Military Reconnaissance in Southern Utah, 1866

MILITARY RECONNAISSANCE IN SOUTHERN UTAH, 1866

EDITED BY C GREGORY CRAMPTON

The extension of American rule in 1848 over the region and the rapid colonization by the Mormons after 1847 posed serious problems for the Indians living on both sides of the canyon country of the Colorado River basin. On the eastern side American relations with the Navajos ran a stormy course until a majority of the tribe was starved out of their stronghold in Canyon de Chelly and exiled to Bosque Redondo in 1864. In 1868 the Indians were permitted to return and were assigned to a reservation astride the Arizona-New Mexico boundary. During the course of the warfare and exile, many Navajos fled into the canyon lands of the San Juan country. Others worked their way westward toward the Colorado River and crossed it to raid the settlements on the advancing Mormon frontier, which was already plagued with Indian difficulties.

The Mormons in pushing their settlements southward through central Utah had early encountered Indian resistance. The Walker War, 1853-54, was followed in 1865 by a general outbreak of the Utes in central Utah and of the Paiutes in southern Utah and northern Arizona. This uprising, called the Black Hawk War, caused a serious retraction of the Mormon frontier and cost many lives before it was brought to an end by the Utah Territorial Militia in 1868. During the war the Navajos crossed the Colorado, often teamed up with the Paiutes in the fight against the southern settlements, and did not make a general peace until 1870.

The war in the south began when Navajos early in 1865 stole some horses at Kanab. More serious incidents followed. J. M. Whitmore and Robert Mclntyre were killed near Pipe Spring in January 1866; a few months later the Berry family was killed in Long Valley. Martial law was now proclaimed; outlying settlements were abandoned; and units of the Iron Military District, Utah Territorial Militia, were sent against the maurauders. During the course of its campaigns the militia explored much new territory bordering the canyon country of the Colorado River. When the war was over the retracted Mormon frontier in southern Utah and northern Arizona was soon regained and was then extended into the newly discovered farming areas.

One of the more significant campaigns was ordered into the field August 15, 1866. James Andrus, captain, was placed in command of a company of cavalry, consisting of five platoons — a total of 62 officers and men. The orders issued by Brigadier General Erastus Snow, dated at St. George, called for an examination of the country bordering on the Colorado River from the Buckskin Mountain (Kaibab Plateau) to the mouth of the Green River. All the crossings of the Colorado within this distance were to be examined; the hostile Indians were to be chastised; and the friendly Piedes, "Ki-babbits," and others were to be conciliated. Andrus was ordered to "learn all you can of the facilities and resources of the country" and to make an accurate report of the campaign.

The command traveled eastward to Kanab by a well-established route and then, heading generally northeastward, reached the summit of Boulder Mountain (Aquarius Plateau) after crossing the upper tributaries of the Paria and Escalante rivers. In the mistaken belief that they could see the mouth of Green River from that point, the militiamen returned to St. George by way of Grass Valley, Circleville, and Parowan. They had ridden 464 miles and had spied out some new land soon to be brought under the plough. One man, Elijah Averett, Jr., was killed in the only encounter with the Indians.

Adjutant Franklin B. Woolley filed a report of the expedition, together with a chart of the country explored and the official muster roll. All three documents, from the manuscript collections in the Military Records Section of the Utah State Archives, are published here.

Franklin Benjamin Woolley, born in Ohio in 1834, was a member of a prominent pioneering family in southern Utah. He met an early death at the hands of Mojave Indians near Victorville, California, in 1869, the same year that his brother, Edwin G. Woolley, served as adjutant for two more campaigns against the Navajos. F. B. Woolley's report of the 1866 expedition is an important first description of the rough canyon country sloping off eastward from the rim of the Great Basin and the high plateaus to the Colorado River. The chart is probably the earliest portrayal of the region based upon actual exploration.

The report is hand-written on legal-size paper and is a probable copy of the original. It is printed as it was written with a few slight changes in punctuation to improve the clarity. Two other documents, the chart (here reproduced) and muster roll, are originals.

REPORT OF RECONOITERING EXPEDITION MOUTH OF THE GREEN RIVER, 1866

Brigadier General Erastus Snow.Dear Sir:

James Andrus, Capt. F. B. Woolley, Adjt.

City of St. George Washington CountyUtah Territory Sept. 18, 1866

I have the honor to report the return to Head Quarters of the Volunteer Cavalry Company under my command late on service as a reconoitering party to the Buckskin Mountain and the country between there and the mouth of Green River.

In accordance with Brigade Order No 14 this company was mustered into Service on the 16th Ultimo. Myself and part of the Company rendezvoused at Gould's Ranche 26 miles East from this place on the 16th and 17th Ult. The remainder were directed to proceed via Parowan and the Seveir and join us on the head Waters of Pah Rear [Paria River]. On the 18th we left Gould's Ranche proceeding by the main wagon road made up Gould's Kanyon which affords a good pass of easy grade to the Pipe Springs Plateau.

This plateau is the second table or elevation above the Rio Virgin Eastward from St. George and extends from Gould's Ranche East to the Buckskin mountain about 60 miles and from the foot hills of the mountains bordering the Rio Virgen to the south about the same distance to the Breaks of the Colorado. The western and Southern face of this plateau is a nearly perpendicular wall of rock from 800 feet to 1000 feet above the level of Virgen River. A Steep difficult pass near Old Grafton, Gould's Pass, and one Still farther to Southward, Almost impracticable up "Black Rock" Kanyon, are the only passes yet discovered, to this plateau from the west or South sides.

On Sunday the 19th we reached "Pipe Springs" or Whitmore's Ranche East from St. George about 60 miles south about 5 miles. Here we procured 4 beeves which we killed and dried.

On Tuesday 21st we numbered in Camp, 1 Capt., 1 1st Lieut., 1 Bugler, 4 2nd Lieuts, 4 Serjeants, 35 Privates, well outfitted with 1 Saddle horse to each man, 1 pack animal for Each two men, and forty days rations. Equipped generally with one good long range rifle and two revolvers each.

From Pipe Springs to Canab [Kanab] Settlement our course was generally N E Skirting the base of a high red Sandstone Mountain on our left. First 5 or 6 miles over a sandy ridge among cedars [was over] heavy road, remainder of road good, distance 18 miles. The fort and houses [at Kanab] remain in the same condition as when abandoned by the settlers last March. This place would support a Settlement of from 30 to 50 families and a military post here would command the passes of the Buckskin mountain and the trails leading in to the Settlements on the Virgen. Leaving Canab, instead of following the main trail to the East across the Buckskin Mountain to Shirts Ranche on the Pah Rear, a few miles East from Canab, we turned to N.N.W. up Kanyon Ranche Kanyon thence N. E. by Scootembaugh Ranche and head of Silver Kanyon and the upper end of the Buckskin Mountain to Pah Rear Valley. The pass by this trail is high, in winter covered with snow to considerable depth, some parts rough with Steep difficult crossings of Breaks and washes putting in to the Pah Rear.

The Buckskin Mountain is a high plateau extending from the rim of the basin, near the [head] waters of the Virgen and Sevier riveres about one hundred miles E. N. E. from St. George to the Southward, bearing a little to the west, to the Colorado River, a distance of about 60 or 70 miles when the river breaks through the mountain in a deep narrow gorge. The range Continuing on towards the Sanfrancisco Mountains of Arizona. The Mountain presents to the eye a generally level surface on top with an average width from 10 to 15 miles broadening to the Southward with occasional buttes, rising above the level. The western Side Steep, wall like, with two or three kanyons affording passes to the Summit, which is rough [and] covered with Pine timber. Only two or three watering places on the western side. The waters from Snow and rain flow down the sides forming numerous deep gullies in the Mountain and then discharge by a deep narrow precipitous impassable gorge from Near Pipe Springs Ranche to [the] Colorado, a distance of about 50 miles. (This gorge effectually prevents any parties from reaching the South end of the mountain from the west without passing in sight of Pipe Springs.) The Southern face of the mountain supposed to be a Sheer precipice to the River. The Eastern face, Steep, rough, occasional Springs and watering places in the rocks, Shedding down, to a lower plateau and Pah Rear.

Upper Pah Rear Valley or basin is nearly circular in Shape, about 20 miles in diameter. The South Eastern boundary is a gradual Slope rising to a ridge about the altitude of Pipe Springs plateau then breaking Square off in that direction to a lower plateau. The South and S. Eastern face of the ridge presenting an impassable rock wall for a distance of about 50 miles, from the eastern base of the Buckskin Mountain to the "Old Ute Crossing" of the Colorado, with the exception of "Pah Rear Kanyon"; a narrow gorge through which the waters of Pah Rear discharge, and affording a pass from Shirts Ranche to Pah Rear Basin. The other sides of the Valley are formed by the Buckskin Mountain on W'est, the rim of the basin bending out to North forming the arc of a circle, on the north; and on N.E. and east, by a spur of the mountain extending from the rim of the basin to S.S.E. to the Colorado. Over this spur of the mountain there are two passes into a similar valley to this called by us Potatoe Valley. One around the south side of Table mountain lying East from Camp No. 7 on Pah Rear (see chart), the other to the north of Table Mountain and between it and a high perpendicular faced white sandstone point of the rim of the basin seen to our N.E. and distant about 20 miles. There are also two passes to the North leading, one up the main north branch of Pah Rear over the rim of the basin to the East fork of the Sevier usually known as the "Ute trail" one up a More westerly branch of Pah Rear to the Seveir and thence to the South branch of that stream and town of Panguitch in Iron [written over Piute] County. There is also the pass to the S.West at the head of the Buckskin Mountain by which we approached the Valley. These passes are all high; and for a large portion of the year impracticable owing to the Snows, which fall here very deep in winter. The Valley sides are Sloping, excepting near to the Mountains, where they are generally precipitous, covered with scrubby cedar and pinion pine cut up by rough deep kanyons and gorges, running from the mts. to the Pah Rear. The immediate margins of the Streams, and the beds of the dry washes are narrow. Streams Small and subject to sudden floods. Most of them dry up in the summer season. Along the margin of the main stream and Some of the branches are narrow bottoms of fertile land, not in sufficient quantity to Sustain any large settlements, if there was even a certainty of the water during the dry season. The streams rise from small springs in the heads of the washes, close under the mountain the elevation not being much greater than the lower part of the valley and afford small spots of hay and meadow land with a climate much the same as Long Valley on the Virgen.

Camp No 7 on Pah Rear is about East from Kanarrohville [Kanarraville] in Iron County distant from St. George by our trail 141 miles. We reached here on Friday 24th Aug. On Saturday sent out two small exploring parties one to the S.S.W. down the Pah Rear, which returned early finding the kanyon impassable owing to deposites of Quick Sand from recent floods. One to the S.E. to some open glades in that direction returned in afternoon. No signs of Indians in the neighborhood nor of any having been here for sometime. Weather rainy much of the time.

On Sunday 26, we were joined by the detachment of the company under Second Lieut. Joseph Fish; who left Parowan Iron County on the 22nd with 18 men, marching by the wagon road up Little creek kanyon, Bear Valley and fort Sanford to Panquitch. Thence South 6 miles up the Seveir River. East 10 miles up Six mile kanyon and over a low dividede to East fork of the Seveir. Thence SE to Summit of the Rim of the basin and the N.W. pass previously mentioned to Pah Rear and East S.E. from thence 24 miles to camp no 7. E.S.E. from Parowan, and by his route distant from Parowan, 94 miles. Route practicable in summer for wagons.

Some of our animals being unfit for service, and deeming it best to disencumber ourselves as much as possible, we sent back Elijah Averett, Charles Pinney, George Isom, Albert Beebee, Frederick Rugg, and Hyrum Pollack having in charge 14 animals, Spare camp equipage etc. They Started from Camp about 2 P.M. at the same time we moved camp NE 7 miles to Coal Point on a branch of the Pah Rear. At about 4:30 p.m. and 5 miles S.W. from Camp No. 7 the returning party were waylaid by indians while crossing a deep gorge and passing up a Steep ledge of rocks. The foremost man Elijah Averett being dismounted, and leading two animals, was killed at the first fire and before he could make any resistance. The party were all dismounted and leading their animals up the steep acclivity at the time the attack was made. George Isom received an arrow wound in the left shoulder. Supposing there was a large party of the indians, They retreated to the opposite side of the gorge and took shelter in the Cedars, Three of them continuing their retreat to our camp where they arrived about 8 p.m. One from exhaustion was left secreted in the timber. The other one Hiram Pollack, after discharging his pistol at the Indians became Separated from his Comrades and remained concealed near the place until he saw the indians depart with the horses and the direction they had taken. On learning of this disaster we at once detailed 25 men to give pursuit and if possible punish the Indians. About 1 1/2 miles from Camp we met H Pollack returning from whom we learned the course the indians had gone and as we deemed it useless to search for the missing man in the night, we changed our course and instead of following out on the trail taken by the party we went down the Pah Rear with the design of intercepting the Indians in or Near the Pah Rear Kanyon. At 12 oclock we came upon their trail at the crossing of the Stream and 15 minutes later overtook them as they were ascending a point of the Mountain. We surrounded the place as quickly as possible but in the darkness the indians escaped to the mountain. We remained on the ground until daylight supposing we had some of them driven into a Small cave near where we overtook them but in the mroning found we had been mistaken adn that there were but two indians engaged in the matter and that they had escaped and were beyond successful pursuit as the Country was rough and impracticable for cavalry into which they had retreated. We recovered 12 of the animals and Equipage, 2 of them having escaped from the indians at the time of their attack in the afternoon. About 10 oclock A.M. of the 27 we recovered and buried the body of Averett and also recovered the other man, much exhausted from fatigue and exposure. Returned to camp 8 at Coal Point in the afternoon. At this place numerous veins of Stone coal crop out on the hill sides.

On Tuesday 28th resumed our March to N.E. up a Small branch of Pah Rear 10 miles thence up a Sharp, Steep, clay ridge barely wide enough at times to afford footing for our animals; one of a series of Such ridges, between deep almost perpendicular gullies worn in the mountain side by the storms of ages and the only one on the entire face of the mountain between Sandstone Point and Table Mountain that is at all practicable as a trail and this is very steep difficult and dangerous. One of our animals in attempting one of the ledges was overbalanced by his pack and rolled Some distance down the mountain side fortunately the side down which he fell was less Steep than the opposite one or he would have been inevitably dashed to pieces. With some difficulty he was recovered, not much injured, but made more circumspect by his experience. Arrived at the Summit of the divide the Scenery at once changes as if by magic, to a beautiful park green grassy meadows, groves of timber on Sloping hill sides, streams of clear cold mountain water shedding into a Small open Valley forming the Centre of the picture, very refreshing after the barrenness of the Pah Rear Side. While climbing the ridge and for Sometime after a terrific thunder and rain storm passed over us, the lightning Seemed to play around our heads and the thunder made the mountains shake. Sometimes seeming to almost lift us from the ground. Camped on the mountain, wet, rainy, night.

The waters of this park enter a narrow gorge some 6 miles from the Summit to E.N.E. and in about 5 miles further enter cottonwood creek in Potatoe Valley. Down this kanyon are traces of an old Indian trail. Having no guide and the gulch appearing very rough, we concluded best to turn to the left and reach the lower Country by passing around the heads of these washes and down some pass farther to the north. We found this way the roughest Country we had yet passed over. A succession of deep hollows with Steep rough rocky sides almost impracticable at first and worse as we proceeded until it was impossible to proceed in our course any farther. Turning back a short distance after Considerable Search we found a place where we could descend from the ridge which we had been following to the plain below. The descent was lengthy, difficult and dangerous over ledges of rocks with barely footing enough for our animals. One of our horses in descending a Steep ledge lost his footing and was precipated over a Cliff a distance of near fifty feet breaking his Shoulder and otherwise brusing him badly. We were obliged to kill him. Had he been unhurt it would have been impossible to have gotten him off alive from the ledge on which he lodged in his descent. After a laborious march of some 12 miles, camped on a clear Stream which we called Cottonwood. [We] experienced quite a heavy frost. Travelled down this Stream 2 T /s> miles to Birch Creek, a Stream Coming down from the Mountains to N.W. After junction with Cottonwood it flows 6 M. East through Potatoe Valley. Current, Sluggish for a Mountain Stream, banks Steep difficult crossing, Sometimes miry, to junction with Pine Creek, when it enters a narrow rocky gorge [with] perpendicular sides extending to [the] Colorado.

This Stream affords about as much water as one branch of Rio Virgen at Northop. The Valley along the Margin of the Stream susceptible of Cultivation and below the Junction of Cottonwood and Birch creeks to head of Sandstone gulch is about 1 mile in average width by 6 miles in length, level easy to irrigate, fertile and all facilities surrounding it for the support of a thriving settlement of one hundred and fifty families. Climate and elevation about the same as Long Valley on the Rio Virgen. Fuel and timber abundant, excellent range for cattle, hay accessible in valley at Timber Park, within distance of 10 to 12 miles. We have found wild potatoes growing from which the Valley takes its name. The Surrounding Country presents some of the same features as to form and size as the Pah-Rear basin being however a little lower, the mountains hig[h]er. Country to West and N west rougher. To North a pass N.E. and E rim of the basin and hig[h] mountains. Between, the valley and which extending from the foot of the rim of the basin and mountains to N.E. to the Colorado, is a flat Sandstone country with occasional ridges making [coming] down from the mountains. The whole of this country from the mountains to the River is cut up in all directions by these narrow deep perpendicular crevices, Some of which are hundreds of feet in depth and but a rod or two in width. We attempted to cross this plateau to the mountain to the E.N.E. by passing to the South and thence round a point visible in that direction hoping we might find a pass that way. Found it impracticable. Could find no place to get down on to Birch Creek below the head of the gorge. Camped on the ridge overlooking the breakers of the Stream. Ascending a point of rocks overlooking the country to East we found it useless to attempt to proceed farther in that direction. Returned to junction of Birch and Pine Creeks thence up Pine Creek N.W. Potatoe Vally is distant from St. George by our trail about 175 miles and about the latitude of Parowan.

We traveled up Pine Creek 12 miles, rough, rocky, kanyon. No land for farming; water may be conveyed across a low divide to Potatoe Valley. Old indian trail by this creek and pass to the N of Potatoe Valley over the rim to East Seveir. Not much used trail South of the Valley, Small, and had appearance of being from there to the river, only a Piede foot trail. Did not follow it to the river. Leaving the Stream to our right where it issues from a rocky gorge in a Short distance trail leads to left toward lower part of the divide. This being too much out of our course we commenced to ascend the rim of the basin by a Steep rough difficult kanyons, and side hills. Camped on mountain side at Quaking asp Springs. Continued our journey up the mountain on the following day and nooned on the Summit by a beautiful clear stream of water, excellent feed. Summit and sides of mountain covered with groves of Pine and Quaking asp. On Summit but little underbrush and of small growth. Mountain very high. Riding out to the Southern edge of the Mountain had an excellent view of Potatoe Valley lying below and S. W.; the route we had traveled and all the country in the basin below us and extending far beyond the breaks of the Colorado River. This view satisfied us entirely of the utter impracticability of any trail crossing the basin from Potatoe Valley, N.E. or S.E. either to the Mountains bordering it or to the river.

The Summit of the Ridge where we ascended was rough and after following it a Short distance we descent on the N.W. side to a lower table of the mountain and Deep lake. A beautiful clear sheet of water romantically situated at the foot of the mountain surrounded by groves of trees and grassy knolls, thence up a small valley over a low ridge and down a corresponding valley a short distance good travelling. Course N.N.E. 4 miles from lake. From this place we have a good view of Beaver Mountain to West 75 miles, Filmore Mountains a little farther to N.W., Salt Creek Mountains near Selina [Salina] N.W. and continuing on round East from there were other mountains at the head of Salt Creek and the dividing ridge between Seveir and Green Rivers with the Rim of the basin forming the divide between these Streams continuing on S.W. to where we Stood. The country inside of these boundaries is [written over was] comparatively low open and can be traversed in any direction little or no water excepting the main streams, Seveir and Otter Creek and the small streams and lakes on the high Mountain which we crossed. Ascending the Mountain again our course was N.E. 9 miles. Top of the mountain comparatively flat, numerous Small lakelets, Groves of Pine timber, growing less dense as we proceed. Surface of the country covered with black volcanic rock Sometimes in huge masses or scattered in fragments over the surface.

At noon on Sunday Oct. 2d we came suddenly out on to a high bold promontory of the S Eastern face of the mountain overlooking the country to N.E., E. and SE. and South, In some directions probably for a distance between one hundred and two hundred miles. Immediately under us and down the black volcanic precipice forming the South Eastern face of the Mountain, and more than a thousand feet below are three Small lakes surrounded by groves of timber beautifully Situated on A Small plateau of 1 or 2 miles extent on the mountain side that seems to have sunk down from the upper level of the mountain. These lakes may at one time have been the craters of now extinct volcanoes. Below these lakes again, down another precipice to the S.E. is the Colorado Plateau Stretching away as far as the Eye can see a naked barren plain of red and white Sandstone crossed in all directions by innumerable gorges similar to those mentioned before. Occasional high buttes rising above the general level, the country gradually rising up to the ridges marking the "breakers" or rocky bluffs of the larger streams. The Sun shining down on this vast red plain almost dazzled our eyes by the reflection as it was thrown back from the firey surface.

In the far distance a blue line marks the summits of high ranges of mountains just visible over the plain to the East and S.E. Nearer, to the east, are Pot-Se-Nip Mountains, visible to the S.E. [actually southwest] from Elk Mountains. Elk Mountains seen to N of East. S.E. 3 small isolated Mountains, name unknown, near the Colorado and forming the end of a spur of the mountain extending in that direction of lower elevation and through a gap in which are seen to S.E. and distant about 40 miles the breaks of a larger Stream coming in to the Colorado from the E.S.E. Supposed to be St. John's [San Juan] River.

To N of East and distant about 15 to 20 miles appear the breakers of two larger streams one coming from the N.E. Supposed to be Green River the other coming from ESE Supposed to be Grand River. A short distance below the junction of the Streams and directly facing us to the east the rocky gorge in which the river flows opens out to near 1/2 a mile in width for a length of two or three miles. Margin of stream covered with Cottonwood Timber. Gorge closes in at lower end of this little valley again and Stream flow's to the S West. To N.E. and between the mountain and Green River are the breaks of another Stream flowing through the same naked red Sandstone Country supposed to be Castle Creek.

To the N.N.E. is a very low gap 4 or 5 miles wide in this chain of the rim of thebasin affording a pass to the Colorado Plateau and some open country in the ValleyN.E. of us 8 or 10 miles but not penetrating the country any considerable distance.Through this gap a Small Stream flows which rises on the west side of the Mountainto the North of us and after flowing S. West turns to SE and East and flows out by thegap to the Colorado.

We found no trails leading into nor across this country. The indians from Pot-Se-Nup Mts. and S.E. from there when travelling to the North cross the Elk Mountainsand thence by the Gunnison trail [to] San Pete. Etc.

The Elevation of this mountain may be better guessed at by this; that; although the lakes below seemed to be almost under us and that one could easily throw a stone into the nearest one, from where we stood; a long range breech loading gun sighted for 500 yds held at the opposite margin threw [a ball] a little less than 1/2 way a cross, Striking the water at what seemed to be about 30 rods from the Shore.

Being Satisfied that the Mouth of Green River the point of our destination was in sight before us, and that we were as near to it as it was possible for us to get and that there were no trails leading in that direction, we unanimously agreed that we had carried out so far as practicable that portion of your instructions, and commenced our return at 3 P.M. of Sunday Sept 2d having reached a point in Latitude about [blank] Longitude about [blank] in a country perhaps never before penetrated by white men, Having traveled from St. George in a generally N.E. direction by our trail a distance of about 260 miles.

Returning we crossed the divide to the N.N.W. and descending the Mountain Side to N.W. Descent, Steep, rocky, over fallen timber Etc. From the base of the Mountain W.N.W about 20 miles up a gentle slope, barren, destitute of water shedding to E. through gap before mentioned. About 12 miles from After leaving the Mountain and within a distance of two miles we crossed four heavy indian trails leading [coming] from towards the head of the Seveir [leading] North to the old Gunnison trail at the head of Otter Creek. These trails do not seem to have been traveled very recently. Passed on this Slope in a number of places rude breast works of rock forming however no system of defence so far as we could discern but thrown up in a hasty manner and points widely separated from each other. On the Summit of the Bluff bordering Otter Creek at the head of a small kanyon leading down to Grassy Valley we found the most extensive and effective of these works defending the head of the kanyon, and in case of defeat affording some Shelter in retreating to the rocks and timber in rear.

In this kanyon we found where the indians who drove the cattle from Circleville camped for some time keeping the cattle in this kanyon, Some of them tied to the trees for Several days. Rocks still remain on which they dried their meat. The approach to them from Grass Valley up this small kanyon was easily defended, kanyon being narrow, Steep rocky and brushy. Five miles further S.E. Otter Creek in Grass Valley flowing S. Westerly is met by the East fork of the Seveir coming from the South after the junction the Streams turn to W.N.W and flow down a kanyon 12 miles through the range of mountains forming the divide between the East and South branches of the Seveir to the Southward and between the Seveir River and Grass Valley Etc. to Northward and [blank].

At the junction of these streams about 19 miles N.E. from Circleville at the upper end of the kanyon is an excellent site for a larger Settlement, good farming and grass land, extensive range for stock, fuel and timber abundant and convenient, climate and elevation about the same as Fort Sanford on the South Fork of Seveir and would command all the passes east from Circleville, Beaver Etc.

We arrived at Circleville on the 5th inst, found the wheat there good and ready to harvest. No one to take care of it. From thence we marched by the main road up the Seveir to Bear Valley down Little Creek Kanyon, Parowan, Cedar and Toquerville to St. George where I have the honor to report our arrival in safety with exception of casualties mentioned in this report.

With the exception of those indians who attacked and killed Elijah Averett we saw no hostile indians on our route. Nor did not come upon the trail of any large party. There was a small party of Piedes, judging by the signs, tracks etc. which we crossed, hunting elk in the mountains near the rim of the basin and Deep Lake but we did not see them.

By this reconisance we have learned that there are no trails East from St. George and between there and the mouth of Green River leading from the North to the Colorado River with the exception of the main trail known as the "Old Ute" trail by the head of the Seveir, Pah Rear Kanyon and Warm [Wahweap] Creek to the Ute Crossing of the Colorado. At Shirts Ranche on the Pah Rear a branch of the trail leads down the west side of the Pah Rear by a high Plateau at foot of Buckskin Mountain to Mouth of Pah Rear, Sometimes called "Jacob's Crossing." This trail having been traveled by Br Jacob Hamblin in some of his visits to Moquis [Hopi] Villages. This trail may be reached by crossing the Buckskin Mountain from Pipe Springs. The only other trail is the small foot trail up Potatoe Valley. The character of which we cannot speak advisedly of not having followed it to the river.

For further particulars of the route traveled course and distances, I beg leave to refer you to diagram of trail accompanying this report and forming part thereof.

I would also direct your attention to the Company muster roll for names of men and officers forming the command.

In conclusion I feel to acknowledge the blessings of the Almighty extended to us on our journey; much of the way being through an indian country rough Mountains and without trail or guide and to attribute our safety to his overruling Providence.

I would also express to the officers and men of the Command my appreciation of their hearty Co-operation in all the duties of the Campaign.

F B Woolley Adjt.

Yours Respectfully

James Andrus Capt. F B Woolley Adjt.

Muster Roll of Volunteer Cavalry Co, First Brigade, Iron Military District, Nauvoo Legion, Commanded by James Andrus, Mustered in Iron Military District, 16th Day of August, 1866. *

Five miles, South of Toquerville Aug. 18 1866.

Genl D. H. WellsDear Brother

Apreciably to the request of Prest. Young of 21st July, I have fitted out a reconnoitering expedition, the objects of which the enclosed order will show. I am just returning from Gould's Ranch where I have been to muster them into service to instruct and help them and have sent them on their way, a picked company and well fitted out. Should you on the Sanpete companies wish to communicate with them you will probably find them near the farther point of their destination about the 1st of September. They have one half or two thirds of the long range and most approved Guns and a brace of revolvers each. I do not know but that they are too few in number to send into that region of country, of this you are better able to judge than myself, but they will probably be two hundred miles from us at their farthest point of destination. The harvest and other pressing labors that are upon us in the South are reasons for sending so few. If you think they will be nearer Sanpete than to us when they turn back, it is submitted to you whether they should receive any support from Sanpete Dist. F. B. Woolley has gone as 1st Lieutenant and Prof. C. J. Thomas as Bugler, my oldest son Mahonri is also with them. Praying God &c go with them, and hoping that my acts may be approved in this matter

I remainYours truly

Erastus Snow

P.S. We are out in a heavy rain.

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