QUE HECATE?

Lying off the northern coast of British Columbia, Hecate Strait is the notorious body of water separating the islands of Haida Gwaii from the mainland. Strong winds and tides are funnelled over shallow waters, and Environment Canada lists Hecate as the most dangerous body of water on the Canadian coast (fourth most dangerous in the world.) John Vaillant, author of The Golden Spruce, put it this way: The strait is a malevolent weather factory. During winter storms, waves can reach 10-20m and expose the sea floor. The result is one of the most diabolically hostile environments that wind, sea and land are capable of conjuring up.

For mariners, Hecate carries a daunting reputation; demanding respect and instilling trepidation. It is the site of many tragedies and much suffering.

The Haida once routinely crossed the Strait in their great cedar canoes (up to 60 feet long, 6 feet wide and carrying 100 men), pillaging coastal nations then retreating back across the moody waters, where few dared to follow.

The history of other human powered crossings is scant. Masset kayaker Chris Williamson made two attempts in the 90’s; one successful, the other turned back at night by changing winds. Legendary painter Stewart Marshall from Sointula sailed a homemade kayak 200 nm across Queen Charlotte Strait in a SE storm, surviving for three days on popcorn and coffee before arriving at Cape St James. In 2008, a group of four young Haida Gwaii men crossed in double sea kayaks as part of a fundraiser. But Google ‘Hecate kayak crossing’ and you won’t find much.

Certainly no one had crossed on a paddleboard when Norm and I started discussing the possibility five years ago. But neither of us cared about being ‘first’— that seemed totally irrelevant. Rather, we were drawn to the sense of unknown.

Could the substantial challenges Hecate posed be safely overcome using the skills and abilities we were slowly accumulating on coastal waters? What insights and lessons might travelling this ancient Haida route offer?