Journal of Two Campaigns by the Utah Territorial Militia Against the Navajo Indians, 1869

JOURNAL OF TWO CAMPAIGNS BY THE UTAH TERRITORIAL MILITIA AGAINST THE NAVAJO INDIANS, 1869

Edited by C. Gregory Crampton and David E. Miller

INTRODUCTION

The outbreak of the Black Hawk War (1865-68) between whites and the Ute Indians in central Utah soon spread to engulf the Mormon settlements in southern Utah and the Arizona Strip. Several of the Southern Paiute bands there, smarting under the advance of settlement, saw the time opportune to try to duplicate the raids of the Utes which were netting them plenty of beef and mutton to eat and horses to ride. The same inducements appealed to the Navajos who had moved into the wild country east of the Colorado River and south of the San Juan River after 1858 in the face of frequent warfare with the U.S. Army, and to escape the Bosque Redondo captivity, 1864-68.

Early in 1865 the Navajos stole some horses at Kanab, and in December Paiutes raided the same place. In January, 1866, Paiutes and Navajos killed Dr. J. M. Whitmore and Robert Mclntyre near Pipe Spring. In the spring of 1866, Joseph Berry, Robert Berry, and the latter's wife were killed by Indians at Berryville (now Glendale) in

Long Valley. Martial law was proclaimed following these attacks, and the outlying settlements were abandoned. Armed patrols, often assisted by friendly Paiutes, watched die trails between the Colorado River and the Mormon frontier, a vigilance that was necessary until peace was worked out with the Navajos by Jacob Hamblin in 1870.

The Paiutes seemed to be a lesser threat during these years than the Navajos whose raids across the Colorado River were particularly damaging, so much so that the Utah Territorial Militia of the Iron Military District countered most of their forays with punitive expeditions. These seldom engaged the enemy who struck and then retreated quickly to the safety of the east bank of the Colorado. It would appear that the Navajos during the course of this warfare forded the Colorado at the Crossing of the Fathers, a place also known to the Utes, Southern Paiutes, and first seen by white men when the Spanish Franciscans, Dominguez and Escalante, after whom it was named, crossed there in 1776.

One of the important results of the Mormon-Navajo war, 1865-70, was the opening of the country along the eastern base of the High Plateaus in the Colorado River Basin. Expeditions of the territorial militia may not have caught many Indians, but they explored the canyon country from the Paria River north to the Fremont River and brought back the first reports of the limited farming areas, grazing possibilities, and other resources, or lack of them. The war over, the retracted Mormon frontier in southern Utah and the Arizona strip was soon reoccupied and then quickly extended into new areas. Kanab was refounded and a fort was built at Pipe Spring. Settlements appeared along the Fremont River, near the head of the Escalante River, and at three places adjacent to the Paria River: Cannonville and other places near the head, Paria and Adairville in the middle reaches, and at the mouth Lee's Ferry which replaced the hazardous Crossing of the Fathers thirty-nine miles upstream and opened the way for the extension of the Mormon frontier into northern Arizona.

Two reports by Adjutant Edwin G. Woolley of campaigns of the Utah Territorial Militia of the Iron Military District in 1869 against raiding Navajos are published here for the first time. The first in reply to an attack on Long Valley and the settlements north of St. George provides an excellent description of the country traversed from Hurricane Hill to the Crossing of the Fathers. In the second the militia chased the marauders through the same region and caught up with them at Wahweap Creek. Both documents are carefully reproduced from the original made available by Edwin G. Woolley, Jr., son of the author now resident in Salt Lake City. The record is contained in a leather-bound book of lined leaves which have been partially numbered in pencil. The book contains miscellaneous tax records, computations, etc., in addition to the journal of the campaigns. Robert W. Inscore, Registrar of the Military Records Section, has been most helpful in preparing the manuscript for publication-.

EXPEDITION TO INTERCEPT NAVAJOE INDIANS WHO HAD STOLEN STOCK FROM SOUTHERN UTAH

Feb. 25th to March 12th 1869by Edwin G. Woolley

[In his typescript copy of 1917 Woolley introduces his journal of the first expedition with the following paragraph: |

"The company was called into service by the Commander [J. D. L. Pearce] of the Southern Military District, as Minute Men in the Utah Militia, on the 25th day February, 1869 ..."

Top: Lonely Settlement at Paria founded on the middle reaches of the river.

Bottom: Monument built by the Indians in the pasture of Moccasin Ranch

Thursday Feb. 25th 1869. Started from St. George Utah. Willis Coplan [Copelan], Capt - E. G. Woolley Adjt. Started at 9 o clock P. M. Took the old river road, easterly direction. Camped at foot of Hurricane Hill (arriving at about 3 o clock next morning). Windy, and very cold.

Friday 26th. Broke camp at daylight and started up hill; we had got part way up, when we saw something across dugway. Came nearer, and found it to be a barricade built of rock about 4 feet high. A noble piece of work. We suppose it to have been built for protection of frontier against indians. We have not learned who was projector, engineer, etc. We stepped 3 feet to one side, went around it and went on our way rejoicing.

Rode to Gools [Gould's] ranch 4 miles, watered and rode on to sheep trough, 6 miles. Here we overtook the Washington plattoon 9 men. 12 miles to Maxwells where we found the Virgen City plattoon camped, composed of 10 men. This makes our number 28 men. Turned out for a couple of hours, then saddled up and rode about 10 miles, over the Cedar Ridge summit and made camp in the Cedars, about 7 o clock P.M. Just as we left Maxwells, where the roads fork, we came to the trail made by the stock stolen by the indians. Some horses, mules, and cattle, in all perhaps 30 or 40 head. They took the road leading to Berry valley. Traveled north east direction.

Saturday 27th. Got up this morning early and moved on towards Pipe Springs. About 5 miles on road, Capt. Coplan [Copelan] detached a plattoon with Lieut. Clark to proceed to south end of pass, about 7 miles, to look for indian tracks. The rest of Company moved on to Pipe Springs, arriving just at daylight, making 10 miles this morning. [Traveled in an] easterly direction. Canab Jim and nine more indians came in to camp this morning. They report that they came over last night, that the Navajoes passed through Berry Valley on their way in, and killed one indian and two pappooses; and in coming back with stock, they turned off the Berry Valley road and passed just above Moccasin Springs, four or five days ago. This pass of Pipe Springs is 8 miles wide, running from the Springs south to a wash that runs into Grand Gulch, which begins 12 miles east from here, running south to the Colorado.

The country from Moccasin Springs 4 miles north from here, to Canab [Kanab], being 15 or 16 miles. [It] can be passed at most any point, making with this pass, about 24 miles of an opening to be guarded.

The party have just returned from the south, and report no fresh indian signs. It looks the same as it did three months ago. (This is the best stock range in this Southern Country. [The country] west from here 30 miles or more is a sea of grass, and running north east from here thirty miles the same.)

At 4 o clock P.M. today we received a dispatch from Col. Pierce [Pearce], saying that there had been another raid made; in half an hour we were in our saddles. Capt. Coplan sent one plattoon to guard this pass, another north to Canab, and we took indian guides and struck over the mountains north of Moccasin Springs, traveled about 10 miles north, and struck the trail made by last raid. We then took down a kanyon and traveled about 10 miles further in a westerly, and southerly direction, coming out where the Berry Valley road leads up a kanyon. This is where the trail turns off from Berry Valley road. We found no fresh signs. If there has been any more raids made, it is time they [the Indians] were here, if coming this way. It being midnight when we got here made camp and went to bed. We left indians with the other parties for expressmen in case they found hostile indians. Very cold traveling. Some snow in mountains.

Sunday 28th. One of our indians went out this morning, found a fresh horse track, followed it up, and brought back a horse left by the Navajoes. We sent an indian over the mountains east to tell Williams' party to return to Pipe Springs, if they had seen nothing suspicious. We then started for that place, taking an indian trail up a kanyon east, and then down a gulch south, coming out in the road up to the east of Cedar ridge; rode on to Pipe Springs, arriving about noon. We found a waggon of supplies here, it having arrived last night about 9 o clock.

When we left this place, we left the two expressmen and an indian. When the party with the supply waggon came to the house, the indian went to corner of the house to meet them. They spoke to him and he answered, but not understanding him they fired on him (two shots being fired), one shot taking effect, passing through his thigh, inflicting rather a severe flesh wound. The shots awaking the men in the house, they at last came to an understanding [of the situation].

Capt. Coplan, this afternoon, sent the waggon with the wounded indian into the settlements to be attended to. Another waggon arrived this afternoon with more supplies. We have now 500 pounds flour, 250 pounds meat, to start with. Sent a dispatch to Col. Pierce.

Lieut. Williams' party returned and reported they went to where the Navajoes camped, and found there were about 25 of them, that they had 5 pickets out around [the] animals, and well prepared for attack. (They could tell this from tracks). [The] plattoon returned from south, reports no signs.

Monday, March 1st. Capt. Coplan sent all the men home this morning but 21. [Those remaining] including himself. About 10 oclock A.M. we made ready to start for the Colorado. We have 21 men, 25 animals all together, a baggage waggon, (4 animals attached.) 200 pounds flour, 250 pounds meat, and 20 bushels corn. Rolled out at 10 o clock A.M. Watered at Moccasin Spring Creek, 3 miles north; traveled on east of north and more towards east until we came to Canab water, about 3 miles below old settlement, making 15 miles today. It is a very good country here for farming and grazing. 8 miles on the road from Pipe Springs we struck the trail made by the Navajoes and stock taken just before we left home. We have concluded that there was 50 head of stock. Weather pleasant today. Found a horse left by indians.

March 2nd, Tuesday. Broke camp this morning at 8 o clock. Left the horse found here as it was not fit for the trip. 12 miles to 12 mile kanyon. We did not go up to the mouth of canyon, where there is water, rode on 3 miles and stopped to bait. Went on to summit, where we saw ahead east of us the snow capped top of Spanny Shank Mountain, way beyond the Colorado, over a 100 miles from here. These raiding Navajoes live there.

Went a few miles farther and made camp, within 2 or 3 miles of Buckskin Mountains, making 24 miles today. We have been traveling in a circular direction since we left Pipe Springs; starting north, turning more east, until last few miles we were going nearly east, following round the mountain to our left. To our right is the valley that commenced at Hurricane Hill, and ends a few miles north east from here, at the north end of Buckskin Mts. These mountains run west of south to [the] Colorado. We get our water tonight from a hole in a small wash. It [the water] is not always certain. Cached a sack of flour, and one of corn, and built our fire over it.

Wednesday, 3d. Started this morning at 8 o clock, traveling parralel with the Buckskin Mountains about 8 miles to a summit; 5 miles to Peters Wash; 3 miles down wash to the Pah Reer, making 16 miles today; going east of north. The Buckskin Mountains taper off here, the river [Paria] running round [the] north end.

This river is about the size of the [Santa] Clara, the water being white with clay, smells and tastes bad; runs in a gorge, the sides mostly perpendicular. The appearance of the country has changed very much today; as we descended toward the river becoming more wild and barren. As far as the eye can reach north, the country looks rough and broken, the mountains red and white. Way to the left or north west, we can see what we suppose to be the Parowan mountains, covered with snow. In coming through the wash today we saw some very curious rocks, the mountains being composed of half decomposed rock worn in very curious shapes. The mountains seem to be washing down in to the kanyons, and from them into the river, and so down to the ocean. From the apearance of things it will not take many ages to "lower the hills and exalt the valley." There are a few cottonwood trees scattered along the river, but they look as if they were away from home.

The weather has been very warm today, we being considerably lower than we have been for some time. We got here about 2 o clock P.M., and made camp on north side of river. This is the lowest point we can take the waggon with safety, as the bottom is considerably washed out, and quicksand bad; although waggons have been taken as low as Shirts' old place, 5 miles down the river. We brought 4 pack saddles in the waggon, and fixed them up this afternoon for packing 4 mules with our outfit. Cached some more provisions here.

The trail we have been following on the road, turned off 12 miles back going over the Buckskin Mountains, to strike this river below this point, cutting off some in distance.

Thursday, 4th. Packed up and started about 9 o clock, down the river. A half mile down there is a pass between the rocks, about 30 yards wide; the rocks 125 feet high, leaning a little from the perpendicular. The water in striking the rocks has tunneled in the solid rock 50 feet, in 2 or 3 places; and the river washing the channel deeper, is boring into another place. A mile and a half from where we started this morning, a dry wash comes in from the left, and the river bottom widens here, the bluffs being low, composed of a kind of clay, or soft white stone.

2 1/2 miles from here, on our right, the land has slid off showing a vein of coal. A mile farther and we came to Peter Shirts' farm and houses. One of the houses is fire proof, built of rock, the roof shingled with thin rock. There is some tolerably good land here, but very little of it is safe from washing away. We have been traveling a little south of east. A mile farther and we left the Pah Reer to our right; The river running south east, through a narrow gorge.

We took an indian trail leading east over low mineral hills, perfectly barren. After going 3 or 4 miles, we got on to a more level country, where directly ahead of us, we see the Spanny Shank Mountain. It don't appear to be more than 40 miles from here, although it is 60 miles beyond the Colorado. To our left, towards the north, there is a range of steep bluffs running round towards the Colorado; towards the south the country looks broken, ahead we see the steep bluffs the other side of the Colorado. Stopped at 1 o clock and let the animals eat some sand grass, there being a little scattered over these barren hills; making 13 miles. Started on, and in half a mile we came to a wash running a little north of east. After going 7 miles, we came to where several washes came together, where we turned down the wash, going south of east, 6 miles, and came on to Warm Creek, making 26 miles today. The animals gave us the first intimation of the vicinity of water, by whinneying for there was no signs of water, the creek running down a wash similar to all the rest around this country. There is not a sign of a tree or bush, it being as barren as the rest of the sand and rocks. We can hardly find enough sand grass to give our animals a spear each. The water is as thick as the Pah Reer. The country has been increasing from bad to worse, ever since we left Canab. 7 miles from where we left the Pah Reer, where we struck the wash, we again came to the trail that turned off over the Buckskin Mountains, and crossed the Pah Reer considerably below where we left it. We have followed it all day. This is a new route for the raiding Navajoes, from where they turned off on the Berry Valley trail. This creek is half the size of the Pah Reer, at this point, and runs in an easterly direction. As it was nearly dark when we came here we made camp, and turned our animals on what little grass we could find close at hand.

Friday, 5th. We started early this morning, and traveled 2 miles, turned out and got breakfast. Got started off again about 10 o clock A.M. Two miles farther and the old Ute Trail came in from South, having kept down the Pah Reer and crossed over the hills east from where we did. There is considerable sand grass scattered along this wash. Saw several poor, scrubby, half dead willows, & three or four crows, but the crows kept up aloft, and did not attempt to alight in this place. Three miles farther to Capitol Rock. This rock stands in the bottom, and is about 300 feet in diameter the longest way, and 200 feet the shortest, is full 200 feet high; composed of white sand stone. We have been traveling south of east this morning. We here left Warm Creek to our right, taking to the east over a white sand hill.

If the deserts of Arabia or Africa are any worse than this place, we don't think we should like traveling in those countries. A mile and a half farther, and we came to a small creek, flowing through mineral which we call Mineral Springs. A half mile more, another small mineral creek. A mile and a half on the track there are several large castlated rocks, which we call Castle Group. Turn north east through Castle Group, and in a mile and a half [we] came to Cane Springs. This is a small stream that rises from springs close by this point. It is full of mineral. There could perhaps be enough water got to water 10 acres of land. Five acres would be the extent of land that could be used for farming purposes, and the most of this is liable to overflow. A few canes and a couple of dwarf cottonwoods grow on the bottom. We saw here where the Navajoes camped, with a few of their number, while the main body went on a mile and turned their stock on the side hill. Evidently they were prepared for pursuit, sending the main party in advance, while a few camped a short distance behind, that in case of pursuit they could detain the enemy, while the main party retreated. Rode east 4 miles to top of sandridge close to point of [a] steep rock bluff. A few miles directly ahead east of us, the other side of the Colorado, standing out in bold relief on a flat bench, is a large tower rock, which we called Beacon Rock. Towards the south this country is seamed with deep gorges. We can see what we suppose to be the mouth of the Pah Reer; and way beyond, through a gap in [the] mountains we can see the Buckskin Mountains, partly white with snow. Which ever way we look we see red or white sandstone mountains, except the slight glimpse of the Buckskin Mountains, and directly ahead, seeming close at hand, is the snow covered Spanny Shank Mountain, towering above all the rest. Towards the north east there is another curious rock mountain, something the shape of a steam boat, with wheel house and smoke pipe; between 2 and 3 hundred yards in length, and a hundred feet high, and the round tower, or pipe a hundred and seventy five feet. We call this Steamboat Rock.

We turned from top of hill to north east, following round base of rock cliffs on our left 3 miles to Gun Sight, to left of Steamboat Rock. This Gun Sight is a cleft in the solid rock mountain, wedge shaped, about a foot wide at bottom, in narrowest place, and 200 feet through, and a hundred feet high. 20 men could guard this pass against an army. There is a moccasin trail turns to right down gulch [Gunsight Canyon], towards river; but we do not think that stock can be driven that way.'

We passed through Gun Sight, down a steep rock, into an opening or valley in rocks. Whichever way we look it is nothing but rock mountains, in fantastic shapes. It is rocks around, rocks above, rocks beneath, rocks in chasms, rocks in towers, rocks in ridges, rocks everywhere. It is in fact all rock. What little dirt there is is decomposed rock. We commenced descending towards the river, East, and after going up rocks, down rocks, over rocks, around deep chasms in rock for nearly three miles, we came near the edge of gorge the river runs in. The trail that goes down to the ford, that the indians drove their stock down, goes down the solid rock into the chasm. It looks very steep. It flows quietly with scarcely a ripple to break the smoothness. The river comes from the east for a short distance, then turns to the south for a quarter of a mile, then back towards [the] east, forming a horse shoe. Where we came down is near the north end of round part of horse shoe. This is the point that the Navajoes took the sheep across, taken from Whitmores three years ago.

7 This day Copelan and his men traveled from the mouth of Coyote Gulch to the

mouth of Kane Creek on the Colorado, a mile above the Crossing of the Fathers. They went down Wahweap Creek to Lone Rock, which Woolley accurately describes, calling it Capitol Rock. For most of the rest of the trip until they returned to the same area on March 6, they were traveling through country which will be flooded eventually by the waters of Lake Powell impounded behind the Glen Canyon dam. The party turned out of Wahweap Wash in the vicinity of Lone Rock. The Castle Group, now called Castle Rock, is a picturesque isolated pile of rocks standing over 600 feet above the surrounding terrain. Cane Springs are found in the bed of Warm Creek just above the ruins of several rock cabins built there about 1910 by the American Placer Corporation. The landmark they called Beacon Rock is now Tower Butte. The Steamboat Rock is now called Gunsight Butte; it stands well over 700 feet above the surrounding area. The Gunsight described by Woolley is now called Gunsight Pass.

The "Old Ute Trail" is not easy to identify, but it probably refers here to a trail which wriggles up over the Echo Cliffs at Lee's Ferry and strikes the Wahweap near Capitol Rock. A trail by this name frequently appears in the literature of the region; it usually refers to a route running up the Paria River from about the location of Peter Shirts' place to the head, near Bryce Canyon, and thence to the open valleys of the East Fork of the Sevier and of the parent stream.

The ford is about a quarter of a mile down the river from here. Across the river the rocks shelve down to [the] water, til it looks possible that animals might swim across and get out on the other side, as there is a sandbank on the shore. But we are not certain but what it is quicksand. The water of the river is clear and good. There is a small creek of pure clear water comes out from between the rocks at this point. We have traveled 22 miles today. Weather pleasant.

Saturday, 6th. This morning before breakfast a few of us walked down to the ford to examine it the best we could without crossing. We climbed back over the rocks, and back to where we commenced to go down into the gorge that leads to the river. It is all solid red sandstone, and it looks like folly to attempt to descend with animals, and considerably like work for man to descend the chasm. But down we start, and after winding and turning to the right and left, and sliding straight down over the rock, we at last arrived at the bottom of the gulch. It is 400 feet from top to bottom. The bottom is from one to three rods wide and is filled with sand. There is a beautiful stream of water running down the bottom. Considerable willows and canes are growing along the creek. The creek spreading over the most of the bottom, makes it very miry, and we saw several places where the indians had dragged out animals. They cut willows and fixed the worst places. The rocks stand on either side 2 and 3 hundred feet high.

We traveled down about a quarter of a mile, and came out on a level with the river, but by turning sharp around the corner of the perpendicular rock to the right down the river, over some lose rock and dirt washed up by the river, we can keep out of the water. The river here is 250 yards wide. In fording they pass over this loose dirt 200 yards, to where it ends, then keeping close to the rock, ford down the river about a hundred yards, when they strike on to a narrow strip of grass bottom: from here strike across the river, landing where the river commences to bend towards the east. This is about a quarter of a mile [actually over a mile] from where we are camped, down the river. After seeing all we could we started back up the gorge. We found it hard work to get down here, but we found it harder work to climb up again. We at last arrived at camp, after a hard walk of 3 miles, it being that far around. Took breakfast and made ready for starting, getting off about 10 o clock A.M.

We took back our old trail. Had some trouble to get up the steep rock, one horse falling and sliding down 12 or 15 feet, and one of the pack mules had hard work to climb up, not being used to packing.

When we got back within a mile of Gun Sight, at the head of a deep chasm, the Captain sent 8 men on foot around the east side of Steamboat Rock, to see if there was any chance to drive stock around that way, if so it saves passing through Gun Sight. We passed on through Gun Sight, and a mile on the road, the boys met us having passed round. They report that it is practicable for stock driving, but that it is about a mile farther. We have about come to the conclusion that the indians can drive stock most anywhere, after seeing where they have taken them.

Rode on to Cane Springs, watered. We here turn off our old trail, turning for the mouth of the Pah Reer. Took to the east of Castle Group traveling south of west til we came to the gorge that Warm Creek runs in, but not being able to cross it, we traveled up some distance, till we were about southwest of Cane Springs and of Castle Group, where we crossed over Warm Creek, and camped on the sand hill where there is very good feed; making 3 miles from Cane Springs; making 13 miles today. Warm today.

Sunday, 7th. We started this morning about 9 o clock. When we got to top of sand hill, the country looked comparatively level for several miles ahead, to a rocky ridge. Beyond that we can see a high bluff, where we suppose the mouth of the Pah Reer to be. Rode 6 miles over a level sandy bench, when we came to a broken, rough country. We have been traveling paralel with the Colorado, and within two miles of it some of the way. After riding about 3 miles over the rocks, we found some water in holes in the rocks. Watered our animals, and moved on over the rock ridge, 3 miles farther.

We were moving along quietly, when suddenly we came to a halt on the brink of a precipice, where a magnificent view appears directly before us. We have come directly to the junction of the Colorado and Pah Reer rivers. The rocks we are standing on are at least 600 feet high. Directly below us are the two rivers, the Colorado flowing southwest and the Pah Reer south east. Looking south there is an open country for 5 miles, to where the Colorado flows around the Buckskin Mountains. The valley is 15 or 20 miles wide at widest place. The Colorado makes a turn and runs south, winding its way through a deep cut in the solid rock. The valley is seamed with chasms and crevices. The Buckskin Mountains form part of the west and south sides of [the] valley. We can see about 4 miles up the Pah Reer Gulch, and from where we stand the river looks like a small creek.

There are a few cottonwoods along the river, but from here, with the naked eye they have the appearance of small trees; but by using the glasses we have, we can tell they are a good size. There are 25 acres of land that could be farmed in small patches within two' miles of the mouth of the river. Just where the Pah Reer empties into the Colorado there seems to be a great many rocks in the Colorado. The water runs swift, looking quite rough, and we can hear the roaring of the water from where we stand. But just above, the river looks smooth and still. There is a chance to get across the river here by swimming; there being a trail down the rocks here and a pretty good chance to get out on the other side. There are some cedars on the other side, way up in the rocks. We don't know whether they can be got at or not.

There is no wood on the Pah Reer of any consequence. There is perhaps enough grass along the Pah Reer to feed several head of stock the year round. We can see, by looking through the glass, a heavy body of timber on the south part of the Buckskin Mountains.

We stayed here an hour or so, and then started back. Went to water holes in rock and turned out and got supper. Clouded up today and looked very much like a storm. It is 12 miles from where we camped on Warm Creek, to the river, and 3 miles back on our trail to water holes; making 15 miles travel today. The clouds passed off this evening.

Monday, 8th. We got off this morning at 8 o clock. We turn off our trail here, striking across the country for the Pah Reer. We turned up a large hollow, running west of north, took over the hills to our right, and down over the rock into another hollow, where we found a large pool of water in the rock. It has the appearance of being a place where water could be got any time of the year, as there is a large place to gather and hold the rain. The water is pure and cold. This is about 9 miles from where we started this morning. It being 11 o clock when we got here, we turned out on the sand hills and got our dinner. Got off again at 1 o clock P.M.

We are traveling along paralel with Warm Creek, the most of the time, going North West for about 12 miles, then turning more towards the west, striking for where we went down into the wash which leads to Warm Creek. 8 miles farther and we came to the wash just below where we struck it going the other way. 10 miles back we came into the old Ute Trail, and traveled on it a short distance.

When we were going paralel with Warm Creek, we were within a mile of it some times. It was dark when we got here, and we turned out and got supper, staying a couple of hours. Saddled up and started to go out of wash; it being dark we did not go out our old trail, but below it. Captain put two men ahead for guides, and instead of going west, which would have taken us to where we left the Pah Reer in going out, they took north. We traveled along 4 or 5 miles. Came to the mountain north of the Pah Reer, climbed up it some distance till we came to a jump up, and concluded we would go no farther in that direction. The guides admited that they were slightly turned around. We then turned and went south for a while, then struck west till we came into the low mineral hills. We then knew we were in the right direction, and thought we would camp while our credit was good, it being about midnight, and there being some little grass.

We had wandered around 3 hours, coming 5 miles from where we started. We had considerable amusement with all our trouble. We were all certain that we were right and all the rest wrong. Some thought that we were not lost, but it was the Pah Reer was wandering, and we were all positive that we knew exactly where we were, but we did not know exactly where we wanted to get to.

We had quite a laugh, occasioned by a lash rope coming loose from one of the pack mules, & getting tangled around the legs of a horse one of the boys was riding, turning horse and rider a somersault, the man under. As he came crawling out from under his horse, we asked what was the matter? He replied that, "he didn't know." The bewildered look of the man, and the horse being flat on his side, was too much for our risibles to stand, and we made the mountains ring with our laughter. We at last thought of asking him if he was hurt. "No," says he, "The ground was soft." After unwinding the rope the horse managed to get up, not hurt, but with an abstracted look, saying nothing.

Tuesday, 9th. After sleeping on it we got up early this morning, and found ourselves within 25 yards of our old trail, having passed over it last night. We now knew where we were. Saddled up and rode on two miles, when we came to the Pah Reer. Traveled up the river to where we left our waggon, and got breakfast. Dug up our cache, and found it all right. Started on at 1 o clock, and rode to water hole, 16 miles, and turned out to feed. There is no water here, we having used it all up when we were here before. Resurrected our cache, all right. After supper, saddled up and went about 10 miles and camped about midnight, making a dry camp.

Wednesday, 10th. Roused up at daylight, and rode 14 miles, to Canab, and got breakfast. Found the supplies sent for from Pipe Springs. They got here on the 7th. There are 7 men, six horsemen with a waggon and one span of animals. We have one feed left of corn from what we took with us. We expected grain enough to last us home to be sent with the supplies, but they have brought nothing but 150 pounds flour, and 80 pounds meat. We have some provisions left yet, from what we had along. They brought a dispatch from Major Steel, saying that from reports of friendly indians, the Navajoes are still in the mountains and that there were ten Parowan and Cedar indians, Panguitch John and Charley Hurd [?] [all] on the look out for Navajoes signs that they might give us some help, as they profess great friendship.

The men that brought the supplies report that Panguitch John and three others came to them half an hour after they got to Canab, and told them that the others had got tired and turned back. They said that they had been to examine where the Navajoes had killed the indians in Berry Valley; and that it was done by 6 Navajoes, 3 on horses, and 3 on foot; that they came across the Colorado at the same time as those that took the stock, but that they went to Berry Valley and did their killing, and went back and waited on the trail till the others came up with the stock. The reason Panguitch John gives for the Navajoes killing the indians is that it was for revenge for the killing of some of their number. He says that he thinks that the Navajoes are all out of the country. These indians stayed with the men two nights, and left this morning, saying they were going back home. Before they left they told the men that a coyote told them that we would be here at noon. They either made a good guess or knew something of our movements.

After a stay of 2 or 3 hours we moved on. We took out what supplies was sent from the relief waggon, and then their animals gave out, and we had to put in some of our animals that have been to the Colorado, to take our reinforcements into camp. Went on to Pipe Springs and camped, getting there at 5 o clock, P.M. The captain thinking that here was the most dangerous place on our route, camped out from the houses, in the grass, so we could have our animals around camp, as usual.

Thursday, 11th. Started this morning at 8 o clock and rode to Maxwells, and got dinner. Stopped about 3 hours, moved on to Sheep Troughs, and made camp.

Friday, 12th. Got off this morning about 6 o clock, watered at Gools [Goulds]. At forks of road, the baggage waggons turned down towards Toquerville. Went on across the Virgen, and turned out for an hour, then rode to St. George, arriving at 3 o clock, P.M. We were gone 16 days, and traveled all together 384 miles. We had very good weather generally, plenty of flour and bacon to eat, and grain for our animals, the trip round. We lost no time riding days and parts of some nights. We visited the places we were sent to, and did as near right as we knew how.

JOURNAL OF EXPEDITION TO CANAB FOR SCOUTING AND INTERCEPTING INDIANS

Nov. 5th to Nov. 18th, 1869by Edwin G. Woolley

[In his typescript copy of 1917 Woolley introduces his journal of the second expedition with the following paragraph:]

"The Indians had continued their depredations on the stock of the settlers, and during the early part of November 1869 a party of Navajoes had raided some of the settlements north of St. George and driven off a band of horses. The military authorities of the Iron Military district detailed Colonel James Andrus with a detachment of the Militia to pursue the thieves; and Edwin G. Woolley was called to go as the Adjutant of the Company. The following is taken from the journal of the expedition as written by the camp fires during the trip, by Adjutant Woolley."

Started from St. George Friday Nov 5th 1869. Our party started with Col. James Andrus, acting adjt E. G. Woolley Jacob Hamblin Sam'l Crosby, George Lytle & Joseph Judd. A baggage waggon, with 4 mules. Three men horseback three in the waggon. Started at 2 o clock in the morning, went to Washington, and routed up 4 men, went on, leaving them to follow. Got to Toquer[ville] at 10 o clock A.M. Got dinner and Started about noon. Col Andrus & acting Adjt. E. G. Woolley went on ahead to get some more men from the settlements on the River; the Baggage waggon with the rest of the men. (The Washington boys having come up) will turn off at Virgen City, and take the road leading to Gools Ranch.

We went on to Duncans Retreat and stopped for the night. Got one man from Virgen City and one from Duncans Retreat. Sent an order to Capt. Terry [of] Rockville to have an indian and a white man, with a horse stationed at the foot of Shonesburg Hill to use as expressmen if needed.

Saturday Nov 6th Started this morning, taking the trail over the mountains, which comes out near the Sheep Troughs. Saw the waggon coming on the road. Went on to Maxwells and turned out our horses to bait. The rest of the men with waggon came up. Got dinner and moved on and got to Pipe Springs at 10 o clock P.M. Rained some this evening. The men, Prest. Snow [sent] here have built a Stable near the house that animals can be secure. Put some of the horses in the stable, and the rest in the field. There is a small stack of hay put up here.

Sunday 7th Started early this morning. Col. Andrus sent three men down to the Grand Gulch [Kanab Creek] to look for signs, the others going on to Canab fort, arriving about noon. Found Bro. Judd with another white man, and some indians. The other man that belongs here had taken the most of the able bodied indians and gone to the north end of Buckskin Mountains to look for signs, they are expected back today, or to send word.

About 5 o clock an indian express arrived by way of Shoonsburg [Shonesburg] with a letter from Capt. Terry acknowledging the receipt of the order sent on the 5th and also a dispatch from Major Steel, stating that he was requested by Gen'l Snow to express us that another raid had been made, the stock being taken on the 6th from Ritchie's, Little Pinto, going north of Kannarra [Kanarraville]. The men sent across the country to Grand Gulch returned and report no signs.

At 7 o clock P.M. Col. Andrus and 9 men started for the Pah Reer to intercept the indians. 13 miles on the road, at the mouth of Scoom Pah Canyon we came on the camp of John Smith and the indians that went from Canab. They report that they went to Hun Gah Toh Canyon and came to the trail made by the stock taken lately. We then started on taking Smith and 4 indians with us. Went about 9 miles farther on the waggon road to Pah Reer and then took to the left over the hills about 9 farther to Hun Got Toh Pass, Getting here about 7 o clock A.M. Monday 8th having ridden all night. The weather very cold.

This Kanyon opens out on the waggon road about 10 miles from the Pah Reer but by turning over the hills to the left going down the kanyon about 12 miles you come out at the hill going down to the Pah Reer. This is where the stock taken this fall has been taken out. We suppose from the tracks about 80 head. The horses taken on the 5th have not passed this way yet. If they are coming this way we are ahead of them. Col. Andrus had ordered some men with pack animals to follow us with provisions; they were to start this morning.

Turned our horses to bait in a side kanyon near where the Piutes attacked the Navajoes that had the mare and colt a few days ago. There is blood here from the wounded Navajoes. We laid here today, resting and sleeping, waiting for the Navajoes to make their appearance. Stationed a picket guard a short distance up the Canyon to night. Tied up our horses and kept camp guard.

Tuesday 9th Four men with an indian with our pack animals came in to camp this morning at sunrise. Col. Andrus sent an indian to the Pah Reer to see if any Navajoes had passed down the Ute trail. Came back at dark and reported that there were no fresh indian signs. Stationed an indian today some distance up the Canyon as a look out, laid here on the watch. There is not much water in this Canyon, but we have had plenty so far for our animals.

Wednesday 10th Laid here til about noon Col Andrus sent 7 men on to the Pah Reer 6 miles below Shirts, and 7 of us started back for Canab. Got about 4 miles on the back trail, we came on to a fresh trail, which came down a small Canyon. There were about 12 horses and we thought 2 indians. In five minutes we sent our pack mule on to Canab with our blankets and provisions by an indian, and we took the trail, struck across the Buckskin Mountains, into the Great Gulch on east side of Buckskin Mts. over a steep back bone of rocks, down a wash into the Pah Reer, about where the other party are going to but we are ahead of them. Watered horses and struck across into the Clay Wash. Got lost in it and wandered about for nearly an hour, at last got out, and on we went til 11 o clock P.M. Laid down by our fire, in a circle, and dozed a little. Very cold, no blankets, no grub.

Got off again an hour before daylight Thursday 11th, turned too much to the right, lost the trail and got up on top of the bench to the west of Warm Creek, where it is perpendicular rock on the side next Warm Creek.

Went on near Warm Creek. Got on edge of bluff and down below us we caught sight of the indians traveling slowly. We started off lively, went about 5 miles, struck a wash went down it and came down just behind them as they were passing through a small cliff of rocks; there are eight (8) of the Navajoes with 12 horses. There are 6 of us, Bro. Jacob Hamblin having got behind. The indians do not see us. We get behind them to within 150 yards of them. They are just passing through the ledge as 5 of us fire at them from behind. One of our men is holding the horses behind us. At the fire we think 2 of them are hit. They instantly drop behind the ledge and fire on us. They drive their horses round to the right on a point of rocks in sight of us, where we cant get at them without passing over the ledge they are behind. The ledge extends around to the left farther than where we are and there is a gulch on our right which brings us inside of a half circle which they have possession of. We have a cedar tree and a few low rocks for shelter, but it is so that they can reach us from the left of their position.

They made the balls whistle around our heads. We fire when we see any of their heads above the rock. Exchanged shots for about 15 minutes, and finding that our position was becoming pretty critical, we moved back got on our horses and while the bullets were whistling around we moved slowly off out of gunshot range and held a council and concluded our lives were worth more than the horses.

The Navajoes seemed to have Spencer rifles from the sound of the balls. This skirmish took place at 9 o clock Thursday, 11th, Nov. 1869. Started back got to the Pah Reer found the rest of our party then went to Shirts and camped.

Friday 12th Started of [f] this morning traveled all day and got to Canab at 1 o clock A.M.

Saturday 13th Sent a dispatch to General Snow. The indians think the Navajoes are all out of the country. Laid here to day waiting orders from Gen. Snow.

Sunday 14th. Held meeting to day in the evening the indians had a Medicine dance about 50 of diem performing.

Monday 15 th A few of us took a trip up Canab Canyon about 6 miles, to see quite a curiosity in nature. A cave in the solid rock mountain with a lake of pure, clear water. The cave being about 250 feet long, 60 feet wide and 20 feet high at the mouth, sloping down toward the back. The lake fills the cave except a few feet of the front. Came back found no dispatch from Genl. Snow.

The old fort at Pipe Spring on the Utah-Arizona border, now a National Monument.

The lake in Three Lakes Canyon, a fork of Kanab Creek, SIX rniles above Kanab, is still to be seen on U.S. Highway 89.

Tuesday 16th This morning before day fight an indian brought the expected dispatch, ordering us home. We got off at 11 o clock A.M. and rode to Cedar ridge, getting here about 9 o clock P.M.

Wednesday 17th Got up early, rode to Maxwells, and nooned and then rode to foot of Hurricane Hill and camped.

Thursday 18th

Rode home today, arriving in good season.

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