Food & Drink

One-man band Oliver top of the crops

By Steve Keenan

newsdesk@ blackmorevale.net

With apple harvest beginning, it must give a cider producer that little extra juice to start picking when 1,000 people have just voted yours to be the best in show. The show was the Bath and West, where visitors paid £1 to blind taste six selected ciders and Oliver Dowding’s medium still cider stole the show. To pick up the People’s Choice award was a huge fillip for Oliver, who thinks his cider was selected for the taste-off as his medium won him his first Gold award at the Mid-Somerset show in August. “I still don’t know whose ciders I was up against at Bath and West,” says Oliver. “But I am ten times happier to know that 1,000 people chose mine rather than having two judges perceiving to be what are great ciders.” It’s an amazing accolade for somebody who only began dabbling in cider from his base in Shepton Montague five years ago. He was born in the village, ironically in Orchard House, and has never lived anywhere else. But Oliver was a dairy farmer until divorce forced him to sell his farm and herd in 2006. He kept 80 acres and rented 230 more and turned to arable farming. But the land included 10 acres of orchards and in 2016, he began making a little cider in a personal way, just 150 litres a year. “I thought there might be an opportunity here,” he said, and planted 500 more trees, a mix of eaters, cookers and cider apples. He also began buying in more eater apples, including from the National Trust’s Montacute House orchards last year when the café shut in the pandemic and was unable to make use of them. The first of his planted trees are now starting to produce fruit in addition to the original 10 acres. “Right now, 20% of the juice comes

from here and 80% is brought in. I’m very choosy where that comes from and, as the years go by, that proportion will change.” Oliver – brother of no-dig advocate Charles Dowding –produces dry and medium Dowding’s cider, both still and carbonated, as well as apple juice. He is effectively a one-man band, with marketing help from his partner Jane and casual labourers for picking, who are becoming more difficult to find.

The picking begins this month and is all done by hand, hard work but which at least allows for quality control from the off. The eaters get picked first for juice and the cider apples follow in November. In terms of volume, he now sells more apple juice than cider – partly because tax laws mean small cider producers stay under 7,000 litres capacity to avoid punitive taxation. But he is still expanding, with a big investment in equipment to produce the juice quicker and with better consistency. A new line comes soon – Breakfast Cider, which is low alcohol juice (1.2%) and what the French enjoy with a coffee and croissant. Meanwhile, he plans a marquee to host events and possibly a shepherd hut or two in the orchard. And will continue to sell at festivals and events, where his three- and five-litre cider pouches are popular. “It is a slog and anyone who tells you different is lying,” he says. “But I am convinced, as with the award, that we are doing the right things that people want. And I am also perfectly content with what I am doing.”

CORE SKILLS: Oliver Dowding at Shepton Montague. Inset: Some of his award-winning ciders

By Miranda Robertson

newsdesk@blackmorevale.net

Several Blackmore Vale producers have triumphed in the Great Taste Awards –including a prized three stars for a Somerton chocolatier. Craft House Chocolate scooped the top accolade for its Nicaragua O’Payo 69% dark chocolate with passion fruit and pineapple flavour notes. The bar only has three ingredients: cacao beans, cacao butter and unrefined sugar. Netty and Tammy Oakley-Prior moved to Somerton and opened their shop just two years ago, after Netty went from patisserie to chocolate-making in a midlife change of direction. Netty sources beans direct from farmers in South America to make her sumptuous bars, hot chocolates and cakes and even offers chocolate making courses and workshops, along with talks to local groups. Her micro-batches of chocolate are all sold to the public, as the process is too time consuming for wholesale. Tammy designs the artwork and packaging. Semley Honey, a tiny producer of local pure raw honey, scooped two stars for its £6 pots of gold produced at

Barkers Hill. Woodlands Dairy in Higher Shaftesbury Road, Blandford Forum, won two stars for its Melbury Cheese –a semi hard cheese made from organic yoghurt made with sheep milk from the organic sheep farm.

The Dorset Dairy Co in Stalbridge won two stars for its Dorset Strained Yoghurt, its Dorset Dairy Cultured Cream, its Dorset Cultured Butter and Dorset Cultured Butter – Seaweed Edition and one star for its Dorset Cultured Butter – Chilli Edition and its double cream. The award-winners were announced on September 21. Out of the 5,383 products worldwide to receive a Great Taste 1-, 2or 3-star accolade from the largest and most trusted food and drink awards on the planet, 497 are based in the South West. The awards follow 86 socially-distanced judging days in London and Dorset. Regardless of branding or packaging, each product is judged on a level playing field, according to its texture, appearance, composition and of course taste. Food critics, chefs, restaurateurs, retail buyers, cooks, producers and a host of food writers, journalists and social media influencers are among the 355 esteemed palates to have rigorously blind tasted and judged the 14,113 entries from 108 countries, while providing detailed written feedback for the producer. Every Great Taste award-winning product will now be able to display the unmistakable black and gold logo, a stamp of excellence recognised by retailers and consumers alike. All Great Taste 3-star award-winning products will be re-judged to find this year’s regional Golden Fork Trophy winners and the Great Taste Supreme Champion 2021. These final results will be announced at the Great Taste Golden Fork Reception on Sunday, October 17, at the Yorkshire Event Centre in Harrogate following the first day of Fine Food Show North, a trade-only exhibition organised by the Guild of Fine Food. Established in 1994, Great Taste is organised by the Guild of Fine Food and is the world’s largest, longest standing and most respected food accreditation scheme for artisan and speciality food producers.

CHOC A BLOC: Netty Oakley-Prior with her certificates from the Great Taste Awards. Inset below: Cacao beans

You’ve got Great Taste, and here’s a prize to prove it

Here’s a list of other winners in the Blackmore Vale:

TWO STARS

n Madjeston milk station, Newhouse Farm, (between Madjeston and Sherstock), Gillingham, for its double cream from free range, grass fed pedigree Ayrshire cows. (£2.80) n A Jar Of, of Droop Farm, Hazelbury Bryan, Awarded for its Spicy Tomato Kasundi Chutney –a fresh tomato based chutney cooked in cider vinegar and Indian Spices with fiery birds eye chillies. Cooked long and slow in small batches. (£3) n Solkiki Chocolatemaker of Thornford, for Sakura Cherryleaf 65% Dark Milk Chocolate with Gran Palo cacao. 65% dark milk choc with cherryleaf tea and umesalt-pickled Sakura blossom. Edible; stalks & all. n Blandford Wan Ling Tea House, School Lane, Blandford Forum, for its Mei Zhan Oolong Tea, a handmade, baked oolong tea, directly sourced, high elevation, traditional made oolong tea using Mei Zhan cultivar leaf. Slow baked over wood to produce a balanced flavour and aroma. (£40). n Griffin Spirit Company, Castle Cary, for Luxury London Dry Gin, small batch distilled in a traditional copper pot still. Home grown fresh limes and locally source where possible 18 botanicals, kaffir lime leaves, mint and chamomile chosen for beneficial healing properties. n Somerset Spirit Company Ltd of Castle Cary, for Milk Vodka. Handcrafted in Somerset using locally sourced ingredients. Craft House Chocolate, Somerton, for Honduras 85% Single Origin Hot Chocolate. n Rye Bakery of Frome, for Candied Citrus & Pistachio Biscotti – a Classic Italian Biscuit made with house made candied orange peel, organic almonds and pistachios and toasted fennel seeds. n Gorges Cooks of North Cadbury, for Gorges Cooks Granola - Fennel & Aleppo Pepper – an ideal store cupboard staple to scatter on hummus, soups, salads, roast vegetables, baked fish/camembert and vegan bowls. Also their original granola. (£4.50) n Percy’s Bakery Limited of Yeovil, for Cuoco Milk Chocolate & Salted Caramel Thins made with 100% sustainably sourced cocoa (£3) n Hewletts Mill of Galhampton, for Hewletts Mill Old Winchester and Toasted Fennel Seeds Sable dough – a delectable savoury Sable dough using high quality ingredients including Wessex Mill flour, Old Winchester cheese, Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, grass fed cows’ butter, toasted fennel seeds, sea salt, mustard powder and cayenne pepper. Also awarded for Rosemary and Pecan Sable dough – a savoury sable dough ready to be cooked to produce a buttery, melt in the mouth savoury biscuit. The perfectly balanced layers of Stilton, Rosemary and Pecans can be tasted as they melt in the mouth. (£5.95) n Artfarm Ltd t/a Durslade Farm Shop of Bruton, for its Durslade Farm Lamb Shoulder from Exlana breed sheep. (£11.50 per kilo). Also, its Durslade Farm Sirloin Steak from Wagyu x Angus cross breed cattle. (£35 per kilo) Norseland Ltd of Ilchester, for its Jarlsberg® Reserve – a fullbodied, sweet and nutty cheese with fruity overtones, matured for a minimum 12 months and made from the finest milk. (£15/kg)

nSemley Honey and, below, Melbury Cheese ONE STAR

n Meggy Moo’s Dairy, Park Farm, Shroton, for its Meggy Moo’s Unhomogenised Whole Milk (£1.20 per litre) n Angel Cottage Organics of Haddon Copse Farm, Woodrow, Fifehead Nevillle, for its Whole Organic Chicken (£9.25 per kg). Minimum 90 days-old organic, pasture-reared, organic chicken. n Lavender Blue Bakery, at Brickfields Business Park in Gillingham, won a star for its Chocolate Salted Caramel Roulade. n Christine’s Puddings for Christine’s Sticky Toffee Ginger Pudding, (gluten-free) produced in Bath Road, Sturminster Newton. n Harry Street Meats of Stable Lodge, Sixpenny Handley, for its Christmas Turkey, a free range bronze hen bird, 26 weeks old. Hand plucked, hung for a minimum of 10 days. (£10.89£12.39 per kilo depending on total weight). n Mackaness-Loyd Foods of Semley, for its Mrs Mack’s Organic Poppyseed dressing. (£4) An organic salad dressing with fresh onion juice, sunflower oil, balsamic vinegar, mustard powder, sea salt, poppy seeds and raw cane sugar n A Jar Of, of Droop Farm, Hazelbury Bryan, for its Aubergine Chutney – described as ‘Not a pretty chutney!’ Aubergine cooked slowly with coriander, cumin, fenugreek, fennel and ginger, with fresh green chillies for a hint of heat, cider vinegar and orange juice. Cooked in small batches. (£3) n Global Harvest Ltd of Gillingham, for its Bittersweet Orange Membrillo, a fresh orange fruit pulp purée combined with sugar, lemon concentrate and orange bitters, cooked in a slow traditional manner, resulting in a sweet, fresh, zingy condiment for duck liver paté or even chocolate desserts. (£4.95) n Solkiki Chocolatemaker of Thornford, for 67% Organic Dark Chocolate with Samphire – Gran Palo Blanco – Piura, Peru. 67% dark chocolate with wild, handpicked Samphire from Devon SSSI. Organic Peruvian fine cacao. Microlot. Another star for its

Bourbon Smoked 64% Darkmilk Chocolate with Costa Esmeraldas cacao – a 64% dark milk chocolate infused with Bourbon smoke. Organic Ecuadorian fine cacao. Imported directly from family estate, made from bean-tobar. Infused by hand. Another star for its olive wood smoked 62% Dark Milk Chocolate with Gran Chililique cacao – a 62% dark milk chocolate infused with Olive wood smoke. Organic Peruvian fine cacao. Imported directly from family estate, made from bean-tobar. Infused by hand. Another star awarded for Applewood Smoked 63% Dark Milk Chocolate with Gran Nativo cacao – a 63% dark milk chocolate infused with Applewood smoke. n Lyons Hill Farm, Lyons Gate, for its Portland Hogget – a slow maturing, ancient rare breed which has enjoyed two summers grazing wild herbs and grasses on unimproved, Dorset pasture. n Wan Ling Tea House Can Sai ‘Competition’ Guan Yin Wang. Also Competition grade hand made Anxi Tie Guan Yin Oolong tea from high mountain tea garden. Highly floral aroma. Selected tea leaves from Xiang Hua village. n Hall and Woodhouse, Blandford St Mary, Awarded for several ales – Badger Fursty Ferret, Badger Tanglefoot, Milk Made - Bottle Conditioned stout, Bottle Conditioned Chocolate, Coconut and Vanilla Milk Stout. nMounters Gin, Marnhull, for Mounters13 Gin, a London dry gin, copper distilled with botanicals blend juniper and coriander with a floral and berry mix, while citrus and ginger bring a lively contrast. Settled with spring water, this is a spirited London Dry Gin. (£38). n Perry’s Cider, Dowlish Wake, Ilminster, for its Barn Owl and Dabinett ciders (£2.80) n The Newt in Somerset, Bruton, for The Newt Fine Cyder, cold fermented, fine cyder made from a cuvee of light, aromatic apples. Also The Newt Rose Cyder, a single variety rose cyder made solely from the redlove variety. (£11.95) n Friary Liqueurs Ltd of Frome, for Somerset Dry Gin, Christmas London Dry Gin and Rose & Hibiscus London Dry Gin made using the London Dry Method. (£36) n Craft House Chocolate of Somerton, for Madagascar 65% Single Origin Hot Chocolate. n Easy Bean Ltd of Mudford, for Chickpea Crispbread Seeds & Black Pepper. A naturally glutenfree, hand baked with chickpea flour seasoned with black pepper topped with toasted seeds; pumpkin sunflower golden linseed & nigella. (£3.15) n Godminster Vintage, of Bruton, for Godminster Oat, Milk and Honey Biscuits – a biscuit for cheese produced in small batches featuring a delicious combination of oats, milk and honey. Also Godminster Beetroot and Nigella Seed Crackers – a gently spicy cracker with a good crunch of nigella seeds paired with the earthy warmth of seasonal beetroot. And, Godminster Charcoal and Cumin Seed Crackers – a crisp charcoal cracker that is peppered throughout with deliciously spicy cumin seeds. n Percy’s Bakery Limited of Yeovil, for Cuoco White Chocolate & Lemon Curls All butter shortbread, enrobed in lemon flavoured white chocolate, laden with white chocolate curls. 100% sustainable cocoa (£3.25) n Hewletts Mill of Galhampton, for Gluten-Free Sable dough, a ready to bake savoury Sable dough using high quality ingredients including Organic Stoneground Wholemeal Buckwheat flour, Italian Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, cheddar cheese, butter, SunDried Tomatoes, Black Olives and Thyme. (£5.95) n Cary Orchard Preserves, Somerton, for Fresh Fig & Earl Grey Preserve – Fresh figs macerated with cane sugar and Earl Grey tea. Cooked with Bramleys and lemon, and enhanced with bergamot oil. Hand-made in small batches. (£4) n Gorges Cooks of North Cadbury. Apricot & Ginger granola. (£6.50) n Cary Orchard Preserves of Somerton, for Kashmiri Chilli Jam, made with apricots and bramleys, cooked slowly in small batches, with Kashmiri chillies, and a blend of spices for complexity and warmth. For cheese boards, toast and barbeques. (£4) n West Country Water Buffalo, of Chilthorne Domer. Water Buffalo Bresaola – cured meat Bresaola made from silverside water buffalo meat. (RRP £80/kg). Also Buffalicious Mozzarella. Hand stretched in the traditional way to create pasta filata, which is then formed by a former to create balls with a mozz cut. (RRP £3.30-£3.50) n Feltham’s Farms Ltd, of Templecombe, for its Rebel Nun –a soft and pungent organic cow’s milk cheese with a hint of blue (but rarely to be seen). Washed and rubbed in ale. (£8.99)3 n As Raw As of Somerton, for its Organic Raw Chocolate Chilli Peanut Truffle – Peanut butter combined with unroasted cacao butter, maple syrup and a hint of chilli, topped with 65% unroasted dark chocolate and an activated peanut. Handmade in small batches free from dairy, gluten and soy. 100% natural & organic ingredients. (£7.80 for a box of 6 truffles)

nChristine’s Puddings and, below, Craft House Brownies

Cooking...

with Mrs Simkins

Fairy Toasts

Just the thing for a light autumnal lunch or supper, this substantial snack is based on an old northern recipe. ‘Fairy’ most likely refers to ‘fairy rings’: the dainty rings of wild mushrooms that appear in grassland in September – or maybe because it’s such a spellbinding combination.

Ingredients Serves 2-4 40g (1½ oz) butter 1 tablespoon oil 250g (9oz) mushrooms, sliced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped (or squeeze of garlic puree) 25g (1oz) plain flour 300ml (½ pint) milk Freshly ground black, ground white, and cayenne pepper, to taste ¼ teaspoon ground mace (or generous grinding of nutmeg) A little sea salt, to taste 4 slices of bread, not too thickly cut 50g (2oz) mature Cheddar cheese, grated 3-4 sprigs parsley, finely chopped

Method Melt the butter in a lidded pan, add the oil, and cook the mushrooms slowly, until soft and succulent. Sprinkle the flour over the mushrooms and stir in well. Cook for three minutes, stirring frequently, over a medium heat. Gradually add the milk, a little at a time, stirring constantly. Season with the different peppers, mace, and salt. Once the sauce is smooth, turn up the heat a little and simmer until thick, stirring constantly. Meanwhile, toast the bread lightly on both sides: cool slightly so the steam escapes. Pile the mushroom mixture evenly on top of each slice (you won’t need butter) spreading it out to the edges. Scatter thickly with the cheese and grill until the cheese is bubbling. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately. Utterly delicious.

n MrsSimkins.co.uk n twitter.com/ MrsSimkinsCooks n info@MrsSimkins.co.uk

Mum’s Kitchen...

with Diana Holman

I have been making this lovely vegetarian recipe since the early 80s, and have never tired of it. Creamy Leek Croustade Serves 6 Ingredients 175/6oz fresh wholemeal breadcrumbs 50g/2oz butter 100g/4oz Cheddar cheese (extra mature is good) 100g/4oz chopped mixed nuts ½ teaspoon dried mixed herbs 1 garlic clove, crushed Sauce 3 medium sized leeks 4 tomatoes 50g/2oz butter 25g/1oz plain flour (or use wholemeal if you prefer) 284 ml/1/2 pint milk Salt and pepper 4 tablespoons wholemeal breadcrumbs Method: Whizz up the ingredients for the base in the processor and then press into a 28cm x 18cm/ 11x 7 in ovenproof dish. Bake in oven at 220C, 200C fan oven for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Slice leeks and chop tomatoes. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Saute leeks for 5 minutes, and then stir in flour. Add the milk, stirring constantly, then bring to the boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Add the remaining ingredients apart from the breadcrumbs and simmer for a few minutes to soften the tomatoes. Spoon the vegetable mixture over the base, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and cook at 180C, 160C fan for 20 minutes. Serve at once.

blackmorevale.net

New Blackmore Vale, October 1, 2021 55 Food & Drink Know your onions, don’t be a cabbage this autumn

Rebecca Vincent is a nutritionist working in Wincanton and Yeovil

With autumn truly on its way I’ve gone for a red theme this time, choosing anthocyanin-rich red cabbage and onions to be the stars of this sauerkraut recipe, bringing a little colour and beneficial bacteria to the new season. Red cabbage is a great source of vitamins C, B6, and K, biotin, folic acid, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and manganese. Onions also contain vitamins C, B6, and K, biotin, and folic acid, along with chromium, vitamin B1, and dietary fibre. Cutting onions releases the enzyme alliinase, which causes the conversion of trans-S-(1-propenyl) cysteine sulfoxide to propanethial Soxide which can make us cry. Onions also have good levels of the flavonoid quercetin which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Not only do fermented foods contain beneficial bacteria, but sauerkraut also contains fibre that help feed those good bacteria and keep them happy.

Red cabbage and onion sauerkraut

(serves … lots, fills a 500g jar) Ingredients ¼ medium red cabbage (core removed and finely sliced) 1 medium red onion (peeled, halved, and finely sliced) ½ heaped tbsp sea salt ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp chilli flakes 1 small garlic clove (finely grated) Optional flavourings: any seasoning of your choice

Method

Layer the cabbage and onion in a large bowl dividing the salt between the layers. Massage the mix and leave to sit for 1-2 hours covered on the side. This will soften the vegetables and they will release some liquid. Stir in the cumin, chilli, and garlic (or seasonings of your choice).

COMMUNITY APPLE JUICING

Using your own apples at Quiet Corner Farm, Henstridge BA8 0RA Mon-Fri from 10am Have a fun morning making your own delicious apple juice that will keep for up to two years. It’s quite heavy work so two people are better. Please phone to book yourself in on 01963 363045 – please leave a message Transfer the mixture into a clean 500ml jam jar with a tightfitting lid, Kilner jars are great for this. If there is not enough liquid to cover the vegetables press them down and top the mixture up with water so they remain n Rebecca Vincent BSc (Hons) BANT registered nutritionist 07515 019430 rebeccavincentnutrition. co.uk

submerged (you could place a clean weight on top to ensure they stay submerged if needed). Leave on the side, in the shade, for 5-10 days and release the gas daily. Taste regularly and when it’s nice and tangy, it’s ready! Store in the fridge and add to salads or sandwiches

Enford

Farm Shop

Durweston DT11 0QW Home reared and locally produced meats, game, deli, fruit, veg, free range eggs and lots more. Follow us on Facebook for all our latest meat pack deals and what’s in fresh that week. Fresh 昀sh van in the car park Wednesdays 9.30am-2pm Half a pig approx £100 Chicken feeds etc available Open Wednesdays to Saturday 8.30am-4pm. Outside shop with self service for essentials 8am-8pm open daily 01258 450050