University of Brighton —
Fashion + Textile Design — 2013
p. 02
FASHION — p. 34
KNIT — p. 54
PRINT — p. 82
WEAVE
This 2013 catalogue brings together the talents of more than fifty fashion and textiles students from the Faculty of Arts. The exhibition and fashion show together mark the conclusion of four years of study for both our BA and MDes students. Our graduates have matured to become professional designers, equipped with the appropriate skills to succeed in their chosen disciplines. They will become key contributors to the design sector, within industry and academia. I am sure you will join the staff team and me in wishing all of our final-year students the best of luck as they move on to build meaningful design careers as distinguished University of Brighton graduates. Jake Leith Academic Programme Leader
— Fashion
— Knit
— Weave
04 Faye Baldwin
36 Lily Eden
56 Rob Atkins
84 Jessica Abbey
06 Harriet Brooks
38 Sophie-Aimée Jensen
58 Alexandra Connor
86 Jessica Avietti
08 Emma Burniston
40 Kate Jopling
60 Isabel Rose Crossman
88 Sarah Jane Davies
10 Reagan Clare
42 Alice Liptrot
62 Amelia Elstow
90 Elle Elizabeth Edwards
12 Nassera Dahmani
44 Jasmine M Nicholls
64 Beki Gowing
92 Penny Gray
14 Peter Graham
46 Elinor Pierce
66 Jade Hopper
94 Juliet Rose Graziano
16 Merje Laiapea
48 Heather Ridley-Moran
68 Anna Jayne
96 Holly Howe
18 Lucy Lee
50 Ellinor Siljeström
70 Lauren Morgan
98 Claire Ithurralde
20 Jessica Linton
52 Lucy Willoughby
72 Kavita Ravaliya
100 Laura King
22 Polly Mann
74 Emily Katherine Reader
102 Mylinh Nguyen
24 Ben Rice
76 Phoebe Simpson
104 Georgina Sury
26 Katie Ring
78 Katey Jane Smith
106 Sarah Rosa Wilson
28 Max Robinson
80 Holly Watts
30 Camilla Stolerman 32 Nneka Uzoigwe
04 Faye Baldwin www.fayebaldwin.com fayeannebaldwin@gmail.com
FASHION
18 Lucy Lee lucyleedesign@gmail.comÂ
06 Harriet Brooks harriet_brooks74@hotmail.co.uk
20 Jessica Linton www.jessylinton.co.uk jessylinton@gmail.com
08 Emma Burniston emaanne@hotmail.com
22 Polly Mann pollymann@live.com
10 Reagan Clare www.reaganclare.tumblr.com www.reaganclare@hotmail.com
24 Ben Rice www.ben--rice.com ben_rice@me.com
12 Nassera Dahmani nas.dahmani@gmail.com
26 Katie Ring katiering2007@yahoo.co.uk
14 Peter Graham www.peter-graham.co.uk petercolingraham@gmail.com
28 Max Robinson maxwhrobinson@hotmail.co.ukÂ
16 Merje Laiapea www.merje-l.tumblr.com merje.laiapea@gmail.com
30 Camilla Stolerman camilla@stolerman.com 32 Nneka Uzoigwe nneka_uzoigwe@hotmail.co.uk
Faye Baldwin
www.fayebaldwin.com fayeannebaldwin@gmail.com
New Pilgrim — Man on the move and in search for himself in the great outdoors, a response to the need of spirituality, a soul engaged in a perpetual voyage. ‘New Pilgrim’ isn’t creating new, revolutionary design for menswear but about developing and modernising classic styles. The tailored utilitarian range focuses on the concept of ‘lux-loggers’, with influences of American work wear and bygone era Lumberjacks.
Experience — Aitor Throup, London Khmer Silk Villages, Cambodia
FASHION BA HONS
04
Harriet Brooks
Experience — Matthew Williamson, London
The Anatomy of Beauty — Inspired by a curiosity towards the perception of what can be viewed as ugly or unattractive, viewing the irregular flaws and imperfections each human possesses and cannot control as a distinctive error representing our uniqueness and individuality. Through fabric manipulation techniques in which the final outcome is beyond your control revises a new adaptation of classic beauty. Considering the notion that not everything is perfect, that the irregular itself is not necessarily a negative, that is can also be viewed as beautiful.
harriet_brooks74@hotmail.co.uk
FASHION MDES
06
Emma Burniston emaanne@hotmail.com
Experience — Peter Pilotto, London Kim Howells (Styling for LFW with Fred Butler, David Koma, Piers Atkinson and James Long)
Smart Folk — Research into the British woolen industry for my dissertation has given me an enthusiasm to use what is available locally and ties in with the utilitarian conventions of folk art. Surreal aspects of the silhouette and my approach to layering will be highlighted through the use of check whilst contrasting patterns of similar colouring aims to confuse the eye and distort the shape. The collection will contain a combination of suits, creating a smart but romanticised and fun style.
FASHION BA HONS
08
Melancholy Theatre
Reagan Clare
— ‘Melancholy Theatre’ is a womenswear collection offering subtle eccentricity that is fun and comfortable to wear. Playful styling gives flamboyancy to the clothes allowing the wearer to adopt a childlike mentality that is both sombre and amusing; an attitude of ‘melancholy theatre’.
www.reaganclare.tumblr.com www.reaganclare@hotmail.com
Work experience — Vivienne Westwood, London Antipodium, London (Assistant to) stylist Gary Armstrong (Assistant to) patchwork artist Ian Hundley
FASHION BA HONS
10
UNCHAINED
Nassera Dahmani
nas.dahmani@gmail.com
— The ‘U N C H A I N E D’ collection explores form, drape and celebrates North African traditional artisanal skills. The focus around a process of geometric pattern cutting has steamed from the observation of ancient costume. Contemporary design combined with delicate jewelled fastenings is for improving the uniqueness and style of the dress, yet making it more eye-catching.
Experience — Giles Deacon, London
FASHION MDES
12
SKEAGH
Peter Graham
— This womenswear collection tells the story of a new puritan, an urban girl fleeing from city complexities for the simple life on a rural hill farm. She becomes a graphic part of her surroundings, creating an effortless rustic minimalism. She forms her own approach to dress through layers of various lengths, fitted and unfitted, tucked and untucked, creating a range of odd proportions establishing the basis of her approach to dress philosophy.
Experience — GILES, London
www.peter-graham.co.uk petercolingraham@gmail.com
FASHION BA HONS
14
654321 COLLECTION
Merje Laiapea
— Experience — Margaret Howell, London
www.merje-l.tumblr.com merje.laiapea@gmail.com
The collection captures the timeless and classic spirit of documentary and artistic photography of the European interwar period. Within a convertible wardrobe the attention is on the fit and proportion of tailored garments. The clothes achieve a relaxed dynamic and effectively communicate a freshness and purity to styling and fashion design.
FASHION BA HONS
16
LUCY LEE
Experience — Giles, London Hermione de Paula, London
RED — The initial inspiration for this collection stems from the construction and interior of gothic architecture. An idea of repetition is explored through fabric manipulation techniques such as tucking and pleating. The colour red has been chosen from its use in church front doors to symbolise the blood of Christ and entry to salvation.
lucyleedesign@gmail.com
FASHION BA HONS
18
Jessica Linton jessylinton.co.uk jessylinton@gmail.com
Experience — Vivienne Westwood, London Louise Gray, London Fashion East, London
GIRL GOT BIG LEGGY — The six-look womenswear collection re-invents conventional denim workwear shapes through playfulness with proportion and a humorous style identity. A DIY aesthetic is a key visual element within the collection, representing the resourceful and adventurous nature of the wearer. It’s about living above your means. The collection draws on an eclectic mix of 1980’s music, fashion and street-culture references that combine to create a bold, playful and androgynous silhouette.
FASHION BA HONS
20
Polly Mann
pollymann@live.com
BEAUTIFUL AS A BIRD — A consideration of the female as an object of beauty and its relation to a bird. These femmes fatale, like birds, lure you in with their colour, mysterious appearance and enchanting movements. They are a combination of kinetic sculptured forms embodying their female sexuality - a representation of strength - with floating, free fabrics displaying playfulness and freedom.
Experience — Design: Draw In Light & Fred Butler Stylist Assistant: Kim Howells, David Hawkins, Aradia Crockett, Ellie Lines, Keighley Forge, Elaine McIntyre
FASHION MDES
22
MASSIVE
Ben Rice
— The menswear collection captures the sinister mood and dark atmosphere present in the music, videos and album artwork of Massive Attack. Opposing and conflicting garments, silhouettes, detailing and fabrics are used to create clothing that is new and challenges existing ideas, yet is familiar and faithfully reflects the research.
Experience — COS, London
www.ben--rice.com ben_rice@me.com
FASHION BA HONS
24
Katie Ring
katiering2007@yahoo.co.uk
Illusions of Movement — Exploring the relationship between motion and stillness, ‘Illusions of Movement’ uses woven patterns and textures to explore optical effects to focus on capturing the qualities of movement within a triptych of static dresses. A combination of sheen and matte, reflective and tactile, the fabrics aim to entice the audience, and asks them to question what they are seeing.
Experience — Peter Jensen, London
FASHION MDES
26
Max Robinson maxwhrobinson@hotmail.co.uk
Experience — Bernhard Willhelm, Paris Henrik Vibskov, Copenhagen
Looks Dangerous… You Go First! — Humorous, animated and theatrical. The menswear collection is escapism from everyday life and will transport the wearer into my world, a bonkers world, fashioning radical characters that reflect my imagination. ‘Looks dangerous… You Go First’ explores the fusion of costume with the discipline of fashion design being the primary grounding to my work. Print and embroidery designs by Textile student Amelia Elstow from the collection ‘Neo Daddy’
FASHION BA HONS
28
Camilla Stolerman camilla@stolerman.com
Experience — Alexander Wang, New York Gareth Pugh, London Fashion East, London Giles Deacon, London
CON.SCRIPT — ‘CON.SCRIPT’ is a womenswear collection that explores the contrast of both the opulent and the utilitarian within Russian history. The influence of Eastern European and German artists can be seen in the cold, muted colour palette. The collection conveys a strong sense of mood, intrigue and detachment a kind of unapproachable beauty.
FASHION BA HONS
30
FLIGHT OF FANCY
Nneka Uzoigwe
— ‘Flight of Fancy’ delves into a dark tropical world exploring birds of paradise and geometric patterns from the mosaic pools in Morocco, to the Moorish courtyards in Cordoba. Combined, they create an array of decorative laser cut patterns. Luxurious airy fabrics contrast with sharp laser cut edges to create elongated diaphanous gowns.
Experience — Marchesa, New York Gareth Pugh, London
nneka_uzoigwe@hotmail.co.uk
FASHION BA HONS
32
KNIT
36 Lily Eden lilyeden@hotmail.co.uk
46 Elinor Pierce pierce.elinor@googlemail.com
38 Sophie-AimĂŠe Jensen sophiejensen@hotmail.co.uk
48 Heather Ridley-Moran hridleymorandesign@gmail.com
40 Kate Jopling kate_jopling@hotmail.com
50 Ellinor SiljestrĂśm www.be.net/missiljestrom sellinor@gmail.com
42 Alice Liptrot alice.c.liptrot@gmail.com 44 Jasmine M Nicholls www.jasminemnicholls.co.uk jasminemnicholls@aol.com
52 Lucy Willoughby lucyw2175@hotmail.com
Lily Eden
Amazing Animal Skins . . . — An exploration into animal skins and furs has led to a collection of tactile samples and unique pieces, emulating a range of various surface qualities. The knitwear created becomes like a second skin shedding from the body as a snake would shed its skin.
lilyeden@hotmail.co.uk
Experience — Bless, Paris Zinc Limited, London
KNIT BA HONS
36
Sophie-AimEe Jensen
sophiejensen@hotmail.co.uk
Traces — ‘Traces’ is an in-depth exploration and technological enquiry into transparency within knit design, using the crossover of knit and devoré processes to create the effect of layered densities. Inspired by cracked and peeling paint the knit evokes a sense of deconstruction, yet delicacy, that could not be created through knit techniques alone.
Experience — Donna Karan, New York WGSN, London
KNIT Mdes
38
kate_jopling@hotmail.com
Kate Jopling Experience — DKNY, New York Pearl Knit, London
Pronounced Pleats: A Transition From Firmness to Fluidity — This unconventional knitwear collection explores the potential of knit and its relation to the female form. The collection is comprised of complex knitted structures of engineered pleats and ribs which are integral to the form and structure of the garment. ‘Tatting’ is incorporated into the designs as a decorative feature.
KNIT BA HONS
40
Alice Liptrot
alice.c.liptrot@gmail.com
Experience — John Rocha, Dublin Donna Karan, New York Cardigan, Brighton
Storytelling Sweaters: Intertwining Fragile Songs and Overgrown Fisherman Knitting — Time-honoured fisherman’s knitwear with combinations of knots and cables recalling defining and distinctive stories. Melancholic musical strains are legible within the knitted designs from British Sea Powers’ moving instrumental accompaniment to the documentary Man of Aran (1934). The collection uses natural Shetland wool to enhance the traditional, social and ethical nature of the project.
KNIT BA HONS
42
Rudimentary — Through the use of organic materials and multi-media, ‘Rudimentary’ employs a responsible design ethic whilst exploring the ideals of utility and simplicity in fabricating desirable yet durable products. Distinct uses of waste materials have been manipulated and constructed to convey a sophisticated approach to recycling textiles, and new fibres such as milk protein have been incorporated to suggest an alternative for British produce.
KNIT BA HONS
44
www.cargocollective.com/JasmineMNicholls
www.jasminemnicholls.co.uk
Experience — Izzy Lane, Yorkshire McQ, London
jasminemnicholls@aol.com
Jasmine M Nicholls
Elinor Pierce
Experience — Zinc Limited, London Nicole Farhi, London Mulberry, London
CORE STRUCTURES —
pierce.elinor@googlemail.com
‘CORE STRUCTURES’ is an explorative investigation into the construction of knitted samples with opposing surface qualities using interlocking technology, to produce multifunctional hybrid textiles with a layered aesthetic. The composition and materials used aim to challenge the previous double-bed limitations of machine knitting, whilst utilising evolving technology and resources within the creative discipline and industry.
KNIT Mdes
46
Heather Ridley-Moran
hridleymorandesign@gmail.com
Experience — Bless, Paris, Berlin YMBBT, London Prop Studios, Hassocks Carnival Chaos, Edinburgh
A Multitude of Memories — This collection is characterised by aesthetic and tactile qualities derived from a variety of personal stories told about meaningful items of clothing. Mementos of emotional states are used as reference points in the creation of one-off special pieces designed for performance. Heavily embellished fabrics, suggestive of haute couture decorative techniques create textiles resembling dream-like states and celebrate remembered times.
KNIT BA HONS
48
www.be.net/missiljestrom
Ellinor Siljestrom
sellinor@gmail.com
An Exploration of Knitwear and Data — Touched is a data visualisation project gone rogue. Dealing with the haptic data of emotional responses to music, this project attempts to translate the experienced abstract qualities of music into its physical equivalent. Graphs become foundations for design, numbers become patterns and survey responses become colour palettes.
Experience — Minimarket, Stockholm
KNIT Mdes
50
Lucy Willoughby lucyw2175@hotmail.com
Experience — DKNY, New York John Rocha, Dublin Zinc Limited, London
Tooth and Bone — The inspiration for this study is a sparse desert scattered with bull skulls, cacti and wildflowers evoking a mood of freedom and the unknown, which will be combined with the constrictions of a skeletal structure. I am interested in technique and unpredictability in knit, experimenting to achieve unexpected outcomes.
KNIT BA HONS
52
56 Rob Atkins atkinsr@hotmail.co.uk 58 Alexandra Connor alex.connor@live.com
60 Isabel Rose Crossman www.isabelrose.co.uk isabelrosecrossman@outlook.com 62 Amelia Elstow www.ameliaelstow.com ameliagelstow@live.com 64 Beki Gowing www.bekigowing.com beki@bekigowing.com 66 Jade Hopper jadehopper@yahoo.com 68 Anna Jayne contact@annajaynedesigns.com
70 Lauren Morgan lauren-morgan.tumblr.com laurenmorgandesign@hotmail.com 72 Kavita Ravaliya kavitaravaliya-81.tumblr.com kavitaravaliya@live.com 74 Emily Katherine Reader rosepetaldeer.blogspot.com em.kr@hotmail.com 76 Phoebe Simpson www.phoebesimpson.com simpson.phoebe@hotmail.com 78 Katey Jane Smith www.kateyjanesmith.com kateyjanesmith@hotmail.co.uk 80 Holly Watts hollywattsart.tumblr.com hollyewatts@hotmail.co.uk
Rob Atkins
atkinsr@hotmail.co.uk
Experience — Zandra Rhodes, London Alexander McQueen, London
Rustic Revolt — ‘Rustic Revolt’ was inspired by the Steam Punk sub culture, which has recently gained a new-found recognition in the fashion industry. The prints were designed by developing the tessellation found in mechanical forms. The colour palette is also derived from similar sources such as rusting engines, clockworks and gears. These abstract circular shapes combined with the naturally occurring repetition found in design such as Victoriana and Paisley, compliment the colour yielding an aged and classic look, with a more contemporary edge.
PRINT BA HONS
56
Alexandra Connor alex.connor@live.com
Experience — All Saints, London Hannah Coffin Ltd., London
The Alps — This project investigates the use of freestyle skiing imagery for printed textiles, studying the skiers as the subject of each piece. Alongside this, is a study of the textures and outlines made in the snow by skiers and also the natural forms the snow creates in desolate areas in the mountains. With thanks to Sean Griffin at I-sub Limited.
PRINT BA HONS
58
ISABEL ROSE CROSSMAN
www.isabelrose.co.uk isabelrosecrossman@outlook.com
Fool’s Paradise — The initial inspiration for this collection was taken from the photographer Slim Aarons and his idealistic images of socialites and the jet-setting elite on holiday in the 1950’s and 60’s. Investigating the romantic notions of travel, themes of summer holidays and escapism are all explored. Patterns are created from the tropical deco detailing of old beachfront hotels and exotic plant life in a colour palette reminiscent of the hazy summer atmosphere portrayed within these vintage holiday pictures.
Experience — Draw In Light, London Diane Von Furstenberg, New York
PRINT BA HONS
60
Amelia Elstow www.ameliaelstow.com gelstow.tumblr.com ameliagelstow@live.com
Neo Daddy — Sophisticated glam is the aesthetic of this collection, created for all the Neo-Daddies out there! Bold graphic shapes and statement colourways are used to identify its eccentric wearer and their style ambitions. Embroidery is a fundamental part in encapsulating luxury and longevity in design, creating unique pieces to be treasured and enjoyed. Designs used in collaboration with fashion student Max Robinson in the collection, ‘Looks Dangerous …you go first!’
Experience — Maison Lesage, Paris Mary katranzou, London
PRINT BA HONS
62
BEKI GOWING www.bekigowing.com beki@bekigowing.com
Experience — Larch Rose, Brighton WGSN, London Diane Von Furstenberg, New York Forpeople, London
Geometry in Nature — ‘Geometry in Nature’ explores the patterns and shapes found in natural forms, focusing on movement and fragmented tessellations. Contrast is emphasized, and imagery, fabrics and differing surface treatments are juxtaposed to create tactile fabrics that move and fold in certain ways, mimicking fluid natural patterns.
PRINT BA HONS
64
JADE HOPPER
Experience — All Saints, London Erdem, London Accessorize, London Jenny King Embroidery, Brighton
Memento Mori — Vintage aesthetics, a cacophony of dusky undertones and gentle light reflect the intrinsic symbolism of this collection. The juxtaposition personalizes a transience of life and death that we sustain. Through sensitive illustrative style and drawing imagery from taxidermy, anatomy and nature, the idea of preservation and passing time is spoken.
jadehopper@yahoo.com
PRINT BA HONS
66
contact@annajaynedesigns.com
Anna Jayne
Pushing Out To Sea — ‘Pushing Out To Sea’ is a visually driven commercial print collection, inspired by nostalgic coastal imagery and the working conditions of the fishing trade. Thorough use of extensive dying and sampling techniques has led to a cohesive range of accessories intended for the luxury retail market.
Experience — WGSN, London Tom Cody, New York + London
PRINT BA HONS
68
LAUREN MORGAN
Experience — Hatley Print, London Westcott Design, London ForPeople, London
Integrated Elements — The collection draws inspiration from the natural elements; fire, earth, air and water, to help convey a sense of atmosphere, texture and luminosity. Air and water are combined to explore mist, clouds and landscapes. Fire and earth are connected and explore rust, rock and corrosion.
lauren-morgan.tumblr.com laurenmorgandesign@hotmail.com
PRINT BA HONS
70
KAVITA RAVALIYA kavitaravaliya-81.tumblr.com kavitaravaliya@live.com
Experience — McQ - Alexander McQueen, London Rosita Bonita, London Jenny King Embroidery, Brighton DKNY, New York
A Turning Point — A bespoke autumn-winter outerwear collection celebrating eccentricity and originality through defined mark making juxtaposed to fine line illustrative drawings. Screen printed designs are transposed onto a multitude of outerwear fabrics such as heavy and textured wools, some manipulated using Irish embroidery to add unique qualities to each piece. Visual research is driven from symbolic imagery such as sculptures, florals and animals to create a personal narrative and highly creative collection.
PRINT BA HONS
72
Emily Katherine Reader
rosepetaldeer.blogspot.com twitter.com/rosepetaldeer em.kr@hotmail.com
Fairytale Fauna — ‘Fairytale Fauna’ is a design concept influenced by elements of Japanese culture. It explores the softness of silk, the carefully formulated spacing and scale of designs and the delicacy of pastel colours. A combination of intricate drawing, printing and elaborate embellishment, it mixes aesthetic candy cuteness with the beauty of eerie and otherworldly elements.
Experience — Tatty Devine, London Jenny King Embroidery, Brighton Fred Butler, London
PRINT BA HONS
74
www.phoebesimpson.com
Phoebe Simpson
simpson.phoebe@hotmail.com
Experience — H&M, Sweden Fred Butler, London Westcott Design, London
Nuit — ‘Nuit’ is a collection of hand printed and embellished fabrics, combining soft feminine colours, beading, embroidery and fabric manipulation. This body of work is largely shaped by expressive mark making and texture, inspired by a recent trip to Tae O, a small fishing village in Hong Kong.
PRINT BA HONS
76
Katey Jane Smith
www.kateyjanesmith.com kateyjanesmith@hotmail.co.uk
Experience — Westcott Design Ltd, London Mehera Shaw, India Ock Pop Tok, Laos Passa Paa, Laos WGSN, London
After the Rain: A Journey through Laos — This process based explorative project has been created in response to a recent work placement in Laos. A reflection on the landscape, the people, the stories told, the past and the future. Using skills learnt during this trip such as natural indigo dying, this womenswear collection tells a story of tradition and modernity, low tech and hi tech, juxtaposition, and cross cultural hybridisation.
PRINT BA HONS
78
Holly Watts Wunderkammer
hollywattsart.tumblr.com
—
hollyewatts@hotmail.co.uk
‘Wunderkammer’ is a term used to describe a cabinet of curiosity. This project has been inspired by the specimens and oddities found in 19th century curiosity cabinets, as well as Victorian botanical and scientific illustrations. The focus of placement prints and scenic imagery is explored with the use of silk fabrics and ornate hues.
Experience — Alexander McQueen, London John Galliano, Paris Bernhard Willhelm, Paris
PRINT BA HONS
80
WEAVE
84 Jessica Abbey jess.abbey@btinternet.com
96 Holly Howe holly_649@yahoo.co.uk
86 Jessica Avietti j.d.avietti@googlemail.com
98 Claire Ithurralde c-ithurralde@hotmail.co.uk
88 Sarah Jane Davies www.sarahjaneintern.tumblr.com sjdavies@gmail.com
100 Laura King laurajking90@yahoo.co.uk
90 Elle Elizabeth Edwards elle-elizabeth@hotmail.co.ukÂ
102 Mylinh Nguyen www.mylinh-nguyen.com info@mylinh-nguyen.com
92 Penny Gray penny.gray.uk@gmail.com
104 Georgina Sury georginasury@hotmail.com
94 Juliet Rose Graziano www.julietgraziano.com juliet.rose.graziano@gmail.com
106 Sarah Rosa Wilson www.sarahrosawoven.com sarahrosa.woven@gmail.com
Jessica Abbey
jess.abbey@btinternet.com
Experience — Textil Dobert, Barcelona Woven Studio, London Vanners Silk Mill, Sudbury
Acidic Astronomy — Drawing on initial inspiration from rocks, minerals and outer space this collection has evolved to incorporate heavy influence from arcade games. Blocks form the basis of construction, using extra weft patterning unusual colour ways are used in these geometric shapes. Co-ordinating neutral samples help support this menswear collection.
WEAVE BA HONS
84
Jessica Avietti Exposure
j.d.avietti@googlemail.com
— Exposure will investigate yarn capabilities and combinations within woven textiles. Studying a variety of yarns and the different tints of colour they adopt when dyed using direct, disperse, acid, illuminating and discharge dyes. When the yarns are united within one woven piece, the concealed pattern will be revealed through this process and adapted towards a fashion fabric outcome.
Experience — Larch Rose, Brighton Together Ltd, London International Clothing Design, London
WEAVE MDES
86
sarahjaneintern.tumblr.com
Sarah Jane Davies
sjdavies@gmail.com
Experience — Donna Karan, New York Textil Dobert, Barcelona Giorgio Armani Press Office, London
Distorted Disorder — This AW 2013 fabric collection is inspired by distortion and the combination of juxtaposed textures and colours. Inspired by the painted photographs of Gerhard Richter, the designer has distorted and painted her own photographs to create interesting images involving clashing brights next to duller greys and blacks to inform a collection that pushes the boundaries of fashion fabrics.
WEAVE BA HONS
88
Elle Elizabeth Edwards Delicate Destruction
elle-elizabeth@hotmail.co.uk
— ‘Delicate Destruction’ explores the juxtaposition of surfaces, layers and textures found within natural and man-made decay, destruction and weathering. Drawing inspiration from experimentation with ink and ice melting and cracking as well as images of ice caps and glaciers in National Geographic.
Experience — Malhia Kent, Paris Diane Von Furstenberg, New York
WEAVE BA HONS
90
Penny Gray UTILITARIAN
penny.gray.uk@gmail.com
— This project deals with the idea of a cultural uniform, stemming from research into military clothing and innovative clothing created for performance. It explores the juxtaposition of traditional fabrics and technical finishes. With a strong focus on finishings, this collection is inspired by bleak industrial imagery and the conflict between the natural and the man made.
Experience — WGSN, London Duchamp, London Selvedge, London Laura Miles, Woven Studio, London
WEAVE BA HONS
92
Experience — Celine, London Sylvie Boyer Weaving, France
Natural Processes — Transitions of water and energy inform the project, employing the conceptual ideas associated with these natural processes whilst using inspiration from the formations and patterns embodied within them. Designed to enrich and compliment the surroundings of the wearer, Juliet experiments with the juxtaposition of thick lambs wool and superfine lustrous polyester to create a refined, rustic collection, rich with colour.
WEAVE BA HONS
94
www.julietgraziano.com
juliet.rose.graziano@gmail.com
Juliet Rose Graziano
Holly Howe holly_649@yahoo.co.uk
Experience — Textil Dobert, Barcelona Malhia Kent, Paris
Decorative Surfaces — The use of rich, natural materials such as marble and wood contrasted with geometric, graphic patterns in Art Deco Interiors provides the inspiration for this collection. A combination of natural and synthetic fibres reflects these smooth, shiny surfaces, creating a range of elegant and luxurious womenswear fabrics.
WEAVE BA HONS
96
c-ithurralde@hotmail.co.uk
Claire Ithurralde
Experience — Nicole Farhi, London ForPeople, London
Blissful Ignorance — A bespoke womenswear collection inspired by the visual example of destruction from production represented in the Gulf of Mexico oil spill. Creating a collection as environmentally, ethically and economically sustainable as possible. A line that is truthful and transparent about the limitations as well as advantages.
WEAVE BA HONS
98
Laura King
laurajking90@yahoo.co.uk
Skins and Scales — The collection explores natural patterning found in nature focusing on animal skins and scales. Photography collated from aquariums is used to incorporate vivid colour and texture to produce an eclectic range of fabric. Translucency in fish scales has been explored through shimmering, iridescent qualities and the play of light and shadow, whilst textural, sculptural fabrics have been informed by anemones. The collection aims to create a diverse, bright range of fabrics to be used across fashion and interiors.
Experience — Donna Karan, New York Reiss, London
WEAVE BA HONS
100
Mylinh Nguyen Constructed Fabrication
www.mylinh-nguyen.com
—
info@mylinh-nguyen.com
‘Constructed Fabrication’ is an explorative investigation into how the boundaries of woven fabrics can be extended. Working within an armature of loom based woven materials the research will explore the boundaries of woven fabric and textile design. The work will amalgamate alternate craft practices into the woven designs with the intention of furthering our understanding of woven fabric. The aim is to renew and revive traditional weaving techniques to form a new approach to the craft and to explore the potential of collaborative creative practices.
Experience — Malhia Kent, Paris Jenny King Embroidery, Brighton WGSN, London
WEAVE MDES
102
Georgina Sury
georginasury@hotmail.com
1912 — ‘1912’ has been informed through research of one man’s journey from England to Australia. The letters he wrote home until his return in 1919 are explored though textiles which have been weathered, mended and augmented creating a relaxed, textural menswear story. Heritage themes are combined with bleached hessian surfaces, wools, woven mohairs and traditional suitings.
Experience — Harvey Nichols womenswear buying, London Orschel-Read, London Melin Tregwynt Woollen Mill, Wales
WEAVE BA HONS
104
Sarah Rosa Wilson www.sarahrosawoven.com sarahrosa.woven@gmail.com
Experience — Ahilya, London Jenny King Embroidery, Brighton
Digital/Tangible — ‘Digital/ Tangible’ explores the ways in which traditional handcrafted techniques may be digitally reproduced, and what aesthetic qualities are lost, or found, within the process. From Jacquard weave to digital projection, from digitally printed fabric to 3D printed woven structures, it aims to depict the wider impact of digital technology on the handcrafts through these digital visualisations of handwoven cloth.
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STAFF University of Brighton Faculty of Arts Vice Chancellor: Prof. Julian Crampton Dean: Prof. Anne Boddington School of Art, Design and Media Head of School: Karen Norquay Academic Programme Leader: Jake Leith Fashion Design Subject Leader: Jane Shepherd Fashion Design Senior Lecturers: Lilla Yip, Mason Yung, Craig Higgins Fashion Design Technical Demonstrators: Gael Mailhol, Juliana Sissons, Bennet Loveday, Katherine Graziano Fashion Design Visiting Lecturer: David Hopwood Visual Research Area Leader: Yvonne Deacon Knitted Textiles Area Leader: Toni Hicks Knitted Textiles Technical Demonstrators: Rachel Driver, Dr. Vikki Haffenden Printed Textiles Area Leader: Dr. Patrick Dyer Textiles Senior Lecturer: Leo Santos-shaw
Printed Textiles Technical Demonstrators: Rebecca Lu, Victoria Robinson, Sarah Wilson Woven Textiles Area Leader: Kirsty McDougall Woven Textiles Technical Demonstrator: Simon Driver Business Studies Area Leader: Jake Leith Business Studies Lecturer: Joanna Zara Contemporary & Historical Critical Studies: Coordinator: Annebella Pollen Contemporary & Historical Critical Studies Lecturers: Jane Hattrick, Marie McLoughlin, Dr. Charlotte Nicklas, Prof. Lou Taylor Academic Programme Administrator: James Barr Industrial Liaison Manager: Hilary Miller Industrial Liaison Coordinator: Esme Glazebrook, ZoĂŤ Burt Digital Manufacturer and Fabrication Technical Demonstrator: Chris Stokes Fine Art Printmaking Technical Demonstrator: Wayne Case Visiting Lecturers: Sue Allerton, Emma Doyle, Dr. Joan Farrer, Kay Howarth
SPONSORS
Catalogue Design Laura Gordon www.laura-g.co.uk Photography Luke AR Hamblin www.lukearhamblin.com Joan Alexander www.joanalexanderphotography.co.uk Models Pippa Atkinson Laura Clarice Webb Sebastian Knight Hair + Make Up Gabby Brayne www.electric-hair.com Becky Howie www.beckyhowie.wix.com Catalogue edited + compiled by Peter Graham Mylinh Nguyen Faye Baldwin, Isabel Crossman, Amelia Elstow, Lauren Morgan, Ben Rice, Katey Jane Smith