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Guide to Iceland

Seljalandsfoss

Explore a trio of waterfalls on the south coast including this picture-perfect star page 6

City Escape

An island oasis of green with mountain and city views page 12

Driving in Iceland

When, why, and how page 14

Image Credits

Carrie Firman

Article Writer

Carrie Firman Designer

Carrie Firman

Welcome Letter and Page 5 Text

ChatGPT and Carrie Firman

Dear Travelers,

I am thrilled to welcome you to the inaugural issue of “Guide to Iceland,” a magazine dedicated to uncovering the beauty and cultural richness of Iceland. As the Editor-in-Chief, I am excited to embark on this journey with you, bringing you stories, insights, and breathtaking imagery that showcase the wonders of this unique Nordic island.

Iceland is a land of contrasts, where fire and ice coexist in harmony, creating landscapes that seem otherworldly. In the pages of “Guide to Iceland,” we aim to capture the essence of this extraordinary destination and guide you through its hidden gems, from the vibrant capital city of Reykjavík to the remote and awe-inspiring landscapes of the Icelandic countryside.

Our team of passionate writers, photographers, and explorers have scoured the island to bring you a diverse range of articles that delve into Iceland’s rich history, folklore, and modern culture. From the sagas that have shaped the nation’s identity to the contemporary art scene that is thriving in Reykjavík, we aim to provide you with a comprehensive understanding of this captivating country.

As we embark on this publishing journey, we invite you to share your own experiences and connect with us through our website and social media channels. Your feedback and stories will play a crucial role in shaping the future of “Guide to Iceland,” and we are excited to build a community that shares a love for exploration and discovery.

I extend my gratitude to our talented team for their dedication and hard work in bringing this magazine to life. I also want to thank you, our readers, for joining us on this adventure. Together, let’s explore the wonders of Iceland and celebrate the beauty of travel and discovery.

Welcome to “Guide to Iceland” – where every page is an invitation to experience the extraordinary.

Warm regards,

Valur Jónsson Editor-in-Chief, Guide to Iceland

Geolo-see

There’s a lot to see besides volcanoes and glaciers in Iceland. Take a peak at the south coast’s unique shapes.

page 4

Budget Tip

Explore the history, nature, and stunning views just a 5-minute ferry ride from Reykjavík.

page 12

Seljalandsfoss

Take a short, sometimes steep and slippery hike behind this incredible coastal waterfall to witness its power and beauty. We’ll give you all the info you need to prepare, schedule, and get to see this icon and its two neighbors.

page 6

Driving

When, why, and how you should go about renting a car and driving on your visit to Iceland.

page 14

Activity Guide: Picnics

Traveling safely and memorably (in a good way) in Iceland sometimes takes a bit of adaptation from the norm. Discover some tips to apply to having a picnic, the classic traveler’s meal.

page 17

The South Coast of Iceland is a living testament to the ongoing dance of geological forces.

Every lava field, glacier, and volcanic peak narrates a chapter in the Earth’s story, inviting us to witness the unfolding drama of our planet’s history. As you traverse the rugged terrain of the South Coast, remember that beneath your feet lies a geologic epic, a tale of creation and transformation that continues to captivate and inspire all who dare to explore this geological masterpiece.

Be sure to keep an eye out as you travel between the famous sites, however. The flat plain at the foot of the mountains used to be the sea bed, and is now a key agricultural zone. Dotted by areas that flood with glacial melt each summer, carving the earth, this area is also host to some unique and abrupt formations of rock, soil, and moss that have clung together.

Seljalandsfoss

Explore this natural wonder and its two waterfall neighbors with our guide

Skógafoss

Seljalandsfoss is one of those Instagramperfect shots you’ll often see used in marketing and influencer content about visiting Iceland–with good reason. As we are focused on giving you travel advice in context, we can’t discuss Seljalandsfoss without at least discussing its scenic neighbor a short drive to the east, Skógafoss (pictured above), and the almost-hidden Gljúfrabúi which shares a site with Seljalandsfoss. These three waterfalls are on the standard South Coast or Ring Road/Route 1 itinerary. If you take a

bus tour, you’ll be able to see them up close and damp/personal. But if you’re adventurous and have your own vehicle, plan to stay and really explore – and get soaked. For that reason, I recommend these falls be at the end of your day’s exploration, and in this order: Skógafoss first, and then Seljalandsfoss.

Located just about 25-30 minutes drive apart (assuming you don’t stop off to gaze at Eyjafjallajökull (volcano of 2010 fame) and the small but interesting exhibit about the eruption and the

recovery of the farm that sits at its base (Þorvaldseyri, worth a stop), Seljalandsfoss is the more western of the two, located near the turn to the south coast and the port that serves the ferry to the Westmann Islands (Vestmannaeyjar, go if at all possible, I promise to write about it!). This means that if you are coming down from Reykjavik, or have stopped for a day in Hvolsvöllur, you’ll come across this one first if you’re headed east. If at the end of the day you’re headed back toward the west/capital region, drive past Seljalandsfoss and do it as your last stop on the way back. If you’re returning to the west/ capital region, please heed my advice to make Seljalandsfoss your last stop if possible (or, have a plan).

Both falls have parking, though in peak season it could overflow. Self-pay stations are being added to help support the damage from tourism, and the police may ticket vehicles that park on the road, especially at Seljalandsfoss. Be a responsible tourist, and make the donation via parking fee that is well worth the visit to make sure others can enjoy these places in the future!

Skógafoss

Skógafoss is a beautiful place, rainbows abound on sunny days or when skies begin to clear quickly. I’ve been here a few times, and it’s amazing even on a rainy day. You’re already damp, so go as close as you dare to the bottom! Be sure to wear everything waterproof, and to leave cameras and sensitive gadgets in your car. Photography enthusiasts will want to use the waterproof housings, a worthwhile investment for a trip to Iceland. This 200-foot-tall, 50-plus-foot wide waterfall is where the Skógá River drops off the cliff edge and flows to the nearby ocean. This drop-off used to be the coastline, until geologic changes pushed it up. You can see this along much of the south coast, meaning the flat, low lands right by the water used to be the ocean floor!

For the moderately adventurous, exploring the base and catching rainbows makes for plenty of sublime fun. Birds swoop around the top and perch along the damp, rich green mosses fed by the spray from this powerful fall. Feeling a little more energetic? There are rough stairs on the right of the falls that will treat the climber to a good sweat and great views. Extremely keen? This trail connects to larger trail systems based slightly inland, and takes you to the Laugavegur

View from the heavy spray zone of Skógafoss

A magnificent site even on a cloudy day

Entrance to Gljúfrabúi

Looking up inside Gljúfrabúi

The wind influences Seljalandsfoss

The view from behind Seljalandsfoss

trail to Landmannalaugar–the key route for dedicated hikers to explore the Highlands. “Only” 527 steps to the top!

For the culturally/historically curious, less adventurous, or physically limited, hidden nearby to the right as you drive into the falls is the Skógar Museum. It’s located in a tiny hamlet by the same name, and has a collection of regional historical artifacts. Guides give great information to illuminate the collection’s description of life, and some preserved buildings remain behind the museum itself. There is also a “technical” (mechanical/engineering) museum building. The key room inside the main museum focuses around a preserved wooden fishing boat and other artifacts that describe its time as a fishing town, like many along the south coast. If you’re opting to spend not much time in the capital area, this is a great museum complex to visit as you’ll get many aspects in one admission.

Seljalandsfoss

I promise, this place actually exists! And I promise, you will get soaked. Dropping the same 200 feet as Skógafoss, there’s less water coming down, which lets the wind have a big effect on these falls. These falls are fairly easy to hike behind, but keep in mind it’s slippery, uneven, and includes a few types of steps (some of which are large). Kids, short folks, or those with slightly creaky joints will be ok with a strong hand on the biggest steps. As always, if it’s waterproof, WEAR IT! But also, getting soaked is part of the fun.

The soaking, and the fun, doesn’t end here. After being stunned by the hike behind the falls, don’t head back to the parking lot yet. Instead, head west (to the right, after going around the falls) and follow the gravel path. Soak in the silence and check out additional little falls along the cliff, listen to the babbling brook.

At the end of the path is a hidden gem, Gljúfrabúi (meaning cave dweller). I recommend going in small groups of 3-5 at the most. Make your way along the right hand wall, walking in the river. Keep an eye on your footing, even though everything is amazing! Once you’re in, there’s a shelf of rock you can sit or stand on, and stare up in awe at the canyon opening above you, water streaming in. By the end of this, you will be soaked, and maybe cold, but it’s SO worth it.

Now that you’re soaked and amazed…

Enjoy a slow, quiet walk back to the car. If you are continuing on to the Westmann Islands, there are good, warm bathrooms inside the ferry office where you can change into dry clothes. The bathrooms on site (at last visit, summer 2018) aren’t quite as suited. At minimum, bring some towels, plastic bags, and dry socks and shoes for after these visits. Final tip: when you’re back at your lodging, pull the insoles out of your shoes, loosen the laces, open them up as much possible, place them upside down on the radiator, and turn it up a few notches (crack a window) to dry out your boots. Hang those wet socks next to them!

Viðey

A scenic city escape

Love it as many do, Iceland is an expensive place. Along with advice such as avoiding the most costly day-to-day things (sit-down meals and alcohol at bars/restaurants) and only renting a car to maximally use it, there are still some places and activities that don’t break the bank. In this issue, we will discuss an affordable, flexible activity that can take up half or even a whole day that’s right in Reykjavík.

We always recommend looking into the cost of city cards wherever you visit. In some European cities, they are a steal if you are into museums and plan to use public transportation regularly. If you’re debating the Reykjvík City Card purchase but you are not into museums, but are into the pools and buses (if you are staying outside downtown to save money on your lodging, for example), another perk to use it for is the short ferry ride to and from Viðey Island.

Getting There

Viðey is a small island in the harbor north of Reykjavík. Most of the year, you can get there from the old harbor, behind HARPA, and the most active pier at Skarfabakki. The latter is accessible by bus line 14 (easy to catch from Hlemmur or the harbor side of downtown). It’s about an hour’s walk from downtown, well worth taking the bus unless you’re intentionally trying to get the miles in or go slow. Be sure

to check the schedule, because in the winter/off-season, the ferry, run by Elding, runs on a restricted schedule.

We recommend arriving at least 15 minutes (30 for groups 5+) before departure time, as you’ll need a few minutes to pay for your ticket or for them to enter your city card information to create a ticket. You can depart from one location and return to another, too. Also, grab a map in the ticket area, and use the bathroom!

From Skarfabakki, the small boat (with indoor and outdoor seating) makes the trip in about 5 minutes.

What to See and Do

The island itself is a fantastic retreat from the pavement, crowds, and bustle of the city. There are only a couple buildings on it, including one of the oldest houses in Reykjavík (which now houses a café/restaurant). The island was used as a monastery (1225 to 1539), and there used to be a small village there until the early 1940s. Since then, it has been the destination for two site-specific artworks. Richard Serra’s “Áfangar” (Milestones) consists of pairs of basalt columns around the island. Yoko Ono’s “Imagine Peace Tower” is a short walk from the pier (go up the steep hill and turn left, about 20 minutes walk and it will be on the left, overlooking the city skyline), is carved with the words for “imagine peace” in 24 languages. A strong beam of light comes out of the wishing well-like structure from October 9 to December 8 (John Lennon’s birthday to the date he was killed), and is visible from the mainland.

Viðey is covered with wonderful trails, and you can walk or bike. However, most are rough gravel or small walking tracks worn into the peat-like soil, so be prepared for a bumpy ride or to leave the bike to explore little paths. Use your map to navigate, but keep an eye on the time because the ferry doesn’t run any more frequently than hourly. Other than the chapel, house, and a couple other structures nearer the pier (for upkeep and school outings/groups), the island is

quiet and untouched. Roam, breathe, and soak it in. Many species of bird come to breed on the island, and there are several accessible beaches (of the pebble variety). From the small hills and the north/east sides of the island, you have a dramatic view of Esja, the ridge that watches over Reykjavík, reminding you that you’re on a geologically young and changing island.

Timing

If this is your scene, plan to be here for at least two hours. One hour only gives you enough time to get to the Imagine Peace Tower and stop to explore one other viewpoint along the way and then get back to the pier. If you’re making a whirlwind or stopover visit to Iceland and only visiting Reykjavík and the Golden Circle, but prefer the nature side of things, spend longer and take some snacks. It will take several hours to thoroughly cover the island, if that’s your goal.

Left: Viðey is a paradise for walkers, hikers, and picnickers. Make sure to leave only footprints.

Above: Spotted in late May, a nest of Eider duck eggs, lined with down. Never disturb a nest and be careful where you walk!

Driving in Iceland When, Why, and How

Renting a Car

We have personally rented from Hertz and Route1. We’ve been repeat business for Route1, because they’re a smaller, local company and we’ve always gotten a good deal there. When we rented from Hertz, we managed to find a coupon code we could use on the Iceland site, and we were able to pick up the car in Reykjavik and drop it off in Akureyri for a fairly reasonable fee. Other companies didn’t offer this (a limitation of Route1, being based south of the capital in Hafnarfjörður) or charged the equivalent of an entire extra day to drop it off in the north. There are many other companies operating in Iceland, of course.

Make sure you note the transmission type. Many of the cheapest cards to rent are manual transmission. If you, or your alternate driver, are not confident driving stick, pay extra for an automatic.

Both companies named above, and most of the rest, offer transportation for pick-up (possibly drop off, I just haven’t needed it). The actual process of reserving and renting is just like renting a car in the US, with a few small differences.

Only visiting the capital area? Do not rent a car unless you have a specific special need or money to burn on parking. There are coach trips from the international airport to downtown or hotels after every incoming flight. If you have a larger group, a private service will be more cost-efficient. Pick

up your car near Reykjavík if/when you plan to explore other areas. If you are on your own and on a short stay, consider day trips with coach companies to see the sights without the cost or stress of driving.

Planning to go into the highlands? Get 4WD/AWD. If you’re planning to drive into the highlands, you must have a vehicle that’s suited to F roads (SUVs with AWD or 4WD) that can deal with grades and unpaved roads. This is a law. If you explore thoroughly outside the F roads, you’ll still likely be driving on gravel, but much flatter terrain. That’s just one reason Google Maps driving times are often VERY optimistic in Iceland.

Insurance options and add-ons are the only other difference to a typical US rental. Even if you aren’t heading to the highlands, unless you are only driving around the capital area (in which case, use the Stræto buses instead and save a ton of money) and maybe just to Selfoss, get the gravel insurance. Theft protection? Not worth it in a place with such low crime, but always put bags and valuables away and lock doors. If you’re planning to take the vehicle camping on the beach, sand is probably a good insurance add-on. If there are serious volcano warnings happening, ash damage insurance wouldn’t be unwise. Otherwise, you pick your level of coverage, and often pay a little for an extra driver. When you pick up the car, all drivers must show ID in person, usually driver’s license and passport.

Speed cameras

While you won’t see police waiting to trap speeders as they do in the US, there are speed cameras up and functioning. Most are on Route 1 (the ring road), and there are PLENTY on the stretch between Reykjavík and Akureyri. Every camera is marked with a sign with a strangely old-fashioned camera icon.

On most of Route 1, when paved, the speed limit is 90 kmph. Gravel? 80 kmph, but sometimes that’s not reasonable depending on the

condition of the gravel road. Tunnels are limited to 70 kmph. Even as a car renter, the plates will be snapped and the ticket sent to the rental agency, and processing can take longer than you have the car. You’ll still be sent the ticket, as the rental agency has your information. Just follow the speed limits, and you don’t have to worry about it. It’s for your safety. You’ll also get information about these things when you get your rental car.

Icelandic driving etiquette

Generally, defensive driving will be just fine. When you get into remote areas, locals who know all the cameras and are used to the scenery may be speeding along and pass you. Don’t let it make you feel like you aren’t keeping up or doing your duty to stay under the speed limit. If there’s a lot of traffic, or you see a few people behind you waiting to pass, put your right blinker/ signal light on and slow down. If it’s safe and there is a paved or maintained gravel spot for it, you can partially pull off the road to allow safer passing. A lot of Route 1 is just two lanes with a dotted line, passing is common but DO NOT do it without a clear view of oncoming traffic (which may include wandering sheep).

Wear your seatbelt and make sure there are daytime running lights/headlights on at all times.

There are several one lane bridges in Iceland, even on Route 1. Treat it like a stop sign, first come, first across, take turns. In the north, tunnels that are one lane with pull-offs for passing work similarly, but the person on the side with the pull-off has the responsibility of doing so if there is oncoming traffic, no matter the type of vehicle.

Never put your car on any surface that is not paved or maintained gravel for vehicles. The ground is unpredictable in this volcanic land, what may look like solid rock may crack easily or shift. That moss may seem abundant but takes thousands of years to establish itself.

Never stop or slow down to look or take a photo if there are others on the road or if visibility is poor. The same goes for if you’re in awe of scenery or the Northern Lights. Your first priority is safety–of you, your passengers, your fellow motorists, your vehicle, and the environment. It won’t be long until there’s a driveway or pull-off that you can use to stare or get your camera. Use them!

Keep track of weather conditions, the best source being the Icelandic Met Office’s Veður app/website.

Filling up your tank in Iceland

If you don’t need that more capable vehicle for F roads, don’t get it. Gas is expensive in Iceland, typically ranging between $7-9/gallon. You’ll probably be given a little round token with the logo of one of the gas station chains when you’re given your keys. Holding it to the pump before you fill up will save you a few kroner per liter. It’s worth using, but if you’re running low in a remote area, just fill up at the next station of any type! Gas stations often only take cards with PIN numbers. For us behind-the-times Americans, that means you need to use a debit card (Visa or Mastercard, usually) or buy preloaded gas cards inside the station. The limitation of those preloaded cards are that they’re only good at that brand of gas station (not a good bet if you’ll be in remote areas) and twice we’ve used roadside drive-up pumps with no station to buy those cards in.

Summing Up

Driving in Iceland, in good weather, is easy and safe. Please, please use common sense. Weekends in summer are VERY busy, especially in July and August, as Icelanders themselves are on the move to camp and visit summer cottages.

Use common sense. Make sure you know the rules on speed limits (and roundabouts). Don’t go on F roads without 4WD/AWD. Slow down on gravel roads. Always assume your Google Maps/navigation directions are being very optimistic on time estimates. If you have cellular data service, Google Maps does a decent job of navigating. However, it might not try to pronounce names, just giving you a “boop!” when

there is a turn coming up. You can opt to rent a GPS device with your car, but cellular coverage in populated Iceland (the edges) is good. Pay for parking wherever it is required, whether that’s in the city or at one of many natural attractions, where that money supports the facilities for the overwhelming numbers of tourists like you.

Safety first. Keep your eyes and attention on the road. Don’t pull off unless it’s clearly a pull-off, parking lot, or empty driveway. If it’s very windy–a likely situation in Icleand–hold onto your door as you open it, to avoid it being damaged.

If you can afford it, and the conditions are good, renting a car in Iceland is a fantastic way to get to out-of-the way gems and to travel in a more flexible way. If you aren’t a confident driver, however, don’t worry–there are many bus services that offer day trips and regular longer distance routes so that you can see major attractions and get outside the main populated areas! Stræto Grayline, Rekjavik Excursions, and Sterna are a few of those providers. However, if you are in a group, buying tickets for everyone will likely end up more expensive than driving, if your group is up for it.

Here are two of our staff’s favorite signs in Iceland

Toilet! (not always free) Pool/Hot Pots!

Picnic Procedure

Álftanes

Picnics are a great way to save money and time as you travel in Iceland, whether you are seeking out beautiful spots to do so, or just fueling yourself up en route.

» Swing by the nearest grocery store (Bónus, Kronur, or Nettó, probably) to buy your supplies. Convenience stores have consistently higher prices except on specials.

» If you choose to consume alcohol responsibly, buy only from the state liquor store, Vínbúðin. Beer sold in grocery stores is barely alcohol.

» Don’t grab anything that will require being heated, trimmed with a sharp knife, or opened with scissors!

» If you’re in a city/town, grabbing a premade sandwich or salad is often a quick, cheap lunch. However, these get quite picked over as midday comes and goes, but may be a good fit in a hurry and before the rush.

» For better quality and value, share some bread (half loaves often available), cheese, fruit, nuts, condiments, snacks, etc. between your group or even yourself over multiple days.

» We recommend to any traveler who plans on picnicking, or even taking all-day trips by bus or car, that they bring from home a set of durable resuable cutlery and a handful of resealable plastic bags in different sizes. Bring a few of plastic shopping bags for temporary carrying, secure wrapping in transit, and trash collection (also great for wet clothes and shoes). A stash of napkins or paper towels will also be appreciated!

» If your chosen spot is outdoors, do not sit on moss or plants. Use picnic tables or rocks, and sit on a jacket or a plastic shopping bag, if they are damp (a fair chance).

» Appreciate your surroundings, take your waste to the right place, and enjoy your journey!