Souvenirs Fall 2021 by Souvenirs

fall 2021

table of contents

LO O K I N G U P : F I N D I N G H O P E I N T H E VA L L E YS

A FA L L T R AV E L P L AY L I S T

PA N D E M I C PA N I C : A B R OA D D U R I N G C OV I D

I N O U R O W N B AC K YA R D

A P I L L A R O F T R AV E L , T H E J U G E N D H E R B E R G E

T H E R E I S N O PAT H

T H E P E A KS & VA L L E YS O F T R AV E L I N G

R E P O S E AWAY F R O M T H E R E S O R T

O U R O W N OAS I S

B E S T S P OTS TO S E E FA L L F O L I AG E I N T H E U . S .

A B E G I N N E R ’S G U I D E TO Y E L LO W S TO N E

The Publications Committee of the Wisconsin Union Directorate Celebrates creativity on campus by providing hands-on experience in publishing, editing, writing and artmaking. Through the publishing of our 4 student-run journals and magazines, we provide a creative outlet for UW-Madison students interested in creating poetry and prose

Photo by Angelina Huang, USA

SOUVENIRS Letter From the Editor

n 2008, my family and I traveled to Hawaii to visit my mom’s family on the big island where she was born and raised. After a long day of travel, we decided to be spontaneous and check out the tide pools near our rental on the first night. My siblings and I were young, so my mom wouldn’t let us swim in any of the tide pools for fear of the many sea urchins lining the rocky walls. My dad, however, stopped to jump in every pocket of chrystal water that was big enough. We discovered a particularly large tide pool, still only the size of a small car, and my dad decided to dive in headfirst. That’s when our adventure took a turn for the worse. When he came up out of the water, he was seething in pain from scraping his knee hard against a rock. We spent that night waiting in the car outside of the small local hospital, occupying the time while my dad received much-needed stitches. I’ll never forget: when he was released from the hospital, he told us that the doctor had been scraping at a stubborn piece of rock in his knee, only to realize too-late that it was actually bone. We’ve all experienced travel nightmares: lost luggage, flight cancellations,

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falling ill on the first day of vacation. But, of course, it’s the positive memories that spark our wanderlust again and again: the chance encounters with local wildlife, epic views from a mountain top, moving interactions with strangers that make the world feel both big and small at the same time. The theme of this issue is Peaks & Valleys because traveling always has its highs and its lows, its ups and its downs, but we keep craving more. And that’s just life, isn’t it? A series of ups and downs, highs and lows, peaks and valleys. When we reach euphoric peaks of happiness, success or contentment, we inevitably have to come down. But when we’re in the valley, feeling stuck at rock bottom, there’s only one direction to look: up. It’s these extremes that make the clearest memories. The lows we’ve experienced in the past couple years have been, well, lower than we could have ever seen coming. It’s a period that we will never forget. But as you read this issue of Souvenirs, we invite you to look up at your peaks of past and present. Get inspired by our favorite travel memories to get out there and build more of your own! Happy traveling!

Lili Sarajian, Editor in Chief

Contributors Fall 2021 Editor in Chief Lili Sarajian Deputy Editor Olivia O’Brien Marketing Director Lindsey Pollack Art Director Annie Claypool Layout Designers Madelaine Triebold Peijia Li Lili Sarajian Editors Olivia O’Brien Peri Cook Staff Writers Abby Bradbury Zoe Lan Guderyon Christy Klein Kyle Engels Shue Gottschalk Maria Brunetta Rose Kelleher Ella Sabin Lili Sarajian

Contributing Writers Lucia Macek Lindsey Pollack Contributing Photographers Angelina Huang Lindsey Pollack Abby Bradbury Isabella Ferraro Zoe Guderyon Camille Gorman Shue Gottschalk Madelaine Triebold Annie Claypool Olivia O’Brien Peijia Li Lili Sarajian Cover Photo Angelina Huang, Iceland WUD Publications Committee Director Lauren Damgaard WUD Publications Committee Advisor Robin Schmoldt

Fall 2021 Photo by Lindsey Pollack, Yosemite

Looking Up: Finding Hope in the Valleys BY: ABBY BRADBURY

Photos by Abby Bradbury

Souvenirs Photo by Angelina Huang, USA

It had been a long day — what felt like the longest of my life. I sat down on an oddly-shaped boulder to enjoy my dinner of Jetboiled mac ‘n cheese. While consuming (certainly not enjoying) my meal, I burst into tears — tears fueled by an ominous, harsh reality: I was sitting at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, and the only way out was up. At this point in my life, I didn’t consider myself to be a hiker. Though I had been on multiple hiking trips with my family, I found little enjoyment in the redundancy of walking up a mountain just to walk right back down. So, when my dad began to plan a spring break trip consisting of three whole nights sleeping at the rock bottom of all rock bottoms, I was skeptical to say the very least. Nonetheless, the plan was put in motion and preparations began. We flew into Las Vegas, and then drove four hours to Grand Canyon National Park. Believe me when I say the transition from the Las Vegas Strip to the solitary depths of the Grand Canyon is one the most stark contrasts one can experience in America. We spent the first night of our “vacation” camping by the rim of the canyon. It appeared the midwest cold had followed us across the country; the temperature dipped to 20°F overnight. We were armed only with the warmth and comfort of hats, mittens and blankets purchased from a Las Vegas Goodwill, and the pro-

tection of a not-so-airtight tent. The next morning, we began the six mile descent into what we called “The Pit.” We got off to a somewhat rocky start: someone’s shoe burst at the seams and we almost lost a backpack with most of our food and essentials within the first hour. But besides these minor hiccups, the descent wasn’t too bad. By the time we got to the bottom, I was emotionally and physically drained. Hence the tears, even though I got first dibs on what freeze-dried meal I wanted for dinner. After our meal, we arrived at our lovely accommodation for the next three nights: a semi-flat area with a sign marking the site number. The part I couldn’t wrap my head around was that we actually paid to rent this camping spot. After waking up from what I’m fairly certain was the worst sleep of my life, I pondered one of life’s greatest questions:

what does one do with their day while at the bottom of the Grand Canyon? We spent the next few days trying to answer this question. In short, the answer is not much. It sort of felt like a road trip to a beach vacation, where the journey there is long, but once you arrive it’s just a matter of relaxing and enjoying your surroundings.

FEELING SO REMOVED FROM THE WORLD ABOVE WAS REFRESHING AND PEACEFUL.

Except our “beach” was the Colorado River. We hiked to the river as a day trip on the second day (yes, a hike within a hike) for a change of scenery, and slowly but surely, I began to enjoy my time at the

bottom of the canyon. Feeling so removed from the world above was refreshing and peaceful. We spent most of our days playing cards, listening to music and ultimately preparing for the beast of a hike we were about to endure: going back up. The hike out of the Grand Canyon was gruelling, to put it lightly. It was hot, our bodies were fatigued and it was all, obviously, uphill. The last mile of the hike out was the most taxing. We started to come in contact with other people, and after not showering or looking in a mirror for four days, this reality was frightening. I scowled at the people wearing Converse and playing music while enjoying their leisurely afternoon stroll. I felt a rush of emotion after finally emerging from the Grand Canyon. My exhaustion and hunger were hard to ignore, but overall feelings of pride and accomplishment prevailed. Not to mention, I was the first one out of the Grand Canyon from our group of eight. After getting back to our cars and leaving the national park, we decided to join the real world again by going to In-N-Out Burger for one of the best tasting meals I’ve ever had. It’s been a few years since this trip, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.The trials, tribulations and everything in between made it one of the most memorable experiences of my life, and I now consider myself a “hiker.” My Grand Canyon trip exposed me to being truly disconnected from the world above, finding comfort in solitude and taking everything in as it comes. Of the five million people who visit the Grand Canyon annually, less than one percent descend below the rim. If you get the chance, be a one-percenter.

Fall 2021

A Fall Travel Playlist S E E T H E WO R L D • Gomez

B I G J E T P L A N E • Angus & Julia Stone

WAY B AC K W H E N • Kodaline

R I V E R S A N D R OA D S • The Head and the Heart

S A F E • Bay Ledges

K AT I E Q U E E N OF T E N N E SS E E • The Apache Relay

S L E E P O N T H E F LO O R • Lumineers

I S L A N D I N T H E S U N • Weezer

STAY G O L D • First Aid Kit

B R A Z I L • Declan McKenna

O N TO P OF T H E WO R L D • Imagine Dragons

R I D E • Twenty One Pilots

R OA D TO N OW H E R E • Talking Heads

T H E SW E E T E S C A P E • Gwen Stefani

Photo by Lindsey Pollack, Yosemite

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Fall 2021

Pandemic Panic: Abroad During Covid BY: ZO E G U D E R YO N

It was late February when citizens of Seoul began to wear masks, not because of air pollution, but because of the mysterious Covid-19 virus. Within weeks everyone, including my international school, was told to follow the South Korean government’s instructions: wear a mask and maintain social distance when indoors. It was as if overnight a wave of influence swept over the entire country that propelled people to follow these instructions. Because of these measures, my life was not impacted much by the pandemic — at least for a while. Despite the rise of Covid-19 in the rest of the world, I remember not feeling terribly alarmed about my personal situation. Schooling continued, stores stayed open and even national travel was permitted, all with limited capacity. The scariest part about being abroad was not the fact that all health-related information was in a foreign language or that international travel was slowly being restricted. It was the uncertainty that came with being apart from my family and going to bed knowing anything could happen while I was asleep. My grandparents, in particular, who were 88 at the beginning of the pandemic, were especially hard to be away from. Every night I was filled with terror that they could slip away, and I would be on the other side of the globe. Being thousands of miles away from my family and friends made it far more difficult to cope with the pandemic. As the months went on and the Covid-19 situation continued to worsen in the U.S., feelings of guilt and helplessness began to kick in. I remember thinking that being abroad during the pandemic was somehow worse than if I would have been back in Middleton, Wisconsin.

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Photo by Isabella Ferraro, Slovania

However, at the end of the day, the difference between a 13-hour plane ride and 13-minute drive would not have changed anything. The direness of the Covid-19 pandemic hit especially hard at the end of 2020, when my family and I moved back to the U.S. Not only was I unable to visit my grandparents, but I was also unable to leave my house. The response to the pandemic in the U.S., after what felt like months of denial of the virus’s severity, made me realize that being abroad would not have made a difference.

Fast forward to Spring 2021 when the vaccine rolled out. After over a year, I was finally able to see my grandparents and family again. My family held an outdoor reunion in celebration of no longer having to live in fear and for my grandparents’ 90th birthdays. Being apart from my family and loved ones for such a prolonged period of time made the reunion that much more special. The importance of love, communication and togetherness could never have been more important during times like this that are unpredictable and filled with uncertainty.

Photo by Isabella Ferraro, Slovania

Fall 2021

In Our Own Backyard BY: C H R I ST Y K L E I N

Wisconsin boasts no grand mountain ranges, oceanfront vistas or alluring deserts. Most people (Wisconsinites included) are drawn to the state’s cheese and beer; but we are much more than that. Recently, I journeyed to a Wisconsin treasure that places our state firmly among the bold and beautiful: Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. The park is located at the very northern tip of the state near Bayfield, WI where 12 miles of shoreline stretch out along the mainland and 21 islands surround the peninsula. Steeped in Native American history, the Apostle Islands are most well-known for their sea caves, which have been carved into sandstone by Lake Superior’s relentless waves. There are many ways to experience the Apostle Islands, but here are a few to spark your wanderlust: Day Hike There are more than 50 miles of trails on the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Of the 21 islands, 12 are available for day hikes. All are reachable via one of the many boat tour and water taxi companies that sprinkle the shoreline, though this option comes with a high price tag. The Lakeshore Trail on the mainland is the most accessible and the least costly. It is scenic, beautiful, and challenging, so it may not be for everyone. This trail runs 6 miles through forests and along the sandstone cliffs that sit on top of the famous sea caves; many visitors choose to hike their preferred distance and turn back to the trailhead. When hiked to completion, the trail is a 12 mile out-andback trek. The trailhead is located at the Meyers Beach parking lot, and the trail itself is rugged and best-suited for hikers who are comfortable with stream crossings

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and steep climbs. The hard work is well worth it, for it boasts panoramic views of the Apostle Islands, Lake Superior and even a bird’s eye view of the sea caves. Suitable footwear, water, sunscreen and bug repellent in the summer are crucial to an enjoyable experience. The first mile is significantly easier than the rest, thanks to its boardwalk with steps and bridges. But, the middle portion of the trail wanders along the slippery edges of sandstone cliffs (so step carefully!), and the remainder of the trail is heavy with roots and rocks. Backpack Backpacking is an excellent way to escape the scramble of everyday life. There is something attractive about the simplicity of carrying all one needs in a backpack while wandering wherever the wind goes. At the far end of the Lakeshore Trail sits a single campsite, Mainland Campsite #1, where a picnic table, a bear box, a fire ring and a privy await. For any who wish to carry the bare necessities on their backs, reserving this spot is a must. The 12 mile round trip trek makes for a backpacking overnighter that is suitable for beginners and experienced hikers alike. Anyone who longs for a greater sense of solitude and oneness with nature would also enjoy backpacking on the islands themselves. A water taxi will shuttle you to the islands, 12 of which have reservable campsites. Another 15 allow dispersed camping for those who truly wish for the wild. Be sure to brush up on the principles of Leave-No-Trace and bear safety. Black bears are native to these islands and have been known to get a little too comfortable with humans.

Kayak While hiking and backpacking allow you to experience the islands and all they have to offer, the sea caves are a main attraction. Hiking on top of the sea caves and exploring them from within are two very different experiences. The only way to see the inside of a sea cave is by small watercraft. Kayaks are the go-to for locals, although boat tours and fishing charters are common for those who would rather not take a workout with their sightseeing. The sea caves are sprinkled all along the cliffs of the National Lakeshore. There are sea caves carved into the cliff faces of most of the islands, but the most famous are the sea caves of the Mainland. From there, explore the sea caves and float through grand sandstone arches. If the weather is at its best, kayakers can meander through tunnels such as Mouse Hole which starts deep within a giant cave and opens back up to Lake Superior. Although taking a personal kayak out to the caves is an option, I highly recommend booking a kayak tour with one of the many kayak companies in Bayfield, LaPointe and Cornucopia. The guides are trained in kayak safety and gauging Lake Superior’s behavior. If you do opt to take a personal craft, be sure to take a personal flotation device and inform a trusted person about your plans. While this Great Lake is beautiful, Lake Superior has riptides and powerful waves that have destroyed pirate ships. Whichever adventure you choose, the Apostle Islands are sure to impress.

Fall 2021

A Pillar of German Travel, the Jugendherberge BY: K Y L E E N G E LS

When we think of travel, we often focus on the destination we’re visiting, not the place where we rest our heads. In Germany, my friends and I were introduced to a type of lodging that I hadn’t experienced before: youth hostels, or “jugendherberge.” These buildings are different from a typical hotel you would find in the states. They are primarily a place for young people to find an affordable place to stay the night. Most youth hostels in Germany range from €14.90 to € 33.00 for a one night stay, or about $16 to $40 a night depending on the location. The trade-off for this price, of course, comes in the quality of the hostel itself. These hostels aren’t dirty or dangerous, but they usually won’t have the extra amenities of a typical hotel that come at a much higher price. Rooms in

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Photo by Angelina Huang, USA

our hostel accommodated 1 to 2 people, with a shared bathroom in each hall. There were also lounges separating each hallway, with tables and chairs that served me and my friends as a congregating area after a long day. We made use of a separate lounge downstairs, with air hockey and pinball to occasionally pass the time (and stay up way too late). Food was served buffet style in a small cafeteria with set hours. For breakfast, we got fresh fruit, sausages and broetchen. During dinner, we enjoyed excellent German cuisine including schweinshaxe (pork knuckle), schnitzel (breaded cutlet) and more sausages (wurst, bratwurst, weisswurst etc.). While not overly luxurious, our time in the youth hostel was perfect for a small group of travelers, like us, that needed to keep our budget low. As a whole, youth hostels across Ger-

many are organized under the century-old German Youth Hostel Organization (Deutsches Jugendherbergswerk in German, or DJH for short). With over 2.5 million registered members and 450 hostels, the DJH acts as an integral part of lodging for young travelers looking for an easy resting place. In the past, there used to be over 2,000 hostels, acting more as checkpoints for hikers making their way across the countryside. Now that hiking has fallen out of favor compared to a century ago, many of these hostels have closed down to better fit modern times. Some hostels offer opportunities to develop various skills and engage in cultural workshops. Some even provide recording studios or tree-top walks, which have been implemented to make stays more lively and to help travelers get to know German culture better.

WITH SO MANY INCREDIBLE PLACES TO VISIT ACROSS THE COUNTRY, IT’S IMPORTANT TO HAVE HOSTELS THAT NOT ONLY SERVE AS A PLACE TO REST A TRAVELER’S HEAD, BUT SUPPORT THE CALL FOR EXPLORATION AND ADVENTURE THAT MANY CRAVE.

The original goal of the jugendherberge was to get young people out of urban areas and back in touch with nature by providing a safe place to stay the night. Despite the fact that many of these hostels are now located in urban areas, such as the one we stayed in, there remain many that fulfill the purpose of exposing youth to nature. Given Germany’s beautiful countryside, it makes sense that they have stuck around in great prominence for over a century. The Jugendherberge remains an integral aspect of German youth culture, as well as a vital system for travelers looking for a taste of the German lifestyle. While they may not seem as attractive as the locations they reside in, without them, the cost and ability for young people to explore the country would dwindle. With so many incredible places to visit across the country, it’s important to have hostels that not only serve as a place to rest a traveler’s head, but support the call for exploration and adventure that many crave. e lounge downstairs, with air hockey and pinball to occasionally pass the time (and stay up way too late).

Fall 2021

There Is No Path BY: S H U E G O T T S C H A L K

I grew up on Star Trek. Every week, Captain Kirk’s introduction filled my head with daydreams of traveling the world: “These are the voyages of the starship Enterprise; its five year mission to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before.” I knew I would never visit other planets, but I was determined to step foot on every continent of this planet. But how and where should a budding wanderer begin? At 10 years old, I lived in a pre-internet, pre-email world. I discovered “strange new worlds” by ordering free travel brochures from a magazine called The Happy Wanderer. I would get five or more letters per week, the old-fashioned kind, delivered to a physical mailbox. Each envelope contained exotic color photographs, maps and bits of travel marketing about bus tours, bed and breakfasts, island-hopping adventures — rich fodder for youthful daydreams about travel. I eagerly watched the mailbox and spent weekends crafting lists and itineraries, devouring travel pamphlets on the Australian Outback, English tea gardens, Niagara Falls, Caribbean islands, Bangkok. During my adolescence and young adulthood, my travel wishlist mushroomed, like a parched sponge in a rainstorm. Still, it took me years to realize that no matter how organized I was, I could never shoehorn my extra-large wanderlust into two weeks of vacation per year. Like the Starship Enterprise, my travel mission would have to span years. This is when my wanderlust shifted away from popular destinations and tourist activities to focus more on learning and lingering. National Geographic introduced me to anthropology, geopolitics and zoolo-

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gy. It showed me things that The Happy Wanderer didn’t: ancient pilgrimage routes, villages on stilts, 10,000-year-old bones, icebergs in Patagonia, windswept science stations in Greenland and Antarctica, women carrying jugs of water on their heads. Seeing the beautiful glossy images in National Geographic forever linked photography and travel in my mind. As I cut out photos of mountains and islands, sand dunes and palm trees, penguins and elephants, I realized that travel was my pathway to learning about the world, and photography was my pathway to sharing it. During my early university years, I discovered the black and white darkroom where I learned how to compose photos and print my images (the analog way). I briefly considered a study abroad semester in Africa and a round-the-world summer trip with my boyfriend, but like most students, I had more time than money, and I could find plenty of photo-worthy subjects without leaving Wisconsin: cornfields, old cars, cheese factories, quarries, cemeteries, carnivals, gardens, parks and zoos. I LIKE TO THINK IT WAS THE APPETIZER COURSE OF A LIFELONG FEAST Beyond money scarcity, I did not feel ready for a grand international adventure because planning a multi-month, multi-country trip seemed endlessly tricky. How would I possibly anticipate the perfect alignment of money, time off, weather, health, politics, and a committed travel buddy? The options and variables overwhelmed me. This mind-

set discouraged me from beginning my dream trip, but it also taught me the value of focusing my travels around a particular theme, like street art or food trucks. I contented myself with smaller, simpler, focused trips: spring break in Texas, Colorado’s national parks, a music festival in California, a summer roadtrip to see the northern lights, a two-week language immersion program in Guatemala, hiking the Camino de Compostela in Spain, a yoga workshop in Jamaica. For years I delayed a momentous international trip, but with a milestone birthday looming, it was time for an ultimatum: travel solo, no more excuses, start now. The thought of actually carrying through with such an open-ended travel plan scared me to my core. I wish I had done it sooner. Truly, the first step was the hardest. But once I had chosen the departure month and year, all other travel decisions fell into place. My mission: to circle the Mediterranean, a plan specific enough to buy an airplane ticket, but general enough to allow me the freedom to wander. Using airline miles, I bought a oneway ticket to Milan, hoping that by the time I tired of wandering, I would have earned enough airline miles for my return ticket. As a solo female traveler and a photographer, my main priority was safe, hands-free travel — I did not want to drag a 50 pound suitcase over cobblestone alleys and up twisting staircases, so I chose a modest $39 Walmart backpack and stuffed it with five outfits and a laptop. Instead of bringing a bulky multilens SLR camera, I used my Android cell phone to document the adventure. In my 7-month travel sabbatical, I walked the soles off three pairs of shoes,

roamed the cities and landscapes of 18 countries, photographed peaks and valleys and four dozen UNESCO world heritage sites. I made new friends and crossed paths with old friends. Still, my journey traversed just a tiny corner of the earth, so I like to think it was the appetizer course of a lifelong feast. I have so many strange new worlds and civilizations yet to explore. Star Trek had taught me how to be an explorer, The Happy Wanderer showed me how to plan a vacation, National Geo-

Photos by Shue Gottschalk

graphic depicted the world as a fascinating living museum and my photography teacher trained me how to recognize and capture luminous life moments with my camera. All of these things conspired to fuel my wanderlust. Whatever fuels your wanderlust, there are 1,000 ways to start. Lockdown is a brilliant time to be an armchair traveler and begin the research, or to hone travel skills by exploring your hometown, home state or national parks. Wherever you decide to wander, remember that Life will

always throw up roadblocks to challenge and distract you — a new semester, a new job, a new house, a surgery, a breakup, the death of a parent, a revolution, a tsunami, a pandemic. Travel anyway. Life is messy, and the water is rising, so just start walking. “Traveler, there is no path — the path is made by walking.”

Antonio Machado

Croatia

France

Mostar Bridge

Italy

Fall 2021

The Peaks & Valleys of Traveling

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My travel low happened when I was staying in a hotel near Banff in Canada. Our power went out for the entire night while I was doing laundry. We left the hotel the next day with all of my laundry sopping wet.

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I backpacked Pictured Rocks in November, and I took a shuttle to the trailhead, but it dropped me in a different place than I expected. I hiked in, and added 5 miles to an 11 mile day. Then, it began raining. I was soaked, my gear was wet and it was supposed to drop into the mid-30’s. I hiked for 12 miles, but I didn’t go to camp just out of concern for my own safety. I hiked back to my car and drove 5 hours back home. I was so frustrated!

Lows

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I hiked for 12 miles, but I didn’t go to camp just out of concern for my own safety. I hiked back to my car and drove 5 hours back home. I was so frustrated! •

Spending over 16 hours in the Minneapolis airport after my flight continually got delayed

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Stepping through ice and getting my foot soaking wet in cold water while hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park

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My nearly averted metro mugging in Mexico City and getting lost multiple times every day

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My nearly averted metro mugging in Mexico City and getting lost multiple times every day

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One time my family was flying to Paris from New York and halfway through the flight, we had to turn around because of a sick passenger and lose a full day of our trip. It was so upsetting, but we made the best of the rest of our trip!

Photo by Shue Gottschalk, Montenegro

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My travel high was when I went on an east coast band trip with all of my best friends from high school. We got to see New York City, Boston, Cape Cod, Washington D.C., Pittsburg and Philadelphia all in the span of 10 days! My first solo camping trip was such a blast. I camped at an old childhood spot and travelled to about 5 different hiking trails. I didn’t have to worry about losing someone, keeping up, or how anyone else was feeling. I could be selfish with my own time and be happy about it.

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My travel high is when we were on top of a mountain in Rio de Janeiro to see the view at night and there was an unexpected night market full of food, music and gifts!

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Hiking Chasm Lake in Colorado with my best friends last summer!

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I saw a sea turtle once while snorkeling in Florida!

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My favorite travel moment was when I realized that solo travel is not lonely!

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I love the feeling of arriving at the destinations airport, the mix of exhaustion and excitement makes for a perfect feeling. No matter how long I’ve been on the plane, or how little I’ve slept, I love anticipating the new sights I am going to see and the new foods I will get to try. It’s the best way to start off any trip.

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One of the best travel experiences I’ve ever had was the feeling of peace and awe from way up in the sky in a hot air balloon ride over Napa Valley.

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Fall 2021 Photo by Lindsey Pollack, Yosemite

Repose Away From the Resort BY: M A R I A B R U N E T TA

Most people take a beach vacation to get away from their busy life, but what happens when your hotel routine feels too much like a routine and you’re looking for an opportunity to be active and disconnect? Tropical hikes can turn into one of the most magical experiences of a trip. You are completely disconnected from the world and are able to see an entirely different species of plants and animals. Rio de Janeiro, Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic all have unique and remarkable hikes to get you off the beach and into the wild. Rio de Janeiro The city of Rio has a magic that can’t be described. Their people, the Cariocas, welcome you with open arms, ready to share their culture. Rio is known for its

unique landscape of peaks and valleys which seamlessly connect with the ocean, and they’re watched over by the iconic Cristo Redentor, or Christ the Redeemer. The area surrounding the main attraction is called “Morro do Corcovado” within the Tijuca Forest, and there are many tours that can take you up to the statue. “Morro” in Portuguese means hill, and “corcovado” means hunchback, since the hill the statue sits on is curved. To get to the top, one may take the “Trem do Corcovado’’ (cable car) or a taxi halfway up and then take a van, find a tour bus, or take the 5 mile hike. The trail is considered harder as it’s pretty steep, but most people’s concern is safety. There have been some incidents of muggings on the route, but there are guards stationed at the entrance. Don’t

forget to bring cash if you are planning on seeing the statue and/or taking the cable car down! Another iconic Rio location is the “Pao de Azucar”, or Sugar Loaf Mountain. To get to the top of that, it’s an actual rock climb. Luckily, Morro Da Urca, the slightly smaller hill in front, is a short and easy hike, where at the top you’ll find shops, food, and the infamous “bondinho”, or tram, where you’ll get an amazing 360 degree view of the city. The bondinho will also get you to the top of the “Pao de Azucar.” On the hike, you’ll get amazing views of the city, and if you’re lucky an up close encounter with the Sagui monkeys! Puerto Rico Known for its vast beaches and large caves, Puerto Rico is home to a 28,000 acre national forest called El Yunque.

Photo by Madelaine Triebold

Photo by Annie Claypool, Hawaii

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Several adventures are in store when you visit here, including a dip in one of the three waterfalls to refresh your day. Be sure to pay attention to the hundreds of native plants and tree species, especially the tiny tree frog, Coqui! Unfortunately, after hurricanes Maria and Irma, El Yunque had to close many spots, but since then, crowds have been managed with timed-entry tickets. At El Yunque, there are also tour options which can include waterfalls, ziplines, and natural pools. There are several difficulty levels for trails, but no matter what you choose, be aware that they are very slippery and muddy! Dominican Republic The Dominican Republic is full of national parks with things to do for all hikers. For a family-friendly guided adventure, Scape Park offers hikes through the woods on a cultural route, with the opportunity to learn about the natives and slaves brought by Spaniards from Africa to the DR. There are caves to swim in, including the Hoyo Azul, a hidden cenote reached at the end of one of the tropical hikes. In the DR, one may also hike the highest mountain in the Caribbean, Pico Duarte. The Mountain rises 10,164 ft above sea level, and the most popular hike spans 29 miles! For a challenging, rocky, and almost vertical hike, visitors can climb El Mogote.. Taking about 3 hours for avid hikers, the trail will not be full due to the daunting terrain. Finally, if a boat excursion is on the itinerary, a hike in Parque Nacional Los Haitises would be the destination. You’ll hike through caves and bluffs, and see the wildlife. Tropical destinations offer a variety of hikes ranging from a beautiful walk to a difficult climb. You never know what you’ll see on your hike, from animals, to a cool plant, to a hidden body of water, that’s what’s exciting! It’s all unpredictable so the best thing is to disconnect from the world and be open to a magical adventure.

Photo by Olivia O’Brien, Sintra

Fall 2021

Spain

France

Our Own Oasis BY: R O S E K E L L E H E R There’s nothing like eating pizza at 6 a.m. in the District of Columbia airport with nine of your best friends. We all slept throughout the plane ride, finally landing in San Jose airport at around 3 p.m. What we did not realize was how long the bus ride to the house was. Noah, whose house we were headed to, told us a few hours in the car would get us there no problem. Seven hours later, he lived to regret those words. We had been stuck on a narrow street behind a fruit truck for hours, moving very slowly. We regained our energy and momentum when we were about an hour away from the house, belting pop songs that we listened to when we were young. When we arrived at the house, there were coconuts waiting for us in the fridge. We sipped the cold coconut water as we admired the open layout of the house and the tropical decor. The house belongs to our friend’s family which they bought as a vacation home in 2016. It has two floors, and enough space for several guests, and is located on the southern coast of Costa Rica. The furniture was bright and colorful, complementing the vibrant colors of the foliage sitting just outside the open wall layout of the house. The next day we woke up to the sunlight shining into the open door house,

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warm and bright. We walked over the rock path to the beach through the colorful flowers and greenery to the black sand and dark blue water to go for a swim. Going for a morning swim in the cool water — with substantially large waves — became a daily tradition for anyone who was awake. We took the first day to explore the town we were staying in, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and checked out the local bars and stores. Each bar was welcoming to us, giving us complimentary drinks and appetizers as we sat there for hours. That evening, we went to one of the local clubs and danced to Spanish music, blue and pink strobe lights flashing all over the club. A couple of days of exploring town and lounging around was enough; we finally got ourselves together enough to organize a few activities. Our first excursion was a scenic hike to a waterfall. Our tour guide told us about “bullet ants” and warned us to watch out for them because their bites are extremely painful even as he walked through the rain forest without shoes. It rained all throughout the hike, which was lovely and cooled us down after walking in the humidity. The waterfall was huge, and none of us could resist taking a dip in the blue water. The rocks un-

der the water were covered in moss, causing us to slip as we stepped in. Regardless, it was one of the most mesmerizing things I have ever seen.

IT WAS TRULY MAGICAL TO BE SURROUNDED BY SUCH BEAUTIFUL GREENERY, ENDLESS WATER AND WONDERFUL FRIENDS.

That evening we relaxed on the beach watching the orange, pink and purple sunset over the water. It was truly magical to be surrounded by such beautiful greenery, endless water and wonderful friends. As we approached the end of our trip, we decided it was time for one more big outing. We rented kayaks and followed a path through the forest to the ocean. We quickly made a competition of it, and while I did not win, the breathtaking view distracted me from my loss. After we finished up the route, we still had a couple of hours to kill before dinner. The kayak shed was on a charming beach overlooking the mountains, and we swam into the evening. The water was freezing as the sun went down, but it was a fantastic final memory to end the trip.

Spain

France Photos by Shue Gottschalk

Croatia

Fall 2021

Best Spots to See Fall Foliage in the U.S. BY: E L L A S A B I N

There are so many places around the world to see the leaves change colors in the fall, and some of them are right here in the United States! Read on to see a few of the most sought-after places to experience the change of seasons in America. The Poconos, Pennsylvania The Pocono Mountains, or Poconos, are a mountainous region in Pennsylvania. The range of forested peaks are surrounded by? Interspersed lakes and valleys amidst natural beauty you can admire the lush forests and cascading waterfalls, pristine beaches and flowing rivers. Brooklyn, New York While you may not think that urban New York is a great place to see fall colors, much less trees, Brooklyn has some beautiful city parks that offer a nice escape from the concrete jungle that surrounds the city. This option is great for people who want to see the foliage, but stay close to the amenities and fast-paced lifestyle of the city.

Photos by Peijia Li, Wisconsin

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Cape Cod, Massachusetts Just a short drive away from New York is Cape Cod, Massachusetts. This beautiful seaside town not only has serene beaches and a fun boardwalk area to explore, but plenty of biking and walking trails to explore the surrounding nature and forests.

Madison, Wisconsin In the heart of the Midwest is Madison, Wisconsin and it’s unbeatable fall ambiance. State Street, with over 200 shops and restaurants; Lakeshore Nature Preserve, with miles of trails for walking and biking, and the beautiful capitol square surrounding the state capitol — there is so much to see beyond the changing leaves in Madison. And the four lakes in the area are truly the wonder of the city. The red and orange in the leaves as they change colors perfectly contrasts the sparkling blue water of the lakes, creating a serene atmosphere. Aspen, Colorado Out on the west coast, there are plenty of places to visit to see the leaves change and drop, even though this isn’t where people typically think to travel to for fall foliage sightseeing. One of these special places is Aspen, Colorado. Before Aspen turns into a ski destination for the winter, its residents and tourists alike enjoy a beautiful fall season as the leaves transform in the picturesque downtown and surrounding mountainous terrain. Whether you explore one of these places or simply step out into your own backyard, there is so much beauty around you to be seen!

Fall 2021

A Beginner’s Guide to Yellowstone BY: L I L I S A R A J I A N I’m not a hiker. I’m not even what you would call an “outdoorsy person.” In my family, bonding usually happend around the table of a trendy restaurant or in comfy movie theater chairs. So I’m not really sure whose idea it was to center our weeklong vacation around a trip to Yellowstone National Park. Alright, I’ll be honest. We only spent one day at Yellowstone. We didn’t do the four-day camping in the park, sleeping with the bison thing, but that one day was enough for me to walk away truly in awe of this planet we live on. If you’re like me and haven’t spent much time in our national parks, but you’ve found yourself Yellowstone-bound, take my experience as a guide to getting the most out of your daytrip (without leaving with unwelcome blisters). I’ll preface this by saying the extent of my “research” on Yellowstone was a rushed Google search the night before we were supposed to leave at 7 a.m. But, I was comforted to find that it’s all fairly simple. Yellowstone has five entrances, and each of these entrances brings you to a unique feature of the park.

to get to Lamar Valley where elk, bears, and bison (oh my!) roam free (and sometimes cause untimely traffic jams). This entrance also takes you along Beartooth Highway, known for its on-top-of-theworld views of Beartooth Pass. South Entrance Perfect for winter visitors, the South Entrance is closest to Jackson, one of Montana’s best spots for skiing. While this route starts off slow with a 22 mile drive without any turnoffs, once you reach the visitor center you’re well-positioned to take advantage of the best of what the east and west sides have to offer. East Entrance The East Entrance leads right to Yellowstone Lake, the largest mountain lake in the U.S. Despite the geothermal features that line its shores, the lake is actually far too cold for swimming safely, but it still offers excellent views. If you enter this way, make sure to stop in Cody, an Old Western town founded by Buffalo Bill, full of everything cowboy hats and rodeos

North Entrance The North Entrance is the only entrance open year-round, and it’s situated near the orangy tiers of the Mammoth Hot Springs. This route also provides easy access to the Boiling River, one of two swimming areas in Yellowstone, where “boiling” hot springs water flows into the Yellowstone River.

West Entrance The West Entrance deposits you smack in the center of geyser paradise. As expected, this entrance is also the busiest, but for good reason. Between the Lower, Upper and Midway Geyser Basins you can find as many as 150 geysers in just one square mile on this side of the park. This is also the fastest way to get to Old Faithful and the Grand Prismatic Spring, two of the most popular attractions in Yellowstone.

Northeast Entrance If you want to check out the local wildlife, the Northeast Entrance is the fastest way

Going into my planning, I knew a oneday trip would never allow us to see all that Yellowstone has to offer. So, we de-

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cided to plan our adventure around what Yellowstone is best known for: its geysers! So, we entered the park through the West Entrance which was convenient for us, as it’s a straight shot south down Highway 191 from Big Sky, the city we stayed in. Once we got into the park, which only cost $35 per car and a bit of patience to wait in line, we followed the main road all the way south to our first stop: Old Faithful. This famous tourist attraction is neither the largest nor the most predictable geyser in the park, but it is the largest of the most predictable, earning it the name Old Faithful. It erupts about 20 times per day, and park rangers are able to predict future eruption times quite accurately, give or take 10 minutes. Tired of waiting around in the seating area around the site of the eruption, my siblings and I hiked up Observation Point Trail to an overlook with a clear view of Old Faithful. While we weren’t up close to the action, we were able to take in the eruption and the incredible views far away from the crowd. Though Old Faithful is the main attraction of the Upper Geyser Basin, the basin also boasts hundreds of smaller geothermal pools and geysers that you can tour while waiting for the main event. For me, these pools were just as exciting as Old Faithful; each pool was unique and mesmerizing in its own way. Some were tiny cracks the size of my fist, the boiling water underneath struggling to bubble over on the surface. Others were bright blue ponds tempting me to jump in (the small detail of 160 degree water was the only thing that stopped me). The surface itself is an orange and white swirling mass dotted with yellow sulfur deposits. The only thing that could ruin such a magical experience is perhaps the unfortunate eggy sulfur smell. After we exhausted our stay in the upper basin, we drove back up towards the Midway Geyser Basin, all the while scouring the open fields for distant bison and plumes of steaming geysers. We parked at the base of Fairy Falls Train and started off

on the short hike up to a scenic overlook to take in the gorgeous grand prismatic spring. Stare at the spring long enough and you’ll wonder how such a sight exists on the same planet we call home. The vivid colors and grand scale are otherworldly. We decided to continue further on this trail in search of Fairy Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the park. On paper, a 5-mile there-and-back hike sounded like no problem, but the flat trail and unchanging scenery on either side made for a monotonous and slow journey. Fortunately, just when we thought our conversation had died for good and the subtle pain in our feet became our sole focus, we heard the faint shush of running water in the distance. Almost there! Each step took us faster to the goal, until we were leaping over streams and scaling fallen trees to reach the waterfall. If you dread walking for miles in near-silence then, sure, this hike is probably not for you, but I was gratified enough by the towering waterfall, several very-friendly chipmunks and the refreshing spray of mist blowing in every direction. After we made the long trek back to the car it was already late afternoon, but we decided we couldn’t leave without checking out the Grand Prismatic Spring up close. While the overlook is better for seeing the vibrant colors in their full glory, getting up-close (within a meter of the spring!) was an unbeatable experience. Then, just when we thought there was nothing more to see on the way back out, we had the pleasure of experiencing a true bison traffic jam! It was the perfect end to a perfect day in Yellowstone. Even if you’re not a one-with-nature type, my advice would be to take every opportunity to get out there and explore because there’s so much to be amazed by right here in this country we call home.

Photos by Lili Sarajian, Yellowstone

Fall 2021

Photo by Lindsey Pollack, Yosemite

Photos by Shue Gottschalk, Spain

Souvenirs is a collection of travel and multicultural experiences from students at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Souvenirs’ mission is to provide a platform for students to share lessons they learned while traveling and to provide readers with quality information while inspiring wanderlust.