Architecture and Fashion
INTRODUCTION LITERATURE REVIEW
INTRODUCTION
WHAT IS FOLDING?
Architecture Permanent
A&F
Shelter Rigid and hard Identity Creative Process Larger scale
Fashion Changes with
FOLDING APPROACHES BY FASHION DESIGNERS AND ARCHITECTS
seasons
Soft Frivolous
CASE STUDIES • NEO SOLAR POWER CORP., TAIWAN • DIOR SHOWROOM, MIAMI CONCLUSION
ARCHITECTURAL QUESTION: How can fashion principles of pleating, folding and layering be used to create a functional and inspiring result for the occupants of a building? OBJECTIVES: 1. To study the relationship between architecture and fashion 2. To study the folding techniques 3. To study the various examples of pleating and folding techniques that have been applied on building façades 4. To Understand the materials and construction techniques involved in the folding façade design
DISSERTATION GUIDE: AR. SANDEEP SHARMA
UTTARA RAJAWAT 13640 1
1. WHAT IS FOLDING? Basic Accordion : Open & Closed*
Knife and Boxed Pleats : Open & Closed*
Basic Types: Accordion Fold*:
Knife Fold*:
Examples showing how the basic pairing of valley fold and mountain fold can be developed*: According to Gilles Deleuze: “ A continuous labyrinth is not a line dissolving into independent points, as flowing sand might dissolve into grains, but resembles a sheet of paper divided into infinite folds or separated into bending movements, each one determined by the consistent or conspiring surrounding… A fold is always folded within a fold, like a cavern in a cavern. The unit of matter, the smallest element of the labyrinth, is the fold, not the point which is never a part, but a simple extremity of the line.” +
*Complete Pleats: Pleating Techniques for Fashion, Architecture and Design by Paul Jackson + Deleuze, Gilles. “The Fold-Leibniz and the Baroque: The Pleats of Matter.” 2
2. FOLDING APPROACHES
Eli-Edythe Broad Art Museum, Zaha Hadid Architets, Michigan State Univ, USA +
Designed by Gily Seder, Dept. of Fashion Design, Shenkar College, Tel Aviv, Israel *
Upright Twisted *
Accordian *
Fashion Designed by Anthropology, USA *
Architecture Dior Showroom, Barbarito Bancell Architects, Miami +
Knife *
Knife *
Designed by Liat Greenberg, Dept. of Fashion Design, Shenkar College, Tel Aviv, Israel *
Aix en Provence conservatory of music in France by Kengo Kuma #
Cut pop-ups *
Cut Knife * *Complete Pleats: Pleating Techniques for Fashion, Architecture and Design by Paul Jackson + www.archdaily.com #http://www.yellowtrace.com.au/fins-and-folded-facades/ 3
3. CASE STUDIES
DIOR SHOWROOM MIAMI
Elegance
Tradition Creativity Nobility
Innovation Wonder Perfection
“Architecture transcends trends, and its image needs to outlive time that goes by and continue to represent Dior’s spirit in a sustainable manner.” – Ivana Barbarito
Inspiration sketch based on Dior dresses (Drawing: Ivana Barbarito) Source : archdaily.com 4
The facade plays with the sun in an alternation of light and shadow along the day. The curves overlap up to drawing, at the top, a tight arc, in a thrust towards the sky.
The interior spaces participate in the movement of the facade. The showcases appear between the pleats and the planes retreat and open more firmly to shelter the passer-by and invite him to enter.
Source : archdaily.com
NEO SOLAR POWER CORPORATION, Taiwan DESIGNED BY: J. J. Pans and Partners
The exterior walls are designed as a continuous wave of glass panels in the concept of “starting-folding-concluding“ to express the design ideas of “undulation, transference.”
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1 3
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Figure 1 : Concept of Folding Figure 2 : Method of fixing the curtain wall Figure 3 : West Elevation Figure 4 : View of the North side elevation
Image source: archdaily.com google images Source : archdaily.com
Figure 5 : Interior view of Ground Floor
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CONCLUSION: It can be concluded from the previous examples that by drawing inspiration from fashion principles and translating it to an architectural form, the ideas of pleating, folding and layering have been applied to façade of the building.
ANALYSIS Sr. No.
Project Name and Architect
Pleating Technique
1
Dior Showroom, Miami Architect : Barbarito Bancel
KNIFE PLEAT CLOSED:
2
Neo Solar Power Corporation, Taiwan Architect: JJ Pans & Partners
Materials used Inferences • •
KNIFE PLEAT OPEN:
• •
Dense concrete White color provided by marble powder
+The clean white façade not only stands up to the name of the brand but also helps in saving energy through natural daylighting - Bland Façade during daytime
Tinted Glass curtain wall Steel Members
+The façade not only imitates the look of a solar panel but also creates a greener indoor environment - Adds on to artificial ventilation costs
Images
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Sr.No.
Author Name
Title of Research Paper/Book
Research Methodology
Inferences
1
Melodi Barzandeh
‘FASHION, ARCHITECTURE AND THE URBAN ENVIRONMENT’ The Parallel Relationships Between Fashion and Architecture
Qualitative
•
The fold as a Concept Structure in Architecture of Post-Modern Time
Qualitative
2
Fatemeh Ghafari Tavasoli
• • • •
Relationship between Fashion and Architecture Fashion Principles used to design an educational campus Folding Theory and its Post Modern Concept Folding and Theoretical Background of Baroque. Eisenmann’s Concept of Fold
3
www.ukessays.com
Fashion and Architecture
Qualitative
• Understanding Architecture and Fashion through the ages.
4
Paul Jackson
Complete Pleats
Book
• •
Understanding of pleats and its types Applications and Modelling
5
Matthew Krissel
GILLES DELEUZE The architecture of space and the fold
Research article
•
Understanding of fold explained by Philosopher Gilles Deleuze
6
Rafael García
Concrete Folded Plates in the Netherlands
Qualitative
•
Types of folded plate concrete structures
7
Paul Jackson
Cut and Fold Techniques for Pop designs
Book
• •
Understanding a pop up Techniques and applications
8
Paul Jackson
Folding Techniques
Book
• •
Basic folding techniques introduction Applications and 3-D model interpretations
9
Brooke Hodge
Skin + Bones Parallel Practices in Architecture and Fashion
Book
•
Relationships between architecture and fashion Implementing architecture in fashion and vice versa
•
Literature Review
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