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Unruly Team & Contributers Curators Faith Franzonia & Emily Longobardi Editorial Assistant Connor Berquist Contributers Ashley Armitage-- @ladyist Lauren Tepfer--@s.ilver Nyki Elle-- @Nykielle Julia Ling Kelleher-@ julialingkelleher Cover Image Sena Cheung-- @radfoxes
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Content p.10 .....................................................................Ladyist p.22 ...............................Interview with Lauren Tepfer p.34 ........................................................Nyki X Detroit p.42 .......................Interview with Julia Ling Kelleher p.52..................................................Movie Suggestions p.62 ..................................................................Playlist 1
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Editors Letter Our inspirations for this issue arose back in January as we were scrolling through Instagram and noticed how many people our age are doing amazingly creative things (photography, painting, writing, filmmaking, etc.). Inspired by so many talented individuals on Social Media, the Unruly Team was born. We wanted to be able to meet talented young people with fresh ideas and then be able to organize, articulate and share what they live for. Pushing boundaries, being yourself, and staying unapologetically unruly is how confidence is instilled in an individual and how change is catalyzed. All we hope for you, our reader, is to enjoy Issue 01 of the magazine and get inspired. Let unruly be your new source for underground pop-culture, and happy reading. You can reach us on Instagram, @unrulymag, or via email, unrulymagazine@gmail.com to get involved with the next issue. xoxo, Emily and Faith
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Ladyist
By: Ashley Armitage Ashley Armitade, 23 year old feminist photographer, just received her BFA in Photomedia from the University of Washington and has worked with a multitude of renowned magazines, and companies. Here are Ashley Armitade, models, 23 year old feminist photographer, just received Photomedia the University of someherofBFA herinmost movingfrom pieces, handpicked Washington and has with a team. multitude of renowned byworked the Unruly magazines, models, and companies. Here are some of her most moving pieces, handpicked by the Unruly team.
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Lauren Tepfer
18 year old visionary and photographer, kindly met with Unruly Mag at a local coffee shop to discuss her personal aesthetic formulation, biggest influences, and future aspirations. Her hard work and dedication to the visual art community at such a young age has led to her acceptance, with scholarship, to Parsons School of Design in NYC in the BFA program with a concentration in photography. Enjoy this interview and follow her on Instagram @s.ilver to send love and get inspired to get out and see your world in a new light as she has.
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UM: When did you get into photography, was there a specific moment/person you met or was it gradually something you found through learning more about yourself? LT: Growing up I’ve always been interested in art, I’ve always been an artistic person--really into theater, singing, and just all mediums of art. My aunt would always give me her hand-me-down cameras when I was younger so I would shoot things like family events, and friends. In the beginning I got into instagram and pure editing –making images look good visually. I was really into photography even before high school, that’s when I started using it and doing it as a hobby. My freshmen year (of high school) I got my first digital camera. My sophomore year I started doing shoots with people and really planning them out -- not being very spontaneous with it, which is weird because now I find myself doing things more spontaneously. I don’t do many planned shoots anymore. Recently, I’ve saved enough money to get a DSLR which is the camera I’m currently using. And I guess that’s really when it all got good. I started getting into taking pictures, posting them, and hearing what people have to say. UM: When you get behind the camera what goes through your mind? LT: When I’m shooting it’s never the same, for instance during the summer I’ll go out with my camera and just look for things to shoot but other times I usually just carry my camera around with me especially now, since I’ve been so busy its hard for me to do planned shoots. Recently it’s been me taking my camera in my backpack and whenever I go somewhere and see something I’ll take a picture of it. Usually it’s just me liking things visually and then figuring out how to make it look better. I was talking to my friend last week about my editing process, and it was weird for me to talk about because I feel like I don’t really edit my pictures (but I obviously do), it’s more of me making them look the way I see it when I take the picture, if that makes sense. So I’ll take a picture and see things a certain
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way and when I upload it to my computer I fix it to make it look the way I saw it when I took the picture. So it’s a whole visual process of me changing things. I don’t deep fry my pictures or do anything crazy to them, it’s just me adding the little things that I see and cropping it the way I saw it, adding colors the way I saw it. I feel like I have some type of contact lenses everywhere I go and I see things in a certain way. Taking/doing photography is more me translating what I see and sharing it with others so they can see it too. Sometimes its frustrating when I take a picture and look at my camera and its not anything I wanted it to look like and then ill put it on my computer and I can change it which sounds really bad but it becomes an art form. When I’m taking a picture I will know what I want it to look like when its done, so when I take a picture I’ll be like; I want this to be blue, I want this to be pink, I want this to be purple, I know what I want it to look like when I’m done with it. UM: Are there any photos you’ve taken that were your favorites/evoke the most emotion for you? LT: I really like my self-portraits, they mean a lot to me, and portraits I’ve taken of other people that mean something to me. Especially when I go and take pictures of friends who live far away. I feel like whenever I pick a picture I like it’s usually a picture of someone else. UM: Have you found yourself becoming a more natural observer as a photographer? LT: Yeah for sure, I think that’s what led me to becoming a photographer, I’ve always been extremely observant and I think that’s what made me interested in photography. I don’t think photography has taught me to be an observer because that’s the criteria to become one, you need to be an observer. I’m just so heavily observant of every situation I’m in that it’s natural to just take everything in. Especially observing things visually, but also the dynamics of relationship weather it be a friendship or parent relationship. I’ve definitely always been an observer but photography has helped me enhance those skills.
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UM: How did you get involved in adolescent content? LT: So one of their cofounders, Rama, reached out to me over the summer and we started talking via email. She said she wanted to get on the phone with me and just talk about what she thought of me and what she saw for me in my future, so I was like okay (timidly), I got on Skype with her and she basically said she wanted to hire me as a director and have me produce content with her as my mentor. So I will be creating bodies of work underneath their supervision and direction, which is really cool, and its so much fun. I’ve been with them for 6 months now, but ill be with them for 5 years, it sounds intimidating but I’m really excited. UM: What have you produced so far? LT: I did this short film, that I’m not very proud of, and I probably shouldn’t say that. I don’t hate it, I can just see how much I’ve grown since I’ve made it. I also directed a music video in October; it should be out either this month or next month. UM: Can you tell us anything about the music video? LT: Yeah, it’s for a band called Hiding Out, they’re a small band from north jersey, and its very in line/ similar to my aesthetics. When you see it you’ll be like “oh yeah I can tell Lauren directed that”. It looks so good visually, and I’m really really proud and excited. UM: Are these videos mostly your friends or do you cast people? LT: Yeah most of the pictures and videos I take are usually with my friends, sometimes when I have things that I need, specifically whether it be for rookie or adolescent content, like when I did the short film before the music video, I kind of casted some people because I needed a bigger group and I didn’t have enough friends who were comfortable being in it. But aside from that it’s mostly my friends and people I know.
UM: Is this something you want to do more of? LT: I’m not sure, so many of the photographers I admire and worship have moved into video at some point, and I think that’s just where you go after you develop yourself as a photographer by moving into moving picture. And it’s not the same for everyone but it is among the people I admire, like Olivia Bee and Petra Collins moved into film fairly quickly. They’re so good at translating themselves. I don’t yet know where I want my video production to go, I could see myself involved with the cinematography around documentaries or making movies but I’m just not sure. UM: How did you first get involved with rookie mag? LT: So I submitted a photo diary to their submissions pages in May of my sophomore year, so 2015. I didn’t have a special connection with them, I just submitted like everyone else does and I didn’t get an email back till August of 2015, so there was a good gap between that. I’ve been reading rookie since eighth grade, and I know I say that to everybody who ever asks me about rookie and it sounds so stupid and cliché like I’m making it up but I’ve literally been reading rookie since I was in eighth grade. I remember being in Barnes & Nobles, I didn’t find out about it on the site but I found the book there and I was like oh my god this is incredible. It was very the tumblr aesthetic and everything everybody loved in middle school, so I was like “this is so cool, I’m so into the photography!” and then I started learning about Tavi and everybody so that led to my obsession with it. May of my sophomore year I wanted to take a shot and see what they had to say and then I didn’t hear back from Tavi until august. She was like “we love this we want you to publish this with us”, and then I started making more stuff with them month after month. I think once you have one thing published with them you get on their list and then they send you the monthly themes, and you can pitch ideas to them. I really really love it, it’s been the best experience of my life. Last year was my first full year of doing rookie and it was just so surreal looking at my author page. Working with them has been amazing, I’ve learned so many skills; like how to work under a deadline, 29
how to work with others, and having a boss, its really nice. UM: Who has been your favorite person to work with? LT: My friend Mara is literally the best ever, she’s so cool, and I haven’t shot with her in a long time but when I do portrait stuff she’s so much fun to work with because she has a vision and I have a vision and then we do it together and its just really fun. She’s a great model and is extremely good at moving her body, moving herself and her face and its so natural with her. I think she’s like the best person I’ve worked with and so I guess as a muse she’s definitely the best. Anyone else I’ve worked with behind the scenes, like the crew I worked with on the music video, was so helpful. It is so much fun to have people who know what your vision is and are willing to help you. When I was doing the music video I had a storyboard so I was like this is what we’re going off of, and everyone agrees. Its weird, because when I started directing with adolescent they edited the music video, so I didn’t have to edit or anything like that, I have a production team that did that, and they said this is the first cut now give us your notes, so I was like what do you mean notes it looks great, and they explained “no we want you to knit pick”, and its nice because if its something that’s going to be published under my name, I want it to be perfect. I’m hesitant because I’m always like “no, thank you for your work it looks so great!” but they want to know what I would like differently, such as the timing and little things like that. Its so weird having people listen to me as an artist & director and having people value my vision. UM: Off the top of your head, who are your favorite photographers? LT: For photographers definitely Olivia bee (@ oliviabee), she’s my number 1 favorite, and we follow each other mutually on Instagram so its like the best thing in my life. Her book came out on my birthday and I was like this is a sign, I just love her so much… I don’t know any other photographers right now but there are a bunch that have similar aesthetics as me 30
like Todd Hido (@toddhido), he has the same type of vision that I do with the night time and everything and its really cool because when I first started shooting that stuff I wasn’t really looking at anyone else’s work I was just doing it, and people would be like this looks like so and so’s work, so I would go look at it and think “oh my god, people see the same stuff that I do!” UM: What draws your interest in architecture/suburbia? It seems like that’s a major portion of your work. LT: Its definitely a big symbol and visual thing I work with a lot and I think when I first started with it it was just what I was surrounded by all the time. I think I was so tired of everybody on Instagram having to go into the city or go somewhere cool to take a good picture and have something cool to publish. I’m inspired by what I’m around all the time, this is where I live, this is who I’m with all the time, this is who I am, and I just want people to see this is what I see. I don’t have any deep meaning behind my whole suburban architecture house thing but it’s where I am and its what I think looks good.
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Nyki Elle X Detroit By: Nyki Elle
Nyki Elle, intersectional fashion photographer, met up with the Unruly Mag team to discuss her recent trip to Detroit, Michigan. Enjoy the following photo series she shot and check out her instagram: @nykielle
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JULIA.LING.KELLEHER. Instagram : @julialingkelleher Youtube: @jujusquad
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Julia Ling Kelleher, 18 year old sweetheart, is currently residing in LA. We discovered her work when she started making Youtube videos back in 2014 and have watched her develop into the artist she is today. The following photos were developed and submitted by Julia, capturing some of her more candid moments.
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UM: Who/what do you think has most influenced your personal style? At what age did you start playing around with your fashion sense? JLK: I started experimenting with clothes when I was in the 5th grade. I’m not exactly sure what inspired it...but I remember always waking up with a desire to wear something ridiculous to school. A big influence of my style was the Internet, specifically blogging, YouTube, and Instagram. It’s like having a mood board always at your hands.
UM: Any style phases you went through that make you laugh/cringe looking back on them now? JLK: Everyone does, I think haha, I used to wear floral print leggings and arm warmers...it’s so funny to look back on but without all the in between stages I would be so different.
UM: Do you feel you’ve learned more about yourself through playing around with photography, video, making sets, etc. ? JLK: Yes, in the past few months I’ve tried exploring all different types of mediums, and in parallel with this I’ve also grown immensely. Trial and error is the only way...it’s the quickest way to learn what you love and hate. I’m learning about myself and the things that matter to me the most.
UM: What did it feel like filming, editing, and posting your first few videos? Was this something you just did for fun or did someone/something inspire you to do so? JLK: The first videos I ever posted were usually lookbooks or vlogs, something I really have no interest in anymore. I had no idea what I was doing, I just saw other girls on YouTube make these videos and thought I could take a stab at it. It was mainly just for fun; it felt like a safe space to me so I had free realm.
UM: Have you always had an eye for video and aesthetics or is this something that developed as you got older? How has it evolved? 46
JLK: As I experience more of the world my eyes grow bigger and I develop a better understanding of myself. To be honest, I think it only just started evolving. Right now I’m really attracted to saturated color, tacky props, and anything 60s. Ever since I moved to LA about four months ago, I finally could see my vision clearly. Of course there’s so much more execution to be done, but at least I can see it in my head.
UM: You often write about strength through softness and embracing one’s weaknesses, is this something you’ve gotten to learn about yourself? JLK: For the longest time I was so embarrassed about how sensitive I am, the simplest things make me cry. I thought sensitive was a synonym for “bad.” Someone recently told me it made me weak, and that was the breaking point for me. If people really can’t see that softness and sensitivity is a product of immense care for something, then things really need to change. People are so scared of vulnerability and their emotions. I’m working on a film right now on this topic. 1. listen to 50s love songs 2. buy myself a 7/11 slushie 3. write in my diary 4. take the subway somewhere
UM: What are you top three favorite films? JLK: My answer is different every time but currently Palo Alto, Where the Wild Things Are, and Somewhere.
UM: What friends have you made through the internet? I know you and Rachel are close, that video from the summer in NYC was so sweet! JLK: Rachel Cobb is such an amazing girl and especially an amazing friend. Besides my high school friends, all my friends are from the internet. It’s weird because I feel like now I can learn so much about someone before I meet them. Almost too much. I want to meet more people outside of the internet, but it’s so hard. I can’t remember the last time I became friends with a complete stranger.
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UM: I love how close you are with your brother, what is your relationship like, how has he (and the rest of your family/friends) inspired and pushed you?
UM: As someone who has grown up on the internet, do you think our generation is responsible to use their online profiles as platforms for creativity? In what ways does our generation misuse social media?
JLK: Our relationship has grown immensely in the past few years. I think we’ve always had similar likings in terms of art and film, so in that way we work well together. He’s always there to help me with my films. That doesn’t exclude a few sibling arguments every now and then :-) My parents, my brother, and my friends are so supportive of me. They’ve shaped my view of the world and have helped me in any way possible.
JLK: I don’t think we are necessarily responsible to do so, the internet seems to be a lot of our generation’s safe space. The thing is the internet is always here, it’s one of the few things that will never leave. In a way our generation is in love with the internet, and in this relationship we have the choice to do whatever we want with it. The only way I’ve seen people misuse it is when they pretend to be someone they aren’t. I don’t mean catfishing, I mean creating
UM: Are there ever creative barriers that form where you feel you aren’t inspired? If so, what do you do to break through these?
UM: Finally, where would be your dream location to photograph / film / live / etc… ?
JLK: Every few days, even every few hours, I don’t feel inspired at all. To get past the block I 1. listen to 50s love songs 2. buy myself a 7/11 slushie 3. write in my diary 4. take the subway somewhere
JLK: Oh, easy one...the Madonna Inn! It’s been my dream to go there for years. Their pink dining room full of hearts is what my dreams look like.
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Movie Suggestions
Yes, we condensed your list for you
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Salvare la Faccia (Psychout for Murder 1972)
This Italian drama covers the story of a girl blinded by her desire for rev enge against a man after her forced placement into a mental hospital. Her stunning outfits and lavish lifestyle don’t erase her murderous intentions, but one can’t help but be infatuated by the beauty in the Italian scenery, beautiful accents, and gorgeous outfits from the 70s, not to mention her ever-perfect eyeliner. 54
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Requiem for a Dream (2000)
Based on the novel by Hubert Selby Jr. (also highly recommend), this film contains beautifully directed cinematography. It is set in Coney Island, New York where drug-addicts partake in a horrifyingly monotonous yet forever thrill-seeking life. This psychological drama film shows how we are all addicted to something, whether it be drugs or television.
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The Sacrament (2013)
Inspired by the true events of the 1978 Jonestown Massacre, this horror cult movie explores the story of an American investigative team’s visit to a religious cult’s commune and displays how easily people can be manipulated by someone in power.
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Playlist 1 Brujas - Princess Nokia Btstu - Dot City Sleeps - Wun Two French Inhale - [bsd.u] Low Class Conspiracy - Quasimoto News Flesh - Current Joys All the Other Girls - June Marieezy Your Eyes - Joey Pecoraro I’m Gone - Maal A Goomba Clair de Lune - Claude Debussy, Martin Jones Faking Bright - Saski You’re the Best - Wet You Took Your Time (feat. King Krule) Mount Kimbie Solitude - Billie Holiday CCCXXV - Suicideyear F*ck Me & Feed Me - Rendezvous At Two Something - Cyn Friend Zone - Thundercat Serpentine Fire - Earth Wind & Fire Street Trash - Tobacco Call Me Up - HOMESHAKE Israel - Siouxsie and the Banshees Windowpane - Mild High Club Underwater - Porches Zen Automation - Pond My Cherie Amour - Stevie Wonder 60
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Email: unrulymagazine@gmaill.com Instagram: @Unrulymag