
O pt for an understatement o v er the dandified
A sk : W hat would D on D raper do ?
A man is ne v er fully dressed without proper shoes
A n ironed shirt
A dopt a judicious splash of colour Getting a tailored look right is harder than many think. A gent who gets it right every time is Patrick Grant, director at Norton & Sons of Savile Row. He embodies both sides of British menswear – elegance and irreverence. To me, colour is key to standing out as it’s easy to fall into a sea of black, grey or navy. Mr Grant gets the balance of subtle and bold colour perfectly. Whether he’s in black tie, country tweed or bespoke tailoring he always looks impeccable.
A true gent has an innate style and very rarely speaks louder than a classic assemblance – his confidence resides within. A dandy, however, will accompany the classic with something nouveau, attention-grabbing and ostensibly “loud”. It may well be the juxtaposition of colours – from the top to bottom, a loud sock or no sock, a neckerchief with a Neapolitan collar shirt, a slub silk pocket square crushed and stuffed in to add the “I don’t give a damn” attitude when in actuality every care has been taken to acquire that aesthetic – louche and arrogant. Hair has never been a big deal (probably because I have little left) so unless you are George Clooney, Ryan Gosling or Adrien Brody your hair is probably average anyway.
Tailoring used to be seen as this very serious area of fashion and clothing and was always associated with bankers and City types. We have created a new handwriting for tailoring that reflects the 50-year-old personality of Ben Sherman. With a missed generation of tailoring wearers, we have seen the new breed excited about the prospect of how a suit can transform how society views them and how far a cool suit can get you in the business and social world. If in doubt with an outfit selection on tailoring you have to ask would Don Draper wear this? If the answer is yes then go with your Mad Men instinct. “In Don Draper we trust.”
There are often several pairs of shoes under my desk and that is probably the thing I spend the most money on. Where I have stopped spending money on expensive clothes that end up having a short shelf life I now spend that money on quality handmade leather shoes. You can look semi-scruffy but put on a really good-quality pair of shoes and suddenly the scruffy becomes something more polished.
Tom Morris, 30
Although I have to admit that I personally hardly ever get round to doing it, but nothing improves an outfit more than a well-ironed shirt. It really is worth that 15 minutes on a Sunday night, and will give off a far more polished appearance. On the grooming front, my advice is: always get your hair cut one week before you actually need to, especially if you wear it short. You’ll always look a bit more put together that way.
The difference a good pair of quality leather shoes can make is incredible and although I still have the casual shoes, I mostly wear the formal shoes regardless of the clothes I’m wearing. It’s a bit like putting on a good fitted suit, it changes how you stand and walk. The one thing I have yet to discipline myself on is polishing them, to make sure they last a long time.
As for a motto for dressing well, I have always loved Michael Drake’s ethos and belief in the fine art of understatement – there’s a lot to be said for that.
Discover more industry opinions at bensherman.com/blog
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Tailoring Journal
CITY GUIDES
B en S herman G uide to B E R L I N 1 Make tracks to (arguably) the best club in the world
Dine at a Soho institution: great for British food and superb wine in a chilled-out setting 1
Andrew Edmunds 46 Lexington St London W1F 0LW 020 7437 5708
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Indulge in a classic cocktail
Frittiersalon Boxhagener Strasse 104 10245 Berlin Friedrichshain 030 2593 3906 www.frittiersalon.de
Club der Visionäre Am Flutgraben 1 12435 Berlin 030 6951 8942 www.clubdervisionaere.com
A restaurant and live music bar – where Carl Barat hangs out when in Berlin
A place to enjoy a film surrounded by grassy banks in the open air
Breakfast and brunch out is taken very seriously in Berlin
By far the best option for a sunny summer’s day – there’s a bar, sundeck and pool
The Nightjar 129 City Road London EC1V 1JB www.barnightjar.com
Finish the classic-gent look with a traditional walking stick or umbrella 5
Start the day with a full English at this traditional establishment 2
Café 338 338 Bethnal Green Road London E2 0AG 020 7729 0246
3 Restaurant and private dining room behind a clothes shop from our friends at Disappearing Dining Club
Back in 5 Minutes 224 Brick Lane London E1 6SA www.disappearingdiningclub.co.uk/backin5minutes
James Smith & Sons Hazelwood House 53 New Oxford Street London WC1A 1BL 020 7836 4731 www.james-smith.co.uk
See behind the scenes at a real micro brewery
Go Scandi cool in this wood-lined alcove – great cocktails and splendid cooking
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Have an alternative workout
The Elk in the Woods 39 Camden Passage London N1 8EA 020 7226 3535 www.the-elk-in-the-woods.co.uk
London Bridge Climbing Wall Unit EO1B The Biscuit Factory 100 Clement’s Road London SE16 4DG www.archclimbingwall.com
Where else is better to watch the other national game than the home of cricket itself
Get a great haircut and wet shave to complement your new suit
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Lord’s St John’s Wood Road London NW8 8QN 020 7616 8500 www.lords.org
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Sharps at Ben Sherman 1-1A Camden Walk London N1 8DY 020 7359 9852 www.sharpsbarbers.com
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London Fields Brewery 365-366 Warburton St London E8 3RR 020 7254 7174 Brewery tours every Saturday at 1pm, 2pm and 3pm www.londonfieldsbrewery.co.uk
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Go bowling crazy – great for a date
All Star Lanes Victoria House Bloomsbury Place London WC1B 4DA 020 7025 2676 www.allstarlanes.co.uk
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Take in a film – and a pint
The Ritzy Cinema Brixton Oval London SW2 1JG 020 7326 2615 www.picturehouses.co.uk/cinema/Ritzy_Picturehouse
Im Volkspark Friedrichshain 10407 Berlin www.freiluftkino-berlin.de
Go and see a football match with the locals at Hertha BSC. Hertha BSC plays in Bundesliga 2 at their famous home of the Olympiastadion
This is a private members’ club but if you stay at the hotel you can avail yourself of the restaurants, bars and pool
Illustrations by Ian Carrington
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Brot & Butter Hardenbergstrasse 4-5 10623 Berlin 030 2630 0346 www.brot-und-butter.de
Badeschiff Berlin Eichenstrasse 4 12435 Berlin 030 533 2030 www.arena-berlin.de
Best for a walk and an eccentric purchase or two at the flea market
Get into German beer and intensely wooden surroundings
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Soho House Berlin Torstrasse 1 10119 Berlin 030 405 0440 www.sohohouseberlin.com
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Mauerpark Fleamarket Bernauer Straße 63-64 13355 Berlin 0176 2925 0021 www.mauerparkmarkt.de
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Wilhelm Hoeck 1892 Wilmersdorfer Strasse 149 10585 Berlin 030 341 8174 www.wilhelm-hoeck.de
B en S herman G uide to N E W Y O R K The oldest working bar in New York, first opening its doors in 1817 1
Classic New York pizza joint totally unchanged since the 70s, with explosive live jazz 5
Ear Inn 326 Spring Street New York 10013 www.earinn.com
Arturo’s 106 W Houston St New York New York 10012 212 677 3820
Hip hotel on a budget, in the heart of Manahattan
Rare rye whiskey and barbecue meat in fashionable Williamsburg
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Ace Hotel 20 W 29th St New York 10001 212 679 2222 www.acehotel.com/newyork
Fette Sau 354 Metropolitan Ave New York 11211 718 963 3404 www.fettesaubbq.com
Quirky little bistro – with plenty of quirky character as well as good food
Upmarket cobblers for a spot of TLC for your shoes
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Vinegar Hill House 72 Hudson Ave Brooklyn, New York 11201 718 522 1018 www.vinegarhillhouse.com
Leather Spa 10 W 55th St New York 10019 212 262 4823 www.leatherspa.com
An old factory on the Williamsburg Waterfront, now a hotel with breathtaking views of Manhattan
Buzzy restaurant in Brooklyn – featuring award-winning salad
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To recieve our weekly Ben Sherman Recommends email straight to your inbox, sign up at bensherman.com/signup
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White Trash Fast Food Schönhauser Allee 6-7 10119 Berlin www.whitetrashfastfood.com
Olympischer Platz 3 14053 Berlin 030 3068 8100 www.herthabsc.de
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Best for pre-club drinks before braving the queue at Berghain 10
Watergate Falckensteinstrasse 49 10997 Berlin 030 6128 0396 www.water-gate.de
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B en S herman G uide to L ondon
7 Get burgered or bratwursted up, it’s all homemade and suitable for vegetarians too
Berghain / Panorama bar Am Wriezener Bahnhof 10243 Berlin 030 2936 0210 www.berghain.de 2
We put in the leg work so you don’t have to: discovering places to eat, drink and watch live music in London, Berlin and New York.
4 Take in the riverside by night – Berlin style that is
Wythe Hotel 80 Wythe Avenue at N. 11th Williamsburg Brooklyn 11249 www.wythehotel.com
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Battersby 225 Smith Street New York 11231 718 852 8321 www.battersbybrooklyn.com
For an amusing night out – try this excellent retro arcade turned bar on the Lower East Side 9
2 Bits 153 Essex St New York 10002 212 477 8161 www.twobitsretroarcade.com
A premier bowling alley with live music and tasty fried chicken to boot 10
Brooklyn Bowl 61 Wythe Avenue New York NY 11211 718 963 3369 www.brooklynbowl.com
Visit the New York branch of our favourite London barbers 11
Sharps Barbers Le Parker Meridien Hotel 119 West 56th Street New York 10019 www.sharpsbarbers.com 12
Ultra cool coffee shop
Culture Espresso Bar 72 W 38th St. New York 10018 www.cultureespresso.com
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