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Home for the holidays in Bryson City
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story by Bill Bauer | photos courtesy of Bryson City Tourism Development Authority
From the parking lot at Clingmans Dome you can see for miles. A short climb to the viewing platform, however, provides 360-degree views of more than 100 miles. Photo courtesy of Shutterstock
The mountains of Western North Carolina stretch over 100 miles from Asheville to Tennessee and Georgia. In the valleys and on the hilltops of the Blue Ridge Mountains are countless towns offering opportunities for outdoor pursuits, with a little history and culture on the side. Bryson City is one such place.
Don’t let the name fool you. This “city” is an idyllic small town and gateway to the Great Smoky Mountains. It offers its own unique array of experiences, and its size and location make it the perfect destination to satisfy your craving for a few fun-filled days of adventure or a longer stay with some rest and relaxation in your itinerary.
WHERE TO STAY
The town has several lodging options, including chain hotels, cabins and bed and breakfasts. If you choose to park your car for a few days of small-town charm, grab a room at the historic Everett Boutique Hotel and Bistro. The hotel is housed in what was the first bank in Bryson City in 1904. It is on the corner of Everett and Main streets, near the Visitors Center and Historical Museum.
“We decided to purchase the building, which was a restaurant, back in 2014 seeing the need for some upscale dining and lodging,” said Ron LaRocque, who, with his partner Scott Mastej reopened the bistro-style restaurant and converted three upper floors into 10 luxury rooms with private baths.
Plush bedding, upscale towels and toiletries, and robes and slippers are in every room. Guests will find a comfortable sitting area on the third floor, and a 24-hour coffee bar and refrigerator on the second floor. At the end of a long day, enjoy a nightcap at the rooftop firepit overlooking the town. Guests at The Everett begin their day with a complimentary breakfast of made-to-order options. The menu includes, among other things, Belgian waffles, iron skillet quiche, eggs and a yogurt and granola plate. In the evening, the Bistro has remarkably diversified fare to fit all palates and appetites.
On the outskirts of Bryson City, lodging options include rental cabins that are set back in the mountains and located adjacent to streams and lakes. Glamping is an option as well. At Sky Ridge Yurts each of seven yurts comes complete with its own firepit. Nearby Gorgeous Stays has a “glampground” with a unique selection of tiny houses, tents and
{above} The historic Everett Boutique Hotel and Bistro is housed in what was the first bank in Bryson City in 1904. Located on the corner of Everett and Main streets, the hotel is always decked out for the holidays as is the Swain County Visitors Center and Historical Museum pictured in the background.
{left} The rooftop terrace of the Everett Boutique Hotel and Bistro is a popular gathering spot, even in the winter when guests huddle around this gas firepit.
AROUND TOWN
No trip to Bryson City is complete without a ride on the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad. Departing daily at 10:30, the 4 1/2-hour journey takes you through the countryside, crossing the Tuckaseegee and Nantahala rivers and across parts of Fontana Lake. Both open and closed cars, some with meals, are available along with a food and beverage car. You can even get a box lunch to take on the train. At the midway point, passengers have an hour to visit the Nantahala Outdoor Center, grab some grub, shop, and watch the rafters and kayakers in action.
Sometimes the best way to learn about the history and culture of an area is to seek out its museums. In Bryson City, the Visitors Center on Everett Street also houses the Historical Museum where you will see artifacts and displays illustrating early life in Bryson City and Swain County.
Across the street is the Fly-Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians. For a fly fisher, this is a Mecca of sorts, but even if you haven’t held a tight line on the river, it is a fun visit.
And, of course, at the train depot is the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad Museum. You don’t need to ride the train to visit the museum, but if you do, arrive early or stick around after your return because your train ticket also gets you into the museum. Enjoy over 70,000 collectible train pieces and a model train layout rated one of the Top 10 in the country.
FOODIE STUFF
Foodies will definitely enjoy Bryson City. The Everett Street Diner, a Bryson City landmark, serves a mountain man breakfast and hearty lunch, including a trademark Cuban sandwich. The Dip Stick, The Corvair, The Low Octane are entrees at The High Test Deli. The Box Car Café & Cones near the railroad depot is also a great spot before or after a train ride.
Two food trucks can be found outside Mountain Layers Brewing Company and the Bryson City Outdoors’ Taproom & Beer Garden. The Rice Wagon’s menu has an Asian/ Hawaiian fusion flair, and The Red Chef has a varied menu with everything from meatloaf and rice bowls to burritos and bologna. Pasqualino’s and Anthony’s specialize in Italian cuisine and pizza, and Guyabitos is Bryson City’s go-to Mexican restaurant.
Mountain Layers Brewing Company is one of three downtown taprooms offering a wide variety of standard and craft beers. Photo by Bill Bauer
BREWERIES & TAPROOMS
As Ben Franklin said, “Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy!”
Bryson City wants you to be happy, too, and with three downtown locations, happiness abounds. The Nantahala Brewing Company has been a mainstay in western North Carolina since 2009 with a brewery and taproom in Bryson City and taprooms in several other locations, including nearby Sylva. In 2017, the Bryson City Outdoor Store added a taproom to their bottle shop that boasted over 200 beers. They feature 12 taps pouring an ever-rotating selection of craft beer and cider from a variety of local and distant breweries. Mountain Layers Brewing Company, the dream of Kim and Mark Pettit, is centrally located on Everett Street and has indoor and outdoor seating including a rooftop bar overlooking the Tuckasegee River.
SIDE TRIPS
We’ve all heard the expression, “You can’t get there from here.” In Swain County, the old saying has real meaning. Exiting town on Lakeview Drive, a six-mile jaunt on a beautiful, winding and scenic mountain
The Deep Creek Recreation Area is only five minutes from downtown Bryson City, offering fly-fishing, hiking and waterfall viewing during the winter months.
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highway literally goes nowhere! The road, originally designed to provide families relocated to build the Fontana Dam access to family cemeteries, fell victim to environmental issues and construction was halted at a tunnel six miles out of town. Today it’s a wonderful drive with scenic views of Fontana Lake or a strenuous bike hike through the Smoky Mountain National Park. Along the way are three moderate hiking trailheads of less than three miles.
The Park’s most active recreation area, Deep Creek, is only five minutes from downtown Bryson City. There are oodles of hiking trails, three sparkling waterfalls, and fishing, tubing and swimming in a refreshing mountain stream. There are bike and horse trails (bring your own horse), and a beautiful setting for camping and picnicking. A tube rentals area is available outside the park. (Note: no pets allowed.)
A short drive to Cherokee leads to the park entrance and the beginning of a seven-mile, winding ride to the highest peak in the Smokies — Clingmans Dome. At 6,643 feet, panoramic views from the parking lot are amazing. But if you can handle a steep, half-mile trek, hike up to the observation tower at the summit, where from a platform perched on a 45-foot pedestal visitors get a 360-degree view of the Smoky Mountains spanning over 100 miles.
WINTER DOINGS
The Polar Express is an event not to be missed if you plan on being in Bryson City anytime during the holiday season. Based on the book of the same name, families are entertained during an excursion to the North Pole where they are met by Santa and his elves. Santa boards the train, and the excursion is complete with dancing and singing chefs and a reading of the book. Families dress in their pajamas, drink hot cocoa and eat cookies on the train. Everyone who “believes” in Santa gets a silver bell.
Merchants and vendors also bring the holiday season to life in downtown Bryson City. Decorated storefronts and windows abound,
Downtown Bryson City merchants do their part to brighten the holidays, decorating their storefronts and stringing hundreds of Christmas lights.
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The Polar Express event offered by the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad is a holiday event not to be missed. Families don their pajamas, board the train and enjoy an enchanted trip complete with Santa, dancing and singing chefs and hot chocolate for all.
and hundreds of holiday lights shine from the corner of Main and Everett to the train depot. At the Visitor Center, hot cocoa and cookie packets “to go,” along with Letters to Santa are treats for young and old.
While it may be a little too cold for tubing or floating, the trout fishing picks up dramatically as water temperatures drop. Two downtown fly shops will steer you to the hotspots or hook you up with one of several guide services.
Mary Anne Baker, executive director of the Swain County Tourism Development Authority, points out that Bryson City’s location and outdoor opportunities are key to its popularity.
“We are adjacent to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the Nantahala Gorge and the Blue Ridge Parkway, and we’re known for outdoor adventure and mountain beauty.” n
For information on lodging, the railroad and outdoor pursuits, visit www.explorebrysoncity.com
Walhalla Performing Arts Center
TICKETS MAKE GREAT HOLIDAY GIFTS!
APPALACHIAN ROADSHOW
Friday, Dec. 3 @ 7:30 PM
Ready to share its authentic & fresh approach with the public, the band went into the studio in 2018 & recorded its debut album, Appalachian Road Show.
THE LINDA RONSTADT EXPERIENCE
Saturday, Dec. 4 @ 7:30 PM
American Idol Star Tristan McIntosh creates a stunning portrayal of Linda Ronstadt in the prime of her career.
BLACK JACKET SYMPHONY
Thurs. & Fri., Dec. 9-10 @ 7:30 PM
The Black Jacket Symphony offers a unique concert experience by recreating classic albums in a live performance setting with a first class lighting and video production.
T. GRAHAM BROWN
Saturday, Dec. 11 @ 7:30 PM
T. Graham Brown is a legendary country music singer whose unique story & voice are still making an impact today.
IN THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT WITH EMILE PANDOLFI
Sunday, Dec. 12 @ 7:00 PM
Emile Pandolfi, widely celebrated for his sophisticated & magical piano style, invites you to join him in a delightful keyboard walk through his very own Winter Wonderland!
A JOHN DENVER CHRISTMAS
Friday, Dec. 17 @ 7:30 PM
Chris Collins & Boulder Canyon have toured internationally together delighting audiences with their talent, warmth & humor.