FOUR IMMUTABLE LAWS

By Jack Costa

My first meeting with Professor Robert Harrington began when I entered his office and found him with a bowl of cheese and a smoke gun. Turns out, this was a characteristic scenario; I soon discovered Robert was a food and wine guru that loved to experiment with a variety of elaborate and creative pairings.

In fact, his professional reputation resided mostly on the topic of food and wine pairing; he had even written a book on the subject. At the time, I was indifferent to the concept of combining wine and food (yes, gasp). In my defense, pairing the college budget staple of Top Ramen with a $100 bottle of Stags Leap might be sacrilegious.

During those college years, however, Robert (or Bob as we called him occasionally) began to slowly transform my perspective, showing me pairing food with wine was as important as drinking wine itself. Not only that - Bob also taught me how easy it really was. Unfortunately, many folks view pairing as tremendously difficult, intimidating even, believing it requires a certain degree of skill and expertise. I wish to dispel this myth and provide my four immutable laws of food and wine pairing (with four Michigan themed food pairings).

Pair wine and food of the same culture.

It may be no surprise that a rich German sausage will make a harmonious combination with a Mosel Riesling. The acidity of the Riesling in contrast with the sausage will provide an energizing finish by cleansing your palate of the grease. Another example

Continued on next page might be Tempranillo with Spanish paella, pasta and Italian Sangiovese, or even Greek Samos with baklava. This is perhaps the first and easiest rule to follow when looking to pair particular wines with a food. Generally speaking, foods and wines of the same cultures evolved within the same historical and cultural context and as such, are naturally compatible with one another.

Pairing Suggestion – Bonobo Blanc de Blancs with Better Made Potato Chips

Pair like with like

Integrating the flavors of both wine and food is about maintaining equilibrium. A sweet wine will pair very well with a sweet food. Likewise, an acidic wine will accompany nicely to the acidic ingredients of a dish. The key to successfully pairing “like with like” however, requires the taste of a wine to be equal or more pronounced in ‘weightiness’ than the food. The dish ingredients should never be sweeter or more acidic than what you’re drinking, since such an imbalance can produce a series of bitter, mouthpuckering flavors that will reflect poorly on the wine. You could pair an acid driven Sauvignon blanc with a salad drizzled with a light vinegar-based dressing. You could also pair a creamy Chardonnay with buttery popcorn or chocolate cake with Port. In a nutshell, the flavor in wine and its ‘weight’ should be equal to, or more intense, than the ‘weight’ and intensity of the dish.

Pairing Suggestion - St. Julian Port with Mackinac Island Fudge

Pair Tannic Wines with Protein Rich Food

Any wine with sufficient tannin concentration will make an ideal marriage with a protein rich steak swelling with oils, juice, and fat. Why? I’m glad you asked. Due to the polarizing properties of both tannins and protein, mixing them will elicit a reaction causing them to bind. This can further be

Pairing Suggestion – French Valley Cabernet Franc with Cornish Pasties

Pair Acidic Wines with Sweet, Salty and Savory Food

Deep Fried Chicken and Tempranillo probably won’t mesh because tannins and salt occasionally conflict by yielding bitter tastes. However, an acid driven Gruner Veltliner will knit fantastically with the grease and salt. A bacon wrapped date with a crisp, cool climate Syrah is another example. The savory and fatty bacon, with a touch of sweetness from the date, is balanced with the thread of acidity that drives the wine’s refreshing taste.

Pairing Suggestion – Black Star Farms Arcturos Dry Riesling with Detroit Pizza

Perhaps all this talk of cornish pasties, steak, and popcorn has you anxious to put down this magazine and start browsing your pantry for some delectable assortment of ingredients for your next meal. The importance of pairing is learning how to achieve synergy of wine and food, making them better together than apart. This always requires experimentation, not just reading. So, what are you waiting for? Pop a cork and get tasting!

About The Author

Jack is a writer, producer and content creator. At the age of 17, the Oregon native began studying winemaking under Stephen Reustle. Jack’s work has been featured in several publications, including Wine Folly and the American Wine Society Journal. Find him on the Wine Heretics podcast and at wineheretics.com