Catharsis by vaanipujarr

CATHARSIS ISSUE 001 RS. 150

FASHION Weaving threads of hope

INTERVIEW With Leva Lasmane

CULTURE Personality test with Frida Kahlo

FEATURING Gaurav Khanijo

Safar

badaam.co Safarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 19 By Znali Featuring Ivazar

Sydney, Austrailia

Octobre collection 2020

BONSERGENT STUDIO

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Designer Stella Simona creates modern heirlooms pieces that celebrate her Bangladeshi heritage and culture. Haati Chai explores the intimacy of jewellery, taking inspiration from its significance and symbolism in South Asians Familial Traditions.â&#x20AC;?

Feel & Breathe It is more important to click with people than to click the shutter.

Contents

BEAUTY

140

CULTURE

108

LIFESTYLE

FASHION

1111clothing

To make clothes, pattern pieces are cut out of fabric and then stitched together into a finished product. Rather than discarding the fabric leftover from this process- we find an application for each and every assigning value down to the last thread. It reflects deep respect for life and the natural resources engaged to make the fabric: the land it came from, the people - the way they live and all the efforts involved along the journey of transforming cotton to cloth.

CATHARSIS Austerely alluring pages whispers, it is not about some pretty room or eye pleasing outfits but a truer expression of the self, something more meaningful, more, as the marketers now put it, authentic.

Art Director KSHITIZ BANSAL JHANVI DHORDA Editor DIVYA GARG Photography & styling AKSHITA MEHROTRA DIVYA GARG JHANVI DHORDA KSHITIZ BANSAL VAANI PUJAR

Image Editor AKSHITA MEHROTRA

Graphic Designers AKSHITA MEHROTRA DIVYA GARG JHANVI DHORDA KSHITIZ BANSAL VAANI PUJAR

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non - commercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the publisher, addressed“Attention: Permissions Coordinator,” at the address below. Imaginary Press Pearl academy New Delhi Learn.pearlacademy.com Ordering Information: Quantity sales. Special discounts are available on quantity purchases by corporations, associations, and others. For details, contact the publisher at the address above.

Catharsis

CATHARSIS

CONTRIBUTORS

I â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;m a student at Pearl Academy, New Delhi studying Fashion Media Communication. I enjoy doing garment shoots with different perspectives, especially to focus on some alluring designs. This magazine taught me a lot of good things, and one of them is teamwork and how brilliantly everyone in the team did the work. I had a great time by being a part of Catharsis. Creative director VAANI PUJAR

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a student of Fashion Media Communication at Pearl Academy, New Delhi. I believe in learning by doing. This fashion magazine has given me the opportunity to think beyond my limits. Being the Creative Director, I loved doing themes, moodboards and photography for Catharsis. For me, it has been a roller-coaster journey with whole new experiences and adventures. Creative director AKSHITA MEHROTRA

I’m fashion media communication student at Pearl Academy, Mumbai and I’ve always had curious eye for things. Being a part of this magazine has taught me a lot of new things and I look forward to explore more. I enjoy doing product photography and this project gave me a chance to experiment with it. Definitely got to learn a lot from my team members too. Art director JHANVI DHORDA

Currently, I am pursuing Fashion Media Communication as my course at Pearl Academy, New Delhi. I’m a keen learner who loves to do innovations. For this magazine, I’ve given my best to achieve the desired outcomes. I hope you’d enjoy reading Catharsis! Art director KSHITIZ BANSAL

I am born and brought up in Delhi, India. I am a fashion & media student, and I love writing and sharing my thoughts with you all. I have given attention to all the details, before serving it to you, from the styling of the shoots, to the content of the articles. From the bottom of my heart, thank you for reading my articles and following along! Editor DIVYA GARG

MODEL: VERA VAN ERP. PHOTOGRAPHER: DAVID LURASCHI. CREATIVE DIRECTOR: JEAN-BAPTISTE TALBOURDET-NAPOLEONE. STYLIST: CHARLOTTE COLLET SET DESIGNER: GIOVANNA MARTIAL

Editor’s Note Dear reader, Catharsis is not just about some pretty rooms, or eye – pleasing outfits, instead, it’s a truer expression of the self, something more meaningful, more as the marketers now put it; authentic. Our cover story talks about, the relationship between designers and weavers; how designers and underrated brands have come up, to support weavers and their craftsmanship. Indian artisans are resilient to tough times. They are artists in the real sense and will rejig their work, if given a bit of support, by people like us. Above all, it is important now, that we should wear more of handlooms, and not fall prey to “power-looms” that are surreptitiously making their way, into the market. For many of us in self isolation, it can very well feel like the coronavirus has put the entire world on hold. But, a lot of people are using this time to enhance their skillset. People have turned to home cooking to pass their time. For some, taking care of their skin and building on their beauty regimen, helped in indulging oneself in some self – love.

All the photoshoots were done indoors with full precautions, by our team. We believe that people long to understand the world, especially at these anxious times, therefore we are committed to providing them with clarity; facts they can trust and information that they need reported, written, edited and presented with care and precision. We highly believe that people long to create a better world, and so the Catharsis must nurture imagination fresh ideas, trustworthy alternatives, and most importantly a belief that the way things are, is not the way things need to be. Take care, Divya Garg Editor, Catharsis

BEAUTY 28 Beauty on Budget

Pocket-friendly beauty solutions, straight from your kitchen.

34 Face- time

Changes in peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty regimen

44 Why not, men?

Entering the world of makeup

50 From the pocket of nature

Natural skincare and brands that encourage use of natural ingredients.

Beauty on Budget

Catharsis|Beauty

By Akshita Mehrotra

Pocket-friendly beauty solutions, straight from your grandma’s kitchen.

Staying at home shouldn’t become a reason for your skin to lose its allure. Why pay an extravagant amount of money for skincare products that are overrated and contain synthetics you’ve probably never even heard about? Most of the beauty products are packed with chemicals and artificial ingredients that might give temporary results on the skin but will have long term negative effects. But do not worry, try some DIY skincare recipes with basic ingredients available in your kitchen, and give the much-needed pampering to your skin while staying at home. Arushi Sharma, 20 years old, a Delhi-based lifestyle YouTuber says, “After struggling with the problem of acne from the last six months of my life, I recently discovered some easy ways to switch with the organic skincare regime. With natural ingredients and homemade remedies, you can make any DIY mask to wake up your skin and rejuvenate new cells”, she suggests. Homemade organic products work better than most commercial items that are made from artificial ingredients.

Rubal Kapoor, 22 years old, Moradabad, a beauty influencer tells, “It’s hard to believe that I spent years buying the expensive products with fancy ingredients to get rid of my skin problems, and ended up finding DIY skincare recipes from my grandmother’s beauty routine as the solution.” Nowadays, I use a turmeric face mask which possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and hence, help in treating skin problems like pimples, open pores and hyperpigmentation. She further suggests that one can prepare a DIY turmeric face mask with a tablespoon of turmeric added in a half bowl of yoghurt with a few drops of lemon juice. This face pack is good for nourishment and brightening effects. Lockdown isn’t a simple thing to experience, Most of us would agree that accepting it is the best way to overcome all our tensions. “In an ordinary circumstance, you could have headed towards a salon to pamper yourself. However, in this situation, it’s difficult to get such perks”, says Kashish Trehan, a freelance makeup artist, 21 years old, Delhi.

‘Turmeric Details’ Photography by Akshita Mehrotra

Catharsis|Beauty

‘Green tea mud mask’ by Home Remedies

Sandal-wood face pack This face pack is made with the right two cups of sandalwood powder, half cup of ground gram flour and 1/4 of turmeric powder. Add some rose water into it and apply this on the acne-prone areas for 15 to 20 minutes. This is an anti-bacterial pack that naturally brightens up your skin.

Banana hair mask

“Mix one teaspoon of coffee powder with half a teaspoon of cornflour as well as baking soda. Mix all the ingredients with water to make a paste. Apply it under the eyes. Rinse off with lukewarm water after 30 minutes. These DIY recipes give feelings of relaxation similar to that of beauty treatment but in the comfort of your home”, she shares. Natural and homemade beauty remedies for the skin are always better when it comes to making your products.”I am so excited to continue healing my skin and trying more organic DIY recipes. It may require more effort, but it is worth the healthier skin and peace of mind”, says Kapoor

Lockdown can be considered as a boon in disguise. From a good skincare routine to different home remedies, you can follow a proper self-care schedule including yoga, meditation, and exercise without much worry of the hectic work schedule. So, In this time of the pandemic, stay indoors, stay healthy, stay safe and also keep your skin happy with the effective DIY homemade skincare recipes.

This incredible fruit mask is rich in potassium, antioxidants, and vitamins. This hair pack helps in moisturizing your hair, strengthening them and reduces the breakage and split-ends. To make this hair pack, use 2-3 overripe bananas, one tablespoon of honey, and a teaspoon of coconut oil, and olive oil. Blend the ingredients well and put the paste on the scalp for 15-20 mins.

Buttermilk Moisturiser Buttermilk baths are an old fashioned tradition to clean up the skin and lessen the acne scars. It contains lactic acid which gets into the skin and rejuvenates the skin cells. Add a tablespoon of honey into 2 cups of buttermilk for luxurious honey and buttermilk bath.

Natural Olive Oil and Sugar Scrub Create a naturally moisturizing exfoliating scrub using a combination of olive oil and sugar. Combine ½ cup of sugar with 2 tbsp of olive oil. Gently rub the scrub into your skin, and then wash it off. Last, use a soothing moisturizer to lock in the benefits of freshly exfoliated skin.

‘Green tea mud mask’ Photography by Vaani Pujar

Catharsis|Beauty

Face – time By Divya Garg

This lockdown feels like the right opportunity to examine the age old feminist question: when women put on makeup, are they truly just doing it for themselves?

In August 2020, 19 – year – old Anoushka Chhabra talks about how there is an unsaid pressure on women to always look good. She is born and brought up in Delhi. She’s a student of IIHM, Delhi. She is a social media influencer. She loves clicking pictures of herself, ever since she can remember. When asked about the best advice that she has ever received being an influencer, she said, “my mom always taught me to put on a little lipstick, no matter what – advice I hated two years ago. But somewhere along the way, I realized – she was right! I still put on my lipstick in quarantine. It makes me feel human. It brings some normalcy to these abnormal times and instantly lifts my mood, even if I’m just walking to the vegetable vendor”. “My mornings are incomplete without face masking, that’s how much I love it”says Anoushka Chhabra. Photography - Divya Garg

Lipstick is not the only makeup that Anoushka loves putting on her face. Ever since she was five years young, she used to steal her mum’s makeup, and put it on herself, hush – hush. Since then, her love for makeup has only heightened.

“I have always loved wearing makeup, I feel it highlights a lot of my facial features, which otherwise might just go unnoticed. But surprisingly, I feel much happier with my natural appearance these days. I’ve cut down on my foundation. I believed I had an uneven skin tone, but having now not worn any foundation or concealer for over three months (probably the longest I have gone without it in three years) I actually like the way my skin looks. I feel like I’m going to have the confidence to just stop wearing any foundation, once this all is over”, said Anoushka. She added, “It was quite recent, that I started accepting my natural skin. Honestly, I have spent more time scrutinizing and hating my appearance in the lockdown. I was always struggling, between, not doing a full face makeup coverage and trying to make myself look presentable. I still tint my eyebrows, and follow a full 7 step Korean skincare routine”.

Catharsis|Beauty

Anoushka has started to understand, the difference between applying makeup to make your skin look flawless, and accepting your natural skin by following skincare routines in order to take care of it. 20 – year – old, Delhi – based, Vanshika Kohli says, “I really wanted this ‘lockdown period’ to be the time where I’d get slightly comfortable in my own skin, but actually I can’t. Especially not now – It’s kind of depressing”. She continued, “I have, in fact, gotten this whole laser hair removal treatment done on my face, so now, I don’t have to shave my face every other day”. Vanshika is a regular college – going student. She is currently studying a journalism course from Vivekananda Institute of Professional Studies. Her transformation, in terms of wearing makeup, has been huge. From a person – who would not even get her hair cut, and the only makeup she would really wear, would be – an eyeliner – that too only while going out for a party or get together, to a person today – who is wearing full face coverage makeup every single day, even in the lockdown. 36

When asked about her huge transit, from what she was, to how she is today, she said, “It’s not about the products I use, instead, it’s about the way I see myself. In the past, I have seen myself as a pretty vain girl, who never got a chance to express herself. But today, I see myself as a very colourful and vibrant person, and so, that’s why I dress up and look the way I do”. 30 – year – old, Prachi Mittal, who is a housewife in South Delhi, loves wearing makeup as much as not wearing makeup at all. From contouring her face and wearing a sharp winged eyeliner, to just wearing a neutral lip balm and sunscreen – she rocks it all. “I honestly don’t know how I’m going to go back to wearing a bra after this?”, says Prachi. She loves wearing “expensive” makeup. She says she wears it, not because people expect her to look a certain way, but because she loves buying it. She expresses her love for buying good looking makeup products, not because they would do wonders on her skin, but because of its irresistible packaging.

“We all need to take care of our skin’s health, and so, I make sure I do not skin on wearing my sunscreen, even if I am in bed all day”, says Anoushka Chhabra. Photography - Divya Garg

Catharsis|Beauty

Photography and styling by Divya Garg

Prachi said, “As much as I love buying makeup, I don’t mind using it too. But I don’t wear it that much, not because I don’t like it, but because I don’t get that many opportunities of wearing it. I am discontented with my appearance in lockdown, as I have gained excessively. I find all body types beautiful, but I feel heavy and my excess weight is tiring me out. The lack of face – to – face contact with my friends and relatives makes me blue, as well as kills my motivation to get dolled up”.

Following all the tips and tricks, by these renowned makeup artists, has always been a very important ritual of my life. But since lockdown, I love to wear no makeup”, she laughs, “It is the first time I feel beautiful without it. I do not miss my super skinny jeans at all, and I do not want to wear a bra again”.

Shrishti expressed, how her routines have changed completely – all thanks to the lockdown! She said, “I am mostly in my sports clothes now. After my shower, if I am Prachi is very active on social planning to go for a jog, I’ll put on a media. She keeps her profile absunscreen and that’s it. It makes me solutely updated, all the time. She feel much more awake and fresh. loves posing for her pictures, just as For adding a little fun, earlier I used much as she loves being goofy too. to play with my eyeshadows, but She says, “I fail to understand the now I mismatch my clothes, and people who spend 5 hours on wear funky combinations to give themselves to get ready for that it a more festive feel when I run, perfect shot. I think all I’ve learned because life is at a big pause right is that lighting matters the most, now’. and that it is a game changer”. She talked on how nobody can Another social media influencer control what is happening around, – Shrishti Bisht, who is in her final so trying to control whatever little year of college – Ladies Shri Ram, you can, helps a bit. Delhi, says, “I am 19 years old, and I have grown up admiring actresses who look phenomenal all the time. I know it’s unnatural, and that’s why I keep watching these YouTube tutorials all the time.

COCOKNITS Four Corner Bag

By Jhanvi Dhorda

Scientific and natural elements to freshen a hair care brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity.

WHY NOT , MEN?

Catharsis|Beauty

Entering the world of makeup

By Kshitiz Bansal

Cosmetics are intensely related to femininity. But in recent years, there’s been a cultural shift as cosmetic companies have begun focusing on male consumers. The male makeup trend is one aspect to a much bigger phenomenon — the expansion of the online cosmetic industry.

MAC has come up with Genderless makeup line. Brands and influencers are trying to normalise, that men can also wear makeup in their day to day lives, but it is yet to be adapted by the masses, it is still a stigma.

When we asked Yugasha Ratra, a 20-year-old student of Global With YouTube, cosmetics tutorials luxury brand management, based and reviews, have become imin Faridabad, what she thought mensely popular. Over the years, about men wearing makeup in day beauty content on Youtube, got to day life. She says, “If I talk about billions of views. Amongst this fashion models or actors it’s blooming industry, a few men have normal for them to wear makeup in emerged as heavy - hitters. Jeffree their day to day life no one Star — a performer turned makeup questions them or they don’t have master — has over 10 million any kind of embarrassment or YouTube supporters, whereas shame wearing it. But if we talk Patrick Star has over 4 million about general people ( men ), when supporters and 4.5 million they apply makeup people start followers on Instagram And in 2016, accusing them of looking CoverGirl named then 17-year old effeminate. James Charles as there, to begin with, a male ambassador. She further felt, makeup is to enhance your beauty, it can be used If we talk about India, we have to hide marks, scars, spots. If this influencers like Siddharth Batra, gives confidence to an individual Ankush Bahuguna, Jason Arland so what’s the harm. This stigma who create content, related to that makeup is only for women is men’s makeup and skincare. This now being changed, there are many type of content clears the myth that men beauty influencers who are makeup is just for females. Many making content and beautifully cosmetic brands have come up spreading the message that anyone with men’s makeup lines and can wear it. unisex makeup. Like, the Channel has come up with Boys de channel Quoting BBC, in an article puband, lished on 8th February 2019 by the author Bel Jacob says, “Men are no 44

Ankush Bahuguna

Siddharth Batra

Guide to men's makeup 3 makeup products that are easy to apply and carry! Concealers Can cover up acne, wrinkles, and dark circles There are numerous products that can be used in various situations. Foundations Are meant to even out skin tone and can also be used to hide acne or blemishes. They can also help with sun protection and can help sensitive skin. Bronzers Are used to give skin a glow and accentuate certain facial features by making them more jutting.

Boys de Chanel collection Source: Chanel

Catharsis|Beauty

Jason Arland outsiders to make-up. If we go back in history Alexander the Great was a fan, whereas the Picts daubed their faces in blue woad. Wigs and magnificence spots were popular within the court of Louis XIII. But somewhere in the 1800s, somebody chose that real men don’t wear make-up and, after that, when they did, it was in a soul of transgression. Bowie, Prince, and Johnny Depp weren’t attempting to make themselves look great, they were challenging everything we knew around gender, sex, and society." More than our own happiness, we give more importance to what people will think and say about us says Hrithik Bagga, a 20-year-old content creator, based in Delhi. When we asked him about his experience of wearing makeup in regular life he says,” I really like to put makeup, it speaks about me more than me speaking about myself, it’s like an art for me. At first, it did bother me when people were looking at me and cracking jokes behind my back 46

I was usually scared to wear makeup, even at home because of my mom, as she’d be super mad about it because of course, I’m a guy. But she knows that I like this, if it’s speaking something for me way deeper then I don’t see it in any wrong way, I don’t really know why people find it wrong either?” He also said, that a lot of people in his college used to stare at him but he was okay with it, he just got to know it’s just all about perspective, people will always judge you even if you wear makeup or not, they will tease you. Aditya Arora, a 34-year-old businessman, based in Agra says," I think it's weird. But I know that the only reason I think like this is because of the society I was brought up in considers it strange. It's something, that is traditionally only done by women. That's why we relate makeup with women and seeing men doing makeup, it makes them look feminine but things

might change. If it becomes much more common, I'll feel less weird about it.” Male makeup is becoming increasingly popular, but it will take some time for the society to accept the idea of men applying makeup in their regular lives. As slowly and gradually, there is a shift in norms attached with beauty. Cosmetics for men would be more accepted in future, and give them more opportunities for self-expression . Beauty should be about style and personal choices . It should know no gender.

Jason Arland

From the pocket of nature By Jhanvi Dhorda

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Innisfree green tea seed serum and toner a small duo that helps your acne and toner clears your pores.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Photography by Jhanvi Dhorda

Natural skincare and brands that encourage use of natural ingredients. The technical definition of skincare means, a range of practices that support skin integrity, and enhances its appearance. Whereas thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot more to this definition, enhancing the appearance is not enough what it needs is deep nourishment and for it to be hydrated. Natural skin care is something that helps you achieve this very notion. With the use of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ingredients few brands like Body Shop, Innisfree, and Biotique have become very popular in the world of natural skincare. Using ingredients from the pristine island of Jeju, Innisfree a Korean brand, provides you with wide range of products that suits your skin. Orchids, soya bean, bija, and volcanic cluster are among the various other components used by the brand. Body shop, a vegan skincare and makeup brand.

They offer you products that are derived from fruits and natural ingredients like seaweed, green tea. They spread awareness about social issues like sustain ability, sex trafficking, and animal testing through their advertisements and campaigns. Combining science and Ayurveda, Biotique came up with products that were inspired from the ancient sages in India. With the use of ingredients like neem, basil,and aloe vera. Biotique provides 100% naturally made products. The concept of natural skin care has been around for many years, and with the advancement it has been growing and evolving more than ever.

Catharsis|Beauty

Body shop oils of life range, day and night cream smoothens skin texture and gives it a very hydrated and healthy feel. Photography by Jhanvi Dhorda

Timeless Sense ‘Bouquet story’ Photogrpahy by Frida Vega

FASHION 58 Be more with less

An art to strip down a thing, from itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surplus, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential elements.

66 Young designers on the run

Is it tough for the emerging designers to survive in the current fashion market?

SHIFT: From physical to virtual Are virtual fashion shows the future?

78 Cinderella of 2020

Like Cinderella, Sukriti dreamed of going to the ball and dancing with her Prince Charming. But the pandemic spoiled everything.

84 Weaving threads of hope

Weavers and artisans of handlooms have to be given the dignity and recognition that they deserve.

100 Sew Dhaga

Sew your hygiene and make it fashionable.

Lush patchwork and jaw-dropping embroidery

Patchwork single Breasted Cotton Jacket

Catharsis|Fashion

Be more with less By Jhanvi Dhorda

An art to strip down a thing, from it’s surplus, to its essential elements.

Gold jewellery can be paired with any outfit any time of the day it’s always a go to for any stylist Photography by Jhanvi Dhorda

The first thing that probably comes to your mind, after hearing “minimal fashion” is boring. People often think shimmer stands out, they display their wealth through branded clothes and go all out. Though, this thought process has seen to be changing, people have started appreciating minimalism. The concept of minimalism has lingered in the fashion world since the early 90`s when the phrase “less is more” became a guideline, for artists and designers. Minimal in its straightforward way means, keeping it simple with monochromatic colours, simple silhouettes with an occasional pop of colour. Spending the time to find a matching outfit, trying to mix colours and patterns just makes the outfit more complicated. Sometimes we just need to go back to the simplest form, minimalism. One way or another everyone has been a part of this trend, with either a simple white button-down shirt or a cardigan that goes with everything. You can never go wrong with being minimal. There are so many ways you can style you basics making it look like

as if you have put in, a lot of effort, into the outfit. For a day look, you can match it white tennis shoes and for an evening look, you can pair it up with heels. “A good pair of blue denim is essential in everybody’s closet preferably mom jeans they go with everything,” said Janvi Vijan, aged 20, Mumbai-based up-coming stylist.When it comes to accessorizing, even small items can make you look elegant, and put together. According to Sansha Bolar, aged 21, Mumbai-based upcoming stylist, “accessories have gained so much importance these days. I believe that with minimalist clothing one can play around a lot, and that one added element can change your look altogether.” The key to nailing the look is in the details. Pairing the right colours and with layering, you can have your outfit ready in seconds. A minimalist wardrobe, does not just have to be, shades of black and greys. It is a style that can be personalised, and once you start looking at it closely, there`s endless of number of things for you to explore, and experiment with when comes to minimal aesthetics.

Catharsis|Fashion

Five minimal outfits for every occasion All white

“Minimalism is creating beauty from simplicity and finding a way to be unique without being over the top. It is easy to be loud and flashy, but to be able to voice your style and personality in a subdued way is the ultimate skill.” Says Malissa Tayag, marketing manager for Vancouver-based clothing brand Oak + Fort in an interview for Vancouver Sun newspaper, on 14TH June, 2016. When the clothing fits well, personal style becomes transparent. You express yourself through your style, and that’s what minimal clothing helps you to do. “I personally love minimal fashion, it is easy to style and everyone can pull off the outfit. It is and comfortable and classy which is always nice.” Says Vijan. Though there a few upcoming brands that are changing the minimal game. With their new collections and contemporary- approach they are creating simple yet sophisticated looks. Delhi based labels like Bodice Bodice and Lovebird Studio assemble minimal clothes using India’s rich fabric heritage. They focus on clean silhouettes, graceful fluidity, and geometric proportions. 60

Minimal fashion can only be described as “quiet but powerful.” It is a power suit as it is the go-to style. “The key to looking trendy and fashionable while following minimalism is to dress smartly so that your look can be impactful and make heads turn!” says Vairali Nagpal, aged 21, Mumbai-based stylist. In the end we all want a simple clutter-free life. Why not start with our wardrobe, it is a human tendency to simplify things and that is what minimalism is all about.

You can never go wrong with a white outfit paired with golden accessories to add an extra element. A white trouser, white bodysuit and a white jacket will never let you down.

Oh-so classic Blue denims white or black shirt. Layer it with any oversized jacket or coat and boots and you’re good to go.

The neutral pallete Muted tones, monochromatic colours. They always work any season any occasion. Pair of beige pants paired with muted tone T-shirt or bodysuit and gold chain.

Athletic chic Try to incorporate your workout clothes here. Cycling shorts paired with an oversized T-shirt and a fanny pack.

Little black dress A little black strap dress accessorised with a colourful bag and gold or silver jewellery. If you’re feeling more experimental you can also add a layer and make it look more classy.

Source: Pinterest

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication.â&#x20AC;? - Leonardo da Vinci

SixFour Round up of Inspiration

Breathe

Senses

To print with plants on fabric by Vaani Pujar

1 2 3 4

Here is what, Kasvi Singh tells us about printing on fabrics. You don’t really need complicated tools to print the fabric.All you need is just paint, a sponge, and an object you want to print on. You can try to experiment with all plants, as each plant has its own unique structure, shape, and size. Such handmade touch can give a touch to you house and print some cushions, towels, bags or handkerchief. Let the nature surprise you with new shapes and textures.

Collect plants

You can pick any plant like. Look for interesting shapes, that you’d like to get it printed. Use flat plants, as its easier. Try to choose plants, that are sturdy and not too thin. Collect plants of different sizes, to make the print more diversified.

Choose the layouts for your plants

First decide on prints that you’d like to get the plants printed on, if possible start on a paper and then switch to the fabric as it’ll be easy. Play with patterns, try geometrically more layouts accordingly. Place the leaves according to your layout and click a photo, so that you’ll remember where to place them on the fabric.

Paint the leaves

Use a textile paint to print your fabric. If the paint is thick is very thick, make sure you add some water and mix it in a small container. Use a sponge to apply paint onto your plants. The pattern will come out if you print with the underside of the leaves as underside has visible veins which will make your print more detailed.

Print leaves on fabric

Now carefully lay your leaf onto the fabric. First, try practicing on a piece of cloth so that your movement of hands get to know the pressure that you need to print different kinds of plants. Then cover the leaf with a piece of thick paper and press it. Don’t pressure too much, then the pattern will look flat and not textured. When you are done, gently peel up the leaf, without. You can reuse the same leaf as many times as you want. Hand printing is not a perfectionist game, there will be some flaws which makes the print more interesting. Just enjoy the process.

Photography by Kaliko Prints by Kasvi Singh

Young designers on the run

Catharsis|Fashion

Is it tough for the emerging designers to survive in the current fashion market?

By Vaani Pujar

Fashion has become more digital than ever; a lot of designers know, during the lockdown, they’d need to buckle up for new collections and how they want to portray it towards the consumers. More importantly, it is tough for emerging designers who are still making away in this industry, by coming out with the preferences of today’s generation. Furthermore, the market is saturated with pre-existing brands and labels. Sergio Zyman, in his book, “The End of Marketing as We Know It”, defined the essential five goals of marketing as “selling more stuff to more people, more often, for more money more efficiently.”

Massive chaos throughout the globe, facing a loss in all businesses and industries, an economic impact of coronavirus around all the sectors now, be it education to

entertainment, tourism to airlines, or food to fashion. As the brands are trying their best to keep strategizing the market through going live on Instagram. Arnab Chandra, fashion designer, 22-years- old, New Delhi, says, “I feel today’s young designers are way more talented than these luxury brands. If you see many designers start their line of clothing but they hardly succeed. One of the major issues is the financial background, where you need plenty of money to build your production house, pieces of equipment, fashion shows, workspace, advertisements, and marketing.” Young designers are way more creative than those luxury brands. But, they lack business skills and entrepreneurship skills due to which they end up closing their labels and start looking for jobs under those luxury brands.

He also added that for the young designers, they have to keep making fetching designs for the shows and get buyers attention to get recognition. That is how the emerging ones are building up relations, which is very difficult to survive in this fast fashion industry. The industry is full of business games, the more profit you seek, better stability for your brand. The market is controlled by luxury brands, and high street fashion. Some companies are guided by the artisans, designers or craftsmen, who know closely about the consumers on what they seek. Consumers always prefer quality, which lasts long, and some prefer the tags of luxury brands. So, what changed this perspective of fashion? When did it go from established houses to young and upcoming designers?

Photography by Vaani Pujar Concept and illustration by Vaani Pujar

Pakhi Taneja, 19 – years - old, a fashion design student, Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti, Milan, Italy, says, “Being a design student, I follow fashion closely. I try to keep up with all the fashion weeks and as many brands as possible. When I started learning about fashion, my idea of luxury was Louis Vuitton or Gucci, because they were ‘conventional’ luxury.” 67

‘If I make a cashmere sweater without a Louis Vuitton logo on it and then I make one with a logo, the scale of the economics is insanely differrent.’

Catharsis|Fashion

Virgil Abloh System No. 15

Concept ‘Patchwork play’ Brand display

As young designers have to know the backside of the industry, to be successful, and creative with their skills. Pakhi also stated, about the lifestyle of the brands that are existing in the industry for a very long time. She said, that the brands are built on a lifestyle, advertisements mainly focusing on the idea of a society that represents the elite. This gives you a sense that, if you buy from them, you can be a part of it too. Each of these luxury brands has a certain clientele they try to please, thus the same repeated clothing you see. On the other hand, young designers try to come up with newer textiles and techniques to try and reinvent the fashion game. A lot of emerging designers are coming up, and making space in the industry, if they get a chance, they might be the next best of luxury brands. In the fashion market, the cost of luxury fashion is nonsensical. As Pakhi, personally, feels that young, and upcoming brands, give a sense of true luxury, that a lot of people don’t know about. It gives you an edge over designers like Gucci or Balenciaga, which now feels like of the runway mass production that anybody can buy. The idea of owning something unique, and sort

of one of a kind pieces, is the definition of true luxury for her. Quoting system magazine as Nadine Peters, London, said in an interview, online on Instagram live, on 14th March 2018, “I think a problem with fashion today, is that everyone feels they can do it. It’s not a problem within fashion but a problem in terms of how people see fashion from the outside. Some people believe, they can easily create a brand, or set up a fashion business, although they come from a non-fashion background. They have a love for clothing but don’t understand what goes into it. Fashion is a business, it’s about generating money, giving a new direction in society, and it is about creativity.” Today fashion has become a megatrend amongst people, huge mass is working in this industry and it’s hard to even stand out or survive in the world of the fashion industry.

Forces of Attraction Final Major Project

Louise Nutt

Moment of Contact- Sketchbook- Oct 2013

Louise Nutt

Catharsis|Fashion

SHIFT : From physical to virtual Are virtual fashion shows By Kshitiz Bansal

the future?

With digital presentations poised to become the next big industry trend, we spoke to Lakshmi Rana, a Model-based in Gurugram about what she thinks about the whole shift from fashion shows to Fashion films and what difference does she feels there is between the two? she says, ''For a model, it's a tough job. A show is now like a full-fledged shoot. Longer working hours, many retakes which makes it very tiring. But most of all it lacks the The fashion cycle already spins at excitement and glamour of a live such a frenetic pace, that the industry has become pretty good at ramp”. She says that she misses the adapting to novelty whether it be to backstage madness, and the high of being in glory in front of a large the season’s latest trends or some audience. of the aforementioned disruptors. From Tokyo and Shanghai With the world going increasingly Fashion Weeks, London Fashion digital, Lakshmi believes that even Week Men’s, runway shows across though things will get back to the globe happened virtually in normal, fashion shows will still response to the coronavirus outbreak. follow more of a digital format because of attention to details and perhaps a better reach. The coronavirus pandemic has disrupted the fashion industry, in a manner that is completely unprecedented in recent history. The virus brought along international lockdowns, social distancing orders, and a global economy in peril. It also brought the fashion industry from garment production to garment consumption to a screeching halt.

The first ever phygital edition of FDCI’s #LMIFWSS21 opened with designer Rajesh Pratap Singh.

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‘The collection is about contemporary edit with bright pastel hues and an extensive use of hand block printing techniques.’ By Designer Rajesh Singh Pratap

Quoting Falguni Shane peacock, from an interview given on Swirlster, Titled India Couture week: Digital fashion shows take over the runway published on September 22, 2020 , "The good thing about unveiling our collection via a fashion film, is that we will be able to reach out to a wider audience across the world, as compared to a physical fashion show. It's more of a disruptive and democratic format. People who may not have had access to fashion weeks, will now be able to see the collections through a lens of curiosity and excitement. However, we will miss the excitement, the adrenalin rush, the post-show cheers, the hugs, and of course, meeting our clients and guests.” Fashion weeks going virtual has its struggle and a very different approach. More efforts are put into videography, styling, set designing and it is time-consuming also. Fewer models are being hired as its not a continuous show where one model can have only 1-2 changes.

When we asked Muskaan Ratra, a 20-year-old pursuing Global Luxury Brand Management student from Pearl Academy based in Delhi about what she thinks about Fashion week going virtual, she says, "Virtual shows have become a new trend and also the need of the situation amidst the pandemic. It has taken away the larger than life experience of sitting in a show watching models walk in the new collection with utter grace. Without a doubt, it has expanded the reach for brands showcasing it to a larger audience, with no time boundation with people expecting a greater level of creativity. She further mentions that it has become more difficult for brands, to stand out with so many videos and content coming out, there is a new level of competition for each one of them; to create something distinctive and impactful which stays with the viewers. No matter what, nothing can steal the excitement of a physical fashion show, which gives you a chance to meet people with similar interests and appreciate the brand's aesthetics and aura created.

As virtual shows have become a new normal. Even when we will pass the pandemic, making a fashion film will be something that will continue. In the future, we will experience both charms of a fashion show with virtual creative content depicting the whole mood and concept, and reaching a large number of audience. Both will coexist so as to get the best of both worlds.

Showstopper Shraddha Kapoor in the finale moment of FDCIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s India Couture Week 2020 with Falguni Shane Peacock

Cinderella of 2020 By Divya Garg

Like Cinderella, Sukriti dreamed of going to the ball and dancing with her Prince Charming. But the pandemic spoiled everything.

All dressed up but nowhere to go. Photography & styling Divya Garg. Model - sukriti

In August 2020, 21 – year – old Sukriti, student of Jesus and Mary College, Delhi, sitting in her room, stares at the white dress hanging in her bedroom since March. She commiserates with her classmates, through her phone, on how they all are facing an uncertain future during the pandemic. The college farewell – every student’s right – usually held before graduation, is an event which can be as elaborate and happening as a wedding; with dresses bought months in advance, appointments booked to fix hair and makeup, and event organizers hired to get the party going. But these plans have been dashed for many of the seniors of 2020. Sukriti and her classmates decided to have a virtual party and conduct a photo shoot at home. “It was a relief to not feel the constant sadness on not having a farewell. With each of us doing our photo shoots at home, it was a symbol of lifting each other by conveying that we’re going through it too”, she said.

When asked about how her days have been passing by in this quarantine, she said, “Getting through these dull hours by exercising, baking, blogging, and ofcourse, chat ting! Everyday feels like a Sunday. It’s like Sunday has completely lost its significance”. Her glamorous outfit was fit for a pre – coronavirus world, but instead of heading to a party, she spent some quality time with herself in her room. She said, “the fact that I got dolled up for myself, was the best thing that I could’ve done to bring a sense of normalcy, in these anxious times of quarantine”. For people like Sukriti, getting dressed up everyday, despite being stuck inside, is a part of their identity. Before the pandemic, clothing was a big part of millions of lives; a way in which, they all could express themselves.

Catharsis|Fashion

Illustration by Divya Garg

“The feeling of lack of control on life, always gives me anxiety. Accepting that yes, there are things we can’t always control, is undoubtedly helpful, but at least controlling what we can, such as getting dressed, provides a sense of control” said Sukriti.

Since lockdown, many people are letting go of their past grooming behaviors and habits, and embracing how they look without false lashes, nail extensions, and the list is just never ending. Many say that they feel liberated, and may not go back to their past looks.

She believes that mood and clothing are interconnected, one’s appearance is mainly made up of their clothing (unless you’re naked), therefore, clothes decide our first impression on others. Amidst lockdown, the self – expression of clothing has been, somewhat, lost to the monotony of pajamas and T – shirts.

Sukriti added “Getting dressed up in the morning motivates me to get up and start the day – as does coffee. I do ask myself at times that why am I doing it, or, for whom am I doing it? But then I push myself to hop into my favourite joggers and hoodie – as it is the only thing that can get me out of my bed”.

Sukriti said, “Not being able to go out, with no one to impress – I find no reason to dress up everyday. I am having a hard time struggling with the reality of quarantine; still figuring out ways to keep my spirit motivated, and mood lifted”. 80

For many like Sukriti, dressing up has not only reinvigorated them during a time where there is so little to look forward to, but also grounded their sense of normalcy.

Denim limited EDT no.52 Completed a #decadeoflove, as a part of the year long celebration, created 50 limited edition jackets using various textiles and surface techniques from all the previous 20 seasons. Displayed on hand twisted wireforms sculpted by the skilled artisans from West Bengal.

Weaving threads of hope By Akshita Mehrotra

Weavers and artisans of handlooms have to be given the dignity and recognition that they deserve. India is home to more than a billion people, a land of diverse cultures, languages and many more. Similarly, it is privileged with rich traditions, textiles and artworks. Textiles and Handlooms are an integral part of Indian culture, and no festival or occasion is complete without them.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cotton Factory in keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Photography By Akshita Mehrotra

Weavers and Designers are very deeply linked to the heritage of the craft and are still working with very traditional designs to protect and promote the Indian handlooms. Rahul Mishra, Tarun Tahiliani, Payal Khandwala and Anita Dongre â&#x20AC;&#x201D; throw up simple monochrome boxes, most displaying statements in support of the #HandMadeinIndia and #VocalforLocal movements in the country.

Designers like Gaurang Shah, Ritu Kumar, Sunita Shanker, Pratima Pandey are busy weaving a tale of pride and beauty nestled in their firm faith for all that's home-grown. At the heart of their love for handloom lies a certain passion to revive most of these forgotten arts and also, a will to help the Indian artisanal communities survive. The plus point of designers stepping into handlooms and textiles was to create innovations with handwoven fabric in western wear. Previously, the handloom section was restricted to only sarees and ethnic wear. The designers realised the value of Indian weaves and introduced new motifs, prints to be incorporated besides the traditional ones, which have brought in a lot of diversity to the attires. 85

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Delhi - based Fashion Designer, Gaurav Khanijo’s first design inspiration came from his immigrant grandfather who would always adorn custom-made clothes. His fashion label ‘Khanijo’ is an ode to a time when personal style reflected craftsmanship and culture."I believe in taking artisanal traditions forward and creating contemporary clothing rooted in diverse cultures. I create fabrics filled with an abundance of colours and textures, using indigenous weaves and hand-woven technique," he says. Weaving the fabric is a complex process and requires proper training. It sustains the life of many families in small and large towns. Nowadays, the art of weaving is largely declining. The family of weavers are from vulnerable and weaker sections, who have been continuing the legacy of traditional crafts. They weave for their livelihood and also contribute to the production in the textile sector.

Quoting the Hindustan Times, in an article published on May 14, 2015, titled "The art of weaving: A signature of India we need to protect, write Ritu Kumar, exclaimed, "Textiles are the biggest employment generator in India after agriculture. Though the share of handloom in production is only 11% and the revenue of the sector is just Rs 2,812 crore, it employs 4.4 million weaver-families. The sector also employs women in poorer areas. Women who initially used to only spin yarn have taken up weaving and form a unique, potentially rich, eco-friendly cottage industry. The livelihoods of our weavers are an endangered part of our textile heritage and in recent years several weavers have committed suicide."

Chalk Pink Unitive Co-ords (Jacket) Photography by Vaani Pujar

With this collection, we intend to respect khadi in its respectful place as the fabric of the future, Just as Gandhi envisioned. Chalk Pink Printed Unisex Jacket in handwoven cotton khadi is inspired by matrix codes. These 12 religious symbols are printed in harmony and cut into a classic tracksuit with comfort fit with extra pockets. How and where you wear it is all up to you. It inculcates a strong statement of “Oneness.”

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‘Handloom Machine, Weaving the threads’ Source : Pinterest

Noopur Chaturvedi, the founder of Hathkala, a brand from Chhatarpur, Madhya Pradesh, says, "I have always been fascinated and smitten by handloom Chanderi, Khadi, Maheshwari and Mashru sarees. I feel there is always a story woven along with those fabrics. Every day, I discover something new and unique about the designs and fabrics. All the sarees that you see on our Instagram handle, are mostly made up of Chanderi, Khadi and Organic Cotton, and it usually takes 4-5 days for the weavers to complete a saree which costs from Rs. 2,250 to Rs. 12,000 (approx)", she adds.

‘A thread story’ Photography by Vaani Pujar

Weaving is a combination of creativity, which requires focus, concentration, and patience. The hand woven fabrics have personalised warmth, which directly shows the strong connection of love and hope between the weavers and handloom.

Innovation in terms of design and colours are happening in the sector of fashion. So there is more choice for people, those who are opting to wear handlooms, in a contemporary style these days. "Khadi is the 'fabric of freedom", says Khanijo. We aim to represent khadi as the fabric of the future and sustainability. The collection is a tribute to the weavers and craftspeople of India. It is the fabric of many possibilities and the onus is on to introduce its potentiality to the next generation.“True aesthetic transcends the exterior; it is an expression of one’s identity, one’s beliefs, and one’s purpose. That is how I define good design. It’s not just about a unique ‘look’. It’s in creating harmony with the environment. It’s in fabrics that breathe and move with the skin,” he says.

‘Cotton spinning’ by a weaver in Kerela. Photography by Akshita Mehrotra

All the weavers, artisans, craftsmen are the backbones of the textile sector. As the entire world was shaken by the deadly virus, and the lockdown is slowly being lifted yet, the fear of pandemic continues to rise. Most of the handloom weavers belong to rural areas, where they are not privileged with quality of education. Many of them don't even know about other skills except weaving. The handloom sector has, too, been severely affected like all other sectors in the economy. "Handloom has been a part of our country since ages'', says, Mrinalini, founder of Original Weavings, Singapore. She further says that the number of orders has reduced, which in turn decreased the daily income of the weavers. The demand went down and the stock made for the market just piled up. Seeing the current scenario, when the handloom sector is limping on the road to revival, there is also no assurance that the textile industries will kick start right away. But many designers and brands are trying to focus on bringing protection for the weavers and handlooms.

The fashion industry too, like other sectors, has faced a terrible hit. One of the biggest areas that bring business to the industry is weddings. In the absence of big events and postponement of wedding festivities due to restrictions on large gatherings. Weavers, artisans, and workers have also been badly affected due to unemployment. At present, I am working with more than 4-6 weavers from different parts of the country, says Sushmitha kumari, 25 years old, works as a fashion designer at TULA, Chennai. "I feel, their work is magnificent and no one can do it with such precision. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so important to give them all the credit that they deserve. So, there is still hope for our handloom industry to survive. We pay all the weavers on time. We don't buy their skills on credit. believe they should be paid for their services. We never stop them from working with other people, as most designers do. We want them to get as much as they can get for their hard work", she shares.

Catharsis|Fashion

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Silk is a naturally occurring protein fibre produced by mulberry silkworm used for textile production. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; Model - Tanvi Singh Photography Akshita Mehrotra

Quoting the New Indian Express, in an article published on 29 May 2020, titled "In-depth: India’s top designers tell us how fashion could emerge even more responsible post-pandemic", writer Rebbeca Vargese exclaimed, "The pandemic has taught us two lessons. One, need-based solutions will always be prioritised over luxury items. And second, with unemployed skill moving back to the villages, we have understood the true cost of fashion and who it affects.” Working on a necessity-driven module, the Kochi-based label, Rouka, has engaged with local weaving clusters to create approved-PPE masks to generate employment. We, as people of India, have a huge role to play to protect this rich heritage of textiles and handlooms. The art of weaving is now close to an extension and the weavers find it hard to survive.

Catharsis|Fashion

We can take it as a fundamental duty, to promote the local and underrated brands over multinational ones. The intricate hand-woven designs should be popularised, more than the factory-made clothes. The industry needs support by those who commission handloom textiles for high-quality work that cannot be easily replicated by mechanised systems. This prosperous legacy deserves a chance in the competitive market. If we observe handloom businesses across the country, we will be able to see that it is a good business proposition. There is no decrease in demand for pure handlooms, at the international as well as national level. No other country in the world can meet this demand.

Rahul Misra Rahul’s work heavily revolves around indigenous weaves and traditional fabrics, Banarasi silk, Chanderi, Daraz work, and Kerala’s cotton handloom cloth being the major ones. For his Lakme Fashion Week debut, he used the Kerala handloom fabric to make dresses and trousers that could be worn inside out. He is known for experimenting with Chanderi, Khadi, and Ikat for his haute couture creations. Gaurang Shah Fashion designer and textile revivalist Gaurang Shah is known for putting unique spins to traditional weaves. He works with several textiles including Kanchi-Kalamkari, Khadi-Kanchi, Organza-Kanch, Tussar-Kanchi, and Patan Patola. The first Indian designer to showcase Kanjeevarams at a national level, he is also widely known for his revival of the Jamdani weaver community. Madhu Jain Back in 1996, Madhu Jain reintroduced the Dhaka Muslin to India, a delicate weave that we had otherwise lost to partition. A textile conversationalist, she is known for revamping various Indian weaves and coming up with unique blends like the Uzbek-inspired Ikat. As a revivalist, she also aims to popularise bamboo as a textile in the country. Abraham & Thakore Known for their work in handloom, Abraham & Thakore experiment with many Indian textiles including Mangalgiri, Jamdani, and Banarasi brocades. However, it is the black and white Ikat design that happens to be their signature style. Right from Gujarat’s Patan Patola and its double Ikat to Odisha’s unique Ikat, the duo has played a huge part in popularising this resist dyeing technique. Ritu Kumar One of the pioneers behind the Indian handloom industry’s revival, Ritu Kumar is known for her work in Matka silk, handwoven Bhagalpuri fabrics, and hand-block printing. She came out with her ‘Banaras Revival Project’ in 2016 intending to explore the endangered art of silk and cotton weaving in Varanasi.

Unisex Cushion Shirt Photography by Vaani Pujar Picked up from the couch, this cushion inspired shirt is made in cotton with leftover frayed texture done in plaids. With droopy shoulders, multi-pockets and oversized fit this shirt is as good as walking with an extra cushion. Stay at ease, stay home, share and wear!

“

Slow fashion is certainly on the rise but we still have a long way to go and the change in archaic fashion traditions won’t be a simple,linear process. It’s beautiful to see the communities that have grown out of social platforms. We leverage each others support and help each other learn new values as consumers. I am excited and hopeful to see what that brings.

”

Words by Zain Ali An Art Director Based between Lahore, Pakistan, and London

Philosophy of slow and sustainable practices jewellery.

Takes inspiration from nature and architectural design, with each piece carrying a glimpse of Aacuteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature individuality.

Catharsis|Fashion

Art never responds to the wish to make it democratic; it is not for everybody it is only for those who are willing to undergo the effort needed to understand it.

‘SEW DHAGA’ By Akshita Mehrotra

Sew your hygiene and make it fashionable. The tale of embroidery is the story of the world and has been with us from the time immemorial. Embroidery exists in every population throughout the globe in some form or the other. Whether it is displayed on clothing, home goods, or as an artwork, it’s a priceless craft that has been an integral part of all cultures.

“Let’s revive the art of long lost embroidery ”Akshita Mehrotra Photography & Embroidery by Akshita Mehrotra

In the time of the pandemic, a face-mask has become a ticket required to step outside your home, which can not be replaced or ignored. In the last six months, masks have also evolved along with the deadly coronavirus. As, they can now be seen not only as a preventive measure, but also as a fashion statement to many individuals. Starting from, the plane white N-95s or sky-blue surgical ones, masks are now sold in all colours, and designs produced by all major fashion brands.

Gucci, Prada, Channel, etc. have all flooded the markets, with their expensive designer masks, and are attracting most of the elite class. But in this lockdown period, we also saw many people, making their own beautiful embroidered face-masks. They added some personalised motifs, as a way to express their feelings and emotions. In the period of depression and anxiety, people with some basic knowledge of embroidery or interests, took up the opportunity as a get-away, to showcase their creativity.

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LIFESTYLE 108

Yoga to the rescue this Quarantine Yoga is the journey of the self, through the self, to the self.

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Buy less, but better Ethical and sustainable shopping have seen a boost in conversation since the outbreak began.

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Beating the lockdown blues Rediscover your home and make it a safe bubble for yourself.

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A plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the world Plants are so unlike people that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s difficult for us to appreciate their complexity and

Catharsis|Lifestyle

Coronavirus diaries : A letter to my post pandemic self

“Call your grandpa for no reason, keep video calling him, see his face”

By Divya Garg

Dear future me, Say thank you to your salon didi and mean it. Do not miss a single opportunity to celebrate how this world is full of people performing underappreciated tasks, soundlessly, every single day. If theatre has revived, please go, and every now and again look around you; those people sitting so close to one another, sitting together as a collective and watching the movies, marvel at how magical that it! Don’t ever dare to say something as idiotic as, “oh, wouldn’t it be nice to have one day like that again, the entire world on pause?”. If you miss things like – privacy, self – 108

pampering time, relaxation, extra sleep – then you better figure out ways to replicate it. Keep listening to new music on YouTube. Stay connected to your friends, keep sharing memes with them, as much as you did. Keep video calling your grandpa, look at his face. Populate your life, not just with materialistic things that you can order anytime, anywhere, but with experiences. Enjoy variety, do not forget how life has become bland, like a bowl of rice with no curry. Surround yourself with your loved ones, they all bring different flavors in your life – appreciate them, remember them.

Illustration By Divya Garg

I know you cherished the time spent with your family during lockdown, rediscovering the joys of playing Uno, scrabble matches and engaging workouts with your mum in the evening. Make sure this spirit continues. Keep organizing those virtual Tambola nights with your extended family and friends, just like you used to. Do not forget, how you promised to not take for granted the opportunity to sit face to face with your boyfriend, and how you committed to keep your phone away, when you are with them.

your dance classes, and bagged a few more gossip sessions with your girls at your favourite ice tea point. In rediscovering old videos, having more meals together with your parents, you created some lovely new memories. But then the guilt resurfaces: so many people are isolated at home, fighting all alone with their anxiety issues, or trapped in abusive relationships.

I am very well aware of how much you love going for your spa appointments, but hey, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget how the DIY home remedies that you learnt and tried in the lockdown, like the coffee scrub, the banana hair mask and the avocado face pack are no less.

There was a time when you couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t venture any further than two kilometers from your house door. There was a time when, if you wanted to do something, that thing basically could not be anything more than just going for a walk in the park. I think you should try to always remember it, how great everything was, and how much pleasure there still was in your life, even when its radius was only two kilometers.

Have you started shaking hands yet? I expect youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still watchful of travelling, but please tell me you have managed to get back to taking

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I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be needing that plastic bag

Cooking light : By Marcus Nilsson

I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be needing that plastic bag

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Yoga to the rescue this quarantine by Kshitiz Bansal

“Yoga is the journey of the self, through the self, to the self.” - The Bhagavad Gita

The COVID-19 pandemic has hit the world very outrageously. Everyone has been affected by it in one way or the other. The restricted travel, panic over the risk of infection and continuous flow of negative news are all adding to growing anxiety. Besides staying connected to family and friends, and maintaining a healthy lifestyle, there is also one other thing that can help keep anxiety and mental health in check- Yoga. Yoga is best suited for this quarantine period. Practicing a few simple yoga asanas is an easy option to prepare one’s body to fight against coronavirus. Many doctors have recommended it as it helps in reducing stress

and keeping the mind, body and soul at peace. People have joined online classes or watch various YouTube videos to learn yoga. One of the best online yoga classes is Glo which helps one become the zen human he/she was destined to be. Many YouTube channels also offer videos which are free of cost. Few of the top YouTube channels for yoga are: Yoga with Adriene, shilpa’s Yoga, Fit Tuber, Boho Beautiful, PsycheTruth, etc. One should cultivate the habit of practicing yoga daily as even 20 minutes of yoga a day can help immensely in overcoming stress and anxiety. 113

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Photography by Kshitiz Bansal

Immunity booster drink DIY By Kshitiz Bansal

Magical Turmeric (Turmeric tea)

Immunitea (immune booster tea)

• • • • • •

• •

3 cups of water. 1 tablespoon turmeric powder or freshly grated turmeric. 2 tablespoon honey. 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice. Few pinches freshly ground black pepper. ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon.

1.5 cup of water 1/4 tsp grated ginger (fresh, preferably organic) 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon (or sub with 1/2 inch piece of a cinnamon stick) 1 clove 2 pinches freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp dried Indian basil leaves (preferably sub with 1 tsp fresh Indian basil leaves) 1 tsp honey 1/4 fresh lemon

Good night milk (Golden milk) • • • • • • • • •

1 mug Milk 6 to 8 soaked almonds 1 tablespoon honey 1 spoon freshly grated turmeric or ½ spoon turmeric powder ½ spoon freshly grated ginger 2 pinches of black pepper powder ½ spoon cinnamon powder or 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves (laung) 2 pinches of cardamom powder or 2 cardamoms

Good night milk

Turmeric tea

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Buy less, Buy betterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; By Akshita Mehrotra

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Ethical and sustainable shopping have seen a boost in conversation since the outbreak began.

Illustration by Akshita Mehrotra

With the worldwide economy being gravely hit, in the wake of Covid-19, cutting down luxury and embracing the new normal, seems to be the only priority on everyone's mind. Due to coronavirus, certain changes have been observed in the shopping pattern of consumers. Shoppers belonging to various classifications, age groups, and incomes level, shifted their preferences from non-mandatory to mandatory. At a time, where the conversation around fashion is shifting towards more sustainable viewpoints. Buying clothing that is high quality and built to last, there’s more reason than ever to repeat your favourite looks. As a result, consumers are going to look for brands that can trust and pay attention to the products, which will be considered essential by them.

Quoting The Hindustan Times, in an article Is revenge shopping a post-pandemic myth, published on April 27, 2020, Designer Nimish Shah says, “You can buy a dress, but where will you go wearing it? The new money customer will be very sceptical post-pandemic. Currently, everyone is deprived of eating out, salons, and bars. These categories will pick up momentum first and fashion will come much later. People will shop sensitively, they will first see if a product is great and the price is safe. Also, there will be a shift in the mindset and people may not shop for high street brands, but support indigenous homegrown labels. I see luxury customers waiting for a big chunk of discount on designer products. They’ll buy one bag and not five”, he adds.

Shubhangini Gupta,27 years old, Mumbai, works as a fashion stylist says, "I would prioritise buying something, which I will be in a desperate need of. I will ensure that the price is not sky-high. Almost everyone is hurt financially in this pandemic. I feel, the majority of the population will prioritise money over the product, before making any purchases. Moreover, repeating pieces is cool today with fashion sets making a noise about embracing”, she adds.

In the pandemic’s time, most of the fashion influencers and celebrities revisited their closets, and re-discovered the multiple outfits, which they’ve collected over the years. This can be the new potential trending idea in the fashion industry. In the current scenario, where most of the people are stuck at home, we can see some fashion enthusiasts and designers come up with, great and easy DIY remodeling ideas for the old outfits, which can shoot up to be #1 on trending. 119

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Illustration by Akshita Mehrotra

"Buy Less,Wear More," says Divyanshi Tyagi, a Delhi - based fashion designer, 25 years old. "I believe old outfits might have certain elements that can be transformed beautifully into contemporary fashion. I love discovering old silk sarees from my mother's closet.” She further suggests, the festive season is around the corner, it's not mandatory to buy expensive outfits and jewellery pieces. One can look gorgeous in the old traditional saree paired up, with a nice piece of a choker.

Consequently, shopping will be need-based as Indians are inherently sensible buyers and never been influenced by the luxury market."I don’t think the shopping scenario is going to change drastically. However, I feel that people will learn a lesson on living, on a bare minimum and avoid consumerism at all levels. Watching a brand new dress, or suit, hanging in the cupboard, all through the lockdown period, is surely going to develop an instinct of purchasing, the necessary stuff,” says Gupta.

With an increasing number of employees working from home, it is likely that fashion will become more casual. People will mostly shop online to avoid the cost of travelling and time. The new normal for future shopping is going to be extensive online shopping. A fashion designing student, Ramneek Bhalla, studying in Parsons School of Design, New York, the 21 years old says, "I have never been a fan of shopping online, as I could not get the experience of touching the fabric, and trying the outfits on to see if it fits properly. Because of the pandemic things have changed, I feel brands will need to showcase the collection through virtual step-ups,”she adds.

Indeed, you can’t make clothes last forever. Everything has an expiration date. So,to shop gradually and deliberately, is to purchase less pick well invested in quality items.However, it’s possible to support ethical and sustainable brands and designers, and it’s possible to take care of clothing, recycle it effectively and look good without feeling guilty. If something can’t be recycled or reused but is still in good condition, drop it off at a charity home or take it to a thrift shop. What’s important when opting for slow fashion over fast fashion is being mindful and doing the best you can do.

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Adoring the irregularities and imperfections, of the designs that are always alive and real. The designers arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afraid to mix the various styles, textures and prints in their designs. The reason why work of Pierce & Ward stands out from the crowd.

Photography by Vaani Pujar

TIPS FOR CLUTTER FREE HOME

As we clean our home office, be sure to keep the things you use most within reach. We all want to have a house that is clean, where everything has it’s own place. Someone said on Twitter, “clutter does not only refer to things in your home, it’s anything that is stopping you from getting the life you want.”

Implement your daily routines (start cleaning the place where you think the mess is more, after each meal you can clean the kitchen, put your items back to their place), some weekly routines that you can follow (changing sheets, dusting and vacuuming) and seasonal routines (closet organising, switch out your clothing according to seasons) and Here are some tips for clutter free home if you stick to this schedule, you’d have a that will help you organise your place. better peace of mind and would love to Some cleanings and organising tasks are sit back at home and enjoy doing work easy. with a relaxed mind.

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Beating the lockdown blues By Jhanvi Dhorda

Rediscover your home and make it a safe bubble for yourself.

The pandemic has changed our relationship with our homes. It is no longer just a place, to rest our weary heads at the end of the day. We have transformed the space into multi-purpose rooms, like gyms, classrooms, workspaces, and offices. Being restricted to our home, it forced us to look at it from a different perspective, and scrutinise every bit of it. Being boxed in a room can be overwhelming, it can affect your thinking, creativity, and your overall working capacity. Which is why the colour, mood, and the framework of the room matters a lot. Hence by making small changes in your surroundings, can create a huge impact on your ability to work. No one wants boring workspaces, everyone is looking for ways to upgrade it. From painting the walls to revamping their floors. Being confined at home, people have started giving their homes top priority and spending on items that make their lives easier.

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Quoting Business Today, in an article published on 16th September 2020, titled “Furniture demand grows in COVID-19 era; Pepperfry, Godrej Interio see tailwinds”, writer Ajita Shashidar, exclaimed,

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In a recent report by the Retailers Association of India, says that the furniture industry is experiencing winds of revival. Compared to industries such as apparel and beauty retail, which are experiencing a de-growth of 70 percent, whereas the de-growth in furniture retail has been in the region of 40 percent. E-commerce furniture brand Pepperfry, also claimed that the demand for tables and chairs have increased by 175%.”

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Though many people prefer re-decorating, but creating a dedicated workspace does not only mean cleaning and re-arranging. It is about routing positive energy and creating a safe bubble for yourself. Samruddhi Kopade, 21 years - old, Mumbai-based interior design student says, “the simplest thing to do right now is to declutter. Therapeutic decluttering gives you a sense of satisfaction which increases your capacity to work.”

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In this confusing time, we are all looking for comfort. To avoid this confusion, you should personalise your room or workspace. You don’t have to purchase any fancy pieces, you can simply refurbish your old furniture. Even upcycle your old mugs, create small paintings, or even add throw pillows. “If you have an empty wall, you can hang up a pinboard”, says Samruddhi. Having a pinboard, helps you to have a clear goal. Make a vision board, a To-Do list for the day, and pin it. Not only does it make the space personalised, but it gives you a head start for the day, makes you feel motivated, and productive. There a lot of elements that come into play, having a spot where you get enough sunlight, and creating your work station there can enhance your mood. “Lighting plays a crucial role, and you shouldn’t underestimate its importance. Trying to work in a dark, dull room will only make you inefficient,” added Samruddhi.

People are taking the work from aspect seriously, and doing everything in their control to make it efficient. The idea of having a comforting space differs from person to person. Some prefer having a green corner, which is decorating it with plants and leaves. Some prefer lighting candles and incense sticks to make the space smell good. We no longer can make out the difference between bedroom, living room, or working room. According to Samruddhi it is important that we create different spaces for different activities. ”We need new ways to adapt to the new normal. Set boundaries when It comes to working in a particular space,” she added. In a nutshell, our house isn’t a place to sleep and eat anymore, it is more than that. Business of Fashion, in an article published on 18th August 2020, titled “The pandemic changed the way people live. How will Fashion Adapt?”, writer Cathaleen Chen, wrote, ”It’s not about that super expensive handbag anymore, it’s, “My dresser is bothering me, maybe I’ll buy a new one.” This is the perfect time to revamp your interiors and focus on what you really want. Lockdown may just have been the blessing in disguise we needed.

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Cyanotype images of bottles and flowers stitched into a book made of teastained layout paper.

Cyanotypes of old broken bottles found in the garden.

ASPINAL OF LONDON

The Secret Garden

Inspired by Frances Hodgson Burnettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Novel

Photography: Baurjan Bismildin Styling, set-design, producer: Assel Abilkhamit MUAH: Anny Wond Team Flowers: La Flore Plants: Plants Gallery Location: Aurora Space Clothes: SAKS Fifth Avenue Model: Indira Ikhsan

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Plants are so unlike people that it’s difficult for us to appreciate their complexity and sophistication.

A Plant’s eye view of the world by Vaani Pujar

People nowadays have been turning their homes into green sanctuaries. Some like growing giant leaves, some like to keep their cacti in pretty little pots. During the lockdown, no wonder we all were disquiet by the fact that we will have to work from home and we started taking up new hobbies. Day by day we started to grow plants at home so that we feel refreshed. We tried out new things, started with a book about “The Botany of Desire” by Michael Pollan to growing potatoes at home to making our homes look prepossessing.

‘Let the plants speak’ Photography by Vaani Pujar

Plants are nature’s alchemists. We realise how houseplants interact with your indoor environment, which can make you more aware of their needs as a plant parent. Plants are such an expert at transforming water, soil and sunlight which makes them extraordinary. It’s absorbing when you get to know that your plant is older than you.

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“You know those plants that are always trying to find the light? Maybe they were planted in a location that didn’t necessarily facilitate growth, but inexplicably they make a circuitous route to not only survive but bloom into a beautiful plant. That was me my whole life.” Jonathan Van Ness, Over the Top: A Raw Journey to Self-Love ‘A plant story’ Photography by Vaani Pujar

EAU DE PARFUM NEROLI NEGRO

CULTURE 140

Against the odds Put your new callings to test this lockdown

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Ribbon around a bomb An artist who experienced life so differently from most of us.

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Becoming a material person during the lockdown The better your technique, the more impossible your standards.

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Reality bites Covid-19 has transformed the way we cook and eat. Have we fixed our relationship for good?

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Against the Odds

Put your new calling to test this lockdown.

By Jhanvi Dhord

We’ve all heard the saying “An ideal mind is a devil’s workshop,” right? But this lockdown, turned the devil’s ideal workshop, into a productive one. People stuck at home, turned their hobbies into a business. Starting a business from scratch can be difficult, especially during a global pandemic. Whether it is an e-commerce, startup, or a small business run from home. The thought of building your own business can be overwhelming at first, but all you need to do, is take baby steps. Find the courage and motivation that will lead you through your entrepreneurial journey, just like these young adults did. Recently we have come across the word “sustainable fashion” a lot. It is the need of the hour, and is also a very wide concept to grasp. In an attempt to spread awareness about the same, two fashion students, Sanskruti khopade and Mehak Jain, both aged 20 Mumbai-based came up with their very own store Fit Square Thrifts, on 8th August, 2020. An online thrift store that provides 140

you with swapped and thrifted clothes. Ranging from Rs.800 to 2000. They also organise wardrobe clearances and sales to attract more shoppers. “While traveling to college every day in rickshaws, we used to talk about starting our own business. Once we also thought about graphic designing on t-shirts, but later we lost interest,” said Sanskruti. During the lockdown, they thought about how sustainability in fashion is so important, and just decided to go for it. For them it is more than a business, it’s about what they are passionate about. Sunglass enthusiast, Mehak said, “My favourite brand is Christianahjones, its owner started her company, by thrifting her unique pieces of sunglasses, that she picked while traveling around the world, that’s where I got inspired from.” The lockdown has got us craving restaurant-style food. We miss walking into a café or even ordering at home for that matter. Akshita Mehrotra, aged 20 and her mother Shilpi Mehrotra, aged 47 from Moradabad, started their very own Italian kitchen called “Akshita’s Ital

Arabiatta pasta cooked safely at home. A small venture by the mother daughter duo from Moradabad Photography by Akshita Mehrotra

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Thrifting means conscious consumerism to further spread this message people have started appreciating thrifting more One can never have enough Body care products, and especially hand made soaps and scrubs made from natural ingredients. Photography by Jhanvi Dhorda

ian Kitchen.” The mother-daughter duo started this venture after the unlock three. Providing the customers with a range of mouth-watering pizzas and pastas. It is a self-pickup service, with food ranging from Rs150 to 250. “I have always loved cooking for my family. My brother asked for something new to eat every time, that is how I got an opportunity to start my kitchen,” said Akshita. She also shared her experience when she first launched her Italian menu. A girl asked her what lasagne rolls were and after she explained it to her, she placed the order immediately and was very excited to try it for the first time. 142

Getting positive feedback and seeing her customers enjoy the food, gives her the motivation to wake up every day and keep going. “It is the right time to make people happy. The home-cooked food makes them feel nice, and seeing them I feel nice too,” says Akshita. Pressure gives her the thrill to work harder, and even though it gets difficult, she believes that in the end, we all have to find our solutions and challenge ourselves. “With my father’s full support my mom and I work as a team, and we are very happy we decided to start this,” she added. To paraphrase Martha Stewart, “baking and cooking is equal to running an empire” and she started building her mini-empire. Quoting CNBC

news in an article published on 12th May 2020, titled “Analysis of 8 billion page views shows where the next hot start-up can thrive.” "Consumers are getting more comfortable with performing their beauty regimes. Pageviews related to hair and skincare products and DIY home kits have increased by 36 and 1.7% respectively."

waste bath, and body products so I started DIY-ing. After researching and practicing a lot I gained confidence. Since graduation, I didn’t have anything to do, so I thought why not sell what I make,” said Muskan. Even though she had her doubts about her business, she did not feel disheartened. Getting up every day and, making what she loved helped her boost her spirit.

Muskan Jain, aged 20, from Mumbai, who always had a knack for handmade products and DIY projects, decided to launch “Bee Beautiful” on 7th August 2020. A small business, that provides you with the ultimate self - pampering products, like scented body butters, soaps and scrubs.

“I’ve learned one thing from my Pearl professors is to never give up! Even if it’s not working out don’t ever give up! Things will work out and fall in place,” she added. With every order, she got more confident and constantly tried to come with something different. “Making handmade products requires time and effort but doing this is my passion and I’d willingly take in all challenges for it to be a successful

“I could never find any affordable zero

venture,” says Muskan. Without a doubt, 2020 has been a significant year for people, wanting to start or expand their run from home businesses. It has helped a lot of people to get the motivation, and start what they have always wanted to do. With stores being closed, people are looking for alternatives, and places where they can get their services or products. All we need to do, is look outside of the outlet chains and departmental stores, and encourage these small businesses.

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Artist Spotlight : Nicola Kloosterman

A personal project by Dutch collage artist Nicola kloosterman, using vintage ikebena arrangements as a focus on the importance of silence, space, form, humanity, aesthetics and balance. Which strikes a balance between expectation and reality.

Ribbon around a An artist who experienced life so bomb; differently from most of us.

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‘I paint my reality’ By Vaani Pujar

Frida Kahlo, everyone is familiar with the name of the artist as the monobrowed painter, but did you know that her paintings are actual hauntings from her past. The traumatic moment becomes encoded in an abnormal form of memory, which breaks spontaneously into consciousness, which is what reflected in her paintings. Somehow in today’s world, people want to get fully waxed, they hate unibrow, a perfect body with no hair visible but Frida was the opposite. Even now, a lot of girls get inspired by her and talk about body hair openly.

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She loved herself more than anything else, the reason why she used to paint herself. A lot of girls, look up to her even now after 63 years of her death. In her alone time, she became her favourite person. She learned a lot of things through hard ways but she never looked back. The book tells about every detail of the painting and why she made it. She suffered a lot from an early age, as she was diagnosed with polio when she was six and was badly injured in a bus accident when she was eighteen, which affected her for the rest of her life. She was known for her self- portraits and very

‘Frida Kahlo, Self Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird’ Frida Kahlo, Self Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird, 1940

Photography by Vaani Pujar

‘Monkey as her constant companions was not arbitrary. Frida kept monkeys as pets in the garden of the Blue House in Coyoacán. Her monkeys, she said, symbolized the children that she was never able to bear because of the horrific injuries she had suffered in a bus accident in 1925, which led to medical complications, an abortion and several miscarriages.’ Illustration by Vaani Pujar

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unusual still life paintings. The book focuses on her life’s issues, her philosophy, politics, and her marriage life which was a turbulent with Diego Rivera. She painted a portrait of her and her husband Diego Rivera for his 58th birthday, and that painting speaks about how she loved him so much. One of her best artworks which visualises her love for him. Frida’s personality is so melding which creates a fascinating woman. Every painting has a deep story followed by her tragic accidents in life. The artist always comes out when he or she has faced something very uncertain in life, usually, some creativity and paintings which reflects the pain of the artists.

The painting was a tool of expression for her. In still lifes, she used fruits, birds and artefacts native to Mexico to make political statements through her painting, related to Mexican nationalism and independence back in the 1950s. The book is beautifully put together, her illustrations with tragic situations and everything is easy to read about her life, as her paintings are well described. Frida will always be an inspiration to a lot of young people out there, giving them hope in the best way possible. As it’s never too late to have a Frida phase.

‘Evening time with Frida Kahlo’

Susan Sontag

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All photographs are memento mori. To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s (or thing’s) mortality, vulnerability, mutability. Precisely by slicing out this moment and freezing it, all photographs testify to time’s relentless melt.

When the Young photographer

Leva talks

Leva Lasmane An Interview done by Vaani Pujar

Describe yourself, and describe the work you do? I’m still on the path of figuring myself out and art, especially photography is something that allows me to get to know myself better. I work instinctively, often just wandering and exploring, and reflect on the work that I have produced — that allows me to learn things I might have not necessarily known about myself. What work do you most enjoy doing?I prefer projects where boundaries don’t exist and there’s no strict need to stick to the initial idea. Sometimes the production of a project can be stretched out to months and the final product might differ as feelings, outlook on things, character, etc evolve and alter the final outcome. Nature is a strong element in my work however I’ve currently shifted towards more personal approach where I enjoy working closely with the subject with no other distractions or elements. Though even when I’m shooting in a studio I try to keep my practice as sustainable as possible.

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Any favourite photographer? and why is that photographer your favourite? Saul Leiter has been my favourite photographers for the past 5 or so years. I admire his wisdom of life and art. He taught me the importance of finding beauty in everything - as cliché it might sounds... as some things are often looked down upon. His need to produce art was inexplainable and I guess sometimes some things don’t have an explanation. What is your artistic outlook on life? Difficult to explain my ‘’artistic outlook on life’' as I’m not entirely sure what that means. I keep my eyes open on daily basis taking in whatever comes my way, the world is breathtakingly beautiful and there’s immense amount of stimulus we are surrounded by everyday so it is crucial to stay alert. Which book is your favourite and why is it your favourite? I’m currently reading Francis Bacon interviews with David Sylvester which is a great

‘‘The thing that is important to know is that you never know. You’re always sort of feeling your way.’’ Diane Arbus ‘‘The art of our time is noisy with appeals for silence. A coquettish, even cheerful nihilism. One recognises the imperative of silence, but goes on speaking anyway.’’ Sontag, 1982

insight into the way Bacon works and sees the world. I’ve admired his work for years and found him to be one of the most fascinating artists. It’s difficult to choose just one book as specific books work for specific occasions. For time being I might settle for Timeless Simplicity: Creative Living in a Consumer Society by John Lane. It’s quite a light read that focuses on the advantages of living a less cluttered and manic life, importance of slowing down in order to just be more blissful. Photography book wise Raised by Wolves by Jim Goldberg has definitely left the biggest impact on me. Any quote from a book or a movie that you like? “The thing that is important to know is that you never know. You’re always sort of feeling your way.’’ — Diane Arbus ‘‘The art of our time is noisy with appeals for silence. A coquettish, even cheerful nihilism. One recognises the imperative of silence, but goes on speaking anyway.’’ (Sontag, 1982)

Do you edit your pictures, and how do you keep it in such cinematic way? I mostly shoot film which I guess provides the cinematic feel. I barely ever edit my images, if there’s a ‘'look'' I want to accomplish I’ll always try to find a way to do it whilst I am shooting, different film provides different colours, mood, and then there’s always manipulation that can be done with additional elements or scanning, etc. What is your favourite movie, and why do you like that movie? I’ve been into films by Ingmar Bergman recently - I do enjoy slow European cinema where the viewer often is left confused and the boundaries between the reality and imagination are blended.

I didn’t realise how crucial relationships between your family and closest ones play as a child when it comes to structuring your identity as an adult.

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Artist Spotlight : Blanca Madruga

Parts that accompany and let flow.

5 CREATIVE WAYS TO ADD POTTERY IN YOUR HOME DECOR By - Akshita Mehrotra Pottery is an artistic way to give a special touch to your home décor. A classy and beautiful art form, which has a strong, rich tradition in India; pottery and ceramics can boost the style quotient of any home. If you are also a pottery lover and want to make it a part of your home decor, here are some ideas for you. Plants A great way to add colour and design through pottery is by putting plants or flowers in a pot. You can keep the plant at an unusual place in your home. You can also hang multiple colour pots in your garden to make the space look more vibrant and colourful. Coffee table décor Give your coffee table a stylish feel by keeping a clay pot in the centre of the table. You can also use multiple colours to coordinate the vases with your living room furniture for an attractive appeal. Eclectic look To give an eclectic look to your home décor, use a variety of pottery in different shapes, sizes, colours and designs. Balance the feel of your collection by keeping the scale of other furnishings, art and lighting of the room. Play with your style There is no rule for home décor. With your home interiors, you display our own taste and style. Arrange your pottery the way you want. Decorate your shelves with varied pots or clay art pieces for a contemporary look. Fill the gap Pottery is an ideal choice to fill the vacant spaces. Fill the spaces where you are not sure what to keep and decorate. For example, spaces over the cabinets in the kitchen are the best places to keep big and large sized pots. You can also keep small pots in between the shelves to decorate your kitchen in style.

Source: Pinterest

Brooklyn-based photographer Brooke DiDonato poses bodies in twisting forms, skewing the viewerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of where one body ends and the next begins.

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Becoming a material person during the lockdown By Vaani Pujar

The better your technique, the more impossible your standards.

Being alone in nature, is important to some of us, it gives us space to reflect on what we should do. This lockdown made us want to seek, and reach out more to our hobbies, which we stopped, because of our busy schedules. Such experiences become a guide for us which helps us in giving some creative process throughout. Embroidery artwork is telling us, techniques and flows often fall differently, when we embroider details. It is good to take a break, and grab a cup of coffee, and enjoy the sound of rain and sew little bees you like, while sitting in your balcony. As Trish Burr, author of “Needle painting embroidery” said, “Crafters have found certain ways to turn everyday objects into works of art, embroidery exists in some form, in every population across the globe.”

‘A tiny moosh’ Embroidery work by Chen Ling

Embroidery can be displayed on clothing, artworks as well as home goods, it is a timeless craft, which holds a deep meaning in our material culture. Keeping the embroidery pattern in mind, that embellishes the beads, sequins, and pearls at the same time when you intricate an illustration on fabric. Chen Ling, 21- years - old, an art director, working in Chalayan Studios, New Delhi, India, says, “I usually cut around the embroidery and sew the edge so it doesn’t fray, I like adding cute little flowers in between, so I usually make freehand flowers, it’s sometimes super easy for me. It’s good to use little squiggly lines or French knots too.” We all feel that cottage core when we think about embroidering flowers, or even mushrooms, these new hobbies are amazing, especially when you are packed at home, with your laptops in front of you, and you are seeking to do something more than that.

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Some steps for easy Embroidery Select your garment Start with cotton fabric, for a beginner cotton is the best fabric to use first. Collectives

Embroidery kit by Saniya Singh

The history of embroidery varies. Such decorative arts are what people are now really fascinated by. Ling said that he switches between using two threads for outlines and then a single thread for finer details. He further told that, “I used to do this back when I was in school, when I had time, now as lockdown started, I got back to embroidery, and I will not lie, I am not even stopping, I want to do more and more, it’s fun and it makes me happy when I do it.” A fashion designing student, Saniya Singh, studying in NIFT, Delhi, the 22- years- old says, “I’m mostly inspired by the natural world and old botanical illustrations, I make my own patterns just drawing onto the fabric and embroidering makes me feel calm for some reason, it's just a good feeling for me, I experimented little things when I was in class 6th with my old jeans, now it’s more than just a hobby, it gets more exciting day by day.”

Individuals love to display such works, as it is highly collectible, which looks prepossessing in-home interiors. Embroidering is a decoration of art, which might mesmerise you. It is something which won’t end, a small needlework, won’t end with a blink of an eye, a lot of artists come up with a lot of new ideas with embroidery all together. An ancient craft, which has a practical purpose of repairing clothes. As, Jane Johnson, author of The Tenth Gift said, “There are days when I think there really is some huge great tapestry of a plan out there and we're all woven into it - this fabulous, complex pattern of life and death, full of recurring motifs and waves of colour, and we're each one tiny thread in the weave.”

An embroidery needle, a thread, an embroidery hoop, and a sharp HB pencil where you can draw the design you like on the fabric. Choose your design Select the pattern and the design you want to take forward, some flower print will work, as it’s a new start. Choose embroidery thread You can prewash the thread – this ensures that the thread do not bleed afterward. Some bright colours like red, pink even belonging to good brands may bleed and run on your clothing when wet. Embroidery Environment Everyone’s stitching environment is different. Some might have a whole dedicated room for stitching. Others might have a favorite chair and not much more space than that. But one thing that every stitching environment needs to ensure success with embroidery is decent lighting. Good lighting not only improves your stitching, but it preserves your eyes. And you can’t really stitch without eyes!

So, grab your tote bag or cap, and start embroidering your favorite animal or your plants. ‘An Owl’ Embroidery work by Chen Ling

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‘Like khusrao lost his mind upon Nizam and he couldn’t remember the night of separation Like a moth to a flame This is love.’ Art direction and narrative Karan Torani Photography- Nishanth Radhakrishnan Hair and make-up- Bishu Sinha

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Every Coffee lover’s dream TIRAMISU CAKE By - Akshita Mehrotra

This classic Italian dessert is typically made with ladyfingers as the “cake base”. But to be honest, this cake version is so much BETTER! The fluffy and airy sponge cake absorbs all the coffee liqueur, Wmascarpone cream, and cocoa powder all too well. Cake- Tiramisu is typically made with ladyfingers, but this recipe is made with a sponge cake instead. The sponge cake consists of eggs, sugar, vanilla, flour, cornstarch, and baking powder. Tiramisu Cream- The cream is made of cream cheese, mascarpone, powdered sugar, Kahlua, and egg product. Tiramisu Coffee Soak- Each layer of cake is soaked in a combination of espresso, Kahlua, and sugar. Beat the eggs in a stand mixer on high speed for 4 minutes, then add the sugar and vanilla. Continue beating until the eggs are fluffy and pale. Sift the flour, baking powder and cornstarch into the eggs and fold it in with a whisk. Pour the batter into the parchment-lined baking pans and bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 25-30 minutes. Then let the cake cool on a cooling rack. Meanwhile beat the cream cheese, mascarpone, Kahlua, and powdered sugar. Whip the egg product using an electric mixer until it thickens then add it to the cream cheese mixture. Slice the cooled cake layers in half, and soak them in a combination of coffee and sugar. Then assemble the cake in this order; coffee-soaked cake, cream, cocoa powder with all the cake layers. Be sure to reserve some cream to coat the outside of the cake.

Reality Bites By Divya Garg

Covid – 19 has transformed the way we cook and eat. Have we fixed our relationship with food for good?

Until lockdown, all of us (mostly) were accustomed to anytime, any place food shopping. Remember when we could eat in all sorts of places? I ate food everywhere: leaning against a wall with a box of steamed momos from a street food market, sharing popcorn at the cinemas or fries at the pub. Nothing is the same now. With long queues, face masks and the “slow motion trolley dance” we all do, to keep that mandatory distance, the supermarket is no longer that tempting.

But the question is: will these changes stick with us post pandemic? Will we remember the lessons of these strange days, or go back to old habits at the first opportunity? For me, this has been a profound and, I suspect, life – changing experience. But ask me in a year when I hope you’ll find me in a crowd, leaning on a wall, eating steamed momos out of a box.

Snacks can provide a boost of nourishment throughout the day, and comfort food can make you feel good during these trying times. Photography by Divya Garg

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Catharsis|Culture

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“Mostly I’ve been eating out of boredom and stress, there’s nothing else to do”, says Divya Garg.

“I’m definitely comfort eating more desserts, just as a bit of a release, to life the mood”, says Divya Garg. Model - sukriti

Photography and styling by Divya Garg

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Lanvin, dinosaur print short sleeve bowling shirt, Jil sander, Tapered leg pants RAF Simons chino pants Marni, cross over sandals

Art Direction By David Lieske Designed by Eric Wrenn

Close- up : Belize Dress

Me and my clothes: A love story By Divya Garg

The large pile of clothes, in the corner of my room, remains unsorted. They are the things that I can’t live with, and can’t live without. An old dress can set off so many memories, even though you know – you’re never wearing it again. How can you throw out those jeans, in which you don’t even fit now, but aren’t they the golden memories, of days you’d love to live again? It’s pure treasure. In this crisis, all that “I dress for myself ”, and “I don’t care what others think”, has been clearly proved as delusional. It turns out, when people dress for themselves, they hardly bother getting dressed at all. How many of us have attended video calls, with just our top halves showing, and are wearing track pants beneath all day? All these changes are causing a fashion crisis, or, more relevantly; a retail crisis. Fast fashion looks less and less sustainable, with its “must haves” changing every three months.

Illustration By Divya Garg

Clothing is something very personal to us. You may find it online, or you may find it at the bottom of a pile of clothes in your wardrobe. If anything good has come out of this awful time, it is this – a reconnection with our material lives, and a much – needed pause in mindless consumption.

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Pure Fibres, Timeless Style - Handmade with Love

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Arte De Vivre

A BELT Function enables quality of living

RICHARDS Quality delivers function

Belts hold us together. They make sure what doesn’t really fit, stays up. Good belts are functional and make you walk your path without noticing you’re wearing them. Great belts are designed to divide your body between upper and lower, they hold together day and night and finally compliment opposite ends.

It’s always the small but most vital things in life that never receive enough credit. When you think about it, all the essential accessories in life are the ones you use with absolute confidence they’d always been there? A zipper of the pair of trousers you are wearing? Your shoe laces? Your favourite leather belt?

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Limรณn set with patch pockets and a detached belt

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