Overland to California in 1850: The Journal of Calvin Taylor

Utah Historical Quarterly

Vol. 38, 1970, No. 4

Overland to California in 1850: The Journal of Calvin Taylor

EDITED BY BURTON J. WILLIAMS

THIS JOURNAL details the overland crossing of Calvin Taylor and Charles Wesley Taylor, his nephew. In 1850 they left their native city of Cincinnati and joined the tens of thousands who headed westward to California in search of gold. That part of their journey extending from Cincinnati to Fort Laramie was chronicled by the editor in the Summer 1969, Nebraska History. The remaining portion appears here. There are several reasons for dividing the journal into two parts. In the first place the portion of the journal published here is more likely to appeal to the regional interests of those subscribing to the Utah Historical Quarterly. And secondly, the length of the transcribed journal precluded publication in one installment.

The history of the journal itself is not very clear. It is known, however, that even though Calvin Taylor wrote the journal it ended up in the possession of his nephew Charles Wesley Taylor. Neither Calvin or Charles had a college education which may seem surprising considering the excellent prose of the journal. This may simply be attributable to the fact that the "three R's" were more assiduously pursued in earlier courses of study. Calvin and Charles Taylor returned to Cincinnati and became lost to the historical record in the anonymity of a growing urban center. Virtually nothing is known of Calvin and only a little more about Charles. Apparently Charles dabbled in several business ventures with no great success. Included among his enterprising activities was his involvement in real estate activities. Unfortunately he sold property that was to become extremely valuable at a nominal cost, and bought property which did not prove profitable. But to return to the journal. It passed into the hands of one of Charles Taylor's sons, Walter Scott Taylor, and he in turn gave it to his son, the late John Colville Taylor. At this writing the journal is on permanent loan to the Cincinnati Historical Society.

The editor is indebted to Mrs. John Colville Taylor for much of the foregoing information. Also I would like to express my debt to her late husband, John Colville Taylor. He not only furnished his grandfather's journal, but also offered helpful suggestions.

And so here the record of still one more overland migrant takes its place among so many others. And the historical picture of the nation's most epic migration comes more sharply into focus and the record stands more nearly complete.

The Journal of Calvin Taylor

July 3rd. — Started at the usual time this morning, the character of the country having undergone an entire change, the road passing through broad defiles and between bold rocky cliffs crossing the dry beds of creeks and deep ravines. The Black Hills still in front of us appearing more lofty and distinct as we near them. At a distance of about ten miles we passed a bold gushing spring of water situated a few hundred yards from the right of the road. After having gone about one mile beyond, we ascertained that we could not obtain water for some distance so we unhitched our cattle and drove them back to drink besides filling our water vessels. The spring bursts with considerable force from the base of a hill making quite a rivulet in the hitherto dry bed of a creek. Having refreshed ourselves, we continued our journey and encamped in the evening in a pleasant valley near a small stream of water. Distance 15 miles.

July 4th. — The day opened clear and pleasant. We started at the usual time, our course lay up the valley of a small creek affording good running for a few miles, after which our course was over rocky ridges and through deep ravines full of sand and rocks which made heavy pulling for the cattle. About noon, we stopped to rest as usual and this day being a day dear to all truehearted Americans, our thoughts ran back to the land of our homes where we were wont to celebrate this ever memorable day according to our wishes and feelings, and though unfavorably situated to celebrate the occasion in the manner we would like. After partaking of our rather scanty meal under the shade of a tall pine, we loaded our guns and pistols and paraded up and down the road, with flying colors and martial music which consisted of a clarionet and a camp kettle which was used for a drum, playing the national airs of Hail Columbia and Yankee Doodle, strongly reminding one of the Militia Musters of by gone days. After firing a few rounds in honor of the day, we hitched up our teams and continued on our journey, the road still rough and passing through the dry beds of creeks and occasionally through running water. In the course of the afternoon, we came upon an elevated piece of ground from which we had a most splendid view. A few miles to the south of us arose the lofty peak of Laramie whose rugged sides partially clad with cedars and pines, their dark green foliage together with a deep blue haze of smoke which enshrouds the mountain giving it a gloomy yet majestic appearance, while to the north lay in the distance the rolling hills bordering the Platte whose waters are not visible to us here, and upon all sides as far as the vision can extend is presented a most beautiful sight such as one as cannot be described but should be seen to be realized. After crossing a broad valley in which we found a good spring and fine clear creek of water, we encamped for the night. Traveled 20 miles today.

July 5th. — Striking our tents we continued on our journey and leaving the valley we ascended the hills, the road being steep and stony made difficult pulling for our jaded oxen, but we soon gained the summit from which we had one of the finest and most extensive views we have yet had. The lofty Laramie is still on our left and the long dark line of the Black Hills in the distant horizon. Together with the rough and broken nature of the country around they make a place of great interest. Our road led along a high ridge from which numerous hollows and ravines ran off in a direction generally north to the Platte. To the south of us the country is much broken and cut up with deep ravines and broad valleys stretching away to the base of the Black Hills.

In a deep ravine we saw a cliff of red sandstone contrasting finely with the green hills around. The soil here is poor being sandy and dry, the grass short and crisped. The prickly pear and wild sage taking the place of almost everything else, the sage becoming larger and more abundant the farther we go. We have seen some beautiful wild flowers for several days past the names of which we do not know. Towards evening we descended into a broad valley and encamped upon the bank of a beautiful creek of clear running water. On our way into camp, we were overtaken in a shower of rain accompanied with fine hail which however soon ceased and we pitched our tents for the night. Distance today 20 miles.

July 6th. — Resumed our march as usual this morning. Met the Kendalls in camp. All well. The country through which we passed today was rough and broken. Our road led over hills, across valleys and ravines and presenting a scene of singular appearance. Immense hills and cliffs of red sandstone and rocks of various kinds mixed together in promiscuous heaps in the wildest confusion, the strata dipping in every possible direction, — from a horizontal to a perpendicular position, the soil presenting a sterile appearance and the grass short and crisped. The only exception to this is the artemisia or wild sage which flourishes the more as the soil grows poor. Passed some springs this afternoon. Encamped before sundown in a fine grove of cottonwood trees near a small creek with tolerable good grass. Distance today 20 miles.

July 7th. — The road today rather better, our course being upon high ground about midway between the Platte and the base of the Black Hills to the south of us. The country is quite sterile, dry and sandy but abounding in wild sage, prickly pear and cactus, together with a few stunted bushes etc. Saw some wild oats 3 or 4 feet high which makes excellent feed for the cattle. Met the Kendalls who had killed a fine large buffalo. Some of our men went in search of it and did not return until about 10 o'clock at night bringing into camp with them three or four hundred pounds of the meat of which we made our suppers, and being the first that the most of us had ever tasted it proved a rich treat, as we had not eaten any fresh meant since starting on our journey. Pursued our way up the river bottom until we came to the junction of Deer Creek with the Platte. Crossed the creek which is a beautiful stream of clear water and proceeding up the bottom about two miles, encamped for the night. Nine 'o' P. M. Made some twenty odd miles today.

July 8th. — Left our camp on Deer Creek and continued up the Platte valley. There is a ferry across the Platte near the junction of the creek where we met a large number of emigrants lying by in camp, some of whom had come up on the North side of the river. The country still presents the same sterile appearance, the strata in the hills to the south of us standing nearly on edge and extending a distance of some miles. In the morning the wind sprang up and blew with such violence all day that we could scarcely walk or see for dust which almost blinded us. Halted at noon but could get no grass for the cattle. Saw another buffalo this afternoon. Several men went in pursuit and wounded him badly but did not get him. Encamped before sundown on the river bottom. Travelled about 18 miles today.

July 9th. — Left our camp about 10 'o' clock in the morning and in the middle of the afternoon arrived at the Upper Platte ferry. A distance of 1293 miles from Fort Laramie and 779 from St. Joseph Missouri. Pitched our tents on the bank of the river and drove our cattle 4 or 5 miles out among the hills to graze, the grass in the bottoms being crisped and parched up affording no nourishment whatever to our stock. The river here is about 100 yards wide and 3 or 4 feet deep for about two thirds of the way across. When you approach the other shore it is from 12 to 15 feet in depth. The current is very rapid and strong, the water muddy and turbulent. The Black Hills on our left rising to the heighth of a thousand feet, bold and steep, their sides and tops covered with pines and cedars making a pleasant contrast to the bare and sandy plains at their base. The Kendalls still in our neighborhood. Distance 10 miles.

July 10th. — After an early breakfast this morning, commenced crossing the river. There is a good ferry established here consisting of three boats each of which will carry two ordinary wagons with their contents. A very great convenience to emigrants as the river is too swift and deep to ford, and doing away with the necessity of unloading and reloading wagons etc. Towards evening our cattle were driven into the river and swam over, having delayed in consequence of a strong wind which rendered it rather dangerous, emigrants having lost their cattle on such occasions. The mode of crossing is as follows: Upon each shore are planted heavy posts which are securely braced, to which is attached stout ropes suspended across the river and elevated a few feet above the surface. To these ropes are attached the boats by means of pullies and thrown in such a position that the force of the current alone carried them rapidly across. Having safely crossed we hitched up and went up the river a few miles above the ferry and encamped on the river bank. Found some good grass for the cattle. Caught some fish this evening and had a mess for supper and breakfast. The climate is extremely dry, there but little if any dew at night. The whole country for miles is completely over run with buffalo crickets and grasshoppers in myriads which not only destroy the vegetation but devour each other.

July 11th. — Resumed our march this morning. Left the Platte which inclines to the South. The country through which we passed today is the most desolate and barren of any that we have seen. No grass of any account and no water except that which is highly impregnated with alkali and deadly to animals. Our cattle had a hard days work through the deep sand and over rocks throughout the entire day without grass or water. Stopped at noon as usual to rest and take a cold lunch of hard bread and fat bacon which we washed down with cold coffee. The ground is much broken and difficult to travel. On our left rise the Black Hills while to the west and north are high and broken hills and ridges, almost entirely barren giving a gloomy and desolate appearance to the country which seems as though it had been swept with the bosom of destruction. Traveled on until 10 'o' clock at night and encamped, making twenty odd miles today.

July 12th. -— Struck our tents and traveled about 4 miles to grass and water where we remained in camp all the balance of the day. We dropped one of our wagons and made some repairs, besides dispensing with some unnecessary weight in order to facilitate our journey.

July 13th. — Resumed our march this morning, our road leading through deep sands which made heavy pulling. Passed a small creek in the forenoon of tolerable good water where we refreshed ourselves. Continued on until noon when we stopped about one hour as usual to rest and eat our scanty meal. Water highly impregnated with alkali and saleratus. Saw some large dry beds of ponds whose surfaces were completely encrusted with saleratus of considerable thickness and apparently quite pure. The country still barren with scarcely any vegetation except the wild sage. Passed Independence Rock with its thousands of names. It is an object of great interest completely isolated and standing in the valley of Sweet Water and upon its bank the road leading along its base and affording a fine opportunity to emigrants to examine it. Passed on and encamped about one mile above on the river bank. Traveled twenty miles today.

July 14th. — Finding the grass good at this place, we remained in camp all day to allow our cattle time to recruit having had but little grass for the last two weeks. Paid a visit to Independence Rock and carved my name and date among thousands of others. Ascended to the top from which I had a fine view of Sweet Water valley and the rugged and towering peaks upon each side of us. The rock is of an oval form of considerable extent covering several acres of ground and about two hundred feet in heighth. It is an immense mass of solid granite traversed by veins of quartz, entirely destitute of soil save in a few crevices where there is a slight accumulation of dirt supporting a scanty growth of wild currant bushes.

July 15. — Resuming our march, we passed on up the valley, fording the river a few miles above camp. Went to see the pass in the mountain known as the devils gate through which the river cuts its way. It is an immense chasm three hundred yards in length by thirty five in width through the solid granite. The sides or walls tower aloft to the height of four hundred feet upon each side. The bed of the stream is completely covered with immense masses of rock which have fallen from the heights above through which the river dashes its impetuous way. As the traveler stands on the edge of the rushing water and looking upward at the dizzy height which seems as if toppling over on him, he is filled with a strange feeling of awe and admiration at the grandeur and sublimity of the scene before him and how feeble and insignificant does man and all his boasted works appear when compared with the Almighty power which created and upheaved these mighty masses of solid rock. These are scenes in which man may learn his weakness and dependence upon that Being to whom he is indebted for life and all the blessings which surround him. Passed on through the chasm climbing over rocks and among bushes on the west side of the pass and came out in the valley beyond, up which we went a mile or two and waded the river about two feet deep. Coming into the road upon the south side of the stream. The valley at this point is eight or ten miles wide upon each side of which rise the rugged mountains of solid granite to the height of one and two thousand feet. On the south side, the range is densely timbered to the summit with pines and cedars. On the north, the mountains are broken and partially barren rising abruptly from the green sward of the valley terminating in a line of broken summits, the clefts in the rocks affording a scanty soil from which grow a few scattering pines. The grass here is pretty good. Continued on till near sundown and encamped upon the bank of the river. Traveled 10 miles today.

July 16th. — Continued our journey as usual this morning. As we approach the South Pass, the scenery becomes more grand and imposing. An immense chain of mountains bound us on either side whose broken and rugged peaks tower aloft and seemingly pierce the sky. Some of our company ascended one of the peaks today from which they caught a first view of the Wind River mountains at a distance of some seventy miles west, an immense range stretching away to the north, their snowy peaks glittering in the sunbeams like burnished silver and presenting a scene of great beauty and sublimity. Encamped about 6 'o' clock in the evening on the bank of Sweet Water. Distance 18 miles.

July 17th. — Our road this morning left the river inclining a little south. The river here leans to the North through a pass or canyon in the mountains, about 6 or 8 miles in extent, at which point the road again touches the river and crosses four times in a distance of a few miles. Left camp early in company with several others up the river with our guns intending to hunt along until we came up with the wagons where the road intersects the river, but met no game. Ascended one of the mountain peaks from which I first caught sight of the Wind River Mountains, distant 50 or 60 miles, looming up in bold relief against the sky their white tops glittering in the morning sun. Twas a beautiful sight, one which I had longed to behold. On either hand rise the lofty mountains of granite, whilst below me the beautiful Sweet Water wound its serpentine course along through the grassy bosom of the valley, and altogether forming a scene which to be realized in its fullest extent should be seen. Encamped before sundown on the bank of the river in view of the Wind River Mountains. Saw a buffalo on the south side of the river. Some of the ment went in pursuit but could not succeed in getting near him. Distance 18 miles.

July 18th. — Continued our course as usual, the road very sandy making hard work for the oxen. The country is still broken and mountainous, immense masses of rock piled on rock towering aloft with broken and craggy summits and nearly destitute of vegetation excepting a few pines and the never ending artemisia or wild sage, giving the mountains a gloomy yet imposing appearance. The road here diverges from the river for a distance of 16 miles before it again touches it, and there being no water on the way we filled our kegs and canteens at the river. Stopped at noon to allow our cattle to graze and rest dividing our little supply of water among them. Towards evening the country became more level, the mountains diminishing on either hand and diverging north and south. We have now high bluffs of great extent, level on top with here and there isolated hills or bluffs all maintaining the same general level. Towards sundown, our road led down a high bluff into a valley of Sweet Water where after fording we encamped for the night. Our cattle were driven down the valley about three miles to graze, the grass being eaten off near the camp. Charles and myself with some 4 or 5 others were appointed to stand guard over them. We shouldered our guns and blankets after supper and going down to where the cattle were grazing we built a large fire of the Bois de Vache and spreading our robes, we rolled ourselves in our blankets with our feet to the fire. We slept as comfortable as though we had been at home, except being disturbed occasionally by the distant howl of some hungry wolf. The night was beautiful and clear, the climate is extremely dry and very little if any dew and consequently very little danger of taking cold.

July 19th. — Started about 8 O'clock in the morning; nothing of interest transpired today. The character of the country has been the same as for a day or two past. This morning from a high bluff I had a fine view of Wind River Mountains whose snow capped summits glittered in the rays of the morning sun stretching away to an immense distance. One of the grandest sights I have ever seen. Encamped early in the evening near the entrance of a deep gorge or defile in the mountains through which flows the Sweet Water from the southwest. The road here leaves the river for some 14 miles before it again comes to it. Distance traveled today 14 miles.

July 20th. — Continued on as usual. Our road led today over the hills which are very high but of gentle ascent. Upon the tops of the hills the strata is in a vertical position, very rough and broken and extending for a long distance upon the ridges. The road passes over these rocky ridges which were not only hard upon the cattle but seemed to threaten the dislocation of our wagons already the worse for the wear. Towards noon we descended into a valley and encamped for the day upon a small stream, a tributary of Sweet Water. Drove our cattle across a ridge to the south of us about three miles to Sweet Water where we found excellent grass, the river passing for a number of miles through a canyon or narrow gorge of perpendicular cliffs does not admit of any travel along its banks. There are occasionally some narrow strips of bottom along the river which are covered with a luxuriant growth of grass and dense thickets of willows amongst which is seen the sweet wild rose in full bloom perfuming the air with its rich fragrance, and the ground thickly matted with the wild strawberry vine, whilst upon the cliffs at intervals were beautiful shady groves of the quaking asp in pleasant contrast with the otherwise barren country around.

July 21st.—Resumed our march this morning. Had a storm of wind and rain last night. Weather cold this morning, requiring our overcoats to keep us comfortable. We are now fairly in the South Pass, the Rocky Mountains in full view, their rugged peaks capped with glittering snow. Stopped at noon on the Sweet Water where we found a bank of snow and ice at the foot of a bluff and exposed to the rays of the sun which was quite a curiosity to us. Continued on till evening and encamped on the bank of Sweet Water where we have an excellent view of the mountains. Distance about 20 miles. We are now within a few miles of the summit of the pass which we are all eager to see.

July 22nd. — Left camp about 8 O'clock this morning. After traveling about 5 or 6 miles, we crossed the dividing ridge or Summit of the South Pass. The rise is so gradual that you can scarcely percieve it. The pass is about twenty miles in width and so easy is the ascent along the Sweet Water that you can hardly realize the great elevation to which you have attained, being 7,490 feet above the gulf of Mexico. Two miles more brought us to the Pacific Springs whose waters flow to the Pacific Ocean, the fountain head of the great Colorado of the west. The water is perfectly clear and cold as ice. There are several of these springs which rise in a low marshy flat covered with a thick sod of grass which yields at every step being a perfect quagmire and it is with great difficulty that the springs can be approached. Previous to reaching the springs, I climbed a mountain of about two thousand feet elevation to the south of the road from which I had a magnificent view of the gigantic Rocky Mountains whose lofty and rugged peaks capped with eternal snow glittered in the rays of the sun and seemingly pierced the sky. Beneath my feet gushed the crystal waters augmenting in volume, pursuing their winding way westward towards the setting sun, receiving tribute from every little rill and brook until lost in distance. While to the south and east, wagons seven in number having run off from us below Independence Rock in consequence of the difficulty existing between the Company and Captain Wright and of his noncompliance with his contract. Whilst we lay at Independence Rock, some of our men went in pursuit of them armed to the teeth with revolvers, bowie knives etc. determined to take them by force if necessary. They overtook them at this point, where they soon came to a reconciliation, the runaways agreeing to wait until the train came up in order to get more provisions. The pursuing party in the meantime changed their minds and concluded to go along with them. The balance of our company consisted of 35 men. Deeming our provisions and teams insufficient to take us through, we determined to proceed to Salt Lake City to recruit and obtain supplies. Accordingly, arranging matters the best as we could, the two parties separated from each other and bidding a rather formal farewell were soon lost to each others sight.

The country is still barren and sandy, the wild sage flourishing in abundance. Traveled until noon and halted at Big Sandy to graze the cattle and take some refreshment ourselves. About the middle of the afternoon we proceeded on our journey until near midnight when we halted and turned the cattle out to graze there being no water here. We all lay down to rest a few hours. Started before daylight of the 25th. Traveled on until about 10 'o' clock when we again came upon the Big Sandy. A distance of 17 miles from Camp of the 23rd. Drove our cattle up the river bottom to grass. Started about the middle of the afternoon from camp on Big Sandy. After travelling some 8 miles over a level country towards evening we reach Green River, the great Colorado of the West. A fine stream of water about 200 feet wide and five or six feet deep with a swift current and very clear and cool water abounding in fine fish of which we caught a few called Mountain Trout. We pitched our tents for the night on the bank of the River.

July 26th. — After breakfast this morning, we crossed the river in a ferry boat kept by some Mormons, the mode of crossing being similar to the ferry on Platte River. A strong rope is stretched across the river and fastened to strong posts to which the boat is attached by ropes and pullies, the force of the current carrying it rapidly across. We have dropped another wagon having now but five with seven men to each. Continued our course along the river bottom and encamped about six or seven miles below the ferry on the bank of the river. The margin of the river is fringed with cottonwood, willows, etc. while the islands are densely timbered and abounding in grass.

July 27th. — Started early this morning. We here left the river. Inclining to the west across the river bottom we ascended there some bluffs. Our route lay through the same character of country as that traveled over for several days past, the wild sage and some other shrubs, the prickly pear and a variety of flowers being the only vegetation. The timber confined to water courses and upon islands. The face of the country is a vast rolling plain with low ridges and isolated hills which are covered with boulder stone. The plains are gravelly and sandy, the river bottoms have tolerable good soil and produce fine grass. To the southwest of us are the Wahsatch Mountains whose tops are covered with snow. At the distance which we now see them, they lift their peaks in lofty majesty towards the sky piercing the clouds with their heavy heads and standing as mighty landmarks to the wayfaring traveler. After making about 18 miles, we encamped on the banks of the Black Fork, a tributary of Green River.

July 28th. — Left our encampment this morning. The country is still the same. Our course since leaving the South Pass being southwest generally over a level country with low hills and ridges presenting a desert appearance. Crossed in our course several streams, tributaries of Green River. In the afternoon we had rains with high wind but towards evening it cleared up and became pleasant. Our course is bringing us nearer every day to the Mountains which increase in magnitude as we approach them. The nights and mornings are disagreeably cool owing to the great elevation and the vicinity of the snowy peaks. Our morning and evening fires we find very comfortable. After traveling about 19 miles, we encamped upon the bank of a considerably [sic] stream convenient to good grass. Upon the banks of the stream is a scanty growth of willows, the dry branches of which together with sage bushes afford us material to make comfortable fires.

July 29th. — Weather cool this morning. After breakfast, four of our company started in advance for Salt Lake City, distance over one hundred miles, taking their blankets and provisions on their backs with the intention of making arrangements for exchanging our cattle for horses or mules in order to facilitate our journey through from that point. We were fully convinced that our present teams were not sufficient many of them being completely worked down and crippled together with the lateness of the season and the scarcity of grass. In the afternoon, we came to a broad and extensive valley in which were numerous streams of water. Had a storm of rain accompanied with hail and strong wind. We are still nearing the mountains. Passed Fort Bridger situated in the valley. We encamped towards evening a few miles beyond near a grove of cedars of which we made comfortable fires.

July 30th. — Resumed our journey as usual this morning. Our course for a few miles lay over the same descriptions of country which we had been traveling for many days. Long level ridges and wide plains. About noon we descended a long and steep bluff into a broad green valley with plenty of grass and solid oats and a clear swift stream of water. We stopped here to noon. In the afternoon our course lay up the valley, the hills upon either side having more or less timber, while in the valley are groves of willows. The universal sage still abounds. This is one of the finest valleys we have seen west of the mountains, filled with fine grass and beautiful wild flowers in the greatest profusion. Passed some springs strongly impregnated with copper and iron. Encamped on the summit of the ridge connecting the Bear and Wind River chain of Mountains.

July 31st. — The morning opened clear and cool owing to the great elevation of our camp which is about 8000 feet and affording an extensive view on every side. Within probably 15 miles of us arose the Majestic Wahsatch range whose snowy peaks penetrate the upper regions. Found some excellent springs of water and good grass near our camp. Our road today led over an interesting portion of country of a mountainous character, high hills and extensive ridges. Towards noon, we descended from the upland into a deep valley in which was a small creek where we stoped to noon near an excellent spring. Continuing our winding way among the hills, we descended into a fine valley of Bear River, a bold rushing stream of clear, cool water whose source is in neighboring Mountains. This is a beautiful valley of considerable extent with a good soil and luxuriant grass. On the banks of the river are tall cottonwood trees, some few pines and large groves of willows, bushes and shrubbery of various kinds. Along the hill sides are innumerable flowers of great variety and beauty among which I noticed the wild sun flower besides other kinds which were entirely new to me. Encamped about the middle of the afternoon convenient to wood and water.

August 1 st. — Started as usual this morning. Forded Bear River which was about hub deep. The bed of the stream is entirely covered with boulder stones and made it quite difficult for the oxen to get secure footing. The country broken and mountainous, the valleys affording excellent water and grass. Passed a number of fine springs along the road. Our road has been down hill all day but quite gradual, the formation of the hills being red and grey sandstone and immense masses of gravel firmly cemented together, the clay or loam being of a reddish nature. The soil in the valley appears to be good. Encamped before sundow 7 n in a grassy valley near a good spring of water.

August 2nd.—Our course today southwest. Traveled all day down a small stream of water which we crossed at least a dozen times. The same kind of country as for a few days past. The mountains rising to an immense height on each side, red and grey sandstone and gravel being the formation. Passed several fine springs. We had some of the roughest and most difficult road today that we have had during our journey. The crossings at the creek are steep and miry. Our road for the last two days has been through an extensive defile or pass in the mountains walled in by immense cliffs of rock. Saw a great variety of flowers, wild hops, service berries, wild currants, cherries etc. in the creek bottom, whilst the mountain sides and tops were partially covered with cedars and quaking asps. Towards evening, we reached the foot of the pass on Webers Fork of Bear River at which point there is a new route to Salt Lake City called the Golden Pass, 40 or 50 miles in extent, recently opened by the Mormons and upon which emigrants are charged toll for wagons, horses, cattle, etc. by the order of the proprietor Brigham Young, who is their chief or president. We took the old road to the right and passing down Webers Creek a few miles encamped for the night.

August 3rd. — Resumed our journey. Crossed Webers Creek two miles from Camp. Our course led up a small stream between the mountains. Halted at noon and after dinner commenced the assent of the mountains, the rise being gradual. In about three miles, we reached the summit which afforded a fine view. To the west arose the snow capped peaks of the Wahsatch mountains glittering in the sun and upon all sides the view was grand and impressive. High peaks and long ridges met the eye in all directions. The descent of the mountain was rather difficult, the road being steep and rocky in many places leading from one side of the ravine to the other. During the descent, one of our wagons upset in a ditch about 8 or 10 feet deep and lighting upon the cover with the wheels uppermost, throwing provisions and baggage into a heap besides injuring a man who was in the wagon at the time, the contents of the wagon covering him up in the ditch. He received some bruises about the head, not serious however. Having drawn out the wagon from the ditch and replaced the load, we reached the foot of the mountain before sundown and encamped on the bank of Kanyon Creek, a tributary of Salt Lake, a fine stream of water whose banks are lined with an almost impenetrable thicket of bushes, small trees, etc. among which was the Wild Cherry.

August 4th. — Left camp as usual and after traveling up Kanyon Creek a few miles, our course turned west up a large ravine between the mountains. The road was extremely rough and bad, being in places almost obstructed by immense quantities of boulder stones, some of which were as large as barrels and sorely tried our wagons and oxen. During the ascent another of our wagons upset and pitched the contents into a small rivulet without doing much damage however. Towards evening, we encamped in a cottonwood grove near some fine springs, within one mile of the summit of the pass and five miles from the base of the mountain. The sides of the mountains are covered with cottonwood, quaking asp, balsam, fir etc.

August 5th. — Soon after leaving camp, we reached the summit of the pass from which we had a distant view of Salt Lake valley and the snow capped mountains in the vicinity. Our road today very rough and steep descending rapidly and passing through narrow gorges in the mountains which rise thousands of feet upon either side and most admirably situated for defense, where a few resolute and determined men by a proper selection of position could effectually defend themselves against a host of enemies. Toward evening, we emerged from the mountain defiles into the broad and fertile valley of the Lake, which at this point is about 50 miles in width and walled in on both sides by the Utah and Wahsatch range of mountains, whose highest peaks are white with snow, while to the West lay extended the great natural curiosity, the Salt Lake, an object of great interest and from whose placid surface arose its lofty Mountain islands whose rugged and barren sides are beautifully reflected in the glassy bosom of its waters and the dim and misty outlines of the mountains beyond whose forms seemed to recede and fade away until lost in the distant horizon which bounds the great basin. The gentle and quiet Jordan pursuing its winding way through the green and luxuriant valley fed in its course by innumerable brooks and rills from the mountains whose snowy peaks afford a never failing supply and pouring its rich tribute of waters into those of the briny Lake, which still retains its saltiness notwithstanding the immense quantities of fresh water which flow into it from various quarters. The valley is dotted with farmhouses, barns, stables etc. with enclosures of large and extensive fields in which stand the ripening grain ready for the reapers sickle and here and there large quantities of the fresh cut grain standing in shocks while in other places, the reapers are busily engaged in cutting, binding and shocking it up. The harvest is abundant, yielding from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre of good wheat of which they have many varieties, among which are included two or three kinds that is sown in the spring and coming to maturity as soon as that sown in the fall. Of this kind is the Saos wheat which has a fine large and smooth head and not bearded. The stalks are large and tall. This wheat is usually sown in drills, 8 to 10 inches apart, but comes up as thick as that sown in the ordinary way. Besides they have the different kinds of State wheat, all of which come to great perfection and entirely free from rust etc. Corn does not thrive here so well as in the states owing probably to the dryness of the climate, but all the different garden vegetables come to great perfection, such as potatoes, tomatoes, beets, beans, peas, squashes, melons, etc., all of which are in great abundance. Encamped towards evening on a bluff or bench of the mountain, at whose base is situated the town, partially hid from our view by the bluff. Near our camp, which is two miles from the city, are several ditches which convey water from the mountains for irrigation and other purposes. The water is perfectly cool and clear and affording to the city a constant supply.

August 6th. — Left camp this forenoon and passed through the city and encamped on the bank of the river Jordan, two miles west of the city and turned our cattle out to grass, intending to remain here until arrangements were made for the further prosecution of our journey, the prospects for which, however, were rather discouraging. This was a joyful occasion to us notwithstanding our prospects for the future, as if afforded an opportunity of present relief and of obtaining the rest we all so much needed, worn down by our long and tedious journey through a wild and inhospitable region abounding in dangers and difficulties, through all of which a kind providence hath safely conducted us without the loss of one of our number, whilst hundreds of our fellow beings were cut down by the ruthless hand of death, far from their homes and kindred and of which we had abundant proof as we journeyed along. Seldom a day passed without seeing more or less along the road; the majority however were buried at camping grounds and places away from the road. I am fully convinced from what I have seen myself and from what I have heard from persons of veracity that the number up to this point, a distance of between 1100 and 1200 miles from Missouri, would be equal to one for every mile, which is certainly not far from the actual number, besides the large number of emigrants who returned from different points along the road in consequence of the severe sickness and some of whom we met at the junction of the north and south forks of the state, between three and four hundred miles from the frontier, panic stricken and making the best of their way towards home.

All these circumstances tended more or less to fill our minds with gloomy forebodings, but we nevertheless determined to proceed, considering it far more dangerous to return than to go forward, as we were daily approaching a more elevated region of country abounding in good water and a pure and healthy atmosphere.

The Great Salt Lake City is handsomely laid out — situated on the north side of the valley at the foot of a high bluff or bench of the Utah range of mountains, the ground falling gradually toward the river Jordan between one and two miles distant. The streets are of great breadth and cross each other at right angles, forming large squares which are cut at regular distances by streets of a smaller size, dividing the square into equal parts. The whole city is divided into wards of which were nineteen, over each of which a bishop presides. The city is not compactly built, being unlike all other cities in this respect. To each house is allowed one and a quarter acre of ground which is enclosed and sufficient to produce all the necessary garden vegetables in the greatest profusion, besides a considerable quantity of wheat and corn, quite adequate to the wants of each family. This arrangement of houses and lots gives to the city quite a pleasant and rural appearance, and might with propriety be called an agricultural city. The city is watered from the mountains by means of ditches which convey the water through every part of the city; each principal street having a stream upon each side, from which are sluice ways to conduct the water into the gardens for irrigation and other purposes whenever required.

The houses are built of adobes or sundried bricks which are much larger than the ordinary brick, being 12 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 21 inches thick. They are of a lead color and have the appearance at a distance of being painted. There are no bricks burned here owing to the great scarcity of wood, the adobes answering a very good purpose as the climate is mild and dry, requiring the eaves to be projected to protect the walls from rain, and make it a very comfortable dwelling. The houses are generally moderate sized and from one to one and a half storys high and built in modern style. There is a large public building called the State House now being finished. It is a square building two storys high. The first story is built of a reddish sandstone with sills and caps of the same material. The second story is built of adobes. It is altogether quite a respectable building and situated upon the corner of one of the principal streets. Besides there are several stores — a post and printing office, and mechanic shops of various kinds, and a large number of buildings now in process of erection. Opposite the state house is the church, an immense building of a temporary character designed only for present use, it being the intention of the Mormons to build a magnificent temple far surpassing in splendor and magnitude the far famed temple of Nauvoo, all of which no doubt they have the energy and ability to accomplish, judging from what they have already achieved during the short time which has elapsed since their arrival and settlement in this valley.

Apart from their peculiar notions and religious doctrines, the enterprize, perseverence and public spirit of these people is deserving of all praise and worth of emulation.

A large square of ground is reserved for the new temple. They intend to commence quarrying the stone this fall, preparatory to laying the foundation, the whole superstructure to be built entirely of marble from the neighboring mountains, of which there are inexhaustable quantities, handsome and durable.

During my stay here I attended church on Sunday afternoon, where was assembled a vast concourse of citizens and emigrants, and a preacher from Ohio addressed the audience, not a Mormon however as I understood. His discourse was singular, the subject of which was the disciples of Christ, the motives by which they were actuated in following him, and which he contended were of a mercenary character and not from a love of the doctrines which Christ taught, their only object being self aggrandisement, love of popularity, fame, etc. How far these views accorded with the feelings of the multitude, I know not, but it struck me as being strange how a man in this enlightened age could so construe the simple reading of the acts of the disciples, and of ascribing to them motives which every honest man would disdain without once reflecting that "with what judgment ye judge, shall ye be judged," and that in endeavoring to misrepresent the motives and defame the character of the worthy followers of Christ, charging them with infamy, deceit, and hypocrisy is himself a false pretender and places himself in a very unenviable position and one in which he is liable to have the fidelity and purity of his own motives called in question at least by all honest and liberal minded men.

Upon the close of the discourse, the services were concluded with prayer, reading of notices, and after which followed music by a splendid brass band who occupied a large platform (on the front of which were seated the Clergy), playing waltzes, marches etc. Immediately all was excitement, a confused hum of voices ran through the assembly, friends and acquaintances were interchanging salutes, all was hilarity, and an entire absence of that respectful solemnity common to most temples of worship, strongly reminded one of some holiday occasion when people are wont to collect to indulge in a social intercourse and judging from outward appearances, one would suppose the Mormons to be a happy people. It is clear however that theirs is a religion which addresses itself direction [sic] to the passions, congenial to the fallen nature of man, and devoid of the spirituality of the gospel. We find the Mormons to be a civil and quiet people, but still smarting under the recollection of the wrongs inflicted upon them by their persecutors for whom they indulge the most bitter hatreds, and cultivate a spirit of revenge, invoking curses upon them even to the fourth generation.

During our stay here we boarded at the house of a Mormon citizen, Wm. Wadsworth, a very intelligent and gentlemanly man, to whom we feel indebted for the kind and hospitable treatment we received while we remained at his house, and the valuable information and advice he gave us in reference to the routes, etc. for which we shall ever hold him in grateful remembrance.

August 14th.— Remained in this place up to this time. In the meantime it became evident to us all from the unsatisfactory manner in which Capt. Wright conducted himself, causing unnecessary delay, etc., that he was unwilling or unable to make the necessary arrangements for the further prosecution of our journey, and being asked repeatedly what he intended to do, and receiving no satisfaction, the company demanded of him an equal distribution of the property of the train, in consequence of his noncompliance with his contract, to which he very willingly acceeded, glad no doubt to get off so well. Accordingly we made an equal division as near as possible of the property, at the same time allowing Capt. Wright a very liberal share, notwithstanding his ungentlemanly conduct towards us, did not justly entitle him to anything. Though the company might in justice have stripped him of everything, to their honor be it said, they did not feel disposed to injure him in any way, which they could have done for the mean and niggardly treatment they received at his hands.

Our mess consisted of five; viz., P. T. Tierney, H. Hill, R. Whitby, Charles, and myself. Our portion was one wagon and three yoke of cattle, tent, cooking utensils, etc. Our wagon and cattle we sold and bought a light wagon and three good horses, besides selling our tools and as much of our personal property as we could possibly do without, which together with what little means we had with us and the rigid economy we were forced to practice, enabled us to make a new outfit. When after having reduced our baggage as much as possible and buying more provisions, we commenced our journey under more favorable auspices; taking the northern route around the lake the balance of our company going the south route or cut off having to cross a desert of near one hundred miles in extent without grass or water.

Our course lay along the base of the Utah Mountains which are of great elevation with occasional patches of snow upon their summits, they lay east of the lake and stretch away to the north. Between the mountains and lake is a broad valley, which is in a fine state of cultivation, the settlements extending a distance of about forty miles north of the city.

A few miles beyond the city we passed the War Sulphur Spring highly impregnated, but of very agreeable temperature. The water is conveyed through logs to a bathing establishment recently put up near the city. A few miles farther on are the Hot Sulphur Springs, the water of which is of a much higher temperature, sufficient to cook eggs, etc., and bursting from the base of the mountains in a large volume and making a bubling noise. The water is clear as crystal and emitting a strong sulphurous odor. The pebbles and earth over which the water runs are covered with a coloring matter resembling verdigris.

Continued our journey towards evening, making some 18 miles. We encamped near a fine stream of water with good grass and plenty of wood. After dark it commenced clouding up, the wind blew hard. About 9 o'clock it began to rain with thunder and lightning, and continued through the night. We were rather poorly prepared for rain having sold our tent at the city. We managed however, to pass the night tolerably comfortable, one laying in the wagon, the balance underneath, this being our first night out and as we expected to travel principally alone, we all agreed to stand guard alternately half the night each in order to guard against surprise by Indians who are said to be very thievish and treacherous on this route. There are a number of Indians in the vicinity of the lake who belong to the Utah tribe. They are quite friendly but disgustingly filthy in their habits, their principal food being fish and a very large species of crickets which they roast and prepare in different ways. They are a numerous and unlike tribe but generally friendly to the Whites, owing no doubt to the proximity of the Mormons of whom they stand in dread.

August 15th. — After breakfast resumed our journey up the valley through the settlements. The soil is excellent, producing an abundance of everything necessary for the sustenance of man. In the afternoon we reached Brownsville on Weber River. A fine and flourishing settlement about forty miles from Salt Lake City; continued on four miles beyond and crossing a large creek, we encamped for the night convenient to good grass and water. Distance today — 26 miles.

August 16th. — Resumed our journey, our route still up the valley in a north course, and along the base of the mountains which rise to an immense height, while on our left the valley stretches away for miles to the lake, the margins of which are white with salt. Towards noon we passed several hot springs which were impregnated with salt and sulphur and bursting from the foot of the mountains in large streams, crossed several fine creeks of pure water, passed a wigwam of Utah indians who all came running out to see us. They are a sprightly and talkative people, rather forward and troublesome and most accomplished beggars. They teased us for powder balls and caps which we very unceremoniously refused giving them, thinking it bad policy to lend a club to break our own heads. We gave them some tobacco and passed on. Towards sundown we crossed a fine creek and encamped in the bottom near the base of the mountain where we found excellent grass. Distance today — 25 miles.

August 17th. — This morning while preparing our breakfast we had three Indian visitors, who very composedly seated themselves opposite us intently watching our movements. They appeared to be middle-aged and very sedate and quiet. We offered them something to eat which they readily accepted. While they were eating we heard a distant yell and looking down the road saw an Indian riding at full speed toward us. He soon came up and dismounted. We invited him also to eat something. He was an active and sprightly Indian, very talkative, and withal rather meddlesome and forward, casting many a wishful look in the contents of our wagon and making himself rather too free for so short an acquaintance. He carried a rifle and rode a very wild and spirited pony, which appeared as restive as its rider. We suspected them of some mischief and kept an eye upon their movements. After breakfast we hitched up and took leave of our Indian guests, who lingered awhile and disappeared.

Towards noon passed several hot springs, some of which were impregnated with salt and others with sulphur. The ground around the springs is covered with saline encrustations which resembles very much a heavy frost. Arrived at Bear River about 6 o'clock, P.M. It is a fine stream of water over one hundred feet wide and three or four feet deep at the ford. Met a party of emigrants at the river who had lost nine mules during last night. Whether they had strayed or were stolen by the Indians they did not know, but most likely the latter. Commenced preparations for crossing, unloaded our wagon and cutting some willows we laid them across the top of the wagon bed and upon them we placed our baggage and provisions. Thus prepared, we drove in. The current quite strong, two of our company waded along side to assist in case of need. A footman with a pack on his back requested permission to hold on behind, which we granted him. We reached the opposite bank in safety, but owing to the steepness of the bank and the situation of our load elevated upon willow poles which had already begun to roll and slip the water being within a few inches of our provisions, we dare not attempt to drive up for fear of losing our entire load. Our wagon and horses remained in this position until the content of our wagon was carried on shore by those in the water. Which done, we drove out replaced our load and continued on about three miles to Mud Creek and encamped where we found good feed and water. Turned our horses out to feed, securing them with lariats to prevent them from straying. Made 23 miles today.

August 18th. — Left camp after breakfast. In about two miles we came to some fine springs from which we watered our horses and filled our water vessels, there being no water for a distance of 14 miles. Having now turned the northern point of the lake, our course inclined southwest among the mountains the passes through which were of gentle ascent and descent. In the evening, we came to the warm and cold springs. There are a number of them bursting from the foot of the mountain and uniting they form a considerable stream of water. Some of the water is moderately warm, some cool, and has a brackish taste. Filled our keg and canteens and continued on about three miles where we found good grass and encamped for the night. Distance today — 24 miles.

August 19th.—-Resumed our journey. Our road still among the mountains which are of moderate size and destitute of timbers. Passed several creeks of running water in the course of the day. Towards evening, we descended into a broad and extensive valley, the road through which was much cut up and extremely dusty. The whole valley as far as the eye can reach being densely covered with sage and grease wood bushes giving it a dull and gloomy appearance. Our general course still southwest. Towards evening we encamped on deep creek which here spreads into a marshy flat, and is finally absorbed by the sandy nature of the soil and disappears. Found good grass here and lariated our horses for the night. Distance today — 22 miles.

August 20th. — Continued our course across the valley which stretches away for miles towards the mountains which bound it on all sides. It presents a very sterile appearance and overrun with wild sage. There are occasionally some patches of grass dry and stunted. Stopped to noon after which we continued on and reached the foot of the mountain towards evening where we stopped to water our horses. Went on about 1 mile and encamped on the side of the mountain near an excellent spring of water and good grass. Near our camp was a grove of cedars and we procured large quantities of the dry wood which made us most comfortable fires during the night.

August 21st. — Made an early start this morning. Our road lay for several miles along the bench of the mountains, after which we descended into a valley and crossed several streams of water. The country through which we are now traveling is very broken and mountainous, some of the highest peaks having snow upon them. Whilst in the valley, the weather is hot and sultry. In the afternoon we crossed Cassius Creek, a fine clear stream with pebbly bottom, up which we traveled several miles and encamped convenient to water, wood and grass. Near the mountains the soil of the valley is poor and sterile except along water courses where there is generally an abundance of grass and other vegetation. Traveled 28 miles today.

August 22nd. — In a short time after leaving camp this morning, we reached the bench of a mountain up which our road led. The way was rough and steep. In about 5 miles we reached the junction of the old Fort Hall and Salt Lake Road. This is quite a picturesque place. On the old road near the junction are some high conical hills which are appropriately named, called Steeple Rock, between which the road passes of just sufficient width in one place to admit a wagon. Crossed the mountain into another extensive valley which we crossed and commenced the ascent of another mountain. The road lay along a small creek which heads in the mountain. Stopped at noon to rest and feed our horses. After reaching the summit we had one of the most extensive views of the country which is very broken and mountainous, presenting one of the most irregular scenes I ever beheld. On all sides as far as the eye could reach was presented a scene of the most utter desolation. Immense masses of rock riven and shattered, the fragments strewn in the wildest confusion around, while the sterile mountains lifted their tall heads in gloomy silence as if contemplating the scene. A thick haze or smoke pervaded the atmosphere which lent additional gloom to the scene. Everything around bore ample evidence of some mighty convulsion of nature, which doubtless occurred ages ago when this vast extent of country was upheaved by volcanic agency from the bowels of the great deep. 'Tis here that man may form some humble conception of the mighty forces of nature, when set in motion by that Almighty Power who created the universe and sustains those mighty globes and systems of worlds which move through illimitable space, each in its orbit with such perfection and harmony. Nothing can exceed the gloomy gradview of the scene. Far as the vision can extend, ruin and desolation meet the gaze. 'Tis here that nature reigns supreme and will remain unsubdued by man in all time to come, and never here will the eye of the traveler be greeted with the sight of the pleasant farm house, the stately barn, the broad and waving fields of ripening grain, nor his ears be saluted with the busy hum of human voices. No cities will be seen with their glittering domes and spires reflecting the brilliant rays of the Meridian sun, nor humble village quietly nestled in the cool shades of the forest, nor aught of man or his works. It is a country in which man can make no permanent residence and must forever remain so. And were it not for the allurements of the beautiful country beyond, would perhaps remain untrodden by the feet of civilized man.

The road today was very crooked, steep, and rough. Descended towards evening into the extensive valley of Goose Creek, the banks of the streams fringed with willows. Found the grass rather scarce. Crossed the creek and selected a place for camp. Distance — 20 miles.

August 23rd. — Left camp as usual. Our road lay along the valley of Goose Creek, the soil of which is rich and producing good grass. On the mountains are some scattering cedars, whilst the whole surface of the country is overrun with the wild sage which increases in size and quantity in proposition as the soil becomes more sterile. Passed some Utah Indians camped in the valley, some of whom came out to the road to trade with some emigrants who had stopped. Towards sundown we reached the end of the valley and encamped near the creek. We found the grass scarce here. We found some bunch grass upon the sides of the mountains which was so steep and rocky for our horses to climb, we put the lariats on them and staked them on the creek bank. After supper when the moon arose, some of our mess went up the side of the mountain with knives and cut a quantity of grass for the horses to last them during the night. Distance — 17 miles.

August 24th. — After breakfast we resumed our journey. Our road led through a canyon or pass in the mountains, which arose bold and precipitous on either side of us. Immense quantities of rock lay strewn around which appeared to be impregnated with iron ore, and the cliffs on each side are of the same character. Our road this forenoon was extremely rough and rocky, requiring very careful driving to prevent our wagon from being broken. The character of the country is broken and mountainous and quite sterile. We found it very difficult to obtain sufficient grass for our horses. In the afternoon we entered an extensive valley, and found a fine spring of water from which we refreshed ourselves, filled our water vessels, having been without water since morning. Continued down the valley 5 or 6 miles and encamped for the night. Found a few scattering bunches of grass. Owing to the lateness of the season and the immense emigration which has passed through here, we found the grass almost entirely consumed, in consequence of which our horses have fared rather bad for several days past for want of the necessary feed. Made about 18 miles today.

August 25th. — Our course today was still down the valley, the country presenting the same sterile appearance, water and grass scarce. Towards evening however, the grass became quite abundant and plenty. Our horses having been on short allowance for some days, we encamped before sundown in order that they might recruit themselves. 14 miles today.

August 26th. — Pursued our course down the valley, reached the end about 2 o'clock, P.M. Entered a canyon among the mountains, the road tolerably steep but smooth. Towards evening we descended into a small valley, and encamped at the head springs of Canyon Creek, a tributary of Humboldt River. A few miles to the south of us tower the Humboldt Mountains, whose highest peaks are partially covered with snow. The whole country thus far, is extremely broken and mountainous, there are valleys of some considerable extent, which are susceptible of cultivation. The country generally, however, may be termed a desert, the grass very scarce, having been eaten down by the vast multitude of horses, mules, and oxen which have passed through. The country is destitute of timber except upon some of the highest mountains, and is principally cedar. Upon the margins of the streams grown stunted cotton woods and willows, which together with the artemisia or wild sage, grease wood, etc. completes the vegetation. Distance today — 20 miles.

August 27th. — Continued our course down the valley of Canyon Creek. For a few miles after crossing a ridge we entered upon a more open and level country. To the south are the Humboldt Mountains, the highest range in this vicinity upon the most elevated peaks of which the snow rests in dazzling whiteness. Our road here passes the north end of the range whose general course is north and south. To the north and west of us, the dim and misty outlines of the mountains are scarcely perceptible, from the smoky nature of the atmosphere. We are now fairly within the circle of the great interior basin of California.

A vast desert of burning sands strewn with heaps of volcanic ruins as far as the vision can extend. There is abundant and satisfactory evidence that nature has underwent some terrible and mighty convulsion. A scene of more complete desolation could not well be imagined. The parched and stunted vegetation struggling for existence, the thirsty and cracked earth, drinking and absorbing the feeble streams which flow from the mountains, together with the universal and deathlike stillness which reigns around, naturally inspires the mind with a train of gloomy forebodings and enkindles a feeling of awe and admiration. But, the mighty forces which wrought this ruin and desolation around now lies dormant and pent up in the bowels of the earth, where it has slumbered for ages ready to leap forth at the command of the Almighty, with the accumulated power and energy of centuries, with a force that will shake earth to her center and spread ruin and desolation through the fair fabric of creation.

We are now upon the head waters of Humboldt River. Our course today was southwest. Continued down the valley and encamped for the night. Distance today — 20 miles.

August 28th. — Our course today was down the valley of Humboldt River. This is quite an extensive valley and abounding in excellent grass. Early in the season the valley was inundated with water, in consequence of which we have an unusual abundance of grass, a fortunate circumstance for us considering the vast emigration which had preceeded us, the advance guard of this immense army of emigrants having passed during the overflow and prior to the abundant growth of grass and carrying with them feed for their animals. Had it not have been for this, there would have been considerable suffering, as but little grass could be had upon the sandy plains and barren side of the mountains.

The weather here was extremely warm and sultry, the nights cool but without any dew. I found this portion of the country very different from what I had anticipated, from the idea of the term "Great Basin" which I supposed was a level and low section of country with but few highlands, although in reality it is a basin of vast extent and of great elevation, but broken and mountainous and traversed in all directions by innumerable ranges of mountains, some of which are of considerable elevation. It is an immense desert with few exceptions and were it not for the few streams of water which flow in it would be impassible for man and beast.

Pursued our course down the valley and encamped on the banks of the river convenient to grass and fuel. Made some twenty odd miles today.

August 29th. — Resumed our journey early this morning. No particular change in the appearance of the country, our course still lay down the river bottom. Our road diverged two or three times today from the river which entered canyons among the mountains. After crossing some low ridges, we came again into the valley. Continued on till near sundown and encamped near the river where we found an abundance of excellent grass for our horses who know how to appreciate it. We use great caution with our horses to prevent them from straying or getting stolen by Indians who infest this route and commit depredations of various kinds upon emigrants.

In selecting our camping place, we endeavored to find an open space convenient to grass and water. We stake out our horses at some distance before dark, reserving a sufficient space near the wagon for them to graze during the night. Get through cooking generally before dark in order that our fire may not be discovered, and securing our horses near us, each one taking his regular turn at standing guard half the night each. This we found to be a severe duty, worn down by the fatigues of a long days march through the burning sands, but to which we cheerfully submitted, considering that not only our safety but perhaps our lives depended upon our watchfulness and vigilance. We had not as yet been molested by them although we had traveled most of the way entirely alone, frequently camping miles from the vicinity of other emigrants. Nevertheless we were satisfied that the Indians were lurking near us, watching an opportunity to make a descent upon us, which they could easily have done as we were poorly prepared to resist an attact, having but one serviceable gun and a pistol which only went off occasionally. But of this, of course, the Indians knew nothing about, accordingly making a bold front thinking it our best policy, the Indians generally not willing to run the risk of being shot for the sake of plunder, but stealing unawares upon the emigrant in the dead hour of night when he least expects them and silently stealing away his horses, mules, and oxen. Several instances of the kind occurred near us on several occasions where large companies were thus robbed from want of proper vigilance and allowing too great scope for their stock. Traveled 20 miles today.

August 30th. — Continued our course down the valley. About 10 o'clock, A.M. we came to the junction of the southern road or cut off from Salt Lake, where we met a number of emigrants who came by the cut-off, some of whom left Salt Lake City ten days before we did. They report the desert over one hundred miles in extent without feed and water, part of the road west of the desert very rough and difficult. The distance to the junction is called 375 miles by this route, while the old trail or northern route is 350 miles and decidedly the best. The majority of emigrants who come by the southern road were induced to believe from reports circulated at the Lake, that it was the best route and that it shortened the distance very materially and supposing they could make the trip through to the mines in about 20 days laid in their supplies accordingly. When at this stage of their journey, the supposed time having already elapsed and the distance only half accomplished, many of them unfortunately found themselves nearly out of provisions, some having but a few days supply on hand and but little chance of obtaining any more as the majority of emigrants had barely sufficient to last them through and could not with safety dispose of any less they too might suffer. From the emigrants we learned that the Indians had been very troublesome on the cut-off route and that not long since a battle had been fought between the Indians and a party of emigrants in which six of the latter were killed, five men and one boy. One of the men was supposed to be 70 or 80 years from appearance, his head being perfectly white. The emigrants interred their remains and in searching around found the bodies of two Indians who no doubt were killed in the same affray. While on the northern route, the Indians confined their depredations to stealing horses and mules and offering no violence to persons as yet as far as we knew of. We had so far escaped molestation from them which was doubtless owing to the precautionary measures we had adopted, and our unceasing watchfulness and vigilance to which we owe our safety.

The river below the junction of the two roads enters a canyon through which the road lay for about 5 miles, when we again emerged into the valley and encamped on the river bank convenient to grass and fuel. Distance— 18 miles.

August 31st. — Nothing of particular interest transpired today. Judging that we were in the advance of the balance of our company, we inscribed our names and date on a large rock by the road side.

September 1st. — Resumed our journey as usual this morning. The road here diverged from the river and crossed a range of hills. Part of the way the road led through a canyon which was extremely rough and rocky. In the course of the forenoon we saw near the roadside a human skull, which from appearance we supposed to be that of a white man who had recently died or was killed perhaps by Indians. The skull looked fresh, some of the sinews were yet attached to the jaws. Some emigrants who overtook us stated that they saw a short distance behind, part of the body and lower extremities of a white man not yet decayed and to whom no doubt the skull belonged. This in all probability was one of the many footmen who travel alone and thus fall an easy prey to the treacherous Indians.

Stopped at noon near some springs where we rested and ate our dinner, after which we continued our course till near sundown and encamped on the river banks. Distance— 17 miles.

September 2nd. — Early this morning whilst we were preparing breakfast, some of our old company overtook us unexpectedly, they having come by the cut-off. We were all very glad to meet each other again and exchange friendly salutations and talk of past occurrences. There were five of them; namely, Brookins, Cole, Adams, Wiley, and Arthur. They had dropped their wagon after crossing the great desert and packed upon their horses which accounts for their overtaking us as we still retained our wagon. They report unfavorably of the cut off route, there being a great deal of suffering among emigrants, and the distance as great if not greater than the northern route. They left the balance of the company in a rather critical situation, their teams having failed and from the great scarcity of feed and water, it was feared that they might suffer considerably.

Crossed another range of hills this forenoon, after which our course lay down the river bottom in a west course. Passed the grave of a young man by the name of Bowles of Illinois who was shot about two weeks since in a fight between the emigrants and Indians which occurred about 10 miles to the right of the road near the mountains, his friends bringing and interring his remains at the roadside.

Continued on down the valley as usual, we encamped and found good fuel, grass and water for the night. Distance — 20 miles.

September 3rd. — Left camp as usual this morning, our course being still down the river. Crossed the point of a mountain. The road was very rough and sidling. We made but slow progress, after which our way lay across an extensive bottom. A perfect desert for a distance of 13 or 14 miles. The dust lay to the depth of several inches dry and fine as flour. The day was warm and sultry and the travel of so many teams along the road raised an immense cloud of dust which was almost suffocating. About 1 o'clock, P.M., we reached the river again where we found grass and stopped to noon. After dinner we continued our course down the valley which is of great extent. Hundreds of acres of the valley was covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats which stood as high as our heads. When not full grown it makes excellent feed for horses and cattle. Passed some large trains today, the road was crowded with wagons of every description, and horses, mules, and oxen in hundreds besides large numbers of packers, many of whom were traveling on foot with their packs on their own backs; in fact, the road was literally lined with emigrants so we had no lack of company. Towards evening we encamped near the river bank, where we found good grass. Distance — 24 miles.

September 4th. — Nothing particular occurred today. About noon we met a large train from Missouri consisting of 37 wagons drawn by oxen and laden with provisions principally bacon for the California market. We bought a few pounds of bacon and coffee for which we paid them 50¢ per pound, the majority of the emigrants being short of provisions.

We encamped near the river. Distance — 20 miles.

September 6th. — Left camp about 5 o'clock this morning to hunt grass, being obliged to keep our horses tied up. After going about iy 2 miles we came to good grass and water where we remained till near noon to allow our horses to recruit. We then took our dinners and started on our way. The road today has been very bad, the sand very deep, making very hard pulling; the whole country being in fact a perfect desert except along the river bottom. The weather is quite hot through the day. The nights are very cool, no dew of any consequence falls. Here we are approaching the sink of the river. The country still mountainous and barren — no wood to be seen yet. Kept on till near sundown when we encamped on the river bank. Made about 10 miles today.

September 7th. — Resumed our journey as usual. Our road soon left the river bottom and on the bench of the mountains the road in the forenoon was very sandy, being several [illegible] for our horses in ascending a slight rise it was with difficulty our horses could pull the wagon. About noon we turned in to dinner. Found poor food for the horses. After remaining about 1 1/2 hours we started again. The road lay along the river. About the middle of the afternoon we stopped to camp, finding excellent grass of which we cut near 300 pounds to last across the desert which is some 30 miles distant and very little grass to be had this side of the desert.

Last night was warm and sultry. During the night we had heavy thunder and lightning, with it smart showers of rain — the first we have had with one exception since leaving Salt Lake City. Made about 15 miles today.

September 8th. — Having laid in our supply of grass we left camp as usual. After going a few miles our road left the river. Ascending the bench of the mountain we found the road very deep with a fine dust which the wind lifted as we passed along whisting it aloft in circling eddies. In about 10 miles we reached the river again where we stopped to noon, the roads upon both sides of the river lined with emigrants. Continued down the river alternately in the bottom and on the bench of the mountains, the country still a most sterile appearance, broken and mountainous and destitute of timber, sage, and other bushes, together with willows being about the only thing seen. Camped near sundown on the river, finding good grass and water. We made about 15 miles today.

September 9th. — The road this forenoon led down the river bottom and was pretty good. Stopped about noon to rest after which we ascended the bench of the mountain along which we traveled until near sundown when we descended into the river bottom and encamped. Found the grass very scarce. The Kendalls camped on the opposite side of the river from us — all well. Made about 20 miles today.

September 10th. — Our road today has been a difficult one on the bench of the mountain, being very dusty and cut up. The whole country as far as the eye can reach presents one of the most dreary and desolate pictures my eyes ever rested upon. No grass except in the river bottom which is very scarce owing to the vast emigrations, some portions of which are completely swept of every blade. Along this strewed the remains of wagons, harness, clothing, etc., the persons abandoning their wagon and packing upon animals. The road is literally strewed with dead cattle, horses, and mules. Stopped to noon giving our horses some of the grass we had cut.

Pursued our journey along the bench of the mountain through the dust and sand and encamped on the river bottom making about 20 miles. Our horses for the last few days have nearly run down for the want of proper feed.

September 11th. — Resumed our journey ascending the bench of the mountain, the road still dusty and sandy, getting worse if possible. Every day grass getting thinner and more scarce making it very difficult to keep up our horses. Had it not been that we were lucky in cutting grass a few days before, our horses would have given out. Stopped at noon to rest our horses, giving them the last of the grass we had cut. From appearances we supposed we were approaching the meadows. Pursued our journey a few miles find it to be the case. Passed through some old camping grounds where emigrants have stopped to prepare for the passage of the desert.

Saw immense quantities of every variety of articles thrown away, horses, wagons, cooking utensils, boots, shoes, clothing, stoves, etc., etc., together with hundreds of dead cattle, horses and mules presenting somewhat the appearance of a battlefield. Kept on a few miles and encamped at the meadow of the bank of a running stream of water, intending to recruit our horses and cut grass for the desert which is about 15 miles distant (to the sink) . Found a number of emigrants here on the same business, quite a number of the digger tribe of Indians prowling around seeking opportunities to steal horses, mules, etc. Made about 17 or 18 miles.

September 12th.—-Remained in camp today to recruit ourselves and horses. Cut grass and prepared for crossing the desert which is 40 miles across, our camp, at present being about 15 miles from the sink of the river which is the commencement of the desert.

We cut about 150 pounds of a species of cane or reed which is very good and nutritious, the grass being very difficult to get growing in swampy places. In order to get to it you are compelled to wade sloughs, etc. besides standing in water to your knees in order to cut it. The cane we procured on dry ground in a short time. This is a general rendezvous for emigrants preparatory to crossing the desert.

Today a man arrived with a wagon load of flour from Carson River valley to sell to emigrants, besides a number of men with pack mules with flour, coffee, sugar, brines $1.25 for a pound, bacon from 500 to $1.00 per pound, other things in proportion. There is a general scarcity of provisions among emigrants, some being in a suffering condition, living for days upon [illegible] beef alone.

September 13th. — Resumed our journey as usual this morning, intending to go but a few miles toward the desert to secure good camping ground with grass and water. Some 4 or 5 miles from camp we found some excellent grass which we cut the day previous, the horses not liking it much. Cut and bundled some 200 pounds or more, in the meantime allowing the horses to graze. Proceeded on. The road lay through the bottom, being very dusty and sterile. No grass or water near, the horses becoming fatigued, one of them soon giving signs of giving out, we unhitched, putting the remaining one in its stead, kept on.

Coming in sight of a lake or sink of the river, this cheered us up, but upon reaching it we were greatly disappointed finding it strongly impregnated with saleratus and salt [alkali] and unfit for use. We were compelled to proceed and going a short distance, one of our best horses fell in his harness in the road from fatigue and thirst. We urged him on, however, a mile or two and encamped near sundown in company with some 5 or 6 wagons — emigrants from Iowa.

Our prospects for the present looking rather gloomy, we felt more or less depressed in spirit, being foiled as it were upon the very threshhold of the desert, but none the less determined, our intentions were to have retained our wagon to carry our water and grass across the desert, then to throw it away and pack our remaining baggage and provisions on the horses. But, the prospect for either arrangement being very slim, our thirst being so great, we were compelled to use the water which is muddy and very disagreeable to the taste, using it for cooking, etc.

The weather here is disagreeably warm through the day, the nights very cold, making it difficult to keep warm with all our clothing and blankets. Notwithstanding our difficulties, we are well and hearty and intend if our horses fail to shoulder our packs, to foot it the balance of the way, the distance being over 200 miles. Made almost 15 miles today.

September 14th. — Remained in camp today being unable to proceed on account of the condition of our horses. In part, made an arrangement with a man from Iowa to haul our baggage and provisions across the desert for which we gave him our wagon and harness, intending then to pack upon our horses, should they be in a proper condition. If not, we shall resort to some other means.

Emigrants in every possible condition are passing hourly, packing on horses, mules, oxen, and large numbers on foot with their packs on their backs. We are still forced to use the slough water for cooking, drinking, watering our horses, etc. We are not alone in this respect, hundreds of others being caught in the same predicament. It is a common and perhaps a true saying that "misery loves company". Be this as it may, it is no joking matter.

We are some 8 or 10 miles from the terminals of the sink which is the commencement of the desert. We expect to make an early start in the morning.

September 15th. — Started this morning between 3 and 4 o'clock. After traveling about 10 miles we came to the sink and laid by to breakfast and rested our horses and gave them feed. Crossed the slough of the river on the southside, filling our water vessels with water from the slough which was so highly impregnated with alkali that we could scarecely use it, but with us it was hobson's choice.

Started upon the desert about 9:00 A.M. The weather warm but not disagreeably so. Our course being south across the desert towards Carson's River. About 1:00 P.M., one of our horses gave out from exhaustion and we were reluctantly compelled to leave it to its fate. We learned afterwards that one of the men belonging to the train who was behind seeing the condition of the horse, cut its throat thus releasing it from its misery in proportion.

As we advanced, we saw the carcasses of horses, cattle, etc., strewed along the road. In fact the entire distance, 40 miles, literally lined with the dead bodies of animals from which an intolerable stink arises. There are hundreds, perhaps thousands, thus laying along the way, besides hundreds of wagons, some entire, others torn to pieces with an ennumerable quantity of articles of every description such as are required for an expedition of this kind. But, owing to the failure of teams in crossing, emigrants were compelled to abandon and resort to packing up the remaining animals or upon their own backs.

Continued on till about 3:00 P.M. to water and feed. After remaining two hours we pushed forward on our toilsome way. The road for the most part being dusty and sandy, made slavish work for the stock already suffering for want of proper feed and good water. But this was no time for delay. We pushed onward till after night which was cool and pleasant, it being a clear moonlit night.

As we passed along the wrecks increased upon our vision; horses, wagons, oxen lay scattered around on all sides as far as we could see; the clearness and stillness of the night interrupted only by the noise of the passing train as we slowly moved along. This valley of death was calculated to produce any but pleasurable sensations.

Continued our weary way through deep sand and dust until about 12:00 at night. We lay down to rest, making some 30 miles of the distance, giving the stock the remaining feed and water.

September 16th. — After enjoying a few hours sleep upon the ground, we resumed our journey just before the break of day. As the day dawned upon us presenting a most gloomy aspect, passed several graves one of which the wolves had been digging to get the corpse but owing to the sandy nature of the soil, they were not able to succeed.

We soon discovered a long strip of woods in the distance — a favorable sign of water. Soon met some men returning who had gone ahead to the river who told us we were near. We soon reached Carson's River in which ourselves and our horses quenched our thirst from pure running water. The river here is some 20 or 25 yards wide and 2 to 3 feet deep. The banks are fringed with willows and large cotton trees—an agreeable sight to us. All remained at the river until afternoon. Our prospects looked rather gloomy.

After revolving the matter over in our minds and having but two horses left, one of our mess made arrangements to get his baggage, etc., hauled it in a wagon. Having more baggage and fixtures than they could carry, we concluded to overhaul and throw away everything we could spare. Accordingly, we went to work and soon made things adjusted. Commenced packing, having bought more provisions, paying 200 per pound for flour, 75^ to $1.00 for bacon. There are quite a number of traders here from California with provisions of all kinds on which they made a handsome profit.

Having all things in readiness, we took up our line of march going up the river one or two miles and encamped for the night. Found a little grass and willows for our horses across the river.

September 17th. — Commenced our journey this morning under more favorable circumstances, having eaten an early breakfast and adjusted the packs on the horses, we started up the river on our course. As we were winding our way along the road, one of our horses being very hungry, plunged into a willow thicket and went over the bank into a slough, getting complete [illegible] and unable to rise from the weight of the packs. We flew to her relief and after removing the load, got her out without any difficulty and pursued our way until about 10:00. Stopped to feed but could get nothing but willows which our horses could not eat. Ate our dinner and went on.

A few miles up the river found some grass. Turned the horses to graze after which we continued on following the river, the main road leaving the river for 12 miles, over a strip of desert without grass or water the road along the river being a pack route and impracticable for wagons, sometimes passing along the bench of a hill affording a narrow footway. Part of the way the river was through a canyon then widened out to a valley, the road still sandy and heavy and rocky. The country still presents a most dreary aspect being very broken and mountainous and perfectly sterile excepting along the river along the banks of which grow large cottonwood and willow trees with bushes of various kinds, grass rushes, etc.

Pushed on up the river a few miles further and seeing some excellent grass across the river, it being about 4:00 and our horses very weary since crossing the desert, we concluded to cross and finding a [illegible] place, we turned in to the bottom. We found it extremely rocky which hurt our feet considerably in wading. However, we all got over without an accident. Selected a good place for camp, turned out the horses to graze. This afternoon two men with a pack mule fell in company with us, intending to travel with us the balance of the way.

September 18th. -— Arose early this morning having had a comfortable nights rest and the horses doing very well. After breakfast we arranged our packs, recrossed the river and pursued our course up the river bottom and after going a few miles, came to the junction of the main or wagon road where after a distance, it again strikes the river. Kept on up the river a few miles. The road crossing a high ridge or bench leaving the river a short time, descending upon the other side into an extensive bottom up which we went a mile or two. Came to a trading post where were a number of emigrants lying by to recruit their stock, others waiting for the balance of their company to come up. The river making a great head to the southeast for many miles, we again left the river, ascending a bench of the mountain and crossing a desert of ten miles, came again to the river which we crossed and stopped to noon turning our horses out to graze. Remained two or three hours.

Continued up the river, the country still extremely mountainous and broken, the mountains getting more heavy as we advance. This afternoon we caught sight of some distant peaks with snow which we took to be the Sierra Nevada or some of its parallel ranges, the general course being North and South.

Towards evening came to another trading post and turned into a bend of the river and encamped for the night where we found good grass and let the horses loose to graze, selecting our camping place under some large cottonwood trees and commenced operations for supper.

One of our company having killed a large duck, we fell to work and made a pot pie sticking in some pork and dough, making a fine mess which with bread and coffee we made a most comfortable meal which strongly reminded us of home which we sat and talked about sometime after which we returned to rest, making 23 or 24 miles today.

September 19th. — Resumed our journey as usual, our course still along the river bottom. After going some 14 miles we stopped to noon, remaining about 2/2 hours, we started again. In about 3 miles we reached a mountain bench or ridge, the road here leaving the river. We ascended the ridge which we found very rocky and dusty and fatiguing to ourselves and horses. The mountains growing more heavy and timber beginning to appear in abundance making quite a contrast to the bald and barren hills and mountains we have seen for some hundreds of miles, the distant peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains looming up in bold relief against the sky.

Pursued our course across the ridge a distance of 12 miles where we again struck the river after sundown. The grass at this point was completely eaten off so we were compelled to go on. This is a very broad and extensive valley [Carson]. After going some 4 miles up the bottom, we succeeded in finding good grass and water, it being a bright moonlight night and about 8:00 when we got in, encamped for the night after partaking of some coffee and bread. Made some 30 miles today.

September 20th. — Remained in camp later this morning in consequence of our hard drive yesterday in order to allow our horses to feed sufficiently. Started about 8:00. Our course lay up the valley. Again our general course today being southwest along the base of the mountains which rise on our right thousands of feet in elevation, quite steep and clad with pines from the base to the summit, presenting a most grand and beautiful sight. From the base burst a number of beautiful and transparent springs and streams of water, cool and refreshing, frequently crossing our road. Towards evening we passed a number of hot sulphur springs bursting from the base of the mountain. The water too hot to hold the hand in and from which arises a hot sulphurous smell. On our left lays extended the broad and extensive valley through which Carson River winds its serpentine course, the banks fringed with willow and the valley clothed with a luxuriant growth of grass looking like an immense field of ripened grain. Passed a number of trading posts today with coffee, sugar, flour, bacon, etc. to sell the emigrants. Passed on and encamped near the mouth of a canyon and a near route to Sacramento City, being a pack route which we intended taking in the morning. Made about 16 or 18 miles today.

September 21st. — After breakfast, getting everything in readiness, we commenced our journey leaving the Carson Valley. Entered the canyon which is narrow and steep. After going a short distance we commenced the ascent of the mountain which is very steep and rocky. The track is very narrow, a mere bridle path passing over loose stone, gravel, and sand along the steep sides of the mountain. It was with the greatest difficulty the horses could climb. We frequently had to stop to let them rest as well as ourselves.

As we ascended we had a fine view of Carson Valley stretching away for miles and the river pursuing its serpentine course quietly and the distant range of mountains, some of them capped with snow.

After gaining the summit's 2000 or 3000 feet elevation, we began to descend gradually and about noon we reached the base or valley beyond. About the middle of the forenoon it commenced raining moderately and continued on till after midnight when it ceased. Our road today has been through an immense pine forest, the most beautiful trees I ever beheld growing from 100 to 200 feet in height and from 4 to 6 feet in diameter, straight and tapering away to a mere point. In fact, the whole country is densely timbered; the valleys, the mountains from their bases to their summits which penetrate the clouds.

Pursued our way along the bench of the mountains until towards evening when we descended into a valley and encamped for the night. The weather was disagreeable, the night set in storm. We soon collected a fallen timber and made a good fire, it being pine and full of needles, it blazed brightly making us all quite comfortable. Cooked our supper, spread our bedding under a large spreading pine, which afforded some little shelter from the wind and rain. Tonight our prospects were rather gloomy from the fact of the lateness of the season and the liability of being overtaken in the snow, a few inches in depth of which would completely obliterate our road making it dangerous for us to go forward or back, added to which we had but 2 or 3 days provisions and made us feel anything but pleasant. However, we did not despair but lay down to rest waiting the result of morning. Made about 15 miles today.

September 22nd. — The morning appearing more favorable, we concluded to go on getting our early breakfast and we were soon on our way. After going 2 or 3 miles we crossed a stream of water and commenced the ascent of another mountain. We found it difficult but not so much as the one yesterday. We soon gained the summit from which we had a full view of the country. To the right of us lay a beautiful lake whose liquid surface lay becalmed in the bosom of the mountains and a beautiful green valley which lay between us and the lake made a scene of peculiar beauty. Descending, our road lay through a canyon which widened into a valley. For a short distance from the valley, we descended again into a canyon, rocky and steep, walled in on either hand with a rugged and precipitous side of the mountain which rose some thousand feet towering, towering towards the sky in lofty majesty, whose peaks covered with snow were sometimes hidden in the clouds.

Reaching the foot of the canyon and crossing a foaming mountain torrent which came leaping and rushing down with its spray lashing into a foam as white as snow, made a scene of surpassing beauty.

[illegible] and commenced the ascent of another mountain ridge of some thousand feet elevation. This we found difficult but not so steep as the first one. After gaining a level spot from which burst some springs, we took the wrong road which was only a camp road and led us to the top of the mountain — the highest we have yet climbed. During the ascent we had become heated and covered with perspiration. We soon felt the affects of the cold wind which chilled us through. We had to resort to our coats for protection against [illegible] We had one of the most extensive views we have yet had, on everyside of us arose ridge after ridge in aweful majesty as far as the eye could reach, while beyond us some hundreds of feet lay extended broad [illegible] of snow, little lakes and streams of water rushed themselves down the precipitious sides of the mountain formed a scene of beautiful and grand beyond description and one worth the pencil of a painter or the lyric of the poet.

Finding our mistake, we retraced our steps and getting onto the right road stopped to dinner, turned the horses loose to graze, after which we crossed a small stream and ascended another ridge and descended into a beautiful valley with fine grass and water. We encamped for the night near a trading post, several emigrants lying here in camp grazing their stock.Make 15 or 16 miles today.

September 24th. — Left camp early this morning, our course lay through a mountainous and broken country over mountain ridges and valleys of small extent densely covered with timber. Saw some gigantic pines from 6 to 8 feet in diameter towering aloft some 200 feet in height. Saw some cedars today of extraordinary size 5 to 6 feet in diameter, rising 150 or 175 feet high. Oaks made their appearance today for the first time, the largest about 18 inches in diameter.

The mountains today are more heavy, being now in the main range. Our road became more difficult owing to the great height. Winding along the sides and along the ridges down again to valley through canyons, there being no grass for a distance of 30 miles, we did not halt at noon as usual. The horses became quite fatigued but we urged them on.

In the afternoon we ascended one of the highest mountains we had yet been on. After gaining the top, our road lay along the ridge. After reaching the highest peak we had one of the most grand and romantic views we ever saw. We had an extensive view upon all sides. To the west as far as the eye could reach rose ridge after ridge until mountain and sky blended together in the distance. We almost fancied we could see the coast range beyond Sacramento Valley, making one of the grandest scenes my eyes ever rested upon. The whole country as far as we could see was densely timbered with gigantic pines, cedars, etc., their rich green foliage contrasted finely with the naked and barren region of the country we had passed over.

Descended the mountain, again the road steep and rocky, into a small valley or canyon crossing a fine stream of water, said to be the south branch of the American, where we found a trading post and ascertained where we could find grass. During the afternoon the weather was cloudy and towards evening it commenced raining quitehard.

Pushed on until dark and coming to a large stream of water it being deep and rocky. It getting dark we concluded to turn back a short distance and camp, groped our way through the rain and darkness. We unloaded our packs under a large pine turning our horses loose to look out for themselves whilst we commenced operations for kindling a fire. The rain falling rapidly and everything being wet, we found it difficult. We used up all our matches without succeeding. We used powder, wetting some powder and saturating a rag, putting some in the gun without wadding, fire the contents into the rag which took fire and feeding it with dry bark we succeeded in making a fire, having no tent or shelter from the rain except what little the trees afforded. There being plenty of wood at hand, we piled on large quantities, the rain still pouring down on us while one side was drying the other was getting wet, thus we kept alternately shifting and changing during the whole night, being wet and hungry having eaten nothing since breakfast. We commenced getting supper making some bread and frying some meal, which we heartily enjoyed, the rain still pitting [illegible].

The rain continued without intermission all night and becoming completely exhausted, we wrapped our blankets around us and set down upon our packs against the tree, indulged ourselves in nodding and getting an occasional snatch of sleep and awake wet and chilly. Thus we passed the night and as far as I am concerned it was one of the most disagreeable nights I ever spent. At length day dawned but still the rain continued which, notwithstanding was a great relief. Went to the river and found it past fording. Moved, camped about 1 mile to good grass and remained for the day of September 25th. About the middle of the forenoon the rains ceased and it cleared up affording us an opportunity of drying our clothes and bedding. Made 30 miles today. (September 24th)

September 26th. — After a comfortable nights rest we started again on our journey after breakfast, the horses getting pretty good feed during the day and night. This morning the creek had fallen so that we were able to ford and continued our journey.

After going a few miles, one of our horses showed signs of failing. It being some 16 miles to grass, we urged her along. Passed several trading posts and ranches today along the road. Kept on till noon, our horse failing rapidly, we took off our packs and having some grass along with us, we fed it out to the horse resting ourselves in the meantime. Resumed our journey again. It was with the greatest difficult we could get our horse along. We lightened up her load, carrying some things ourselves and walking slowly allowing her to rest frequently. Thus we kept on until late in the afternoon when our horse stopped in the road refusing to proceed, but we urged her on using every means in our power to get her along to grass and water about two miles distant. Still lightening her load, we succeeded in getting her into camp where we found pretty good grass and turned them loose to graze, selecting a good place well sheltered by trees for our bed and rolling together a large heap of pine logs, we had a comfortable fire. After cooking our supper we turned in for the night under the branches of a wide spread pine, soon forgetting the fatigues of the day. Made about 16 miles today.

September 27th. — Arose early this morning, having enjoyed a good nights rest. After breakfast prepared for our journey and finding our horses unable to proceed, we very reluctantly left her, leaving her, however, near grass and water where she would eventually recruit if left alone.

Having now but one horse left, we were compelled to shoulder our packs, the only resource left us. After getting things arranged, started under the new arrangement which, though not a pleasant one, we put up with the best at all possible.

Having but about 22 miles to make to get into Georgetown which under present circumstances, we expect will be the end of our journey, met a large number of miners the last two days going out into locations. The reports are rather unfavorable at present, but being new comers ourselves, we cannot place much credit in the different stories told us. We are resolved to see for ourselves. Stopped awhile to noon and then proceeded on. In the afternoon we had a splendid view of the Sacramento Valley away to the north and south with the coast range of mountains to the west. This was a welcome sight to us, weary and worn as we were from the long and tedious journey over deserts and dreary wastes. We felt encouraged at the near termination of our journey.

Reaching a trading post towards evening, we encamped for the night, there being no grass here, we cut down some small oaks for our horses to browse upon, cooking our scanty meal. Made preparations for the night. Made about 15 miles today.

September 28th. — Awoke this morning after a refreshing nights rest, after the fatigues of the day. Made preparations for our journey at once, being entirely out of provisions and money, felt rather squamish about the stomach but there was no use for repining at our lot, so shouldering our packs we made a bold push forward having 10 or 12 miles to make, our greatest solicitude being for our poor jaded yet faithful horse who had rendered us such essential service, there being no grass whatever along the way. The only thing to be had was barley which under present circumstances we were unable to procure at least until we reached Georgetown.

Continued on our weary way, the road descending rapidly towards the valley which was in sight occasionally, the spot or foot hills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which now lay to the east of us, lifting their snowy heads to the clouds so that, notwithstanding our present situation which was an unpleasant one but far better than has fallen to the lot of many others, we still had reason to congratulate ourselves upon our good fortune in having escaped the many dangers consequent upon so hazardous a journey through burning sands and desert wastes, in many places entirely destitute of grass or water with the bald and desolate mountains lifting their gloomy heads in everlasting silence, towards the sky very naturally tended to depress the spirits as we plodded our weary way, choked with thirst and suffocated with dust.

Our journey had been a tedious one, many thousands who started full of hope and bright anticipation of the future found an untimely grave in a strange land among strangers and beyond the search of kind friends and relatives. A father perhaps sinking in the cold embrace of death leaving behind a helpless and dependent family of children to be cast upon the cold charity of the world; or the young man in the prime of life and full of bright anticipation, ambitious to regain a name in the world has been suddenly cut down by the ruthless hand of death, who in no respect of persons, age, or sex, or conditions of life.

The road is a vast channel being literally lined for hundreds of miles with not only the bodies of men, but of vast multitudes of horses, oxen, and mules, with innumerable wrecks of wagons, baggage, clothing, etc., property to the amount of hundreds of thousands of dollars totally lost to the use of man, an immense sacrifice to avarice and the love of gold. Scenes calculated to make the eager multitude pause and think and to reflect that there are other subjects which should engage their attention besides the mere getting of gold, but so it is with man who rushes heedlessly along in the uncertain race, risk, life, limb and health in the pursuit of that which can give no solid or real enjoyment.

About noon we arrived in Georgetown, a new place, a depot for the mining district around. Selected a place for camp and went around to look at the operations of the mines, there being quite a number adjacent to the town along the ravines and gullies.

September 29th. — Having sold our remaining horse and buying and cooking some provisions preparatory to the completion of our journey to Sacramento City. Although in the mining district, our inclinations led us to the city being the point for which wc started and the prospect of meeting with friends and above all to hear from the dear relatives and kind friends, not having heard a word from them for so long and dreary a period. Having heard since getting into the settlements that the dreaded Cholera had again swept over the country, carrying multitudes to their graves, our minds were filled with anxious solicitude concerning those whom we had left behind, whom perhaps we were never to meet again in the world. Our feelings may be imagined, but cannot be described.

Having things in readiness, about noon we shouldered our blankets, some clothes and provisions. We started on our journey in the meantime, leaving some of our baggage in a store which we could not take with us, intending to come or send for it in a few days.

Towards evening passed through a pleasant little village or mining town called Greenwood Valley and stopped for the night where we very unexpectedly fell in with some old acquaintances from Cincinnati — a neighbor, Joseph Cassell, M. H. Offutt, and a Mr. Abrams of Cincinnati; and a Mr. Jason Ludlow of Lawrenceburg, Indiana, with whom I became acquainted with some 10 or 11 years since in Mississippi and made himself beknown to me. This was cheering to find old friends on the distant rearions and inspired us with new.energy and hope.

September 30th. — Today being Sunday, we remained until noon with our friends, talking of home and past occurrences, when we again set out on our journey. Continued on till dark and stopped for the night near a town or trading post along the road which is lined with them down to the city.

This concludes the Taylor journal. They did not "strike it rich." According to John Colville Taylor, the grandson of Charles Wesley Taylor, they found very little gold, only enough to pay their passage back by boat. And thus the Taylors returned to Cincinnati with a wealth of experience but no gold.

For full citations and images please view this article on a desktop.