Unscouted: Discovery by Unscouted

in this picture - Marjan Jonkman

Table of Contents LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

MEET THE MODEL

NEW FACES

SPRING SUMMER ‘16 COLLECTIONS

IMMEDIACY IN FASHION

DISCOVERY

FIT TO FRAME

editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s letter

Unscouted* puts a name to the faces you see on the runway and in the pages of magazines. This first issue is dedicated to putting models first and fashion second. These are the faces that make brands and build houses. These are the bodies that sell garments and advertisements. These are the stories behind the image. The mission of Unscouted is to provide our readeran insider look at fashion through the lens of models. We want to give models the credit they often go without and explore fashion through those that influence it directly. This first issue is important because it brings the mannequin to life.

in this picture - Baylee Soles, Kelsey Soles, Kyle Mobus, Sung Jin Park, Victoria Brito

in this picture - Rory Cooper

photo courtesy of

Miles McMillan*

are flipping through magazines. You’ll see ads for Dior, or Dolce & Gabbana, & usually have no clue who these models are, only that they are wearing a very expensive dress. Male models don’t have a career boosting equivalent to Victoria’s Secret and there are many other female models that aren’t Victoria Secret angels. MEET THE MODEL is intended to give you a little insight to the models that are making waves in the fashion industry yet you still may not know by name. Today, we start with one of our favorite male models... -

See

at:

unscouted.com

Inspired

by the lack of knowledge about models and male models in particular. It is important to showcase models here at Unscouted because they play an integral part in the fashion industry, yet do not receive the notoriety they deserve for literally bringing designers art to life. The modeling industry is a world dominated by titans like Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, & Cara Delevingne, but, these women also have one major thing in common. Victoria Secret’s contracts! Yes, they have amazing careers outside of Victoria’s Secret but most Americans can only identify Victoria Secret models, if that. Their images are plastered on every TV, tablet, & billboard. You might find other models who aren’t affiliated with Victoria Secrets while you

Follow Miles on Instagram @milesmcmillan

Seth

Roy VanLeeuwen

Ruben M. & Ruben F.

Valeryia Likhman

STATE MGMT

Soul Artist Management

We Are Models

Ego Model Management

presented by models.com

COLLECTIONS SPRING

Rick Owens 15

SUMMER 2016

Rick Owens always brings metaphor to life in the

most shocking way. His shows are never about just clothes, they are comments on society, his ideas of women past and present, and general questioning of life. This show, no different. Dark, loose, wrinkled, short, sheer, nude these pieces inspired power and strength in new more literal way. Every so often a model would turn down the runway with another model strapped and strewn over her. A shocking sight used to depict the idea of female strength. The idea, Owens mentioned backstage, of when carrying the weight of those around them and the physical toll it takes. It was a beautiful representation of burden carried with grace.

John Galliano 17

Romantic and eclectic: Bill Gaytten at John Galliano stayed true

to the houses namesake with exquisite tailoring and a flare for the dramatic. Structured blazers paired with hemmed above the ankle pants wafted down the runway along with delicate ruffled dresses, short skirts, and sheer polka-dot tights. It was a war of the classes – posh Englishmen vs punk South Londoners. The girls in dresses or skirts wore their hair down flowing, while others in more structured uniforms had their hair pulled back, slick. The highlight of Gaytten’s showing was the use of polka dot in shirts, dresses, pants, skirts, and tights. Often paired with frock coats, or leather-studded coats, it combined femininity with a hard edge. Which goes back to the battle theme of the show – structure and rebellion. Gaytten appealed to his inner Londoner – pure Anglophilia swept this collection, a true homage to many trademark era’s of London!

Alexander McQueen 19

scene pulled from the pages of a Jane Austen novel. Beautiful rosycheeked girls with tussled hair in breezy 17th century rose patterned dresses. This is one of Alexander McQueen’s “prettier” collections of recent years. Many of the looks that came down the runway at Alexander McQueen were a damsel in control. Soft embroidered dresses, and beautifully tiered ruffles – this woman was delicate yet sturdy. She needed no Prince Charming to come to her rescue. She is the King in (Mc)Queens’s clothes. “All I want to do is make women feel stronger,” said late Alexander McQueen once in an interview with style editor Tim Blanks many years ago in reference to his controversial “Highland Rape” collection. SS 2016 collection by Sarah Burton, current Creative Director at Alexander McQueen, however, does that in a smoother, less traumatic way. The collection was full of thin linear cuts and pale colors. The women were clad in chains at the bodice – exemplifying the “sturdiness” amongst soft feathered, and rose patterned dresses. “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft,” said Burton backstage. The designer spent her childhood growing up on the countryside. She meshed her personal experience with that of the house’s namesake – delicacy of her childhood memories with the strength that McQueen instills in each of his designs.

in this picture: Hana Jirickova

IMMEDIACY

IN FASHION

Is Fashion Moving Too Fast?

“If we accept that the pace of fashion today was part of the problem behind the decline of John Galliano, the demise of Alexander McQueen and the cause of other well-known rehab cleanups, nonstop shows seem a high price to pay for the endless “newness” demanded of fashion now.”

Fashion

has always been a brat. The child that wants everything and wants it now. But with as many as a possible 10 shows a year, are designers under too much pressure to produce sellable yet unique, quality clothing? At what point does artistic integrity take a back seat to meet product demands? Or is the pressure too intense that it drives talent to their demise?

When a designer has to juggle multiple lines to make deadlines for minor shows the work for their major shows suffer. Designers don’t have enough time to focus on their true art - which is what fashion is, right? Art? Suzy Menkes in an article for The New York Times says, “Picasso did not churn out work like factory-baked cookies!” I’m actually unsure if the demand for product derives from the consumer, or if the fashion wheel is catching momentum as it rolls downhill to a crash. But the hunger to see fashion is definitely on a rise. Everyone wants to be at a show, everyone wants to be at the closing party, and everyone wants to be on the edge of the what’s coming next. They won’t however buy half the things that go down the runway. In the past years, fashion has become more of an experience than just a business, and that is the slope it slipped on.

In Vanity Fair’s 2014 September issue, a piece called “Designed for Disaster” Maureen Callahan depicts the relationship between Alexander McQueen & Isabella Blow. It goes deep into McQueen’s rise to fashion fame with the help of Blow, their shared insecurities, and how fashion chewed them up and spit them out. Similarly, Alicia Drake’s “A Beautiful Fall” illustrates Yves Saint Laurent’s young rise to prominence and the struggles he went through at Dior and in building his own house. Though at two different times in fashion, both Saint Laurent and McQueen faced the harsh demands of the pace of fashion and were ultimately damaged by it. The true question shouldn’t be “is the pace of fashion hurting the quality of the clothes?” but is fashion hurting the designers and talent that drive it?

in this picture : Lucky Blue Smith

model - Jehoshua hat - urban outfitter shirt - american apparel

hat - urban outfitter shirt - american apparel umbrella - marc jacobs

hat - urban outfitter shirt - american apparel trousers - topman

hat - urban outfitter shirt - zara men

beanie - h&m shirt - american apparel

FIT TO FRAME MODELS VS. HANGERS

When asked the question “are skinny models really the best hangers for cloth-

ing?” I immediately thought “yes.” If designers are just looking for “hangers” skinny models are the way to go. Modeling however, is much more than being a hanger. Modeling is about bringing the clothes to life - so if a designer wants his or her clothes to be MODELED then no, skinny models aren’t always best in that regard. As opposed to the supermodel era, it doesn’t take much to be a model in this day in age. Being “beautiful” or “talented” comes second to being “tall and thin.” Knowing how to walk or sell a garment the way Linda Evangelista or Naomi Campbell did isn’t much of a prerequisite anymore. Designers tend to go for models because they fit there clothes rather than fitting a brand aesthetic. Skinny should not be an brand aesthetic. It doesn’t not differentiate one brand from another is their muse is only skinny.

Unhealthy models do not bring LIFE to clothes. On the contrary, the emaciated look makes clothes look lifeless - lacking vibrance. Not only does that perpetuate unhealthy habits in models but also in those aspiring to be like the glamorous imagines they see in the media. There are was to be healthy and thin. However thin doesn’t should always be the goal. The average woman or man does not look like the person in the magazines. I don’t think they should. Fashion is about lofty dreams and escapism - but models like Whitney Wells, Chrissy Teigen, and Kate Upton show that you don’t have to stick skinny to be a working model. Those girls however still lend to a archetype - the Marylin Monroe Busty Beauty. A seductress. What needs change is fashions portrayal of what is beautiful and not categorize beauty by body shape. By placing girls into “plus size” or “fiercely real” (as Tyra Banks would say) we still segregate beauty by placing one above another. Same goes for male models. Men are beefy or they are frail. They are always tall. Designers should design with those ideas in mind. Create different sizes - allow models to be different and showcase a well rounded line that allows anyone to fit into them.