UNSCOUTED
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Table of Contents Letter from the Editor Collection Reviews10 Pioneer Profile26 Who is Anthony Vaccarello?28 Fashioning Gender30 Hocus Pocus32 Meet the Model: Miles McMillan34 New Boys36 Fashion Future42 Fit to Frame46 Immediacy in Fashion48 Instagram’s Secret Societies50 Our Perez Hilton53 Meet the Model: Justin Petszchke58 Return of the Male Supermodel61 Sick & Tired64 A House on Fire69
editor’s letter
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Unscouted
Going further. This issue is about self-exploration. As I discover the power of my own voice and image I decided to explore where it could take me personally and professionally. Now as a content creator, going viral and having high numbers of followers is social and professional currency. Personal and professional lines are blurred as readers are showing more interest in wanting to know the person behind the byline. It is important to be present as an editor this issue. I pushed myself to do more, to be more, and to go further than before in every aspect of design, copy, and presentation. Moreover I was more present in the industry by learning about and meeting some of the future faces in modeling, design, and journalism and sharing those stories and experiences here with you.
Ovadia & Sons Spring 2017 Menswear
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dead trends.
Once a motif is being sold at Zara, it’s high time you don’t include it in your designs for next season. The showcase at Ovadia & Sons was divertive, lacked originality, and regurgitated ideas seen at fast-fashion stores (which is already watered down versions of things we’ve seen seasons prior. Unfortunately, there was no story being told and if there was it was one we don’t care to hear twice, better yet, told with less zest. If Ovadia & Sons was going for a relaxed, chill take on athleisure it was definitely achieved. The loose fitting shirts, “distressed” denim, and pot leaf insignia was reminiscent of someone who had gotten dressed in the dark. Embroidered roses on the outside of bomber jackets, and “paradise” sewn across t-shirts is something we’ve seen done by Gucci, Topman, and Zara before - the lack of original design and poor styling called for an underwhelming presentation as a whole.
Rodarte Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
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anti-spring
Anti-spring collection. Rodarte’s spring summer 2017 collection had all the nuances of a typical spring summer collection but simultaneously being the exact opposite. Lace skirts and dresses looked dark or emotionally heavy or paired with leather boots and fur jackets. The collection was dark for the most part – no bright contrasting colors that one would expect for a spring summer collection. However, the garments themselves alluded to the spring troupes. There was something about the cut of the skirts and dresses that wafted and flowed. Tops and bodices layered like rose petals with reflective embellishments and polka dotted tulle. The design is what created the spring illusion. The models weren’t wearing hot pink hot pants or dresses covered in lily pads, but even the heavier leather clad looks gave a spring summer impression. There was an odd juxtaposition to the clothes looking light, free, and fun but feeling hard or rough or jaded. This girl wears white to the wedding, but is no virgin. She holds the secrets to the world. She is duplicitous.
Vivienne Westwood Fall 2016 Menswear
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be specific.
Westwood blurred gender lines with her recent menswear collection. The show included classic mens pieces structured pants and jackets and some not so classic pieces - lamÊ dresses. Models donned electric blue eyeshadow or slip gowns that allowed for a casual nip-slip. While some pieces seemed wearable straight off of the runway, others had more quirky appeal. Jackets with oversized shoulders, or pants that sagged low on the waist and bellowed down the leg like curtains. There was no line drawn for man or woman in this show. The term unisex even seems wrong to describe it. But if I am to Be Specific, it’s clear that nothing is clear anymore.
Gypsy Sport Fall 2016 Menswear
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blurred lines. Warm, lush, thick patchwork of earthy browns and powder blue tiered in a pyramid of human bodies at Skylight Clarkson Square for the Gypsy Sport Presentation. Gypsy Sport, a unisex line, leaned toward conventional masculine lines and cuts, while as if at the same time, tossed everything we know about men’s fashion out of the window. As a collective, each piece bleeds into the other. Fuzzy patchwork coats with colors of tan and sea foam would then become flared pants of lily white and sandy brown. The next, a turtle-neck gradating back into the colors before it. A CFDA Fashion Fund Winner, Gypsy Sport’s presentation questioned gender and defied what we define as men or women’s garments. Male models wore short shorts and flared pants that looked no more out of place than if you had seen them worn by a woman. Makeup played a large role in this conversation as well. Models of different shades and skin types peered overtop and next to one another, while some even had their faces painted similarly to the garments they wore. This presentation challenged everything that divides us: gender, sexuality, race - and ultimately concluded that the confusion, discomfort, and the emotions that met in the middle and spilled into one another is what should be celebrated and sought after.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
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rosy cheeked girls.
A scene pulled from the pages of a Jane Austen novel. Beautiful rosy-cheeked girls with tussled hair in breezy 17th century rose patterned dresses. This is one of Alexander McQueen’s “prettier” collections of recent years. Many of the looks that came down the runway at Alexander McQueen were a damsel in control. Soft embroidered dresses, and beautifully tiered ruffles – this woman was delicate yet sturdy. She needed no Prince Charming to come to her rescue. She is the King in (Mc)Queens’s clothes. “All I want to do is make women feel stronger,” said late Alexander McQueen once in an interview with style editor Tim Blanks many years ago in reference to his controversial “Highland Rape” collection. SS 2016 collection by Sarah Burton, current Creative Director at Alexander McQueen, however, does that in a smoother, less traumatic way. The collection was full of thin linear cuts and pale colors. The women were clad in chains at the bodice – exemplifying the “sturdiness” amongst soft feathered, and rose patterned dresses. “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft,” said Burton backstage. The designer spent her childhood growing up on the countryside. She meshed her personal experience with that of the house’s namesake – delicacy of her childhood memories with the strength that McQueen instills in each of his designs.
John Galliano Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
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middlemarch.
Romantic and eclectic: Bill Gaytten at John Galliano stayed true to the houses namesake with exquisite tailoring and a flare for the dramatic. Structured blazers paired with hemmed above the ankle pants wafted down the runway along with delicate ruffled dresses, short skirts, and sheer polka-dot tights. It was a war of the classes – posh Englishmen vs punk South Londoners. The girls in dresses or skirts wore their hair down flowing, while others in more structured uniforms had their hair pulled back, slick. The highlight of Gaytten’s showing was the use of polka dot in shirts, dresses, pants, skirts, and tights. Often paired with frock coats, or leather-studded coats, it combined femininity with a hard edge. Which goes back to the battle theme of the show – structure and rebellion. Gaytten appealed to his inner Londoner – pure Anglophilia swept this collection, a true homage to many trademark era’s of London!
Rick Owens Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear
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humpback.
Rick Owens always brings metaphor to life in the most shocking way. His shows are never about just clothes, they are comments on society, his ideas of women past and present, and general questioning of life. This show, no different. Dark, loose, wrinkled, short, sheer, nude these pieces inspired power and strength in new more literal way. Every so often a model would turn down the runway with another model strapped and strewn over her. A shocking sight used to depict the idea of female strength. The idea, Owens mentioned backstage, of when carrying the weight of those around them and the physical toll it takes. It was a beautiful representation of burden carried with grace.
“The selfie you want to be in, is Blasberg’s.” The Truman Capote of our generation – as stated in nearly every article written about Derek Blasberg (coined by The New York Times). Derek Blasberg is an author, editor, host, and personality. He has written for Harper’s Bazaar, is Vanity Fair’s “Our Man on the Street” and host of CNN’s Style TV. Above being a New York Time’s best-selling author and social media mogul, Derek is best known for his roster of high profile celebrity connections and being an undeniable favorite amongst the fashion community. With nearly half a million Instagram followers alone, Blasberg is equally as well liked online as he is in person. His credentials are shrouded in mystery. Blasberg grew up in Missouri but attended NYU in 2000. His connections run far and deep from Bernard Arnault to Kendall Jenner. No one is exactly sure what he “does”
or how he rose to prominence so quickly, but one thing is for sure – no one is mad at it. He’s everywhere at once, a “professional best friend of celebrities” as put by Gwyneth Paltrow, but Blasberg would consider himself a journalist. Derek Blasberg is a pioneer of Mobile Journalism, as he truly puts the SOCIAL in social media. What makes his content so engaging is that the relationships he has seem truly genuine. The energy in his photos, captions, and articles are sincere and the charisma radiates through the screen. He is a professional inspiration, but a thoroughly decent human being as well.
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Becoming the new creative director of an established fashion brand comes with it’s own set of obstacles. How does one persevere the legacy of those who have come before them without sacrificing their own aesthetic, creativity, and vision? How does one produce art and honor the namesake of a company while maintaining a distinct and voice for themself. Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent isn’t afraid of figuring that out for himself. He’s doing what he wants and isn’t concerned whether or not we like it.
brought Vaccarello the peace he needed in accepting the position: “You are not Yves Saint Laurent. Do not try to be Yves Saint Laurent.”
Before coming to Saint Laurent, Vaccarello was the creative director of his own eponymous label. Saint Laurent can be the bourgeois to Vaccarello’s street fashion. Something both shared between Yves and Anthony is the feeling of resisting the bourgeois, but ultimately playing into it. “The car is going faster, but the road is the same.” Vaccarello describes how the pace of his Past creative directors of Saint Laurent include Tom life as changed since being the new creative director Ford, Alber Elbaz and, most recently, the notorious of Saint Laurent. He admits that everything he is doing and considerably most popular, Hedi Slimane. Of all is the same “just more beautiful.” He still works long the creative talent to have worked in Maison Saint Lau- hours. He’s still working with the same crew. Now, he rent, Vaccarello only considered the advice of Pierre just has access to finer things he did not have before. Bergé, partner of cofounder of Yves Saint Laurent. In that personal meeting, one piece of advice from Bergé Going against the bourgeois is different for Vaccarello
than it was for Saint Laurent. Though Yves began his career as a “whimsical recluse” he lived his life in excess, a true Maria Antoinette of his time. Vaccarello remains a soft-spoken boy with a strong sartorial voice. His designs are often described with words like “trashy,” “skimpy,” “sexbot,” “mischievous.” He is punk and inspired by the femme fatales of the 80s. Not typical of a bourgeois. Yves took fought by taking a bourgeois and making her strong, equal to a man, as he did with Le Smoking. A woman in a pants suit at the time was the definition of defiance. Anthony Vaccarello and Yves Saint Laurent share a similar spirit and that is what he will carry on through the clothes. He is not interested in creating similar looks, or reimagining what Yves, or any of his predecessors have done, but creating something that is his and that carries the spirit of Saint Laurent. The Saint Laurent woman is in control of her body. Vaccarello emphasizes that being nude or wearing sheer for a woman should be empowering – this is because they are on the same level as a man. It is not to be sexual or seductive, but to be without shame and not feel like she has to hide any part of her. So while Vaccarello isn’t seeking anyone’s approval, he is attempting to make reference to the late and greats, but define the brand in his own words, with his own voice.
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Fashioning Gender
“We’re all born naked and the rest is drag.” Possibly the most famous quote of Supermodel of the World, RuPaul Charles. RuPaul rose to prominence in the early 90s as “club kid” culture began to rise in heat. Then some referred to RuPaul as “Queen of New York!” Ru has spoken openly as believing that your body is just a vessel so do whatever you want to it. Use every crayon in the box! Expression and identity is important to RuPaul, but the idea of gender is not. The soul and the spirit is what is important and what will last. Whether he wants to dress in a dress or be referred to as She, that doesn’t necessarily make someone more or less a woman or a man and shouldn’t particularly matter. RuPaul’s star began to rise in New York and became mainstream. He began recording music, appearing on popular television shows, and becoming a brand all of
himself. Recently he launched a reality competition show RuPaul’s Drag Race that is often referred to as “the Olympics of drag” which is shining a light on drag culture and LGBTQ issues. The show as grown in popularity over the year and inspires a lot of the millennial linguistics we hear now. RuPaul is not bond by the idea of “gender” and what is or isn’t appropriate to wear/behave as a boy or a girl. He is RuPaul Charles in and out of drag and a star of his own making.
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Hocus Pocus 15
“We bind you Donald Trump from doing harm. Harm against others and harm against yourself.” Who knew that The Craft would be such an applicable movie in this time of political turmoil? Covens across America are coming together Friday at midnight to cast a binding spell on Donald Trump with the help of the waning crescent moon. T he Facebook Group “Mass Spell to Bind Donald Trump Feb. 24th” is inviting us all to participate in a standard binding spell to block the current US President from harming others or himself. The Trump administration has been causing a lot drama with the travel ban, and more recently reversing the bathroom guidance for trans youth, and the witches of Eastwick have had it! So, what is a binding spell and how does it work? If you recall in the movie The Craft, Nancy Downs, leader of a high school coven gains an exorbitant amount of power and begins to act out (much like the teenage princess sitting in the oval office). In order to stop Nancy’s murder spree, sweet angel Sarah Bailey performs a binding spell, which literally traps Nancy and prevents her from killing her. Now, in this case a binding will have less of a physical effect as it will “rip the bullhorn from his hands” and “smash his phone so he can’t tweet.” A binding spell differs from a curse or a hex, as the latter are intent to inflict harm. Binding however is a preventive measure and also works as a self-exorcism to expel any negative energy the Trump
administration has had on you. It’s the best of both worlds! The witches plan on performing the binding spell on every crescent moon until the President is out of office. Singer Lana Del Rey is even participating – tweeting out: At the stroke of midnight Feb 24, March 26, April 24, May 23 Ingredients can b found online. Michael Hughes posted the recipe and directions online on Extra News Feed with more about the tradition of binding spells and how you can participate with witchcraft really isn’t your thing. I will be getting my bippity-boppity-boo on tonight, how about you? Tweet @jehxshua if your coven is getting into formation!
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Meet the Model Miles McMillan Online Exclusive
Inspired by the lack of knowledge about models and male models in particular. It is important to showcase models here at Unscouted because they play an integral part in the fashion industry, yet do not receive the notoriety they deserve for literally bringing designers art to life. The modeling industry is a world dominated by titans like Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, & Cara Delevingne, but, these women also have one major thing in common. Victoria Secret’s contracts! Yes, they have amazing careers outside of Victoria’s Secret but most Americans can only identify Victoria Secret models, if that. Their images are plastered on every TV, tablet, & billboard. You might find other models who aren’t affiliated with Victoria Secrets while you are flipping through magazines. You’ll see ads for Dior, or Dolce & Gabbana, & usually have no clue who these models are, only that they are wearing a very expensive dress. Male models don’t have a career boosting equivalent to Victoria’s Secret and there are many other female models that aren’t Victoria Secret angels. MEET THE MODEL is intended to give you a little insight to the models that are making waves in the fashion industry yet you still may not know by name. - see more at jehoshuabrown.com/
I start my process by researching images, I get them from porn websites or getting lost in Tumblr.
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NEW BOYS
CONFIRMED: Fall / Winter 2017
New York Fashion Week: Men’s is kicking off today with some major guys to look out for this season. Here’s a mix of new faces and seasoned vets that are nodoubtedly establishing names for themselves in the industry. Shot by Greg Vaughan, in their own clothes, exclusively for Models.com - the creme of the crop show us that they have what it takes to be New York’s finest this season.
jacob bixman FORD
flint louis soul artist
dominik sadoch soul artist
geron mckinley CLICK
sheani gist red
jae yoo soul artist
jack mather soul artist
sol goss VNY
felix gesnouin VNY
zach cox IMG
Fashion Future
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“You guys are the lifeline of the industry,” were some of the closing words from one half of Public School designer Dao-Yi Chow. In a room with some of the brightest minds in fashion the energy was magnetic with the sense of something new on its way. With so many advancements taking place in the world of fashion, it was wonderful to be in a space that celebrated the core of what fashion is; needle to thread. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) created the Fashion Future Graduate Showcase, a two-day event bringing together students from Fashion Institute of Technology, Parsons School of Design, the Pratt Institute, Rhode Island School of Design, and our very own Academy of Art University. With the fashion industry making up a whooping 5% of New York City’s workforce, programs like CFDA’s Fashion Incubator and the Fashion Future Graduate Showcase are ways for the CFDA and NYCEDC to bridge talent and the workforce. Over the course of two days, 60 graduating designers gathered at the CFDA space in New York displaying pieces from their collections, moodboards, and brief descriptions of their final collection to fashion industry professionals with the hopes of establishing connections and perhaps landing full-time jobs. Each booth was marked with their name and a symbol corresponding to their collection (womenswear, textile design, sustainable fashion, etc). As a spectator you’re able to walk around the space as if at a trade show - speaking with the designers, feeling the clothes, seeing the swatches and learning more about their inspiration. The designers that were available to present their collections showed a vast amount of innovation and creativity. Dao-Yi in his opening statements encouraged the designers to persevere, after starting his brand Public School in 2008 which are just now beginning to be profitable. The road as an artist can be an arduous one, but listening to your instinct and having a clear point of view can lead to success. Yi also advised graduates to grasp that fashion is a business and
learn how to juggle art and commerce, which makes wisdom that spoke to the advancements seen in techpartnerships like CFDA x NYCEDC and Fashion Future nology and its effect on the changing business of proso beneficial to artist entering the workforce. ducing and selling clothing. As a testament to creating a foundation for students transitioning from receiving One of the AAU’s very own shined brightly during her their education to finding employment within the intime in New York City. As s BFA Fashion Design grad- dustry, the event aimed to bring awareness to helpful uate, Amanda Velasquez was greatly inspired by her business practices and strived to uplift the student time in Japan as a young girl. With her immense mem- through constructive feedback that is vital to their deories of her childhood, Velasquez created a collection velopment as young designers. that paid homage to the rich culture of Japanese fisherman, as well as, lori Tomita’s skeletal artwork. The event can only be summed up in one word; inspiring. Having the ability to meet in a such a welcomAnother dynamic presentation that took place during ing space was amazing. One of the biggest things we the event was Laura Hidaka, MFA Fashion Design. Tak- learned from the event is that though fashion contining cues from upbring in Hawaii, Hidaka gained inspi- ues to evolve with the rapid changes seen in society, ration from “traditional Hawaiian Kahiko Hula skirts,” we as a community of creatives must embrace the The textile and embroidery was also a direct correla- change and more importantly embrace one another’s tion to artist Henri Matisse. One of the many great great talents and aspirations to be successful. things about Hidaka’s collection was the playful nature of the pieces. Through uses of bright colors such as yellow and orange, the piece immediately made me smile and showcased a level of craftsmanship that embodied the warmth and nature of a Hawaiian summer day. The event also featured talks including Breakfast with Wen Zhou in Conversation with Bridget Foley and FJORD: Why Designing a Business is like Designing a Collection with John Jones and Claudia Gorelick of Fjord. Serving a platforms for conversation regarding the state of the fashion industry, the discussions were incredibility informative and provided designers with a true sense of encouragement regarding their paths within the ever-evolving fashion industry. As the chief executive of 3.1 Phillip Lim, Wen Zhou is a creative visionary that leads with her love for fashion. In conjunction with Bridgit Foley of WWD, Zhou discussed her humble beginnings to her aspirational journey through the fashion industry. “The world is your oyster; you have a global voice; you have a global reach,” were powerful words that set the course for Zhou’s dynamic message of determination and hard work in the world of fashion. FJORD: Why Designing a Business is like Designing a Collection with John Jones and Claudia Gorelick of Fjord focused on giving young designers fundamentals tools to creating collections that would become a firm foundation to beginnings of successful brands in the future. The idea of “exploring partnership in clothing,” and utilizing designer’s unique skill sets were words of
Fit to Frame
When asked the question “are skinny models really the best hangers for clothing?” I immediately think “yes.” If designers are just looking for “hangers” skinny models are the way to go. Modeling however, is much more than being a hanger. Modeling is about bringing clothes to life – so if a designer wants his or her clothes to be MODELED then no, skinny models aren’t always best in that regard. As opposed to the supermodel era, it doesn’t take much to be a model in this day and age. Being “beautiful” or “talented” comes second to being “tall and thin.” Knowing how to walk or sell a garment the way Linda Evangelista or Naomi Campbell did isn’t much of a prerequisite anymore. Designers tend to go for models because they fit their clothes rather than fitting a brand aesthetic. Skinny should not be a brand aesthetic. It doesn’t not differentiate one brand from another if their muse is only skinny. Unhealthy models do not bring LIFE to clothes. On the contrary, the emaciated look makes clothes look lifeless – lacking vibrance. Not only does that perpetuate unhealthy habits in models but also in those aspiring to be like the glamorous imagines they see in the media.
There are ways to be healthy and thin. However thin shouldn’t always be the goal. The average woman or man does not look like the models in the magazines. I don’t think they should. Fashion is about lofty dreams and escapism – but models like Whitney Wells, Toccara Jones, and Ashley Graham show that you don’t have to be stick skinny to be a working model. Those girls however still lend to a archetype – the Marylin Monroe, Busty Beauty. A seductress. What needs change is fashion’s portrayal of what is beautiful and not categorize beauty by body shape. By placing girls into “plus size” or “fiercely real” (as Tyra Banks would say) we still segregate beauty by placing one above another. Same goes for male models. Men are beefy or they are frail. They are always tall. Designers should design with those ideas in mind. Create different sizes – allow models to be different and showcase a well rounded line that allows anyone to fit into them.
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Immediacy in Fashion
“If we accept that the pace of fashion today was part of the problem behind the decline of John Galliano, the demise of Alexander McQueen and the cause of other well-known rehab cleanups, nonstop shows seem a high price to pay for the endless “newness” demanded of fashion now.” - Suzy Menkes.
Everyone wants to be at a show, everyone wants to be at the closing party, and everyone wants to be on the edge of the what’s coming next. They won’t however buy half the things that go down the runway. In the past years, fashion has become more of an experience than just a business, and that is the slope it slipped on.
Fashion has always been a brat. The child that wants everything and wants it now. But with as many as a possible 10 shows a year, are designers under too much pressure to produce sellable yet unique, quality clothing? At what point does artistic integrity take a back seat to meet product demands? Or is the pressure too intense that it drives talent to their demise?
In Vanity Fair’s 2014 September issue, a piece called “Designed for Disaster” Maureen Callahan depicts the relationship between Alexander McQueen & Isabella Blow. It goes deep into McQueen’s rise to fashion fame with the help of Blow, their shared insecurities, and how fashion chewed them up and spit them out. Similarly, Alicia Drake’s “A Beautiful Fall” illustrates Yves Saint Laurent’s young rise to prominence and the When a designer has to juggle multiple lines to make struggles he went through at Dior and in building his deadlines for minor shows the work for their major own house. Though at two different times in fashion, shows suffer. Designers don’t have enough time to both Saint Laurent and McQueen faced the harsh focus on their true art - which is what fashion is, right? demands of the pace of fashion and were ultimately Art? Suzy Menkes in an article for The New York Times damaged by it. The true question shouldn’t be “is the says, “Picasso did not churn out work like factory-baked pace of fashion hurting the quality of the clothes?” but cookies!” I’m actually unsure if the demand for prod- is fashion hurting the designers and talent that drive uct derives from the consumer, or if the fashion wheel it? is catching momentum as it rolls downhill to a crash. But the hunger to see fashion is definitely on a rise. 49
Instagram’s Secret Societies
Instagram Comment Pods are a fairly new underground ring of like-minded users designed to like and comment on eachother’s posts in order to boost visibility and engagement. The idea is that the more engagement a post has in the first five minutes will increase the posts visibility allowing it to reach more users. According to Pod members (via @Racked), Instagram’s algorithm presents posts it perceives as popular (based on early engagement) higher on users timelines and perhaps even in their Explore page. Instagram’s timeline used to be linear, meaning it showed posts in chronological order, but now ranks posts and shows them to users based on their engagement patterns.
still a great way to connect with users of with similar interests. Instagram isn’t so easy to figure out as it’s Facebook counterpart. Being successful on Instagram takes a bit more than a few likes and comments from the same group of people, and it’s algorithm is based on each individuals engagement habits
The idea behind Pods are that the first five minutes after posting are the most crucial. High engagement during this time determines the success of your post. For the most part, these Pods are spread by wordof-mouth. People either hear from a friend or fellow follower. Facebook grooup InstaRevealed made a way for like-minded posters to find their Pod and connect. However, studies suggest that Instagram’s algorithm doesn’t work the way Pods think they do. But are a 51
Our Perez Hilton
Cathy Horyn is a critic with a sharp and cutting opinion. She is divisive yet remains an important figure in the fashion community. Her critiques are often subjective; instead of just writing an unfavorable review, she tends to get personal, revealing moments shared with the designer which casts a light on how she views the collection. In an open letter to Horyn, Oscar de la Renta once commented on her pointed critiques, saying, “what I do not accept is when criticism is personal. If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger?” Her salty reviews have led her to be banned from several designer shows including Carolina Herrera, Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. She is the bitchy celebrity blogger of fashion. Our Perez Hilton. However shady Cathy can be, she does not go without attempting to relay a bit of truth. Her reviews are not all hate negative, or hateful (she has a soft spot for Raf Simons and tends to review him favorably). She points out what the industry turns a blind eye to, like Kanye West’s unwarranted praise, and Anna Wintour’s “deal-making.” Yet still, Cathy Horyn is known more for her public feuds than her professionalism – something many say she is without. Horyn started her career in 1986 at The Detroit News, but began working in fashion in 1990 when she moved to Washington to work for The Washington Post. It is when she began working for The New York Times in 1998 did she produce her most notably works. Like in a round-up review entitled “Collections Where the Beauty Is in the Surprise” in which she refers to Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2006 show as “remarkably irrelevant.” How dare she. In “Kanye West Hasn’t Graduated Fashion School Yet” Horyn responded to the positive feedback of his Adidas show. Horyn pens, “I relate the generally positive response it produced to Stockholm syndrome, a creeping problem in the fashion world, don’t you think?” But don’t let the shade distract from the point she’s making. Where are his credentials? Being a fan of fashion and petitioning for years to be granted entry to the industry isn’t enough. “His merits as a designer are still in doubt. And it seems to me that the fashion world should be holding West’s feet to the fire — expecting more integrity and discipline from him. After all, he still seems to need our approval.” Our approval. Cathy feels that she’s amongst peers. Hedi Slimane, a long time rival, considers her a publicist under the
guise of a critic. At least in his eyes, her place in fashion might be just a warped as Kanye’s. Horyn’s review of Saint Laurent’s Spring 2017 collection still had some not-so-kind remarks about Slimane, although YSL’s new creative director Anthony Vaccarello designed this particular collection. Her poisonous pen strikes again stating, “Most fashion insiders were regularly astonished at the trashiness of Slimane’s clothes — the fact that his baby-doll dresses and miniskirts seemed a pricier version of what you could get at Forever 21.” Need some ice for that burn? It’s like Katy Perry and Taylor Swift all over again. Baby, now we got bad blood!
If you have the right to call me a hot dog why do I not have the right to call you a stale 3-day old hamburger? As for Vaccarello, Horyn was not impressed but hopeful. “I kept thinking, C’mon, man, make me smile. Do something witty. My hope is that Vaccarello will find a fresher entry into Yves’s wicked world than a seethrough blouse.” Like she said, Y is back in YSL but not much else, yet. Horyn is also able to acknowledge the growth of designers she once spitfire at…on occasion. Alexander Wang for one received a glowing review of his Spring 2017 collection after consistently being knocked down by Horyn season’s prior. “In the past, I’ve ragged Wang for being lazy or under the influence of avant-garde designers like Rei Kawakubo, who are already way out of his league and moderate price range. Actually, I’ve always thought Wang was at his best imagining what it was like to be a lazy, sleepy, horny kid at the height of an American summer. And there you have it: a recipe for success in 2016-17. Stick with what you know.” A true queen of being “nice nasty,” the art of throwing
55 shade under the cloak of a compliment. ut true compliments come shade-free. We see that in B any and all discussions of Raf Simons, “a man who gets women.” She seems very sympathetic towards him in her style. “’You know, we did this collection in three weeks,’ he tells me, not defending the show but, rather, stating the reality that now faces high-fashion houses.” She even defends him in a sense so that the reader receives the exact idea of Simons she wants us to. Here in a review from 2006 on his Jil Sander collection she does it again. After mentioning a few artists that she admires learning that Simons knows of them as well. In noting that, she quickly follows with “I do not mean to suggest that they were a source of inspiration; not at all,” so that we would not create any negative notions about Raf’s collection on her accord. Needless to say, when she likes you she really likes you. Creating a negative notion of someone is her niche, so to protect someone from that is the true light in her otherwise murky soul. Reviewing Cathy’s materials over the past few years did not uncover anything about her that may be “redeemable.” She is a polarizing critic - someone to take with a grain of salt or to be viewed as entertainment value. Throughout the years Horyn’s tone has been consistent. There is a certain flow with her work, which shouldn’t be described as ‘flow.’ Sentences are fast and usually followed by stab of wit or sarcasm. She plays favorites. She says what she wants without regard, and she also happens to be very intelligent in regards to her subject matter. Her longevity is a mystery considering all the bridges she’s burned, but for her they just light the way!
“Wang was at his best imagining what it was like to be a lazy, sleepy, horny kid at the height of an American summer. And there you have it: a recipe for success in 2016-17. Stick with what you know.”
Meet the Model Justin Petszchke
Justin Petzschke is a 17-year-old model from Hamburg Germany and is a New Face at Soul Artist Management.I sat down with Justin on a velvet sapphire blue couch in Soul’s office in New York City to discuss his passions and how he maintains himself mind, body, and soul. At the dawn of his career he has already walked for Versace and shot with Bruce Weber. His cover of Document Journal shot by Bruce Weber received over 1100 likes on Instagram, a first post to get over 1k likes for the agency. Today, in the middle of the work week, Justin is more than excitied to see where is career will lead him next. Boarding a plan back to Germany in just a few days, here is what Justin has to say about his workout routine and how he was discovered at the age of 14. How did you start modeling? Funny story. It started at school when I was 14 years old. I was on a trip with my class in Hamburg at an arts museum. A guy came up to me and told me “you’re kind of pretty can you maybe call me in 3 or 4 years when you’re older and taller” and I did that. He called Christian at PMA, my mother agency and I had a casting with him. He liked me so he signed me. That’s how it all started. I was one-in-a-half or two years with my modeling agency but I didn’t get any jobs because my body maybe wasn’t good enough so far and then I was surprised that 2 months ago was my first job walking for Versace. The first thing I ever done! And I hope now I will have success. It’s my dream now to get better. I like doing this. I like music and art and modeling. When did you become interested in fitness? Last year was my last year of school and I had to choose a profile in the school system, like a sports profile or a chemistry profile. I chose sports profile so I do a lot of running, mountain biking, soccer, whatever, all of the stuff. I do all of their sports and I work out everyday in the gym at nighttime mostly. I have soccer practice four times a week and kickboxing twice a week. So, I do a lot of sports and when I’m bored on the weekend I sometimes just go for a run outside in the forest. Tell me more about how you like to use fitness to maintain a positive attitude. I think without sports I couldn’t focus like when I’m in a bad mood. Or if school is too much for me, just to rest a bit, well… sports is not rest I guess, but for me it’s to get everything out. It helps to get all of my troubles out of my mind and just relax and keep calm. To calm down. To pour out all my problems, family problems, school problems, if they exist. What is your workout routine?
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On a normal day in Germany, I go to school. My sports practices are Monday and Thursday. Monday I have sports class, after school I go to the gym for an hour or hour and half. Later I have soccer practice. So about three sports a day. Do you have a favorite?
Any advice for someone trying to succeed in fitness or modeling? After seeing a little success, there’s something behind it so keep working out harder and harder. Keep going. Don’t stop, you’ll see something. Someday you will get to your goal.
My favorite is… it’s hard. I like all of them! In kickboxing, Follow Justin on Instagram @justinpetzschke and if I’m feeling aggressive or angry I can get it all out. But I check out his portfolio at SoulArtistManagement.com. also like being on a team and talking to people with an open mind, so I like to play soccer. That’s my favorite sport in Germany. It’s probably the most famous sport in Germany. You meet new friends; your teammates are all nice, you talk about soccer, you feel like you’re a part of a family. A soccer family. I also like the gym because first when I started working out I didn’t see any success or any change in my body. I hated the gym. I was like, “the gym sucks! It’s stupid. Why am I even trying to work out and nothing’s happening?” What to do eat to stay fit? Do you keep a diet or not eat certain foods or do you just eat whatever you want and just work out a lot? [chuckle] Yeah, definitely because I work out so much I can eat whatever I want to. But that could also be my gene. Maybe when I turn 21 or something it will change a little bit. But I think because I do so many sports and my stamina is pretty good I won’t gain weight too much. I mean, I want to gain weight, not fat, but be a bit bigger so that’s my goal. So everyday I practice to get bigger for definition. Aside from working out, is there anything else you enjoy? Yes, I love music, because I am a musician. I like to play the guitar and sing. I sing in the choir in school. I sing in the school band. For one year, I was in Nashville Tennessee and I took a choir and guitar course. I also sing in the church, so I like music also but it’s at the same level, as I love sports. Which three words would you say describe you best? I think I’m super active, maybe hyperactive because I do so many sports haha. I think I’m a funny guy, and open-minded. I laugh a lot! I’m loyal.
Return of the Male
Supermodel
The fashion industry is definitely a “man’s world.” While the art and creation of fabulous clothes target women, there are shrewd businessmen that run this multi-billion dollar business. Interest in fashion and style is notoriously thought of as women’s interest. For the past few years interest in fashion and style has grown amongst men. This could be because men are now heading famous fashion houses like Gucci and Chanel as Creative Directors or because ideas of gender roles are shifting in society. More brands are creating unisex clothes and blurring the lines of what it means to be or look like a boy or girl. With the rise of interest in men’s fashion comes the creation of men’s fashion and the need for male models. Tyra Banks during an episode of America’s Next Top Model once said that male models are the woman’s accessory. In a photo they are about as important as a purse or shoe. Male model’s are always thought of as dumb, shallow, and only used for their body and good looks. Zoolander is a prime example of what many think the world is like for a male model. The male modeling industry was never very large and certainly not as impactful as the female counterparts. Models like Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Heidi Klum, and Linda Evangelista were able to make brands and businesses for themselves. They helped shape the fashion industry just as the designers who dressed them. The idea of a “male supermodel” is almost unheard of. There are few men who have made a lasting impression on the fashion industry and it seems as though the opportunity to become a “male supermodel” like David Gandy, Mark Vanderlloo and Tyson Beckford is more of an option now more than ever. Soul Artist Management is a boutique modeling agency based in New York City. They are known for their men’s board, representing some of the world’s biggest male models today. They board includes Tyson Beckford, River Viiperi, and new face Kit Butler. Jason Kanner, the founder and CEO was quoted saying, “There’s a real interest in the male model. I don’t think that’s going to change anytime soon. [Male models] can have longer careers than females. Just look at the careers of Markus Schenkenberg and Tyson Beckford. Those are careers that have spanned 20 years. Having proper management has aided this of course.” The SOUL man is the classic idea of what it means to be a beautiful man. Sexy and fit – a David of sorts. This look worked
well in the 80’s and 90’s but a more slender idea for male models have been more popular lately. Soul represents a few of this “skinny boys” but Jason wants to bring back the idea and look of an athletic healthy looking man not just cater to idea of being a twiggy 17-year-old-white-boy is the ideal of beauty. Jason is very interested in putting models back on the covers of magazines and “returning the male supermodel.” In an interview with Huffington Post he says, “I came into this business at the beginning of the supermodel era in the early ‘90s, and there was a lot of interest in the female models. And then the men came up right behind them and were almost equal to those girls — Marcus Schenkenberg, Joel West and Mark Vanderloo were toe-to-toe with Linda, Christy, Cindy, Naomi, what have you.” Details Magazine (before folding) put 31 male models on their September 2015 cover. Male models are creating aspirational and inspirational figures for men but in this cover you see that imagery is not one certain look. The cover is diverse and shows that style and good looks can be in any shade or tone. Models are becoming celebrities in their own right. Female models like Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Karlie Kloss use social media to build themselves as brands and provide an insight to their lives that was unavailable for models of days past. Male models are getting in on the action as well. The use of social media raises the amount of people can see the work that models do but also the behind the scene moments that create the images we see online and in magazines. River Viiperi and Pietro Boselli both have huge social media followings. Pietro is known as “the Worlds Hottest Math Teacher” he was an engineer and lecturer University College London. River Viiperi has been modeling since he was 17 and involved in serious relationship with heiress Paris Hilton that lasted almost 3 years. As the need for male models rise the opportunity for these men to create names and businesses for themselves rise as well. Men in the modeling industry and being able to inform the fashion industry in an impactful way and create lasting moments the way Naomi and Kate did. In 10 years maybe Pietro, River, or Kit will be featured in a Style Objects and Fashion Icons course for what they’ve contributed to the industry other than a killer body and charming smile. kit butler 63
Sick & Tired
shot by lloydtheabtrac
top by new look fashion jeans by topman shoes ysl
top by Menagerie necklace by grace personalized
A House On Fire
“The prodigal son returns.” – Alicia Adamczyk, Forbes Magazine
Is atonement possible?
John Galliano has resurfaced from the throws of fash“BRB cheering celebrating #gallianoformargiela” – Bry- ion exile as the new creative director of Maison Martin anBoy Margiela. This announcement made Monday morning jolted the fashion community with thrill and merri“Congratulations #JohnGalliano @jgalliano is back, ment. As Alicia Adamczyk of Forbes Magazine wrote, #YesLord, house of @maisonmargiela. @renzorosso “the prodigal son returns.” But this decision by Renzo #HappyMonday” – Naomi Campbell Russo, president of OTB Group, has left many questions for the audience. Mainly, after a drunken incident “John Galliano is back as creative director of @mais- in 2011, can Galliano be trusted? However, many are onmargiela!! @renzorosso #jgmargiela #greatidea” – more concerned with that this means for Maison MarAnna Della Russo tin Margiela and how the company will be moving forward. The houses namesake left in 2009 and a team of “JOHN GALLIANO is the new creative director of MAR- designers has since run Margiela. The house is known GIELA, I heard this rumor when I was in Paris and just notoriously for its anonymity and reclusive nature. No received confirmation this morning! It is very exciting one comes out to bow at the end of a show; the pubto see what powerful creatives do at different houses... lic sees no face. Only until recently when Suzy Menkes Hedi at Saint Laurent, Nicolas at Vuitton and now John dropped the name and backstage photo designer Matat Margiela.” – Kanye West thieu Blazy in July 2014’s Vogue UK did we gain insight to the house. The choice of John Galliano as creative director seems wholly contradictory of the maison’s legacy. He is known for his public appearance, larger than life personality, theatricality, and his more noteworthy bows at the end of shows - which sometimes were more extravagant than his shows themselves. Galliano graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in 1984 where his entire collection “Les Incroyables” was bought in full by Browns, a London boutique. He started his own fashion house soon after, now owned by LVMH, and thus began his legacy for dramatic yet superbly crafted clothes and runway performances. But with the success of his house came the rise of his social popularity and the beginning of what would change his career forever. Galliano, drawn to the nightlife, partied his way into bankruptcy in 1990. Financial troubles turned around for Galliano when Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley helped connect him to financial backers. This collection was created 70
all by a single bolt of fabric and held in Paris at The Palace of Versailles. He was named creative director of Givenchy in 1995 and soon after he moved to Dior, owned by LVMH in 1996 where he worked as the creative director for 15 years. At Dior did most of theatrical, sublime shows take place - like his haute couture collection in 2000 (photos below). In 2011 a video surfaced of Galliano drunkenly berating an Italian tourist at Paris bar, La Perle. His remarks were devastatingly racist and anti-sematic. These remarks jolted the fashion community with shame and a strong sense of betrayal. The boy wonder, which everyone loved and helped, now caught in such a precarious position. Natalie Portman, the face of Dior at the time, and other fashion figures such as Karl Lagerfeld spoke out against John Galliano and “his views” leveraging his being fired from Dior and his namesake house that year. Throughout the controversy however, few fashion figures stuck by his side. Close friend Kate Moss commissioned him to design her wedding dress that year. Since, Galliano had been committed to fashion wilderness. In 2013, having made several attempts to return to the community that built him (a stint at Oscar de la Renta for a season, attempts to teach at CSM & Parsons) Galliano sat down with Charlie Rose for an interview. In the interview he is shown the video that was published on The Sun, a British tabloid, and for an hour discusses (or tries to) what unfolded that night. After being removed from Dior, John sought treatment for drug and alcohol abuse in Arizona, USA. It was discovered that Galliano was a “black-out drinker” which is described as one not being capable of relating short term memory to long term memory and he recalls nothing from the night at La Perle. In an interview with Vanity Fair that same year Galliano states, “I never drank in order to be creative, or to do the research. I didn’t need alcohol for any of that. At first alcohol was like a crutch outside of Dior. Then I would use it to crash after the collections. I’d take a couple of days
to get over it, like everyone. But with more collections, the crash happened more often, and then I was a slave to it. Then the pills kicked in because I couldn’t sleep. Then the other pills kicked in because I couldn’t stop shaking. I would also have these huge bottles of liquor that people got for me. Towards the end, it was whatever I could get my hands on. Vodka, or vodka-and-tonic. Wine, in the belief it would help me sleep. Wrong. I did manage to stop the voices. I had all these voices in my head, asking so many questions, but I never for one second would admit I was an alcoholic. I thought I could control it.” He described his journey to sobriety as “day-by-day” as most people do, and with therapy tried to figure out where those thoughts could have come from in his subconscious, how to reconcile them, and how to atone for his actions. Fast forward to October 2014. Galliano, now sober for 3 years, returns to prominent fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. What risk does the house take by hiring Galliano who is the face of scandal? One that, though happened 3 years ago, has not been forgotten. What does allowing a convicted anti-sematic racist to be the face of a company say about the ethics and morals at Margiela and about the ethics and morals of those celebrating his return? On the appointment, Renzo Rosso says “I couldn’t be happier, for the Maison Margiela, which deserves a new visionary leader, and for John Galliano, who is a talent beyond definition and time. I always believed in brave, unpredictable choices and this one is no exception.” In the history of the arts, talent seems to trump morals. After all, fashion is a business, and someone with the talent of John Galliano is destined to make millions. Take Chris Brown for an example, though faced with the shame of abusing then girlfriend Rihanna, has been accepted back into the music industry due to his talents and ability to sell. On the other hand, how long do we allow a scandal to scar someone’s reputation? Galliano has taken steps to right his wrongs and grow personally. Is the slate wiped
clean? Some may say it’s too easy. Galliano has proven to be a creative genius and many questions are left unanswered. Robin Givan spoke with Nancy Pearlstein, owner of a Margiela retailer, and a Jewish woman. Pearlstein states that though she is disgusted by Galliano and Margiela’s choice of hiring him will continue to sell the brand. Galliano’s return to fashion poses a greater question to those in and outside of the fashion community. When and how do we hold someone accountable? And when and how do we forgive and forget? In January’s haute couture shows Galliano will debut at Margiela. Then, we will see if he holds the traditions of the house and the publics view on what’s sure to be his cinematic return.
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