Emperor Don Pedro's Visit to Salt Lake City

Utah Historical Quarterly

Vol. 37, 1969, No. 3

Emperor Dom Pedro's Visit to Salt Lake City

BY DAVID L. WOOD

T HE REGULAR EVENING train from Ogden was met at the Utah Central depot in Salt Lake City by an unusually large crowd on Saturday,

Mr. Wood is a graduate student at the University of Utah. He is presently in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, completing the requirements for his Ph.D. in the field of Latin American history. April 22, 1876. The train arrived, according to observers, precisely at the scheduled hour (8:20 P.M.). This punctuality was not without warrant, for on this evening the normal compliment of cars had been augmented by the addition of a pullman palace car — the "Metropolitan."

The "eager expectants" caught only a fleeting glimpse of their distinguished visitor, who leaning on the arm of his chamberlain, descended to the platform, walked through the gathering, and entered a waiting carriage. He was "a tall, fine looking man, with grey hair and a beard, worn quite long, and he was dressed in a dark suit, and black cravat which completely hid his shirt. From under his coat a short gold watch chain was visible." He was "about fifty-one years of age [and] portly." He wore "a slouch hat, and [had] the appearance of a well-to-do granger."

Emperor Dom Pedro II of Brazil, "the first live Emperor who ever visited this country," had arrived in the United States just one week earlier (April 15) aboard the British liner Hevelius. His American visit had been prompted by Brazil's participation in the impending Philadelphia Exhibition. The United States was celebrating her centennial year and the Emperor wished to make this country the first stop on an extended two-year world tour, during which he intended, as he explained, to "see the chief centers of industry to learn something that may be of use to my country when I return."

In order that he might be free to travel when and where he pleased, His Majesty had informed the American foreign minister at Rio de Janeiro that he wished no official reception by our government; he desired to travel as a private citizen, to be free from all "pomp and ceremony." During his tour he hoped to see the "people in their everyday costume, to mix with them in their ordinary avocations," and to "observe their diverse customs and manners." In spite of this request, a delegation headed by Secretary of State Hamilton Fish had met the imperial entourage in New York harbor amid resounding salutes from the shore batteries and the strains of the Brazilian national hymn, played by the Marine Band.

After spending two event-filled days seeing the sights of New York City, Dom Pedro began his projected tour of the West. Since he wished to avoid the heat of the summer months, he did not delay his departure. He boarded the "Metropolitan" on the evening of Monday, April 17, and set out for San Francisco.

Dom Pedro was accompanied, on his westward journey, by L. P. de Conto Ferras; Visconde de Bom Retiro; Dr. Karl Henning; Dr. Arturo Teixeira de Macedo; Sr. Rafael Paiva; James J. O'Kelly; and two servants. Bom Retiro, one of the foremost Brazilian councilors of state, senator from Rio de Janeiro, former secretary of the interior, vice-president of the Brazilian National Exhibition at Philadelphia, and president of the Imperial Institute of Agriculture at Rio de Janeiro, served, on this occasion, as the Emperor's chamberlain. Dr. Henning acted as the Emperor's private secretary while continuing in his normal office as his instructor in Sanskrit. Dr. Macedo was assistant treasurer of the imperial household; Sr. Paiva was the Emperor's valet; James J. O'Kelly, a reporter for the New York Herald, had traveled with the imperial party since its departure from the Brazilian capital, upon special invitation from Dom Pedro; and two unnamed servants made up the remainder of the Emperor's traveling party. The Empress and the rest of the royal party remained in New York.

The route west lay through Cleveland, Chicago, Omaha, Fort Laramie, and Ogden, Utah. The rails of the transcontinental railroad, completed less than ten years before, were thus utilized.

As Dom Pedro made his way toward the Pacific, word of his journey preceded him by several days. In the capital of the territory of Utah, the Wednesday meeting of the Salt Lake City Council had just concluded its regular session, and the councilmen were retiring from the chambers when they received word that Mayor Feramorz Little had requested they remain for a brief "special meeting."

When the council once again convened, the Mayor informed those present that he had just received word of the westward journey of the Brazilian monarch. According to the best information available, the Emperor's train would pass through Ogden either Saturday or Sunday, April 22 or 23. Having disclosed this information, the Mayor called for opinions concerning any action the council felt would be appropriate for such an event.

A motion was made by Councilor Brigham Young, president of the Mormon church, to the effect that the Mayor be authorized by the council "to ascertain if it was the intention of Dom Pedro to visit this city on his way west and if so, he, the Mayor was authorized to tender him the freedom and hospitality of the city." This being agreed to, Alderman James Sharp made the motion that a committee of five be "appointed to act in conjunction with the Mayor in making arrangements for the reception and entertainment of the Emperor during his stay, in the event that he accepted the courtesy of the city." The council unanimously accepted this suggestion and the Mayor selected his committee. Alderman James Sharp and Henry Dinwoody, Councilors David O. Calder and John R. Winder, and Recorder John T. Caine were accordingly named for this assignment. Following this action the meeting adjourned.

That same evening the following telegram was sent in an attempt to intercept the Emperor's party at Omaha.

Salt Lake City, Utah April 19th, 1876

To the private Secretary of the Emperor of Brazil, care of the Agent of the Chicago and Northwest Railroad, Omaha.

Will the Emperor visit Salt Lake City on his way west? The municipal authoritories respectfully tender him and his suite the freedom and hospitality of the city. Please answer.

Feramorz Little, Mayor

Word quickly spread that the Brazilian monarch might visit Salt Lake City, and that same evening W. T. Harris, manager of the Salt Lake Theatre, also wired the Emperor at Omaha requesting the name of his private secretary so that arrangements could be made for placing a "theatrical box" at His Majesty's disposal.

The following day, June 20, Manager Harris received this reply.

Omaha, 20

Dom Pedro leaves here for the west at ten o'clock this morning. He travels in a special car attached to the regular train. He does his own talking and carries his own valise.

Such a response was at best frustrating to those civic leaders who were concerned with making preparations for receiving the royal visitor, if indeed he did decide to visit their city. Further, as this notice was published in the Deseret Evening News, the citizenry of Salt Lake and the surrounding area received an early warning of the type of visit that would shortly follow. Dom Pedro would not behave in the manner expected from an imperial head of state.

Uncertain, various segments of the community made halting preparations, while others, less directly involved, speculated as to the nature of this traveling monarch.

From some undisclosed source the theatre produced Brazilian flags to festoon the box the Emperor would hopefully occupy. The city's "theatrical orchestra" located the music to the Brazilian national hymn which they rehearsed, hoping thus to bid the Emperor welcome. The services of one of T. F. Malloy's finest teams, a "span of greys," attached to an "elegant barouche," 9 were secured as transportation for His Excellency. At Camp Douglas General John E. Smith, who suspected the Emperor might visit his post, made necessary preparations for a proper reception there.

Speculating about the imperial visit, the Deseret Evening News commented:

From eastern newspaper remarks concerning His Excellency it would appear that he is not over fond of public demonstrations being directed toward himself.

A monarch that "does his own talking and carries his own valise" must be possessed of considerable good sense. High dignataries generally act as if they were scarcely aware that they were human like their fellow creatures.

The question as to whether or not Dom Pedro would visit Salt Lake City remained unanswered until Friday, April 21. On that day, in rapid succession, telegraphic notices were received from Laramie, Wyoming, by several different agencies. These completely erased the uncertainty that had existed. Yes! The Emperor would visit the City of the Saints!

Mayor Little received a formal reply to his invitation of the previous Wednesday, which read

Laramie, Wyoming April 21

To the Mayor, Salt Lake:

Dom Pedro will go to Salt Lake before going to San Francisco. He thanks the municipal authorities for their kind invitation, but he wishes to maintain the private character in which he travels.

Arthur Macedo

Thus the character of Utah's first visit from royalty began to take form. The Emperor would come, but there would be no formal receptions, no speeches, no "pomp and ceremony," no "fuss or feathers." The Emperor would adhere strictly to his stated desire that he be completely relieved of "the idle parade of state receptions and civic addresses, banquets, balls and the whole fatiguing round of fashionably folly."

With the elimination of formalities, the Mayor and his committee found themselves with little to do in their official capacity. They are not even noted as being among the crowd that met the Emperor at the depot upon his arrival in the city.

Manager Harris at the theatre also received a notice requesting two boxes for the Emperor and his company for the Saturday evening performance.

Mr. John Sharp, superintendent of the Utah Central Railroad was notified that "Dom Pedro will pass over your road on Saturday afternoon, and remain till the Sunday afternoon train, when he will proceed to San Francisco."

In addition to these notices of confirmation, the Walker House received a telegram requesting a suite of "six rooms and accommodations for two servants" for Saturday night.

The unpretentious nature the visit from this imperial personality was assuming caused uneasiness among some members of the community, for a rumor soon began to circulate that a secret meeting would take place between Dom Pedro and President Brigham Young.

Rumors that Brigham Young and the Mormons were conspiring to gain control of the governmental development for the projected state of New Mexico and were planning to migrate thence were already rampant. The unorthodox nature in which Dom Pedro planned to visit the Mormon capital was thus linked with "some mysterious design of Brigham Young and the 'Mormons' in respect to some portion of the Brazilian empire, [which] is a large country and very thinly populated. It has room for an enterprising, industrious and moral people like the 'Mormons.' " These rumors, as it proved, were entirely unfounded. In truth President Young and the Emperor did not even meet.

As his train descended the canyons toward the city of Ogden, Utah, Dom Pedro stood on the rear platform of the "Metropolitan." He was "greatly struck by the help given by nature to the construction of the overland route." Passing through Devil's Gate in Weber Canyon, the Emperor suddenly turned to J. J. O'Kelly who stood beside him and said, "This country seems to have been made purposely by God for Railways. Who [else] could have cut out those canyons?"

Not long after this, the party arrived at the Ogden depot. The editor of the Salt Lake Daily Herald, E. L. Sloan, commented that the people of the Junction City "were not over-enthusiastic" over the Emperor's arrival. "The majority of those waiting about the depot were runners for the Salt Lake and Ogden Hotels, and they were less loud in their importunities than usual, all seeming to understand that Pedro wasn't fish for their nets." One of the factors that had kept the crowds away, Mr. Sloan speculated, was that the weather was "deuced cold."

Dom Pedro did not leave the train while in Ogden, but "sat at the window where he could be stared at by the boys and runners." Soon after the Emperor's arrival in Ogden, officials of the Utah Central Railroad were received by His Majesty aboard his palace car. These representatives offered to employ a special engine to pull the "Metropolitan" and its royal tenant to Salt Lake so that there would be less of a delay between schedules. Dom Pedro, however, "declined the proffer, and his car was attached to the regular evening train."

At 6:20 P.M. the start was made for Salt Lake. During the two-hour ride from Ogden to the capital, those who had been invited to ride with the Emperor in his private car reported that,

The Emperor greatly enjoyed the ride from Ogden to this city. He looked with pleasure at the lake, the grain fields, and lofty mountains along the road, and made numerous inquiries as to the territory and its people. He is an intelligent gentleman, social to a high degree, and converses freely on ordinary everyday topics, "especially those having bearing on the country through which he is now traveling and in conversation manifests a sharp, intelligent and inquiring mind."

Upon arriving in Salt Lake City, the Emperor was driven directly to the theatre. Manager Harris had delayed the program, refusing to let it begin until the Emperor had arrived and been properly received. Wishing to give the proper reception to such a distinguished visitor, Harris "stationed a subordinate at the theatre door to give him warning when the Emperor arrived." As Dom Pedro entered Mr. Harris removed his hat and bowed deeply. To this display of welcome the Emperor is reported to have responded, "in a very good natured, pleasant manner," by saying, "That will do, young man, that will do; put your hat on now and show me to my box." 22 This the manager did posthaste while attempting to hide his confusion at the Emperor's greeting.

A proscenium box "on the west side of the theater" had been "gaily decorated and embellished for the occasion." The box was

decorated by the Brazilian and American flags, caught up with a wreath of flowers. Two vases of flowers were on the tables before him [Dom Pedro], and the base of the box was decorated with red, white and blue strips, tastefully combined.

There appeared in the box with the Emperor, Doctors Henning and Macedo, one of these gentlemen sitting upon the Emperor's left . . . and the other just behind him.

The box opposite that of the Emperor "was occupied by some half dozen, blooming daughters of the prophet — fair haired, rosy cheeked girls." This group, especially a young man about twenty years of age who shared the girls' box and looked a great deal like the portraits of President Young that Dom Pedro had seen in Rio de Janeiro, attracted a great deal of the Emperor's attention.

Although "the house was not well filled," a fact that quite surprised O'Kelly, the newspaper reporter, the Emperor was "well received" by the audience upon his entry. Even after the orchestra had played the Brazilian national hymn, and the actors had begun their performance, "All eyes were on him more than upon the performers." There is a hint that some of the audience spent the evening gazing at the wrong man or at least wondering which of the three in the imperial box was indeed the "real live" emperor they had heard about. One observer stated that the Emperor's dress was so common that "no one would recognize him as an Emperor" and that "At the theatre . . . the audience selected the wrong man as Dom Pedro, and satisfied their curiosity by gazing at a gentleman of his suite on whom they fastened the imperial greatness — with their eyes and imaginations." This visual scrutiny was by no means a one-sided affair, for "Occasionally he [Dom Pedro] leveled his ivory-mounted opera glasses to different parts of the house."

The actors were not entirely neglected, however, for "His Majesty watched the performance pretty attentively, and frequently laughed at the comicalities of Burnett and conversed some with the gentlemen sitting with him."

The entertainment for the evening was provided by the humorist, Alfred Burnett, assisted by Miss Helen Nash and Mr. L. P. Williams. Burnett was described in a contemporary advertisement as being "America's greatest humorist." The New York Herald said of Burnett: "For thirty years [he] has been the best laughed at man in America. His delineations of character are wonderful." His "rapid transformation of face and figure are unequaled by any other living actor." Miss Nash was described as a "versatile and poetic reader," while Williams was rated as a "master of the guitar and harmonicon."

Although the Deseret Evening News lamented that "entertainment of a higher degree of merit" was not available so that the Emperor "could have seen how the theatre looks when well filled," Dom Pedro stayed through the entire performance, after which he was driven directly to the Walker House where he spent the first night away from his train since leaving New York.

The Walker House, constructed between Second and Third South on the west side of Main Street, was described in a newspaper advertisement of that period as being "The leading hotel of Utah." Centrally located, it afforded "the finest views of the surrounding mountain scenery and Great Salt Lake" and was "within a few minutes walk of the Tabernacle, museum, theatre, etc." Its "tables" were reputed to "equal those of San Francisco Houses!"

His Majesty set 7:30 A.M. as the time for breakfast. After arising at an early hour he quickly "made his toilet" and presented himself in the dining room of the hotel. However, there was a slight delay in serving the meal when the waiters discovered their guest did not care for fish. Dom Pedro was in good spirits, however, and did not seem to mind the delay.

About eight o'clock the Emperor, Bom Retiro, and O'Kelly left the hotel in Malloy's barouche. Their first stop was at the Warm Springs resort just north of the city where the trio "alighted and made an inspection of the hot and sulphurous water." Dom Pedro regarded this natural phenomena "as very wonderful," but found the water too hot to hold his hand in for long. "A cup was procured and the party all took a drink, but none of them regarded the beverage as delightful or even palatable." When the cup, which had been borrowed from "old Mrs. Jones" who lived nearby, was returned, she found "a gold dollar in it; which the Emperor had placed there to remunerate the old lady for the use of her dish."

The Temple Block was the party's next stop. The Emperor was guided through this historic square by its custodian, a "Brother" Thomas. His Majesty marveled at the "new 7 Tabernacle" and "seemed to be much pleased" with its great organ. He inquired if there would be any religious services held there during the day and was given a negative reply. One of the reasons for not holding services was the fact there was no way to heat the huge building. Dom Pedro was next shown the foundation of the temple that was under construction. This "was viewed with much interest." During the course of his tour and at the gate as he was leaving, the Emperor asked numerous questions "relative to the religious faith and practice of the Latter-day Saints, and from the nature of his interrogations and observations he seemed to have given the history of the church some attention." Before leaving the square, His Majesty "purchased a number of Church publications."

At Savage's Art Gallery, his next stop, the Emperor bought "a large quantity ... of photographic views of Utah scenery," before moving on to St. Mary Magdalene Church.

At St. Mary's "A gentleman of the congregation proffered the royal party his private pew which was upholstered, but the Emperor, thanking him declined and remained seated on one of the ordinary seats near the altar." Father Lawrence Scanlan officiated at the services that followed and was reported to have "preached a controversial sermon, which was in fact a reply to Apostle [Orson] Pratt's discourse in the Tabernacle at conference, on the 'Restoration of the Gospel of Christ.' ' It was noted that the Emperor "listened with a great deal of attention to the services" and that "when the contribution box was passed around," he and Bom Retiro both "dropped several gold coins into it." Near the close of the sermon, Father Scanlan took the opportunity to welcome the Emperor and his companions and "prayed to God to bless His Majesty with health and long life and the people of Brazil with continued peace and prosperity." The services lasted one and one-half hours.

When the services were over, Dom Pedro left quickly, moving so rapidly that he reached the door of the church before the people were aware of it. As he passed along the aisle, he bowed graciously to all who first showed him that courtesy.

From St. Mary's the carriage headed up Brigham Street toward Camp Douglas on the bench east of the city. Contrary to the expectations of that post's officers, His Excellency did not stop to be greeted or entertained by them, but instead drove "straightly through" saluting those officers who thus greeted him.

As the little party doubled back toward the city, they were confronted with the broad spectrum of the valley below. The fields and hills were brilliant with the verdure of spring. The Emperor seemed to be much pleased by the view.

The tour of Camp Douglas had been extremely brief because of Dom Pedro's desire to visit a Mormon religious service. He was driven directly to the meeting house of the Salt Lake Fourteenth Ward in time to attend the two o'clock meeting. As His Majesty entered the chapel, he was offered a seat on the stand among the ward officials, but declined the invitation, being "contented to sit among the people."

The meeting consisted of "Hymn 53," which was sung by a young people's choir, accompanied by a "Harmonium." This was followed by a prayer by Bishop Thomas Taylor. The Sacrament Service was followed by Apostle John Taylor, a member of the ward, who presented "an instructive discourse" on the "First Principles of the Gospel" to which the Emperor "listened with marked attention."

Dom Pedro remained at the meeting for about an hour but, "was obliged to leave" before Elder Taylor had concluded his discourse in order to be in time for the afternoon train which was scheduled to leave for San Francisco at 3:40 P.M. From the church the imperial visitor went "straightway to his car at the depot."

While waiting for his train's departure, Dom Pedro partook of light refreshment and visited briefly with several of the Catholic Sisters of Charity. This conversation consisted mainly of a discussion about the church in Brazil and the mission in Utah. At the conclusion of this visit, His Majesty is said to have bidden farewell to these Sisters with a donation of $1,000 for use by the Catholic Mission in Utah.

To the very last the people of Utah respected the Emperor's wish that he be allowed to circulate unhampered and virtually unfeted, for when his train finally left the depot there were only a "few people" present to wish him well on his continued westward journey.

One more spectacle that greatly interested Dom Pedro was the Great Salt Lake. At his request the train paused briefly during the return journey to Ogden. At the point where the rails passed nearest this American "Dead Sea," the Emperor was able to "experiment the density of the water" and thus satisfy his curiosity about another of Utah's wonders.

What now of the impressions caused by this "first" in Utah's history? Emperor Dom Pedro carried with him a lasting impression of the Mormons and their capital. He marveled at the "great work" that had been done by the Mormons in bringing the land under cultivation. Mormon teachings, on the other hand, did not impress him. Indeed the doctrines of the church seemed so unconvincing that he was unable to "believe that the people give credence to the revelations of Joe Smith and Brigham Young." He therefore concluded "I think it will not last."

The impressions left among the citizens of Utah were varied. At least one observer felt that the nature of the Emperor's visit had been an afront to the people. This opinion was expressed in the Ogden Junction in the following manner.

Had that gentleman really desired to travel over the continent in a quiet way, ... it occurs to us that he could have done so more effectually by traveling incognito. A private gentleman who does not wish to attract attention need not be accompanied by a retinue of retainers, servants and reporters, in a special palace car, telegraphing ahead at what time he will arrive and what theater he will attend and when.

Dom Pedro instead of wishing to avoid notice courts it ... in order to bring himself more prominently and in more favorable light before the people ... or to express contempt for us and our institutions. [We should be] . . . indignent that this man should come among us and openly insult the government and the persons of its officers.

Others, however, who more likely represented the opinion of the majority, thought the Emperor "left a favorable impression upon the minds of all with whom he came in contact." His manner and the nature of his visit were greatly admired and applauded. "Our own public men could learn well from Dom Pedro's example." 52 Thus the Emperor of Brazil came and went, and life in the Salt Lake Valley continued as it had before.

There is one last mention of Dom Pedro in Utah. On his return journey east across Utah Territory, a newspaper reported that

The Emperor, Dom Pedro, is detained here by a singular accident. A freight train is off the track half a mile west of Blue Creek.

A bull, standing on the railroad overturned the engine and eleven cars, which are completely wrecked.

Two tramps, who were riding free, were immediately killed and the fireman and brakeman were severely injured.

The imperial party endure the delay with philosophical equanimity and are making the best of what accommodations this wayside station affords.

All are well.

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